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 EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

SAN FRANCISCO
& NORTHERN CALIFORNIA

RESTAURANTS • MUSEUMS
SHOPS • NIGHTLIFE
WINERIES • WALKS
FESTIVALS • HOTELS • MAPS
NATIONAL PARKS • BARS • ART
THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT
OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU
 EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

SAN
FRANCISCO
& NORTHERN CALIFORNIA
 EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

SAN
FRANCISCO
& NORTHERN CALIFORNIA
 CONTENTS
HOW TO USE THIS
GUIDE 6

Produced by Pardoe Blacker Publishing Limited (UK)

PROJECT EDITOR Linda Williams
ART EDITOR Kelvin Barratt
EDITORS Jo Bourne, Irena Hoare, Esther Labi, Molly Lodge
DESIGNERS Jon Eland, Nick Raven, Steve Rowling
PICTURE RESEARCH Jill DeCet, Lindsay Kefauvre
CONSULTANT Don George
MAIN CONTRIBUTORS Jamie Jensen, Barry Parr
CONTRIBUTORS Dawn Douglas, Shirley Streshinsky

PHOTOGRAPHERS
Neil Lukas, Andrew McKinney
ILLUSTRATORS
Arcana Studios, Dean Entwhistle, Nick Lipscombe
Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore
Early cartoon of gold
Printed and bound by L. Rex Printing Company Limited, China
prospector (1848)
First American Edition, 1994
10 11 12 13 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Published in the United States by DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street,
INTRODUCING
New York, New York 10014 SAN FRANCISCO
Reprinted with revisions 1997 (twice), 1999, 2000, 2001,
2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2008, 2009, 2010 FOUR GREAT DAYS IN
Copyright © 1994, 2010 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London SAN FRANCISCO 10
WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF
THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN OR INTRODUCED INTO A
RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED, IN ANY FORM, OR BY ANY MEANS PUTTING SAN
(ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR OTHERWISE),
WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT OWNER AND
FRANCISCO ON THE
THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK. MAP 12
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited.
A CATALOGING IN PUBLICATION RECORD IS AVAILABLE FROM THE SAN FRANCISCO’S
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.
EARTHQUAKES 18
ISSN 1542-1554
ISBN 978-0-75666-153-3
THE HISTORY OF
Front cover main image: Golden Gate Bridge and skyline,
view from Marin Headlands
SAN FRANCISCO 20
We’re trying to be cleaner and greener:
SAN FRANCISCO


 


 
  
 AT A GLANCE 34





  
 


 
  




 

  

SAN FRANCISCO


 
 


 


 
 

THROUGH
  

 


 
 THE YEAR 48
Find out more about our values and
best practices at www.dk.com

The information in this

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as
possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as
telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging
arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The
publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising
from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites,
and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a
suitable source of travel information. We value the views and
suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to:
Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides,
Ghirardelli Square,
Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain.
Fisherman’s Wharf

Golden Gate Bridge in fog

 SAN FRANCISCO
AREA BY AREA
THE 49-MILE SCENIC
DRIVE 54

PRESIDIO 56
A view of Mendocino in Northern California
PACIFIC HEIGHTS
AND THE MARINA 68
A TWO-DAY TOUR TO SURVIVAL GUIDE
FISHERMAN’S WHARF MENDOCINO 188
AND NORTH BEACH 78 PRACTICAL
THE NAPA WINE INFORMATION 278
CHINATOWN AND COUNTRY 190
NOB HILL 94 GETTING TO
LAKE TAHOE 196 SAN FRANCISCO 288
FINANCIAL DISTRICT
AND UNION SQUARE 106 YOSEMITE NATIONAL
PARK 200
CIVIC CENTER 122
TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
HAIGHT ASHBURY
AND THE MISSION 130 WHERE TO STAY 206
A Dungeness crab

RESTAURANTS AND
CAFÉS 222 GETTING AROUND
SAN FRANCISCO 292
SHOPPING IN
SAN FRANCISCO 244 SAN FRANCISCO
STREET FINDER 302
ENTERTAINMENT IN
SAN FRANCISCO 258 GENERAL INDEX 322

CHILDREN’S ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
SAN FRANCISCO 274 334
Palace of Fine Arts, Presidio

GOLDEN GATE PARK

AND LAND’S END 142

FARTHER AFIELD 158

FIVE GUIDED WALKS

170

NORTHERN
CALIFORNIA
EXPLORING NORTHERN
CALIFORNIA 184

A TWO-DAY TOUR TO
CARMEL 186 Haas-Lilienthal House,
Pacific Heights
6 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

T his Eyewitness Travel

Guide helps you get the
most from your stay in
San Francisco with the mini-
mum of difficulty. The opening
covers the important city sights,
with photographs, maps and
illustrations. The Northern
California section features rec-
ommended places of interest in
section, Intr oducing San the region plus two suggested
Francisco, locates the city geo- excursions. Tips for restaurants,
graphically, sets modern San Planning the day’s shopping, hotels, entertainment,
Francisco in its historical context itinerary in sports and children’s activities are
and describes events through the San Francisco found in the section on Travelers’
entire year. San Francisco at a Needs. The final section, Survival
Glance is an overview of the city’s main Guide, contains practical advice on
attractions. Section two, San Francisco everything from personal security to
Area by Area, starts on page 52. This using public transportation.

FINDING YOUR WAY AROUND THE SIGHTSEEING SECTION

Each of the eight sightseeing areas in the Street map illustrating the heart of the area.
city is color-coded for easy reference. Every Finding your way around each chapter is
chapter opens with an introduction to the made simple by the numbering system used
part of San Francisco it covers, describing its throughout. The most important sights are
history and character, followed by a Street-by- covered in detail on two or more full pages.
 
     


 


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The area shaded pink of the sights ties in with the area the places that
is shown in greater detail map and the fuller descriptions no visitor
on the Street-by-Street map on the pages that follow. should miss.
on the following pages.
 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E 7

SAN FRANCISCO AREA MAP           
 
            
 
     
 
  
  

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hours, telephone numbers, admission Photography and works on paper

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charges and facilities available is Special exhibitions Main Emergency

entrance staircase  Lesende (Reading)
Non-exhibition space

given for each sight. The key to the

symbols used can be found on the San Francisco’s
back flap. 4
Museums and galleries have
major sights Stars indicate
the features
color-coded floor plans to no visitor
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help you find important
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 INTRODUCING
SAN FRANCISCO

FOUR GREAT DAYS IN SAN FRANCISCO 1011

PUTTING SAN FRANCISCO ON THE MAP 1217
SAN FRANCISCO’S EARTHQUAKES 1819
THE HISTORY OF SAN FRANCISCO 2033
SAN FRANCISCO AT A GLANCE 3447
SAN FRANCISCO THROUGH THE YEAR 4851
10 I N T R O D U C I N G S A N F R A N C I S C O

FOUR GREAT DAYS IN

SAN FRANCISCO
S et on steep, wooded hills
and almost surrounded
by a vast bay, this jewel
of a city is, above all, photogenic.
Equip yourself with a camera,
or pick and choose from
these self-guided tours to
see the city from four
different points of view.
Important sights have page
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a map and good walking "TJBO
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shoes, and set off to discover for more details. The price
its historic sights, cultural treasures, guides include cost of travel, food
and vibrant neighborhoods. Follow, and admission charges.
Rooftop playground and
360-degree city views. Watch
skaters in the ice skating
rink or toss a few balls in
the bowling center. Drop
teenagers off at Zeum for
performing arts activities,
while little ones can spin
on the 1906 Charles Looff
carousel. Grab a take-out at
one of the outdoor cafés and
Rodin’s Thinker at the Legion of Honor relax in the gardens.

one of the largest museums Afternoon

ART, OLD AND NEW in the world devoted to Walk to the Embarcadero
Asian art. Relax over tea in Center (see p110) and along
t
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its café. Cross the plaza to the waterfront, or take a
Legion of Honor the Beaux Arts-style, gilt streetcar to Fisherman’s Wharf
t
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rotunda of the $JUZ
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(see p128) admiring as you 200 antique arcade games at
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t
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p126) and the War Memorial (see p82), a sprawling seaside
580
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Enjoy shopping in upscale and entertainments. There’s a
Morning fashion boutiques and Venetian carousel, sharks in
Start the day with 4,000 years bookshops around Hayes Underwater World and video
of ancient and European art Valley and end the day with games at Riptide Arcade; not
at the Legion of Honor in an aperitif at the Absinthe forgetting the sea lions on K
Lincoln Park (see pp156–7). Brasserie and Bar (see p235). Dock. End up at Hyde Street
From the wooded setting, Pier – board a schooner then
enjoy the bay views, then pop into the Maritime
take the Muni streetcar to the +645
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Latino Mission District (see
p131) to see flamboyant t
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Afternoon
Take a Muni to Mario Botta- Morning
designed, modernist 4'.0." Start with pancakes and
(see pp118–21) to commune jukebox tunes at .FMT
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with Warhol, Picasso, and *O (see p243). Walk a half
more modern masters. Walk block to :FSCB
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 F O U R G R E A T D AY S I N S A N F R A N C I S C O 11

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the science and technology lined, sky-high terraces.

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the Palace of Fine Arts (see the waterfront to hobnob
t
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t
Chocolate galore fashioned soda fountain, and 1ZSBNJE (see p111) on the
t
Cable car ride to Nob Hill a chocolate factory. At the skyline. Walk to Levi’s Plaza
cable car turnaround, hop (see p93), a grassy area with
580
"%6-54 allow at least $100 onto a cable car and ride to a backdrop of vintage houses
the top of Nob Hill (see p101). on Telegraph Hill, topped by
Morning After a wander here, amble $PJU
5PXFS (see p93). For
Start with breakfast at the down to the bustling streets lunch, try a burger or ribs
Beach Chalet (1000 Great of $IJOBUPXO (see pp94–100). with a sea view in 1930s-
Highway), Ocean Beach (see style, chrome and neon Fog
p153). View the Depression- $JUZ
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era murals, then set off into ALONG THE
Golden Gate Park (see WATERFRONT Afternoon
pp144–5), past gardens, lakes, Jump onto a vintage streetcar,
meadows, and playing fields t
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to the $POTFSWBUPSZ
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with exotic flora. Stroll in the a visit to Alcatraz sightseeing trip around the
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p147), rent a bike or a row 580
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boat, or visit the Botanical notorious prison island
Garden 4USZCJOH
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(see p152). Just outside the Start your expedition with a guided tour. Back at the
park, have a fresh sushi coffee at $BGGÒ
3PNB
** (see wharf, look into the Wax
lunch at Japanese restaurant p242), then head to AT&T .VTFVN (see p82). Finally,
&CJTV (see p237). Park (see p272), home of the amble to Fort Mason (see
San Francisco Giants. Stroll pp74–5) to watch the sun
Afternoon around the perimeter of the set over the harbor.
Take Muni to the Golden ball park for fabulous views.
Gate Bridge (see pp64–7) for Proceed to the tall 'FSSZ

a windy walk across and #VJMEJOH (see p112), where
back. Walk under the bridge in the glass-enclosed
to pre-Civil War-era Fort marketplace you can buy
Point (see p62) and follow artisan cheeses, rare teas,
the bayfront trail to $SJTTZ
pastries, and locally grown
Field (see p62), to watch boats produce. Across the street,
and windsurfers. Have a hot Embarcadero Center (see
drink here at the Warming p110) is a six-block, high-
Hut Café. The young at heart rise complex of shops and 'PH
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12 I N T R O D U C I N G S A N F R A N C I S C O

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San Francisco is, after New York, the second most

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14 I N T R O D U C I N G S A N F R A N C I S C O

The Bay Area  

To the east, the cities of Oakland and Berkeley are

reached via Bay Bridge, while to the north, Golden San
Gate Bridge links the peninsula to Marin County. Pablo
These areas, together with the suburbs to the south,  Bay
make up the Bay Area, which is served by Bay Area
Rapid Transit (BART) lines and freeways.
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16 I N T R O D U C I N G S A N F R A N C I S C O

Central San Francisco

San Francisco is a compact city, and much of the
central area can be explored on foot. The many hills
mean some strenuous climbing and are useful
landmarks for orientation. A rich ethnic mix adds
character to the distinct neighborhoods.

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 P U T T I N G S A N F R A N C I S C O O N T H E M A P 17

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18 I N T R O D U C I N G S A N F R A N C I S C O

San Francisco’s Earthquakes

San Francisco lies on the San Andreas
Fault and is under constant threat of
earthquakes. The Loma Prieta earthquake
of October 17, 1989, named after the
hill close to its epicenter in the Santa
Cruz Mountains, was the worst to hit the
area since 1906 (see pp28–9). Many
buildings are now being strengthened
to withstand tremors, and shelters like
the one at the Moscone Center (see
pp114–15) are stocked as emergency The 1989 earthquake measured 7.1 on the Richter
relief sites. In addition, most hotels scale. It caused some of the houses that were built
have their own evacuation proce- on landfill in the Marina District to shift off their
dures, and the local telephone foundations.
directory has four pages of advice. Berkeley

The San Andreas Fault is a

major fracture in the
Earth’s crust. It extends
almost the full length of
California, some
600 miles (965 km).

San Francisco
lies near the
northern end
of the fault.

PACIFIC PLATE MEETS

NORTH AMERICAN PLATE
The San Andreas Fault is the
result of friction where two
major plates of the Earth’s
crust meet – the eastern
Pacific and the North
American plates.

San North American

Andreas plate
Fault

L (long) waves Epicenter (point on the surface above

travel across the the focus of an earthquake)
surface. Hypocenter (the focus of an
earthquake)
S (secondary)
waves travel P waves S waves L waves
through solid
parts of the
crust.
P (primary) waves
travel through the
Earth’s core.
Pacific plate Hypocenter
A seismograph printout shows the intensity
Earthquake energy vibrations travel like waves of earthquake vibrations graphically. Inside
through the Earth’s crust. The interval between the the seismograph a pen traces P (primary), S
arrival of the P and S waves tells scientists how far (secondary) and L (long) waves on a
away the epicenter of the earthquake is. rotating drum.
 S A N F R A N C I S C O ’ S E A R T H Q U A K E S 19

Scientists monitor the

movement of the San Andreas
Fault by bouncing laser beams
off a network of reflectors. The
system can pick up movements
of less than 0.025 inch (0.6 mm)
over a distance of 4 miles
(6 km), enabling seismologists
to predict when earthquakes
are likely to occur.

The hills and coastal ranges of

the Bay Area are pressure ridges
formed by hundreds of fault
movements compressing and
uplifting the land.

Hayward In Oakland, 42 people were killed in 1989

Fault when an elevated highway section
collapsed and 44 slabs of concrete, each
weighing 661 tons, fell onto the cars.

A vibroseis truck
produces artificial S
(secondary) waves
that probe the
underlying rock
structure to
measure
movement.

Calaveras
Fault

TIMELINE
1769 Members of 1865 City suffers its 1872 Earthquake demolishes 1989 Loma Prieta
Portolá’s expedition first major earth- town of Lone Pine and Sierra earthquake strikes city
are first Europeans quake on October 9, Nevadas rise 13 ft (4 m) and Bay Area, killing
to experience an followed by second 67 and making 1,800
earthquake in quake on October 23 1890 Pronounced homeless. Worst
California earth tremor quake since 1906

1750 1800 1850 1900 1950

1957 Strong tremor in 1977 8 earth
1857 Strong earth tremor Bay Area tremors occur
followed by smaller
tremors in Bay Area 1906 Strongest earthquake ever; 3-day fire
Don 1906 destroys much of city leaving 3,000 dead
Gaspar 1868 Strong tremor inearthquake and 250,000 homeless. 52 small tremors
de Portolá Hayward Fault damage shake region over following two days
 I N T R O D U C I N G S A N F R A N C I S C O 21

THE HISTORY OF
SAN FRANCISCO

E ven by the standards of

the New World, San
Francisco remained
terra incognita a surpris-
ingly long time. A few
the world, leading to the Gold
Rush of 1849 (the prospectors
of this time were known as
’49ers). This coincided with
the United States’ takeover
early European explorers, of the West Coast and, by
including Portuguese-born 1869, San Francisco had
João Cabrilho and England’s grown into an international
Sir Francis Drake, sailed up city renowned both for its wild
and down the length of the “Barbary Coast,” stretching
Seal of the city and county
California coast in the 16th of San Francisco
west from the waterfront, and
century, but all of them for the fortunes that were
sailed past the Golden Gate witho u t made speculating on the newfound
noticing the bay that lay beyond it. It riches of the American frontier.
was not until 1769 that the first nonna-
tives laid eyes on what is now San EARTHQUAKE AND RECOVERY
Francisco; thereafter the area was colo- As the population increased, the city
nized swiftly by the Spanish, who grew westward to fill the narrow
established both missions and presidios peninsula: cable cars were invented
(forts). In 1821, when Mexico declared to conquer the steep hills, and
independence from Spain, it became blocks of ornate Victorian houses
Mexican territory. were built. The great earthquake
and fire of 1906 destroyed most of
THE GROWING CITY the city but not its spirit, and
The first significant boost to growth reconstruction was soon underway.
occurred in 1848, when gold was Throughout all of this, San Francisco
discovered at Sutter’s Mill in the Sierra retained its unique character and
Nevada foothills near Sacramento. seemingly limitless energy. The
Hundreds of thousands of prospectors following pages illustrate significant
were attracted to California from all over periods in the city’s history.

Telegraph Hill and North Beach at the time of the Gold Rush

An 1873 print of the city looking south, with Market Street running from the center of the waterfront
22 I N T R O D U C I N G S A N F R A N C I S C O

Early San Francisco

The first inhabitants of the area around San Francisco
Bay were American Indians, grouped into
two main tribes, the Coast Miwok in the
north and the Ohlone in the south. By
the mid-1500s, European ships were
exploring the California coast, but
no contact was made with the
Indians until Sir Francis Drake
Miwok seed beater anchored off Point Reyes and EXTENT OF THE CITY
claimed it for Queen Elizabeth I. Today 1800
The bay remained undiscovered until 1769, and in 1776 Land reclaimed since 1800
Spain established a small presidio (fort) and a mission,
named in honor of the founder of the Franciscan order,
San Francisco de Asis. Missionaries from Spain tried to
convert the Indians to
Christianity, forcing them to
live in barracks and to do
Tcholovoni forced labor.
Indians
Various tribes,
including these Girdles were
Tcholovoni Indians, decorated with
hunted and settled in feathers and
small villages on the shells.
shores of San
Francisco Bay.

Drake Lands at Point Reyes (1579)

It is thought that Sir Francis Drake
landed at what is now called Drake’s
Bay; he was greeted by Miwok Indians.

TIMELINE
10,000 BC First AD 1542 Portuguese-born 1602 Sebastian Vizcaino visits
Indians migrate explorer João Cabrilho sights Point Reyes, but also fails to find
to the Bay area the Farallon Islands off the the bay. His glowing reports
coast of San Francisco encourage the later expedition that
discovers San Francisco Bay

10,000 BC AD 1550 1600 1650

1579 Sir Francis Drake

lands near Point Reyes
for ship repairs
João Cabrilho 1595 Spanish trading ship San 1666 map showing
(died 1543) Augustin sinks off Point Reyes California as an
island
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F S A N F R A N C I S C O 23

Kule Loklo WHERE TO SEE EARLY

Indians SAN FRANCISCO
These early Bay Area
Early American Indian
inhabitants were tools are at the California
depicted by Academy of Sciences
Anton (pp150–51), while
Refregier in Mission Dolores (p137)
his mural in and Oakland Museum
the foyer of (pp166–7) have Mission-
the Rincon Center era artifacts.
Annex (see p113).

The Missions
Under the direction of Father
Narciso Duran, the mission
of San Jose was the largest
and most
prosperous in
the Bay Area.

Male dancers
painted their
bodies with red,
A spear was an important dance black and white
accessory. pigments.

17th-century icon of Saint

Peter, carved in Mexico and
carried to California, is now
in Oakland Museum (p166).

DANCE AT MISSION
DOLORES
The Russian artist Ludovic
Choris (1795–1828) drew this
picture of Indians dancing
outside Mission Dolores in
1816. They decorated their
bodies, performing for the
missionaries every Sunday.

1701 Father Kino crosses 1776 Juan De Anza 1816 Russian traders
the Colorado River proving leads the first party of arrive on the ship
that Baja California is a settlers overland to San Rurik and are
peninsula, not an island Francisco, arriving on disturbed by the
March 28 high mortality rate of
Portolá’s 1769 expedition American Indians
1700 1750 1800

1769 Don Gaspar de Portolá, leading a 1797 Mission

party of explorers overland, discovers San Jose
the bay in November 1769 founded

1775 Spanish ship San Carlos,

captained by Lt Juan Manuel de Ayala, Indians
is the first to enter San Francisco Bay gambling
24 I N T R O D U C I N G S A N F R A N C I S C O

The Gold Rush

Having broken away from Spain in
1821, Mexico opened California to
foreign trade for the first time.
Whaling vessels and traders
anchored in San Francisco Bay,
and a small village began to
grow. In 1848, with the discovery
of gold in the Sierra Nevada foothills,
Gold nuggets
and the US annexation of California, EXTENT OF THE CITY
everything changed. In two years,
Today 1853
100,000 prospectors passed through the
Golden Gate, turning San Francisco
into a wild frontier city. Vallejo’s Goblet
This elegant goblet
reveals the gracious
way of life of General
Vallejo, the last Mexican
governor of California.
Sam Brannan set up the
city’s first newspaper
in 1847.
Firemen
pulling
firefighting
rig
San Francisco Captured from Mexico
On July 9, 1846 the USS
Portsmouth took control of the
undefended bay, and 70 US
sailors and marines marched
ashore, raising the Stars and
Stripes in the central plaza.

Gambling
Fortunes and lives were won
or lost on the turn of a card;
gambling was a way of life.

TIMELINE

1820 1823 Mission San 1828 Fur trapper Jedediah 1834 Missions close,
Whaling ships use Francisco de Solano Smith arrives at Presidio and their assets are
Sausalito as main founded at Sonoma after making the first divided among
base of operations crossing of the rugged Mexican landowners
coastal mountains

1820 1830
1835 William
1822 The Mexican Revolution Richardson
ends Spanish rule over founds Yerba
California Buena, later
renamed San
Richardson’s hand-drawn map of Francisco
Yerba Buena (San Francisco) in 1835
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F S A N F R A N C I S C O 25

WHERE TO SEE GOLD

RUSH SAN FRANCISCO
Little remains of the Gold Rush
city, but you can get a feel for
this era at the Wells Fargo History
Museum (see p110), the Bank of
California’s Museum of Money in
the American West (p112), or the
Scales used by Wells Fargo Oakland Museum (see pp166–7).

Ragged Gold Miner

A weary prospector
endures the long trek
to the gold fields; many
Burlesque theater returned empty-handed.
was a popular
entertainment in Wells Fargo administrators
the growing city.
Tall ships brought
gold seekers from all
over the world.

News of Gold Reaches New York

Confirmed by President Polk on
December 5, 1848, the gold find
inspired thousands
to head west.

Panning for Gold

In 1849, more than
90,000 “Forty-Niners”
passed through San
Francisco. They faced
long, hard hours panning
for gold in the streams of
the Sacramento Valley
and Sierra Nevadas.

MONTGOMERY STREET IN 1852

This street was the business center. Here Wells
Fargo, whose stagecoaches brought goods to
the miners and carried back gold, built the
city’s first brick building.

1836 Juan Batista Alvarado 1846 Bear Flag Revolt is led 1851 Clipper
marches on Monterey and de- by explorer John Fremont Flying Cloud
clares California a and settlers in May. US takes 89 days to
“free sovereign troops occupy state capital reach San
state” within the (Monterey) on July 7 and Francisco from
Mexican republic take Yerba Buena on July 9 New York
1840 1850
1847 Village of Yerba Buena 1850 California
is officially renamed San admitted to
Francisco. City now United States
comprises 200 buildings
John with 800 inhabitants 1848 Gold discovered by John
Fremont Marshall in Sierra Nevada foothills,
1813–90 starting the Gold Rush of 1849
 26 I N T R O D U C I N G S A N F R A N C I S C O

The Victorian Years

The city’s real boom years occurred
during the second half of the 19th
century, when some San Franciscans
made huge fortunes from the silver
mines of Nevada’s Comstock Lode,
and from the transcontinental
railroad, completed in 1869.
Saloons and brothels abounded
along the waterfront in the EXTENT OF THE CITY
Transcontinental train
legendary Barbary Coast district, Today 1870
while the wealthy built palaces at
the top of Nob Hill. As the city expanded, its streets
Bathroom with original
were lined by ornate Victorian houses, and by the bathtub and tiles
turn of the century, the population topped
300,000, making it the largest city
west of Chicago.

The dining room was

used for family meals
and formal dinners.

Silver Urn
Presented to Sen-
ator Edward Baker
in 1860, this urn
celebrated future San
Francisco business
projects, particularly
the transcontinental
railroad.

Supper room
Barbary Coast Saloon in basement
Gambling and prostitution were rife in The second parlor The front
the Barbary Coast, and drunken men was a private sitting parlor was used only
were often pressed into naval service. room for the family. for entertaining.

TIMELINE
1856 Increasing lawlessness:
vigilantes hang four men 1862 First telegraph 1869 Transcontinental railroad 1873 Levi Strauss
connection between completed, making fortunes for patents process for
New York and San the infamous “Big Four” making riveted
Francisco (see p102) jeans (see p135)

1850 1860 1870

Emperor 1854 Local eccentric, 1863 Ground is 1873 First San Francisco cable
Norton Joshua Norton, broken in car is tested on Clay Street
(died proclaims himself Sacramento for the
1880) Emperor of the United Central Pacific
States and Protector of Railroad; thousands
Mexico, issuing his of Chinese are hired
own currency to build it
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F S A N F R A N C I S C O 27

Union Pacific
Railroad WHERE TO SEE THE
In 1869, the Union VICTORIAN CITY
Pacific met the San Well-preserved Victorian
Francisco-based Cen- buildings can be seen all
tral Pacific in Utah at over San Francisco, but
Promontory Point to only Haas-Lilienthal
form the first trans- House (see p72) and
continental railroad. Octagon House (p75) are
open to the public on a
HAAS-LILIENTHAL HOUSE regular basis. Jackson
Wholesale grocer William Haas built this Square Historical District
(p110) is the best place to
elaborate Queen Anne style house in see what remains of the
1886, one of many in the Victorian-era Barbary Coast.
suburbs. Today it is a museum
and shows how a well-to-do Gothic Revival birdcage from
the 19th century at Oakland
family would have lived at Museum (pp166–7)
the turn of the century.

Sutro Baths
These public
baths, which
stood until the
1960s, were
built by philan-
thropist and
one-time mayor
Adolph Sutro in
1896.

The sitting Comstock Lode Silver

room was Between 1859 and the mid-
originally 1880s, $400 million
the master was extracted
bedroom.
from the
mines.
Porch

Hall, with
Victorian
corner sofa

1896 Adolph Sutro opens the

1886 10,000 trade unionists world’s largest public baths
take part in the biggest north of Cliff House
labor parade to date in
San Francisco 1901 Power broker Abe
Ruef runs San Francisco

1880 1900
1899 Frank Norris
1887 Scottish gardener writes the classic
John McLaren is hired to novel, McTeague: A 1900
tend Golden Gate Park. Story of San Francisco Fisherman’s
He stays for 50 years Wharf is built
(see p146) Adolph Sutro
1830–98
28 I N T R O D U C I N G S A N F R A N C I S C O

The 1906 Earthquake and Fire

The massive earthquake that hit San Francisco
just after 5am on April 18, 1906 caused one of
the worst disasters in US history. The tremor,
many times more powerful than any other
to hit the city before or since, instantly
collapsed hundreds of buildings, and sub-
sequent fires engulfed the city center. More
than 6 sq miles (15 sq km) were reduced to
rubble, and estimated death tolls ranged EXTENT OF THE CITY
from an official 700 to a more
Today 1906
credible 3,000, while as many as
250,000 people were made homeless.
Since most property owners were Powell Street cable cars were
insured against damage by fire, the back in service within two years.
city was able to rebuild quickly, and The rest of the system, much re-
by the end of the decade business duced, was operational by 1915.
City Hall after the had returned to normal.
earthquake

The House of Mirth

In the summer of 1906 more than
100,000 residents had to make
their homes in refugee camps.

The Ferry Building was

saved from destruction Chinatown
by fireboats spraying burned completely
water from the bay. to the ground.

Spirit of San Francisco

Cartoonists were quick to see the funny
side of their changed lives; scarcity of
water provoked some ironic comment.

TIMELINE
Fairmont Hotel
1905 Architect Daniel
Burnham submits 1909 Jack London
radical plans to 1907 Fairmont Hotel re- writes Martin Eden,
improve the city center opens exactly one year a thinly veiled
after the earthquake autobiography

1905 1906 1907 1908 1909

1906 Earthquake, measur- Jack
ing 8.25 on the Richter London
scale, and 3-day fire, 1907 Abe “Boss” 1876–1916
reduce the city to rubble; Ruef pleads guilty
tremors continue for 2 days to extortion
Burnham Plan
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F S A N F R A N C I S C O 29

Feeding the Homeless

in Union Square WHERE TO SEE THE
The US Army took 1906 EARTHQUAKE
responsibility for Artifacts and exhibits
providing food pertaining to the 1906
and shelter for disaster are found all over
the thousands of the city. Information on
victims who lost the quake can be viewed
in the foyer of the Shera-
members of their ton Palace Hotel and at
family, their homes www.sfmuseum.org.
and possessions.

South of Market The Fairmont The Flood Mansion’s stone

District, built on Hotel burned, but frame survived the quake; it
unstable soil, was rebuilt inside can be seen today as the
was one of the the original façade. Pacific-Union Club.
hardest-hit areas
in the earthquake.

Cups and saucers fused by the

heat of the fire are among
artifacts on display at the
Oakland Museum (pp166–7).

THE DESTRUCTION
Traveling at 7,000 mph
(11,265 km), the earthquake
overwhelmed the city center.
Flames erupted from burst
gas mains and, in 3 days,
destroyed 28,000 buildings:
prime city property valued
at $400 million.

Nob Hill’s wooden mansions

The Homeless burned like kindling.
Many people salvaged what
they could and moved
away for good. Clearing Up
As soon as the flames
had abated, buildings
were torn down and
cleared for restoration.

1913 Last horse-drawn

Mayor “Sunny streetcar withdrawn
Jim” Rolph from service
1869–1948 Plans for San
Francisco, the 1914 Stockton Street
Exposition City tunnel opens

1910 1911 1912 1913 1914

1913 Congress
1911 “Sunny controversially approves
Jim” Rolph is 1912 San Francisco dam that floods the
elected named as official site of Hetch Hetchy Valley,
mayor; serves 1915 Panama–Pacific 150 miles (240 km) east
until 1930 Exposition of the city
30 I N T R O D U C I N G S A N F R A N C I S C O

The Golden Age

Neither World War I in Europe nor
the beginning of Prohibition in the
US could dampen the city’s renewed
energy after 1906. The 1920s saw the
creation of major museums, theaters
and other civic buildings. Even the
Great Depression was not as painful as
it was elsewhere in the US – many of
the city’s monuments, including Coit EXTENT OF THE CITY
Poster publicizing
the Pan–Pacific
Tower and both bay bridges, were Today 1920
Exposition built during these years. World War II
brought industrial investment in the
form of shipyards at Richmond and Sausalito. Fort Tower of Jewels, decorated
with 102,000 cut-glass “gems”
Mason was the main supply base for the Pacific theater,
and shipped out more than 1.5 million soldiers.
Palace of Fine Arts, the only
building still standing today

PANAMA–PACIFIC Fountain of Energy by A.

EXPOSITION OF 1915 Stirling Calder, depicting
victorious youth
To celebrate the city’s revival after 1906
and to mark the completion of the Palace of Horticulture
Panama Canal, San Francisco hosted with plants from all
over the world
the magical Exposition,
which attracted 20
million visitors over
10 months (see p72).

Land of Plenty King Oliver’s Creole Band

California’s farm- Catching the mood of the
land became the 1920s, King Oliver’s jazz
most productive in band became the hottest
the US in the 1920s. combo of the decade.

TIMELINE
Pan–Pacific 1921 de Young 1929 Stock
commemorative medal Museum opens exchange crash
1917 Crissy precipitates
1924 California depression
Field Airfield Palace of the Legion
at Presidio of Honor opens
opens
1915 1920 1925 1930
1917 Main Public Library 1920 1924 First air 1927 Mills Field airfield,
opens at Civic Center Prohibition mail flight now the site
begins lands at Crissy of San Francisco
1915 Pan–Pacific Field International Airport,
Exposition runs from 1923 opens
February 20 to President Warren G. Harding
December 4 dies at the Palace Hotel
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F S A N F R A N C I S C O 31

WHERE TO SEE THE

GOLDEN YEARS
The only survivor of the
1915 Exposition is the land-
mark Palace of Fine Arts
Pan American Clippers (see pp60–61). The Old US
Arrive Mint (p117)
San Francisco Bay was and the History
Room of the
the starting point for Main Library
flights across the Pacific. (p125) both
have extensive
Defying Prohibition displays of
Although Prohibition was objects from
not stringently enforced in this era.
the city, drinkers still had to Ticket for
be discreet. Treasure Island
World’s Fair

Festival Hall, the

musical center of
the Exposition,
seated 3,500.

McLaren’s Hedge, a
wall of grass

Sausalito
Shipyard
Longshoreman’s Strike Workers at this
On “Bloody Thursday,” July 5, 1934, shipyard completed
police opened fire on dockers striking one ship a day during
for better conditions, killing two. the World War II period.

Hetch 1939 World War II in 1942 Japanese-

Hetchy Europe. Opening of World’s 1941 American
Dam Fair on Treasure Island Japan internment 1945 End of
attacks US begins World War
1937 Golden Gate at Pearl II
Bridge opens Harbor

1935 1940 1945

1933 Prohibition 1936 Bay Bridge opens. 1945 UN Peace
ends Pan American Clippers Conference held
arrive in the city at San Francisco
1934 Hetch Hetchy Dam April 25–
project completed. Signing of the United June 25 to
Three-day general strike Nations Charter in found the
in sympathy with dockers the city in 1945 United Nations
 32 I N T R O D U C I N G S A N F R A N C I S C O

Postwar San Francisco

Since World War II, San Francisco has seen both good times and
bad. Site of the founding of the United Nations in 1945, the
city was home to the Beats of the 1950s and the scene of “Love-
ins” and “Be-ins” in the Flower Power 1960s. At the same time,
the Bay Area was the scene of angry antiwar and civil rights
demonstrations. One of the wealthiest
parts of the US, the area was hit
hard by AIDS, homelessness and a
devastating earthquake in 1989.
1970s Leader of the Oakland-
1969 American Indian Movement based Black Panthers, Huey
occupies Alcatraz to publicize Newton (on the right) gains
Indian grievances widespread sympathy on college
campuses during the turbulent
’60s and ’70s
1969 San Francisco blues and
soul star Janis Joplin develops 1978 Mayor George Moscone
alcoholism and drug problems. is assassinated at City Hall by
She dies in 1970 from a heroin a former policeman Dan
overdose White, who also
kills popular
gay politi-
cian Har-
vey Milk

Neal Cassady 1950s Jack Kerouac, Neal Cassady, Allen

and Jack Ginsberg and others strike chords of dis-
Kerouac satisfaction and creativity to initiate the
“Beat” movement and the “politics of dis-
sent” and free love George Moscone

1945 1950 1955 1960 1965 1970 1975 1980

1945 1950 1955 1960 1965 1970 1975 1980

1965 Ground is 1973

August 15, 1945 1954 The broken for the Transamerica
Riotous celebra- new San Dragon Gateway Pyramid is
tions break out Francisco on Grant Avenue completed
across San Fran- International and given
cisco at the end Airport opens mixed
of World War II. at former reviews by
Thousands of Mills Field San Francisco
troops return to airfield critics
the US through 1978 Apple
the Golden Gate Computer,
which grows
into one of
1958 The New York the Bay Area’s
Giants baseball team largest busi-
moves to San Francisco, nesses,
bringing major league designs and
professional sport to the produces its
West Coast first personal
computer

1967 First Be-in attracts

25,000 hippies and
others to Golden
Gate Park for a day of
music. The Monterey
Pop Festival features
such talents as Jimi
1951 Six years after the fighting stopped
Hendrix, Otis Redding
between the US and Japan, the treaty ending and The Who
the war was signed in the San Francisco War San Francisco
Memorial Opera House Giant Willie
Mays
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F S A N F R A N C I S C O 33

1992 Fires blaze across Oakland

hills killing 26 people and
burning 3,000 houses

1995 Candlestick Park

renamed 3Com Park
2007 Residents experience an
earthquake measuring 4.2 on the
Richter scale
2000 Opening game
played at new Pacific
Bell Park (now AT&T
Park)

1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020

1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020

2008 The Contemporary

Jewish Museum, designed
1994 Presidio by Daniel Libeskind, opens
Army Base
turned over to
the National
Park Service 2006 San Francisco con-
gresswoman Nancy Pelosi
is the first woman to
become elected speaker of
the United States House of
Representatives

1989 Major earthquake hits San Francisco

during World Series baseball game
between Bay Area rivals: freeways col-
lapse, killing dozens

1999 After 15 years as the speaker of the

California Assembly, Democrat Willie Brown
is sworn in as San Francisco’s first black mayor
 I N T R O D U C I N G S A N F R A N C I S C O 35

SAN FRANCISCO AT A GLANCE

M ore than 200 places of interest The following 12 pages are a time-
are described in the Area saving guide to the best San Francisco
by Area section of this book. has to offer visitors. Museums and
They range from the bustling
alleys, shops and restaurants
architecture each have a section,
and there is a guide to the
of Chinatown to the verdant diverse cultures that have given
expanses of Golden Gate Park, the city its unique character.
and from ornate Victorian houses Below are the top attractions
to soaring city center skyscrapers. that no tourist should miss.
SAN FRANCISCO’S TOP TOURIST ATTRACTIONS

California Academy of Sciences Coit Tower Ghirardelli Square

See pp148–51 See p93 See p83

Golden Gate Park

See pp142–53

Golden Gate Bridge Grant Avenue

See pp64–7 See p99

Cable Cars
See pp104–5

Union Square Alcatraz Island Japan Center

See p116 See pp84–7 See p128

Celebrating on a motorized cable car tour (see p279)

36 I N T R O D U C I N G S A N F R A N C I S C O

San Francisco’s Best: Museums and Galleries

Museums and galleries in the city range from
the Legion of Honor and the de Young
Museum to the contemporary art of the
Museum of Modern Art and the Yerba Buena
Center for the Arts. There are several
excellent science museums, including the
Exploratorium and the California Academy of
Sciences. Other museums celebrate San
Francisco’s heritage and the people and
events that made the city what it is today.
More details on the area’s museums and
galleries are given on pages 38 and 39.

The Exploratorium
Visitors experiment with Sun
Painting, a feast of light and color
at this leading US science museum.

Presidio
Legion of Honor
Sailboat on the Seine (c.1874) by
Monet is part of a collection of
European art from medieval
times to the 19th century.

de Young
Museum
This landmark
art museum Golden Gate Park
and Land’s End
showcases
collections of
art from the 0 kilometers 2
Haight
Americas, Ashbury and
0 miles 1
Africa, and the the Mission
Pacific, as well as
an astounding
collection of textiles,
photography,
sculptures, crafts,
and modern and
contemporary art.

California Academy of Sciences

Re-opened in 2008 after an extensive
re-build, the California Academy of
Sciences is integrated more sensitively
into the natural environment of
Golden Gate Park.
 S A N F R A N C I S C O A T A G L A N C E 37

Chinese Historical
Society
This magnificent dragon’s
head belongs to the Society
which administers one of
the city’s smallest
museums. Within is a
unique collection that tells
the story of California’s
Chinese communities.

Fort Mason Museums

Muto by Mimo Paladino
(1985) is in one of the
ethnic culture museums.
Wells Fargo History Museum
This bronze stagecoach (1984) is by M. Casper.
The small gallery in which this is situated
illustrates the colorful history of California,
Fisherman’s
Wharf and
from the early days of the Gold Rush.
North Beach

Chinatown
and Nob Hill
Pacific
Heights and
the Marina
Financial
District and
Union Square

Civic Center

San Francisco Museum of Modern Art

Back View by Philip Guston (1977) can be
found in this highly regarded museum. In
1995 the museum moved to premises,
designed by architect Mario Botta.

Yerba Buena
Center for
the Arts
This gallery at
Yerba Buena
Gardens displays
contemporary
art in rotating
Asian Art Museum exhibits: there is
This museum is located in no permanent
the Civic Center, a lovely collection.
1917 Beaux Arts building.
38 I N T R O D U C I N G S A N F R A N C I S C O

Exploring San Francisco’s Museums and Galleries

San Francisco boasts a number of established
and respectable collections of paintings, DESIGN
sculpture, photography, artifacts and design.
In addition, high-profile projects, such as Many of the larger, more
the building of a new home for the prestigious museums in the
San Francisco area have
Museum of Modern Art, and the renovation worthwhile holdings of design
of the California Palace of the Legion of and applied art. Major collec-
Clay pot by Honor, assure that the city will retain its tions of architectural models
Clayton Bailey, identity as the US West Coast’s center of art and drawings are held at the
Craft and Folk
Art Museum
and culture. Other Bay Area treasures are Museum of Modern Art.
the many science and technology museums. You can see Mission-style
and turn-of-the-century Arts
and Crafts pieces at the
20th-century painting Oakland Museum.
and sculpture. The There is also a small, but
SFMOMA holds works interesting, collection of late
by Picasso and Matisse 18th-century artifacts and
as well as an extensive furniture on display inside
holding of drawings the Octagon House, itself a
and paintings by fine, and unique, example of
Paul Klee. Abstract Victorian architectural house
Expressionists, partic- design (see pp76–7).
ularly Mark Rothko The California Historical
and Clyfford Still, Society (see p113) has an
and California artists eclectic collection of fine and
represented by Sam decorative arts as well as the
Francis and Richard largest single public collection
Diebenkorn, are also of 19th century California
included in this prints and photography.
notable collection.
Another vibrant
showcase for contem- PHOTOGRAPHY AND
Saint John the Baptist Preaching (c.1660) porary artists, the PRINTS
by Mattia Preti at the Legion of Honor Yerba Buena Center
for the Arts is well Photography is a field in
worth a visit. The same is true which San Francisco’s
PAINTING AND SCULPTURE of the commercial John museums excel, with world-
Berggruen Gallery, with its class examples of most periods
Two renowned art museums, wide variety of works on and styles. The Museum of
the Legion of Honor and the display by both emerging Modern Art’s collection
de Young Museum are artists and more mature, well- ranges from the earliest form
impressive showcases for a established artists. of daguerreotypes to classic
comprehensive collection of Outside the city limits, the images by modern masters
European and American Stanford University Museum such as Helen Levitt, Robert
painting and sculpture. The of Art has excellent Rodin Frank and Richard Avedon.
Legion of Honor focuses on sculptures, while both the Oakland Museum displays
French art of the late 19th UC Berkeley Art Museum and rolling exhibitions by Bay
and early 20th centuries, with the Oakland Museum have Area-based photographers
works by Renoir, Monet and valuable art collections. such as Ansel Adams and
Degas as well as more than Imogen Cunningham
70 sculptures by Rodin. The and holds documentary
famous collection of graphic collections including
works owned by the an impressive array of
Achenback Foundation is photographs by iconic
also on display here. American photogra-
The Asian Art Museum phers such as Dorothea
is located in its permanent Lange. The commercial
home at the Old Main Library. Vision and Fraenkel
It has Far Eastern paintings, galleries are both
sculpture, artifacts and fine excellent, while for
jade figurines. prints, the Achenbach
The most dynamic of the Foundation for Graph-
art museums in San Francisco ic Arts in the Legion of
is the Museum of Modern Fletcher Benton’s ‘M’ sculpture outside the Honor has more than
Art, with its vast array of Oakland Museum 100,000 works.
 S A N F R A N C I S C O A T A G L A N C E 39

be seen at the African

NATURAL HISTORY American Historical and
Cultural Society and the San
An extensive natural Francisco Craft and Folk Art
history collection is Museum; Italian-American
displayed at the works of the 20th century
California Academy of are displayed at the Museo
Sciences (see p113). ItaloAmericano.
This features such
After the Earthquake (1906) photograph, exhibitions as the
Mission Dolores museum evolution of species, LIBRARIES
plate tectonics (with a
vibrating platform that sim- San Francisco has extensive
HISTORY AND LOCAL ulates an earthquake), and general libraries including
INTEREST gems and minerals. There is the Main Library, which has
also a large planetarium, and a special research collection
No single museum is devoted a Fish Roundabout, where comprising hundreds of books
to the city’s entire history, visitors cross a ramp and thousands of photographs
although several collections surrounded by a focusing on city history.
cover different aspects of San tank of sharks and The area’s two main
Francisco’s past. A small other sea life. The universities, UC
museum at Mission Dolores Oakland Museum Berkeley and
gives insight into the city’s has an entire floor Stanford, have
founding and early period. devoted to the extensive collec-
The Wells Fargo History varied eco-systems Octopus in the Oakland tions including
Museum has a display on the of California, which Museum historical holdings.
Gold Rush, the small museum are reconstructed
at the Presidio Visitor Center through a series WHERE TO FIND THE
traces the area’s military of realistic dioramas.
COLLECTIONS
history, and the California
Historical Society offers fertile
ground for researchers and ART FROM OTHER Asian Art Museum p126
history buffs. CULTURES Map 4 F5.
Well worth a visit are the California Academy of
Chinese Historical Society Art and artifacts from Sciences pp148–51
Museum and the African- California’s native cultures are Map 4 F5.
American Historical and on display in the Hearst
California Historical Society p113
Cultural Society Museum at Museum of Anthropology at
Fort Mason, which document UC Berkeley. Exhibitions are Chinese Historical Society
the respective histories of the drawn from the museum’s Museum p100
Chinese and African-American collection. The Albers de Young Museum p147
communities in San Francisco. Gallery of Inuit Art on Market Map 8 F2.
Street also stages shows by
Exploratorium pp60–61
Inuit artists.
SCIENCE AND Fort Mason has a wealth Fort Mason pp74–5
TECHNOLOGY of art from other cultures: Fraenkel Gallery
ethnic and American art can 49 Geary St. Map 5 C5.
One of the preeminent John Berggruen Gallery
hands-on technological 228 Grant Avenue. Map 5 C4.
museums in the world, the
Legion of Honor pp156–7
Exploratorium has hundreds
of interactive displays that Map 4 F5.
explore the science behind Mission Dolores p137
everyday events. This is one of Museum of Modern Art pp118–21
San Francisco’s most popular Oakland Museum pp166–7
museums, and it is especially
Octagon House p75
fascinating for children.
Across the bay, the Lawrence Presidio Visitor Center p62
Hall of Science at UC Berkeley Stanford University p169
plays an equally important Tech Museum of Innovation p168
role in promoting interest in UC Berkeley p162
science. South of the city, San Vision Gallery
Jose’s growing Tech Museum
1155 Mission St. Map 5 C5.
of Innovation tells the inside
story of computers, developed Wells Fargo History Museum p110
largely in surrounding Silicon Yerba Buena Center for the Arts
Valley, and also has exciting Tile mural (1940–45) by Alfredo pp114–5
hands-on displays. Ramos Martínez, Mexican Museum
40 I N T R O D U C I N G S A N F R A N C I S C O

Exploring San Francisco’s Many Cultures

Half the population of San Francisco is either foreign- followed, the population of the
born or first-generation American. Spanish and Mexican Chinese community shrank
pioneers who arrived in the 18th and early 19th centuries due to the Exclusion Laws. In
established the foundations of today’s city, and the Gold the 1960s, immigration controls
Rush (see pp24–5) attracted fortune-seekers from all over were relaxed by President
Kennedy, and opponents of
the globe. Those who stayed built new communities the Mao regime living in Hong
and some, such as the Italians and the Chinese, have Kong were given permission
continued to maintain their own traditions. to emigrate to the US. The
population has now risen to
over 100,000 – approximately
one in five San Franciscans.
Chinatown (see pp96–100) is
still the city’s most populated
sector, and the heart of the
Chinese community. Banks,
schools and newspapers testify
to its autonomy, which is as
powerful today as it was
when the first settlers arrived
more than 150 years ago.

THE IRISH

In the late 1800s, thousands

of Irish immigrants came to
Mission District mural commemorating the cease-fire in El Salvador San Francisco and took what
jobs they could find. Many
Francisco. A second wave of worked as laborers on the
THE HISPANIC-AMERICANS immigrants, almost exclusively huge steam shovels used to fill
from Canton, arrived to work in the bayfront mudflats, while
You cannot go far in San on the transcontinental railroad others joined the police and
Francisco without coming in the 1860s. By the 1870s, the fire departments and rose to
across signs of the Hispanic Chinese formed the largest of positions of authority. By the
heritage of a city that was once the city’s minority groups, turn of the century, Irish labor
the northernmost outpost of with 40,000 people living in leaders had become an
Spanish America, then Mexico. poor conditions in and around effective force in the city. There
After the American takeover in Chinatown. At this time, the is no readily identifiable Irish
1846 (see pp24–5) Mexican Chinese men outnumbered section of San Francisco, but
landowners were displaced the Chinese women by 20 to Sunset and Richmond districts
by incoming prospectors and one. In the decades that are packed with Irish bars,
settlers, and most were left and the annual St. Patrick’s Day
homeless. However, many parade (see p48) still draws a
stayed in the Bay Area and the considerable crowd.
Hispanic population has
remained stable (about 10 per-
cent of the total) ever since. THE ITALIANS
Wandering among the
taquerias (snack bars) and The original Italians in San
mercados (shops) of the Francisco depended on
Mission District, it is easy to fishing for their livelihood.
imagine you are somewhere Today’s thriving North Beach
far south of the border. is inhabited by descendants of
the southern Italian fishermen
who came to settle here in
THE CHINESE the late 1800s. The early
immigrants to the
Since the gold rush days area were mostly
in the late 1840s, when an from the city of
estimated 25,000 people Genoa, the
fled from the chaos of birthplace of
China to work in
the California mines, the
Chinese have maintained a A young San Franciscan woman
significant presence in San wearing Chinese costume
 S A N F R A N C I S C O A T A G L A N C E 41

Christopher Columbus, after

whom North Beach’s main
avenue is named.
By the turn of the century,
the Sicilians had become the
major force in the area. In the
1940s, Italians were the pre-
dominant foreign-born group
in the city, with some 60,000
living and working in the lively
North Beach area alone.
Descendants of the families
who owned and operated the
fleet at Fisherman’s Wharf set
up shops and small businesses Sign outside a Russian shop in the Richmond District
here. The businesses prospered
after World War II, and many party of Siberian sailors thought
families moved to the suburbs to be buried there. Russians THE MELTING POT
in the 1950s and ’60s. However established a successful though
they often return to “Little Italy” short-lived colony at Fort Ross Other cultures are also
to patronize the excellent (see p189) 100 miles (160 km) represented in the city, but
Italian cafés and restaurants north of the city, and many still they are not as distinctly
that still flourish in the area. live in San Francisco. Since defined. Compared with New
1921, five editions a week York or Los Angeles, the Jewish
of the Russian Times have community in San Francisco is
been published for the 25,000 very small, but Jews have still
Russians now concentrated in wielded tremendous influence
the Richmond District around throughout the city’s history.
the Orthodox Holy Virgin Far Eastern cultures have also
Cathedral (see p63). formed identifiable commu-
nities. Groups of Vietnamese
and Cambodians live in the
THE JAPANESE Tenderloin neighborhood,
and significant populations of
Japanese businesses were Koreans and Thais are
active during the 1980s scattered throughout the city.
An Afro-Caribbean street stall property boom, buying and Indians and Pakistanis have
selling sweet potatoes and yams building many prestigious city settled in the Bay Area of San
center offices and hotels. Francisco, particularly in
Generally, however, the Berkeley and the “Silicon
THE AFRICAN-AMERICANS 15,000-strong Japanese Valley” computer industry
community in San Francisco heartland of the South Bay.
Although black people have keeps a low profile.
played an important role The exception is
throughout San Francisco’s at the Japan
history, the city’s large African- Center (see p128),
American community is a a prominent
relatively recent phenomenon. cultural and
In the 1930s, fewer than 5,000 shopping
blacks lived in San Francisco. complex on
Thousands more came to work Geary Boulevard. In
in the factories and shipyards the late 1930s, this
during World War II, increasing area extended over
the black population tenfold. 40 blocks. During
Some settled in areas made World War II, the
available by the relocation of Japanese along
Japanese-Americans to intern- the US West
ment camps, others in newer Coast were
communities near the relocated to
shipyards in Hunters Point. internment
camps in the
nation’s interior.
THE RUSSIANS After the war,
they drifted back
The first trappers and fur to the area, but
traders from Russia visited the now the com-
bay during the early 1800s. munity occupies
Russian Hill is named after a only six blocks. A police koban (booth) in Japantown
42 I N T R O D U C I N G S A N F R A N C I S C O

Gay San Francisco: A History

The history of the Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgender
(LGBT) community in San Francisco is in some ways the GETTING ORGANIZED:
story of the gay movement itself. The city has been a 1960s–1970s
mecca for gay people for much of its existence, and social
In the 1960s, police raids of
and political gains made here have had reverberations gay gatherings were common,
across the globe. The community is now more diverse often resulting in public
than ever, spread out across the entire city, not just the exposure of the arrested and
Castro (see p136), and you can hold hands with your affecting livelihoods. In 1961,
same-sex partner anywhere from the Financial District to José Sarria, a drag performer
Pacific Heights. This sense of freedom was a hard-won at the Black Cat Café, made
battle fought in the political arena of San Francisco. history by running for the
Board of Supervisors as an
openly gay man. Although he
Francisco was a main point of wasn’t elected, he proved there
deployment and re-entry for was a “gay vote” and inspired
troops, and gay soldiers had the founding of the Tavern
numerous “off-limits” bars and Guild, the country’s first gay
private gatherings to choose business association.
from. Also, for the first time in Guests at the 1965 fundrais-
the military’s history, homo- ing ball for the Council on
sexuals were being sought Religion and the Homosexual
out and dishonorably (CRH) were harassed and pho-
discharged, and many of tographed by police as they
these men chose to settle in entered. The American Civil
San Francisco rather than risk Liberties Union intervened,
stigmatization back home. ultimately helping gays win
The bohemian Black Cat Café, The 1950s, however, legal support including a com-
Montgomery Street, opened in 1933 heralded the real beginnings munity police liaison officer.
of a gay social consciousness, Another pivotal event was
with the founding of several New York’s Stonewall riots in
THE EARLY DAYS: “homophile” organizations, 1969. Once gay people had
1849–1960 which emphasized emotional stood up to police, they were
rather than sexual components no longer content with mere
The California Gold Rush of of same-gender coupling and acceptance. “Liberation” and
1849 drew scores of adventur- advised assimilation within “pride” became the move-
ers to the Bay Area, and its heterosexual
rough-and-tumble atmosphere society. Foremost
helped establish its reputation among these groups
for sexual license. Life along were the Mattachine
the Barbary Coast offered Society, which first
freedom from the conser- advanced the idea
vative mores of the rest of the of gay people as an
country, and by the beginning oppressed minority,
of the 20th century the city and the Daughters
was already being called of Bilitis, the
“Sodom by the Sea.” first lesbian
During World War II, the socio-political
city’s gay population organization in The colorful Gay Pride Parade celebrates the
positively exploded. San the United States. city’s gay history, culture and community

TIMELINE
1948 Alfred Kinsey’s 1955 Daughters 1970 First San Francisco Gay 2002 First 2008 The Cali-
groundbreaking of Bilitis, the Pride Parade, called “Gay-In” purpose- fornia Supreme
Sexual Behaviour in nation’s first built Court overturns
the Human Male is lesbian group, 1974 First Castro LGBT state’s ban on
published Alfred is formed Street Fair center same-sex
Kinsey opens marriage
1930 1940 1950 1960 1970 1980 1990 2000 2010
1964 Life 1981 First case of Kaposi’s
magazine article sarcoma (AIDS-related cancer) 2004 Mayor
1930s First gay bars “Homosexuality in Newson allows
appear, including America” names 1969 Police raid the Stonewall same-sex
artists’ hangout, the San Francisco Inn in New York. Ensuing riots marriages but
Black Cat Café, and “the capital of signal the start of the modern these are later
Mona’s, a lesbian bar the gay world” gay liberation movement annulled
 S A N F R A N C I S C O A T A G L A N C E 43

ment’s watchwords. Gays

wanted not just equal treatment FAIRS, FESTIVALS,
but also gay events, businesses, AND EVENTS
and organizations to thrive. AIDS Candlelight Vigil
With the establishment of May, usually 3rd Sunday.
the Castro as a gay area, the Tel 415-331-1500 ext 2437.
community gained political AIDS Walk San Francisco
force. In 1977, local shop July, date varies.
Tel 415-615-9255.
owner Harvey Milk was elected Castro Street Fair
to the Board of Supervisors, October, usually first Sunday.
becoming the nation’s first Tel 415-841-1824.
openly gay elected official. His Dyke March
tenure was cut short in 1978 June, Saturday evening before
when he and Mayor George Pride March.
Moscone were shot at City Hall Tel 415-777-3247.
Folsom Street Fair
by Dan White. This further September, usually last Sunday.
fueled the political movement Tel 415-648-3247.
– when White was found guilty The right to a same-sex wedding is Last and main event for popular
only of manslaughter and an on-going political battle Leather Week. Not only for the
given a light sentence, the leather and fetish community.
city rioted in what became Gay Pride Month
known as “White Night.” RECOVERY: June, various events.
Gay Pride Parade
1990–PRESENT June, last Sunday of the month.
Tel 415-864-3733.
THE PLAGUE YEARS: The 1990s were perhaps most Halloween
1980s marked by the increase in October 31. Party along Market
political clout for gay people, and Castro Streets. Map 10 D2.
After all the hard-won with the passage of domestic Home for the Holidays
political gains of the previous partnership laws, more gay December 24, SF Gay Men’s
Chorus Christmas concert at the
decades, the community was politicians being elected, mili- Castro Theatre (see p136).
decimated by a new adversary. tary policies on gays being Pink Saturday
In 1981, the first incidence of challenged, and much more. June, Saturday evening before
a rare form of cancer was The AIDS epidemic bred Pride March (men and women).
reported and within months, new forms of participation in Women’s alternate Pride parade
word spread of a disease San Francisco’s gay commu- and party in the Castro.
dubbed “the gay cancer.” The nity and to some degree made SF International Lesbian and
Gay Film Festival
disease was later named AIDS it more cohesive. But the June, usually ten days before Gay
(Auto-Immune Deficiency sheer numbers of members Pride Day.
Syndrome), which is caused lost means that the community Tel 415-703-8650.
by the HIV virus (Human is once again redefining itself, Up Your Alley Fair
Immunodeficiency Virus). The this time with an influx of August, usually first Sunday.
city’s gay community became diverse young people whose Tel 415-777-3247.
one of the hardest hit, with as sexual identities have been SoMa’s Dore Street fair. Map 11 A2.
many as half of the city’s gay formed in a much more open
men infected with HIV. It also society. In these days of same- CONTACT INFORMATION
became a model in developing sex on-screen kissing and
a response. People rapidly prom dating, gender roles are Betty’s List
mobilized to establish educa- more fluid, and there’s less of Tel 415-861-1637.
www.bettyslist.com
tion and prevention efforts a sense of urgency to sorting Online community directory.
and community-based services out the “rules” of sexuality. GLBT Historical Society
to care for people with AIDS. That said, the politics of 657 Mission Street. Map 6 D4.
San Francisco also leapt to the being gay are very much in Tel 415-777-5455.
forefront of research, estab- the forefront, and were put HIV/AIDS Hotline
lishing the San Francisco AIDS famously on view by Mayor Tel 415-863-2437.
Foundation and the Center for Gavin Newsom’s attempt at James C. Hormel Gay and
Lesbian Center
AIDS Prevention Studies at legalizing same-sex marriage. 100 Larkin St. Map 11 A1.
the UCSF Medical School. Some 3,000 couples were wed Tel 415-557-4400.
at City Hall in SF City Clinic
February of 2004, 356 7th Street. Map 11 B2.
a historic event Tel 415-487-5500.
broadcast around STD testing/counseling.
the world. The SF LGBT Community Center
1800 Market Street. Map 10 E1.
marriages were Tel 415-865-5555.
later invalidated Sex Information Hotline
by the courts, but Tel 415-989-7374.
it was clearly the Suicide Prevention Hotline
The San Francisco AIDS Fund, now AIDS opening salvo of Tel 415-781-0500.
Emergency Fund (AEF), established in 1982 an ongoing battle.
Exploring the Variety of Random
Documents with Different Content
THE STORY OF THE LITTLE
HALF-COCK
OHNNY and Molly lived in a little hut in the forest. When their
parents died they were left quite alone in the world, and had to
divide their heritage between them. They were dreadfully poor and
possessed nothing but two hens and a cock.
The puzzle was how to divide these animals into equal shares.
At last Molly said, “Let us cut the cock in two, and have half each.” This
was done; Johnny had the part with the head, and Molly had the tail end.
Molly plucked her portion of the cock, and put it into the saucepan.
Suddenly Johnny’s godmother, who was a fairy, appeared down the
chimney. “Listen,” she said to her godson, “you must not put your half into
the saucepan; I will enchant him, and he will do anything you wish.”
On saying which the fairy thrust her wand in the cinders, murmured some
strange words, and then touched the head of the Half-cock with her wand.
The clock struck midnight.
“Good-bye,” said the fairy, and she disappeared up the chimney.
“That is all very well,” said Johnny to his sister, “but what are we going
to do with the Half-cock now?”
Molly, who was the cleverer of the two, thought to herself, “If we had
money we should have everything we want.” She said, “Send him to Mr.
Brauncastle’s to fetch three bags of silver.”
The cock started off immediately.
On the way he met two robbers, who were much surprised, and said to
him, “Little Half-cock, where are you running to?”
“To Mr. Brauncastle’s,” he replied.
“May we go with you?”
“Yes, hide yourselves under my wings.”
The robbers settled themselves as comfortably as they could under the
Half-cock’s wings.
A little farther on they overtook two foxes.
 “Little Half-cock,
where are you going?”
they asked.
“To Mr. Brauncastle’s
castle.”
“May we come with
you?”
“Yes, hide yourselves
under my wings.”
In less than a second
the foxes had joined the
robbers.
At length the Little
Half-cock came to a
large pond which was
equally inquisitive.
“Little Half-cock,
where are you running so
quickly?” asked the
water.
“To Mr. Brauncastle’s
castle.”
“May I come with
you?”
“Yes, hide under my
wings.” Drip, drip—the
water joined the other
lodgers.
I WILL ENCHANT HIM
Ring-a-ding-ding!
The Half-cock rang at
the castle door.
 They immediately mounted Two Horses

“Tell your master that I want three bags of silver.”

“What an impertinent creature!” thought the servant who answered the
door. He took the message to his master. The latter replied, “Put the Little
Half-cock into the chicken-run with the hens.” This was done.
When night fell the Half-cock said to the foxes, “My good fellows, come
out from under my wings, and eat all the hens.”
There was no need to tell them twice; they set to work with a will,
feathers flew in all directions, and before you could count three they had
eaten the lot. When the servant went to the chicken-run the next morning, he
was horrified, and said to his master in a trembling voice, “All the hens have
been eaten. The Little Half-cock is roosting on the rafters, crying, ‘Cock-a-
doodle-do! Cock-a-doodle-do!’ ”
“Well, put him into the stable,” said his master. The servant did so, but
the next night the Little Half-cock set the robbers at liberty. They
immediately mounted two horses, and in the twinkling of an eye they
galloped off.
 “Now I know what to expect,” the servant said the next day, as he wiped
the perspiration from his brow. “This time the wretched thief shall not
escape me.”
The Little Half-cock was shut up in a red-hot oven. Now it was the
water’s turn to escape, and the fire was immediately put out.
The next day the water had risen to the first story, and the Little Half-
cock was swimming courageously on the surface, crowing as loudly as ever
he could.
“Give him three bags of silver as quickly as ever you can,” said Mr.
Brauncastle; “get rid of him or he will ruin me and all my family.”
The Little Half-cock went away and gave the money to his master.
Johnny and Molly were now rich, very rich.
They are very happy and get on well together; the Little Half-cock lives
with them, and is their best friend.
THE WATER JOINED THE OTHER LODGERS

The Blacksmith, the Dwarf, and his Hat

THE DWARF AND THE
BLACKSMITH
NCE upon a time there was a poor blacksmith who had no
possessions other than his wife and six children. He worked like a
nigger from morn to night, and it was all he could do to make both
ends meet at the end of each year.
One day he went to see a dying friend who lived some distance
from the village, and it was very late when he returned home. On the way
the road wound round a hill, at the foot of which lay a wood. As he turned
the corner of the road he heard a strange sound. In front of him, surrounded
by an embankment crowned with willow-trees, was a field flooded by
moonlight, where several little men with long beards were disporting
themselves. They were throwing their red caps in the air, and catching them
very skilfully on their toes.
Our blacksmith, who was not the bravest of mortals, dared not go on, and
hid himself behind a large tree among the bushes. After he had been there
some time there was a sudden silence, and quick as lightning all the little
dwarfs disappeared into the hill. On peering round him, the blacksmith
discovered that one dwarf remained behind. He seemed to be looking for
something. He saw him put his arm into a crack in the rock several times and
draw it out.
“This little fellow cannot harm me,” thought the smith; “I should very
much like to know what he is looking for.” Treading cautiously, he
approached the dwarf. He discovered that the dwarf’s hat had fallen into the
crack, and that his arm was not long enough to reach it. He immediately
pulled it out and handed it to him.
The little fellow thanked the smith, and said, “You will be rewarded for
what you have done for me to-day. We had a feast here to-day, during which
we are obliged to wear our caps on our heads. If I had lost mine I should not
have been able to attend the feasts for seven years.”
It goes without saying that the smith related his strange adventures to his
wife, and they were very curious to know how the dwarf would reward
them.
 E
very
nigh
t
befo
re
goin
g to
bed
the
blac
ksmi
th
prep
ared
the
wor
k
whic
h he
and
his
appr
entic
e
wou
ld
begi
n the
first
thin
g in
the
mor
ning
“THIS LITTLE FELLOW CANNOT HARM ME” .
 Picture his surprise the next day, when he found that the work had been
done during the night, and by such skilled hands that there was no fault to
find with it. His assistant, still serving his apprenticeship, was incapable of
such work. Who the clever workman could be he failed to discover.
 THEY WANTED TO FIND OUT HOW IT WAS DONE

When the same thing happened the following night, the smith and his
wife decided to keep watch. They wanted to find out how it was done.
The mystery was soon cleared up. Towards midnight, the smith, looking
through the chinks in the boards of the attic, saw the little dwarf whose hat
he had restored to him come in. The little fellow immediately set to work,
and worked without a pause till morning. It was splendid to see how quickly
he did it, and during this time he did more work than the smith and his
assistant could do in half a day.
This went on for some time. The smith sent away his assistant, although
his custom had increased, and he earned much money, so that he and his
wife and children enjoyed good times, and saved a large sum.
T
he
smit
h
and
his
wife
very
ofte
n
wat
che
d
the
dwa
rf at
his
wor
k,
and
they
cons
ulte
d
 ANOTHER SET OF VERY FINE MATERIAL toge
ther
to see in what way they could reward his kindness. One day his wife said, “I
have an idea; didn’t you notice last time that his clothes looked rather
shabby? I shall make him another set of very fine material.” This was done.
The wife made the dwarf a set of clothes fit for a prince, and in the evening
it was folded neatly and placed on a chair in the smithy. The smith and his
wife went into the attic to see what would happen.
The dwarf was delighted with the clothes. He unfolded them and
examined them one by one, and his smiling face showed how pleased he
was. He put the garments on, and when he was dressed, he put on his little
red hat decorated with a feather.
He was as proud as a peacock, and greatly pleased with
 THE DWARF’S FEAST

himself. At length he turned to the door and disappeared, this time without
doing a stroke of work.
The blacksmith never saw the little imp again. The work prepared
overnight was no longer finished in the morning. The smith was obliged to
do the work himself, but his two eldest sons could help him now, and so,
thanks to the dwarf, they were always able to keep the wolf from the door.
The Wizard, the Turkey, and the Countess
PERCY THE WIZARD
NICKNAMED SNAIL
ONG ago, when women spun at their spinning-wheels, there lived
a man who was nicknamed Snail.
Snail was very fond of a glass, and his wife had a weakness for
hotchpotch.
Every week Percy Snail took the thread his wife had spun to
market. His wife never scolded him for losing a few pennies, or being
muddle-headed on the way back, provided he brought all the necessary
ingredients for a nice hotchpotch.
One day he sold the thread at a high price. He was in good spirits; all the
way home he rattled the money in his pocket, thinking, “To-day I shall be
able to have more than one glass.” He went into every little wayside inn he
passed, in order to see where the best liquor was sold. Little by little his
money began to disappear, until he had scarcely any left, and he realized at
the same time that he was rather intoxicated. He stumbled along the road as
well as he could, and on putting his hand in his pocket, found, to his great
surprise, that he had only five farthings.
He counted them over and over again until he was forced to
 THE NECESSARY INGREDIENTS FOR A NICE HOTCHPOTCH

believe his eyes. The worst of it was that he had quite forgotten his wife’s
favourite dish. He continued his way meditating and calculating, and quite
unconsciously entered another inn. In a second his last farthing was in the
innkeeper’s pocket.
He suddenly felt very tired and fell asleep with his head on the table.
When he awoke he felt better, and his head was clearer. He considered what
he had better do. He dared not return home as he knew what a warm
welcome he would have! He could not stay in the inn as he had spent all his
money, and innkeepers do not give credit. Although undecided, he was about
to leave the inn, when the innkeeper, pleased to have a chat so early in the
evening, told him that the countess who lived at the neighbouring castle had
had a ring set with diamonds stolen.
The wealthy lady, who set great value on the ring, had promised a reward
of a hundred crowns to the finder.
“Well, upon my soul,” thought Percy, contemplating his empty glass,
“that would be a stroke of luck for me; if I could discover the thief, I should
be saved.”
Without answering the innkeeper, he got up, went off at once to the
castle, and introduced himself as a wizard.
The countess promised him a hundred crowns if in three days he
succeeded in discovering the thief. If he failed to do so, he would be sent
away in disgrace.
The first day he searched all the nooks and crannies in the garden for the
lost jewel. He ferreted in every bush and ditch, turned over every mole-hill,
but in vain. Quite by chance, while he was feeling in the moss and the grass,
he saw three servants talking excitedly together. Very ashamed at the thought
that these men should have witnessed his useless and ridiculous search, Snail
passed by them still in a bent position, but at the same time glanced defiantly
at them.
IF I COULD DISCOVER THE THIEF
 One of them whispered to the Others

Now a strange thing happened. He had hardly turned his back on the
three men when one of them whispered to the others, so low that Percy was
unable to hear what they were saying, “Beware, my friends, be careful what
you say. This strange wizard looked at us as though he were watching us; has
he already discovered the thief?”
In the evening, after Percy Snail had had his supper, the countess ordered
a valet to show him to his room. Percy was very depressed; one day had
passed without his having discovered a single clue. He sank into a chair with
a deep sigh, and as the servant was leaving the room, muttered under his
breath, “Poor fellow! That is one of the three.”
When the servant heard this he was very frightened. He rushed
downstairs and said to his comrades, “My friends, we are lost, this stranger
has discovered everything.” He told them what he had heard. From that
moment they avoided Percy.
The second day he searched in the attics and cellars of the castle, but
could not find the ring. As chance would have it, in the evening the countess
ordered another valet to show Percy Snail to his room. He was more
depressed than ever, and flung himself down on the bed, saying to himself,
“Poor fellow, you are to be pitied! That is already the second, and still
nothing.”
The valet, who listened attentively, repeated these words to his
accomplices. “The wretch has certainly discovered all. I bet my life that to-
morrow he will tell the countess everything. We shall then be imprisoned as
well as lose our good places.”
Aft
er a
long
discus
sion,
they
decide
d to
confes
s all
to the
wizar
d, to
implo
re him
not to
betray
them
to the
count
ess,
and to
offer
him
part
TO OFFER HIM PART OF THEIR SAVINGS
of
their
savings.
 This was done. They explained their position to Percy Snail, handed him
the diamond ring, and the sum of money agreed on between them.
“Are you convinced now,” said Snail, taking leave of them, “that your sin
will always find you out? I discovered your villainy during the first hour I
passed in the castle. I will keep silence this time, but beware if I find you out
again.”
Percy Snail, full of cunning, procured a little lump of paste; in it he
concealed the ring, and threw it to some geese and turkeys which were
feeding near by.
“Ik, kih, ih-kih!” said a fat turkey, and “slok,” the little lump of paste was
swallowed.
An hour or two afterwards Percy asked for the countess.
 THREW IT TO SOME GEESE AND TURKEYS

“Noble lady,” he said, “disabuse your mind of all suspicion against your
servants. That black turkey is the thief.”
The bird was promptly seized and killed.
You can imagine every one’s astonishment when the ring was discovered.
Snail thought he would immediately receive the promised reward of a
hundred crowns, but he was rudely mistaken.
The countess suspected that she was dealing with a rogue. In order to be
quite satisfied on this point she decided to put him to a second test.
“I am lost in admiration at your ability,” she said in a forced manner. “I
beg you not to go without giving me another proof of your skill.”
Snail, who knew full well what she meant, was very ill at ease. However,
he boldly replied, “Madam, I am yours to command, one proof more or less
is nothing to me.”

The Countess had Two Dishes placed before him

 In the evening, when seated at table for supper, the countess had two
dishes placed before him, one on the top of the other.
They fitted so exactly that no one could suspect that a little snail had been
placed between them.
“Wizard,” said the countess, “listen to me; if you can tell me what lies
between these two dishes, I will give you fifty crowns over and above those
you were promised! If, however, you do not know, you will be turned out of
the castle, after receiving as many lashes with the whip as you would have
received crowns.”
You can imagine how his heart sank within him. He was struck dumb,
and could not hide his confusion. He was over an hour cudgelling his brains
for an answer, but without success. He dared not open his lips for fear of
guessing wrong.
He thought of his wife, and the whipping that awaited him, and his
courage slipped away from him. He strained every nerve in his agitation.
“Well, poor Snail, poor Snail,” he sighed.
Imagine his surprise when the countess said, “I am beaten, my friend, I
am beaten. It is a snail....”
She lifted off the top dish. The insect was lying dead on the lower dish.
Our wizard’s joy was boundless. He received the hundred and fifty
crowns, and ran home with all speed.
For a whole week he continued to indulge himself with little glasses, and
his wife ate hotchpotch every day to the honour and glory of the worthy
Snail, who by a stroke of good fortune had become such a clever wizard.
Simple John
SIMPLE JOHN
IMPLE John had served his master, a cowkeeper, for seven years,
when the latter being overwhelmed by misfortunes was obliged to
dismiss his servants. Having no money with which to reward John
for his faithful service, he proposed to give him the one remaining
horse in his stables.
John, who had sometimes driven in the horses from the field on Sunday
evenings when the grooms were at the inn, jumped for joy at the suggestion.
He thanked his master with all his heart, and led the beast from the stable.
He set out on his journey home to his parents’ hut, singing:

“You set out on foot, you return on horseback.”

In about half an hour he reached a cross-road, where he saw a peasant

with a cow harnessed to a plough working in his field.
“What a strange and useful beast,” thought John, as he pulled up his
horse. “Tell me, man,” he cried to the peasant, “is that animal strong enough
for such hard work?”
“If she chooses,” replied the other. “I wager she can pull as well as the
best horse, and not only can she draw the plough, but she gives milk, which
my wife churns into excellent cheeses,
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