10/22 | Volume 148 | Thannhausen, Germany, October 20, 2022

home care
An Antigraying Technology to Sustain Whiteness
Multi-phase Machine Dishwashing Detergent

10 2022
english

personal care
A Cosmetic Ingredient to Restore Facial Balance
Astaxanthin – the Red Diamond Amongst Antioxidants
A Novel Strategy for Holistic Skin Rejuvenation
Advancing Sustainability in Hair Care
Water Lily Roots – Perfect Volume for Urban Hair

specialties
Innovative Solution for Cosmetic Protection
with Skin Functional Activity
Practical Advice for Dealing with Advertising Claims

Biodegradable Fragrances
The Search for Suitable Packaging for Cosmetics
Conflicting Goals of Sustainability – Why Wood is the Solution
Brilliant results
even in a cold wash
All households are keen to cut their energy bills – and washing
at lower temperatures is a clear way to save. But doing laundry
is a lot about habits and people will only make the change if their
detergent can deliver visibly clean results on the toughest stains.
With BASF´s performance ingredients
■ Tinopal® CBS-X
■ Lavergy® Pro Types
■ Lavergy® C Bright 100 L
■ Sokalan® SR 400 A
you can formulate liquid detergents that promise your customers
spotlessly clean, fresh results at low temperatures.
And in addition, it is an easy way to protect the environment!
 content

home care
Sonja Fischer, Antoine Beziau, Darshan Patwardhan-Huber, Jesper Duus Nielsen

56 specialties
An Antigraying Technology to Sustain Whiteness on Multiple Fabric Types
and Different Stain Types 2
Klaus Henning
packaging Multi-phase Machine Dishwashing Detergent in Single-dose Format 8
The Search for Suitable Packaging
for Cosmetics - a Case Study personal care
Mola Gemma, Gonzàlez-Pons Eulàlia, Gálvez Jordi,
Soley Albert, Almiñana Núria, Delgado Raquel
Development of a Cosmetic Ingredient to Restore Facial Balance,
Inspired by Aesthetic Procedures 14
Elisabeth Willeit
Astaxanthin – the Red Diamond Amongst Antioxidants 22
Julia Baumann, Franziska Wandrey, Fred Zülli
A Novel Strategy for Holistic Skin Rejuvenation 28
Amber Yarnell Ph.D., Dr. Matthias Kunze
Advancing Sustainability in Hair Care Using a Multifunctional Surfactant 34
Dr. Bernd Walzel, Dr. Ulrike Bätz, Dr. Anja Herrmann,
Beatrix Senti, Tamina Shah, Dr. Stefan Bänziger
Water Lily Roots – Perfect Volume for Urban Hair 38
Karin Stoffels, Elodie Oger, Laurine Bergeron, Laura Mouret, Sandrine Pinacolo
Innovative Solution for Cosmetic Protection with Skin Functional Activity 42
S. Hönlinger
Cosmetic Claims: Practical Advice / Recommendations for Dealing with
Advertising Claims Part 2: Products for Dental and Oral Care 47

specialties
Stampa Alberto, Pájaro, Marta
Exploring Sustainability Claims: Biodegradable Fragrances 53
Phil Rosenow, Elisabeth Destler, Arielle Springer
The Search for Suitable Packaging for Cosmetics - a Case Study 56
Lena-Sophie Rehn, Janina Jarothe
Conflicting Goals of Sustainability – Why Wood is the Solution 60

advertorials 66

interview

60 specialties
packaging
Conflicting Goals of Sustainability –
Why Wood is the Solution
Skin Care
Contaminants in the Production of Vegetable Oils – We Care!
What Started Out as a One-Man-Show …
Two Women have been Elected
68
70
72
74

formulations 76

SOFW’s event-preview 82

index of advertisers / imprint 84

 content
home care | laundry

An Antigraying Technology to Sustain Whiteness

on Multiple Fabric Types and Different Stain Types
Sonja Fischer, Antoine Beziau, Darshan Patwardhan-Huber, Jesper Duus Nielsen

abstract

C onsumers use whiteness as an indicator for washing performance. Graying of fabrics is especially observed after several wash-
ing cycles. To retain a high level of whiteness, even after multiple washes, BASF developed an antigraying solution that works
on cotton and synthetic fabrics. The enzyme-chemistry solution increases the level of performance and convenience even at low
temperatures. Using enzymes in combination with surfactants, polymers, and optical brighteners will take liquid detergents to
the next level.

Whiteness is a Key Consumer Demand the appropriate combination of surfactants and polymers
is crucial to keep them suspended in the wash liquor. Such
Today, consumers have high expectations for their laundry dispersing polymers work very well in combination with an-
detergents. They should be easy to handle, sustainable, tigraying cellulases.
and provide excellent washing results. As consumers invest
in their clothing, they see the value of detergents that help
to protect and extend the longevity of their textiles. Be-
sides stain removal, consumers expect bright whites with-
out graying even after multiple washing cycles. Brilliant
whites, however, are still a challenge for liquid detergents.
In powder detergents, whiteness is ensured by means of
a bleach system and graying inhibitors, like carboxymeth- Fig. 1 Mechanistic principle of antigraying cellulase
ylcellulose. Such protection in liquid detergents needs
to be delivered differently, which requires formulation
know-how and access to cutting-edge technology – both To sum up, antigraying cellulase works by removing the bind-
of which are crucial to give consumers the best washing ing sites for particulate soil during the washing cycle to:
performance. a)  clear away particulate dirt and
b)  ensure that it is not redeposited from the wash liquor onto
the clean fabric.
The Effect of Antigraying Cellulases
As fabric is worn and washed, small imperfections arise on
its surface, which attract and trap particulate dirt. A grayish
layer of such particulate soil builds up after multiple uses
and washing cycles, causing the fabric to lose its white-
ness and gray even further. One technology known to im-
prove whiteness is antigraying cellulase. It removes the sites
where particulate soil is bound on a molecular level to the
fabric surface. As seen in Figure  1, the enzyme specifical-
ly targets areas of amorphous cellulose (which binds soils)
and removes such from the surface of the fabric to restore
whiteness.
Since the areas of amorphous cellulose are created during
the natural life cycle of the fabric, such antigraying cellu- Fig. 2 External testing institute results confirm the whiteness effect
lases do not reduce the tensile strength of the fabric. Once of Lavergy C Bright. Full-scale wash test performed at 30 °C for three
cycles with 3 g/L of liquid model detergent and 0.1% of antigraying
the amorphous cellulose and soil particles have been re-
cellulase. The higher the Y value, the whiter the fabric.
moved from the fabric and drawn into the wash solution,

2 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

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 content
home care | laundry

To demonstrate its effect, two model detergents were com-

pared: one with an antigraying cellulase and one without.
The fabric whiteness was determined by measuring the Y
value of the clean cotton fabric as well as the fabric after be-
ing washed in each of the detergents. The cotton fabric was
washed at 30°C for three cycles in a standard cotton program
in a Miele washing machine with a water hardness of 14 °dH.
An EU model detergent in the amount of 3 g/L was used with
and without 0.1% Lavergy® C Bright 100 L antigraying cel-
lulase (detergents A and B in Table  1 below). To simulate the
real-life graying effect, donor stains with black carbon traffic
dirt were added. As seen in Figure  2, it is clear that adding
an antigraying cellulase significantly increase the whiteness of
the cotton fabric after wash. Fig. 3 The whiteness pyramid is a helpful tool for designing a laun-
dry detergent that gives consumers superior whiteness.
Figure   2 shows the impressive whiteness effect of the catalyt-
ic mechanism of the antigraying cellulases, which
were observed on cotton and mixed fabrics con-
Ingredient Detergent Detergent Detergent
taining cotton and synthetics. This in itself is very B C
Function A
consumer relevant as it already helps formulators Anionic surfactant 5.5% Maranil® DBS/LC 5.5% Maranil® DBS/LC 5.5% Maranil® DBS/LC
deliver perceivable whiteness benefits. Getting a Anionic surfactant 5.4% Texapon® N70 5.4% Texapon® N70 5.4% Texapon® N70
similar effect from the enzymes on synthetic fab- Nonionic surfactant 5.4% Lutensol® AO 7 5.4% Lutensol® AO 7 5.4% Lutensol® AO 7
rics, however, has traditionally been more of a Soap 2.4% coconut fatty acid 2.4% coconut fatty acid 2.4% coconut fatty acid
challenge. Solvent 6% 1,2-propylene glycol 6% 1,2-propylene glycol 6% 1,2-propylene glycol
Solvent 2% ethanol 2% ethanol 2% ethanol
Builder 3% sodium citrate 3% sodium citrate 3% sodium citrate

What Liquid Detergents Need to Achieve Antigraying cellulase 0.2% Lavergy® C

Bright 100 L
0.2% Lavergy® C
Bright 100 L
and Maintain Perfect Whiteness Dispersing polymer 1.25% Sokalan® HP 20
Dispersing polymer 4% Sokalan® CP 9
For base whites, a strong surfactant and enzyme pH adjustment
2.2% NaOH 2.2% NaOH 2.2% NaOH
system that removes all kinds of stains is needed. Water To 100% To 100% To 100%
They also require a dye transfer inhibitor that pre-
Tab. 1 Model detergent compositions
vents discoloration caused by bleeding dyes and
an antigraying booster that keeps solved soil dis-
persed in the washing liquor. To demonstrate the effect, three separate detergents (A, B and
For brilliant whites – the so called “whiter than white” effect C, described in Table  1) were prepared, differing only with re-
– optical brighteners are required. To boost the bleaching and gard to the inclusion of antigraying cellulase and the support-
whiteness performance, shading dyes can be used as a pho- ing polymer system.
tocatalyst, especially in countries in which outdoor drying is
common. Therefore, to achieve and maintain perfect white-
ness over several washing cycles, not only is a bundle of ingre-
dients needed, but so is the knowledge on how to combine
and formulate those ingredients into a liquid detergent – as is
illustrated in Figure  3.

From Cotton to Synthetics:

Expanding the Whiteness Effect Across Fabric Types
A new and exciting innovation by BASF shows that by com-
bining an antigraying cellulase with the correct chemistry, the
antigraying effects in liquid detergents on cotton can be ex-
panded to mixed and synthetic fabrics as well. Studies have
shown that dispersing polymers work especially well with
Lavergy C Bright 100 L antigraying cellulase to achieve the
whiteness effect on any type of fabric and on fabrics soiled Fig. 4 The combination of antigraying cellulase and dispersion poly-
mers expand the whiteness benefit to mixed and synthetic fabrics.
with either predominantly traffic dirt (black carbon) or clay.

4 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

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 content
home care | laundry

The three detergents in Table  1 were used at 3 g/L in the stan- solution will prevent fabrics from graying and will extend the
dard cotton program in a Miele washing machine to wash longevity of consumers’ favorite clothes.
Figure 4:three items ofof antigraying
The combination mixed synthetic fabrics
cellulase and at polymers
dispersion 30 °C with
expandathe whiteness In addition, it is highly compatible with short and low-tem-
water
benefit to mixed and synthetic fabrics.
hardness of 14 °dH in the presence of black carbon and clay perature washing cycles, contributing to more sustainable
To furthersoil donors.
demonstrate theFrom
effect, the
a set data in
of cotton Figure  4,
and it is
synthetic fabric clear
was to
washed see that
at 30°C in a
standard cotton program in a Miele washing machine with a water hardness of 14°dH with either black
laundry.
carbon orby combining the correct polymers with the correct enzyme
clay soil donors. The fabric whiteness was measured as dY. A summary of the results is The effects of the experiment can be seen in front of your eyes,
shown in Table 2.
in the detergent, it is possible to significantly boost the white- as shown in Figure  6. Two beakers were filled with water, a dis-
ness effect on mixed and synthetic fabrics.
Table 2: With BASF’s antigraying solution, impressive whiteness effects can be seen on both cotton
persion of particulate soil, and white fabric. To one beaker, the
and synthetic fabrics regardless of whether the soil is from EMPA/SBL or clay. combination of antigraying cellulase and supporting polymers
Detergent B Detergent C
was added. After the wash and rinse at room temperature, the
Textile/Soil EMPA/SBL Clay EMPA/SBL Clay
significant whiteness benefit can be observed even before the
Cotton ++ + ++ ++
Synthetics ~ ~ ++ ++

Tab.demonstrates
Table 2 clearly 2 With BASF’s that antigraying solution,must
formulation know-how impressive whiteness
be combined effects art
with state-of-the
ingredients to achieve great whiteness benefits across fabric and soil types.
can be seen on both cotton and synthetic fabrics regardless of whet-
Seeing the her theinsoil
effect is of
front from EMPA/SBL
your eyes or clay.
At the end of the day, the whiteness effect of a formulation needs to be visible to consumers and not
only in the lab results. To demonstrate the efficacy of our solution, BASF performed antigraying tests
of detergents A and C in a laundrometer under strong graying conditions on cotton and mixed
syntheticTo further
fabrics demonstrate
to demonstrate theRemission
visible results. effect, measurement
a set of cotton
allowed and syn-
the formulations
with and without the antigraying solution to be compared.
thetic fabric was washed at 30 °C in a standard cotton pro-
gram in a Miele washing machine with a water hardness
of 14 °dH with either black carbon or clay soil donors. The Fig. 6 Visible effect of combining an antigraying cellulase with the right
fabric whiteness was measured as dY. A summary of the cocktail of dispersing polymers. Experiment details can be found by
scanning the QR code.
results is shown in Table  2.

fabric is dry. A video of this

experiment with further de-
tails can be found by scan-
ning the QR code.
In conclusion, maintaining a
fabric’s whiteness is a great
challenge for liquid deter-
gents, but, by combining the
correct formulation know-
how and the correct ingre-
Fig. 5 Laundrometer results of an EU model detergent with and without the BASF antigraying solution. dients, it is possible to give
Conditions: detergent dosage of 4 g/L, water hardness of 14 °dH, three wash cycles at 30 °C for 30 min with the consumer the superior
mixed soil (EMPA101, SBL2004, and WFK clay slurry) – renewed each wash cycle. The higher the sum of the whiteness they expect even
remission value on the y-axis, the whiter the fabric after wash.
at low-temperature washing
cycles.
Table  2 clearly demonstrates that formulation know-how The data clearly demonstrates that no matter how effective
must be combined with state-of-the art ingredients to achieve one ingredient is, it cannot solve all the laundry challenges
great whiteness benefits across fabric and soil types. consumers face. Selecting a partner who has formulation ex-
pertise and the correct ingredients continues to be crucial for
Seeing the Effect in Front of your Eyes detergent producers who aim to deliver superior whiteness to
the consumer.
At the end of the day, the whiteness effect of a formulation
needs to be visible to consumers and not only in the lab results.
contact
To demonstrate the efficacy of our solution, BASF performed
antigraying tests of detergents A and C in a laundrometer un-
der strong graying conditions on cotton and mixed synthetic Sonja Fischer, Antoine Beziau, Darshan Patwardhan-Huber, Jesper Duus Nielsen
fabrics to demonstrate visible results. Remission measurement BASF, Carl-Bosch-Strasse 38, 67056 Ludwigshafen am Rhein, Germany
allowed the formulations with and without the antigraying www.home-care-cleaning.basf.com
solution to be compared (Figure  5). Corresponding Author:
The significantly higher remission showed that graying was Darshan Patwardhan-Huber | [email protected]
prevented by the antigraying solution. This means that the

6 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

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 content
home care | dishwashing detergent

Multi-phase Machine Dishwashing Detergent in Single-dose Format

Klaus Henning

abstract

A machine dishwashing detergent in single-dose format is prepared by layering a solid powder detergent composition and a
solid gel composition in a water-soluble single-chamber container (e.g. a sachet) made from a water-soluble polymer film
of PVOH. Both components are in direct contact. For example, the single-chamber bag contains 18 grams of powder and
2 grams of solid gel.

Machine Dishwashing Detergent in Single-dose Format mance, can be manufactured economically and is aesthet-
ically pleasing to consumers. In particular, there is a need
Dishwashing detergents and detergents in single-dose for- for machine dishwashing detergents as a single compart-
mat for use in dishwashers or washing machines are pre- ment sachet that provides the required cleaning perfor-
ferred by consumers because of the ease and convenience mance and reduced staining and filming on the washed
of use, reduced consumption costs per application and mi- dishes.
nimised direct skin contact with potentially skin irritating
ingredients.
US  7  439  215 describes the composition of a machine Multiphase Machine Dishwashing Detergent
dishwashing detergent in single-dose format enclosed in in a Single-chamber Sachet
a multi-chamber bag of water-soluble polymer film, with
one ingredient such as the powdered substances contained A machine dishwashing detergent to be used in a sin-
in one chamber and the liquid ingredients contained in a gle-dose format contains, in a water-soluble single-cham-
second chamber separate from the first chamber. Other ber bag defined as a single chamber, a solid cleaning com-
single-dose formats used in water-soluble multi-chamber position comprising
bags in machine dishwashing are described in US Patents •  at least one detergent surfactant
5  243  077, 3  218  776, 4  776  455, 6  727  215, 6  878  679, •  a solid gel composition comprising
7  259  134, 7  282  472, 7  304  025, 7  329  441, 7  439  215, (a) a nonionic surfactant in an amount of from 2.5%
7  464  519 and 7  595  290. to 50% by weight
US  5  972  870 describes a multi-layer detergent tablet in (b) a polar organic solvent in an amount up to 70%
single-dose format with the detergent in the outer layer by weight
and a fabric softener, water softener or fragrance in the in- (c) water
ner layer. Other single-dose formats of detergent products (d) a water-soluble structuring agent in an amount of from
consist of dual chambers, as described in WO 02/08380, 0.5 to 15% by weight or from 0.5 to 65% by weight,
wherein the first chamber contains a detergent composi- or a combination thereof, based on the total weight
tion and the second chamber contains a fabric softener of the solid gel composition.
composition.
However, the use of these multi-chamber systems is associ- The solid cleaning composition and the solid gel composi-
ated with several disadvantages. For example, in the manu- tion are contained within the single chamber and the solid
facture of the multi-chamber bag, each compartment must cleaning composition is in direct contact with the solid gel
be sealed from the others, which increases production costs. composition. Preferably, there is little or no visible mixing
US  8  551 929 describes a single-dose format of a deter- that occurs at the intermediate stage between the solid
gent as a single compartment polyvinyl alcohol (PVOH) bag cleaning composition and the solid gel composition. The
containing a solid gel formulation with high viscosity at single chamber container may be a moulded sealed bag.
room temperature, which can be layered directly onto a The weight ratio of the solid cleaning composition to
powdered detergent formulation. the solid gel composition is from 10 : 1 to 1 : 1. The sol-
Therefore, it is desirable to produce a single-chamber sa- id cleaning composition may be in the form of powders,
chet as a single-dose format that has optimum perfor- particles, granules, pastilles, prills, tablets, crystals or a

8 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

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 content
home care | dishwashing detergent |

combination thereof. The detergent and / or cleansing Formulation for a Textile Detergent
surfactant in the solid cleansing composition includes an
anionic surfactant, a nonionic surfactant, a zwitterionic For use as a fabric wash, the solid gel comprises a detergent
surfactant (ampholytic surfactant), a cationic surfactant, or cleaning enhancer composition of components selected
or a combination thereof. from the group consisting of detersive surfactants, clays, en-
The structuring agent contained in the solid gel compo- zymes, chelating agents and bleaching agents, as well as a
sition comprises a C12-C22 fatty acid salt or a mixture of bleach activator, a bleach catalyst, a silicone, a soil release
C12-C22 fatty acid salts, for example sodium stearate, so- polymer, a greying inhibitor, a fragrance, an encapsulated
dium palmitate, sodium arachidate, sodium behenate or a fragrance, a dye, an optical brightener, a bleaching agent,
mixture thereof. The amount of structuring agent is from 1 a fabric softener and a combination thereof. Other ingredi-
to 10% by weight. ents include water or a polar organic solvent, or a combina-
The solid gel composition may also contain a co-struc- tion thereof, and a water-soluble structuring agent or a wa-
turing agent comprising polyethylene glycol, a polyeth- ter-soluble co-structuring agent, or a combination thereof.
ylene-polypropylene block copolymer, polyvinyl alcohol, The solid detergent or enhancer composition and the solid
polyvinyl pyrollidone, a natural or semi-synthetic polymer, gel composition are contained in the single chamber, and
or a mixture thereof. Suitable natural or semi-synthet- the solid detergent or enhancer composition is in direct con-
ic polymers include tragacanth, gelatin, pectin, starch, tact with the solid gel composition. The single chamber con-
xanthan gum, dextran, magnesium aluminium silicate tainer may be a moulded sealed bag.
(veegum), methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl-
cellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl-
cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose or a mixture thereof. Examples
The co-structuring agent is present in an amount of 5 to
60% by weight, based on the total weight of the solid gel The dishwashing composition of the single-dose format is
composition. enclosed in a water-soluble single-chamber bag. The wa-
Suitable nonionic surfactants included in the solid gel ter-soluble single compartment pouch used for this pur-
composition are alkoxylated alcohols, polyoxyalkylene al- pose is formed of a water-soluble material that dissolves,
kyl ethers, polyoxyalkylene alkyl phenyl ethers, polyoxyal- breaks up, disperses or disintegrates upon contact with
kylene sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylene sorbitol water and releases the composition contained therein. The
fatty acid esters, polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters, al- water-soluble single-chamber pouch may be formed from a
kyl polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene water-soluble polymer. Suitable water soluble polymers in-
polyoxypropylene alkyl ethers, polyoxyalkylene castor oils, clude polyvinyl alcohol, cellulose ether, polyethylene oxide,
polyoxyalkylene alkylamines, glycerol fatty acid esters, al- starch, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyacrylamide, polyacryloni-
kyl glucosamides, alkyl glucosides, alkyl amine oxides, or trile, polyvinyl methyl ether maleic anhydride, polymaleic
a combination thereof. In some embodiments, the non- anhydride, styrene maleic anhydride, hydroxyethyl cellulose,
ionic surfactant is an alkoxylated alcohol. The amount of methyl cellulose, polyethylene glycols, carboxymethyl cellu-
nonionic surfactant is from 2.5% to 49% by weight. lose, polyacrylic acid salts, alginates, acrylamide copolymers,
The solid gel composition may contain as polar organic guar gum, casein, ethylene maleic anhydride resins, poly-
solvents monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, glycol, al- ethyleneimine, ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, ethyl methyl cel-
kylene glycol, dialkylene glycol, trialkylene glycol, poly- lulose, hydroxyethyl methyl cellulose and mixtures thereof.
ethylene glycol or a mixture thereof. For example, the In some embodiments, the water-soluble single-chamber bag is
polar organic solvent may be ethylene glycol, propylene made from a water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol (PVOH) film-form-
glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene gly- ing resin of lower molecular weight. Suitable PVOH resins are
col, glycerol, tripropylene glycol, trimethylene glycol, di- sold under the trade names MONOSOL® (MonoSol LLC, Merrill-
ethylene glycol, sorbitol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, ville, Indiana) and SOLUBLON® (Aicello, Toyohashi, Aichi, Japan).
butanediol or a polyethylene glycol having a molecular
weight in the range of 200 to about 600. The amount of
polar organic solvent is 10 to 70% by weight. Examples
The water content in the solid gel composition is 3 to
40% by weight.The solid gel has a hardness of 10 to 500 To prepare a solid gel for a machine dishwashing detergent
N measured on a circular solid gel sample with dimen- to be dispensed in single-dose format, dipropylene glycol,
sions of 1 inch diameter x 0.5 inch thickness or 1 inch non-ionic surfactant and deionised water are mixed togeth-
diameter x 0.15 inch thickness using a force analyser. er at room temperature and heated to 80 °C. The mixture is
The solidification temperature is 35 to 70 °C measured then stirred until all the sodium stearate is dissolved. Sodium
by DSC at a cooling rate of 10 °C/min. Melting tempera- stearate is then added and the mixture is stirred until all
ture is 50 to 85 °C measured with DSC at a heating rate sodium stearate is dissolved. After adding dye, the solution
of 10 °C/min. is mixed to obtain a uniformly coloured gel. The mixture is

10 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

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Estrel Congress Center Berlin

The NEW Exhibition

and Conference
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 content
home care | dishwashing detergent

Parts ness from 62.9 N to 129.4 N (comparing formulation 1 with 3).

Ingredients Function
(Gew.-%) However, this is not linear. Surprisingly, the addition of 76
Dipropylene glykol Solvent 51.225 wt% Triton DF-16 resulted in a formulation with lower hard-
ness (formulation 10, hardness 41.4 N) than the reference gel
Nonionic
Plurafc SLF-180 or Triton DF-16 25.0 composition containing no surfactant (formulation 1, hard-
surfactant
ness 62.9 N), which does not contain a non-ionic surfactant.
Water, deionised 18.750
Similarly, the hardness of the solid gel was increased by adding
Sodium stearate
Structuring
5.0 the non-ionic surfactant Plurafac SLF-180, but the response
agent
was not linear. The addition of 40 wt% Plurafac SLF-180 (for-
LT Blue HP Dye 0.025 mulation 4) achieved maximum hardness. The addition of 76
wt% Plurafac SLF-180 (formulation 6) resulted in a formula-
Tab. 1 Composition of the solid gel phase tion with similar hardness (hardness 61.3 N) to the reference
of the machine dishwashing detergent
solid gel composition (formulation  1, hardness 62.9 N).

Nonionic Sodium Solidification Melting

Formulation Water (%) DPG (%) Hardness (N)
surfactant stearate (%) point (°C) point (°C)

1 Reference without
- 5 19 76 62.9 52.1 71.7
surfactant

2 25% SLF-180 5 19 51 129.4 49.2 58.0

3 40% SLF-180 5 19 36 159.4 45.2 57.8

4 60% SLF-180 5 19 16 94.2 45.4 58.3

5 76% SLF-180 5 19 - 61.3 48.2 58.7

6 25% Triton DF16 5 19 51 141.5 42.1 55.5

7 25% Triton DF16 5 19 36 108.4 41.6 57.1

8 25% Triton DF16 5 19 16 77.4 40.7 53.6

9 25% Triton DF16 5 19 - 41.4 39.6 52.5

Tab. 2 Influence of the proportion of non-ionic surfactant on gel hardness, solidification point and melting point

Nonionic Sodium Gel

Formulation Water (%) DPG (%)
surfactant stearate (%) hardness (N)

1 Reference without surfactant - 5 19 76 62.9

2 25% Triton DF16 5 19 51 141.5

3 25% Triton DF16 5 12 58 105.2

Tab. 3 Effect of the polar solvent on the hardness of the solid gel

poured into a mould. On cooling, a solid gel was formed. Solid gels with low hardness values may deform under normal
The composition is given in Table  1. manufacturing and shipping conditions. Solid gels containing
The addition of a functional non-ionic surfactant to the solid 25 to 60 wt% alcohol alkoxylates have been shown to result
gel serves to support the rinsing performance of the machine in higher gel hardness.
dishwashing detergent. However, the addition of the non-ion- The polar organic solvent DPG also influences the hard-
ic surfactant may affect the gel hardness. As shown in Table  2, ness of the solid gel. As shown in Table  3, replacing 25
the gel hardness was increased by the addition of the non-ionic wt% dipropylene glycol in the reference gel (Formulation
surfactant Triton DF-16. For example, the addition of 25 wt% 1) with the non-ionic surfactant Triton DF-16 (Formulation
Triton DF-16 instead of the DPG resulted in an increase in hard- 7) increased the gel hardness from 62.9 N to 141.5 N. The

12 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

 content
dishwashing detergent | Home Care

Parts from a water-soluble polymer film of PVOH. Both compo-

Ingredients
(Gew.-%) nents are in direct contact.
Sodium carbonate 24,8 For example, the single-dose format may contain 18 grams of
Alcohol alkoxylate 1,6 powder and 2 grams of solid gel.
Sodium sulphate 31,5
Sodium citrate 2,8 Reference:
Trilon M Granules SG 7,5 “Unit dose detergent composition”
Acrylate, homopolymer 6,5 Patent-No.:

Sodium silicate 3,9 WO 2018/089564

(US 2018/0127692)
Enzymes 2,9
Publication:
Sodium percarbonate 16,4 17.05.2018 (10.05.2018)
Dye 2,0 Applicant:
Henkel IP & Holding GmbH, Düsseldorf, Germany
Fragrances 0,1
contact
Tab. 4 Powdered cleaning composition for combination with a solid
gel composition in a water-soluble single-chamber container

modification of formulation 7 by increasing the amount Dr. Klaus Henning ✝

of dipropylene glycol (formulation 11) decreased the gel
hardness from 141.5 N to 105.2 N. However, the gel hard- Verlag für chemische Industrie
ness of formulation 11 was still higher than that of the H. Ziolkowsky GmbH
reference gel. Dorfstr. 40
An exemplary machine dishwashing detergent in single-dose 86470 Thannhausen | Germany
format is prepared by layering a solid powdered cleaning
composition (Table  4) and a solid gel composition in a wa- E-mail: [email protected]
ter-soluble single-chamber container (e.g. a sachet) made

10/22 | 148 | sofwjournal 13

 content
Personal Care | skin care

Development of a Cosmetic Ingredient to Restore Facial Balance,

Inspired by Aesthetic Procedures
Mola Gemma, Gonzàlez-Pons Eulàlia, Gálvez Jordi, Soley Albert, Almiñana Núria, Delgado Raquel

abstract

S urgical and non-surgical aesthetic medicine procedures have garnered interest in the past several years, with consumer inter-
est for treatments for facial asymmetry and sculpting growing. Morphological aspects of the face, like the symmetry of facial
proportions, can be attributed to the structural components within the dermal layer. While collagen and elastin play important
roles to provide structure to the skin and to maintain elasticity and firmness, boosting the production of ECM components may
not be sufficient to restore facial asymmetry. This leads to the possibility of a separate dermal component that is responsible
for the whole dermal skin architecture. Here we report how telocytes, a newly discovered skin cell type that maintains dermal
structure, as well as regulates stem cells and supports epidermal organization, can become damaged by cortisol. A new bio-
technological extract has been developed to protect telocytes from this effect. Further, it has been found to bring facial features
closer to the Phi number or Golden ratio, a mathematical expression used by cosmetic surgeons to represent harmony of facial
proportions. It has also been found to improve the symmetry of the chin contour, skin firmness, and luminosity, as well as reduce
wrinkles. By restoring the Phi ratio of the internal and external structures of the skin, the new biotechnological extract can mimic
the effect of aesthetic medicine procedures to restore facial harmony and balance.

Introduction The aim of this study was to firstly, determine how the TC
functionality may be impacted and secondly, how facial
Surgical and non-surgical aesthetic medicine procedures have asymmetry can be minimized with a new biotechnological
garnered interest in the past several years, with consumer inter- extract of a Bacillus sp. isolated from the Florida Keys, USA.
est for treatments for facial asymmetry and sculpting growing.
This trend has been largely driven by factors like the ground-
swell of young consumers who are taking a preventative ag- Methods and Results
ing approach, rise of video communications that have increase
anxiety and self-consciousness about facial appearance, and Successful isolation and identification of TCs
the increased normalization of cosmetic procedures. This trend from human skin biopsies
has been further catalysed by the rising awareness of chronic TCs are not a commercially available skin cell type so we have
psychological stress on the face, which has been recently re- developed a new protocol to isolate and culture TCs from hu-
ported to distort the symmetry of facial proportions [1]. man skin, based on previous work described by Li et al. with
Morphological aspects of the face, like the symmetry of facial cardiac TCs from rat [5]. This new protocol included a specific
proportions, can be attributed to the structural components step to eliminate fibroblasts from the cell culture to remove
within the dermal layer. While collagen and elastin play im- any morphologically similar cell types.
portant roles to provide structure to the skin and to maintain Isolated cells were visually characterized with a small cell body
elasticity and firmness, boosting the production of ECM com- and long moniliform telopodes (Figure  1). Further, TCs were
ponents may not be sufficient to restore facial asymmetry. confirmed by performing a triple immunocytochemistry step
This leads to the possibility of a separate dermal component to detect the three markers – CD34, PDGFRa and vimentin –
that is responsible for the whole dermal skin architecture. reported to be characteristic to TCs [6,7] (Figure  1).
In 2012, a new cell type was discovered in skin called telo-
cytes (TCs) meaning “cells bearing long prolongations” [2]. Cortisol can reduce the number of TCs
Indeed, these long, thin, moniliform, and occasionally con- and their exosome release
voluted prolongations make TCs different from other stromal Using TCs isolated following the newly established protocol,
cell types such as fibroblasts, fibrocytes, or fibroblast-like cells. we studied the effect of stress by adding cortisol to the cell cul-
Among other roles, TCs are thought to provide mechanical ture to mimic psychological stress conditions. This is the first re-
support throughout the tissue [3, 4] and can also participate ported study looking at the role of psychological stress in TCs.
in the regulation of stem cells via the release of extracellular Cell cultures of skin TCs were treated with cortisol at different con-
vesicles, also known as exosomes. centrations (0.4 mM, 0.6 mM, 0.8 mM and 1 mM) (Figure  2).

14 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

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Personal Care | skin care |

Fig. 1 Triple immunofluorescent staining for CD34 / PDFGRa/vimentin of skin TCs in primary culture.

We found that cortisol can have a negative impact on TCs: it facial features for any given individual [8, 9]. This method
can significantly reduce the number of TCs, showing a max- relies on the Golden Ratio, which is represented by the
imum reduction in TCs number at 1 mM. The highest tested
concentration of cortisol (1 mM) was selected to test if the
reduction of TCs number could be recovered using the Ba-
cillus Ferment. As shown in Figure  3, results demonstrated
that the Bacillus Ferment can prevent this cortisol-induced
damage to TCs.
To check if cortisol could alter exosome production in TCs,
the number and size of particles isolated from TCs superna-
tants was quantified by Nanoparticles Tracking Analysis. With
cortisol treatment, exosome release was reduced to levels be- Fig. 2 Telocyte number, as quantified as the mean percentage of
low detection. But, treatment with Bacillus Ferment helped to double positive cells (CD34 / PDGFRa) in TCs culture after cortisol
treatment compared to control condition (CTR). Statistical signifi-
prevent such a reduction in exosome number, suggesting that
cance: ****p < 0.0001 using unpaired t test.
with the treatment TCs were still able to communicate with
their neighbouring cells, including stem cells.

Analysis of facial harmony

in women suffering psychological stress
Seventy-one female volunteers, aged between 35 and 50
years old, were recruited for 2 clinical studies. Volunteers
included in the study met specific criteria of psychological
stress, which was assessed by measuring salivary cortisol
levels. Two different samples of saliva were collected for
each volunteer during the same day, at 8 AM and 6 PM.
Physiological cortisol reference levels for the morning mea-
surement are 0.12-1.47 µL / 100 mL and for the afternoon
measurement are 0.050.15 µL / 100 mL. If the cortisol level
detected was higher than the corresponding levels of refer-
ence, the volunteer was considered to be experiencing psy- Fig. 3 A) Double immunofluorescent staining for CD34/PDFGRa of skin
TCs in primary culture in control condition (CTR), treated with cortisol
chological stress.
and treated with cortisol and Bacillus Ferment. B) Mean of percentage
According to recent evidence, the symmetry of facial pro-
of double positive cells in TCs culture after cortisol treatment and Bacil-
portions can be altered by psychological stress [1]. To quan-
lus Ferment treatment compared to control condition (CTR). Statistical
tify facial symmetry, we were inspired by an approach used significance: ***p < 0.001 calculated using unpaired t test.
among aesthetic surgeons to map the ideal harmony of

16 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

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 content
Personal Care | skin care

Greek letter Phi or numerically as 1.618. To measure the Phi (R0) by cutometry. After 28 days, there was an improvement
ratio of panelists experiencing psychological stress, macro- in the global skin firming effect. Further, a comparison of the
photographs of the face were taken. The vertical distance difference in skin firmness between the left and right sides of
(in pixels) between the eye corner point to mouth corner the face showed an increase in the symmetry of skin firmness
by 5.4% with the cream containing the Bacillus Ferment.
Next, the total chin lifting effect of the whole face was ana-
lyzed by image analysis software. There was a statistically sig-
nificant improvement in the chin lifting effect with a decrease
in the oval contour area of up to 1.5% in 28 days. In addition,
the uniformity of the left-right symmetry of the chin contour
was examined and it was found that the symmetry of the oval
contour lifting increased by 6.3% after 28 days of treatment
with the Bacillus Ferment extract.
Finally, whole face skin luminosity was assessed from macro-
Fig. 4 Representation of vertical lines used to measure the deviation
scopic images and processed with software to generate color-
of their ratio from the Phi number.
map images. With treatment with the Bacillus Ferment, there
was an increase in skin luminosity of 13.91% after 14 days of
point and mouth corner point to chin point were measured product application. Further, the uniformity of skin luminosity
(Figure  4). Next, the ratio between these distances was across the left and right sides of the face was calculated. A
calculated and subtracted from the Phi
value to obtain the difference from Phi
value for each volunteer (Equation  1).
To visualize how far the ratio value was
from Phi number the mean difference
from the Phi number was subtracted
from Phi value and represented as dis-
placement from Phi number at each time
point and treatment (Equation  2).
Among the group at applied a cream
containing 2% of Bacillus Ferment, facial
proportions approached the Phi number
over 28 days. Indeed, at day 28, the Phi
ratio was 25% closer to the Phi ratio.
On the other hand, among the placebo
group, there was no change in the Phi
ratio over the same period. Further, at 28
days the difference between the active
treatment group and the placebo group
was statistically significant (Figure  5).
This demonstrated that the Bacillus Fer-
ment extract could enhance the facial
proportions to reveal a more harmonious
facial appearance.

Equation  1: where Lx corre-

sponds to the distance from eye corner to
lip corner and Ly to the distance from lip
corner to chin.
–
Equation  2: where Xtx corresponds
to the mean difference from Phi value.

Further restoring facial harmony

by improving symmetry of facial Fig. 5 A) Displacement from Phi value obtained before and after 14 and 28 days of product
features application in the face. Statistical significance: * p < 0.05 calculated using unpaired t test.
B) After 28 d of treatment with the Bacillus Ferment, facial proportions were brought closer
Uniformity of skin firmness was assessed
to the Phi ratio, revealing a more harmonious facial appearance.
by measuring the maximal deformation

18 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

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 content
Personal Care | skin care

reduction in the difference of the skin luminosity between the thetic medicine procedures, we have developed a novel bio-
left and right cheeks was observed over the same time peri- technological active ingredient, Telophi™ biotech ingredient
od, demonstrating a more uniform luminosity across the face that can revert this damage that can improve facial harmonic
after using the cream containing Bacillus Ferment. proportions, helping the skin approach the Phi ratio and can
improve firmness, oval contour, and luminosity in a homo-
geneous and symmetrical manner. Telophi™ biotech ingre-
Discussion dient is ideal for daily facial skincare products that protect
the skin from the damage caused by psychological stress and
As found in the results of this study, we have developed a for dermo-inspired cosmetic formulations that improve skin
new protocol to successfully isolate and culture TCs from hu- appearance.
man skin. Isolated cells showed the typical morphology for
this cell type with small cell body and several cellular prolon- References:
gations described by others [3, 4]. As stated by Ceafalan et al. [1] Egawa M, Haze S, Gozu Y, Hosoi J, Onodera T, Tojo Y, Katsuyama M, Hara Y,
[3] the main difficulty in identifying TCs with light microscopy Katagiri C, Inoue N, Furukawa S, Suzuki G, Evaluation of psychological stress in
confined environments using salivary, skin, and facial image parameters. Sci Rep.
is that they are morphologically similar to different types of so 2018; 8:8264.
called ‘fibroblast-like’ or ‘dendritic-like’ stromal cells. There- [2] Rusu MC, Mirancea N, Manoiu VS, Valcu M, Nicolescu MI, Paduraru D, Skin
fore, we used triple immunostaining with specific markers to telocytes. Ann Anat. 2012; 194:359-367.

further confirm the identification of TCs [5, 6]. [3] Ceafalan L, Gherghiceanu M, Popescu LM, Simionescu O, Telocytes in human
skin-are they involved in skin regeneration? J Cell Mol Med. 2012; 16(7):1405-
Further, in this study a high dose of cortisol, the primary stress
1420.
hormone, has been used for the first time on skin TCs cul-
[4] El Maadawi ZM, A tale of two Cells: Telocyte and Stem Cell Unique Relationship.
tures to mimic stress conditions. Our observations support the Adv Exp Med Biol. 2016; 913:359-376.
notion that stress can have a negative impact on skin cells [5] Li YY, Zhang S, Li YG, Wang Y, Isolation, culture, purification and ultrastructural
including TCs. This reveals a new mechanism by which long- investigation of cardiac telocytes. Mol Med Rep. 2016; 14:1194-1200.

term chronic stress can accelerate the aging process and can [6] Manole CG, Simionescu O, The Cutaneous Telocytes. Adv Exp Med Biol. 2016;
913:303-323.
lead to premature skin aging. The newly developed Bacillus
Ferment showed to prevent cortisol-induced damage to pro- [7] Bashour M, History and current concepts in the analysis of facial attractiveness.
Plast Reconstr Surg. 2006; 118(3):741-756.
tect reductions in TC number and communication through
[8] Schmid K, Marx D, Samal A, Computation of a face Attractiveness Index Based
exosome release. on Neoclassical cannons, symmetry, and golden ratios. Pattern Recognit. 2008;
We have also developed a new system to quantify facial har- 41:2710-2717.
mony that was inspired by aesthetic surgeons who map the [9] Wang L, Song D, Wei C, Chen C, Yang Y, Deng X, Gu J, Telocytes inhibited inflam-
matory factor expression and enhanced cell migration in LPS‑induced skin wound
ideal harmony of facial features for any given individual using
healing models in vitro and in vivo. J Transl Med. 2020; 18(1):60.
the Phi ratio. According to Milutinovic et al. [10] the beauty of
[10] Milutinovic J, Zelic K, Nedeljkovic N, Evaluation of Facial Beauty Using Anthropo-
a person’s face is determined by the harmony of proportions metric Proportions. Sci World J. 2014; 2014:428250.
and symmetry, and ideal proportions are directly related to [11] Anand S, Tripathi S, Chopra A, Khaneja K, Agarwal S, Vertical and horizontal
Phi proportions. Other authors showed the relation of this proportions of the face and their correlation to phi among Indians in Moradabad
population: A survey. J Indian Prosthodont Soc. 2015; 15(2):125-30.
divine proportions to beauty in several populations [11,12].
The aim of the clinical trial done in this investigation was to
evaluate if a treatment able to protect TCs and their function
could counteract the deviation of Phi proportions observed
in volunteers under psychological stress. A deviation of facial
proportions from the Phi number in volunteers suffering psy-
chological stress was determined. The ratio was 25% closer authors
to Phi after 28 days treatment with a cream containing 2%
of the Bacillus Ferment, revealing a more harmonic facial ap-
Mola Gemma, Gonzàlez-Pons Eulàlia, Gálvez Jordi,
pearance. Facial skin firmness, oval contour, and luminosity
Soley Albert, Almiñana Núria, Delgado Raquel
also increased and became more homogeneous after 28 days
Lipotec SAU | Isaac Peral 17 (Pol. Industrial Camí Ral) |
of product application.
08850 Gavà (Barcelona) | Spain

Corresponding author:
Conclusion Gemma Mola
LIPOTEC SAU (The Lubrizol Corporation) |
We have identified a new cellular target that is important for Isaac Peral 17 (Pol. Industrial Camí Ral) | 08850 Gavà (Barcelona) | Spain
facial harmony and balance, which may become damaged [email protected]
by prolonged periods of psychological stress. Inspired by aes-

20 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

 content
Personal Care | skin care

Astaxanthin – the Red Diamond Amongst Antioxidants

A Powerful Ingredient to Support a Radiant and Healthy Skin
Elisabeth Willeit

abstract

T he human skin is a complex and multifunctional organ that protects the body from external physical, chemical and infecti-
ous attacks. It is not only a barrier shielding of the human body from extrinsic factors. It also functions as a sensory organ,
prevents the organism from losing water through evaporation and is the site of immunological defence mechanisms and bio-
synthesis (e.g. of vitamin D3).
In order to fulfil its various functions, a good skin health is important. An essential indicator of the skin’s health condition is
its visible appearance. A firm, youthful-looking skin with a radiant complexion and natural warm glow is not only a desirable
feature of beauty, but also indicates a good state of health.
However, intrinsic and extrinsic influences like lack of sleep, a poor nutrition, stress, air pollution or solar radiation can cause the
skin‘s radiance to fade. Both factors promote an overproduction of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and lead to a state of oxidative
stress, a major cause of skin damage and premature skin ageing [1].

Oxidative Stress and its Influence on Skin Health dermal layers, including the destruction of collagen and other
molecules that are vital for skin elasticity. It also impairs the
Typical characteristics of healthy young skin are a fresh com- natural renewal and repair process of the skin and its abili-
plexion with a warm and radiant glow, as well as a firm, ty to perform its various functions [2]. Exposure to harmful
smooth and even texture without imperfections (Figure  1). oxidation-promoting environmental conditions (e.g. intense
Whenever the skin is exposed to intrinsic and external stress- UV-radiation, air pollution, blue light) is increasing in the 21st
ors, changes occur in certain molecules in the body that lead century and promotes chronic low-level inflammation in the
to the formation of various highly reactive oxygen species skin. This enhances a gradual erosion of the skin’s dermal
(ROS) and free radicals, causing oxidative imbalance. cell structure and functionality, making it more sensitive and
susceptible to oxidative damage and accelerates premature
skin-ageing processes, also known as inflammageing. Dermal
tissue structure and functionality also changes naturally with
rising age and with it its ability to protect itself from oxida-
tive stress and to perform its various functions in the best
way. Damaged or aged skin is characterised by skin dryness,
a sallow complexion, deep wrinkles, pigmentation, sagging,
increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and epidermal
barrier disorders [3].

Fig. 1 Natural visible appearance is an indicator for the skins state of

health.

When free radicals attack cell membranes, they activate en-

zymes that lead to cell death, inflammatory responses and
changes in skin appearance (Figure  2). They can also in-
terfere with DNA and trigger a series of damaging cellular
processes and cell mutations by damaging DNA’s structure.
Fig. 2 Free radicals attack cell membranes and cause oxidative stress.
This leads to a chain reaction causing various changes in the

22 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

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 content
Personal Care | skin care |

In order to maintain the skin’s functionality and protect it

from reactive oxygen species and associated degenerative Elisabeth Willeit, BA, MSc.,
pathways, various natural and synthetic compounds can be is Product Development Manager with a focus on Regulatory
Affairs at BDI-BioLife Science. In addition to her degree in food
used in cosmetic formulations. Antioxidants are very common product and process development at FH Joanneum, she has pro-
substances often used in cosmetic products to maintain over- fessional experience in the food industry. At BDI-BioLife Science
all skin health and a youthful, radiant appearance [2]. she works as an interface between sales, quality management and
product development and deals with regulatory affair issues in the
food supplement, cosmetics and animal feed sectors.

Antioxidants against Skin Deterioration Contact:

[email protected]

Antioxidants are a group of substances that counteract oxi-

dative skin deterioration by neutralising reactive molecules.
Healthy skin naturally produces or absorbs antioxidants in In vitro and in vivo it was shown that the topical application
dermal tissue to prevent radical damage and maintain oxi- of astaxanthin provides excellent biological cell protection
dative balance in the cells. Prolonged exposure to stressful against inflammatory reactions. Therefore, the use of astax-
conditions overwhelm this innate defence system through anthin in cosmetic formulations could prevent inflamma-
overproduction of free radicals, leading to a state of oxida- tion-related degradation of skin structure and later stages of
tive imbalance. The incorporation of antioxidants into top- skin disease [6, 7].
ical skin care products is widespread to provide additional BDI-BioLife Science has developed a special COSMOS-cer-
protection and supplement the body’s innate defence to tified and NATRUE approved active ingredient to bring this
promote healthy skin and prevent premature ageing. First, unique antioxidant into cosmetic formulations. AstaCos®
they can lower oxidative stress levels and secondly some of OL50 is a vegan, animal testing free ingredient, derived from
them are able to impact specific biological mechanisms en- microalga Haematococcus pluvialis. It has already shown its
hancing the skin protection and repair. [2]. potential to neutralise free radicals in several in vivo and in
When selecting antioxidants for cosmetic formulations, it vitro studies and has proven to be an efficient active ingredi-
should be considered that there are numerous antioxidants ent for anti-ageing products. With the in-house astaxanthin
that may differ in their effectiveness. The strength of var- competence centre, BDI-BioLife Science supports with exper-
ious antioxidants in neutralising singlet oxygen was deter- tise in processing and formulating AstaCos® OL50, proven by
mined by Nishida et al. The antioxidants tested in this study various frame formulations and scientific dossiers.
were natural astaxanthin, coenzyme Q10, vitamins C and
E, and many other known antioxidants. The results showed
that astaxanthin is 6,000 times stronger than vitamin C, A Powerful Red Diamond For a Healthy Radiant Complexion
790 times more powerful than CoQ10 and 110 times stron-
ger than vitamin E in neutralising singlet oxygen. Therefore Skin glow and radiance are mainly influenced by the reflectivity
astaxanthin is also known as the red diamond amongst an- of epidermal skin cells. Intact skin with a homogenous smooth
tioxidants [4]. and even texture reflects light, while damaged dry skin cells
with an oxidised lipid membrane and a rough uneven texture
absorb or scatter light. Oxidative stress impairs the natural re-
Astaxanthin – the Red Diamond amongst Antioxidants newal and repair process of the skin, resulting in an inhomoge-
neous complexion that may appear dull, tired and rough.
Astaxanthin, a naturally occurring reddish pigment derived
from microalgae Haematococcus pluvialis (Figure  3), is con-
sidered to be the most powerful natural antioxidant without
any pro-oxidative nature, highly efficient at counteracting re-
active oxygen species. Beside its antioxidative potential it has
great anti-inflammatory properties [1].
In several human studies astaxanthin has shown to improve
overall skin health and counteract skin ageing by providing
comprehensive protection against oxidative degradation. Pos-
itive effects were shown in particular with regard to elasticity,
moisture retention, age spots, wrinkle depth and skin texture.
Astaxanthin improves skin elasticity by strengthening the col-
lagen layer and revitalises stressed skin by getting rid of free
radicals in all dermal layers. It is able to restore skin’s natu-
ral antioxidant balance and thereby protect cell membranes
Fig. 3 Astaxanthin-rich cells of microalgae Haematococcus pluvialis
against lipid peroxidation [5].

24 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

 

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Personal Care | skin care

In an in vivo study with 22 female subjects aged between 30 After applying the astaxanthin-rich ingredient twice a day for
and 50, the radiance and glow effect of astaxanthin on hu- nearly a month a significant improvement (p < 0.01) of skin
man skin was evaluated. For this test, a dosage of 4-5 drops homogeneity was found (Figure  4). Furthermore, skin glow
of 0.05% AstaCos® OL50 diluted in jojoba oil was used in improved significantly (p < 0.01) 30 minutes after application
the face and neckline for 28 days. No other products were (Figure  5). A dermatological control on each person at day 0
applied to the treated area during the testing period and 24 and 28 showed no intolerance reactions.
hours before. In addition, a self-assessment questionnaire was completed
Measurements were taken in the laboratory at the beginning of at the end of the test phase to evaluate the subjective sensa-
the study before the first treatment, 30 minutes after the first tion, efficacy and cosmetic quality of the product (Figure 6).
application of the product and on day 28 after the test product In the self-assessment questionnaire, over 90% of partici-
was applied twice daily to the tested surface. The brighten- pants stated their skin was softer and more hydrated at the
ing / radiance effect was quantified by analysis of photos taken end of the test period and 82% affirmed that the product
with the ColorFace® acquisition system (Newtone), which is a provides a healthy glow effect upon application. In addition,
standardised system for taking photos of the entire face. more than 70% of the participating test subjects found that
the treated skin looks revitalised and radiant. They stated that
the glow effect lasted throughout the day and that they were
convinced of the effectiveness of the test product [8].
In another in vivo efficacy study, the effectiveness of astax-
anthin was confirmed in an application test. A total of 25
female and male volunteers aged between 35 and 72 years
(Ø 52.9 years; skin profile sensitive to atopic skin) participated
in this in vivo study and were supervised and monitored by a
dermatologist. All volunteers were instructed to use a serum
containing 0.05% of the active ingredient for facial care once
a day over a period of four weeks. They were instructed to
use only the test product and to maintain their usual skincare
routine. After applying the test substance for 4 weeks, more
than 80% of the respondents confirmed a good moisturising
effect. The subjects reported a significant reduction of wrin-
kles and lines as well as a reduction in age spots and pigmen-
tation. Furthermore, they described their skin as firmer after
having completion of the study [9,10].

Conclusion
Numerous research studies have led to the conclusion that as-
taxanthin can improve overall health of the skin and counter-
act skin ageing, inflammatory processes and the degradation
of its functionality. Due to its multiple properties, astaxanthin
acts exactly where it is needed and penetrates deep into the
skin layers. In particular its potential to provide biological cell
protection can be highlighted. Astaxanthin from microalgae
Fig. 4 Illustration of skin homogeneity analysis ColorFace® before is a perfect choice for skincare products as it protects our skin
(left) and 30 minutes after application (right) on D0.
from negative environmental influences, helping to maintain
healthy, well-functioning skin with a youthful and glowing
complexion.

About BDI-BioLife Science

BDI-BioLife Science is a specialist in the development of in-
novative technologies for the production of high quality al-
gae ingredients for the life science industry. In the production
plant located at Ökopark Hartberg, Austria, BDI-BioLife Sci-
ence produces high-quality natural astaxanthin tailor-made
Fig. 5 Illustration of skin glow analysis ColorFace® before (left) and
for the cosmetics (AstaCos®) and nutritional supplements
30 minutes after application (right) on D0.
(AstaFit®) industries using its closed algae cultivation process.

26 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

 content
skin care | Personal Care

[5]      K.N. Singh, S. Patil, and H. Barkate, “Protective effects of astaxanthin

on skin:
Recent scientific evidence, possible mechanisms, and potential indica-
tions,” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, vol. 19, no. 1. Blackwell Publish-
ing Ltd, pp. 22-27, Jan. 01, 2020, doi: 10.1111/jocd.13019.
[6]      D. Kopera and J. Kim, “UV-protective Properties of Topical of Astax-
anthin Half side Controlled Pilot Study,” International Journal of Clinical &
Experimental Dermatology, vol. 6, no. 1, pp. 13-16, 2021.
[7]      D.G.-R. institute for reliable Results, “Physiological/Histological in vitro
Expertise,” 2021.
[8]      BIO-EC – Centre de Recherches Biologiques et d’Expérimentations
Cutanées, “Radiance and Glow on a Panel of Volunteers: Report of the
Study,” 2022.
[9]      D.G.K. Institute for E. D. at Witten/Herdecke, “REPORT über einen
Anwendungs- und Verträglichkeitstest des Prüfpräparates,“ 2021
[10]      T. Seki, H. Sueki, H. Kohno, and K. Suganuma, “Effects of astaxan-
thin from Haematococcus pluvialis on human skin,” Fragr. J., pp. 98-103,
2001
Fig. 6 Evaluation of the effectiveness of the product after 28 days of application.

References:
[1]      D.R. Bickers and M. Athar, “Oxidative stress in the pathogenesis of skin disease,”
J. Invest. Dermatol., vol. 126, no. 12, pp. 2565–2575, 2006, doi: 10.1038/ author
sj.jid.5700340.
[2]      S. Davinelli, M.E. Nielsen, and G. Scapagnini, “Astaxanthin in skin health, repair,
and disease: A comprehensive review,” Nutrients, vol. 10, no. 4, pp. 1-12, 2018, Elisabeth Willeit
doi: 10.3390/nu10040522. [email protected]
[3]      S.M. Pilkington, S. Bulfone-Paus, C.E.M. Griffiths, and R.E.B. Watson, “Inflammag-
ing and the Skin,” J. Invest. Dermatol., vol. 141, no. 4, pp. 1087-1095, 2021, doi:
10.1016/j.jid.2020.11.006. BDI-BioLife Science | Parkring 18 | 8074 Raaba-Grambach | Austria
[4]      Y. Nishida, E. Yamashita, and W. Miki, “Quenching Activities of Common Hydro- +43 3332 32042 10, [email protected]
philic and Lipophilic Antioxidants against Singlet Oxygen Using Chemilumines- https://www.bdi-biolifescience.com
cence Detection System,” Carotenoid Sci., vol. 11, no. January 2007, pp. 16-20,
2007.

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 content
Personal Care | anti aging

A Novel Strategy for Holistic Skin Rejuvenation

Julia Baumann, Franziska Wandrey, Fred Zülli

abstract

A revolutionary anti-aging concept, senolytics, has entered the medical world. Demonstrating remarkable results in early
trials, senolytics can provoke rejuvenation in various tissues by specifically eliminating senescent cells without harming healthy
cells. This concept has now been adapted for the cosmetic industry, by targeting and eliminating senescent fibroblasts in aged
and photo-aged skin. To optimally complete skin rejuvenation however, the eliminated fibroblasts must be replaced with new
cells – a feat that can be achieved by the activation of dermal stem cells. This revolutionary idea has been realized with the
innovative ingredient concept SenoCellTecTM.

Introduction cial for the vitality of skin stem cells [4]. Thus, to complement the
senolytic activity of the alpine rose extract in skin rejuvenation,
The formation and accumulation of senescent cells is one of we studied the effect of an apple stem cell extract (Malus Do-
the critical hallmarks of aging [1]. Senescent cells are also called mestica) in stimulating dermal progenitor cells to regenerate the
“zombie cells” since they no longer divide but are also far from dermis and the extracellular matrix. In a further experiment we
being dead. As such, senescent cells continue to secrete signal- also investigated the dermal-epidermal interactions induced by
ing molecules that promote inflammation and further affect this apple stem cell extract. With a grape stem cell extract (Vitis
surrounding cells, inducing them to become senescent as well. Vinifera) the protection of epidermal progenitor cells could be
Intriguingly, a recent publication by Franco et al. [2] suggests achieved. Thus, the application of these plant stem cell extracts
that senescent cells in the skin may even contribute to the gen- together with the senolytic compounds forms the powerful Se-
eral aging of the body. This theory underlines the importance noCellTecTM concept for a deep rejuvenation of the skin.
of incorporating senolytic ingredients in cosmetics.
The senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP), char-
acterized by the secretion of molecules such as inflammatory Materials and Methods
cytokines and proteases, results in the presence of high levels
of the typical aging markers in the skin. In younger tissues, Senolytic assay
senescent cells are usually cleared by the immune system. In To determine the senolytic potential of the alpine rose extract,
aged skin, however, with a reduced immune function, this normal human dermal fibroblasts were treated with 500 µM
clearance is impaired, and the senescent cells accumulate. H2O2 for two hours to induce oxidative stress-induced prema-
The new concept “senolytics” helps to clear tissues like the ture senescence. After three days of culture in normal media
skin from such senescent cells. In this approach it is important (allowing the senescent phenotype to be fully established in a
that the senolytic substance specifically eliminates only the subpopulation of the cells) the mixed culture of both senescent
senescent cells without harming the healthy dividing cells. and non-senescent cells was treated for 48 hours with either
Although senolytics remains a brand-new life science topic, 1% alpine rose extract or Navitoclax, a known senolytic drug,
the term senolytics was coined in 2015 [3], more than 700 or left untreated as a control. Following fixation with 2% form-
scientific articles investigating the senolytic activity of numer- aldehyde and 0.2% glutaraldehyde, cell nuclei were stained
ous compounds have already been published. In our research with DAPI to determine the relative total cell number. A senes-
collaboration between Mibelle Biochemistry and Helvecos, cence-associated β-galactosidase (β-gal) activity assay was per-
we have discovered an extract of alpine rose leaves (Rhodo- formed as described by Zhao et al. and a total of 400 cells were
dendron Ferrugineum) to exhibit senolytic activities. Based on counted [5]. Treatment efficacy was determined by calculating
the analysis of compounds in this extract we could identify the percentage of β-gal-positive (senescent) cells compared to
molecules that are potentially driving this activity. the total cell number.
A further hallmark of aging is the depletion of stem cells [1].
Therefore, stimulating and replenishing stem cells provides an- Chemical profiling of alpine rose leaf extract by CARAMEL
other potent strategy to combat skin aging. We have previously Potential senolytic molecules in the alpine rose extract were
shown that the compounds found in plant stem cells are benefi- identified by chemical profiling (CARAMEL analysis, per-

28 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

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 content
Personal Care | anti aging |

formed by NatExplore SAS) [6]. The extract samples were Clinical Study: Effects of apple stem cell extract
evaporated under vacuum for 5 h (at 50 °C, 5 mbar) before on skin firmness
being fractionated by Centrifugal Partition Chromatography The impact of the apple stem cell extract on skin firmness
(CPC, instrument TCPE300®). The obtained fractions were was investigated in vivo, in a randomized, placebo-controlled
then analyzed by carbon-13 nuclear magnetic resonance clinical study was performed with 21 volunteers (aged 35 to
(13C NMR, instrument Bruker Avance AVIII-600) and the me- 56, half-side face study). The volunteers applied both a cream
tabolites contained in the extract identified. To further con- containing 2% apple stem cell extract or a placebo cream
firm the chemical structures of the identified metabolites the twice daily on a respective half side of the face. After 28 days,
extracts were also analyzed by Liquid Chromatography Mass skin firmness was measured using an Indentometer® (IDM
Spectrometry (LC-MS). 800, Courage+Khazaka).

Activation of dermal Sox2 positive progenitor cells

To determine the effect of the extracts on stem cell activity, Results and Discussion
a sphere forming assay was performed. Primary dermal papil-
la cells were isolated from the dermis of hairy skin obtained A novel senolytic active from Swiss alpine rose leaves
from cosmetic surgery. After the third passage, cells were Fundamental for a senolytic compound is its ability to elimi-
treated with 0.1% apple stem cell extract and from passage nate senescent cells, whilst not affecting healthy non-senes-
7 sphere forming assays were performed. After 24 h, repre- cent cells. In our senolytic assay we could generate a fibro-
sentative primary spheres were collected, and the activation blast culture with 28% senescent cells. The treatment with
of dermal progenitor cells evaluated via immunostaining for the alpine rose leaf extract could significantly reduce the
the stem cell marker Sox2. The number of secondary and number of these cells to about 10%, whereas the healthy
tertiary spheres formed were determined after three and six fibroblasts were mostly not affected at all (Figure  1). This ef-
weeks of cultivation, respectively. fect is comparable to the treatment with the known senolytic
drug Navitoclax, which reduced the percentage of senescent
Dermal – epidermal communication cells to 12%. Thus, we have been able to demonstrate a very
in a full thickness skin model selective senolytic activity of this extract.
The effect of apple stem cell extract on the development of a With our analytical analysis we aimed to establish the phy-
rich dermal matrix was investigated using a full skin model. Pri- tochemical profile of the alpine rose leaf extract. Indeed,
mary human dermal fibroblasts were grown in submerged cul- we could identify numerous interesting molecules [6].
ture in the presence of 0.1% of the stem cell extract. After 14 Specifically, we found taxifolin and farrerol in the extract
days, primary human epidermal keratinocyte progenitors were (Figure  2). These molecules are structurally very similar to
seeded onto the dermal fibroblast model and grown for three fisetin (Figure  2), a well-known and potent senolytic com-
days before being lifted to the air-liquid interface, followed by pound [7]. The natural flavonoid taxifolin causes cell cycle
a further 12 days culture. The full thickness skin models were arrest by activating Wnt / beta-catenin signaling. This results
then sectioned, and dermal-epidermal organization visualized
by histological analysis (hematoxylin and eosin tissue staining).
Protection of epidermal stem cells by grape stem cell extract
To evaluate the protective effects of grape stem cell extract
against UV irradiation, the colony forming efficiency (CFE)
was determined by means of a colony assay. Primary human
keratinocyte progenitor cells were incubated with 0.625%
of extract before being exposed to UV-light for 10 min at
450 kJ / m2 (instrument Suntest CPS+). The number of colo-
nies formed (parameter for active progenitor cells) was calcu-
lated and compared to unirradiated and untreated controls.

Clinical study: Effects of alpine rose leaf extract

on skin redness
To test the senolytic activity of alpine rose extract in vivo, a
randomized, placebo-controlled clinical study was performed.
44 female volunteers aged 40 to 65 years, with dull com-
plexion and cheek redness were included in the study. After Fig. 1 Senolytic Activity of Alpine Rose Extract. Alpine rose extract-
applying a cream with 2% alpine rose extract or a placebo ed tested at 1% significantly reduced the number of senescent fi-
broblasts from 28.1% to 10.1%, whilst the healthy cells remained
cream twice daily on the whole face for 14 days, changes in
unaffected. The effect is comparable to treatment with the known
skin redness were measured with a portable spectrophotom-
senolytic drug Navitoclax.
eter (CM-700d, Konica Minolta).

30 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

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anti aging | Personal Care

positive dermal progenitor cells in a sphere forming assay.

Further, the formation of secondary and tertiary spheres (in-
dicative of stem-cell like activity) could be increased com-
pared to the controls by 38% and 24% respectively (data
not shown).
The treatment of dermal cells with the apple stem cell ex-
tract also had an impact on the formation of the epidermal
structures and underlying dermal matrix in a full-thickness
skin model. Histological sections of skin models showed that
the treatment resulted in an improved columnar morphology
of the basal keratinocyte layer, with an abundant underlying
dermal extracellular matrix (Figure  3a). Further, treatment
with apple stem cell extract led to an increased dermal thick-
ness by 27% (Figure  3b).
Fig. 2 Chemical Profiling and Identification of Senolytic Molecules. Epidermal progenitor cells are important cells in the basal
Chemical profiling by CARAMEL identified farrerol and taxifolin in layer of the epidermis. They initiate the complete regener-
the alpine rose extract. These molecules demonstrate a high struc-
ation of the epidermis every three weeks and are therefore
tural similarity to fisetin, a well-known senolytic active.
present in the upper layer of the skin. This localization how-
ever makes them also very susceptible to UV irradiation. In
in tumor regression and offers a general senolytic activity [8]. our studies, we found that a grape stem cell extract was
Also, farrerol exhibits senolytic functions by reducing the ex- able to maintain the vitality of the epidermal progenitor
pression of Bcl-2 [9]. Upregulated Bcl-2 is one anti-apoptotic cells, and further stimulate their colony forming efficacy, de-
factor defining senescent cells’ ability to be retained in the spite UV irradiation (Figure  4). In conclusion, the stem cell
tissue, thus inhibiting Bcl-2 is a mode of senolytic action [10]. extracts not only have activating but also protective effects
The combined presence of both taxifolin and farrerol thereby on skin progenitor cells.
explains the senolytic activity of the Swiss alpine rose leaf ex-
tract, highlighting it as a novel senolytic derived from natural Clinically proven efficacy of the natural plant extracts
sources. To verify the observed in vitro results, we conducted two
placebo-controlled clinical trials to study the impact of our
Holistic rejuvenation treatment: actives on senolytic activity and skin stem cell stimulation. Se-
Activating dermal progenitor cells nescent fibroblasts are characterized by the senescence-asso-
The activation of dermal progenitor cells by plant stem cell ciated secretory phenotype (SASP) resulting in a chronic skin
extracts can support the replacement of eliminated senes- inflammation. In our study volunteers applying the alpine rose
cent fibroblasts after a senolytic treatment. In this premise, leave extract in a cream demonstrated a statistically signif-
we studied the famous apple stem cells, with proven results icant reduction in skin redness (an indicator of skin inflam-
on the vitalization of epidermal stem cells [11], on their im- mation) by 8.4% after only 14 days of treatment (Figure  5).
pact on dermal stem cell activation. We found that the apple The benefits of the apple stem cell extract on the activation
stem cell extract was able to activate Sox2 (stem cell marker) of dermal progenitor cells were evaluated in another clini-

Fig. 3 Improved Dermal-Epidermal Organization with Apple Stem Cell Extract. (a) Histological sections of the full skin model analysed by H&E
staining demonstrated and improved epidermis formation, with an abundant underlying dermal extracellular matrix when cells were treated with
apple stem cell extract. (b) Treatment with apple stem cell extract further increased the dermal thickness by 27% compared to controls.

10/22 | 148 | sofwjournal 31

 content
Personal Care | anti aging

nescent fibroblasts in the skin without harming healthy cells

is also a very attractive strategy for cosmetics. In our studies,
we have shown that an extract of alpine rose leaves exerts an
excellent senolytic activity, comparable to established senolyt-
ic drugs. To further develop this anti-aging strategy, we have
developed SenoCellTecTM, an active ingredient concept built
on the idea of removing senescent cells from the skin, and
then in turn vitalizing and protecting the skin stem cells to
boost the rejuvenation process. By combining the use of the
senolytic alpine rose extract and the activating and vitalizing
stem cell extracts, this “clear and fill” concept provides a new
and revolutionary concept for holistic skin rejuvenation, with
promising treatment options in the very near future.

References:
Fig. 4 Protective Effect of Grape Stem Cell Extract against UV Irradia- [1] Lopez-Otin C, Blasco MA, Partridge L, Serrano M, Kroemer G., The hallmarks of
tion. Treatment with 0.625% grape stem cell extract was able to main- aging. Cell. 2013;153(6):1194-217.
tain the vitality of the epidermal progenitor cells and stimulate their [2] Franco AC, Aveleira C, Cavadas C., Skin senescence: mechanisms and impact on
colony forming efficacy, despite UV irradiation (450 kJ/m2, 10 min). whole-body aging. Trends Mol Med. 2022;28(2):97-109.
[3] Zhu Y, Tchkonia T, Pirtskhalava T, Gower AC, Ding H, Giorgadze N, et al., The
Achilles’ heel of senescent cells: from transcriptome to senolytic drugs. Aging
Cell. 2015;14(4):644-58.
cal study. Treatment with the extract resulted in a statistically
significant improvement of the skin firmness after 28 days [4] Schmid D, Zülli, F., Use of Plant Cell Cultures for a Sustainable Production of
Innovative Ingredients. SOFW. 2012.
compared to placebo (data not shown).
[5] Zhao J, Fuhrmann-Stroissnigg H, Gurkar AU, Flores RR, Dorronsoro A, Stolz DB,
Taken together, the clinical studies highlight both the potent et al., Quantitative Analysis of Cellular Senescence in Culture and In Vivo. Curr
Protoc Cytom. 2017;79:9 51 1-9 25.
senolytic effect of the alpine rose extract, and the stimulat-
ing effect of the stem cell extracts on skin stem cell activa- [6] Hubert J, Kotland A, Henes B, Poigny S, Wandrey F., Deciphering the Phytochem-
ical Profile of an Alpine Rose (Rhododendron ferrugineum L.) Leaf Extract for a
Better Understanding of Its Senolytic and Skin-Rejuvenation Effects. Cosmetics.
2022;9(2).
[7] Yousefzadeh MJ, Zhu Y, McGowan SJ, Angelini L, Fuhrmann-Stroissnigg H, Xu M,
et al., Fisetin is a senotherapeutic that extends health and lifespan. EBioMedicine.
2018;36:18-28.
[8] Razak S, Afsar T, Ullah A, Almajwal A, Alkholief M, Alshamsan A, et al., Taxifolin,
a natural flavonoid interacts with cell cycle regulators causes cell cycle arrest and
causes tumor regression by activating Wnt/ beta -catenin signaling pathway. BMC
Cancer. 2018;18(1):1043.
[9] Liu E, Liang T, Wang X, Ban S, Han L, Li Q., Apoptosis induced by farrerol in hu-
man gastric cancer SGC-7901 cells through the mitochondrial-mediated pathway.
European Journal of Cancer Prevention. 2015;24(5):365-72.
[10] Yosef R, Pilpel N, Tokarsky-Amiel R, Biran A, Ovadya Y, Cohen S, et al., Directed
elimination of senescent cells by inhibition of BCL-W and BCL-XL. Nat Commun
7: 11190. 2016.
[11] Schmid D, Zülli F., Stimulating Epidermal Regeneration with Plant-derived Stem
Cells. Cosmetics and toiletries. 2010;125.

Fig. 5 Clinical Improvement of Skin Redness with Alpine Rose Ex-

tract. Application of a cream containing 2% alpine rose extract led authors
to a significant reduction of skin redness after 14 days, compared to
both placebo and initial conditions.
Dr. Julia Baumann, Dr. Franziska Wandrey*, Dr. Fred Zülli
Mibelle AG | Bolimattstrasse 1 | 5033 Buchs | Switzerland
tion and vitalization. In combination, these actives promote *Artemis Research Project Leader
an improved skin structure and an overall vibrant and reju-
venated skin. Corresponding author:
Dr. Fred Zülli | Founder & Business Development Director
Conclusion Mibelle AG | Bolimattstrasse 1 | 5033 Buchs | Switzerland

Senolytics, a new anti-aging concept, has gained a lot of at- Supported by Helvecos AG | Trogenerstrasse 23 | 9055 Bühler | Switzerland
tention in the last few years. The specific elimination of se-

32 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

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 content
Personal Care | hair care

Advancing Sustainability in Hair Care Using a Multifunctional Surfactant

Amber Yarnell, Ph.D., Dr. Matthias Kunze

abstract

C onsumers demand natural products that are safe, sustainable, and effective for adoption in their personal grooming routine.
Regulatory restrictions of active ingredients, such as zinc pyrithione, have posed challenges for formulators seeking to provide
high-performing products with a premium consumer experience. The use of multifunctional ingredients provides tangible ben-
efits to haircare, while resulting in simplified ingredient lists. Addition of multifunctional raw materials also offers the benefit
of decreasing the susceptibility of the formulation to microbial contamination, resulting in enhanced product protection when
combined with an approved Annex V preservative.
Herein, we highlight the application of the green multifunctional surfactant – Solbrol® CLL (INCI: sodium caproyl/lauroyl lacty-
late, and sodium citrate) – for use in haircare. Offering an excellent foaming experience, the surfactant also adds to the holistic
formulation strategy by decreasing microbial susceptibility of the total formulation, as evidenced by MIC data, along with mi-
crobial efficacy in shampoo of the multifunctional surfactant when paired with sodium benzoate. Strategic implementation of
the surfactant offers a creative solution for formulators developing other personal care products.

Desire for Sustainability is on the Rise There is another reason why multifunctionals have become ex-
tremely popular over the years: the number of officially listed
In 2015, the decades of effort by member states of the Unit- preservatives is shrinking, and some safe preservatives are pub-
ed Nations resulted in the 17 Sustainable Development Goals licly denigrated and therefore avoided by formulators. On top
(SDGs) that were set in order to achieve the 2030 Agenda for of that, naturally derived materials can increase the bioburden
Sustainable Development. [1] Amongst the 17 established SDGs of a formulation, making safe protection from microbial spoil-
is Goal 12, which aims to ensure sustainable consumption and age even more difficult. Multifunctional products that show
production patterns. Consumer demand for green products is synergistic antimicrobial properties allow the use of a preferred
also continuously rising, with global events only accelerating preservative in a lower concentration that alone might not pro-
this demand. According to an IBM report, the COVID-19 pan- vide reliable preservation of a cosmetic formulation. The use of
demic has impacted the views on sustainability of 93% of the multiple barriers and technologies that work together to cu-
global respondents. This clearly has affected buying behavior: mulatively provide broad-spectrum protection against microbi-
in 2022, 49% of consumers said they’ve paid a premium for al contamination is known as “hurdle technology”. Multifunc-
products branded as sustainable or socially responsible in the tionals are frequently utilized in examples which apply a hurdle
preceding 12 months. [2] In consequence, companies are also technology approach to product preservation.
put under increasing pressure by their shareholders to focus
on sustainable development. It is expected that this will lead
to greater long-term business value. [3] Together, the political, A Multifunctional Surfactant
social, and commerce drivers support a steady growth for sus- to Address Sustainability Needs
tainable product options in all areas of life.
One initiative to address the requirement for sustainability is Available from LANXESS as Solbrol® CLL* (INCI: Sodium
the “clean label” declaration. This trend favors renewable in- Caproyl / Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium Citrate), the multifunc-
gredients, as well as raw materials that do not come with issues tional surfactant Caproyl / Lauroyl lactylate (CLL) is a raw ma-
like sensitizing or irritating properties. The word “clean” is also terial that offers all the required properties listed above. This
understood in a broader sense to mean “tidy”, and can be renewable product meets natural requirements as it is made
related to simplicity and order. It is not just the type of ingre- from coconut oil, possessing a natural origin index (NOI) of 1
dients that matters, but also the total number: a shorter INCI according to ISO 16128. It is also compatible for use in COS-
list helps consumers to quickly identify the ingredients they are MOS certified formulations.
looking for, as well as those they want to avoid. By replacing The renewable anionic surfactant shows superior foaming
two or three ingredients at the same time, multifunctionals are properties, with regards to flash foam, foam volume, structure,
an excellent way to achieve the goal of a “cleaner” product [4]. and stability. Figure  1 highlights the strong foaming ability.

34 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

 | Personal
| Care

Using a Ross-Miles foam stability test, the performance of CLL

results in improved foam height compared to sodium lauryl sul-
fate (SLS) at 1 minute, and the volume of foam produced by
CLL remains greater than the SLS control for the 3- and 5-min-
ute intervals. Similarly, by preparing a blended surfactant solu-
tion of 9% SLS with 1% CLL, greater foam height is achieved
and maintained compared to a solution of 10% SLS alone.
The stability of the foam produced by CLL extends far beyond
a 5-minute test, as shown in Figure  2. Compared to polysor-
bate 80, CLL provides a similarly stable foam over the course
of 5 hours. Long-lasting foam is a highly desired feature in a
variety of personal care products, such as indulgent bubble
bath products.
At the same time, CLL also has some very interesting antimi-

Personal
crobial properties, which help both with specific applications
as well as with supporting in-can preservation. Minimum in-
hibitory concentrations (MIC) of CLL have been established
for standard species common to cosmetic preservative effi-
Care
cacy tests (PET), as well as some of the species responsible
for unsightly conditions including acne, seborrheic dermatitis,
and dandruff. [5, 6] The results of the MIC study are displayed
in Figure  3. Concentrations of CLL that exhibit inhibition of
bacterial and fungal species are well within typical ranges for
inclusion into many types of personal cleansing products. In
the case of P. acnes and M. furfur, CLL is capable of inhibit-
ing growth using low concentrations of 0.25% and 0.20%
by weight, respectively. This ability makes the multifunction-
al surfactant particularly appealing to the creative formula-
tor seeking to develop effective skin and scalp care products
without use of traditional active ingredients, such as salicylic Germany
acid and zinc pyrithione (ZPT). In particular ZPT is under scru-
tiny and has been banned entirely from European cosmetics
because of its reproductive toxicity. [7,  8] Because of these
concerns, sustainable alternatives to these restricted chem-
istries are urgently needed, and CLL offers one such option.

The Impact of Preservation on Sustainability

Sustainable products prepared with biorenewable and read-
ily biodegradable materials must be adequately preserved. Home
Ingredients that are gentle for human health may also be
friendly to microbes, serving as a source of nutrients and en-
Care
couraging product spoilage. If a product spoils earlier than
its intended shelf life, it must be disposed of to protect the
health of the user, resulting in unnecessary waste. By choos-
ing an appropriate Annex V listed preservative option for a
personal grooming formula, the time in which the product
can be safely used up is extended. Once the product is com-
pletely consumed, the empty container can be composted or
recycled as intended by the manufacturer. A 2018 life cycle
analysis of architectural coatings determined that the use of
IMPAG Import GmbH Visit us at
preservatives provided great benefit when compared to pre-
Tel : +49 69 85 000 8-0
servative-free options or product refrigeration. [9] The use of
[email protected]
preservatives contribute favorably to the circular economy,
health of consumers, and the environment.
www.impag.de (A125-132) !

10/22 | 148 | sofwjournal 35

 content
Personal Care | hair care

shampoo product. Purox® S** sodium benzoate, available

from LANXESS, is a sustainable preservative option listed for
use in Annex V that is ideal for use in the shampoo formula
example. As a well-established preservative in the person-
al care market, this organic acid preservative takes a cue
from nature in providing broad-spectrum microbial protec-
tion in acidic environments. Because of the favorable health
and safety profile of sodium benzoate, it is listed for use in
products to be certified by green label programs, including
COSMOS, Ecocert, and others. In the example formulation,
superior protection is exhibited against a range of micro-
Fig. 1 Ross-Miles foam stability of CLL compared to SLS
organisms in a standard PET for the shampoo containing
Purox® S sodium benzoate and Solbrol® CLL. Given the for-
mula pH of 5.85 and the low level of sodium benzoate, CLL
is providing an additional hurdle against microbial growth in
the formulation (Figure  4).

Conclusion
Consumption of sustainable products is steadily increasing in
importance, with acceleration of the trend resulting from the
global COVID-19 pandemic. The use of a renewable multifunc-
tional surfactant CLL supports sustainability demands, offering a
desired consumer sensory experience in addition to suppression
of microbes responsible for common undesirable conditions,
Fig. 2 Foam stability over time for CLL compared to polysorbate 80
such as dandruff. CLL adds a valuable option to the formula-
tor’s surfactant options, giving flexibility to formulate high ROI
products or meet COSMOS compatibility requirements. The use
of CLL also pairs well with preferred preservative options, such
as sodium benzoate, to result in well-protected products that
possess an extended shelf life, ultimately leading to more sus-
tainable products.

Notes
* Solbrol® is a registered trademark
of LANXESS Deutschland GmbH, Germany
** Purox® is a registered trademark
of Emerald Kalama Chemical, LLC,
Fig. 3 Minimum inhibitory concentrations for CLL against a variety of
a LANXESS Group company
bacteria and fungi.

Formula Inspiration – a Sustainable Anti-dandruff Shampoo

The multifunctional benefits of CLL make it an ideal candidate
for formulations in personal care, including shampoos or skin
wash products. An example is the development of an anti-dan-
druff shampoo featuring ingredients based on naturally derived
ingredients (Table  1). CLL contributes to the desired foaming
of the shampoo, while offering an alternative ingredient to ZPT
to suppress the growth of M. furfur, the fungal species associ-
ated with dandruff and other skin or scalp disorders.

The Use of Sodium Benzoate in Anti-dandruff Shampoo Fig. 4 PET results for anti-dandruff shampoo formulated with Sol-
brol® CLL and preserved with 0.6% Purox® S sodium benzoate, pH
The use of an appropriate preservative in final formulation 5.85. Excellent microbial control is provided by the combination of
multifunctional surfactant and preservative.
contributes to the overall sustainability of the anti-dandruf-

36 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

 content
hair care | Personal Care
Table 1. Formulation for a sustainable anti-dandruff shampoo.

[6] A. Schmidt, „Malassezia furfur: a

Ingredient Trade Name wt% fungus belonging to the physiological
skin flora and its relevance in skin dis-
Water 68.32 orders,“ Cutis, Bd. 59, Nr. 1, pp. 21-24,
Sodium gluconate 0.10 1997.

Sodium laureth sulfate – 2 EO, 70%, naturally derived 20.00 [7] European Commission, „Request
for a scientific opinion of Salicylic acid
Sodium caproyl/lauroyl lactylate, 30% Solbrol® CLL *
3.33 (CAS No. 69-72-7, EC No. 200-712-
Lauryl glucoside, 50% 2.00 3),“ 2022.
Myristyl glucoside, 50% 2.00 [8] European Commission, „Com-
mission Regulation (EU) 2021/1902,“
Coco glucoside and glyceryl oleate, 65% Lamesoft® 651 3.00 Official Journal of the European Union,
Sodium chloride 1.25 Bd. 387, Nr. 120, 2021.
Sodium benzoate Purox® S** 0.60 [9] American Coatings Association
Life Cycle Assessment Drafting Team,
Citric acid To pH 5.85 „Life-Cycle Assessment of Architec-
1
Lamesoft is a registered trademark of BASF tural Coatings: Considering Different
Preservative Scenarios,“ CoatingsTech,
Nr. August, pp. 41-44, 2018.
Tab. 1 Formulation for a sustainable anti-dandruff shampoo

References:
The use of sodium benzoate in anti-dandruff shampoo authors
[1] United Nations Deparment of Economic and Social Affairs, „Sustainable Devel-
opment Goals,“ [Online]. Available: https://sdgs.un.org/goals. [Zugriff am 8 July
The use of an appropriate preservative in final formulation contributes
2022]. to the overall sustainability of
the anti-dandruff shampoo product. Purox® S sodium benzoate, available from LANXESS, is a Amber Yarnell, Ph.D., Applications Scientist
**
[2] IBM Institue for Business Value, „Balancing sustainability and profitability,
sustainable preservative
“ IBM Corporation, Armonk, NY,option
2022. listed for use in Annex V that is ideal for use in the shampoo Dr. Matthias formula
Kunze, Business Development Manager, EMEA
[3] example.
A. Toh, „How As toa enhance
well-established preservative
long-term business insustainability,“
value through the personal care market, this organic acid preservative
Ernst LANXESS AG, Flavors & Fragrances Business Unit
& Young Global Limited, 28 July 2021. [Online]. Available: https://www.ey.com/
takes a cue from nature in providing broad-spectrum microbial protection in acidic environments.
en_ph/sustainability/how-to-enhance-long-term-business-value-through-sustain-
Because of the
ability. [Zugriff am favorable
8 July 2022]. health and safety profile of sodium benzoate, it is listed for use in products to
Corresponding Author:
[4] be certified by green
European Federation label programs,
for Cosmetic including
Ingredients, „The COSMOS, in-
use of multifunctional Ecocert, and others. In the example
gredients to assist the preservation of cosmetic product,“ 18 July 2019. [Online]. Dr. Matthias Kunze | Business Development Manager
formulation, superior protection is exhibited against a range of microorganisms in a standard
Available: https://effci.com/docs/2019-07-18%20EFFCI%20position%20multi- PET
Lanxess AG for the 1 | 50569 Köln | Germany
| Kennedyplatz
functionals.pdf. [Zugriff am 7 July 2022].
shampoo containing Purox® S sodium benzoate and Solbrol® CLL. Given the formula pH of 5.85 and the [email protected]
[5] J. Kirschbaum und A. Kligman, „The pathogenic role of Corynebacterium acnes in
low level of sodium benzoate, CLL is providing an additional hurdle against microbial growth in the
acne vulgaris.,“ Archives of Dermatology, Bd. 88, pp. 832-833, 1963.
formulation.

Figure 4. PET results for anti-dandruff shampoo formulated with Solbrol® CLL and preserved with 0.6% Purox® S sodium
benzoate, pH 5.85. Excellent microbial control is provided by the combination of multifunctional surfactant and preservative.

Conclusion

Consumption of sustainable products is steadily increasing in importance, with acceleration of the trend
resulting from the global COVID-19 pandemic. The use of a renewable multifunctional surfactant CLL
supports sustainability demands, offering a desired consumer sensory experience in addition to
suppression of microbes responsible for common undesirable conditions, such as dandruff. CLL adds a

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10/22 | 148 | sofwjournal 37

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 content
Personal Care | hair care

Water Lily Roots – Perfect Volume for Urban Hair

Dr. Bernd Walzel, Dr. Ulrike Bätz, Dr. Anja Herrmann, Beatrix Senti, Tamina Shah, Dr. Stefan Bänziger

abstract

W ater lilies originate from the water and symbolize beauty and purity. This association makes water lilies an ideal starting
point to create water-based cosmetic concepts. The flowers, visible above the water, are seemingly the most attractive part
of the plant. A closer look, however, uncovers that water lily roots are exceptional underwater factories of phytochemicals. Their
long and branched root system produces a unique combination of metabolites – all potential additives for hair care products.
Water Lily Root Extracts contain amphipathic saponins, antioxidative flavonoids, and keratin-enforcing tannins, a combination
perfectly suited for the daily hair care routine.
With its proven efficacy, Water Lily Root Extract is a powerful ingredient for hair care applications. The extract protects hair from
urban pollution, it improves hair manageability, it tames frizzy hair, and it optimizes hair volume and definition.

Water Lily – Perfectly Adapted to an Aquatic Environment

Nymphaea alba L. (Nymphaeaceae), also known as Euro-
pean white water lily, white water rose or white nenuphar,
is an aquatic flowering plant that lives in temperate and
tropical climates around the world. The plant is anchored
with perennial rhizomes or rootstocks in the soil with
round leaves and flowers floating on the water surface
(Figure  1). The submerged rootstocks store nutrients in up
to 3 m water depth with no access to atmospheric oxy-
gen or UV-light. They experience lower and more constant
temperatures and higher pressure. As a result, their phyto-
chemical composition is different as compared to flowers
or leaves that float at the surface with contact to air [Refs
1- 8]. The roots, especially the thickened root stalks (rhi- Fig. 1 Water lilies form beautiful underwater landscapes. The stems
grow from the bottom to the water surface. Its submerged roots
zomes) store saponins (biosurfactants), flavonoids (antiox-
provide a more valuable set of phytochemicals than flowers or leaves
idants), and tannins (keratin strengtheners) with potential
that float on the water surface.
value for hair care applications.
All this motivated us to further investigate Water Lily Root
Extract and its beneficial properties for the treatment of glycerin, (d) ethanol-water (tincture), or (e) propylene gly-
hair. col (PG)-water. The content of saponins, polyphenols (fla-
vonoids), and tannins, as well as the antioxidative power of
extracts were quantified using standard analytical testing
Extraction of Water Lily Roots for Cosmetic Use – (Figure  2).
Phytochemical Analysis The extraction of Nymphaea alba roots with propylene gly-
col-water provided high amounts of saponins, polyphenols
Flowers, leaves, and roots of the water lily plant produce and tannins, and it showed the highest antioxidative power
unique sets of phytochemicals, of which the roots provide of all extraction systems tested.
the most promising ingredients for hair care applications. As a result, the propylene glycolic-aqueous extraction sys-
To optimize the extraction of phytochemicals from water tem is the most efficient in extracting saponins, flavonoids
lily roots, we tested various extraction systems to obtain and tannins. These compounds provide cleansing, condi-
a maximum of beneficial substances for hair treatment. tioning, protecting, and strengthening benefits to hair, and
Various extraction systems for Nymphaea alba roots were may help to protect hair against urban pollution, to improve
prepared based on either (a) water, (b) glycerin-water, (c) hair manageability, and to optimize hair volume.

38 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

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hair care | Personal Care

Water Lily Root Extract Protects Hair

Against Urban Pollution – A Real-Life Exposure Study
In an ex vivo study, the protective effect of Water Lily Root
Extract against urban pollution was analyzed using scanning
electron microscopy (SEM). Briefly, hair tresses were washed
with a shampoo containing 0.5% Water Lily Root Extract
or with a placebo shampoo. Treated hair tresses were kept
in contact with urban air pollution for 4 days on a balcony
in the city center of Barcelona, Spain. After exposure, hair
surfaces were analyzed by SEM coupled to a microanalysis
system. Representative images were taken to evaluate the
degree of hair damage and particle deposition (Figure  3).
As a result, hair treated with Water Lily Root Extract repels
urban pollution. This makes hair less vulnerable to chemical
damage and maintains a healthy and smooth hair surface, for
improved manageability and hair quality. This way, Water Lily
Root Extract supports a lifestyle of urban living.

Fig. 2 A propylene glycolic-aqueous extraction is most efficient for

water lily roots. The phytochemical content and antioxidative pow-
Water Lily Root Extract Improves Hair Manageability
er of different extraction systems was analyzed. The saponin con-
tent was determined using a standardized foam test. The content
and Quality
of tannins was determined using a coloration assay based on Fe
(III) chloride. The polyphenol content was determined using a Folin- In a double-blind, placebo-controlled, randomized, compara-
Ciocalteu phenol reagent. The antioxidative power was analyzed tive half-head test the efficacy of Water Lily Root Extract in im-
using a DPPH reagent assay. N=3; Mean + SEM.
proving hair manageability and quality was tested. A shampoo

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 content
Personal Care | hair care

Water Lily Root Extract Optimizes

Hair Volume and Definition
In a double-blind, placebo-controlled,
randomized, comparative half-head
test, the effect of Water Lily Root Ex-
tract on the order and definition of
hair was compared to a placebo sham-
poo. The study evaluated hair to hair
orientation and alignment that often
appears frizzy, diffuse, or as flying
hair. One half of the head was treated
with a Water Lily Root Extract and the
other with a placebo shampoo. Each
Fig. 3 Water Lily Root Extract keeps urban hair clean and smooth. Hair tresses (2 x 5 tresses of side was washed, rinsed, and dried
natural Caucasian hair of 22 cm length) were subjected to urban pollution for 4 days after treat- according to a standard protocol. The
ment with either Water Lily Root Extract or placebo shampoo. SEM analysis of the hair surface
evolution of hair condition was moni-
with 2000 x and 8000 x resolution.
tored with a digital camera and zones
of disordered, diffuse, undefined, or
frizzy hair were quantified using a pixel
counting software (Figure  5A).
As a result, Water Lily Root Extract
gives hair a more parallel alignment.
Order and definition improve by 25%
(Figure  5B). This way, Water Lily Root
Extract helps to tame unruly, frizzy hair.
It supports defined volume and provides
the perfect finish for premium volume
shampoos. This is in line with our mar-
ket analysis revealing that Water Lily
Root Extract is indeed preferred in vol-
ume shampoos (data not shown).

Conclusion
Fig. 4 Water Lily Root Extract helps to improve hair manageability and to tame frizzy hair.
20 women, age 22-75 years with medium hair length, fine to normal hair thickness, none to Water lilies arise from the water and
medium greasiness, and slight to medium hair damage, applied a shampoo with 1% Water Lily
convey the concept of water, making
Root Extract to one side of the head and placebo to the other side. Differences between test
it an ideal starting point to create wa-
products are shown in %. N = 20; Mean + SEM.
ter-based cosmetic concepts, includ-
ing rinse-off products, for example
containing Water Lily Root Extract was applied to one side of shampoos or bath products. Visually, water lily flowers are
the head and a placebo shampoo to the other side (Figure  4). the most attractive part of the plant, but their phytochemical
As a result, Water Lily Root Extract increased hair manageabil- composition is limited to antioxidants. The roots, in contrast,
ity and quality: are powerful underwater factories that store a unique com-
•  A comb brushed through hair more easily and without hin- bination of saponins, flavonoids, and tannins with cleansing,
drance (combability). conditioning, strengthening, and protective effects for hair.
•  The first brush tended to result in smooth hair (detangling). A propylene glycolic-aqueous system is best suited to extract
•  
Overall hair quality with Water Lily Root shampoo was water lily root phytochemicals for hair care applications. This
rated as ‘top’, whereas with the placebo shampoo it was extract is a phytochemical concentrate that keeps urban hair
rated only as ‘good’ (data not shown). clean and smooth, that protects the hair surface from air pol-
lution, that improves hair manageability, tames frizzy hair,
Thus, Water Lily Root Extract in a shampoo improves com- and that optimizes hair volume and definition.
bability and detangling. It makes hair more manageable. In- Overall, Water Lily Root Extract is a powerful ingredient for hair
creased manageability is expected to go hand in hand with care applications that perfectly fit into a modern urban lifestyle.
increased control of unruly and frizzy hair.

40 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

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hair care | Personal Care

A) Order and Definition – Visual Evaluation References:

[1]     J. Jambor, Phenolic acids from the flowers of Nym-
phaea alba L. Acta Societatis Botanicorum Poloniae 60,
127-132, (1991).

[2]     E.C. Stephen, et al., Chemical Composition of Water

Lily (Nymphaea lotus) Bulbs. American Journal of Food
Science and Nutrition 4, 7-12 (2017).

[3]     N. Madhusudhanan, et al., In vitro Antioxidant and

Free Radical Scavenging Activity of Aqueous and Ethanolic
Flower Extract of Nymphaea Alba, International Journal of
Drug Development & Research 3, 252-258 (2010).

[4]     O.S. Koushik, et al., Anti-Inflammatory Activity of

Flowers of Nymphaea alba by HRBC Membrane Stabiliza-
tion Method, Research in Plant Biology 5, 18-20 (2015).

[5]     R.O. Bakr, et al., Profile of bioactive compounds in

Nymphaea alba L. leaves growing in Egypt: hepatopro-
tective, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity; BMC
Complementary Altern Med 17, 52 (2017).

[6]     R.O. Bakr, et al., Characterization of the bioactive

constituents of Nymphaea alba rhizomes and evaluation of
B) Order and Definition – Quantitative Evaluation anti-biofilm as well as antioxidant and cytotoxic properties.
J. Med. Plants Res. 10, 26 (2016).

[7]     A. Bose, et al., In vivo evaluation of anti-diarrheal

activity of the rhizome of Nymphaea alba (Nymphaeaceae).
Orient Pharm Exp Med 12, 129-134 (2012).

[8]     D. Kregiel, et al., Saponin-Based, Biological-Active Sur-

factants from plants, in Application and Characterization
of Surfactants (IntechOpen, 2017), pp.183-205.

authors

Dr. Bernd Walzel, Dr. Ulrike Bätz, Dr. Anja Herrmann,

Fig. 5 Water Lily Root Extract gives hair order and definition. (A) Representative pictures
Beatrix Senti, Tamina Shah,
show the difference in hair appearance after treatment. Hair treated with Water Lily Root
Extract looks less diffuse, more natural and defined. (B) Zones of diffuse hair were quantified
Dr. Stefan Bänziger
using a pixel counting software calculating relative areas of diffuse hair. Hair, treated with Lipoid Kosmetik AG | Sennweidstrasse 44/46 |
Water Lily Root Extract, appears 25% less diffuse, frizzy, and flying. N=20, Mean +SEM, CH-6312 Steinhausen | Switzerland
Students t-test Water Lily Root Extract vs. placebo; *** = p < 0.001.

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10/22 | 148 | sofwjournal 41

 content
Personal Care | micribiological stability

Innovative Solution for Cosmetic Protection with Skin Functional Activity

Karin Stoffels, Elodie Oger, Laurine Bergeron, Laura Mouret, Sandrine Pinacolo

abstract

In today’s world consumers aim for a sustainable and healthy lifestyle. Therefore, a modern cosmetic product must not only
be safe to use but is formulated and produced with an aspiration for a low environmental footprint. These demands call for
efficient and safe ingredients without compromising the microbial safety.
The options for microbial stabilization are increasingly limited due to legislative restrictions and changing consumer expecta-
tions. Furthermore, the increased use of natural ingredients can pose a higher risk of contamination. High raw material stan-
dards and a sound microbial quality management (e.g. Ashland’s MQMTM) applied throughout the entire production process lay
ground for a hygienic product. However, to safeguard the integrity of a cosmetic product during its transport, storage and use,
an adequate broad-spectrum antimicrobial is essential.
Ashland’s latest launch sensivaTM sc 80 multifunctional meets multiple needs. The synergistic blend is a powerful antibacterial
and fungicide, safe to use, sustainable, and nature-derived (ISO 16128). Additionally, sensivaTM sc 80 multifunctional provides
skin functionalities that contribute to well-aging and a healthy skin.

Antimicrobial activity The synergism of an optimized combination of caprylyl gly-

of sensivaTM sc 80 multifunctional col with caprylhydroxamic acid solubilized in natural 1,3-pro-
panediol is displayed in Table  1. The tested formulation is an
The new synergistic blend sensivaTM sc 80 multifunctional pro- oil-in water natural body lotion (Table  2). The results of the
vides outstanding broad-spectrum efficacy without pH limita- challenge test show the strong fungicidal capacity of capryl-
tions. Especially its fungicidal activity ensures a well-protected hydroxamic acid alone at only 0.05%. Caprylyl glycol alone or
product at use-concentrations between 0.3 - 1.5%. boosted with 1,3-propanediol is sufficiently bactericidal but
The antimicrobial activity has been proven by the Ashland fails against fungi. A low concentration of 0.75% sensivaTM sc
CosPET (Cosmetic Preservation Efficacy Test). This method is 80 multifunctional already achieves a criteria A in this formu-
used to determine the efficacy of antimicrobials in cosmet- lation tested at pH 5.3.
ic formulations, e.g. creams, lotions and shampoos. During Table  3 shows the pH independent activity of sensivaTM sc
CosPET, two samples of a test product are separately inocula- 80 multifunctional exemplary tested in an oil-in-water cream
ted with a bacterial and a fungal suspension. Simultaneously, (Table  4). A criteria A is fulfilled at both pH values 5.0 and 8.0
streak cultures of each batch are made before inoculation. with 0.5% of the antimicrobial stabilizer.

re 1 1
The microbial growth is evaluated semi-quantitatively. After sensivaTM sc 80 multifunctional is also suitable for wet-wipe
inoculation the germ count is expected to decrease over time. emulsions. Table  5 shows the results of an oil-in -water na-

Figure The final assessment is performed in accordance with Europe-

an Pharmacopoeia (Figure  1).
tural wipe emulsion (Table  6) sufficiently protected by using
0.75% of the active blend.

—
PET method
CosPET method
metic Preservative Efficacy Test, semiquantitative germ reduction
criteria
Cosmetic Preservative Efficacy Test, semiquantitative 2d
criteria
7d germ reduction 28d
14d
2d 7d 14d 28d
S. aureus C. albicans A 2 3 - n.i.
S. aureus bacteria A 2 3 - n.i.
S. epidermidis C. albicans bacteria B - - 3 n.i.
A. brasiliensis
S. epidermidis A. brasiliensis B - - 3 n.i.
P. aeruginosa A n.d. n.d. 3 n.i.
P. aeruginosa fungi A n.d. n.d. 3 n.i.
P. gergoviae fungi B n.d. n.d. 2 n.i.
P. gergoviae B n.d. n.d. 2 n.i.
P. putida P. putida
B. cepacia B. cepacia evaluation time points:time points:
evaluation
E. coli E. coli bacteria: bacteria: 2, 7, 14, 28d
2, 7, 14, 28d n.i. – no
n.i.increase
– no increase
K. pneumoniae K. pneumoniae fungi: fungi: 14, 28d 14, 28d n.d. – not n.d. determined
– not determined
105-106 CFU/g 105-106 CFU/g

Fig. 1 Germs and assessment of CosPET

42 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

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micribiological stability | Personal Care

Tab. 1 CosPET results in a natural body lotion (o / w)

Tab. 2 Formulation of natural body lotion (o / w) FL-22-0154

Tab. 3 CosPET results in o / w cream at different pH values

Tab. 4 Formulation of o / w cream FL-19-0135

10/22 | 148 | sofwjournal 43

 content
Personal Care | micribiological stability
evaluation
natural wipe emulsion (o/w) pH
sterility bacteria fungi assess-
FW-13-0121 control
2d 7d 14d 28d Assess- ment 14d 28d
assess-
ment
ment

unpreserved 7.0 - C C C C f C C f f

+ 0.50% sensiva™ sc 80 multifunctional 7.0 - C C C C f - - A f

+ 0.75% sensiva™ sc 80 multifunctional 7.0 - + - - - A - - A A

assessment - = free of microbial growth

Table 6
+ = slight growth
f = failed
++ = moderate growth
A = pass criteria A
+++ = heavy growth
B = pass criteria B
++++ = massive growth

—
C = completely overgrown

6 Tab. 5 CosPET results in natural wipe emulsion (o / w)

natural wipe emulsion(o/w) (FW-13-0121)

phase INCI name trade name function % w/w
Glycerin Glycerin (99%) humectant 5.00
A
Aqua (and) Sucrose Laurate (and) Alcohol Sisterna L70-C2) emulsifier 3.75

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Myritol 3183) emollient 5.00

B
Tocopherol Tocopherol antioxidant 0.10

Aqua thickener ad 100

C
Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum Avicel PC 6114) thickener 1.50

D Propanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Caprylhydroxamic acid sensiva™ sc 80 multifunctional1) antimicrobial stabilizer q.s.

E Citric Acid pH adjuster q.s.

1) Ashland 2)Sisterna 3)BASF 4)FMC Corporation

Tab. 6 Formulation of natural wipe emulsion (o/w) FW-13-0121

Figure 2
Skin protection and well-aging
Several scientific in-vitro cell-free tests were performed to in-
— increase in blue staining (Figure  2).
In addition, sensivaTM sc 80 multifunctional acts as an iron
vestigate the antioxidant and enzyme inhibition capability of
7
sensivaTM sc 80 multifunctional [1].

0.5% 0.05% 0.025% 10% 1% 0.5%

Antioxidant properties
The active ingredient caprylhydroxamic acid included in sen-
sivaTM sc 80 multifunctional acts as a chelating agent. It reacts
and forms complexes with metal ions. Free metal ions can
control EDTA sensiva™ sc 80
induce oxidation reactions and can affect the stability and ap-
multifunctional
pearance of cosmetic products. Caprylhydroxamic acid is also
Fig. 2 Results of in tubo chelating assay with copper sulfate, sensivaTM
known to provide free radical scavenging activity [2, 3, 4].
sc 80 multifunctional in propanediol, EDTA in water..
sensivaTM sc 80 multifunctional is a powerful chelator. Iron
chelators function as antioxidants by scavenging reactive
oxygen species (ROS) and reduce the amount of available protection shield. The FRAP (ferric reducing ability of plasma)
iron by decreasing the quantity of hydroxide generated by assay is a widely used method where in Fe3+ is reduced to
Fenton reactions. Iron and hydrogen peroxide can oxidize 8 Fe2+; which then reacts with ferric chloride to form ferric–
a wide range of substrates and causing biological damage. ferrous complex that has an absorption maximum at 700 nm.
The reaction in this assay, referred to as the Fenton reaction, The ingredient antioxidant activity depends on the potential
can generate both hydroxyl radicals and higher oxidation to form complexes with metal ions, particularly iron and cop-
states of the iron. per [2]. 0.5% sensivaTM sc 80 multifunctional diluted in pro-
The method used was the in tubo chelating assay with copper panediol provides significant reducing power comparable to
sulfate. sensivaTM sc 80 multifunctional in propanediol at pH 5.5 ascorbic acid (AA), 1.0% even stronger. Thus, sensivaTM sc 80
was tested against control and the well-known chelator EDTA multifunctional can prevent metal ion catalyzed generation of
in water at pH 10.5 as a benchmark. Chelating activity leads to reactive species leading to reductive cascades. No reducing
green or blue staining dependent on the pH of the sample. effect was detected by hydroxyacetophenone (HAP) which
The results show that sensivaTM sc 80 multifunctional possess- was tested in comparison (Figure  3).
es significant and dose-dependent chelating power reflected A lipid peroxidation study was performed to investigate the
by the formation of green aggregates after copper solution ability of sensivaTM sc 80 multifunctional to protect lipids in
addition. The benchmark EDTA also chelates ions leading to cells and membranes against oxidative stress. Lipid peroxi-

44 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

 content
micribiological stability | Personal Care

conditions. 72% of linoleic acid becomes oxidized under

stress conditions. With addition of sensivaTM sc 80 multifunc-
tional the peroxidation is reduced at 41% using 0.5% of the
active blend. 1.0 % sensivaTM sc 80 multifunctional achieves
the same good protection (27% of oxidation) like 0.1% of

Figure
Figure
6 6 the benchmark vitamin E (29% of oxidation).

—— Well-aging benefits
Dermal matrix components such as collagen and hyaluronic
acid are playing a key role in well-aging and skin repair. Colla-
genases are part of enzyme-family Matrix-Metalloproteinases
Fig. 3 Results of FRAP assay measured by optical density (OD) evaluated
100 100 91 91
with a colorimetric probe at 700 nm, sensiva sc 80 multifunctional 80in
TM
80

hyaluronidase inhibition

hyaluronidase inhibition
66 66

(% to negative control)

(% to negative control)
propanediol, ascorbic acid (AA) in water, hydroxyacetophenone (HAP)
60
in ethanol / DMSO. Mean and standard error of the mean (SEM); n = 2.
60 50 50
40 40

dation is the oxidative degradation of lipids. In this process

20 20
0 0
free radicals initiate a cascade of reactions attacking the lipid
0 0

membranes resulting in cell damage. Lipid peroxidation is in- negative controlnegativepositive

controlcontrol positive
0.5%control
sensiva™ sc0.5%
80 sensiva™
1% sensiva™
sc 80 sc 80
multifunctional multifunctional
1% sensiva™ sc 80
multifunctional multifunctional
volved in premature aging and in the progression of comedo-
genesis which can lead to clogged pores and possibly to acne.
The positive control in the assay was vitamin E and stress
Fig. 4 Results of lipid peroxidation assay, control: vitamin E in chloro-
was induced by hydrogen peroxide and heating. The results
form, sensivaTM sc 80 multifunctional in propanediol, stress: 1,7  mmol
(Figure  4) show the HPLC-MS quantification of 12 linoleic acid
12
oxygen peroxide for 2 hours at 95 °C.
before peroxidation (control) and after application of stress

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si PA

10/22 | 148 | sofwjournal 45

SE

[email protected] • www.slichemicals.com
Vi
 Figure 6
—
—
Personal Care | micribiological stability
content

120
100 91 both tested concentrations 0.5% and 1.0% (Figure  4, 5). The
100
96
80 prevention from degradation of collagen and hyaluronan can
control)
(% to negativeinhibition

66
collagenase inhibition
(% to negative control)

80
50
help to sustain strength and flexibility of the skin.
60
57
hyaluronidase

60
43
40
40 Summary
20
20
00
00 The new innovative blend sensiva™ sc 80 multifunctional
negative
negativecontrol
control positive
positive control
control 0.50% sc 80
0.5% sensiva™ 1% sc 80
1% sensiva™
multifunctional multifunctional offers broad-spectrum activity to protect the microbiological

Figure 6
sensiva™ sc 80 multifunctional
stability of cosmetic application. Its excellent fungicidal ca-
Fig. 5 Results of collagenase inhibition in tubo assay, control: 0.1% pacity makes it a perfect solution for different formulations

—12
gallic acid, sensivaTM sc 80 multifunctional in propanediol, analysis of
collagen fluorescent digested fragment. Mean and standard error of
the mean (SEM); n = 2.
especially those which are difficult to preserve. It is easy to
use, pH independent and compatible with typical cosmetic in-
gredients. In addition, sensiva™ sc 80 multifunctional acts as
11
chelator and antioxidant and contributes to a healthy-looking
100 91 skin by guarding collagen and hyaluronan.
80
hyaluronidase inhibition

66
(% to negative control)

References:
60 50
[1] Ponedel’kina, I. Yu.; Gaskarova, A. R.; Galimzyanova, N. F.; Odinokov, V. N.;
40 Hydroxamates of polyuronic acids: synthesis and resistance to Aspergillus niger.
Chemistry of Natural Compounds (2016), 52(4), 683-685.
20
[2] Kwak, Seon-Yeong; Lee, Song; Choi, Hye-Ryung; Park, Kyung-Chan; Lee,
0 Yoon-Sik; Dual effects of caffeoyl-amino acidyl-hydroxamic acid as an an-
0
negative control positive control 0.5% sensiva™ sc 80 1% sensiva™ sc 80
tioxidant and depigmenting agent. Bioorganic & Medicinal Chemistry Let-
multifunctional multifunctional ters (2011), 21(18), 5155-5158.
[3] Day, Joshua A.; Cohen, Seth M.; Investigating the selectivity of metalloenzyme
Fig. 6 Results of hyaluronidase inhibition in tubo assay, control: 0.03% inhibitors. Journal of Medicinal Chemistry (2013), 56(20), 7997-8007.
tannic acid, sensivaTM sc 80 multifunctional in propanediol, analysis of
[4] Huang D, Ou B, Prior RL.; The chemistry behind antioxidant capacity assays.
turbidity (reactivity between remaining hyaluronan and acidic albumin J Agric Food Chem. 2005 Mar 23;53(6):1841-56
solution. Mean and standard error of the mean (SEM); n = 2.
12
authors
(MMPs) involved in proteins degradation of the skin connec-
tive tissue. They act as transmembrane zinc endopeptidases Karin Stoffels
that break the peptide bonds of collagen, the most abundant Head of Product Development Microbial Protection
constituent of the extracellular matrix (ECM). Hyaluronidases Elodie Oger
are classes of enzymes degrading predominantly the polysac- Sr. Team Leader, new product development and process transfer,
charides hyaluronan (hyaluronic acid), a voluminous polysac- [email protected]
charide found in ECM. It binds to the surface of cells and pro- Laurine Bergeron
vides elasticity, hydration, and protection, which contributes Scientist III, new product development and process transfer,
to healthy-looking skin. [email protected]
Under normal physiological conditions, the activity of these en- Laura Mouret
zymes is precisely regulated to ensure skin tissue homeostasis. Team Leader, analytical chemistry platform and new method development,
Under oxidative stress or UV light exposure, they are overex- [email protected]
pressed, resulting in skin disorders such as premature skin ag- Sandrine Pinacolo
ing, inflammation, or, more seriously, degenerative diseases. Scientist II, analytical chemistry platform and new method development,
sensivaTM sc 80 multifunctional exhibits strong inhibition of both [email protected]
collagenase and hyaluronidase proven in the in tubo assays at
Picture Credits: Aleksandar Mijatovic/shutterstock.com

ADVERTISING

Tel: +49 8281 79940-31

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46 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

 content
oral care | Personal Care

Cosmetic Claims: Practical Advice /

Recommendations for Dealing with Advertising Claims
Part 2: Products for Dental and Oral Care
S. Hönlinger

abstract

A dvertising claims in the cosmetics sector serve to inform the end consumer about the qualities and characteristics of cosmetic
products. They are essential instruments to differentiate between products; they stimulate innovation and foster competition.
For cosmetic product claims to adequately serve their purpose, it is important to ensure that they are fair and do not mislead the
consumer. The second part supplements the recommendation [1] of the GÖCH Working Group “Cosmetic Claims” published in
2019 with examples of evidence of efficacy and associated claim possibilities for dental and oral care products in each case. Special
attention is paid to questions of borderline cases, the evaluation of fluoridated and fluoride-free products as well as tooth whiten-
ing products. This document is also intended to be of particular help to small and medium-sized enterprises.

Background and Specific Requirements evidence for the actual achievement of such results and to
for Oral Hygiene Products show ways in which the results obtained can achieve demon-
strable quality for the presence of the desired properties.
According to Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 [2] (EU Cosmet- A correspondence of these criteria should always be based on
ics Regulation) and Regulation (EU) No. 655/2013 (Claims the general specifications of the Claims Regulation and the
Regulation) [3], responsible person must substantiate claims technical document [5]. (Table  1)
concerning the performance of the cosmetic product in a re-
producible manner.
The responsible person is free to choose which method is Delimitation of Cosmetic Dental and Oral Care Products
used to prove cosmetic effect. The verification of the efficacy
of a cosmetic product on the market must therefore be based According to Art. 2 (1) lit. a. of the EU Cosmetics Regulation,
on established, scientific and technical verified methods and cosmetic products are defined as “substances or mixtures in-
alternatively by confirmation from a representative consumer tended to come into contact externally with the parts of the
panel. (e.g.: ISO 11609:2017) [4]. human body (skin, scalp, hair, nails, lips and external intimate
Due to its specific structure, the oral cavity is an important sen- regions) or with the teeth and mucous membranes of the oral
sory organ that must be considered very specifically and indi- cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, per-
vidually with regard to testing for safety and tolerability. The fuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them,
safety assessor takes this into account by considering mucosal keeping them in good condition or correcting body odour.”
contact, increased absorption and oral uptake of ingredients. The delimitation is based on whether a substance or mixture
The guardian function of this area extends beyond the com- is present, on the area of application the intended purpose
minution performance for transport into the nutritional tract and the composition.
by achieving a sensory effect. Since oral communication also
takes place via this area, it is of great importance in human Delimitation with regard to substance / mixture
relationships regarding visual perception. Tooth brightness is When assessing tooth floss, it should be noted that tooth floss
dominated by the colour quality of the enamel, the quality as such cannot be a substance [6] or mixture and therefore
of contact with persons in oral communication and is also cannot be a cosmetic product. However, it can be a carrier of
modulated by an olfactory component. The cosmetic means a mixture of substances which can be classified as a cosmetic
now serves to fulfil both the objective and subjective criteria product. If cosmetic purposes are claimed for coated dental
of gaining charismatic appeal. Due to these specifications, the flosses, this leads to a classification of the mixture used for
special white quality of the teeth and pleasant fresh smell coating as a cosmetic product.
from the oral cavity have culturally established themselves as
necessary requirements for oral cosmetic products. Delimitation with regard to the place of application
Advertising claims always aim to make the condition of this Cosmetic products are in principle to be applied externally.
area appear empathetic and attractive beyond the reality. The The only exceptions to external application are the teeth and
following table is intended to provide assistance in presenting the mucous membranes of the oral cavity, which are explicitly

10/22 | 148 | sofwjournal 47

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Personal Care | oral care |

mentioned in the definition. Products whose function extends can be prevented by effective oral care is therefore obvious,
beyond the oral cavity, for example, into the throat (= gar- but not possible without restrictions. It should be pointed out
gling), cannot be cosmetic products. that products which are designated as means for the treat-
Products for cleaning and care of (removable) dentures are also ing or prevention of diseases according to Directive EC No.
not cosmetic products. They are to be classified as medical devices. 83/2001 [7] (EU Medicinal Products Directive) are medicinal
Another borderline case is dental care products for chewing products. Also, according to the Austrian Medicinal Products
and in the form of tablets [6]. Here, provided that the product Act (BGBl. Nr. 185/1983) [8] products that are intended to
fulfils a cosmetic purpose, the delimination from food is de- cure or alleviate or to prevent diseases or pathological com-
cisive. Foodstuffs are intended to be ingested. The definition plaints are medicinal products. Products that fulfil the defi-
for food is not linked to any intended purpose, that’s why the nition of a medicinal product are exclusively subject to the
purpose is not decisive for delimination from cosmetics, but the provisions of the Medicinal Products Act and therefore cannot
question of whether the substances are ingested (orally). A dis- be cosmetic products. It is thus clear that products with claims
tinction has to be made whether the substances are swallowed to cure, heal or alleviate disease but also to prevent diseas-
unintentionally (as is the case with toothpastes) or intentionally es cannot be cosmetic products. A critical question is how
(normally food). It is also important to consider whether the to distinguish protection from disease (note: to protect is a
substances are spit out again or possibly absorbed through the use mentioned in the cosmetic definition) from prevention (a
mucous membranes of the oral cavity. Dental care tablets are term used in medicinal products law). Usually, products with
generally not cosmetic products due to their intended (oral) in- an exclusive or predominant purpose “protection against dis-
gestion. Dental gums remain a grey area and must be assessed eases” cannot be accepted as cosmetic products. However,
on a case-by-case basis. However, if dental care chewing gums toothpastes primarily fulfil the function of cleaning due to
as cosmetic products comply with all requirements of the EU their inherent properties, therefore additional (subordinate)
Cosmetics Regulation or as foodstuffs comply with the provi- claims “protection against caries” or “protection against gum
sions of food law, the classification of the responsible person is problems” are accepted as permissible advertising claims in
usually accepted by the Austrian authorities. German-speaking countries. It is recommended to avoid
terms from the pharmaceutical legislation such as “preven-
Delimitation with regard to the intended use tion” (but also “prophylaxis”) and not to advertise a protec-
In the case of dental and oral care products, the distinction tive function for other pathological conditions that cannot be
from medicinal products or medical devices plays a special achieved by normal dental care. It should also be noted in this
role. It is indisputable that effective care of the teeth and oral context that other EU member states do not accept a claim
cavity contributes to keeping them in good condition. Claims such as “protection against caries” on cosmetic products.
on pathological changes of the teeth, gums or oral cavity that Claims for the alleviation (e.g.: pain, bleeding gums...), treat-

Efficacy tests Examples of methods (non-exhaustive) Opportunities for claims/Examples of advertising statements

Determination of the dentin abrasion value (RDA) on

Abrasiveness RDA 30
dentin samples from bovine teeth
Cleaning value of pellicle cleaning ration (PCR) on
Cleaning effect on teeth Cleans / gentle cleaning / cleans intensively
enamel samples from bovine teeth
Tongue cleaning, Reinigung der Zunge,
Zahnärztliche Expertenbeurteilung
oral cavity cleaning Reinigung der gesamten Mundhöhle
Plaque removal Plaque staining tablet, dental assessment Reduces plaque
Testing of the bactericidal effect in the quantitative
suspension test (phase 2 / step 1) EN 1276:2019 1
(but does not break up biofilm)
Requirements for the verifiability of claims for an
Antibacterial effect Counteracts plaque and caries-causing bacteria
antibacterial/antimicrobial effectiveness of cosmetic
products: at least 2 log levels (position paper of the
DGK specialist group microbiology and Industrial
hygiene, as of June 2017)
Measurement of the pH Potentiometrics (applicable for aqueous/surfactant
Claims such as pH neutral, product adjusted to pH 7
of the formulation formulations and O/W emulsions)
Tooth shade guide (20 shades),
Teeth whitening For naturally white teeth
L value with manufacturer‘s light
Assessment of bad breath by experts
Reduction of bad breath Against bad breath
under definable conditions
These tests assess the consumer‘s perception of the
Cosmetic acceptance application test, consumer use test product‘s effectiveness and cosmetic properties ba-
sed on parameters that they can observe or feel.

Tab. 1 Evidence of efficacy for tooth and mouth care

48 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

 | Personal Care

Visit us!
ment (e.g.: inflammation, infection) of diseases or pathologi- SEPAWA
cal conditions are in any case not accepted.
Products for the treatment of a dry mouth by stimulating sa-
A127-128
liva production are not cosmetic products, nor are products
that can make plaque visible by staining the teeth.
The use of tooth cleaning powders in professional tooth
cleaning with powder jet devices is primarily for disease pre-
vention. Products for disease prevention fulfil the definition
for medicinal products, thus marketing as cosmetic products

Sculpup
is not possible. TM

Delimitation with regard to the material composition

and specific substances

Fluoride
Fluorides up to 1500 ppm (0.15%) are permitted in cosmet-
Amplifying the
ic products. Certain fluoride gels, fluoride varnishes and also
toothpastes with contents above 1500 ppm may be classified
contours of authentic
as medical devices or medicinal products. beauty
Hydrogen peroxide or hydrogen peroxide
releasing compounds Going beyond the magnitude of
Hydrogen peroxide or hydrogen peroxide releasing com-
C
biology to shape the most
pounds up to 0.1% are permitted in oral care products (in-
cluding mouthwashes, toothpastes and tooth whiteners and M authentic beauty
bleaching products) for general use. If the initial disposal isY

done by a dentist, concentrations up to 6% are permissible. CM

Products with higher contents, for the intended use of aes- MY

thetic tooth whitening, cannot be marketed as medical de-

CY

vices either. Products that are intended to come into contact 100% Natural Origin
(ISO16128)
CMY
with or are introduced into damaged teeth can be classified
as medical devices. K

Certification
Antibacterial agents
The claim of an antibacterial effect is accepted as a secondary
purpose for oral care products as long as the primary purpose
is compatible with the definition for cosmetic products. Anti- Compliance
bacterial agents are commonly used in oral care products to
influence the oral flora in order to keep the teeth and gums
in good condition. However, antibacterial ingredients can also
lead to products being classified as medicinal products. This is
particularly the case if there are drug monographs for active
substances that describe, for example, a use for the treat-
ment of bacterial-induced inflammations of the gums or the
oral cavity. According to a ruling of the European Court of
Justice [9], a pharmacological effect (and thus a criterion for
classification as a medicinal product) can already be present if
there is an interaction of a substance with, for example, bac-
teria in the oral cavity. An interaction of the substance with
cellular components of the user is not necessarily required to
exert a pharmacological effect. The legal dispute concerned
a mouthwash containing 0.12% chlorhexidine. This is also
noteworthy because chlorhexidine is a preservative permit-
ted for cosmetic products with a maximum concentration of
0.3%. However, this limit only applies when used as a preser-
vative and not necessarily as an antibacterial agent.
weareprovital.com

10/22 | 148 | sofwjournal 49

 content
Personal Care | oral care

Evaluation of Fluorides in Oral Hygiene Products (DGKiZ) and the German Society for Preventive Dentistry (DG-
PZM) [13] as well as other experts from Germany, Austria,
The trace element fluoride occurs naturally in many foods, Switzerland and the Netherlands.
but also in mineral and drinking water, and is deposited in These stipulate that from the appearance of the first milk tooth,
the body, especially in the bones and teeth. Along with other teeth should be brushed twice a day with a pea-sized amount
minerals, it ensures the strength of these structures. Fluoride of toothpaste containing 500 ppm or with a rice-grain-sized
has been shown to counteract caries formation by promoting amount of toothpaste containing 1,000 ppm. From the second
remineralisation (“hardening”) through the re-storage of cal- to the sixth year of life, toothpaste with 1,000 ppm should
cium and phosphate from the saliva in the tooth enamel and then be used twice a day in a pea-sized amount.
counteracting demineralisation, even in developing teeth. In But also for adults, the use of fluoride-containing oral care
addition, fluoride inhibits the growth of acid-forming and products is an effective method of caries prevention and re-
thus caries-causing bacteria caused by the consumption of duction. The effectiveness depends on the fluoride concen-
carbohydrates, especially sugar. tration and frequency of use. Different fluoride-containing
The D-A-CH reference values for nutrient intake [10], which products can be used, such as mouth rinses, gels or varnishes
are published jointly by the German (DGE), Austrian (ÖGE) - most importantly toothpastes.
and Swiss (SGE) nutrition societies, serve as a guideline for To sum up, when using different fluoride-containing oral
how much fluoride can be ingested daily. Here, the guideline hygiene products, always make sure that they are used in a
values for total fluoride intake for adults (25 to < 51 years) per coordinated manner.
day are 3.8 mg (men) and 3.1 mg (women) - this value also
applies to pregnant and breastfeeding women.
However, caution is advised when dealing with fluoride in Caries Protection with Fluoride-free Oral Hygiene Products
children up to six years of age. Their bodies tolerate signifi-
cantly lower amounts, which means that acute toxicity symp- There is scientific evidence that fluoride is effective against
toms can already occur at a dose of 5 mg fluoride per kg/KG/ tooth decay from school age onwards. Regular brushing of
day. Therefore, under no circumstances should adult tooth- permanent teeth with fluoride toothpaste prevents caries.
paste be used for infants and small children. The German dental guideline “Caries prophylaxis in perma-
The additional use or ingestion of fluoride is often the trigger for nent teeth - basic recommendations” [14] therefore recom-
numerous controversial public debates. These range from legal mends fluoride toothpaste for caries prophylaxis for adults.
(e.g. characterisation of drinking water fluoridation as compul- However, a large number of fluoride-free toothpastes intended
sory fluoridation in the USA) to toxicological concerns such as for adults and schoolchildren are also available on the market.
the triggering of dental and bone fluorosis, restriction of liver Since the effectiveness of caries prophylaxis for fluoride-con-
and kidney function through systemic intake of fluorides in taining dental care products has been proven, fluoride-free
American adolescents [11] or effects during pregnancy leading products are regularly devalued in comparative product tests.
to a lower IQ of the offspring [12], to publications in which the In terms of the active ingredients they contain, they can be
benefit of fluoridation is doubted altogether. However, experts roughly divided into two groups, although some products
do not see any connection for Europe, because due to the over- also combine both active principles.
all very low systemically ingested amounts of fluoride (no active Antibacterial, mostly plant-based active ingredients such as tea
fluoridation of drinking water), the issue of “acute toxicology” tree oil, black cumin oil, thyme oil, sage, chamomile and rose-
is not relevant. Also, the intake of fluoridated table salt does not mary extracts, extracts of liquorice, amla and aloe vera or propolis
lead to any significant additional exposure to pose a health risk. are supposed to fight harmful bacteria, thus preventing plaque
One of the few adverse effects that exist and are well docu- (bacterial plaque) and tartar and thus protecting against caries.
mented in this context is dental fluorosis, also called dental Mineral components such as healing clay and cleaning agents
fluorosis. This can be recognised by fine whitish spots and made of silicic acid or dicalcium phosphate are supposed to
streaks in the enamel of the permanent teeth. However, more prevent caries by mechanically removing plaque. A group of
noticeable surface damage and discolouration can also occur. dental care products containing hydroxyapatite (nano-hydroxy-
It mostly affects children under the age of 8, where swallow- apatite, micro-hydroxyapatite, zinc-carbonate-hydroxyapatite)
ing toothpaste and/or additional use of oral hygiene prod- is advertised as having a remineralising effect on tooth enamel.
ucts containing fluoride, for example, fluoride tablets over a These ingredients, which are related to natural tooth enamel,
longer period of time can lead to an over-supply of fluoride. are said to remineralise micro-lesions in the tooth enamel and
With regard to tablet fluoridation, it has been increasingly form a protective layer that protects against caries.
recognised in recent years that fluorides act primarily through Many products with antibacterial and/or mineral active in-
direct contact with the tooth surface, i.e. locally. gredients for the mechanical removal of plaque are adver-
This realisation has already been taken into account in the tised with claims such as “protects against caries”, “effec-
recommendations for children concerning the use of flu- tively prevents plaque and caries”, “counteracts plaque- and
oride-containing toothpastes, which were adopted under caries-causing bacteria”, “prevents caries”, “can be used to
the auspices of the German Society for Paediatric Dentistry prevent caries”, “effectively protects against caries”, “con-

50 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

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oral care | Personal Care

tributes... helps protect against caries”, “increases resistance offer any protection against caries. From our point of view,
to caries”, “removes plaque when used regularly, thereby this would at least be desirable.
preventing the formation of tartar, gingivitis and caries”, Products containing hydroxylapatite occupy a special position.
“prevents caries and tartar formation” or “provides effective One manufacturer claims that “hydroxyapatite toothpaste
protection against caries”. These can give consumers the im- protects against caries just as well as fluoride toothpaste with
pression that the protective effect is sufficient for effective amine fluoride and stannous fluoride”. This statement and
caries prophylaxis when these products are used alone. the evidence published on it [15] are currently the subject of
However, this is contradicted by the German dentistry guide- controversial scientific debate.
line. According to this guideline, there is insufficient evidence In a court case, it was decided [16] that the effect of hydroxy-
from well-designed clinical studies on the caries prophylactic apatite alone against caries and erosion is not sufficiently
efficacy of mechanical biofilm removal through tooth brush- proven. In the opinion of the OLG Düsseldorf [17], the man-
ing alone. The guideline also does not recommend the use of ufacturer’s evidence brought into the proceedings does not
chemical compounds other than fluoride (e.g. essential oils, meet the requirements of the EU Cosmetics Regulation.
cetylpyridinium chloride, phenols) in caries prevention.
Against this background, advertising claims that give the im- Effectiveness of Ingredients
pression that fluoride-free dental care products, when used
alone, offer effective caries protection, are to be judged as A large repertoire of ingredients of plant and synthetic origin
not conforming to the requirements of the Claims Regula- is available for dental care. The difficulty is that the efficacy
tion, as long as the effectiveness is not proven by sufficient attributed to the raw material can be modified or completely
and verifiable evidence. lost through processing. On the other hand, substances that
In our view, it is also problematic if, in addition to the ad- have proven their worth are certainly capable of significantly
vertising claim of caries protection, it is pointed out that the improving the cosmetic benefit. This applies to both synthetic
product is recommended with sufficient fluoride supply. The substances and plant extracts. To illustrate the difficulty of cor-
latter is hardly likely to be assessable by consumers. rect classification, here are two examples, depending on the
In the case of products that do not claim to have a preventive concentration of use and the galenics, different effects result.
effect against caries, there is also no warning that they do not –  Menthol is used medicinally to relieve cramps in the gastro-

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10/22 | 148 | sofwjournal
www.sepawa-congress.com tions in th 51
 content
Personal Care | oral care

intestinal system; in corresponding formulations it serves to Dr. Annemarie Burkhard

increase bile flow, to relieve cramps; or it is also used as an (former Landesuntersuchungsamt Rheinland-Pfalz)
anti-inflammatory for the upper respiratory tract: the cosmet- Erhard Diwald (Plantapharm GmbH)
ic application is particularly devoted to flavouring and fresh- Dr. Karin Gromann (Österreichisches Bundesministerium
ening the oral cavity. für Gesundheit)
–  Sage extract is used in appropriate concentrations and prepa- Dr. Sheida Hönlinger (SGS Institut Fresenius GmbH)
rations against inflammatory diseases of the oral cavity and its Andrea Keck-Wilhelm (Chemisches und
mucous membrane and is used in cosmetic products such as Veterinäruntersuchungsamt Karlsruhe)
toothpaste to tighten the skin areas touching the teeth. Dr. Erich Leitner (ELC – Erich Leitner Consulting)
A claim is permissible if an effect is proven for the finished Dr. Ludger Neumann (L‘ Oréal Deutschland GmbH)
product in accordance with the specifications of the Claims DI Gregor Özelt (Österreichische Agentur für Gesundheit
Regulation. In this context, it must be taken into account that, und Ernährungssicherheit GmbH)
for example, itching or reddening may be part of an existing Dr. Ines Sellami (SGS Institut Fresenius GmbH)
disease which requires medical treatment or may represent a Marion Strasser (SPAR Österreichische Warenhandels-AG)
temporary sensitivity disorder (without a disease-related back-
ground) which is usually caused by external influences and References:
which can be eliminated by the use of a cosmetic product. [1] SOFW Journal Seifen, Öle, Fette, Wachse,145 (2019), S. 66
The supplier usually declares the basic properties of the herbal or [2] Verordnung (EG) Nr. 1223/2009 des Europäischen Parlamentes und des Rates
synthetic raw material and provides corresponding evidence; the vom 30. November 2009 über kosmetische Mittel

cosmetic effect achieved must be demonstrated on the product. [3] Verordnung (EU) Nr. 655/2013 der Kommission vom 10. Juli 2013 zur Festlegung
gemeinsamer Kriterien zur Begründung von Werbeaussagen im Zusammenhang
mit kosmetischen Mitteln

[4] ISO 11609:2017 Zahnheilkunde – Zahnreinigungsmittel – Anforderungen,

Tooth Whitening Products Prüfverfahren und Kennzeichnung

[5] Technical document on cosmetic claims agreed by the sub-working group

With the realisation that the brightness of the mouth region on Claims (version of 3 July 2017) (https://ec.europa.eu/docsroom/docu-
ments/24847)
is considered advantageous in personal contact, the need to
[6] Manual of the working group on cosmetic products (sub-group on berderline
positively shape the brightness of this area by utilising the products) on the scope of application of the cosmetics regulation (EC) No.
light reflection on the tooth surface arises. Influences that re- 1223/2009 (Art. 2(1)(A) Version 5.2 (September 2020) https://ec.europa.eu/
docsroom/documents/42850
duce this brightness are coffee, black tea and smoking. Age
[7] Richtlinie 2001/83/EG des Europäischen Parlaments und des Rates vom 6. Novem-
and specific medications also have a more lasting effect on ber 2001 zur Schaffung eines Gemeinschaftskodexes für Humanarzneimittel
the brightness of the teeth. [8] Bundesgesetz vom 2. März 1983 über die Herstellung und das Inverkehrbringen
von Arzneimitteln (Arzneimittelgesetz)
The effect of the substances that reduce brightness occurs
[9] Urteil des Europäischen Gerichtshofes vom 05.10.2012 - C-308/11
through accumulation and direct interaction with the enamel.
[10] https://www.dge.de/wissenschaft/referenzwerte/fluorid/
Care with abrasive toothpastes is the simplest measure for
[11] Ashley J Malin, Corina Lesseur, Stefanie A Busgang, Paul Curtin, Robert O.
whitening. Whitening that goes beyond this physical-me- Wright, Alison Sanders, Fluoride exposure and kidney and liver function among
chanical process is achieved by chemical means: adolescents in the United States: NHANES, 2013–2016, Environment International
doi.org/10.1016/j.envint.2019.105012, August 2019.
Bleaching chemicals for teeth are based on their oxidative ef-
[12] Rivka Green, Bruce Lanphear, Richard Hornung, David Flora, Angeles Marti-
fect. Originally, oxalic acid was used (as early as 1877), and nez-Mier, Raichel Neufeld, Pierre Ayotte, Gina Muckle, Christine Till, Association
subsequently the effectiveness of hydrogen peroxide was dis- Between Maternal Fluoride Exposure During Pregnancy and IQ Scores in Offspring
in Canada, JAMA Pediatrics doi:10.1001/jamapediatrics.2019.1729, August
covered. A further insight was provided by the application of 2019.
hydrogen peroxide releasing substances such as carbamide [13] https://www.dgpzm.de/neue-empfehlungen-fuer-kinderzahnpasten-mit-fluorid
peroxide. The application is in the form of doped plastic strips [14] https://www.awmf.org/uploads/tx_szleitlinien/083-021l_S2k_Kariesprophy-
laxe_2017-03.pdf
or also in the form of ready-made pastes. Other technical aids
[15] https://opendentistryjournal.com/VOLUME/13/PAGE/274/FULLTEXT/
are custom-made dental trays that are doped with gel-like for-
[16] https://www.zm-online.de/archiv/2018/22/titel/wirkt-es-oder-wirkt-es-nicht/
mulated oxidising agents and can be worn for hours at a time.
[17] https://openjur.de/u/2174196.html
The effectiveness of whitening agents, which are market-
ed as cosmetic products, is therefore primarily based on the
thorough mechanical and/or oxidative cleaning of the tooth Author
surface. All measures that lead to a structural change of the
enamel or the tooth substance are in any case outside the
GÖCH Arbeitskreis „Cosmetic Claims“
scope of the cosmetic agent.
Arbeitskreisverantwortliche
Dr. Sheida Hönlinger
Acknowledgement
Director, Health Science, Cosmetics & Hygiene, Health and Nutrition
The Society of Austrian Chemists (GÖCH) would like to thank the
SGS Institut Fresenius GmbH | Fritz-Atz Str. 8 | 6300 Wörgl | Austria
following contributors to the working group „Cosmetic Claims“ [email protected]
for their cooperation in this publication (in alphabetical order):

52 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

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fragrances | Specialties

Exploring Sustainability Claims: Biodegradable Fragrances

Stampa Alberto, Pájaro Marta

abstract

W ith consumers increasingly concerned about sustainability, and new claims constantly arriving on the market, Kao Chemicals
Europe investigates what should be taken into account to create a biodegradable fragrance. The differences between an-
aerobic and aerobic biodegradation are stated, as well as the different aerobic biodegradation methods that can be used and the
classification according to the results of this test. The OECD Ready Biodegradability tests are explained in more detail to better un-
derstand how to determine the biodegradation of a substance. After all of this, it is explored when a fragrance can be considered
biodegradable, although it is not currently implemented at a legislative and mandatory level, and what should be done to pursue
and push this kind of claim into the market. Finally, some actions taken in the regulatory field regarding the biodegradation topic
in personal care and home care formulations are outlined to exemplify how this type of claim is gaining momentum.

Introduction Anaerobic and Aerobic Biodegradation

In recent years there has been an undeniable growing ten- Going into more detail on this matter, a clear distinction
dency to talk about sustainability in most industry articles must be made between anaerobic and aerobic biodegra-
and studies around the world. The term “sustainability” is dation. Anaerobic biodegradation occurs without oxygen,
a trending topic in all sectors and this is not only imposed where microorganisms have to use other elements available
by the industry itself and the consumers, but also by the au- in the environment to perform the process of respiration and
thorities, who follow the market demand. A clear example consumption of nutrients. On the contrary, aerobic biodeg-
of this can be seen in Europe with the appearance of the radation occurs in normal conditions, where oxygen plays a
European Green Deal, since one of its main goals is to boost major role and is used by microorganisms for respiration and
innovation for safe and sustainable chemicals. the consumption of nutrients.
Nowadays, there is no specific definition of sustainability, The main condition found in the environment is aerobic and
and multiple concepts can fall within this general term. It it is also the first step in a water treatment plant. Aeration
is quite difficult to define this term because sustainability is performed in sewage plants, where water is treated in a
encompasses the entire life cycle of a product and many dif- large aeration tank under continuous stirring to stimulate
ferent variables must be considered. Sustainability starts in aerobic biodegradation. Therefore, if the substance used is
research and development departments, where technicians aerobically biodegradable, complete biodegradation will oc-
have to design products based on the raw materials and cur before entering into the anaerobic process, which is the
production processes that will have less impact on the envi- second step found in a water treatment plant, as sludge is
ronment, until the end of their life, when the impact on the precipitated. Due to this, in Kao Chemicals we believe that
ecosystems should be studied to avoid any kind of harmful the future does not depend on anaerobic biodegradation
or alteration. and this is why we focus this paper and our main develop-
From Kao Chemicals, we consider that one of the most ments on studying aerobic biodegradation.
important aspects to be aware of when talking about sus-
tainability is the emission of persistent or bio-accumulative
substances to the environment, which is not legislated as Aerobic Biodegradation Test
such in countless market sectors, including cosmetics. In this
regard, the biodegradation of the substances we use to pro- Aerobic biodegradation can be measured through an easy
duce our fragrances is essential. Fragrances are used in a process but, as the characteristics of substances or mixtures
wide range of products which will end in nature at the end may differ, several biodegradability tests have been developed
of their life. For this reason, work begins with the develop- to determine whether a chemical substance is potentially eas-
ment of fragrances where biodegradable ingredients must ily biodegradable or not. Furthermore, as the industry is evolv-
be used in order to avoid any accumulation when their get ing and new substances with completely different character-
to the different ecosystems. istics are appearing on the market, new tests are also being

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Specialties | fragrances

developed in order to adapt to each condi- Suitability for compounds which are:
Test Analytical method
tion. An example of this test variation can poorly soluble volatile absorbing
be seen in Table  1, where all OECD Ready DOC Die-Away Dissolved organic
- - +/-
Biodegradability tests are listed. As it can (301 A) carbon
be seen, suitability differs according to the CO2 Evolution Respirometry:
+ - +
different chemical characteristics. From (301 B) CO2 evolution
MITI (I) Respirometry:
the table it can be inferred that informa- + +/- +
(301 C) oxygen consumption
tion on the solubility of chemicals, vapor Closed Bottle Respirometry:
+/- + +
(301 D) dissolved oxygen
pressure and adsorption characteristics is Modified OECD Screening Dissolved organic
- - +/-
essential to select the most appropriate (301 E) carbon
Manometric Respirometry
method for the sample.This leads to the Oxygen consumption + +/- +
(301 F)
conclusion that biodegradation can differ
considerably between substances. Tab. 1 Applicability of ready biodegradability test methods, from OECD guidelines

• Surfactant degradation is generally characterised by mul-

Biodegradable Categories for Chemicals tiphase kinetics that may be inevitable with a mixed mi-
croflora and possibly a multi-component substrate.
Based on these tests results, there are “Readily biodegradable • Some surfactants yield, during the degradation, inter-
chemicals”, which are those that are rapidly and completely mediate metabolites which may have catabolic kinetics
biodegraded in a short period of time, and “Inherent biode- (rates) different from the parent product.
gradable chemicals”, which do not achieve rapid biodegrada- • Some metabolites interfere with the degradation process
tion but are biodegradable in a longer time, and “Not readily by inhibiting transformation of the parent molecule.
biodegradable chemicals”, that, as its name indicates, do not
degrade when they are emitted into the environment and are Another point to take into account is the variability of the test.
long-lasting substances. As mentioned above, it has a low reproducibility not only be-
cause of the intrinsic nature of the concept, but also due to the
different range of microorganisms that an inoculum can contain
The OECD Biodegradable Test or the variability of the conditions. The results can differ con-
siderably between the tests or even the same test performed
In OECD Ready Biodegradability tests specifically, the biodeg- in different laboratories or at different times. Due to this poor
radation of a substance is determined in 28 days and, at the reproducibility, biodegradation is the only ecotoxicological test
end of the test, the biodegradation of the sample must reach that can be repeated in order to select the higher value of the
a pass level of 70% in Dissolved Organic Carbon methods performed experiments. This is the reason why we consider that
and a 60% in Respirometry methods. In addition, these pass results should be only given as “Readily Biodegradable” or “Bio-
level values must be reached in a 10-day window within the degradation > 60%”, to avoid any comparison between values
28-day period of the test. This means that, when the sample that do not provide any added value and can be misleading.
has reached 10% of biodegradation, it is considered that the
microorganisms have adapted to the test conditions and the
biodegradation of the substance has started; it must be biode- Biodegradable Fragrances
graded above pass levels within 10 days and before day 28 of
the test [1]. If the substance does not pass the 10-day window At Kao Chemicals, we consider that biodegradation is an ex-
but is biodegraded above pass levels within 28 days, it is con- tremely important concept. For this reason, and although it is
sidered an “Inherent biodegradable chemical”. This distinction
is shown as an example in Figure  1, which also shows the re-
sults of degradation other than microbial. Biodegradation is a
type of degradation where microorganisms play an important
role and they break down the substance by its enzymatic activ-
ity. That is why in the graph we always detect that biodegrada-
tion does not start immediately. However, when an ingredient
breaks down by itself or by other external factors such as the
sun or temperature, the process starts from day 1.
The 10-day window does not apply to all substances. Surfac-
tants, for example, are exempt due the fact that they occur
as closely related homologues and isomers with a very similar
Fig. 1 Theorical example of biodegradation results (belongs to the
biodegradability profile and there are many conceptual and
OECD Biodegradable test part)
technical reasons to support the exemption [2].

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not implemented at a legislative and mandatory level, we are In other contexts, few chemical industry sectors have taken
committed to offering fully biodegradable products and our fra- the initiative to regulate the biodegradation of the ingre-
grances are a clear example of Kao’s sustainability vision. Cur- dients. This is the case of detergency regulation in Europe,
rently, there is not a full definition of the requirements to be met which requires rapid biodegradation of all the surfactants
by a fragrance to be considered biodegradable, but the biodeg- used in a detergent formula, or even more recently, the EU
radation of these complex mixtures can be known by testing the Ecolabel, which is the official European Union voluntary la-
fragrance itself or by theoretical determination, on the basis of bel for environmental performance certification and labelling
biodegradation data of the raw materials it is composed of. widely used around the world, that goes beyond and extends
However, following the inherent constraints of the biodegra- the restriction, not only forbidding non-biodegradable surfac-
dation methods mentioned above, our experts consider that tants, but also limiting the utilization of any other non-biode-
in a complex mixture such as a fragrance, with a large number gradable organic substance. In its cosmetic standard, aerobic
of ingredients, it is difficult to determine a priori the result of biodegradation it’s not the only one required for surfactants
the biodegradation test when the fragrance is tested. There- but also the anaerobic. In addition, until the last version of the
fore, we believe that the best option to ensure the biodeg- Cosmetics Ecolabel Standard, all fragrances were considered
radation of a fragrance is to use only readily biodegradable inherent following the DID list. But now, in order to demon-
raw materials in the formulation, based on the data suppliers strate that the fragrance is biodegradable and facilitate the
have about the biodegradability of their raw materials. With certification of the final formulation, it is specified that the
this methodology, we will avoid the bioaccumulation or per- companies involved can justify the biodegradability of the
sistence of any of the ingredients in the fragrance into the mixture by providing specific data for the ingoing substances
environment at the end of its life. Also, as an advantage, this of the fragrance or by a test result of the fragrance itself.
gives more flexibility to perfumers when it comes to future This tendency can also be seen in regulating the biodegra-
regulations as biodegradability can be considered during the dation in the EU Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability (CSS),
creative process. which is aimed at avoiding not only ingredients dangerous
To fulfil our commitment, we have developed an exhaustive for health, but also not environmentally-friendly substances,
database, integrated into our computer systems, which doc- and this includes the non-biodegradable ingredients used in
uments the biodegradation of the perfumery palette taking a formulation.
as biodegradable only the raw materials that are readily bio- An analysis of the perfumery market shows that there is still
degradable. Using this new system, our R&D Department is a lot to do. Consumers do not yet have much knowledge
able to create new and disruptive biodegradable fragrances. about fragrance composition, so they are not in a position to
Regardless of the method, perfumers face some issues while understand how fragrances affect the environment and what
formulating because, as far as our experts know, many in- a sustainable fragrance can be. It is up to the industry and the
gredients are not biodegradable or their biodegradation is authorities to clearly define what is needed in this field.
unknown. For example, in our perfumery palette, this infor- As mentioned, biodegradation is not the only way to define
mation is missing for most of the natural substances and es- sustainability, but it plays an important role within the different
sential oils and therefore cannot be used. However, we know aspects of this concept. In the industrial world in which we live,
that some interesting key raw materials used in fragrances all sectors must work in order to avoid the accumulation of
are biodegradable, due to the fact that they are manufac- substances in the environment, so that it can be preserved, and
tured in-house, such as AMBROXAN®, MDJ, or ALDEHYDE biodegradation is the only way that we can use to assure it.
C/10 among others, and therefore we have performed the
biodegradation test. Thus, the democratization of this type References:
of information from the suppliers’ side will help to have more [1] OECD, OECD Guideline for testing of Chemicals; https://www.oecd.org/chemical-
safety/risk-assessment/1948209.pdf
variety of raw materials that can be used to formulate under
[2] CESIO, The Relevance of the 10d Window in the Context of the Assessment of
these conditions and therefore boost sustainable launches in
ready Biodegradability for Surfactants. March 2008; https://www.cesio.eu/index.
the market around the concept and claim of biodegradable php/information-centre/document-library/position-papers/1-the-relevance-of-the-
10d-window-in-the-context-of-the-assessment-of-ready-biodegradability-for-sur-
fragrances. factants/file

Conclusions authors

From the perfumer’s perspective, the industry should move

Stampa, Alberto (Product Safety & Regulations Technician)
towards declaring the biodegradable properties of raw mate-
Pájaro, Marta (Product Safety & Regulations Technician)
rials. This would allow for extensive knowledge of which raw
Kao Chemicals Europe, S.L.U. |Puig dels Tudons, 10 |
materials are ready, inherent or are not biodegradable and fa-
08210 BARBERÀ DEL VALLÈS (Barcelona) | SPAIN
cilitate the formulation of fragrances with 100% biodegrad-
[email protected]
able ingredients, as this current lack of information limits the http://www.kaochemicals-eu.com
perfumer’s creative palette.

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Specialties | packaging

The Search for Suitable Packaging for Cosmetics – a Case Study

Phil Rosenow, Elisabeth Destler, Arielle Springer

abstract

C osmetic products contain active ingredients that are intended to nourish, repair or protect the skin from negative influences.
To ensure that these active ingredients remain undamaged on their way from the producer to the consumer and during
application, an ideal compatibility of formulation and packaging is necessary. However, there is an increasing demand for re-
cyclable, recycled, bio-based or overall more sustainable packaging. Can these packaging materials provide the same protective
function as conventional packaging materials? To verify this, time-consuming stability tests have been conducted to date. With
an innovative shelf-life modeling tool, it may be possible for manufacturers to predict shelf life several months into the future
in just a few moments.

Formulation Protection The aim is not necessarily to obtain a completely imperme-

able package. This would involve a high material cost, which
Botanicals are becoming more and more popular among both is unjustified for many products. Instead, the barrier should
producers and consumers. The range of possible ingredients is be chosen to ensure that the relevant processes occur slowly
wide and the modes of action on the skin and on the product enough to achieve the desired shelf life. Shelf life is defined
are diverse. Many extracts containing secondary plant com- by the Cosmetics Regulation as the time until which the cos-
pounds are used as antioxidants or claim ingredients. However, metic product fulfills its original function and is safe when
these ingredients can lose their properties and contribute to properly stored. The function results from the information
the oxidation of other components due to exposure to light, marked on the packaging, such as the advertising claims. The
oxygen and temperature during storage. The main oxidizable quality of the ingredients, which are largely responsible for
components in the lipophilic phase of a simple emulsion are the the advertising claims, should therefore be maintained during
unsaturated lipids and the fat-soluble antioxidants. Oxidation the shelf life. However, the type of material has a significant
of these ingredients causes the emulsion to lose not only its influence on the oxidative quality preservation of the prod-
antioxidant benefits but also its dermatological benefits. Lipid uct, because the barrier properties against gases depend on
oxidation generally occurs earlier and faster in emulsions than the material and its processing (degree of crosslinking and
in normal oils [1]. One reason for this is that there is a large orientation in the case of polymers) and on the ambient con-
interface between the oil and water phases, which increases ditions (temperature, humidity). Light protection represents a
the contact between unsaturated fats and oxidation promoters special case: here it is important to “cut off” the relevant part
in the aqueous phase, such as metal ions [2]. The dimension of the light spectrum, which can be achieved by materials or
of lipid droplets also plays an important role in the process of printing that are opaque in the relevant spectral range. Here,
lipid oxidation [3]. Due to the large interface in emulsions, the sufficiently low transparency is very important [5].
protected oil phase in O/W emulsions becomes accessible to
oxygen dissolved in the outer aqueous phase. This mainly in-
fluences oxidation when the oxygen within the oil phase has Challenges of Sustainable Packaging
already been consumed [4]. Oxidation under the influence of
light, oxygen and temperature can result in rancid off-flavors or Despite the high product requirements, recyclable and sus-
alter the effect of ingredients on the skin. tainable packaging is demanded by political guidelines and
manufacturers and consumers with higher environmental
awareness. Biopolymers or recyclable or recycled monomate-
Ideal Packaging rials are therefore in demand, but they offer different barrier
properties than conventional multilayer packaging. The qual-
To prevent this, packaging is specifically selected according ity of the product can be affected by the influence of light
to the requirements of the products in terms of light protec- and oxygen. For this reason, special consideration must be
tion and oxygen and water vapor barrier. The choice is made given to the light and oxidation sensitivity of the bulk, the
for those packaging materials that best protect the product. light and gas permeability of the packaging material and the

56 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

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packaging | Specialties

wall thickness of the packaging when selecting the packaging

material for the desired shelf life. Up to now, this has been Dr. rer. nat. Phil Rosenow
systematically tested in practice in time-consuming stability studied chemistry at Philipps University Mar-
burg, earned a PhD in computational chem-
tests, which requires a great deal of personnel, equipment istry, and gained experience in mathematical
and material resources. With the help of so-called digital simulation at the Arizona Center for Mathe-
modeling tools, product quality in selected packaging materi- matical Sciences. He works as a materials de-
velopment scientist at Fraunhofer IVV using
als at selected temperature conditions can be predicted over digital methods to match packaging and per-
the shelf life, supporting sustainable packaging selection spe- ishable goods.
cifically for each individual product. Such a shelf-life modeling
tool has been developed by researchers at the Fraunhofer IVV.
Get more information on Shelf-Life-Modelling:

The Case Study

Dipl.-Leb.Chem. Arielle Springer
In order to test the applicability of the shelf-life modeling studied food chemistry at the Technical Uni-
versity of Dresden and gained professional
tool to cosmetic products, the oxygen consumption kinetics experience as a product developer in the
of natural cosmetic creams on an O/W emulsion basis with cosmetics industry. Together with experien-
various plant extracts were determined and compared. For ced experts, she is currently working as a
business development manager and scientist
this purpose, a cream was prepared, with sunflower oil form- across departments to continuously develop
ing the fat phase. The high content of polyunsaturated fatty the research field of Personal & Home Care at
Fraunhofer IVV.
acids allowed good measurability of oxidation. A base emul-
sion was prepared with 71.4% deionized water, 18% sun- Contact us:
flower oil, 7% glyceryl stearate and 3% glycerol, thickened Tel.: +49 8161 491 470
Mobil: +49 1716 411 383
with 0.2% xanthan gum and preserved with 0.2% potassi- [email protected]
um sorbate. The pH adjustment took place with about 0.2% www.ivv.fraunhofer.de
citric acid. The manufacturing process consisted of suspend-
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ing the oil, emulsifier and xanthan gum and adding deion-
ized water and glycerin. Subsequently, homogenization was
carried out at medium speed (17,500 rpm) for one minute at
80 °C. After cooling, potassium sorbate and citric acid were
added and homogenized again at medium speed for one
minute. The pH was adjusted to 4.3 - 4.5. To obtain the dif-
ferent sample variants, triplicate determinations were each
spiked with 0.50% of the extracts from Citrus, Hemp, Hops
and Riesling and 0.04% of the extracts from Coffee, Citrus
and Riesling (calculated on dry weight). To mix with the ex-
tract, homogenization was again performed for one minute.
A sample without extract served as a reference. The mass of
20 g of each sample was filled as a triplicate determination
into hermetically sealable glass containers with optical oxy-
gen sensor and headspace volume of 300 ml. To remove air
bubbles, the containers were evacuated twice at 100 mbar for
one minute each using a vacuum pump. The emulsions were Fig. 1 Daily oxygen consumption rate [mg / 100 g / d] of emulsions
then stored at 30 °C for 98 days in the absence of light and with different extracts during storage for 98 days at 30 °C without
light
measured weekly. Oxygen uptake was calculated based on
the decrease in the amount of oxygen in the headspace [mg]
relative to the mass of the product [100 g] and served as the uptake rate at which the sensory panel subjects would stop
basis for calculations in the modeling tool. To better assess using the product. The results of the daily zoxygen consump-
product quality, the oxygen consumption rate per day [d] was tion rate and the overall impression are shown in Figure  1.
calculated and correlated with sensory measurements. Olfac- During the investigation, it was observed that the samples
tory perception of various off-flavors and overall impression with Riesling extract (0.5%) showed very low oxidation and
was examined after storage compared to a reference sam- were sensorially indistinguishable from the refrigerated ref-
ple stored cold and sealed, and off-flavors were scored with erence. In contrast, the samples with hops extract (0.5%)
deviations between +1 (perceptibly weaker than reference), showed a significantly higher daily oxygen consumption rate
0 (same as reference, and -1 (perceptibly stronger than refer- than all other extracts. In the overall sensory impression, the
ence). The sensory acceptance threshold indicates the oxygen hops cream was above the acceptance threshold and was thus

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Specialties | packaging

rejected by the subjects. Although the hops bitter substances were tested in the shelf-life simulations on the basis of this ox-
humulones and lupulones are detectable radical scavengers idation process. The dimensions of the packaging determine
and thus inhibit the lipid peroxidation [6], antagonistic oxida- the volume of the headspace and the area over which ex-
tion effects with other ingredients (e.g. preservatives) can also change with the environment takes place. The exchange rate
occur in the product matrix of a cosmetic emulsion, where between the interior of the packaging and the environment is
oxidation is accelerated [7]. Polyphenols in beer are known determined from the area, the thickness and the permeability
as both anti- and pro-oxidants [8]. Also for other secondary to various gases. If the shape and thickness of the packaging
plant compounds from hops like ferulic acid [9], catechol and remain constant, the choice of material alone is decisive, i.e.
quercetin [10] prooxidative effects for higher concentrations permeability. For the actual exchange rate, the difference in
have already been described [11]. partial pressure is also relevant. For the environment, it can
be assumed that the partial pressure of the gases is constant.
This leaves the partial pressure in the headspace as the vari-
Development of a Shelf-life Modeling Tool able that also determines the rate of oxidation. Thus, as a
rule, oxygen in the headspace is first consumed by oxidation
In order to determine the packaging requirements of the processes, whereupon an influx occurs through the packag-
respective product in such special cases and to match them ing. With increasing consumption of oxidizable substance,
with sustainable materials, the oxidation of the creams can the speed of oxidation decreases.
be modeled on the basis of the test results. The modeling
was carried out on the samples reference, Riesling (0.5%) and
hops (0.5%). In the first step, a closed measuring cell was Simulation of Different Packaging Materials
assumed for the packaging, which meant that the available
oxygen was limited to the initial contents of the measuring For the simulation, a bottle and a tube each made of PET, PP
cell. The resulting simulation of the storage tests is shown and the biologically recoverable polymer PBS were calculated.
in Figure  2. It is easy to see that the different formulations
differed not only in the oxidation rate, but also in the capacity
for oxygen uptake. Since the extracts bring more oxidizable
substances compared to the base formulation, the creams
with Riesling and hops extract have a significantly higher ox-
ygen uptake capacity. As a result, oxidation appears faster
at the beginning for both creams with extract than for the
reference. This graph shows that the cream with Riesling ex-
tract approached its capacity limit during storage and did not

Fig. 2 Simulation of the accelerated storage tests of the reference as

well as the cream with 0.5% Riesling and 0.5% hop extract in closed
measuring cells.

oxidize much during the further course of storage, while the

cream with hop extract rose continuously. Therefore, pack- Fig. 3 Simulated oxidation during storage of cream with hop extract
aging should be selected which slows down this oxidation in tubes (top) and bottles (bottom) made of different packaging ma-
process to the level required for the shelf life indication. terials at room temperature. An estimated perception limit is drawn
in red.
This is why, in the next step, various packaging scenarios

58 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

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The conventional PET is in the medium performance range tematic laboratory tests. Even packaging conversions to more
here. For PP, a low level was used here, which would be expect- sustainable materials can be applied to an existing recipe in a
ed, when using for instance recycled material. Here, oxidation matter of moments. In this way, no compromises have to be
progresses occur more rapidly than with the other materials. A made between sustainability and product quality.
PP with better barrier properties would behave more like PET.
PBS has a higher barrier to oxygen than the other materials, so References:
oxidation proceeds more slowly. In these simulations, a tube [1] Springer, A., Platzer, M., Pazurik, P., Kiese, S., Protection against Oxidation.
COSSMA, 7-8 (2022), 24-27.
with a wall thickness of 300 µm and a bottle with a wall thick-
[2] McClements, D. J., Decker, E. A., Lipid Oxidation in Oil-in-Water Emulsions:
ness of 600 µm were assumed, each containing 200 ml of the
Impact of Molecular Environment on Chemical Reactions in Heterogene-ous Food
cream with 0.5% hop extract. By increasing the amount of ma- Systems, Journal of Food Science, 65 (2010), 1270-1282.
terial used in the bottle, the barrier property can be improved [3] Miygawa, Y., Adachi, S., Dispersion and oxidative stability of O/W emulsions and
oxidation of microencapsulated oil, Bioscience, biotechnology, and biochemistry,
without having to rely on coatings that interfere with recycling. 81 (2017), 625-633.
An estimated value for the sensory acceptance limit was drawn
[4] Berton-Carabin, C. C., Ropers, M.-H., Genot, C., Lipid Oxidation in Oil-in-Water
in the graph to show at which point during storage the shelf Emulsions: Involvement of the Interfacial Layer, Comprehensive Reviews in Food
Science and Food Safety, 13 (2014), 945-977.
life was exceeded according to the standards of the investi-
[5] Springer, A., Reinelt, M., Jesdinszki, M., Wunderlich, J., How Can the Right
gating sensory panel. Figure  3 shows an example of how the
Choice of Packaging Materials Prevent a Loss of Quality in Sun Care Products?
oxidation of the cream with hop extract takes place during sim- SOFW Journal, 147 (2021), Nr. 7+8, 30-34.
ulated storage in different materials. [6] Vogel, S. Synthese prenylierter Chalkone aus Hopfen und Bestimmung ihrer
cytotoxischen und antioxidativen Aktivität, Regensburg, Universität Regensburg,
It can be seen that for the recycled PP tube, the sensory ac- Dissertation (2008).
ceptance limit was reached after storage at room temperature
[7] Springer, A., Ziegler, H., The Role of Preservatives and Multifunctionals on the
for between 100 and 150 days, while for the sustainable PBS Oxidation of Cosmetic O/W Emulsions. Cosmetics, 9 (2022), 59.
this did not happen until between 450 and 500 days. For the [8] Wannenmacher, J., Gastl, M., & Becker, T., Phenolic substances in beer: Structural
diversity, reactive potential and relevance for brewing process and beer quality.
bottles, the limit for recycled PP was reached between 150 Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety, 17 (2018), 953-988.
and 200 days, while the bio-plastic PBS would ensure good
[9] Strähmel, A., α-Dicarbonylverbindungen in Würze und in Bier, (2016).
quality even after 600 days. Thus, for transfer to practice, this
[10] Fleschhut, J., Untersuchungen zum Metabolismus, zur Bioverfügbarkeit und zur
means that for the oxidatively sensitive formulation with hop antioxidativen Wirkung von Anthocyanen (Doctoral dissertation, Karlsruhe, Univ.,
extract, a recycled PP tube would only be suitable for a short Diss., 2004).

period of use (approx. 3 months after the production date), [11] Miranda, C. L., Stevens, J. F., Ivanov, V., McCall, M., Frei, B., Deinzer, M. L., &
Buhler, D. R., Antioxidant and prooxidant actions of prenylated and nonprenylat-
while a sustainable PBS bottle should be used for the shelf life ed chalcones and flavanones in vitro. Journal of agricultural and food chemistry,
48 (2000), 3876-3884.
claim of 30 months.

authors
Conclusions
This example successfully demonstrated that the use of shelf-
Phil Rosenow(a), Elisabeth Destler(b), Arielle Springer (a)
life modeling enables the shelf life of a cream to be predicted
individually for different packaging scenarios without the need
(a)
Fraunhofer Institut für Verfahrenstechnik und Verpackung IVV |
Giggenhauser Str. 35 | 85354 Freising | Germany
for time-consuming and equipment-intensive stability tests.
Additional parameters can be integrated into the calculation Hochschule Weihenstephan-Triesdorf, Fakultät Gartenbau und
(b)

at any time, so that the ideal combination between material Lebensmitteltechnologie | Am Staudengarten 10 | 85354 Freising | Germany
type, packaging size, material thickness and shelf life specifica- Corresponding Author: [email protected]
tion can be selected without having to carry out numerous sys-

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Conflicting Goals of Sustainability – How Innovative Primary Packaging

for High-quality Cosmetics is Realized Through the Use of Wood
Lena-Sophie Rehn , Janina Jarothe

abstract

H ardly any other topic has occupied the players in the cosmetics industry as intensively in recent years as the question of sustai-
nability. Regardless of whether new solutions are sought for products, ingredients or packaging, there is no way around an
adequate sustainability consideration these days. Especially with regard to the packaging of cosmetics, there are many different
approaches to solutions that are marketed as sustainable. In order to distinguish greenwashing from genuinely exemplary ap-
proaches, a detailed look and appropriate background knowledge is necessary.
With the aim of establishing all-round sustainable packaging solutions for everyday products, the company rezemo is develop-
ing a unique group of materials under the brand name forewood that consists entirely of bio-based raw materials. The wood
fibre biopolymer composites form a powerful alternative to fossil plastics and thus open up new ways to design packaging in
different applications. The article highlights different approaches to developing sustainable packaging and shows why the use
of wood as a natural product should become part of our daily lives.

Packaging – Curse or Blessing? material. The use of plastic based on fossil raw materials such
as petroleum in various types of packaging is assuming alarm-
It is hard to imagine our everyday life without packaging and ing proportions.
we encounter it in various places, from the bathroom to the Already in 2020, the total mass of plastic on our planet was
kitchen, from the food market to the drugstore. In almost ev- eight billion tonnes, twice the total mass of all living organ-
ery industry, it is hard to imagine a packaged product without isms [4]. What is particularly frightening at this point is that
its protective wrapping as an important component, and the most of the plastic produced was not recycled. A study pub-
cosmetics industry is no exception. After all, what would a lished in 2017 estimates that only 9% of cumulative plastic
skin cream be without its high-quality jar and how would eye waste ever made has been recycled once, and of that, only
shadow look without an appealing palette? 10% has been recycled more than once [5]. To address this,
Although there is already an overwhelming amount of pack- the European Commission adopted the EU Plastics Strategy.
aging in circulation today, its predicted consumption will even The aim is to significantly reduce packaging waste that causes
double in the next 20 years [1]. This is countered by the desire environmental damage [1].
for resource sustainability and ecology in the cosmetics sec-
tor. According to a study by VKE, 61% of consumers see too
much outer packaging as one of the biggest challenges in the
cosmetics market [2].
In the use phase, packaging often fulfils its purpose in an ex-
emplary manner. They protect products and make them stor-
able, loadable and transportable. With different designs and
space for information, packaging also takes on an important
sales function at the point of sale.
But what happens to the cream jar when it is empty; what
happens to the toothpaste tube when its contents are used
up? The end of the life cycle of packaging is often ignored.
The materials used for packaging are often neither reused nor
recycled but dumped in landfills or disposed of improperly [3].

The Plastic Dilemma

To look at the issue of packaging from a sustainability per-
©
rezemo GmbH, based on NABU Bundesverband (2022)
spective, it is necessary to look at the most commonly used

60 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

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packaging | Specialties

In order to protect the environment and society from the neg- up a piece of convenience. The need to return packaging
ative effects of packaging and especially plastic waste, a fun- to a collection point can be a hurdle for customers. This is
damental change is necessary. Therefore, the question arises contradicted by the results of a 2021 study of 2000 UK con-
as to which solution approaches are available to make this sumers. 83% of respondents said they would be willing to
change fair for both the environment and society. switch to reusable packaging [7].
From a sustainability perspective, the premise is: No packag- However, the results of empirical surveys and actual user be-
ing is the best packaging. This is also anchored in the German haviour often differ [8]. So, whether consumers will really
Waste Management Act. The measures described therein are switch to the use of corresponding deposit systems in the
arranged in the order of avoidance, reuse, recycling, other util- long term remains uncertain at the present time.
isation and disposal (§6 para. 1 KrWG). The waste hierarchy is Deposit systems not only pose consumer-oriented challeng-
made clearer by the widespread slogan reduce-reuse-recycle. es, but also technical ones. Behind a functioning deposit
Where avoidance is not possible, suitable approaches must be system lies a complex organisation as well as an extensive
found to make packaging sustainable. infrastructure, which in many cases first must be built up.
To keep as much packaging as possible in the cycle, the in-
dividual types of packaging should be uniform. As a result,
Enabling Multiple Use with Deposit Systems companies are limited in the design of their packaging. De-
spite different challenges, deposit systems are among the
Basically, packaging can be differentiated according to the best options in the field of sustainable packaging solutions.
number of times it is used. Single use and multiple use The choice of materials used in potential deposit systems de-
can be distinguished from each other, whereby the latter is pends heavily on the application. One option is the use of glass
usually preferable from an ecological point of view. packaging. Glass is versatile because packaging made of glass
To make multiple use of packaging efficient, the introduction is inert and therefore does not affect its contents, has good
of deposit systems is suitable. A deposit system is characterised barrier properties, is heat resistant and easy to clean. Moreover,
by the fact that a certain amount as a deposit is collected for glass packaging can already be recycled very well today, so that
the packaging when buying a product. When the product is re- the European Commission has set itself the goal of recycling
turned, the customer receives the corresponding amount back, 70% of the glass disposed of by 2025 [5]. The use of glass
the packaging is cleaned, refilled and the cycle begins again. packaging can also have advantages from a company’s point of
The materials used can thus be kept in the cycle and the con- view. Among other things, products packaged in glass are con-
sumption of new raw materials is avoided. The prime example sidered to be of higher quality than items packaged in plastic,
of deposit systems are returnable plastic or glass bottles, but for example [9]. The disadvantages of glass packaging are that
the first deposit systems are also being set up and expanded in it is often more expensive and heavier than plastic solutions.
the cosmetics industry [6]. Glass is also less flexible to use. For example, glass jars need a
The success of deposit systems depends to a large extent closure that cannot be made of glass and is therefore usually
on the willingness of consumers to make a change and give made of plastic.

the essence of Nature.

the art of perfumery.
www.duellberg-konzentra.de

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Specialties | packaging

collection of plastic waste [10].

To keep plastic in cycle in long term, the quality of the ma-
terials must remain comparable during the recycling process.
Due to the decreasing polymer quality with each recycling cy-
cle, the addition of primary plastic and thus the use of further
fossil raw materials is necessary to meet this requirement. In
2017, only 5.6% post-consumer waste was used in Germany
for the production of new plastic products. In order to pro-
duce packaging of consistent quality, for example, 94.4% of
the material used still had to be fed into the cycle as primary
plastic (virgin material) [11]. The European Commission has set
 ©
rezemo GmbH
a target to recycle half of the plastic waste generated annu-
ally by 2030 [12]. However, this target implies that with an
The Sustainability Promise of Recycling increasing amount of plastic products used, large amounts
will still not be reused.
In many cases, disposable packaging cannot be completely Against this background, the question arises how a natural cycle
dispensed with in the packaging of everyday items at the can be created even without using the known recycling systems.
present time. The reasons for this are manifold and range
from specified hygiene requirements to a lack of infrastruc-
ture for deposit systems. Designing Packaging with Wood Fibers
In order to make even unavoidable disposable packaging
more sustainable, bio-based, recycled and/or recyclable ma- One answer is the use of forewood materials. With a combina-
terials can be used. tion of wood fibres and various bioplastics such as PLA (polylac-
According to the German Waste Management Act, recycling is tide), the company rezemo succeeds in offering a sustainable
“any recovery process by which waste is reprocessed into prod- alternative to products made of fossil plastics under the brand
ucts, materials or substances either for the original purpose or name forewood. Based on the conviction that only renewable
for other purposes” (§3 para. 25 KrWG). The aim is to use raw materials are used, the forewood materials are made of
materials as often as possible, i.e. to keep them in the cycle and PEFC-certified wood fibres, which are waste material from the
thus avoid the use of new (mainly fossil) raw materials. wood processing industry. Instead of energetic utilisation (in-
The EU Plastics Strategy for the Circular Economy also sees cineration), the sawmill waste is thus given a further value-add-
great opportunities in the recycling of plastics [10]. The Eu- ed stage as sustainable packaging. To make the wood fibres
ropean Commission wants to make recycling economically usable for packaging production, biopolymers act as a matrix.
attractive by adopting new regulations and improving the The selected polymers are obtained from renewable raw mate-

 ©
rezemo GmbH, based on Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2016)

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Regardless of how well recycling processes work in reality, there

is another critical aspect of “conventional” plastics. Microplastics
are produced at every stage of the life cycle of plastic products
made from fossil raw materials, from manufacture to use and
recycling [13]. The small particles of less than 5 mm are created
by the physical degradation of plastics due to friction or envi-
ronmental influences and are already found everywhere in the
environment and in living organisms [14]. Research into the ef-
fects of these foreign bodies on ecosystems or living organisms
is currently in its infancy. However, there are serious indications
that microplastics could be harmful to human health [15].
The use of biodegradable plastics, which are also used for the
forewood material group, mitigates this problem. Biodegrad-
ability is characterised by the fact that materials decompose
in chemical processes to predominantly CO2 and H2O. This
means that biodegradable products are integrated into the
natural cycle instead of remaining in the environment in the
 ©
rezemo GmbH
form of permanent microplastics.

rials such as plant starch. The sustainable material is processed

by injection moulding, a particularly material-saving produc- What is behind the term bioplastics?
tion method. In contrast to fossil plastics, which are kept in
the cycle by recycling processes, the forewood materials also fit Bioplastics, as they are also used in forewood materials, are
into a natural cycle due to their ingredients. a topic that has so far been largely ignored by policymakers.

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10/22 | 148 | sofwjournal 63

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They either consist of biobased material, are biodegradable excellent alternative to fossil plastics [18] and are therefore an
or, optimally, both [16]. As already mentioned, biodegrad- important part of the development of sustainable packaging.
able plastics decompose into natural components through
chemical processes. Biobased materials, on the other hand,
are made from natural raw materials such as plant starch and Sustainability Means More than Just Plastic-free
therefore do not contain any fossil raw materials. Packaging
made from bio-based and biodegradable plastics is particular- The sustainability of packaging must be considered on the one
ly attractive from a sustainability point of view, as it is part of hand from the material side, and on the other hand supply
a natural cycle throughout its entire life cycle. routes and value chains have to be taken into account. The
distances to be covered and the energy used in production
make a decisive contribution to the overall packaging product.
With forewood, rezemo GmbH pays attention to sustainability
throughout all stages of the value chain. The supply chain is
transparent, the majority of raw materials as well as machines
and packaging material come from southern Germany and
production is carried out exclusively with green electricity.

 ©
rezemo GmbH

In many applications, the appearance of bioplastics does not

differ from that of fossil plastics, which is why the different
properties are often not intuitively recognisable. In the case
of forewood materials, the wood fibre biopolymer composite
communicates sustainability through its natural appearance
and wood look alone. This makes it easier for customers to
perceive the sustainable alternative at the point of sale.
Instead of using fossil raw materials, plants or organic resi-
dues are used for the production of bio-based plastics. A fre-
 ©
rezemo GmbH
quently cited criticism of bioplastics is therefore the use of
agricultural land that would also be suitable for food produc-
tion. In fact, only 0.0015% of the globally available agricul- Sustainability that Works - Forewood
tural land is currently used for the cultivation of correspond-
ing raw materials [17]. This means that the competition for Sustainability in the field of packaging can be implemented
land between biobased plastics, such as PLA, which is used in different ways, whereby the appropriate solution should be
for forewood materials, and the food industry is negligible. selected according to the concrete application. The areas of
If the waste hierarchy is taken as a basis, bioplastics should application for forewood technology are diverse. On the one
also be recycled. However, this is currently only the case in a hand, packaging that is used once and then disposed of can
few exceptions, as the appropriate infrastructure is still lack- be made more sustainable with the natural materials used. On
ing. For the recycling of bioplastics, sorting plants must recog- the other hand, forewood solutions can also be used in deposit
nise them and processes must be created for their treatment. or refill systems, for example as long-used lids or exchangeable
Especially for the bioplastic PLA, technical solutions already ex- containers for creams. As demand grows, the infrastructure for
ist, for example for sorting (NIR detectability). With a growing recycling bioplastics and thus also forewood materials will be-
amount of bioplastics on the market, recycling also becomes come established, keeping the materials used in the cycle. Even
economically attractive and corresponding investments can be if the recycling of wood fibre biopolymer composites is only
made [17]. Depending on the application, bioplastics can be an realised in practice in a few years’ time, forewood products

64 sofwjournal | 148 | 10/22

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packaging | Specialties

represent a particularly sustainable option in the con-

text of packaging solutions, because the raw materi-
als used are completely bio-based and the products
produced do not contain any fossil-based additives.
With its forewood brand, rezemo GmbH sees itself as
a provider of packaging solutions for the cosmetics,
agricultural and food sectors. Together with sustain-
ability-oriented customers, the company looks for the
ideal individual packaging solution. From the first con-
tact to a feasibility analysis, product design and series
production, every step is accompanied by forewood
experts. This enables the development of packaging
 ©
rezemo GmbH
solutions that are precisely tailored to the customer and
uncompromisingly sustainable. A current example is a [12]    Europäische Kommission (2020. Dezember 2020). Biologische Abbaubarkeit von
joint project with the German natural cosmetics manufacturer Kunststoffen in der offenen Umwelt.
[13]    GESAMP Working Group 40. (2016). Sources, fate and effects of Microplastics in
Kneipp, which will soon be launched on the market. the marine environment: Part two of a global assessment. International Maritime
Organization.
[14]    Liebmann, B., (2015) Mikroplastik in der Umwelt Umweltbundesamt
References:
[15]    Gruber, E., Stadlbauer, V., Pichler, V., Resch-Fauster, K., Todorovic, A., Meisel, T.,
[1] European Commission. (kein Datum). europa.eu. Von https://environment.ec.eu- Kenner, L. (2022), To Waste or Not to Waste: Questioning Potential Health Risks
ropa.eu/topics/waste-and-recycling/packaging-waste_en abgerufen of Microand Nanoplastics with a Focus on Their Ingestion and Potential Carcino-
genicity. Exposure and Health.
[2] VKE. (2020). VKE-Nachhaltigkeitsstudie. Verband der Vertriebsfirmen Kos-
metischer Erzeugnisse. [16] Hann, S., Fletcher, E., Molteno, S., Sherrington, C., Elliott, L., Kong, M.-A., Marti-
nez, V. (2021). Conventional and Biodegerdable Plastics in Agriculture. European
[3] Ellen MacArthur Foundation . (2016). The New Plastic Economy - Rethinking the Commission.
future of plastics [17] European Bioplastics e.V. (kein Datum). european-bioplastics.org. Von https://
[4] Europäische Kommission (2020). Biologische Abbaubarkeit. www.european-bioplastics.org/bioplastics/feedstock/ abgerufen

[5] Geyer, R., Jambeck, J., & Law, K. L, (19. July 2017). Production, use, and fate of [18] Lamberti, F. M., Román-Ramírez, L. A., & Wood, J. (22. June 2020), Recycling of
all plastics ever made. Bioplastics: Routes and Benefits. Journal or Polymers and the Environment

[6] circleback. https://www.circleback.works/ ; Sea me. https://sea-me.com/

[7] IGD (2021). How to help consumers adopt reusable packaging. Institute of
Grovery Distribution and IGD. authors
[8] Clement, Kiy, & Terlau (2014), Nachhaltigkeitsökonomie. Grundlagen und
Fallbeispiele zur ökonomischen, ökologischen und sozialen Dimension der Nach-
haltigkeit. Berlin: Berliner Wissenschafts-Verlag Lena-Sophie Rehn and Janina Jarothe
[9]    Balzarotti, S., Maviglia, B., Biassoni, F., & Ciceri, M (2015), Glass vs. plastic: Affec- forewood by rezemo GmbH | Echterdinger Straße 57 |
tive judgments of food packages after visual and haptic exploration.
[10]    European Commission. (kein Datum). europa.eu. Von https://environment.
70794 Filderstadt | Germany
ec.europa.eu/strategy/plastics-strategy_en#:~:text=The%20EU’s%20plastics%20 [email protected]
strategy%20aims,and%20recycled%20in%20the%20EU.&text=The%20EU%20
adopted%20a%20European,measures%20to%20reduce%20plastic%20waste https://forewood.de/
abgerufen
https://rezemo.de/
[11]    BKV (2018). Stroffstrombild Kunststoffe in Deutschland 2017. BKV.

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Tips from the experts:

Cosphatec‘s Successful Webinar Series Starts Again

7 September onwards. The Hamburg-based compa-

ny will again offer interested parties from all over
the world the opportunity to learn more about
the stabilisation of cosmetic products with natural
alternatives. In addition to the product presentati-
on, information on production, advantages and dis-
advantages in relation to other raw materials as well
as useful tips on formulation are fixed components
of the free webinars. In addition to the information
provided by the Cosphatec lecturers, interactive
surveys for the participants are an integral part of
the webinars. After each webinar, the experts take
the time to answer any unanswered questions from
the participants.

After a short summer break, Cosphatec  GmbH‘s

successful webinar series is starting again. Partici-
pants can look forward to exciting new insights on
many raw materials and products for natural and
sustainable cosmetics.

Since its foundation in 2005, the innovative

Cosphatec  GmbH has been offering high-quality
natural and sustainable raw materials for the cosme-
tics industry. With the aim of replacing questionable The 30-minute webinars always take place on Wed-
ingredients with natural raw materials, the Ham- nesdays, on the #WebinarWednesday established
burg-based company strives not only to establish by the company. Four time slots are offered per date
long-term partnerships with customers but also to in order to enable worldwide interested parties and
pass on its own knowledge in order to o shape the customers to participate. After the event, partici-
industry sustainably together. Since its founding, pants will also have the chance to download the
the company has offered comprehensive customer scripts of the webinar as a PDF or watch the webinar
service, consulting services and extensive tests, such again on-demand. Participation is free of charge,
as preservation load tests, to find the best possible but requires prior registration.
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Further information, the dates of the webinars and
Even before the corona pandemic, Cosphatec GmbH registration can be found here:
was working on the digitalisation of its own pro-
cesses and at the same time created new additio-
nal support services for customers and interested
parties. In addition to expanding online marketing,
such as focusing on relevant social media channels
that impart knowledge to followers with a mix of or at: www.cosphatec.com/webinars/
interactive and entertaining content, Cosphatec
launched its own free webinar series for customers
and interested parties on the topic of „Alternative Cosphatec GmbH
preservation of cosmetic products“. Hopfenmarkt 33
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Driven by the lively participation and the positive Deutschland / Germany
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reactive oxygen species (ROS), also including free
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other: UV radiation and free radicals. up as it is an enzyme and this offers long-term radi-
cal protection. Therefore, the two enzymes in the active
It is known that UV radiation alone is responsible Glorydermal®  GUARD are ideal components for syn-
for about 80% of the visible signs of skin aging. ergistic long-term repair and long-term protec-
UV radiation and free radicals can lead to aging signs
tion to effectively prevent premature skin aging.
like photo aging and wrinkles through DNA damage
and oxidation processes. Therefore, our skin needs a
reliable repair and protection system.

Following nature‘s example, enzymes are ideal com-

ponents for this. They enable and accelerate many
biochemical reactions and have important functions
in the metabolism of organisms. A key feature is that
enzymes are not used up, even over many reaction cy-
cles, and therefore uniquely combine efficiency and
long-lasting effect.

The active ingredient Glorydermal® GUARD contains

a synergistically acting complex consisting of two en-
zymes: the repair enzyme photolyase, which is de-
rived from microalgae, and an antioxidant enzyme in © vegefox.com & © Leonov - stock.adobe.com

the form of an iron peptide. Liposomal encapsulation GloryActives GmbH is your partner for active ingre-
enables improved skin penetration. dients in cosmetics. Our product portfolio includes a
broad spectrum of actives for all fields of cosmetics,
The photolyase repairs UV-induced DNA damage, so-
including natural cosmetics. From natural plant and
called CPDs (cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers), directly
microalgae extracts to synthetic peptides and innova-
without first removing the structural defect according
tive dermal delivery systems.
to the body‘s own repair mechanisms in two steps and
then resynthesising the affected DNA strand of the
In our own active line Glorydermal® we also offer
© Smeljov - stock.adobe.com

double helix.
active developments from our research projects.
Thus, photolyase enables 10 -100 times faster DNA re- Within the umbrella concept Protective Beauty the
pair than the body‘s own repair mechanisms, so that Glorydermal® line covers different actives to protect
this important system can be optimally supported. the beauty of your skin. Stay tuned to discover more!




10/22 | 148 | sofwjournal 
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interview

Skin Care
Interview with Dr. Kristin Neumann,
CEO at MyMicrobiome

Dr. Neumann, why is the skin microbiome important for

humans?
Ein An intact skin microbiome is key for a healthy skin. Our
skin hosts some 1 million micro-organisms and they have
an essential role to play, fostering our immune system and
promoting skin health and beauty. A highly populated, bal-
anced, and diversified skin microbiome builds a strong bar-
rier that actively prevents normal skin from being colonised
by adverse microbes. A healthy skin is vital for our immune Kristin Neumann

system, healthy ageing and our general health condition.

How can cosmetic or personal care products influence can actually take them, cultivate them in the lab and bring
the skin microbiome? them together with the products and see if the product is
A healthy skin microbiome is a balance of many different or- having an impact on those or not.
ganisms, which varies from person to person and across the Our standards utilize in vitro assays to determine which prod-
different areas of the body of each person. ucts influence the growth of these key species, keeping the
There is a natural equilibrium between all organisms that col- experiments standardized and within a controlled environ-
onize our bodymostly bacteria, fungi and yeasts. The presence ment. The testing involves co-cultivation as well as single-or-
of commensal bacteria protects against pathogenic microor- ganism plate assays, and certification is based upon a diverse
ganisms via two mechanisms. They compete for nutrients and set of experiments. If the tested product does not change the
space, which reduces the risk that pathogenic microorgan- in vitro grown skin microbes, it is assumed to be safe and to
isms will proliferate. They may also produce bacteriocins that be Microbiome-friendly.
can kill other bacterial species. Cosmetics may have a delete- A Microbiome-friendly certified product does not interfere
rious effect as some ingredients may upset the skin´s equilib- with the skin´s key-microbiota. It simply leaves it untouched.
rium, allowing colonisation by pathogenic organisms. If this A Microbiome-friendly product respects the balance both on
balance is disturbed it is termed dysbiosis and it can lead to the surface and in the deeper layers of the skin and thus fos-
acne, eczema, dry skin, psoriasis, dandruff, alopecia, skin al- ters the basis for a beautiful, healthy skin.
lergies and asthma. Not only preservatives but essential oils,
surfactants, alcohol or fragrances may also cause dysbiosis. What impact will the topic of the microbiome have on
For now, the best and the least a cosmetic can and should ful- the future development of cosmetic products?
fill, is not to change the existing microbiome of a healthy skin. The microbiome is a hot topic and finally accepted as one
The majority of cosmetics is still harboring strong non-selec- main influential factor on our overall health. This is a posi-
tive antimicrobial properties, which can have some effect on tive movement and goes hand in hand with an increasingly
the skin´s microbiome over time. Not only that, but the cus- health-conscious customer. It is also clear that our skin har-
tomer is layering several products a day. Ideally we would use bours a microbiome, in fact it harbours many different micro-
less and only mild products which are ‘Microbiome-friend- biomes, and that skin problems are always correlated with an
ly’ and thus do not interfere with the existing microbiome. imbalanced skin microbiome.
When looking at cosmetics from the microbiome perspective, To avoid imbalances that could lead to skin concerns, it’s
we need a paradigm shift: instead of searching for the most important to keep interventions in the skin microbiome to
effective, active ingredient, we have to look for low activity a minimum. So, we should strive to make personal care prod-
on the microbiome, given the background that any interfer- ucts as microbiome-friendly as we can.
ence is potentially harmful. Formerly, the cosmetics industry did not take the microbiome
into account, when formulating products, the focus was on
You offer certification for microbiome-friendly cosmetic making products stable and good smelling instead of minimal
products. How does this certification work? and mild. Luckily, this is changing now.
We have different body sites with different ecosystems. We By supporting the cosmetic industry to create and certify
also have different key species on every body site and we Microbiome-friendly products, we act as a change maker in

68 sofwjournal | 148 |10/22

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PRODUCT
INFO
this previously unmonitored market – for a better, Microbi-
ome-friendly world.
NATURAL THICKENER:
In addition to a microbiome-friendly skin care product,
is nutrition also crucial for a healthy skin microbiome? EXCEPARL LM-LC
There is emerging research on the skin microbiome and its
connection with the gut, referred to as the gut-skin axis
and its effects on dermatologic conditions. It is regulated
through several mechanisms such as inflammatory media-
tors and the immune system. Dysregulation of microbiota
has been seen in numerous inflammatory skin conditions
such as atopic dermatitis, rosacea, and psoriasis.
Across the spectrum, the Mediterranean diet is highly re-
garded as a healthy balanced diet. It is distinguished by a
beneficial fatty acid profile that is rich in both monounsat-
urated and polyunsaturated fatty acids, high levels of poly-
phenols and other antioxidants, high intake of fiber and
other low glycemic carbohydrates, and relatively greater
vegetable than animal protein intake. Specifically, olive oil,
assorted fruits, vegetables, cereals, legumes, and nuts; mod- Barcelona, Spain | September, 2022
erate consumption of fish, poultry, and red wine; and a low-
er intake of dairy products, red meat, processed meat and In Personal Care products, the claim of avoiding Sulfates
sweets characterize the traditional Mediterranean diet [1]. is very much related with mild products. However, more
The microbiome will play a key role in defending against frequently the claim is linked to sustainable formulations
diseases in the future. Be it depression, psoriasis, asthma, that do not contain PEG derivatives which originate from
dementia, cancer - research shows that a healthy microbi- petrochemistry and may contain undesirable impurities.
ome as new super organ might be a large proportion of In this context, achieving a product with the desirable vis-
the solution. cosity has become one of the most challenging parts of
the formulation development; conventional electrolytes
MyMicrobiome created the information platform mymi- do not usually work with Sulfate-Free surfactants, natu-
crobiome.info in 2018 and, spearheaded by the founder ral polymers may provide unappealing textures and PEG
Dr. Kristin Neumann, the world‘s first and independent derived surfactants are not an option on this sustainable
certification for Microbiome-friendly products, the „Micro- environment.
biome-friendly“ quality seal with the B2B portal microbi-
ome-friendly.com. At Kao Chemicals Europe we are pleased to offer
EXCEPARL LM-LC (Lauryl Lactate), a natural thickener
Reference: that provides high viscosity levels in most of the common
[1] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5385025/ Sulfate-Free systems. This ingredient not only builds up
viscosity efficiently, but it also ensures a good viscosity
stability with temperature for a long period of time.

Besides the thickening ability, EXCEPARL LM-LC

SUBSCRIPTION also offers additional properties like emolliency and nice
Scientific articles, market research, sensory feelings, which make it an ideal ingredient for a
wide range of applications such as skin care and sun care.
formulations, news from the industry
EXCEPARL LM-LC has a completely eco-friendly profile
and much more!
for being 100% natural, readily biodegradable, 100%
active and cold-processable.
Subscribe to SOFW Journal
[email protected]

www.kaochemicals-eu.com

10/22 | 148 | sofwjournal 69

OPTIMAL
 content
interview

Contaminants in the Production

of Vegetable Oils – We Care!
An interview with Dipl.- ecotrophologist Nadja Liebmann,
freelance consultant and expert for vegetable oil qual-
ity and safety in Hamburg, chairwoman of the expert uct oil, but not for analysis in the raw materials. And it is
certainly not sufficient to be able to identify the sources
group ‘Native Oils and Olive Oil’ of the “Deutschen of these environmental pollutants in the raw material. We
Gesellschaft für Fettwissenschaft“ (DGF) and Martin Geiger, have found in our operating practice: We can certainly find
such environmental contaminants – despite careful raw
Dipl. Food technologist, employee oil manufacture of material control – even in the oils we produce. However,
Naturamus GmbH, member of the expert group “Prod- we have always been able to determine during traceability
ucts and Product Safety” of the “Deutschen Gesellschaft that the raw materials were already the problem, not our
production and the contact materials used in the process,
für Fettwissenschaft“ (DGF). such as seals, etc....In many cases, legal regulations only
apply to what we consider to be end products: The con-
Mr. Geiger, Mrs. Liebmann, why are we talking about tent of polyaromatic hydrocarbons is regulated by law for
contaminants in the production of vegetable oils today? oils. But often not for the raw materials. A sunflower oil
Martin G.: A large number of contaminants accumulate in with too high PAH content is not marketable, but if I use
vegetable oils because, due to the plant physiology, they ac- the contaminated sunflower seeds as a baking ingredient,
cumulate in the fatty tissue of the plant over the vegetation there are no legal restrictions...
period. Plant oils are – if one wants to speak metaphorically
– so to speak the long-term memory of the contamination sit- Is this situation related to Germany or Europe-wide?
uation, because the oil plants accumulate their fatty tissue and Martin G.: Some contaminants – e.g. PAH, mycotoxins – are
therefore do not metabolize it. This means that environmental regulated EU-wide in legislation (EC) no. 1881/2006. But in
contaminants, which are fat-soluble, accumulate over the veg- many cases, new topics are still far from being regulated: min-
etation period and thus only become analytically visible. eral oils, plasticizers.
Nadja L.: On the other hand, this means that the contami- Nadja L.: In Germany we have a very critical reporting of
nants are actually present ubiquitously, just below the analyt- the media, especially regarding mineral oils and plasticizers.
ical detection limit. And because the oils are separated from That is why producers and retail are very sensibilized setting
the rest of the plant during production, these fractions can stronger specifications with (lower) limits than the European
become particularly visible, respective a concentration of the regulations. Unfortunately, out of Europe we have nothing
contaminant in the extracted oil. comparable.

Which contaminants are the most problematic at the What is your assessment: Is the other part of society –
moment? the consumers – aware of the issue?
Nadja L.: Today I would like to set a focus on plasticizers Nadja L.: Awareness is growing. If we want to have a sustain-
and mineral oils (Germany, Europe), but globally there is a ability discussion honestly and practice it socially, the issue of
large variety and quantity of contaminants in our environ- contamination of the environment – and traces of it in our
ment. Due to the similarity of the dissolving behavior, min- food - cannot be neglected. It is very helpful that we can find
eral oils are very difficult to differentiate from the vegetable a lot of these issues in the media and additional product tests
oils and thus to make them analytically accessible. And due by strong consumer magazines.
to the physiology of oil plants, we are dealing with a long Martin G.: If we consider and treat sustainability accord-
accumulation cycle, so that just such actually very highly di- ing to its definition, certain plasticizers with hormone-like
luted outputs accumulate in the oil-containing plant tissue effects, for example, should not be released into the en-
over the vegetation period. Another problematic example vironment at all. And yet these substances are processed
of this mechanism are plasticizers. And because these sub- thousands of tons at a time and end up in the environment
stances accumulate in the fatty tissue of the plants, sur- out of carelessness and convenience. From time to time, in-
prisingly high amounts are found again in the oil produced dividual groups of substances come to our attention. But
from them. these are perhaps only iceberg peaks. It remains to be feared
Martin G.: The problem now is that the accuracy of analyt- that we have a ubiquitous problem below the analytical de-
ical methods is sufficient for analysis in the finished prod- tection limit.

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Where exactly are the quality effects of contaminants enough. A seed may contain just as many mineral oils, but they
on vegetable oils? are not so easily detectable compared to rapeseed oil.
Martin G.: Food has to be safe. So, contaminants are hard
to accept if we don’t know what might happen to us with What are the consequences for cold-pressed or native
them, even in the long run. Safety of the oil is the biggest products?
component of quality. Nadja L.: Cold-pressed or native oils are not extensively pro-
Nadja L.: Plasticizers have hormonal effects, PAHs (formed cessed. By law, they are only processed by pressing without
in incomplete combustion processes or drying processes) and any further pre- and post-treatment. Everything that is in the
3-MCPDs (formed during the refining process) have proven raw material remains in it. Contaminants may still be removed
carcinogenic effects and trans fatty acids are influencing spe- during refining.
cial lipoproteins with promotion of arteriosclerosis. Aflatoxins Martin G.: Particularly valuable oils, such as virgin and cold-
and mycotoxins in general (can arise from inadequate seed pressed oils, are only produced from selected and healthy
preparation and poor storage management) have a negative seeds, but unfortunately may still contain these contaminants.
impact on the health of the liver. Small production quantities have to be analyzed to exclude the
variety of potential substances. In doing so, one can expect
high analysis costs. For a large-scale technique, this amount
can be spread over batch sizes of several million liters. We,
producers of smaller native batches, have to weigh the costs
much more. We lack the analytical and technical capabilities
to perform monitoring prior to production. Analytical safety is
not primary, however. The economics beforehand are relevant.

Then where would we actually have to go to actually

counteract this problem?
Martin G.: The direction of action should be to first create clari-
ty: Where are the substances everywhere that, on closer inspec-
tion, are unnecessary? This could be coatings on cash register
receipts or consumer goods such as hoses. It is very difficult to
find out what materials are made of. So, we need to know what
all the materials we deal with in everyday life are actually made
of, how they affect our immediate environment, what are the
effects and are there alternatives, how much do they cost?
We don’t know a lot of things because no one has ever been
interested in them. Research is a purpose-optimized tool, so we
do research where there is money. People may care if there are
contaminants in the oil, but no one cares where it comes from.
Microanalysis / nanoanalysis is needed to provide more clarity.

What makes Naturamus different compared to the

Business standard in Germany / Europe?
Martin G.: We try to solve the problem already in the or-
igin together with the partners. That would be in the re-
Is the vegetable oils industry particularly affected? lation of the raw materials but also the representation of
What makes vegetable oils stand out in terms of the our view to the customers to work on it in the long term.
risk of contamination? Therefore, we have a conscious approach to the contami-
Martin G.: Oilseeds potentially accumulate contaminants over nants. Holistically!
their entire growing season. This growing season is, of course, We should represent what is important to us and dear cus-
much longer with annual plants. But sunflowers, rapeseed and tomer, what is important to you? We can try to implement
soybeans can also accumulate these substances. This is be- as a service provider what is important to the customer. We
cause the most contaminants are fat-soluble, accumulate there are part of the value chain and responsible for implementing
particularly well and are then present and detectable. Certain what is considered important.
contaminants only become visible in this way. Other contami-
nants are not visible because the detection limits are not high naturamus.de

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interview

What Started Out

as a One-Man-Show …
Interview with Christian Sommer, Managing Director,
SLI Chemicals GmbH

Can you briefly introduce SLI Chemicals as a company?

SLI Chemicals GmbH was founded in 1997 in Frankfurt am Main
by Mr. Stefan Stupp and this year celebrates its 25th anniversary.
The business activities began as an independent sales company of
Sharon Laboratories Israel, one of the world‘s leading manufactu-
rers of preservatives for cosmetic applications. At an early stage, Christian Sommer
the product portfolio was continuously expanded to include fur-
ther raw materials for customers in the life science and natural
cosmetics sectors. From our two business units, Food & Animal expand our portfolio in the area of specialty chemicals that
Nutrition and Cosmetics, we supply our customers in Central Eu- require explanation. To support this strategy, we put our ap-
rope with specialty chemicals for the production of food, dietary plication technology laboratory for cosmetics into operation
supplements and pet food, cosmetics, and detergents and clea- at the turn of the year 2021 / 2022. We combine this with the
ning products. Our long-standing global supplier relationships bu- goal of better understanding the products of our suppliers
ild the basis for the best possible supply reliability, high product with regard to their handling and effect on formulation con-
quality and application-related advice to our customers. cepts based on our own experience and to be able to offer
our customers further added value in the consultation. At the
How has business developed in the recent past? same time, the identification of synergies between different
As for many companies in the chemical industry, the past few raw materials helps to market our entire portfolio even better
years have also been challenging for us. In the field of cosmetics, and thus also creates advantages for our principals.
thanks to the acquisition of a new supplier and the continuous
further development of the product portfolios of our long-stand- As a distribution company, which products do you rely
ing suppliers, we have succeeded in substantially expanding our on in the personal care / home care sector?
business. The picture is divided in the Food & Animal Nutrition SLI Chemicals focused on sustainability at a very early stage.
segment. The portfolio is characterized by amino acids, phospha- Today, care and functional ingredients of plant origin as well
tes and rheology additives, most of which have been manufac- as products from controlled organic cultivation are part of
tured in China and South-East Asia for many years. In particular, the core range. Aspects such as the regionality of the raw
the ongoing effects of the CORONA pandemic and turbulence materials or their starting products are also playing an in-
in the global logistic network require very precise procurement creasingly important role. On the one hand, we are respon-
planning in order to maintain delivery security for our customers. ding to the increasing awareness of consumers on sustai-
High demand for pet food and convenience food combined with nability aspects. At the same time, we can minimize supply
a tense supply situation has caused the prices for large parts of the risks, and reduce environmental pollution through shorter
portfolio to rise to levels that were unimaginable 18 months ago. transport routes along the entire supply chain. Our partner
Cosun from the Netherlands is a very good example of this:
What is the strategy for the next few years? On the basis of sugar beets and chicory roots grown in the
The volatility of the business, especially with volume products, Netherlands, rheology additives and inulin for cosmetics, as
is not unproblematic with regard to continuous, sustainable well as high-performance additives for the detergents and
and profitable growth. Our goal is therefore to continuously cleaning industry, are obtained. The aim is to use innovative

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72 sofwjournal | 148 |10/22

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production technologies to utilize all the components of the our customers and thus those of consumers in the future.
plant during the value-added process and to put them to Of great interest are products and solutions that allow long-
sustainable use. term, sustainable business development, both ecologically
Another versatile group of products are the starches of our and economically.
long-standing partner Agrana Stärke from Austria. While
starches were used in the cosmetics industry for many years What major changes do you currently see in the market?
primarily to optimize sensorial properties or as fillers, AGRANA I myself have been working in the sales of specialty che-
has enlarged their starch portfolio over the time with special micals for 30 years. I experienced the biggest challenge so
modifications, sensitized selection of grades and improved far during the real estate crisis in 2008, when the demand
process steps. As a result, they are increasingly used as styling for chemical intermediates for the construction industry in
additives, to stabilize emulsions and rinse-off formulations particular suffered a significant slump almost overnight. The
and as a replacement for so-called microplastic raw materials. situation we are facing today, on the other hand, is many
In short, they are developing more and more into the all-roun- times more challenging. The global climatic changes with
der in the formulation of cosmetics. associated production and delivery bottlenecks, the geopo-
litical changes in many parts of the world, the still existing
Which raw materials are new in your portfolio? after-effects of the CORONA pandemic, changed consumer
We are particularly pleased that as of last year we represent behavior, to name just a few aspects, will demand a signifi-
EverCare for mineral UV filters based on zinc oxide for Germa- cantly higher degree of flexibility from us. A particular chal-
ny, Austria and Switzerland. EverCare is part of the EverZinc lenge is certainly the persistently high rate of inflation in a
Group and is one of the world‘s leading suppliers of zinc oxi- market segment that has been highly competitive for years.
des for a wide range of applications in the chemical/technical Added to this are the effects of higher energy costs (espe-
and life science industries. The persistently increasing demand cially for gas) and their further development, which cannot
for natural cosmetics-compliant concepts has also increasing- yet be precisely estimated for the coming months.
ly reached the sun cosmetics segment for several years. The
cooperation with EverCare gives SLI Chemicals access to an What are the next steps for SLI Chemicals in Personal
application segment within cosmetics that was to us while Care / Home Care?
our synergistic product portfolio allows us to open up new There are currently very concrete plans to significantly expand
customer segments for EverCare in a targeted manner. our business in the Industrial & Home Care area at the turn of
the year and to further strengthen our team in sales as well
Are you interested in other product representations? as in the area of Regulatory & Compliance in order to support
In times of a constantly changing market environment, it is our planned growth with appropriate resources.
also essential for SLI Chemicals to continuously develop the
product portfolio in order to continue to meet the needs of slichemicals.com

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10/22 | 148 | sofwjournal 73
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interview

Two Women have been Elected

Interview with Isabelle Martin and Birgit Huber,
President and Vice-President, Cosmetics Europe

Congratulations Isabelle Martin, Vice President Pub-

lic Affairs – EMEA at The Estée Lauder Companies and
Birgit Huber, Deputy Director General at IKW for your
election as president and vice president of Cosmetics Eu-
rope, the European Association of the Cosmetics indus-
try. For the first time, 2 women have been elected to the
top management of Cosmetics Europe. Will this result in
changes and what are your goals?
Isabelle Martin: Thank you. We are truly honored to take
on this role in Cosmetics Europe. As the European trade as-
sociation, our members include cosmetics and personal care Substances and Mixtures (CLP Regulation), the Registration, Eval-
manufacturers as well as associations representing our industry uation, Authorisation & Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) Regula-
at national level across Europe. It is our ambition for this pres- tion and last but not least the Cosmetic Products Regulation (CPR).
idency to ensure that Cosmetics Europe further evolves as a Birgit Huber: In June, Cosmetics Europe submitted its contri-
proactive, trusted and effective partner and stakeholder in the bution to the CPR public consultation where it laid down its rec-
current discussions, beyond the upcoming review of the Cos- ommendations to the targeted revision of cosmetics legislation.
metic Products Regulation. We called for a strong CPR for the green and digital transition.
Today in Europe, we are witnessing a profound political and One that:
societal transformation, which leaves no industry untouched. • fosters a sustainable (globally) competitive cosmetics sector,
For the cosmetics and personal care sector, the rapidly evolv- entrepreneurship and innovation capacity;
ing regulatory landscape driven by the green transition puts • strengthens its science-based, proportionate, effective and
change firmly on our agenda. It is for us now to rise to the efficient approach, addressing human and environmental
challenge of our times, demonstrate our readiness and efforts safety in the interest of consumers, industry and authorities;
to contribute to the goals of the European Green Deal so that • acknowledge the long history of a high level of safety of Eu-
our industry continues to meet the expectations of our con- ropean cosmetic products and keep, at its core, the principle
sumers and prosper in Europe. of scientific safety-based risk assessment;
Birgit Huber: Our pan-European network of associations • remains the “Gold Standard” and international reference
which form part of Cosmetics Europe, is a resource that we worldwide;
would like us to tap into even more in the coming years. They • maintains a level of regulatory burden achievable and man-
are our sector’s best ambassadors at the national level. Coop- ageable particularly by SMEs; and
eration is key to developing proactive approaches on issues • is future-proofed by considering how digital labelling
such as transparency and sustainability – priorities for our ever can be a meaningful way to protect and inform con-
more diverse consumer base. sumers and contribute to packaging waste reduction at
the same time
You have already made a lot of efforts to increase the In our response, we urged the European Commission to take
safety of cosmetics through trainings in the last years. a holistic approach to the revision process and see it in the
You have also just mentioned the European Green Deal. overall context of the wider policy objectives of the EGD so that
What impact does it have on cosmetic products? coherence and consistency across legislation can be ensured to
Isabelle Martin: The European Green Deal (EGD) is one of the effectively support the green transition.
most important strategic initiatives ever undertaken in the Europe-
an Union and as such it has had an impact on each and every in- After 2 years of pandemic, we now have a war in Ukraine.
dustry. For our sector, the Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability, set What challenges does the European cosmetics industry face?
out as part of the EU’s overall push for sustainability in the EGD, is Isabelle Martin: First of all, we would like to express our
of key significance since it triggered the revision of three key pieces solidarity with the people of Ukraine. Many of our member
of legislation affecting cosmetic ingredients and products: the Reg- companies are actively involved in providing various forms of
ulation on the Classification, Labelling and Packaging of Chemical support and assistance to Ukraine.

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As for the challenges the cosmetics industry faces in relation Lastly, during your annual conference in June, Cosmetics
to the war, we would like to mention two main ones. Firstly, Europe revealed the results of the latest European Con-
a significant number of cosmetics companies had business sumer Perception Study. What, in your view, are the key
in Ukraine and Russia, which have been majorly (?) affected insights from the study?
now. Secondly, availability of certain raw materials and their Isabelle Martin: Cosmetics industry is extremely consumer-driv-
prices have also been impacted, example being sunflower oil. en. It’s the insights from our consumers that help drive our in-
dustry forward. The economic contribution of our industry is
Transparency in a digital world is becoming more and well-established and recognised, but our products also play a
more important. How do manufacturers inform consu- major role in people’s personal health and well-being. We asked
mers about cosmetic products and their ingredients? Ifop, the international research firm, to conduct the study on our
Isabelle Martin: The cosmetics and personal care industry is behalf, as we wanted to understand better what cosmetic prod-
an extremely consumer driven-sector and good communication ucts really mean to those who use them, and why.
with our consumers is a must. Transparency regarding our pro- Birgit Huber: The results clearly showed that cosmetics and
ducts, ingredients and practices is a key element of it. We want personal care products are essential in all stages of life and
to enable and empower consumers to make their own choices, they matter to people. 72% of European consumers see cos-
which are best for them. As an example, all ingredients used in metics and personal and cosmetic care products as important
a cosmetic product need to be listed on a product label. how to or very important in their daily lives. Moreover, cosmetics con-
use them safely, and how to obtain the best result. Today con- tribute to improving quality of life – 71% of consumers at-
sumers look for more information than what legislation requires. tested to that. For 70% of consumers cosmetics and personal
They want to know why ingredients are used for in the products. care products are also important or very important in building
Industry is working on tools that will enable consumers to find up self-esteem. These societal benefits cosmetics bring should
that information and to better understand the technology not be underestimated. For more details on the study find-
Birgit Huber: The digital era has come. Many consumers all ings, I would invite you to check out our infographics here:
over Europe have a mobile phone and access to internet. Our
companies are already responding to this reality by providing
a lot of information digitally. Today, the CPR’s provisions re-
lated to mandatory consumer information are limited to on-
pack labelling. We believe there is a clear need to introduce
provisions related to digital labelling, to take account of the
evolution of consumers’ way of accessing information and of Thank you very much for this interview.
digital technologies. Some of our national associations have We wish you all the best for your new tasks.
already started with databases and apps delivering a huge
amount of information to the consumer. cosmeticseurope.eu

www.sofw.com

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 content
formulations

Repair and Rejuvenate Natural Night Cream

Formulation-ID: CH0067
Phase INCI Name Functionality % w/w

A Crodamol SSA (Decyl Isostearate (and) Isostearyl Isostearate)1 Emollient 7.50

Crodamol IPIS (Isopropyl Isostearate)1 Emollient 7.50

Crodamol ISIS (Isostearyl Isostearate)1 Emollient 5.00

NatraGem EW (Glyceryl Stearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 O/W Emulsifier 5.00

Palmitate/Succinate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol)1

B Water Deionised (Aqua) - To 100

Glycerin4 Humectant 3.00

Sodium Benzoate5 Preservative 0.30

Potassium Sorbate5 Preservative 0.20

Keltrol CG-T (Xanthan Gum)6 Thickener 0.15

C Fruitliquid Kumquat (Aqua (and) Glycerin Radiance Booster 2.00

(and) Citrus Japonica Fruit Extract)2

Prodizia (Glycerin (and) Albiziz Julibrissin Barj extract)3 Promotes a visible 2.00
reduction of cutan-
eous signs of fatigue
caused by glycation
and glycoxidation
Suppliers: Appearance:
1: Croda 2: Crodarom 3: Sederma 4: Cargill 5: Sigma 6: CP Kelco White emulsion; pH: 5.5 ± 0.5; Viscosity: 15,750 cPs ± 10% (Brookfield DV-I+,
Spindle 27, 5 rpm, 1 min, room temperature)
Procedure:
1. Premix the Xanthan Gum and glycerin. Stability:
2. Add water with stirring. 3 months at 4 °C, 25 °C, 40°C, 45 °C and 50 °C and 7 x -10 / +40 °C 24 hour
3. Once fully hydrated heat Part A & Part B to 75-80 °C. freeze thaw cycles
4. Add Part A to Part B with stirring.
5. Homogenise for 1 min / 200g (10 000 rpm). Keltrol is a registered trademark of CP Kelco.
6. Stir to cool. This formulation was developed in Europe. Contact your local sales representative
7. Once below 40 °C add Part C. with enquiries as ingredient availability can vary by region.

DISCLAIMER:
The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty as to its completeness or accuracy is made.
Suggestions for uses or applications are only opinions. Users are responsible for determining the suitability of these products for their own particular purpose. No rep-
resentation or warranty, expressed or implied, is made with respect to information or products including, without limitation, warranties of merchantability, fitness for
a particular purpose, non-infringement of any third party patent or other intellectual property rights including, without limit, copyright, trademark and designs. Any
trademarks identified herein, unless otherwise noted, are trademarks of the Croda group of companies.

For more information visit us at www.crodapersonalcare.com

76 sofwjournal | 148 |10/22

 content
formulations

Regenerating eye area day cream with AMEYEZING™

and FEMINAGE™
Formulation-ID: SE0189I

Phase INCI Name Functionality % w/w

A Water Deionised (Aqua) - To 100
Sodium Chloride Salt 1.00
Phytessence™ Speedwell (Water (and) Glycerin (and) Veronica Soothing botanical 1.00
Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract)3 extract
Potassium Sorbate Preservative 0.30
Sodium Benzoate Preservative 0.30
Lactic Acid pH adjustment 0.05
B Feminage™ (Glycerin (and) Water (and) Engelhardtia Chrysolepis Anti-hormonal 3.00
Leaf Extract)2 skin sagging active
C Ameyezing™ (Butylene Glycol (and) Zerumbone)2 Eye contour active 1.50
D Crodamol™ GTCC (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)1 Emollient 6.00
Imercare® Pharma 00T (Talc)4 Powder 6.00
Solaveil™ XT-300 (Titanium Dioxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyce- Sunscreen 5.00
ride (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Alumina)1
SP Arlacel™ 1690 MBAL (Sorbitan Isostearate (and) Polyglyce- W/O emulsifier 3.00
ryl-3 Polyricinoleate)1
FSS Rice Stach Powder (Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch)5 Powder 3.00
Squalane Emollient 3.00
Crodamol™ ISIS (Isostearyl Isostearate)1 Emollient 2.00
Span™ 80 (Sorbitan Oleate)1 Co-emulsifier 1.00
Dl Alpha Tocopherol Antioxidant 0.20
Chamomile NAT6 Fragrance 0.20
Suppliers:
Appearance:
1: Croda 2: Sederma 3: Crodarom 4: Imerys 5: Active Concepts 6: Firmenich
Off-white opaque viscous cream; Viscosity: 50.000 cps ± 10% Sp.93, 2.5rpm,
1 min, 25 °C, Brookfield DV-I Prime
Procedure:
1. Weigh and mix Part A with helix stirring (s = 300 rpm). Stability:
2. Weigh Part B. Add Part B to Part A with normal helix stirring. 3 months at 4 °C, 25 °C, 45 °C and 1 month at 50 °C
3. Weigh Part C. Add Part C to Part A+B and mix well.
4. Weigh Part D and mix well with normal rotor stator stirring. Centrifuge 10min @ 3000 rpm and 1 x -80 ºC/+25 ºC 24 hours freeze-thaw cycle
5. Add Part A+B+C to Part D with rapid rotor stator stirring and mix well. and autoclave 20min @120 °C

Imercare® is a registered trademark of Imerys.

This formulation was developed in France. Contact your local sales representative
with enquiries as ingredient availability can vary by region.
DISCLAIMER:
The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith, but no representation or warranty as to its completeness or accuracy is made.
Suggestions for uses or applications are only opinions. Users are responsible for determining the suitability of these products for their own particular purpose. No rep-
resentation or warranty, expressed or implied, is made with respect to information or products including, without limitation, warranties of merchantability, fitness for
a particular purpose, non-infringement of any third-party patent or other intellectual property rights including, without limit, copyright, trademark and designs. Any
trademarks identified herein, unless otherwise noted, are trademarks of the Croda group of companies.
©
2021 Croda International Plc

For more information visit us at www.crodapersonalcare.com

10/22 | 148 | sofwjournal 77

 content
formulations

SMOOTH HAND WASH

Formulation-ID: C-340
Components:
Composition %
AKYPOFOAM LM 25 (Potassium Laureth-4Carboxylate, ≈ 60% a.m.): anionic

OPTIMAL
character. Primary surfactant. Offers a soft and creamy foam,very stable and with
BETADET SHR 11.7
special texture. Very mild and easy to thicken surfactant. Specially designed for

INGREDIENTS
sulfate-free formulations.
AKYPO FOAM LM 25 9.1 BETADET SHR (Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, ≈ 44% a.m.): amphoteric char-
acter.Very mild co-surfactant. It decreases their ritation level of anionic surfactants,

FOR JAPANESE
DANOX BF-22 2.6 improving the quality of the foam and performing also as a thickener
DANOX BF-22 (pearling concentrate, ≈ 45% dry matter): amphoteric and

SKINCARE
1.7 non-ionic character. It modifies the final appearance of the formula, giving a
LEVENOL H&B
beautiful pearled appearance. Suggested dosage: 3-6%.
EXCEPARL LM-LC (Lauryl Lactate, ≈100% a.m.): non-ioniccharacter. Liquidingre-

ROUTINE
EXCEPARL LM-LC 0.3
dient derived from renewable sources. Thickener for cleansing compositions.It can
be added at room temperature. Recommended dosage for rinse-off formulations,
Glycerine 1.5 between 0.3 and 3%. For skin care application, it performs as skin emollient with
high / medium spreadability and low oiliness. Recommended use percentage for
According to Japanese tradition,
KAO Fragrance q.s. skin care is 10% max. Excellent solubilizing properties for UV-filters.
when it comes to beauty routines,
LEVENOL H&B (Glycereth-2 Cocoate, ≈ 100%a.m.): non-ionic character.
Double Cleansing and Double
Preservative1 2.0 Extra-mild surfactant, with emulsifying properties. Skin emollient are
Moisturizing and two
moisturizing
of the main
agent.Foam booster and thickening agent. Ecological product.
secrets It doesn’t need
to maximize any
hydration
Lactic Acid q.s. and to achieve
risk or safety warnings on its label.In hair rinse application increases soft and
the condition-
healthy-looking
ing effect of the cationic component, giving smoothness. % of use infacial skin.
Hair Rinse =
between 0.1-2%.
Deionized Water Up to 100 This is the inspiration behind Kao’s
latest personal care kit: a combination
Supplier:
1: Microcare SB from Thor of four optimized formulations,
based on key ingredients,
Technical Characteristics Kaoguide
that Method
you to optimal skincare.
Description:
• Extra mild APPEARANCE (20 °C): Pearled viscous liquid KCSA-258
• Creamy and soft foam
• With moisturizing ingredients
• NOI ≥ 96% pH (as it is): 5.0-5.5 KCSA-014

Procedure: VISCOSITY BROOKFIELD (20 °C, cP): Approx. 9.000 KCSA-227

1. Add to the water the following surfactants:
AKYPOFOAMLM25, BETADETSHR, STABILITY TEST: Correct (1 month 40 °C /RT / 5 °C)
LEVENOLH & Band EXCEPARL LM-LC in this order.
2. Stirring after each addition until total homogeneity.
3. Add Glycerine and stir till complete homogenization. kaochemicals-eu.com
4. Adjust pH with Lactic Acid 10%.
5. Add the other additives: preservative, fragrance (15 minutes of a gitation are usually needed to solubilizeit)
and DANOXBF-22 (easy to incorporate) a sopacify ingagent. Check and read just pH if necessary.

DISCLAIMER:
The information and recommendations in this publication are to the best of our knowledge reliable.However, nothing herein is to be construed as a warranty or representa-
tion.Users should make their own tests to determine the applicability of such information or the suitability of any products for their own particular purpose.
Statements concerning the use of the products described herein are not to be construed as recommending the infringement of any patent and no liability for infringement
arising out of any such use is assumed.

For more information visit us at www.kaochemicals-eu.com

78 sofwjournal | 148 |10/22

 content
formulations

Plant-based and Eco-friendly Liquid Gentle to

Laundry Detergent Skin Liquid Dishwash
Ingredients % wt./wt. Function Ingredients % wt./wt. Function

PALMFONATE 6703 | 6709F PALMFONATE 6703 | 6709F

Part A Part A

Deionized Water 27.2 | 57.2 Diluent Deionized Water 64.8 | 76.0 Diluent
PALMFONATE 45 | 15 Co-Surfactant PALMFONATE 16.7 | 5.5 Co-Surfactant
TENSAGEX SLES, 25%* 16.8 Co-Surfactant
Part B
Part B
Sodium
10.0 Surfactant
IMBENTIN Fatty Alcohol Dodecylbenzene Sulfonate 50%
7.0 Co-Surfactant
Ethoxylate (7EO)*
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 30% 3.0 Co-Surfactant
Part C
PALMOCOL CDEA* 4.0 Co-Surfactant
KOTILEN Polysorbate-20* 1.0 Solubiliser
Part C
Part D
PALMERA Glycerine* 1.5 Humectant
PALMOCOL CDEA 1.0 Viscosity Modifier

Part E Part D

Fragrance As Needed Fragrance Fragrance As Needed Fragrance

Preservative As Needed Preservative Preservative As Needed Preservative

Supplier: Supplier:
*Ingredients offered by KLK OLEO *Ingredients offered by KLK OLEO

Typical Properties: Typical Properties:

• Appearance Translucent • Appearance Clear
• Clarity (%T at 800 nm) 58 • Clarity (%T at 800 nm) 88
• pH (neat) 5.5-7.5 • pH (neat) 8-9
• Viscosity (cP) 1500-2500 • Viscosity (cP) 4500-5500
• Stability Pass 12 weeks at 4 °C, room temperature & 45 °C. • Stability Pass 12 weeks at 4 °C, room temperature & 45 °C.
Pass 5 freeze-thaw cycles Pass 5 freeze-thaw cycles

Procedure: Procedure:
If using PALMFONATE 6703: Pre-condition the PALMFONATE at 45 °C. Add If using PALMFONATE 6703: Pre-condition the PALMFONATE at 45 °C. Add
water to the vessel, followed by Part A in sequence, stirring to allow each ingre- water to the vessel, followed by Part A in sequence, stirring to allow each ingre-
dient to fully dissolve before adding the next. Add Parts B, C and D ingredients in dient to fully dissolve before adding the next. Add Parts B and C ingredients in
sequence, stirring to allow each ingredient to fully dissolve before adding the next. sequence, stirring to allow each ingredient to fully dissolve before adding the next.
Then add desired fragrance and preservative. Then add desired fragrance and preservative.

If using PALMFONATE 6709F: Heat water in vessel to 70 °C. Add Part A in If using PALMFONATE 6709F: Heat water in vessel to 70 °C. Add Part A in
sequence, stirring to allow each ingredient to fully dissolve before adding the next. sequence, stirring to allow each ingredient to fully dissolve before adding the next.
Add Parts B, C and D ingredients in sequence, stirring to allow each ingredient to Add Parts B and C ingredients in sequence, stirring to allow each ingredient to
fully dissolve before adding the next. Then add desired fragrance and preservative. fully dissolve before adding the next. Then add desired fragrance and preservative.

DISCLAIMER:
PALMFONATE, PALMOCOL, PALMERA and TENSAGEX, KOTILN are registered trademarks of KLK OLEO. All information provided herein is true and accurate to the best of
our knowledge, based on information available to us as at the date hereof. Recommendations or suggestions as to the use of the Products are given in good faith but it is
for a buyer to be satisfied (by trial processing if necessary) as to the fitness or suitability of the Products for any particular purpose. No warranty is given as to their fitness
for any particular purpose.

For more information visit us at www.klkoleo.com

10/22 | 148 | sofwjournal 79

 content
formulations

Milky Rice Tonic

Frame Formulation
with Rice / Almond Oil Herbamilk® Eco andAcacia Collagen Powder
Phase Ingredient Milky
INCI Rice Tonic Function Supplier % w/w
with Rice/ Almond Oil Herbamilk Eco ®
A Deionized Water Aqua (Water) Ad 100
and Acacia Collagen Powder
Acacia Collagen Acacia Seyal Gum Functional Lipod 0.20
Powder ingredient Kosmetik 1.00
euxyl® PE9010 Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin Preservative Schülke & Mayr
Phase Ingredient INCI Function Supplier % w/w
B Rice / Almond OilA Glycerin,
DeionizedAqua
Water (Water),Aqua (Water) Emollient Lipoid 5.00
Ad 100
Herbamilk® Eco AcaciaAmygdalus
Prunus Collagen Acacia Seyal Gum
Dulcis Functional Lipoid
Kosmetik 0.20
Powder ingredient Kosmetik
(Sweet
euxyl® Almond)
PE 9010 Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin Preservative Schülke & 1.00
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Mayr
Rice/ Almond Oil
B
Hydrogenated
Herbamilk® Eco
Lecithin,Glycerin, Aqua (Water), Prunus
Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond)
Emollient Lipoid
Kosmetik
5.00

Citric Acid Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Oryza

Sativa (Rice) Extract, Citric Acid
C Natisol D Cocoyl Proline
Natisol Cocoyl Proline Solubilizer Sinerga Sinerga
Solubilizer 3.003.00
Frangipani Rice 0601220 Fragrance, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Fragrance Essencia
Frangipani Rice Fragrance, Hexyl Cinnamal,Salicylate, Coumarin
Fragrance Essencia 0.400.40
0601220 Benzyl Salicylate, Coumarin

Procedure: Formulation Stability:

• Procedure
Prepare phase A. Mix well after each addition Successfully passed internal stress test (3 months at 5 °C, 25 °C and 40 °C)
• Prepare
While mixing add the ingredients• of phase B phase A. Mix well after each addition
• Prepare phase C separately by mixing the fragrance withthe
Natisol. Microbiological Stability.
• While mixing add ingredients of phase Successfully
B passed microbial challenge test (ISO 11930:2019-04)
Then add it to the batch • Prepare phase C separately by mixing the fragrance with Natisol. Then add it to the batch
Technical Data: Lipoid Kosmetik Products:
• Appearance: white liquid • Rice / Almond Oil Herbamilk® Eco (Art. 410300.496.2)
• pH value: 6.5 - 7.0 • Acacia Collagen Powder (Art. 150153.00.2)

Technology Development for

26–27 October 2022 the Production of Fiber-based
Estrel Congress Center Berlin
Packaging by 3D-forming
by Prof. Dr.-Ing. habil. Marek Hauptmann
Fraunhofer Institut für Verfahrenstechnik
und Verpackung (IVV)
Wednesday, 26 Oct 2022, 1 2:00 - 1 2:30

The continuing development of legal conditions and frame-

works towards a clear reduction of plastic materials in
short life cycles currently leads to increased orientation on
fiber-­based­materials­as­an­alternative­solution.­The­central­
challenge for the extended use of such materials is the 3D Register
forming technology especially when primary packaging is now
.com

addressed.­Furthermore,­the­interdependency­of­such­ma-
dobe

terials­from­environmental­conditions­needs­to­be­attend-
ock.a

ed.­The­presentation­aims­to­give­a­summary­on­the current
a­–­st

state of science and technology to 3D-forming of fiber-

voron

based materials and the corresponding application po-

re­©­E

tential arising from newer developments.

Pictu

https://sepawa-congress.de/registration

80 sofwjournal | 148 |10/22

 content
formulations

Formulation Insights

Appearance / Aim:
• A vegan face tonic with a milk-like appearance. Concept with plant-based milk to attend the vegan and health-conscious trend in cosmetics.

Ingredients:
• Rice / Almond Oil Herbamilk® Eco is a vegan milk imitate for cosmetic use to address the self- and eco-conscious consumer. The all-natural o/w emulsion unites plant
oils and plant extracts with the aid of hydrogenated phospholipids. It is particularly valuable for aqueous products, where a milky appearance is desired. Depending
on the concentration, different opacity levels can be achieved. Each type of plant-derived milk alternative and creates distinct connotations and expectations. Rice is
considered the least allergenic and is well-known for reducing oiliness on skin. Please request our product flyer for further information.
• Acacia Collagen Powder perfectly complements the vegan trend. It is a natural gum from the acacia tree, also known as acacia gum. It is a preservative-free powder
consisting of polymeric carbohydrates. It is largely used for its texture enhancing properties (e.g., reducing unpleasant tackiness of creams and lotions).

Characteristics:
• Minimalistic, vegan formula without animal derived ingredients, PEGs and silicones.
• Milk-like appearance
• Focus on the value of plant-derived ingredients

Benefits:
• Combining two trends in one formulation: vegan skin care and a plant-based alternative milk product
• A refreshing and non-oily treat with no tack
• Care and nurture for demanding skin
• Ideal match for an eco-friendly lifestyle

DISCLAIMER:
The information contained herein is, to our best knowledge, true and accurate, but all recommendations or suggestions are made without guarantee. This is a prototype
formulation supplied only as an example of how to use our raw materials and requires further evaluation by customers.

For more information visit us at www.lipoid-kosmetik.com

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Is Na
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Picture © Katrin Heyer

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and shed
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10/22 | 148 | sofwjournal 81
 content
events

SOFW’s event-preview
Did you know that SOFW not only publishes books and magazines but is also big in event organization?
We organize around 30 events a year in the home care, personal care, fragrance and, most recently, packaging industry.
Here you can find the upcoming events:

Date Title& Details Format Language

26.10.2022 European Detergents Conference live bilingual

”Interface Interactions: Experiment & Modeling” 09:00-17:30
by GDCh e.V.
Place: Berlin, Germany
Website: www.european-detergents-conference.com
26. - 27.10.2022 Cosmetic Science Conference ”Cosmetics 360 Degrees“ live bilingual
by DGK e.V. 09:00-17:15
Place: Berlin, Deutschland 09:00-15:30
Website: www.cosmetic-science-conference.com
26. - 28.10.2022 SEPAWA® CONGRESS live bilingual
by SEPAWA® e.V 08:30-18:00
Place: Berlin, Germany 08:30-18:00
Website: www.sepawa-congress.com 08:30-13:00

26. - 28.10.2022 SEPAPack ”Intelligent packaging for innovative home and personal care products“ live bilingual
by SEPAWA® e.V. 08:30-18:00
Place: Berlin, Germany 08:30-18:00
Website: www.sepapack.com 08:30-12:30

02. - 03.11.2022 SEPAWA® CONGRESS virtual virtual bilingual

by SEPAWA® e.V
Website: www.sepawa-congress.com
08. - 09.11.2022 Workshop ”Sunscreens“ live German language only
by DGK e.V. 12:30-17:15
Ort: Witten, Germany 09:00-16:00
Website: www.dgk-ev.de/dgk-termine
15.11.2022 Expert Panel Microbiology ”Cosmetics and microbiology“: virtual German language only
implementing ISO 29621 or what is a low risk product?“ 10:00-11:30
by DGK e.V.
Website: www.dgk-ev.de/dgk-termine
21. - 22.11.2022 “Safety Assessor Training for General and Systemic Toxicology“ live German language only
by DGK e.V. & IKW e.V.
Ort: Düsseldorf, Germany
Website: www.sicherheitsbewerter.info/allgemeine-und-systemische-toxikologie
08.12.2022 SOFW eVENT ”Personal Care | I have green hair: The natural way to care“ virtual Englisch language only
by SOFW 10:00-16:00
Website: www.SOFWeVENTS.com
12.12.2022 Seminar ”DGK/IKW Safety Assessor“ live German language only
by DGK e.V. & IKW e.V. 09:00-16:00
Place: Frankfurt, Germany
Website: www.sicherheitsbewerter.info/seminare

You want us to organize your event too?

Write us at [email protected]

82 sofwjournal | 148 |10/22

 Your partner for continuous success

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Backoffice Management by SO

T division, we mainly serve

SOFW’s services are In the BACKOFFICE MANAGEMEN
includes secretarial
divided into three non-profit organizations. This
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press rela tions and marketing.
Publishing, Event
Management
and Backoffice Your members are in professi
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Management. with us. We are familiar with the
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ely
Rely on us for the an
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Let’s talk about your
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SOFW-sevices-Ads-210x147mm-V3.indd 6 22.02.22 17:32

Your partner for continuous success

Event Management by SOFW

ices are
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three In the EVENT MANAGE
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in ME
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in es s units: of your events from A- care
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Publishing, Ev technical seminar an d
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 content
index of advertisers imprint

Active Concepts Advertorials

www.activeconcepts.it 39 Organ

Ashland Cosphatec
www.asahland.com 17 www.cosphatec.com 66 SEPAWA (Vereinigung der Seifen-,
Parfüm- und Waschmittelfachleute e.V.)

BASF GloryActives Editor in Chief

www.basf.com U2, 29 www.gloryactives.de 67 Robert Fischer | [email protected]

Editorial Content
BDI-BioLife Science [email protected]
www.bdi-biolifescience.com 23
Advertising
[email protected]
BYK
Publishers´ Ads Subscriptions
www.byk.com 5
[email protected]

Publisher
CHT
Cosmetic Science Conference (CSC) Verlag für chemische Industrie H. Ziolkowsky GmbH
www.cht-silicones.com 7
www.cosmetic-science-conference.com 33 Print

Covestro
www.covestro.com 15
SEPAPack 2022
www.sepapack.com 11,80
Düllberg Holzmann Druck GmbH & Co. KG
www.duellberg-konzentra.de 61 Gewerbestraße 2 | 86825 Bad Wörishofen
Germany
SEPAWA© CONGRESS 2022
Evonik (IMP) Issues
www.sepawa-congress.com 51, 81
www.evonik.com/cleaning 13 10 issues per year + scheduled special issues

Address
Impag SOFW Media
www.impag.de 35 www.sofw.com 46, 59, 65, 69, 72, 73, 75, 83, U3
Verlag für chemische Industrie H. Ziolkowsky GmbH
Inprotec Dorfstr. 40 | 86470 Thannhausen
www.inprotec-ag.de 3 Germany

Phone
Jaka (GREAF) +49 8281 79940-0
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Zschimmer & Schwarz
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