Cosmeceuticals - Cosmeceuticals are accurate.

Unfortunately, many creams

cosmetic products with biologically active do not live up to their advertised hype.
ingredients purporting to have medical or
drug-like benefits.
The FD&C Act does not recognize any such
category as “cosmeceuticals”. A product
can be a drug , a cosmetic, or a combination
of both, but the term “cosmeceutical” has no HOW DOES THE LAW DEFINE A
meaning under the law. COSMETICS?

The term "cosmeceutical" was introduced by - The “Food, Drug, and Cosmetic
dermatologist Dr Albert Kligman in 1984 Act” (RA 3720) defines cosmetics by
and is derived from a combination of the its intended use, as "articles intended
words cosmetic and pharmaceutical. to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or
sprayed on, introduced into, or
Cosmeceuticals are products that have both otherwise applied to the human
cosmetic and therapeutic (medical or drug- body...for cleansing, beautifying,
like) effects, and are intended to have a promoting attractiveness, or altering
beneficial effect on skin health and beauty the appearance"
Like cosmetics, they are applied topically as
creams or lotions but contain active HOW CAN A PRODUCT BE BOTH A COSMETIC
ingredients that have an effect on skin cell AND A DRUG?
function. In some cases, their action is -Some products meet the definitions of both
limited to the skin surface (such as cosmetics and drugs. This may happen when
exfoliants), while others can penetrate to a product has two intended uses. For
deeper levels, either enhancing or limiting example, a shampoo is a cosmetic because
normal skin functions. Cosmeceuticals are its intended use is to cleanse the hair. An
available "over-the-counter" (without antidandruff treatment is a drug because its
prescription) and are generally used as part intended use is to treat dandruff.
of a regular skin care regime to help improve Consequently, an antidandruff shampoo is
skin tone and texture, pigmentation and fine both a cosmetic and a drug. Among, other
lines. cosmetic/drug combinations are toothpastes
that contain fluoride, deodorants that are
also antiperspirants, and moisturizers and
DO COSMECEUTICALS REALLY WORK? makeup marketed with sun. protection
claims. Such products must comply with the
- Ideally cosmeceuticals should be
requirements for both. cosmetics and drugs.
clinically tested to ensure they have a
proven benefit and can substantiate
their claims. however, the
cosmeceutical industry is largely DIFFERENCE BETWEEN “ COSMETICS” and
unregulated. Unlike medicines, “COSMECEUTICALS”
cosmeceuticals are not subject to  Cosmeceuticals typically contain levels
review by the Food and Drug of active ingredients including
Administration (FDA) in the United phytochemicals, vitamins etc... Like
States or the Therapeutic Goods cosmetics, cosmeceuticals are
Administration (TGA) in Australia. topically applied, but contain
Although they are usually tested for ingredients that influence the
safety, they do not have to undergo biological function of the skin.
testing to ensure the claims they make
regarding efficacy (effectiveness) are  Cosmeceutical products are intended
to improve appearance from a
 functional standpoint whereas  petrolatum
Cosmetics are used JUST to color and
COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCT INGREDIENTS
adorn the body in a stylish fashion,
leaving the real problem unaddressed.  Common ingredients in anti-wrinkle
creams
WHAT ARE SOME COMMON INGREDIENTS
IN COSMECEUTICALS?  Retinol....
 Sunscreens  Vitamin C. Another potent antioxidant,
vitamin C may help protect skin from
 titanium dioxide - protect skin from
sun damage....
the sun's ultraviolet (UV) rays.
 Hydroxy acids....
 zinc oxide - protects the skin from
the sun's rays by reflecting and  Coenzyme Q10....
scattering UV radiation. It's a physical
UV filter that forms a barrier on the  Peptides....
skin's surface.  Tea extracts....
 Antioxidants prevents cell damage  Grape seed extract. ...
 Vitamin C Alpha-lipoic acid  Niacinamide
 Nicotinamide
 Vitamin E COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCT
 Hydroxy acids (improve skin texture INGREDIENTS
and reduce the skin signs of ageing) GLUTATHIONE (SKIN WHITENING &
 Skin lightening agents (Ascorbic acid, ANTIOXIDANT)
Kojic acid)
 Peptides and proteins - improve the
appearance of skin and hair. They are
used in many skin care and hair care
products, including anti-aging
products.
 Vitamins
 Fruit/Herb/Vegetable Extracts
MOLECULAR STRUCTURE AND FUNCTION
 Essential Oils OF GLUTATHIONE
 Minerals Glutathione (gamma-
glutamylcysteinylglycine) is a small, low-
molecular weight, water- soluble thiol-
 Beeswax and candelilla wax tripeptide formed by three amino acids
(glutamate, cysteine and glycine). It is a
Various oils and fats – moisturizer,
ubiquitous compound with a biologically
lubricant, emollient and cleanser
active sulfhydryl group contributed by the
 olive oil cysteine moiety that acts as the active
part of the molecule. This sulfhydryl
 mineral oil group allows for interaction with a variety
 cocoa butter of biochemical systems, hence the
abbreviation "GSH" for its active form.
 lanolin Glutathione is one of the most active
 antioxidant systems in human physiology. These help to dissolve the intracellular
It also functions as a skin lightening. "glue" that holds dead cells together
on the skin. The use of this type of
product on a daily basis gradually
GLUTATHIONE or GSH enhances the exfoliation of the
FULL NAME - gamma- epidermis. This exposes newer skin
glutamylcysteinylglycine cells and can help improve
appearance. AHAs may irritate some
skin, causing redness and flaking.
- Peptides, such as Matrixial and copper
peptides.
- Coenzyme Q10
BOTULINUM TOXIN
GLUTATHIONE AND HUMAN PIGMENTATION
 Botulinum toxin, also known as Botox,
 Melanin in human skin is a is used in cosmetics to reduce the
polymer of various indole compounds appearance of wrinkles and other
synthesized from L-tyrosine by the signs of aging. It's the most popular
Raper-Mason pathway of cosmetic procedure in the world.
melanogenesis with tyrosinase being
the rate limiting enzyme. The ratio of  Botulinum toxin works by blocking the
the two different types of melanin release of acetylcholine, a
found in skin, black-brown colored neurotransmitter responsible for
eumelanin and yellow-red muscle contraction, at the
pheomelanin, determines the skin neuromuscular junction, effectively
color. An increased proportion of causing temporary muscle paralysis
pheomelanin is associated with lighter and relaxation by inhibiting nerve
skin color. signals that trigger muscle movement

 Glutathione may affect skin CATEGORY

pigmentation by reducing the activity
of tyrosinase, an enzyme that's
involved in melanin production
TOPICAL PHARMACOLOGICAL AGENTS WITH
ANTI- AGING PROPERTIES
 Anti-aging creams may include
conventional moisturizing ingredients.
They also usually contain specific anti-
aging ingredients, such as:
WHAT INGREDIENTS ARE PROHIBITED OR
- Retinol (for instance, in the form of RESTRICTED BY FDA REGULATIONS?
retinyl palmitate). In various
formulations it has been shown to  Bithionol : photocontact sensitization
reduce fine lines and pores. Epidermal  Chlorofluorocarbon propellants : toxic
growth factor, to stimulate cell to human health
renewal and collagen production in the
skin, and strengthen elasticity and  Chloroform: cancer
structure.
 Halogenated salicylanilides : skin
- Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta disorders
hydroxy acids or other chemical peels.
  Hexachlorophene : * Breathing
Hexachlorophene can irritate the nose
and throat causing coughing and
wheezing. * Exposure can
cause headache, loss of appetite,
nausea, vomiting, abdominal cramps
and diarrhea. * Exposure can cause
dizziness, weakness, convulsions (fits),
mood changes, coma and death.
 Mercury compounds : allergic Cellulites - Cellulite is an aesthetically
reactions, skin irritation, or neurotoxic distressing skin condition that manifests as
problems. dimples and depressions, producing an
uneven surface to the skin. Occurring in 80%
to 90% of females, mostly on the thighs,
buttocks, and hips, it is associated with
profound negative psychosocial and quality
PHOTOCONTACT DERMATITIS of life issues.

THE ADVANTAGES OF COSMECEUTICALS

 Address the root causes
 Safe for long-term use
 Complementary role
 Promote beauty through health and
wellness of skin
 Cosmeceutical with natural ingredients
are preferred
THE FUTURE PERSPECTIVE AND
APPLICATIONS
 Improving skin complexion
 Preventing visible effects of ageing
 Controlling/reducing wrinkles
 Freckle & Black Spots control
 Acne & pimple scars
 Controlling sebum
 Reducing cellulite