TEXTILE INTERNSHIP 2024
COMPANY PROFILE
A fashion giant is also creating new age residences. A denim pioneer and forerunner in innovative materials.
The company’s brand portfolio comprises both domestic and international names such as Flying Machine, Arrow, US Polo, Izod,
Elle, Cherokee, and others.
The firm offers denim, woven, knit, voiles, garments, textiles, and high-performance industrial fabrics.
It operates in India, China, the UAE, Mauritius, the United States, Canada, Ethiopia, and Bangladesh, with production sites in
Gujarat, Jharkhand, Karnataka, and Maharashtra. Arvind is based in Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India.
Arvind has 22 global patents for environmental solutions and is the leading fire protection fabric maker in the country
The Company, through its subsidiary, Arvind Lifestyle Brands Limited, markets branded apparel and licenses international brands
in India.
The internship was completed in the shirting section of the
wovens and knits division of the Arvind, Santej manufacturing facility.
SUPPLY CHAIN CHART
RAW MATERIAL STOREROOM
COUNTRY COTTON TYPE
Bunny Brahma Maharashtra baby
India cotton , sourced from Vidharbha
(Maharashtra).
Shankar-6 super , sourced from
Gujrat.
Recycled PCW and PIW cotton
Varieties of organic cotton Imported. Varieties of domestic organic cotton .
Cotton are bought in bales and stored into the store room at shirting section. Moisture content of cotton is 7%.
Collection of yarn ranges from 2/170s to coarse counts.
Yarn realisation , Domestic cotton : 65 % & Imported cotton : 75 %
Input: 11 ton Output: 6-7 tons
SPINNING UNIT
Objective : The primary objective of spinning in the textile industry is to convert raw fibers into yarn.
ANMOL SPINTEX PVT. LTD (FINER COUNT) , ACHAL SPINNING(COARSER COUNT).
BLOWROOM
Clean the fibers of any debris and convert the cleaned and opened fibers into a sheet shape,
known as a lap, that has a defined width and a consistent weight per unit length .
The following blow room’s methods achieve the following:
1. Opening.
2. Cleaning.
3. Mixing or blending.
4. Heavy trash seperation
5. Micro dust removal.
Opening: Bale plucker - blendomat - Fibres are opened from bales with opening rollers which
opens bales into fibre flocks.
Cleaning : Axiflow cleaner -Suction transports cottonto the Axiflow cleaner, while gravity pulls
contaminants to the bottom of the bin. Beaters are installed to remove heavy trash & goes to
waste collection line.
Mixing : Trutzschler -To avoid variation in yarn properties it sorts the cotton fibers while sucking
cotton from the axi flow cleaner and pumping it to Dust removal process.
Heavy trash removal : TRUTZSCHLER ASTA -Goal is to separate heavy waste from cotton.
Micro dust removal : TRUTZSCHLER CVT-4 1600- the suction devices remove 64%. Dust cages and
extractors are used.
OUTPUT : lap
CARDING : MACHINE - TRUTZSCHLER DK70
Fibre Opening , Cleaning , Parallelization , Opening up Staple Fibres , Reduction of fibre clumps.
OUTPUT - Carded sliver
DRAWING :
In order to attain the required linear density during the spinning process, the fibers must be
mixed, straightened, and their number increased in the drawing phase.
Eight slivers are mixed together to produce a single sliver. Additionally, the sketching procedure
makes the sliver more equal or consistent.
The sliver is pulled twice through the draw frame at Arvind Mills. One comes after the pre-
drawing step of carding, while the other comes after the post-drawing stage of combing.
The floor is kept at 33–35% temperature and 51–53% relative humidity
OUPUT : Regular sliver
UNILAP : Machine - Rieter Unilap E 30
Here, a single lap sheet is created by combining 24-26 breaker slivers. One kilogram of lap
weighs one roll.
OUTPUT : Lap.
COMBER : Machine - Rieter E 60
In this operation, fine toothed combs continue straightening the fibers until they are arranged
with such a high degree of parallelism that a short fibers called noils, are combed out and
completely separated from the longer fibers.
OUTPUT : combed sliver
POST DRAWFRAME : Machine - Rieter RSB951
The main objective is to parallelize the fibers , make uniform sliver.
Eight combed slivers are merged again, parallelized, and drawn to enhance the sliver quality. The length/mass ratio is lowered.
OUTPUT : Uniform sliver/drawn sliver.
SPEED FRAME : Machine - Lakshmi LF1400A
The purpose is to reduce the silver to a suitable size for spinning.
Attenuation : Drafting the roving draw frame sliver.
Twisting : To include the twist into the wandering.
Winding : Wind the bobbin’s twisted roving.
OUTPUT: Roving.
No. of spindles in one machine : 72-144
RING FRAME : Machine - Lakshmi LR60/AXL
To Draft the material to the required linear density (Count), Twisting (High twist, to make strong
yarn)
Rollers of different speed are set which makes the fibers finer at each stage.It provides further
compression and twist to the fibers along with drafting. The draft is needed to reduce the linear
density of sliver. The packages are further formed into bobbins.
These are wound on smaller spindles.
The traveller gives the yarn certain twist.
OUTPUT : Yarn.
RANDOM WINDING : Machine - Autoconer
The main purpose of winding machines that they were using is to transfer the ring yarn obtained from ring spinning into a cone form.
Random winding prepares bigger packages after removing faults.
Bobbins are manipulated through apertures and checked for frayed ends. The ones with the free ends are carried on and fastened to the loose
ends within the cone to continue the winding operation.
After that, they are simply spliced together to eliminate knotting and improve weaving efficiency.
OUTPUT: Cleared Yarn
ASSEMBLY WINDING :
Assembly winding mixes the yarns to improve the strength (2/3/4 plies into single thread).
Assemble winding is a method where multiple cheeses of yarn are combined or assembled into a larger package, often called a "cone."
OUTPUT: Assembled yarn
TFO :
Twisting two or more single yarns is known as doubling, folding, or ply twisting, and it is accomplished with T.F.O. twisters.
There are several benefits to employing TFO twisters :
The creation of lengthy, knot-free yarns that improve performance in the ensuing procedures.
Increased output
OUPUT: Doubled yarn
SINGEING :
Objective : The purpose of singeing yarn is to burn off projecting fibers and produce clean yarn surface.
The strands are designed to withstand flames while maintaining other requirements like a constant temperature and pressure.
The fuel utilized is CNG, and the product is singed yarn.
Testing of yarn
WEAVING PREPARATORY
Objective : To prepare the weft and warp threads ready for weaving into a cloth. A crucial step in ensuring the effective and superior
manufacture of woven textiles is weaving preparation.
SOFT WINDING : MACHINE : SSM (MADE IN INDIA)
The main objective of soft winding is preparing the yarn package for the subsequent yarn dyeing process by controlling the density of the
package. A traversing motion is giving to the yarn while winding which impart lower density of package.
It is rinsed with water as it gets equal water content,then are loaded on carriers and dropped into the vessels for dyeing.
Yarn dyeing (Package dyeing) :
Pretreatment :
Scouring : It is the process of cleaning fibers and removing sediment prior to dyeing.
Chemicals used : Alkali-caustic/ soda ash & others
Bleaching :Bleaching is a process that removes unwanted color from yarn, fabric, or fibers to make them whiter.
Chemicals used : Hydrogen peroxide , Stabilizer for peroxide Acid for neutralization
Dyeing- Reactive (Used for cotton)
Chemicals used : Color , Salt (for exhaustion) , Soda ash (for fixation), Leveling agent
Dyeing- Disperse(Used for polyesters)
Procedure :
Bleaching : Room temperature chemicals are added, then heated to 50 C. and transferred to the dyeing chamber. H2O2 is added at 95 C.
Washing : Hot water treated to 95 degrees Celsius for ten minutes eliminates H2O2 and alkali. It is rinsed in cold water.
Dyeing : The carriers are immersed into the dye bath chemicals like : salt,alkali,acid,fixtures and softners are added to control hardness.
Then it is processed in HTHP(High Temperature High Pressure).
After that the yarns are rinsed with cold water to get rid of the excess dye.
The yarn is transmitted to a computer for shade matching once it has dried.
Hydroextractor & dryer :
The wet material is placed in the extractor, which has a wall of perforated metal, generally stainless steel.
DRYING : The package is placed in the RF(Radiofrequency) machine to dry.
700 packages are dryed in a temperature of 90-100 C.
Rewinding : Machine - Muratec Machconer no 7 VSS , Muratec Machconer no 7
Due to inconsistent tension soft winded cones cannot work on loom.
Yarn is converted from small ring bobbins to bigger yarn cones of different sizes or as per requirement
There are two types of winding: weft winding and warp winding.
Warping :
It is the process of winding warp ends in a parallel manner from several winding packages (cones) onto a single package (warp beam).A
weaver beam is a warp beam that is fixed onto a weaving machine. A weaver’s beam has thousands of ends in it.
Types of warping : Sectional warping
Direct warping
Sectional warping involves two parts: warping
Creels beaming
Tension devices
Section beams: Machine : Vamatex VM 810
Warping drum: The modular design of sectional warping machines allows for easy
adjustment of the number of sections, making them suitable for a wider range of yarn types
and weave patterns.
Sizing:
Sizing involves impregnating the yarn with certain compounds that create a coating on the surface of the yarn.
The yarn sheet is coated with an adhesive based on starch to enhance its weavability.
Chemicals used : Starch binder
maze binder
acrylic binder
A instrument called referctometer is used to check the viscosity of the composition.
Time taken- 1 beam - 60 - 75 min
Speed of sizing : 0.5 m /min
1 machine = 1m takes 3 min so, in one day 300 - 350 m is
sized.
Drawing in, or reeding : Machine : Staubli delta 110
It is the process of threading the warp yarns one at a time through the gaps between the pits in the reed. Drawing or denting is the
technique of threading warp threads through reed dents and healed eyes in a pattern that is desired.
It is done both manually and by help of machines .
WEAVING
The interlacing of warp and weft is called weaving.The weaving procedure starts after the warp beams are ready.
There are a total of 48 weaving machines in the weaving shed in Textile park of Arvind mills.
The shirting division has an annual capacity of 34 million meters , 17k in one shift.
The weaving shed is kept in the following conditions: 32 to 35 degrees Celsius , 75% humidity
Two types of weaving looms are used in Arvind : Air jet loom , Rapier loom
Air jet looms : Machine : Toyota JAT 810
The machine features an air tank with a fixed pressure of seven bars.
On air-jet looms, light weight and fine count yarns are often woven.
Rapier weaving loom :
Two rapiers do the weft insertion in this. By this one pick is inserted followed by beating by the reed.
Fibers other than cotton like polyester, nylon are generally woven in this loom. Any type of weave like critical dobby can be formed.
Primary motion :
The fundamental process that allows the yarns to interlace rhythmically in the loom is the main motion.
Shedding
Picking
Beating
Typically, dobby systems can manage up to 6–32 heald shafts.
It makes use of computers that supplies the required lifting strategy.
Electronic Components:
Computer System: A computer system is used to control the dobby's operation. It stores the pattern information and sends signals to the
electronic control module.
Electronic Control Module: This module receives signals from the computer system and translates them into electrical signals that control
the movement of the mechanical components.
Solenoids or Stepper Motors: These devices are used to actuate the shafts or levers that control the heddles. They are controlled by the
electronic control module.
By using this approach, the chance of miss-lifts due to broken pegs and ripped pattern sheets is eliminated.
There is no need to create duplicate patterns because a disc may be taken out of the dobby after the design has been committed to memory
and utilized on many looms.
Secondary motion :
Let-off: By maintaining tension on the warp yarn, the sheet is regulated.
Take-up: The cloth is taken up from the fall and placed in front of the loom for storage.
Tertiary motion :
Weft stop motion: Should the weft break or run out, these actions instantly halt the loom.
Warp stop motion: Should the warp break, these actions instantly halt the loom.
Warp protector motion: These motions protect the warp in the event of shuttle trap which may be due to over picking. The mechanism will
prevent mass breakage.
POST WEAVING :
Grey fabric inspection
Grey inspection, often called greige inspection
Grey inspection is used to find and fix any woven fabric faults, flaws, or abnormalities before the fabric moves on to the next stage of
production.
Grey fabric inspection employed
GREY FABRIC INSPECTION 4 point system
Holes and opening Points
grade A: <3 defects /100 m
1 inch or less 2
grade B 3-6 defects/100 m
Over 1 inch 4
grade C >6 defects/100 m
Acceptable tolerance :
Tolerance that is acceptable: 28 points per 100 square yards for every roll.
On average, 20 points per 100 square yards of rolls examined.
If four or more spots are found within 100 meters of fabric, the information is submitted to the department and sent to the weaving area
and then to be repaired.
The cloth is sent to the storage room after being checked for the first time.
The fabric is further sent to the automatic folding and packaging machine (PLM machine) for the final process.
Best achieved target in the shirting division : 97.28%
General inspection procedure includes :
Shade variance
Selvage to selvage measurements
Mending :
A variety of repair procedures are used throughout the mending process, depending on the kind and severity of the damage.
In order to restore the integrity of the fabric, these processes might involve knotting broken yarns, sewing or stitching to cover holes,
replacing damaged areas with fresh fabric, or using other techniques.
Following repair, the fabric goes through another examination to make sure the flaws have been successfully fixed and that it now satisfies
the necessary quality requirements.
Mending Techniques:
Sewing , Patching , Invisible Mending
Batching :
Fabric is mended , then batched by sewing it end to end. The batching supervisor receives specification sheets, wherein it states the number
of meters of what material should be wrapped up, all in one package.
Singeing : Machine OSTHOFF SEN GE BZ/3
Singeing is done by moving gray objects at a pace of 100–250 yards per minute across gas flames, often two burners apart.
Components :
Two burner
Temperature- 1000 ° C Speed: 1m/s
CNG used for burning
Flames perpendicular to the fabric
Pressure gauge in the machine controls the pressure
1 shift (8 hours) – 30,000m of fabric is singed.
Desizing :
In textile wet processing, the sizing substance on the warp yarns can function as a resist for chemicals and dyes.
It is done in the same machine as singeing.
Desizing chemical, enzyme and wetting agent is being used.
Procedure :
First the fabric is desized and washed.
Batching :This wet fabric is wound on batch rollers.
This rollers are rotated for 8 hours so that the enzyme can react with the size present on the fabric
Bleaching : Machine -BENINGER (GERMANY)
Application of Bleaching Agent: The cloth is submerged in a bath that contains the selected bleaching agent. Sodium hypochlorite
(NaClO) and hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) are common bleaching chemicals.
Chemical interaction: The bleaching agent’s chemical interaction with the cloth’s inherent colorants and impurities is facilitated by the
circumstances placed on the fabric.
Rinsing: The cloth is carefully rinsed to get rid of any surplus bleaching chemical and any broken-down contaminants once the required
level of bleaching is reached.
Neutralization: To restore the fabric’s pH equilibrium and eliminate any residual bleaching agent, a neutralization phase may be
required, depending on the type of bleaching agent employed.
Mercerization :
The material’s handling and luster are changed, and the fibers become stronger and more dye-affine as a result of the swelling.
Mercerisers come in three sections: impregnation, stabilization, and washing off.
Impregnation .This is the process of treating yarn or fabric made of cotton or linen with intense caustic alkali.
Stabilization . Then the fabric is mercerized using caustic soda and acid to provide lusture.
Washing
Cold mercerisation : Machine - Kyoto , Benninger (Germany)
Warp and weft are dimensionally stabilized by cold mercerization. Low gpl caustic (50 to 80 gpl) is used to wash the fabric using hot
water and followed by a cold water wash.
The machine’s speed is kept between 30 and 50 m/min.
Treatment with liquid ammonia is a very efficient and carefully managed method an alternative to caustic soda mercerization.
Efficiency: Liquid ammonia is a highly effective agent for improving the properties of cotton fabric. It can provide similar benefits to
caustic soda mercerization, such as increased luster, strength, and dye affinity.
Safety: Liquid ammonia is generally considered safer to handle than caustic soda.
Cold mercerization is generally preferred over normal mercerization (also known as hot mercerization) for several reasons:
Reduced Shrinkage
Improved Luster
Enhanced Strength
Energy Efficiency
Sanforization : Machine - iV Monfortex
It is a technique for reducing the shrinkage that would normally happen after washing by stretching, shrinking, and fixing the woven
cloth in both length and breadth before cutting and manufacturing.
Sanforization is a mechanical process that doesn't use chemicals to control fabric shrinkage.
Instead, it uses a rubber unit to compress the fabric, which forces the yarns closer together and makes the fabric thicker and heavier.
This process improves the fabric's dimensional stability.
The steps of the sanforization process are:
Moistening: Lubricates the fibers to promote shrinkability
Compressing: Squeezes the fabric between a pressure roll and a rubber belt cylinder
Drying: Removes moisture to lock in the shrunken state
Post mercerization :
Squeezing and Rinsing
Stabilization (Neutralization)
Drying
Quality Inspection
PRINTING
Deisgn studio :
Design is made
Photoshop
Six colour ways of the same design is made.
Sent to marketing dept.
Type of printing :
Reactive dye printing
Pigment printing
Reactive dye printing :
Reactive dye combined with steam(102 degrees) to permanently print into fibres of a fabric.
Presence of urea,alkali,TiO gives reactive print on cotton.
Resistant salt, sodium bicarbinate, and sodium alginate powder are added to 60°C water while stirring.
For eight to twelve hours, the paste is stored.
The next steps involve adding urea, defoamer, and ultimately dissolved reactive colors.
After that, the cloth is dried at 120 degrees Celsius and fastened using steam.
Pigment dye printing :
Screen pigment priting has the advantage of having its colors intect even after repeated wash off.
Process :
Preparation of color paste
Printing
Fixation
The last step, known as “after-treatment,” is washing and drying the fabric.
Types of sampling :
Baby sampling : This procedure is mostly used to print smaller-scale and lower-quantity
samples that are utilized to verify client acceptance.
Yardage : Bulk production
Rotary screen printing : Machine -Ichinose RSX 70
When printing rotary, the cloth moves between the screen and an imprint roller made of
rubber or steel that is situated just below the screen at a constant pace.
The screen rotates at a speed that is precisely equal to the substrate’s movement as the
cloth moves through the rotary unit.
Drying the printed fabric: The cloth is run through a drying device with heat of 25C for 10 - 15 min or air circulation to set the ink into
the fibers of the fabric after each color application.
Screen Adjustment :
Screen up/down and front/back may be adjusted via a control panel.
Every screen has a series of magnet bars underneath it that draw the magnetic squeegee in.
The control panel may also be used to regulate magnetic pressure.
Curing:
To ensure colorfastness, durability, and wash resistance, the printed cloth is heated to cement the ink onto it
Heat press machine or a conveyor belt drier
The cloth is cooled down after curing in order to handle it further.
FINISHING
Microsanding :
The feel of soft, luxurious hands
Matte Visual Appeal
Decreased Pills
Calendering finish :
Typically, one roll is made of metal, and the other is wrapped with cloth or paper.
To obtain the necessary shine, moisture can be applied as steam or water.
Resins needed to ensure that calendaring on cellulosic textiles is durable. The effect only lasts for one laundry without the resin.
Stentering finish :
Tensioning: The fabric is stretched and held under tension to control its width and length.
Drying: The fabric is passed through a heated chamber, where hot air or steam is used to remove moisture.
Setting: The fabric is then cooled while still under tension, setting its dimensions and preventing shrinkage.
Packaging :
Rolls, pallets, are common packaging methods used to store, transport, and handle large quantities of materials. Each method has its
own advantages and is suitable for different types of goods.
The rolls are covered by HDPE plastic (High Density Polyethene) which has a single layer.
Packaging is done with the help of wraping amchine.
CERTIFICATIONS
ISO 50001 - Energy management system
ISO 9001 - Quality management system
Iso 14001 - Environmental system
Certifications for PCW and PIW cotton:
GRS - Global recycled standard
RCS - Recycle claim standard
GOTS - Global organic textile standard
OCS - Organic content standard