PA S T R Y BAKING C H O C O L AT E BREAD FROZEN

PASTRY ARTS ISSUE NO. 16 SUMMER 2022

SUMMER FLING
B Y D A V I D V I D A L

The Difference European Butter Makes • Channeling Your Baking Passion into Success
Environmentally Conscious Cocoa & Pastry • Beyond the Purple Haze • Finding Pastry Equipment
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2 Pastry Arts
Contents 62
Features

88

18
18
Roxana Jullapat
From Fine Dining to Neighborhood Bakery

62
Thierry ‘Chichifoofoo’
Delourneaux
Leaving the Butterfly
98
88
David Vidal
The Intersection of Art and Pastry

98
Crystal Dawn
Raising the Bar on Raw Desserts

Pastry Arts 3
Your
masterpiece
is composed
of ours.

Experts trust our cane sugar because each

powerful grain delivers an impact. While it may
be tiny, it’s tremendous. Precise amounts perform
wonders, transforming the taste, texture, and
performance of your creation. Proving that it’s
what you put into it that makes all the difference.

Visit thebakingexperts.com We’re the experts behind the experts.

Contents
38 34
Trends 12
12
Ethereal Mille Crêpe Cakes to Robust Purple
Pancakes: What’s Sizzling on the Griddle

54
Unsweetened: The Growing Popularity of the
100% Chocolate Bar

Columns 44
30
Cottage Life: Channeling Your Passion into
Success

34
Business Bites: Getting Equipped

44
Flavor Inspiration: Combos and Technical Tips

58
Butters of France: Is European Butter Better 74 106
for Pastry

68 General
24
New & Notable: Latest Products, Equipment
and Books
Chocolate Tempering: Beyond the Purple Haze
74
Chocolate Talk: The Art of Environmentally 96
Conscious Cocoa, Chocolate and Pastry Marketing Matters: Standing Out with Your Story

82 106
Expert Tips: Five Pros Share High-Level Advice Teacher Feature: Kathryn Gordon

Pastry Arts 5
 NEW! Introducing Online Classes Open To All Levels
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vious years. 21–23 No Rules Plated Desserts 26–28 Fine Vegan Pastry
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Join us and expand your creativity, Chef Angel Betancourt Chef Anaïs Galpin
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Connect with fellow chefs and grow 27–29 Plated Desserts &
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 112
116 132
Contents
Recipes
112
142 148
Chocamole and Chips by Charity George

116
Chocolate Citrus Cake by Angel Castillo

122
Red Fruit Charlotte by Aurelien Decaix

128
Peach ‘Upside’ Down by Jordan Snider

132
Passion-Mango by Juliana Hokkanen
166
132 Places
Fresh Summer Tart by Julie Mengel
162 174
142 Familiar Bakery
Nocciola by Noelle Marchetti
166
148 Kouklet Brazilian
Bakehouse
136
Chocolate and Hazelnut Entremet
by Nour Kandler
170
154 Tecumseh Bread
Elsa by Richard Hawke & Pastry

158 174
Evocao™ Plant-Based Filled Sablé Thomas Craft
by Dimitri Fayard Confections

Pastry Arts 7
 the ultimate shop for all things pastry

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Bakeware Molds Cake Boards Chocolate Molds Gumpaste Flowers

& Pastry Tools & Boxes & Melters & Sugar Pearls

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718-232-7044
 Pastry mArts
ag azin e
Advisory Board
Pastry Arts Magazine En-Ming Hsu
151 N. Maitland Ave #947511
Maitland, FL 32751 En-Ming Hsu is a World Pastry Champion and
Email: [email protected] Chef Instructor at The French Pastry School. Hsu
Website: pastryartsmag.com has been acknowledged as a “Rising Star Chef,”
“Pastry Chef of the Year in America,” in addition to
EDITORIAL receiving a “Lifetime Achievement Award,” “Best
Editor-in-Chief Pastry Chef in Chicago,” and “One of the Top 10
Shawn Wenner Pastry Chefs in America” by Pastry Art & Design and
Managing Editor Chocolatier magazines.
Tish Boyle
Staff Writers Jansen Chan
Meryle Evans Jansen Chan is the former Director of Pastry
AnnMarie Mattila Operations at the International Culinary Center
Contributors (ICC), and founded Pastry Plus at ICC. He’s been
Josh Johnson, John Kehoe, Deanna Martinez Bey, featured in high-profile publications such as Food
Genevieve Sawyer, Amanda Schonberg, Sophia Bennett, & Wine magazine, Art Culinaire, and Baking and
Dennis Teets, Robert Wemischner, Brian Cazeneuve Pastry: North America.
Cover
Summer Fling
By David Vidal Kimberly Brock Brown
Kimberly Brock Brown is a Certified Executive
Cover Photography Pastry Chef, Certified Culinary Administrator,
Meto Khazragi
and was the first African-American female chef
CREATIVE inducted into the American Academy of Chefs.
She was a Founding Member of the ACF-National
Graphic Designer
Rusdi Saleh Pastry and Baking Guild, a Dale Carnegie graduate,
and has medaled in several chef competitions.
BUSINESS
President Melissa Coppel
Shawn Wenner Melissa Coppel attended The French Pastry School
Publisher and worked at Joel Robuchon at the Mansion, a
Jeff Dryfoos three-star Michelin restaurant, and ran the pastry
kitchen at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Las Vegas.
ADVERTISING She was named one of the “Top 10 Chocolatiers
For advertising availability & rates, contact Jeff Dryfoos at in North America” by Dessert Professional Magazine
[email protected] and currently owns and operates The Melissa
Coppel Chocolate and Pastry School in Las Vegas.
The opinions of columnists and contributors are their own.
Publication of their writing does not imply endorsement
by Pastry Arts Magazine and/or Rennew Media, LLC. Miro Uskokovic
Sources are considered reliable and information is verified Miro Uskokovic is a graduate of the Culinary
as much as possible, however, inaccuracies may occur and Institute of America and is the Pastry Chef at
readers should use the information at their own risk. Links
embedded within the publication may be affiliate links, Gramercy Tavern. Chef Miro’s contemporary
which means Pastry Arts Magazine will earn a commission American desserts are created out of a collection
at no additional cost to our readers. No part of this of personal memories and experiences, as well as
magazine may be reproduced in any fashion without the international influence.
expressed consent of Rennew Media, LLC. For advertising
information, letters to the editor, or submission inquiries,
please email: [email protected]. Ron Ben-Israel
Ron Ben-Israel is the owner of Ron Ben-Israel
Pastry Arts Magazine Cakes. He’s been featured in countless books, TV
Published by Rennew Media, LLC shows, films and publications, and was the host
© Copyright 2022, Rennew Media, LLC and judge for three seasons on the Food Network’s
All Rights Reserved Sweet Genius, as well as a judge for three seasons
on Cake Wars.

Pastry Arts 9
EDITOR’S NOTE

B
efore we jump into the issue, I’m excited to report that our annual
Pastry Arts Virtual Summit is now live! For the 2022 edition, we
have 46 videos and approximately 20 hours of content ranging
from recipes and techniques to business advice. It takes a village
to pull everything together and we have much gratitude for the
dozens of companies and professionals involved. Just like last year, there is a
free four-day pass to view the entire summit. Simply visit pastrysummit.com for
all the information.
Now, for our summer issue, we have so many talented people included,
but I wanted to say something about our cover story, David Vidal. As a sous
chef/pastry chef at a hotel in a fishing village in Sweden, it’s nothing short of
incredible how he transformed his career by posting images of his desserts
on social media. While there are varying opinions in the industry about social
media and its place, to me, he simply (and humbly I might add) wanted to share
his creations with the world. By doing so, his talent was quickly recognized and
his desserts inspired countless individuals, while simultaneously catapulting his
career to greater heights. Now, he teaches masterclasses all over the world, and
has opportunities that would never have been possible before social media.
Even though social media gets a bad rap at times, it really has changed the
landscape of possibilities for pastry chefs, and it pays to take heed. Have fun
reading about him and his journey inside this issue.
As always, thank you for taking the time to read Pastry Arts Magazine and
I hope you enjoy the issue!

All the best,

Shawn Wenner
Editor-in-Chief

Pastry Arts 11
Trends

Ethereal Mille Crêpe Cakes

to Robust Purple Pancakes:
What’s
Sizzling on
the Griddle
By Meryle Evans

By Meryle Evans

Jessica Koslow’s
Buckwheat Cactus
Flour Pancake
12 Pastry Arts
B
reakfast for
dessert or
dessert for
breakfast,
LadyM’s Peach
pancakes Cobbler Mille Crepe
are edging sweeter, and On a whim, Izard, Beard award winning chef-
chefs are conjuring up owner of five Chicago restaurants, mixed
equal parts of sourdough and buttermilk batter
imaginative contemporary and came up with the perfect formula for the
adaptations of this ancient pancakes on the menu at her diner-style Little
Goat. Then, at Izard’s sweet shop-bakery,
culinary staple. They range Sugargoat, she blended the Little Goat batter
from Stephanie Izard’s with cake batter, to produce a playful layer cake
with maple buttercream filling and crumbly
clever multi-layer Pancake oat streusel topping that is sold nationally on
Cake to Jessica Koslow’s Goldbelly.
buckwheat-cactus flour At Squirl in Los Angeles, star chef-owner
Jessica Koslow recalls a visit to a Mexican
pancake topped with restaurant that inspired her to use the cactus
cacao nib pudding, toasted flour that she adds to her buckwheat cakes
for a softer finish. She starts the pancakes in
coconut, and fresh fruit, to a skillet and then pops them in the oven until
LadyM’s delicate mille crêpe they are puffy, about ten minutes. Koslow is
one of many pancake aficionados blending
cakes and other Asian- wholesome grains, from buckwheat to oatmeal
inspired griddle fare. to purple barley, into their batters. Even uber
IHOP is promoting a new lineup of protein
pancakes made with whole grain rolled oats,
barley, rye, chia and flax.
Roxana Jullapat, pastry chef-baker at East
Hollywood California café Friends & Family,
and author of the recent cookbook Mother
Grains (W.W. Norton & Company, 2021) is also
a buckwheat enthusiast. She starts her oversize
pancake, served with blueberry compote at the
restaurant, in a cast iron pan on the stove for a
crispy edge and finishes it in a hot oven, where,
Jullapat writes, “it becomes more cakey and has
a nice moisture, the best of both worlds.” Her
recipe in Mother Grains includes a suggestion
for a lighter cornmeal variation she prefers for
summer.

LadyM’s Strawberry Swirl

Pastry Arts 13
 Corn is a natural at Panxa Cocina in Long them with syrup; however, there is a choice
Beach, California, where a blue corn pinon of embellishments including Pink Lady apple,
pancake, topped with pine nuts and piloncillo banana with toasted walnuts, blueberry with
syrup, dovetails neatly with the restaurant’s flax seed crumble,and chocolate chip made
Southwestern theme. In the Northwest, at with 60.5 % TCHO dark couverture.
The Lake House in Bellevue, Washington, Phelps, one of a cohort of chefs merchandising
Beard award winning chef-owner Jason their specialties, sells a tee-shirt with the logo
Wilson’s Cocoa Pancake Stack is made with “No Syrup” and the restaurant’s Oatmeal Griddle
cascara (coffee flour) and served with vanilla Cake Mix which comes with a separate packet
scented Greek yogurt, blueberry compote and of cinnamon spice blend. Bubby’s, a Manhattan
chocolate maple syrup. Wilson is a product mecca for American food for over 30 years,
developer for coffee flour which is made from where pancakes adapted from a James Beard
discarded husks, and considered a potential recipe are prime, also offers a mix, but reveals
global superfood. the recipe’s secret on the box: sour cream. At
Oatmeal griddle cakes are the signature Pagu in Cambridge, Massachusetts, chef-owner
best seller for chef Chris Phelps, a nostalgic Tracy Chang offers Japanese tapas fare, and
nod to the pancakes his mother made for the adjunct Pagu Market spotlights the current
him weekly while growing up, Now, the thin, appeal of Asian flavors with three house-made
dark brown, crisp, yet creamy pancakes star mixes: black sesame, bright green matcha, and
at the three Los Angeles, California, locations purple, made with dehydrated taro root powder.
of his Breakfast by Salt’s Cure (a name chosen High end or grocery aisle, photogenic purple
for the chef’s original meat-centric concept), hues still reign, from Hayden Mills Heritage
and his Manhattan outpost which opened Tibetan Purple Barley Pancake Mix, to Trader
to media acclaim last fall. The recipe is top Joe’s phenomenally popular Ube Mochi pancake
secret, but Phelps explains that the pancakes mix, prominently featured in displays and subject
are presweetened, so he does not serve to limits per customer in some stores.

Hotteok from
Chef Hoyoung
Kim of Jua

14 Pastry Arts
 Hotteok from Jua

Trend conscious Trader Joe’s also carries American palates. Hotteok is served hot
another Asian import, Sweet Cinnamon off the griddle, while Dorayaki, a favorite
Filled Korean Pancakes, a traditional street snack in Japan associated with the revered
food called hotteok. But hotteok has been anime character Doraemon, is eaten at room
elevated to dessert status as the finale of chef temperature. The dough, made with honey
Hoyoung Kim’s seven course tasting menu at and mirin, is soft and most, almost resembling
Manhattan’s Michelin starred Jua, a far cry from sponge cake, and is traditionally filled with red
the TJ version. At Jua, the dough is made with bean paste, though chestnuts or matcha cream
all-purpose flour, glutinous rice flour, tapioca are common substitutes.
powder, yeast, milk ,and sugar. A sweet filling A totally different genre, fluffy, jiggly,
with candied pecans and cashews, muscovado Japanese souffle pancakes have generated
sugar and cinnamon is placed in the center of lines-round- the-block success at cafes and
the dough ball which is sealed, flattened, and tea houses, where the cloudlike discs are a
fried in oil in a non-stick skillet, and flipped base for a variety of toppings. In Pasadena,
over to cook evenly. The pancakes are eaten California, Motto Tea Café enrobes the
hot, the filling oozing and sticky. After praise pancakes with mango, chestnut puree, boba
for Jua’s hottoek appeared in reviews in both milk tea or creme brûlée. Motto also offers
The New Yorker and The New York Times last the third and most widely acclaimed Japanese
winter, the Times followed up with an article pancake, the photogenic mille crêpe cake
about the pancakes by Priya Krishna with a that is flourishing coast to coast with flavors
recipe adapted from chef Judy Joo’s Korean like young coconut pandan at U:Dessert in
Soul Food (Frances Lincoln 2019). Berkeley, California and green tea at Prince
Hotteok is heading mainstream, and three Tea Houses with a dozen branches stretching
pancakes from Japan have already captivated from New York to Virginia.

Pastry Arts 15
 Above: LadyMxBaccarat Luxury Crepe Truck;
Right: Hayden Mills’ Purple Barley Pancakes

But the gold standard for crêpe cakes is

Lady M. The company’s 20 layer confection
was invented in 1985 by Emi Wada, a French-
trained Japanese pastry chef who married
French technique and Japanese aesthetic to
create the gossamer, not too sweet, pastry
cream filled crêpes that became a sensation
at her Paper Moon boutique bakeries in Japan.
Wada brought the cakes to New York in 2001,
selling to hotels, restaurants and high-end
markets, and success led to the opening of the States, Lady M is collaborating with a variety
first Lady M boutique in 2004 on Manhattan’s of organizations. This season’s Peach Cobbler,
upper east side. Wada eventually returned to filled with peach-infused blond chocolate pastry
Japan to concentrate on her business, and with cream, is a nod to Georgia native Sutton Stracke,
CEO Ken Romaniszyn at the helm, Lady M has with ten percent of profits donated to one of
prospered, currently operating 50 boutiques her causes. The company has also partnered
and counting. Romaniszyn, a business school with high-end crystal company Baccarat on a
graduate who also studied pastry at the new venture, the LadyMxBaccarat Luxury Cake
International Culinary Center and is fluent in Truck. Outfitted with sparkling chandeliers, 3D
Japanese, has combined his entrepreneurial and art by Kurt Wenner, and take-out windows
culinary skills to expand the concept in several flanked by sconces, the truck has been touring
countries in Asia. The brand is so popular in California this spring for pop-up parties. From
China that 2000 people lined up for opening elegant paper-thin crêpe cakes to Stephanie
day at the first Shanghai outlet, reminiscent Izard’s inventive take on an American classic,
of Cronut frenzy in New York. In the United the pancake rolls on as a template for creativity.

16 Pastry Arts
 CHILLED &
FROZEN PURÉES

Ready-to-use fruits
for pastry,beverage, cuisine
100% fruit or 90% fruit
and 10% pure cane sugar
More and more delicious flavors,
faithfull to the best of fresh fruits

ADVOCATING DELICIOUS, HEALTHY AND RESPONSIBLE FRUIT

is the mission we have set ourselves to inspire our employees, fruit producers, customers and partners, resonating with the aspiration to
eat better and preserve nature. Ponthier’s mission relies on strong, uncompromising commitments based on our history and new goals:

TASTE AGROECOLOGY GASTRONOMY RESPONSIBILITY

Revealing the Developing an ethical Supporting the Instilling a demanding
original taste fruit production sector gastronomic and shared approach
community to CSR

COMMITMENT N.1 Original taste

It is first and foremost about bringing the culture of taste to daily life, the original taste of a fruit that nature gives us if we respect it. It’s about sourcing
exceptional, rare and exclusive fruit, harvested when ripe and processed with care as close as possible to the orchards, as quickly as possible.

COMMITMENT N.2 Creation of the PURE TRACE® label

/kg po TEUR / PROD
0,01mg ur plus de 61 RC
OLLEC UCE
on à 0m RC
cati EU
Sans résidu Eguer
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de pesticides*
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analysées

PURE TRACE
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*Limit

Without pesticide Recinto Piquigua

residue* Ecuador
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PURE : Means guaranteeing healthy, pesticide residue free TRACE : Means guaranteeing traceability so that gastronomy
products with the PURE label, thanks to responsible and committed professionals can enhance the value of their offer and meet consumer
growing methods and analyses on all fruit batches approved by expectations on product origin. Ponthier was a pioneer in listing
Ponthier experts. In 2022, 33 flavors are labelled PURE, pesticide stringent traceability (country, harvest area and variety) and now
© Photo Mathide de l’Ecotais

residue free (limit of quantification 0.01mg/kg for more than 610 Ponthier is going much further with the creation of the TRACE label,
molecules analysed) whatever their packaging format. which lists the producer-harvester and the harvest location. In 2022, 26
flavors are labelled TRACE regardless of their packaging format.

ZA des Vieux Chênes - BP 4 - 19130 Objat – France - www.ponthier.net / [email protected]

Profile

Roxana
Jullapat
Once a pastry chef at white
tablecloth restaurants, the baker-
owner of Friends and Family
is now committed to offering
a menu based on whole
grains while engendering
a strong sense of
community in her
eclectic Los Angeles
neighborhood,
one customer
at a time.

By
Robert
Wemischner

18 Pastry Arts
T
alk to Roxana Jullapat,
baker-owner of Friends
and Family in Los Angeles,
and you will come away
refreshed about the
prospects of how a small
business can become a
hub for the community.
Located improbably
on a stretch of east Hollywood, the nexus of
Thai food and the heart of ‘Little Armenia,’ the
bakery café represents a place with a fierce
commitment to locally grown ingredients.
California born but with a strong connection to
Costa Rica, the land of her stepmother, Roxana
transitioned from being a pastry chef in fine
dining restaurants in LA and elsewhere to her
role as a baker committed to basing her menu
on locally grown whole grains.
She says: “Transitioning from fine dining
establishments where champagne flutes were
in the hands of many of the customers, to a
neighborhood bakery has been a huge but
extremely satisfying leap. We opened our
bakery café to be a place where customers
could choose to come every day. The hardest
part has been to make the bakery a place that
would be super accessible. We wished to be
a neighborhood hang serving delicious, well and Suzanne Goin, both restaurant royalty in
made, and thoughtful food in a space with a LA. She says, “Once I snapped out feeling that
‘come as you are’ vibe. We consciously decided baking was going to be a great hobby, I began
to leave the fussy stuff to other chefs and to take culinary school very seriously and had
restaurants.” my eye on working in the field where squeeze
Shining a light on how to use whole grains bottles, ring molds and tweezers were nowhere
– from barley to sorghum with stops for rye to be found in my toolbox. I also realized that
and corn along the way – Jullapat wrote Mother to succeed, you must be all in, committed to
Grains: Recipes for the Grain Revolution (Norton, pursuing baking as a serious path. It’s not just
2021). Here she deftly sums up her baking something for the meantime.” Five years later
philosophy, beginning with expressing respect Roxana and her partner Dan Mattern are proving
for the vitality of the ingredients and ending to a local and eclectic community and on the
with valuing whimsy and imperfection. That national stage (she was recently nominated for
honestly says it for a baker who has helmed the a James Beard Award) that whole grain can be
pastry side of the kitchens of Nancy Silverton wholesome – and delicious.

Pastry Arts 19
 Jullapat feels that she has found her lane and
intends to stick to it. “We are not a restaurant
We wished to be a where desserts sell for 12 dollars a pop.” Instead,
at years four and five, like everyone else in the
neighborhood hang food service business, she has navigated the
serving delicious, well tricky shoals of the pandemic. “As bakers, we
are always needing to be creative. That part has
made, and thoughtful been second nature to me—how we schedule
shifts and batches of bread to make sense. It’s
food in a space with a a big jigsaw puzzle, not without its challenges,
‘come as you are’ vibe. but all of this juggling is part of what we do as
bakers. We face challenges when we need to
We consciously decided retard a particular dough to delay baking until
the ovens are available or adjusting schedules
to leave the fussy stuff to work within time constraints when we
to other chefs and need to get a wholesale order out for an early
morning delivery to our customers.” For now, as
restaurants. a business owner, she does not feel that same
sense of impending doom of the earlier stages
of the pandemic that left many business owners
situated on the edge of the precipice, but has
had to endure supply line disruptions, wary
customers and the same litany of other issues
that everyone in business has had to face to a
greater or lesser degree.
Like many others in the business, finding
good and committed bakers continues to
be tough. She reflects: “Remembering my
years in culinary school, when I was just
starting, we are grateful to get students
who have an interest in baking. It is a
lifelong commitment but not without
that perennial revolving door.” With
the upside of gaining satisfaction
from introducing bakers to the
pleasures of using alternative grains
comes the incredibly hard and long
training curve. And on our customer-
facing side, during the pandemic we
left the doors open, selling produce
to the community, attempting to
keep everyone employed. The bottom
line then had to take second place. Our
goals of inclusion, diversity and equity
took precedence then and continue to do
so at the present day.”

20 Pastry Arts
 Never forgetting her time when she was
infatuated with healthy baking, Roxana says Transitioning from fine
that it is all of a piece with her focus on knowing
where her ingredients are coming from, who
dining establishments
grew them, who milled them. Her suppliers where champagne
have become friends over the years. “I am big
on building connections and remain plugged flutes were in the
into the trading practices of our chocolate
company. I want to know about the agricultural
hands of many of
practices of our ingredients growers and know the customers, to a
the farmer on a first name basis.” On a macro
scale, she expresses the wish to effect change neighborhood bakery
and influence policy makers. “Running Friends
and Family makes me think about small business
has been a huge but
models and the possibility of cooperatives. In extremely satisfying
Costa Rica, these business formats are common
and the center of business innovation which leap.
include coffee growers, cheese makers and fruit
growers.” She continues: “I often think about
the structure and ambitions of the business and
ask is it too big? Do we try to produce too many
products?”

Pastry Arts 21
 In the everyday operation of
the business, she explains: “I am
conscious of the need to include the
voices of our staff in a dialogue of how
things should be done in the business.
I realize that you cannot do the job
alone. It’s an ongoing collaboration with
constant communication between our
crews. We are hardwired to pass the baton
to the person who ends or starts the day.
Baking on a commercial level requires a spirit of
cooperation, even though working with groups
of people can be complicated with tricky power
dynamics. Headshot by Kristin Tei
Plans for the future? “I am working on another All other photos by Beth Coller
book, which is a great excuse to travel and
have a life outside of the business with quality
personal time, even though our strongest sense
their fingers to the bone, as she describes it, she
of obligation is to the business.” Formed by
and Dan alternate days off. Despite working
being part of the school of chefs who work
hard and through the night when others are
sleeping, Roxana has demonstrated that all-in
commitment to the thing she loves to do—bake.
On a larger scale, Roxana sums up her
business philosophy in this way: she writes:
“By discussing ancient grains, discovering
delicious ways to prepare them and mentoring
a new school of bakers to appreciate their
many virtues, we can promote diversity across
the industry. As bakers, anytime we choose to
buy flour made from ancient grains, minimally
processed by an artisanal miller, we’re make
a conscious decision to preserve the seeds of
our ancestors for future generations.” Certainly,
calling her bakery Friends and Family telegraphs
her message to honor those traditions and those
people whom she has come to call her friends
and extended family, welcoming them into her
kitchen through their ingredients every day.
One bite and you’re convinced of the essential
rightness of this mission.

Robert Wemischner is a longtime professional

baking instructor at Los Angeles Trade Technical
College and the author of four books, including
The Dessert Architect.

22 Pastry Arts
 Be inspired.

Explore deZaan’s new cocoa powder range for professionals.

dezaan.com @dezaancocoa #thinkcocoa #dezaancocoa

Chocolate Science

Chocolate Tempering:
Beyond the
Purple Haze
Controlling Form V (Beta)
Crystal Growth and Agglomeration

By Dennis Teets

24 Pastry Arts
 I
f all a chef or chocolatier had to be concerned about when
tempering chocolate was getting sufficient Form V crystals
(the purple haze), working with chocolate would be relatively
easy. However, whether you are hand dipping caramels or
managing a production line, you realize that just as important
as getting a chocolate tempered is being able to control the
thickening of the tempered chocolate over the time you are using
it. Understanding what is happening as a chocolate thickens is
important when trying to keep a chocolate tempered and in a
usable flowable condition during a chocolate project.

What’s Happening: Agglomeration this is that larger crystals don’t pack as tight or
and Growth the Second Part of the melt as quickly as smaller crystals. The result is
Crystallization Process the more crystal growth you have, the closer the
proximity between crystals in the liquid phase,
The crystallization of the cocoa butter in a and thus the more rapid thickening you will
chocolate starts with the formation of pre- have. While crystal growth and agglomeration
nuclei. These nuclei form as a chocolate are complex subjects, the key is to understand
reaches its point of being supercooled. This that the longer crystals are allowed to grow
is the temperature at which the liquid fat will rapidly, the harder it will be to get growth back
transform into a solid fat. More correctly, it is under control through the addition of heat.
the temperature where the cocoa butter in the
fat system of a specific chocolate starts the Tests for Maintaining Flow Properties
nucleation process. This process temperature While Retaining Form V Crystals
point will result in both Form V and lower melt Throughout a Tempering Process
forms of crystals being created. During this
time, frame crystallization continues as these Instruments such as temper meters are available
nuclei come together to form clusters, which to give a graphical readout that can be used
then form actual crystals. These crystals then to compare the relative temper of a chocolate
grow by the absorption of other pre-nuclei and either between time intervals of a specific batch
lower melt crystals. Once sufficient crystals to monitor change, between different batches
form in proximity to each other, agglomerations of the same chocolate to ensure consistent
are formed, furthering the thickening process. processing properties, or to give tempering
Agglomerations and crystal growth affects not unit set-up information for different recipes or
only the flow properties of the chocolate during product. Temper meters graph the temperature
usage, but also some solidification properties drop of a sample which is being cooled in a cold
such as gloss and mouth texture. The reason for sink over a period of time.

Pastry Arts 25
 melt and release from a mold. The second
characteristic is that the chocolate has the
desired thickness to achieve a high-quality
finished product. The first characteristic
can be objectively measured using a five-
minute refrigerator release test. The second
characteristic can be objectively measured
by monitoring the weight gain of a specific
area using a two decimal point scale. Areas in
which a chocolate thickness directly affects the
finished quality of a product include air bubble
holes from entrapped air, and incomplete
mold fill. Also, an overly thick chocolate makes
The slope of the line is used as the primary it difficult to maintain center to chocolate
determination of the state of a chocolate’s ratios or form a thin shell when dipping items.
crystallization. The more negative the slope, Other observable characteristics that indicate
the more crystals that have been developed. overseeding the chocolate include lack of gloss
The correct slope for a specific recipe needs and difficulty with items releasing from molds.
to be determined according to the product’s Wanting a low-cost method that could be
characteristics after solidification. Once used by most chocolate users, I developed
determined, the slope can be used to compare the following two-part test, which is based
future tempering processes for acceptability. on chocolate thickening and solidification.
However, these instruments range in price The usefulness of the thickness portion of
from about $6000 to greater than $20,000, and the test depends on the ability of the user to
are thus not a practical method for comparing focus on the details of performing the test in
tempering processes for most people tempering a consistent manner each time. However, as
chocolate. indicated in Table 1, when performed by taking
In order to control the thickening process of at least three readings per testing interval, the
a tempered chocolate, two key characteristics method can give directional information that
must be monitored. The first characteristic can be used to help determine – when used
is that there are sufficient Form V crystals to along with processing characteristics – when
cause the chocolate to solidify with the desired to adjust temperatures or dilute the batch with
characteristics of snap, gloss, smooth mouth untempered chocolate.

Table 1
Chocolate Weight Gain Test

Chocolate % Gain
Temperature Description Average Read 1 Read 2 Read 3 Read 4 Read 5 from No
(F) Seed

90.5 No Seed 16.633 16.7 16.7 16.5

About 4%
89.6 17.067 16.9 17.3 17 17.2 16.9 3%
Seed
83.5 Over time 18.233 17.6 18.7 18.4 17.5 17.5 9%

26 Pastry Arts
Figure 1

Figure 3 Figure 2 Figure 4

Thickness Test 4. Place the spatula on a piece of parchment

paper on the scale.
Items Required: 5. Weigh and record weight.
Spatula with dipping line and a scale that goes 6. Repeat at least three times.
out two or three digits past the decimal point
7. Use average of weights when comparing
(Figure 1).
to other measurement intervals.
8. After last weight, cool the chocolate on the
Measurement Instrument spatula in the refrigerator for 5 minutes,
temperature around 45̊˚F (7.2˚C).
Simply create a line on the spatula (Figure 1)
across one or both sides of the spatula. This 9. The chocolate should release from the
gives a consistent depth on the spatula to dip spatula at the end of 5 minutes when
to, and thus approximately the same coating the spatula tip is bent to flex the blade
area. The line used in this picture was made with (Figure 3).
a permanent magic marker for presentation 10. If the chocolate does not release, it means
purposes. A line could also be etched in the more seed needs to be created or added.
spreader using a cutting tool or by wrapping a 11. If the chocolate does release from the
piece of tape around the blade as an indication blade, it should be ready to use. End
of how deep to dip into the chocolate. grain (Figure 5) and gloss (Figure 4) are
additional indicators that a chocolate is
well tempered.
Measurement Process:
1. Dip the spatula into the chocolate to the Figure 5
line. The blade during the dipping process
should be as vertical as possible (Figure 2).
2. Scrape the bottom of the spatula on the
edge of a cup, one swipe.
3. Wipe the bottom with a cloth or paper
towel, being careful not to pull chocolate
from the top side of the spatula when
making the wiping action.

Pastry Arts 27
Controlling the Flow Properties of 86.5˚F (30.3˚C). As the chocolate thickened, my
a Tempered Chocolate first increment took the temperature to 86.8˚F
(30.4˚C). For my third adjustment I increased
the temperature to 75.8°F (24.3˚C). By the time
There are two basic methods available to I was done with adjusting the temperature, my
control the thickening of a tempered chocolate: final temperature was 90˚F (32.2˚C) and I was
Heat Input and Dilution with Untempered adding back unseeded chocolate that was at
Chocolate. 90.5̊°F (32.5˚C) at a rate of about one-third of
the total batch size. I was able to have a stable
Method 1 — Heat Input: This method adds
viscosity for one hour plus using this method.
heat to melt out excess crystals to increase the
Unfortunately, this process is recipe dependent.
liquid phase of the chocolate. Using this method,
However, by monitoring one’s process using
once a chocolate is determined to be tempered
the underlying concept explained in this article,
(Release Test), the temperature is increased in
you should be able to extend the usable time of
small increments as you notice the chocolate
a chocolate substantially.
thickening. The degree of increase will vary
over the usage time of the chocolate starting While agglomeration and crystal growth
from very fine increments, as low as a 0.3˚F are very dynamic and interactive processes,
(-17.6˚C), and moving to larger increments as learning to utilize the two methods mentioned
time in the tempering process lengthens. Using above in conjunction with the above test
the above test allows you to be certain you are method will help you to extend both your
maintaining sufficient Form V crystals as you use time and capacity, while maintaining your
increase the chocolate’s temperature. product quality.
Method 2 — Dilution with Untempered
Chocolate: Completely melted chocolate is
added back to the tempered chocolate at a
temperature close to the seed crystal melt out,
90 to 95°F (32 to 35˚C), the temperature of
the tempered chocolate. This method not only
melts out large crystals, but also adds non-
crystalline fat, giving more liquid phase to help
reduce the crystal proximity to other crystals
and thus grow rate. In general, you can add
between one-third and one-half of a chocolate
back to a tempered chocolate at temperatures
between 90 and 95°F (32 to 35˚C). The actual
amount and temperature range depends on
the overall temper of the chocolate. This
temperature will also depend on the type of
chocolate being tempered. Not only does this Dennis Teets has worked in the confectionary
method reduce the thickness of a chocolate, industry for both large and small organizations
but also expands the capacity. When using for over 30 years. During that time, he was both
this method, the unseeded chocolate must a problem solver and a new product developer.
be well dispersed before using. If this is not Today, Dennis works as a coach and consultant
accomplished, streaking will occur. for small to medium chocolate companies,
For example, I worked with a dark chocolate focusing on growth, scale-up and problem
in which my initial temperature at seed was solving. His email is [email protected].

28 Pastry Arts
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Cottage Life

Channeling Your Passion into Success

What are the Best Sales

Channels for Cottage
Food Operators?
By Deanna Martinez-Bey

30 Pastry Arts
 C
ottage food laws vary from state to state. Therefore,
before moving forward with any suggestions in this
article, I recommend you check to see what your
state allows as far as where you can sell your
baked goods. A helpful resource can be found at
www.pickyourown.org/CottageFoodLawsByState.

Following are five of the best sales channels for a cottage food
operator.

Directly to the Customer home bakery owner can advertise the sale of
pre-orders and have the customer come to a
All fifty of the United States allow cottage food farmers’ market to pick up their order. Markets
operators to sell their baked goods directly also offer opportunities to grow your customer
to a customer. What does this mean? Selling base by meeting new people each time you set
directly to the customer means you can bake up to sell.
your goods from your home kitchen and
have your customer pick up their orders from
your home. If you are uncomfortable having
customers come to your home, you can select
a public place to meet them.

Tips: If you choose to meet at a public location,

meet at the same place every time and consider
investing in a car magnet with your business
logo so your customers can easily find you.

Farmers’ Markets
Farmers’ markets are in full swing during the
spring and summer months for states that
have four seasons. However, for states that
are warm all year round, the markets may stay
open throughout the year. Other states offer
indoor markets that are open all year long.
Farmers’ markets open doors to fantastic selling
opportunities for cottage food operators. A

Pastry Arts 31
 Preparing for a farmers’ market has its own these events. They are similar to a yard sale,
set of challenges. You will never know how so if you are allowed to sponsor a yard sale,
much to bake; the weather can change at your porch pop-up should be acceptable. The
the drop of a dime, and setting up and taking key is to prepare a menu that can be baked
down your area can be daunting. Don’t be over the course of four days. When packaged
discouraged; here are a few helpful tips: and stored properly, certain items can last.
• Talk to other vendors at a market you are Porch pop-ups take a good deal of marketing
interested in selling and ask them about the preparations. Social media will become your
foot traffic on any given weekend. best friend if you organize a porch pop-up.
• Download a weather app to stay on top of Sharing your event to your business channels,
the weather. Invest in weights for your tent local community pages, and neighborhood
legs (if you will be using one) and tables. community site is imperative. Send an email
• Enlist the help of family and friends to help or create a newsletter to send to everyone on
you set up and take down your area. your email list and send texts to those who
• Everyone loves to receive something for free. prefer that option.
Consider including a free item when a certain Be sure to post something about your porch
amount of baked goods are purchased. pop-up every day leading up to your event,
starting three to four weeks in advance. You can
Porch Pop-ups create memes with photos of the baked goods
you will be offering, and be sure to include the
These are so much fun! But, before moving day, time, and location of your pop-up in every
forward, make sure that where you live allows post.

32 Pastry Arts
Tips: Try to schedule your porch pop-up around a profit in the deal for them. Some shops prefer
the holidays (Saturdays tend to work best), and a consignment agreement. A consignment is
consider including a kids’ cookie decorating when the business agrees to sell your baked
table! A porch pop-up does not need to be goods, and they receive a percentage of your
set up on your porch. You can set up in the profits. You have to determine which avenue is
driveway, garage, or on the front lawn. best for you.

Pop-up Bakeries Tip: The goal of this option is to obtain weekly

orders. Create a menu that includes a few of
You may be thinking: How is a porch pop-up your top-selling items. Providing dozens of
different from a pop-up bakery? It’s a simple options will make it more difficult for you. You
difference, but there is a difference. A pop-up can always add more options later.
bakery will be held at a local business instead As business owners, it is up to us to get
of your home. creative! These are just five sales channel
The key is to reach out to local businesses options. So put your creative thinking cap on,
(such as gift shops, hair salons, breweries, and brainstorm with other business owners, and
florists) and ask if they would be willing to allow see what other ideas you can come up with.
you to set up your bakery for a day. You bring a
table, chair, and all of your baked goods and set
up inside the business.
Deanna Martinez-Bey is a cottage baker, baking
If you choose this option, keep in mind that class instructor, content creator, and multi-genre
the business will get a cut of your profits. There author. With twelve published books under her
are no set fees that are in place for this. You belt and a certified cottage bakery, everything
and the business owner will discuss and agree she does revolves around food and writing in one
upon it. They may ask you to pay them a set way, shape or form. www.thefierywhisk.com
price or ask for a percentage of your profits.
Pop-up bakeries are an excellent way to make
money and reach new customers.

Tip: You and the business should advertise the

pop-up bakery on social media channels. You
can also ask if they have a sign to place outside.
You can add a balloon for attention.

Local Coffee Shops

Most local coffee shops offer a variety of baked
goods for customers to enjoy alongside their
coffee. Here is where you, the cottage baker,
come into play. Put together a proposal for
your local coffee shop. Include which products
you have for sale, the wholesale price (what
you would charge the shop to purchase them
from you), and the projected retail price. The
coffee shop owner will want to see that there is

Pastry Arts 33
Business Bites

Getting
Equipped
In this edition of Business Bites, we asked dessert
professionals how they decided what equipment to buy
for their business, and what their advice is for others
who need to do the same.

34 Pastry Arts
Kimi Pollett
Owner, Chubby Lil
Mermaid Bakery and Café,
Seal Rock, OR
How did you decide what equipment to
buy for your business?
In retrospect, we did the exact opposite of what
we should have done! We got our start at the local
farmers’ market and discovered fairly quickly that
the commercial kitchen we were renting wasn’t
going to allow us to grow. We decided we needed
to start looking for a physical location. Being in
a small coastal community, it is challenging to
find commercial vacancies, and we spent many
months searching for a location that would fit
our needs. We didn’t know exactly what type of
space we’d find, didn’t know what it would have
already in place and what we’d need to provide,
so we wrote up a wish list of what we wanted,
and operated on the assumption we would need
it all. Very few of those initial purchases ended up
being what we needed.

Pastry Arts 35
How did you acquire We are about three hours from Portland,
the equipment? in a very rural area, where there are no local
suppliers that carry commercial equipment. So
Right when we started looking, a large chain many things ended up being ordered online
of buffets that had gone out of business and took weeks to arrive. We didn’t have cold
began to auction off their assets. During a cases for our grand opening week, because of
two-week period, we were able to purchase delivery delays. Everything took longer than
a significant amount of equipment from five expected, and because we’d purchased based
different locations in neighboring cities and upon a hypothetical idea instead of an actual
states. Fortunately, we were able to get need, we were finding gaps in our preparations
things for pennies on the dollar, but because for months.
we were buying blindly many of the things I found that online retailers (especially ones
ended up being items we didn’t need, that with free shipping programs like Webstraunt)
didn’t fit in our eventual space, or that didn’t ended up being our go-to suppliers for many
work the way we’d hoped. Within a few of our big-ticket items. The ability to find
weeks of opening, we ended up spending everything on one site, be able to research it
significant amounts of money re-purchasing and do comparisons immediately, and shop from
things that were better suited for our needs. anywhere, at any time, was a huge benefit.

36 Pastry Arts
In hindsight, is there anything you again. We now have five stand-alone units that
would have done differently? cost us thousands of dollars. Had we planned
ahead better, we could have installed one walk
So many things! During the daydream period in unit, saved ourselves money, and had a more
between when we made the decision to open functional space. Instead, we are allocating
a physical location, and when we finally signed significant amounts each month to savings so
a lease, I was working from emotion instead of we can eventually redo what we’ve already
intellect. I was in a holding pattern from a real done.
estate perspective and buying things for the
shop helped me feel like I was making some For anyone thinking about opening a
kind of progress. In reality, very few of those business similar to yours, what advice
purchases ended up being beneficial. I have so do you have regarding equipment?
many things that are gathering dust (and taking
up valuable storage space). I bought things For small wares, take your time. Try to use the
thinking I’d need them (when I didn’t), thinking bare minimum basics for as long as you can.
it would speed things up (when it doesn’t) or When you see everyone jumping on a trend,
thinking I’d get around to trying a new thing ask yourself if this is really going to save you
(when I haven’t). In retrospect, I wish I’d waited time, or is it just a toy that will take up space.
until I needed something before buying it, and Don’t buy tools for things you just want to try.
not bothered chasing trends or listening to Make the item first, see if you enjoy it, and if
hype. it’s a good fit for your brand, then decide if that
By the time we realized what our true needs gadget will really pay for itself. I have over 700
were, we had already spent a significant amount cookie cutters, and probably use ten of them
of our start-up budget and felt obligated to on a regular basis!
make do with what we had. Within a matter of For large equipment, it’s almost the opposite
weeks, we’d outgrown the single freezer we’d – buy the best quality you can afford, larger
purchased, and had to order another. A few than you think you’ll need, and grow into it. It
months later, we had the same issue again. And will happen far sooner than you think.

Pastry Arts 37
Audrey Saba
Co-founder, Le Macaron
French Pastries,
www.lemacaron-us.com
How did you decide what equipment
to buy for your business?
We researched and compared several different
equipment brands online. We also spoke with
some of our French pastry chefs and others in
the industry and asked for their opinions and
recommendations. After assessing the pros
and cons and weighing everything from cost,
warranties, and performance, we bought the
best equipment for our needs.

How did you acquire the equipment?

At the beginning we leased our equipment for
our confectionery because we did not want to
take the risk of buying used equipment. After
we leased equipment and learned which brands
we preferred, we bought everything new from
a distributor.

38 Pastry Arts
In hindsight, is there anything you
would have done differently?
We were cautious when we were first
starting out, so our decisions were somewhat
conservative. If I had it to do over, we would
buy more of the larger equipment items needed
to meet the growing production demands.

For anyone thinking about opening a

business similar to yours, what advice
do you have regarding equipment?
Try to attend expos and see the equipment and
distributors in person. Don’t be afraid to ask
questions and inquire about any special deals
or discounts. Ideally, make sure all of your parts
are available in the U.S. and that your brands
have good reviews from others in the industry.

Pastry Arts 39
Vince Ashton
Owner, It’s A Cheesecake,
Atlanta, Georgia
How did you decide what equipment
to buy for your business?
This decision was a major one – in addition to
creating a solid business frame and model, I
definitely wanted my equipment to be of great
quality. Whether it’s relating to packaging
or the kitchen and baking equipment itself, I
researched the items, acquired great feedback
from fellow bakers, and looked at the price
points to make sure it was within my allotted How did you acquire the equipment?
budget.
I purchased all of my equipment via retail.
That way I could have (or add) warranties,
and everything was brand new. Dealing with
third parties for purchasing equipment can be
sometimes beneficial and sometimes sketchy.
So I’d rather take that safer route and at least
feel confident that the newer equipment would
work in my favor versus something that may
have been used. However, I will point out that
as a business owner you also have to work with
what’s best for you in the season your business
is in. In the event that leasing equipment or
buying used equipment works for you and you
find it efficient, by all means go for it. Create
your own formula!

In hindsight, is there anything you

would have done differently?
Yes! Beginning a business, you may lean toward
cutting corners. However, sometimes making a
greater investment in equipment in the early
phases of your business journey will help you
in the long run. Example: I wish I would’ve
purchased larger mixing stands and other
kitchen utensils once I started my cheesecake
business. Trust me, baking 25-30 nine-inch
cheesecakes with two hand mixers is not the
way to go. I definitely should’ve bought a large
stand mixer sooner rather than later!

40 Pastry Arts
 For anyone thinking about
opening a business similar to
yours, what advice do you have
regarding equipment?
My advice would have to be to stay open
and innovative. Don’t be afraid to try out
new or different brands of equipment.
Try out different brands and go through
a trial-and-error phase – in due time
you’ll find and create your own rhythm of
efficiency. Also, do your research, write
down your price points and set your
budget. Compare and contrast, especially
when it comes to making large purchases.
Know before you go!

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 Michael
D’Angelo
Executive Pastry Chef,
Classic Cake,
Philadelphia, PA
How did you decide what equipment
to buy for your business?
We had been using an ultra-sonic style cutting
machine for years and we wanted to get to the
next level of pastry production. The only choice
was to go with the water jet cutting program,
and through Xilix we found a great machine
for a fair price to bring our customers a super
high-quality product every time. We purchased
the Xilix 1826v2 model water jet because of
its ease of operation and maintenance, and its
ability to make incredibly clean exact cuts. We
use fewer employees to cut and box product.
The machine is so clean and efficient that we
don’t need extra staff to clean up the edges
and sides of the strips.

42 Pastry Arts
How did you acquire the equipment?
This machine was purchased directly from the
manufacturer, Xilix, in Texas. They custom-build
every machine and they send a highly skilled
technician to install and train the staff. Their
customer service is incredible. The machine
has a lot of moving parts, and it can be a bit
intimidating, but our service representative is
always available to address our questions.

In hindsight, is there anything you

would have done differently?
We wish that we would have purchased this
machine sooner. Our business has increased
since the pandemic and we are taking advantage
of new opportunities that have been coming
our way.

For anyone thinking about opening a

business similar to yours, what advice
do you have regarding equipment?
Every business needs the right staff and tools
to succeed. If your business is growing like ours,
you must be prepared for that growth. The very
best equipment is essential along with the right
staff to operate it.

Pastry Arts 43
Flavor Inspiration

Flavor
Inspiration
In our Flavor Inspiration column,
we connect with professionals who
showcase a unique creation, reveal its
flavor profile and offer one technical tip.

44 Pastry Arts
 Flavor Profile
Valrhona Opalys inspired apple cremeux filled
with apple jelly and glazed with pectin glaze.

An Apple
Brown butter soil.

Technical Tip
By Nitin Bali Using ripened Granny Smith apples is the key to
balancing the dessert’s flavor and sweetness. I
Pastry Chef, The Ritz-Carlton took the apples and left them near the oven
for three days. As soon as they ripened, I made
South Beach, Miami, Florida the purée out of them and used it to make my
@pastrychef.nitin cremeux and apple jelly for the filling.

Pastry Arts 45
 Flavor Profile
Biscuits Almond Matcha
Uji matcha mousse
Vanilla crème Chantilly
Kirsch syrup

Kyoto Green Brandy cherries

Kirsch dark sweet cherry
Uji matcha chocolate decorations
Forest
Technical Tip
By Chin Kheng Lim This gateau was inspired by Kyoto’s famous
green bamboo forest. I converted the classic
Executive Pastry Chef, Black Forest dark chocolate cake to matcha
chocolate. The matcha chocolate works well
Academy of Pastry with cherry. Kirsch liqueur also plays a vital
Arts Malaysia role in enhancing matcha and cherry flavors.
For the final touch, I added matcha chocolate
@lim.c.kheng roses for decoration and some matcha powder.

46 Pastry Arts
 Le Verdoyant
By Lorenzo Sollecito
Executive Pastry Chef,
Four Seasons Hotel Jakarta
@lorenzo__sollecito
Flavor Profile
Green Tea, Yuzu and Walnut

Technical Tip
This dessert combines the signature flavor and
aroma of green tea with a splash of acidity from
yuzu. The walnut taste on the cake topping
completes the dessert experience.

Photo by Four Seasons

Hotel Jakarta
Pastry Arts 47
 Flavor Profile
Under the light cheesecake mousse quenelle
you will find a roasted watermelon covered by a
shiso struzel. On the top, the umeboshi opaline
will give an acidic sourness to the dish and the
shiso flowers will bring the herbal fragrance to

Summer
another intensity.

Cheesecake
Technical Tip
Traditionally in Japanese cuisine, the Umeboshi

in Tokyo
and the Shiso are not used for dessert. The
challenge of the recipe was to find the balance
between these two strong flavors and not hide
the watermelon which has been cooked to
By Lucas Dumarski concentrate the taste of the fruit.

Head Pastry Chef, Pierre

Gagnaire Tokyo Photo by Restaurant Pierre Gagnaire Tokyo
@lucas_dumarski at the ANA Intercontinental Tokyo

48 Pastry Arts
Saffron
Pistachio Roll
Cake, Hibiscus
Raspberry
By Paul Hayward
Consultant Chef,
Ph by Design
@chefpaulhayward

Flavor Profile
Soft, moist pistachio cake; Boiron raspberry
purée infused with dried hibiscus soft jelly;
saffron-infused Valrhona Ivoire chocolate
whipped ganache, and pistachio namelaka
garnished with my personalized royal seal
logo.

Technical Tip
Spread roll cake sponge at 5mm thickness
using a raplette comb scraper and bake at
356˚F (180˚C) in a convection oven for
4-5 minutes only. This will allow the cake
to retain moisture, flavor and color, which
is super important when making such a thin
vertical roll cake.

Pastry Arts 49
 Flavor Profile
This dessert combines black sesame and lemon.
The black sesame gives it a creamy nuttiness
and the lemon brings acidity and freshness to
Paris Tokyo the dessert.

Technical Tip
By Vladimir Baudelin I like to bake my Paris Brest inside a greased ring
Pastry Chef, Pierre Les so it keeps its round shape. For the craquelin, I
used activated charcoal powder to give it a nice
Desserts de Vlad black shade that matches the black sesame
@vladimir_baudelin ganache piped around it.

Photo by Vladimir Baudelin

50 Pastry Arts
 Flavor Profile
Hazelnut and cinnamon shortcrust, hazelnut

Rhubarb,
frangipane baked with rhubarb, rhubarb
and rose hip compote, hazelnut praline,
caramelized white chocolate ganache with a
Rose Hip & hint of cinnamon, rose hip picked rhubarb and
rhubarb and rose hip mousse.

Hazelnut Tart Technical Tip

To get flavor from the rose hip is all about
By Julie Mengel patience. Make the compote and juice for the
Self-taught baker pickled rhubarb and the mousse a few days
before getting started, so you get the perfumed
@julie.m.engel flavor from the rose hip.

Pastry Arts 51
 Flavor Profile
For this dessert, I decided to use Jamaican
chocolate combined with Jamaican pepper.
I wanted the dessert to be tasty, subtle and
Jamaica elegant.

Technical Tip
By Antoine Jardin The most technical part of the dessert is the
Pastry Chef Instructor, chocolate decoration because it needs to be
very thin. I also gave the decoration a velvet
École Ritz Escoffier effect to contrast with the shiny chocolate
@jardin_antoine glaze.

52 Pastry Arts
Trends

Unsweetened: The Growing

Popularity of the 100%
Chocolate Bar
By AnnMarie Mattila

54 Pastry Arts
 W
hen you think of where 100 percent pure
chocolate might be located, most industry
professionals picture their pantry shelves
or the baking aisle at their local store.
But increasingly, unsweetened chocolate
has come front and center, not as an ingredient, but rather as a
completed product to sell directly for consumption. 100 percent
chocolate is popping up everywhere from display cases in
boutique chocolate shops to the checkout line at Whole Foods
thanks to some dedicated chocolatiers and their fanbases.

The popularity of higher percentage chocolates

has been increasing for decades. With the rise of
bean-to-bar and single-origin movements, purer
forms of chocolate showcase the nuances of
cocoa beans. It became almost a rite of passage
for gourmands and chocolate connoisseurs to
only snack on 72 percent or above, and the
release of bars with 80 percent or greater began
to appear. But the push to sell 100 percent has
been a more recent phenomenon.
Many brands that ventured into the 100
percent territory focused on the European
market at first, where there was more customer
demand for higher percentage chocolates in
general. Venerable Italian brand Vanini notes
that sales of their highest percentage bars
are significantly higher in Europe. Based on
the success of their best-selling 74 percent
with cacao nibs, they introduced both a 91
percent and 100 percent absolute dark last
year. Similarly, Iceland’s Omnom Chocolate
occasionally releases a limited-edition 100
percent bar from Peru using Gran Native Blanco
cocoa beans.

Pastry Arts 55
 along with fad diets like paleo and keto, it’s a
natural step for chocolate makers to explore
eliminating these ingredients from chocolate.
The key, according to Omnom’s chef Kjartan
Gíslason, is to develop something with the right
texture and flavor since there is no milk or sugar
to rely on for creaminess or balancing out the
bitterness. For Graham, it was all about finding
Naturally, there the right equipment to have more control
was an eventual over the process and details like conching,
leap across the pond to the United States. temperature and aeration. Tinkering with those
For example, Raaka, the unroasted chocolate steps helps “paint some of those rough edges
brand from Brooklyn, offers a 100 percent around the chocolate.”
cacao snacking chocolate bar that’s readily Both Omnom and Fruition credit Chocolate
found at high-end grocery chains. And Bryan Alchemy as a major influence in their
Graham, founder of Fruition Chocolate Works development and education as they built their
and Confectionery in Shokan, New York, has businesses. So what does John Nanci, founding
played around with 100 percent “almost since alchemist, think of the 100 percent trend? “I
the beginning” of the company’s journey in would call it more of a fad,” he declares, having
2011. “Honestly, I started making 100 percent seen the cycle of chocolatiers experimenting
for myself,” he confesses. But now, they “have a with it two or three times since the bean-to-bar
really hardcore, diehard following” for their bar movement took off. Each new wave of brands
made with beans from the Dominican Republic, wants to “reinvent and rediscover 100 percent,”
with some avid customers ordering it by the but he personally believes “at the end of the
case. day, consumers are interested in what they love
Given the recent movements toward about chocolate, and that is the fat and the
reducing the use of refined sugar and dairy sweet.”

56 Pastry Arts
 Even chocolatiers with a successful
100 percent business will agree with
Nanci that unsweetened chocolate
“does not pay the bills.” Diversification
does. “My energy is spent on
playing with white chocolate. It’s kind of an
interesting way of experiencing chocolate explains. And if offering a full bar directly
without being chocolate,” Gíslason explains. to customers seems risky or not worth the
And Graham admits that while the only effort, remember the 100 percent chocolate
chocolate they offer in a case is the 100 percent trend can be used in other applications. Pastry
for those “religious” about consuming it, “that’s professionals can benefit from more high-
not to say we sell more of it.” quality unsweetened chocolates on the market
For those looking to offer 100 percent, to include as a component in and on their
educating clients is key. Before the pandemic, desserts. Even Nanci, a non-believer in the 100
Fruition would offer samples to taste so percent bar, admits he’s been “pining away for
customers would understand what they were pastry chefs to discover” it as an accent on a
buying. “Now we can only use words to convey plated dessert. Perhaps this fad might be a
what’s unique about something,” Graham trend after all.

Pastry Arts 57
Butters of France

Is European
Butter Better
for Pastry?
What the Science of Butter Fat Tells Us

By Sophia McDonald

Sponsored by Butters of France

58 Pastry Arts
 B
utter from Europe French or other European butters when they
need that higher fat content because they
(and specifically know the product will deliver.
from France) has There are a few other differences. “Most
a reputation for European butters are usually cultured as well,
which gives them a pleasant tang,” says Baldwin.
quality that drives many Farmers in Europe are more likely to raise their
chefs to purchase it. But cows on pastures (not in feedlots with a diet
of corn) and less likely to use additives. These
what does science tell variables can have a major impact on the terroir
us about making pastry or sense of place that contributes to the taste
of the butter, O’Leary says.
with European butter So, is it better to use European or American
versus American? Are butter in pastry? The answer depends on the
baker’s goal. If you want a rich, buttery flavor, a
there reasons or specific higher fat content butter is best, which means
circumstances when U.S. a French or European product may be the right
choice. The fat is where the flavor resides, so
chefs should look across more fat means more flavor. In addition, when
the pond for their dairy? butter is blended with other ingredients, it creates
small pockets in the pastry. “The butter has a
tendency to stay in those pockets, not distribute
throughout the food,” says O’Leary. “The taste
To answer these questions, it’s helpful to becomes more magnified because when you
understand how butter is made and what have higher butter fat, you have more pockets.”
happens when it is cooked in pastry. “Butter is Things like butter cookies or kouign-amann,
made from cream, which is an emulsion of small which take most of their flavor characteristics
droplets of fat suspended in water,” says Kierin from butter, are ideal candidates for European
Baldwin, chef-instructor of Pastry & Baking butter, Baldwin says. She adds, “Any type of
Arts at the Institute of Culinary Education in recipe that depends on the fat in butter for
New York City. The process of churning causes either leavening or shortness will do best with
the dispersed fat droplets in the cream to glom a high fat butter. Things that fall into these
onto each other and form a mass of fat with a categories are laminated doughs, such as puff
small amount of liquid still trapped in it. This pastry, croissant and Danish; pie doughs and
mass is what we know as butter. other flaky cut-in butter preparations; and
Not all butters are the same. In America, creamed butter cakes and cookies.”
butter must be made with at least 80 percent Butter’s molecular structure means it lends
butter fat, according to Joanna Shawn Brigid a smoother mouthfeel to baked goods. Butter
O’Leary, PhD, a culinary consultant and food is a saturated fat, which means there are single
critic. (It will also contain 16 to 18 percent water bonds between the carbons in its chemical
and 2 to 4 percent other ingredients, such as structure rather than double bonds, says
salt.) European butters must have a minimum O’Leary. Whereas the double bonds found in
of 82 percent butter fat. These numbers are unsaturated fats like oils cause them to be liquid
minimums, so it’s possible to find American- at room temperature, the single bonds mean
made products with a higher percentage of butter is solid. That’s also what gives butter its
butter fat. However, many chefs reach for rich, robust flavor.

Pastry Arts 59
 In O’Leary’s experience, lower-fat butter attention to how long it’s been on the shelf and
works well in baked goods that need to be how it’s been stored, because exposure to light
lighter and fluffier. The added water creates can alter the quality.” If possible, visit the brand’s
more steam to leaven items and there is less website and read their suggestions on exactly
fat to weigh down the ingredients. Lower- how to store their butter for the best results.
fat butter is also ideal for baked goods where “The most important thing to concentrate on
the flavor of sugar or other ingredients—not when you are using butter in a recipe is being
butter—should be the standout. consistent,” says Baldwin. If a recipe has been
Beyond considerations related to butter fat, tested with a higher-fat butter and a lower-
O’Leary recommend that chefs make sure they fat product is substituted, the ratio of liquids
store butter correctly and use it soon after buying. to other ingredients is likely to be off and the
“Fat absorbs liquids easily. Even if you store butter recipe will not work as well. Stick to European
near a liquid that’s pungent, it can absorb that butter for recipe that call for it to be results
flavor quite easily. I would also pay really close that will wow every time.

in the refrigerator for at least a few hours

Brennan’s Baked Apple before using.
Ralph Brennan, President, Ralph Brennan 3. Preheat oven to 350˚F (182˚C). Peel apples
Restaurant Group, New Orleans, LA and trim the top and bottom of each to
create a level surface. Remove the core of
Yield: 10 servings the apple with a melon ball scoop. Place
Pouring a honey-brown sugar sauce (also made apples in baking dish.
with European or French butter) over the top 4. Roll about 2 Tbs of pecan-oat mixture into
of this apple makes it a perfect brunch dish. a ball. Flatten it slightly and place it on top
Brennan’s serves it with a scoop of vanilla ice of the apple. Repeat with remaining mixture.
cream for dessert. Pour hot water into the pan to cover bottom
½ʺ (1.27 cm) deep. Cover the dish with
• 50 g pecan pieces aluminum foil. Poke a few small holes in the
top of the foil to allow some steam to escape.
• 30 g rolled oats
Place the dish in the oven and bake for about
• 57 g unsalted European butter, room 45 minutes. The apples are done when they
temperature give to gentle pressure when squeezed.
• 54 g light brown sugar
• 35 g raisins
• 12.2 g all-purpose flour
• 1/8 tsp ground cinnamon
• 10 Granny Smith apples

1. Combine all of the ingredients except the

apples in a mixing bowl. Using a paddle
attachment, mix the ingredients on medium
speed for about 4 minutes, or until the
pecans and oats have started to break down
into smaller pieces. Store pecan-oat mixture

60 Pastry Arts
Profile

Leaving
the Butterfly
Chef Theirry
‘Chichifoofoo’
Delourneaux’s
Journey to Five-
Star Success

By
Genevieve
Sawyer

62 Pastry Arts
H
ailing from the French Caribbean island
of Guadeloupe (popularly known as ‘The
Butterfly’ because of its distinctive shape),
Chef Thierry ‘Chichifoofoo’ Delourneaux began
his pastry journey with an apprenticeship in
his hometown. Though his father originally wanted his son to
become a policeman like him, he supported his son’s choice.
Thierry got off to an impressive start, finishing the program in
half the allotted time, and went on to pursue a master’s degree
in pastry in Paris while honing his skills at Chamarre Pâtisserie.
He then crossed the Atlantic to work at the renowned Lenôtre
Patisserie in Montreal and steer the opening of two pastry
boutiques for Patachou Patisserie in Toronto. Since then,
Chef Thierry has crafted desserts and pastries for some of the
most prestigious hotel brands in the world, including the Ritz-
Carlton, The Greenbrier, The Fairmont and the St. Regis. For the
past year he has been working as the Executive
Pastry Chef and consultant for the Maggiore
Group of restaurants in Arizona. With
his seemingly endless creative
inspiration, a popular website
(https://thierrydelourneaux.
com), and impressive business
management skills, there seems
to be no end to what this
talented chef can accomplish.

Pastry Arts 63
What inspired you to choose a pastry on my day off or weekends. I mean, I was very
career? good at it. I’m glad my parents really pushed me
to do whatever I want. When you love doing
It was the pineapple upside-down cake we something, you don’t feel like you’re working.
made one day in high school home economics I told my parents, I’m leaving to make it big.
– I made it again a few times at home. And And that made me push myself constantly to
after that, I went to my father. I told him that I get to the next level. I felt, why leave my lovely
didn’t want to be a policeman. And, he asked butterfly otherwise?
me, What you want to be? I said, I want to be a
pastry chef. And he told me, “OK, then be the
How do you feel about competitions?
best pastry chef.” And from that on, I got my
first degree, my apprenticeship in Guadeloupe, One of my mentors always told me, don’t focus
and I got it in one year, instead of two. on competition, and it’s never been my thing.
But I love to train my staff for them because
What was so inspiring about that cake? I understand why people compete. When you
know how to sell yourself, it doesn’t matter
I think because I made upside-down pineapple if you do competitions or not – any GM or
cake with fresh pineapple. Once in a while, executive chef will tell you that. You can be an
Mom was making it with canned pineapple. But amazing executive chef, but can you also have
we used a fresh pineapple at school, and I found your company go to the next level and make
the taste was totally different. And I practiced them very profitable?

64 Pastry Arts
“I don’t yell, but I’m
known to speak
with authority
because I lead my
brigade just like it’s
an army.”

Pastry Arts 65
 What does ‘chichifoofoo’ mean to you?
This is what I’ve been using for the past twenty-five
years to describe my desserts; it means beautiful,
above and beyond. I noticed a lot of people four
or five years ago started to use it, the hashtag, and
I said, you know what? I have wanted to have a
company online. Let me put the trademark on the
For young girls or phrase, just in case. You know, it’s kind of my hobby
boys going to start doing that on the side. For me now, anybody can
use it to describe something as beautiful, and it’s
in the industry, I also a lifestyle.

would say to find

In your career is there any one person who
a mentor, a good has inspired you the most?
organization they Richard Rosendale. He inspired me with a lot of
can go to. Because discipline to constantly push myself, and I think it
made me a good leader and also helped me to stay
success, it’s easy to calm. I never heard him yell once, and I worked with
him for two and a half years. And we still talk once
get there, but how a while. People will tell you they’re scared of me
to maintain it is because I speak with authority. I don’t yell, but I’m
known to speak with authority because I lead my
another thing. brigade just like it’s an army.

66 Pastry Arts
Have you ever faced a challenge in What advice do you have for those just
your career? entering this industry?
I went to a location one time to do a tasting, and For young girls or boys going to start in the
it went very well. I got a job offer. And the next industry, I would say to find a mentor, a good
day they called, and told me they had changed organization they can go to. Because success,
their mind. But since that, I have made it even it’s easy to get there, but how to maintain it is
bigger; I have been with the Maggiore Group another thing.
for the past 11 months, but it’s like it’s been 16
years, and it just keeps getting better. I have my
own building. So basically, I create pastry for
all the group, and I am basically the consultant. Genevieve Sawyer is a freelance food writer
But I don’t produce the pastry for them. And who graduated from the Culinary Institute
they have noticed the difference since I joined of American in 2009. She is the co-author of
the group. And that’s why I am just so pleased. The Rookwood Inn’s Guide to Devouring the
And they are happy. Berkshires – One Cultural Bite at a Time.

Pastry Arts 67
New & Notable

Italian Flour: Organic

and Sustainable
The Italian Association of Millers (ITALMOPA) – all these needs and elevates the quality of most
established in 1958 and with more than 80 flour any culinary creation.” The U.S. and Canada are
companies from across Italy – has launched some of the countries with the highest demand
an ambitious initiative to promote exports of for organic products, according to ITALMOPA,
organic soft wheat and durum wheat flour and but statistics on organic flour imports are hard
semolina to the U.S. and Canada and to raise to come by, and are now viewed as relatively
awareness of their high quality. The effort, low. The goal is to increase exports by close
called “Pure Flour from Europe: Your Organic to 300 percent compared to 2020 for Canada
and Sustainable Choice!” is co-funded by the and the U.S, and to boost knowledge and
European Commission. The program made its awareness of the products among consumers
debut earlier this year at Bakery @ SIAL America, in the two target countries by at least 20
an international trade show in Las Vegas. “We percent. To achieve this, in the U.S., POS EU
see great opportunity in North America to grow Flour will focus on five large urban markets: Los
exports of organic soft wheat flour and durum Angeles, Seattle, Chicago, Dallas and New York.
semolina from Italy. More than ever before, In Canada, the target will be on the provinces
home cooks and chefs are looking for premium Quebec, Ontario and British Columbia. All
ingredients that are healthy, nutritious and have high organic food consumption and
grown without synthetic fertilizers. They demographics to support the often higher
also want to respect the environment,” says prices of organic flours compared with
ITALMOPA President Emilio Ferrari. “Organic conventional flours, according to ITALMOPA.
flour from our member companies delivers on For more information, visit www.italmopa.com.

68 Pastry Arts
 Valrhona’s
New Online
Classes
Back by popular demand, Valrhona’s
chocolate and pastry school is excited to offer
new online classes. These classes will allow
chefs who cannot travel, take time off, or
afford the cost of an in-person class to learn
from experts. The online demos will be taught
by celebrated guest chefs from around the
world, including Ginger Elizabeth, Greg Mindel,
and Anaïs Galpin, as well as L’École Valrhona
Pastry Chefs Guillaume Roesz, Derek Poirier,
and Sarah Tibbetts. Each of the seven classes
will be teaching a different theme that includes
chocolate, vegan pastry, pastry case, and through live demonstrations from Valrhona’s
bakery. Each chef instructor will lead students professional pastry kitchen in Brooklyn and
will take time to answer questions for an
interactive learning experience that will help
students bring their skills and confidence to the
next level.
A recording of each class will be available
for students who are not able to join the live
session. Each class will be live at 1pm EST and
last 90 minutes. They will be conducted via
Zoom. Online classes offer great flexibility at a
lower price point as the cost of a live session is
only $49, while each recorded session is sold
for $35. Both class options include a recipe
book and 20 percent off the Valrhona online
boutique. A culinary degree and experience in
a professional kitchen are not necessary, but
a foundation of basic pastry techniques will
help students get the most out of the demos.
To sign up, visit www.valrhona-chocolate.com/
valrhona-online-classes.html.
In order to ensure timely delivery of all class
materials, please register at least four business
days in advance. Those who are based outside
the U.S. or Canada can email ecolebrooklyn@
valrhona.com to enroll.

Pastry Arts 69
Fabulous
Modern
Cookies
In Fabulous Modern Cookies: Lessons in Better
Baking for Next-Generation Treats (Countryman
Press, 2022) scientists-turned-bakers Chris
Taylor and Paul Arguin share new recipes that
elevate the comfort-food cookie to creative
and untraditional heights. Taylor and Arguin pay
homage to tradition while striving for recipes Black-Bottom Lemon Squares; Speckle and
that introduce interesting tastes and textures Spice Softies; Peanut Satay Crunchers; Birthday
for a new generation of baking, making this Cake Rugelach Slices; and Mai Tai Cremes.
book a great resource for any modern baker. Accompanied by striking photos, blurbs about
With bold and fearless suggestions, the authors cookie baking and tips and tricks, Fabulous
investigate the philosophy of the cookie. Does Modern Cookies will encourage
a cookie always have to be sweet? Soft? Round? you to rethink
The short answer: no. Or at least, not always. everything you
Once breaking down thought you knew
the essential rules, about cookies,
ingredients, and and inspire you
equipment, the to create some
book breaks fabulous modern
the boundaries cookies of your
of the cookie. own.
Their 100
recipes include:

70 Pastry Arts
 The École Nationale
Supérieure de
Pâtisserie Expands
The École Nationale Supérieure de Pâtisserie
(ENSP) in Yssingeaux, France, a world-renowned
destination for the study of pastry, has begun a
massive expansion project that is scheduled for
completion in 2023. The extension will include

Digital the addition of new laboratories as well as

student accommodation that will supplement
the historic castle that houses the school.

Pâtisserie Created in 1984 and taken over in 2007 by

Alain Ducasse and Yves Thuriès, the École
Nationale Supérieure de Pâtisserie trains 1,500
Digital Pâtisserie had just launched an exciting students from 60 nationalities throughout the
new 3D printer named the Patiss3. Inspired year. The new building project caters to the
by 3D printing technology developed at MIT ENSP’s need to expand due to the exponential
and specifically designed for use by pastry demand for pastry training which has been
professionals, the Patiss3 offers the ability to accelerating for the past several years. Elise
print large volumes of food without the use Masurel, Managing Director of École Ducasse,
of additives, and in record time. Here’s how it says, “This new project allows us to embed the
works: the printer is connected to a machine excellence of our schools even more strongly
that reproduces the structure of a ready-to-fill on French soil, in parallel with its international
pastry, while maintaining the integrity of the development.” For more info on ENSP, visit
original recipe formula (existing 3D printing www.ecoleducasse.com/en/campus-en/ecole-
techniques use gel to solidify the structure as nationale-superieure-de-patisserie.
it is made). The patented technology allows
chefs to create freeform shapes down to
the nearest millimeter in the tenth of the
time as conventional methods. Marine Coré-
Baillais, founder of the Digital Pâtisserie, says,
“This 3D food printing technology provides
all pastry chefs with a production method
enabling them to rethink shapes and flavors by
freeing them from time, gravity, and handling
constraints. This transforms the creativity of
an entire industry for the benefit of our taste
buds, whether savory or sweet!” For more
info on the new Patiss3 food 3D printer, visit
www.f6s.com/thedigitalpatisserie

Pastry Arts 71
 James Beard
Award Winners
Winners of the 2022 James Beard Foundation Guerra has been nominated before, but this is
Awards were named at a ceremony at the Lyric his first win at the Beard Awards. He opened
Opera of Chicago in June. Pastry Chef Warda the business in his garage in 2009, and since
Bouguettaya of Warda Pâtisserie in Detroit then the bakery has worked to support Arizona
collected the medal for the Outstanding farmers and bring back heritage grains like
Pastry Chef award. In her acceptance speech, White Sonora Wheat. A focus of his acceptance
Bouguettya reflected on her journey from speech was boosting the local grain economy.
cooking with her mother in her native Algeria He also said, “I’m really overwhelmed. I’m
to opening her cafe in Detroit. She also spoke overwhelmed to see your faces, to see smiles
about her desire to create a cafe that celebrates again. Mouths moving. There’s so many of my
“a borderless world” and thanked her team in friends that didn’t get through the last two
Detroit, her farms and partners and her family, years, physically, spiritually or their business
including her parents, husband and daughters. was shut down. And I don’t want to forget
The Outstanding Baker award went to Don those people as we celebrate.” For a full list of
Guerra of Barrio Bread in Tucson, Arizona. this year’s winners, visit www.jamesbeard.org.

72 Pastry Arts
 Team Singapore
Strikes Gold
Team Singapore was recently crowned champion
at the Global Pastry Chef Challenge finals 2022.
Represented by Dexter Lee (ITE College West’s
pastry and baking chef-lecturer) along with
his assistant Terence Lin, Team Singapore beat
out first runner-up Italy and second runner-up
France. The competition is part of an international
competition organized by Worldchefs (The World
Association of Chefs’ Societies), a professional
body dedicated to maintaining and improving the
culinary standards of global cuisines. This year’s Ketogenic
Baked Goods
finals took place in Abu Dhabi from May 31 to
Jun 3, where the continent’s strongest teams
pitted their culinary skills against each other.
In the Global Pastry Chef Challenge category, Just three years ago, former pastry chef Geri
Team Singapore had to present a total of three Terry achieved a major accomplishment:
creations – a chocolate sculpture, a plated she lost 60 pounds on a keto diet. She did
dessert and an entremet. Led by team manager it by using her baking skills to create an
Gary Lim, senior lead instructor at Temasek impressive range of keto-compliant treats.
Polytechnic, the Lee and Lin duo created a ‘Genie Her son John, a long-time keto dieter and
coming out of a bottle’ chocolate sculpture based former pharmaceutical rep for the diabetes
on the ‘1001 Arabian Nights’ theme. They also market, was seriously impressed, and in
crafted a fine-dining plated dessert featuring an 2018 the two founded Ketonia: Ketogenic
Earl Grey parfait, mango jelly and bergamot ice Baked Goods. Fast forward through lots
disc, complemented with a warm chocolate moist of late nights, a commissary kitchen, co-
cake with a Valrhona Bahibe emulsion. Their final packers, Amazon, COVID and the supply
creation, an Orange Bitter Almond Entremet Cake, chain crisis, Ketonia has emerged as a
was made of bitter almond mousse, clementine success story, cutting its teeth through
pear compote layered with bitter almond Joconde one of the most economically trying times
and crunchy crumble. For more info, visit https:// in recent history. Recently their product
www.globalchefschallenge.org/gcc_qualification. has found its way onto the shelves of
America’s largest retailer, Walmart, and
CEO Geri is excited. “Everything we
do here starts with love. We love our
customers and want them to actually
enjoy getting healthy. Rather than take the
traditional path and create 10 different
mixes, we made one mix and thought of
hundreds of ways to use it. We want to
help Americans struggling with inflation
by making a truly all-purpose Keto Baking
Mix that won’t break the bank.” For more
info, visit ketoniafoods.com.

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Chocolate Talk

The Art of
Environmentally
Conscious Cocoa,
Chocolate and Pastry
By John Kehoe,
Director of Sustainability, and
Pastry Chef Josh Johnson,
Guittard Chocolate
Company

Sponsored by
Guittard Chocolate
Company

74 Pastry Arts
 W
e are all surrounded by the impacts of climate
change. As pastry chefs, confectioners,
bakers, makers and in general, celebrators of
agricultural products, we feel the impacts even
more greatly. We lean on and into our resources for creativity
and sustenance. In so doing, we see the impacts of climate
change in real time, its effects on the quality of ingredients,
the supply and the people and communities that grow them.
While there is an upwelling of efforts across the board to make
strides in reducing our carbon footprints and preserve precious
resources like water, we realize there is still a long way to go.
One way of finding a path forward is to capture where we’ve
been, what we’ve done and where we need to go.

We recently published our 2022 Annual first carbon footprint assessment with pre-
Cultivate Better Progress Report; the report pandemic 2019 as our baseline. We calculated
outlines our latest global and local efforts our “Scope 1, 2 & 3” emissions, which was a
in protecting flavor, supporting people significant undertaking that looked at every
and communities, sourcing honorably and aspect of our business through this new lens.
preserving the environment. Yet, in writing it, Scope 1 covers direct emissions from owned
we realize that, as the name implies, there are or controlled sources; Scope 2 covers indirect
always more ways to cultivate better – to push emissions from the generation of purchased
ourselves, and each other, to rethink how we electricity, steam, heating and cooling, etc.; and
grow and source and make in ways that reduce Scope 3 includes all other indirect emissions
the impact on our environment. that occur in a company’s supply chains,
But what does that mean for cocoa, distribution and product use.
chocolate and pastry chefs? It means knowing Scope 3 is where the majority of emissions
where your ingredients come from, what goes are for chocolate manufacturers. In many ways,
into making them and more explicitly the we are a processor of agricultural materials –
relative carbon footprint of our ingredients (delicious ones, thankfully), combining and
and our actions as best as we can – one tool processing cocoa beans, dairy, sugar and vanilla.
that can help in taking steps toward a more Each one of these ingredients has a carbon
sustainable food system. footprint or associated emissions related to how
Last year, with help from an expert and where they are grown, with each ingredient
environmental consultant, we completed our being impacted by different variables.

Pastry Arts 75
 grass fed, which produces less methane than
grain. We are working with our dairy partners to
better understand and support their methane
reduction and regenerative agricultural
practices.
While measuring and reducing Scope 3
supply chain emissions is critically important,
reducing our Scope 1 & 2 emissions locally is
also important. Here are some of the projects
we have ongoing at Guittard:

In the case of cocoa beans, the principal Energy

driver of carbon emission is land use change • 1MW of solar energy completed at our
from the expansion of cacao plantings. Through Fairfield facility, providing 50 percent of
our Cultivate Better Cocoa program and the our electricity needs. The new rooftop
Cocoa & Forests Initiative, we are ramping up a solar system includes 2,992 solar panels,
number of programs in our cocoa supply chain generating 1.7 million kWh of power per
to address carbon emissions through a number year, significantly reducing the company’s
of initiatives: environmental footprint. The solar energy
•  In the Ivory Coast, Ghana and Ecuador, captured saves 1,217 metric tons of CO2
we are planting in and around cocoa emissions per year, equivalent to removing
farms endemic hard woods and faster 263 cars from the road. The balance of our
growing soft woods for much needed energy needs in Fairfield come provided by
shade as well as fruit trees, all of which MCE from 60 percent renewable sources
provide medium and long-term income and is 90 percent Greenhouse Gas (GHG)
for farmers while increasing biomass for free.
carbon sequestration. This type of diverse • On December 31st, 2021, we went live
agroforestry also helps cocoa farmers with the first 750kw of a 1.4MW Bloom
become more resilient to the impacts of Energy fuel cell in the Burlingame facility.
climate change. This state-of-the-art technology provides
• In the Ivory Coast, we are piloting an resilient, predictable, sustainable energy to
improved cook stove program that uses support the baseload electricity to power
59 percent less charcoal or 43 percent less our facility.
wood. This reduction in the cutting of trees • The balance of our Burlingame electrical
or collection of wood from the forest helps needs come from Peninsula Clean Energy,
maintain biomass. providing carbon-free energy from 50
• Through Good Agricultural Practices percent renewable sources and is 100
training in our programs, particularly percent GHG free.
pruning and composting, farmers can • We now have charging stations available
increase their yields and reduce the carbon at no cost to our Burlingame and Fairfield
emissions per kilo of cocoa produced. employees with electric or plug-in vehicles.
Increased pruning also increases biomass We will continue to add charging stations as
and soil carbon content. an incentive for employees to “go electric”
We are fortunate to be located in Northern and reduce carbon emissions associated
California, where are dairy cows are mainly with commuting.

76 Pastry Arts
Waste it is made at mills that are Sustainable Forestry
Initiative certified and, most importantly, come
Reducing waste to landfill is important for from SFI certified tree farms.
many reasons, including reducing greenhouse We have transitioned our flexible film to
gas emissions. Our cocoa beans come from 24 percent post-consumer recycled materials.
around the world in burlap bags. Last year, we The addition of the PCR not only maintains the
partnered with local manufacturers that can integrity of the bag and the product’s shelf life,
use these bags to protect their products during but also significantly reduces the use of virgin
shipment, reducing our waste to landfills by up plastic. According to a third-party analysis, the
to 30 percent. use of PCR saves around 16,000 kg of virgin
plastic, equal to the plastic from nearly 270,000
Water one-gallon milk bottles.

We have set a goal to reduce our water

While this work is early stage, we appreciate
consumption by 30 percent by 2025. This
commitment saves energy as well as water, as how important it is and are excited to continue
almost all of the water we use at Guittard is to work with our cocoa farmers, suppliers and
either heated or cooled. Last year, we took a our customers to innovate products and devise
significant first step toward this goal, initiating recipes that reduce carbon or GHG emissions
the installation of a new water chiller system as well as become more resilient to the impacts
that will reduce both our water consumption of climate change through more mindful and
and the energy needed to heat and cool that regenerative practices.
water, further reducing our Scope 2 carbon If you’re interested in learning more about our
emissions. sustainability efforts, or how you can undergo
your own carbon footprint assessment, reach
out to us. Share how you’re cultivating better
Packaging on social by tagging us and using the hashtag
All of the paper used for our corrugated #CultivateBetter.
materials come from “Sustainable Forest Read our 2022 Cultivate Better Annual
Initiative (SFI) Allocated Paper”, meaning that Progress Report on guittard.com

Pastry Arts 77
 Moving Towards Sustainability
Our Approach In the Kitchen
 We have set a goal to reduce our water P  roper filling and changing of
Water consumption by 30% by 2025. This commitment 3 compartment sinks
saves energy, as well as water as almost all of Maintain all faucets to control
the water we use at Guittard is either heated or leaks
cooled. Last year, we took a significant first step
 Reuse ice baths when
toward this goal, initiating the installation of a
appropriate (4) Set up a pre soak
new water chiller system that will reduce both
tub to keep dishwater clean
our water consumption and the energy needed
to heat and cool that water, further reducing our  Only run dishwasher when full
Scope 2 carbon emissions

 1MW of solar energy completed at our Fairfield  urn off appliances when not
T
facility providing 50% of our electricity needs. in use
The new rooftop solar system includes 2,992 Use Energy efficient appliances
solar panels, generating 1.7 million kWh of
 Consolidate baking products to
power per year. Significantly reducing the
fill ovens to capacity
company’s environmental footprint, the solar
energy captured saves 1,217 metric tons of CO2  Keep freezers fully stocked to
emissions per year, equivalent to removing 263 maintain temperature

Energy
cars from the road.  Have service company regularly
On December 31st 2021 we went live with the check equipment for optimal
first 750kw of a 1.4MW Bloom Energy fuel cell performance
in the Burlingame facility. This state-of-the-  Develop and oven schedule to
art technology provides resilient, predictable, avoid continuous oven temp
sustainable energy to support the baseload changes. Shut down oven as
electricity to power our facility. soon as possible
The balance of our Burlingame electrical needs  Use motion detector lights
come from Peninsula Clean Energy providing in areas that aren’t used that
carbon-free energy from 50% renewable sources. often, like bathrooms, and
 We now have charging stations available at no storer rooms
cost to our Burlingame and Fairfield employees
with electric or plug-in vehicles. We will continue
to add charging stations as an incentive to
employees to “go electric” and reduce carbon
emissions associated with commuting.

 Reducing waste to landfill is important for many R  euse and recycle plastic delis
reasons including reducing greenhouse gas and containers
emissions. Our cocoa beans come from around
Waste the world in burlap bags. Last year, we partnered
 Reuse parchment paper for
baking
with local manufacturers that can use these
 Use compostable Togo
bags to protect their products during shipment
containers
reducing our waste to landfills by up to 30%.
 Find a local farm to deliver food
 All of the paper used for our corrugated materials
scraps to
come from “Sustainable Forest Initiative (SFI)
Allocated Paper”, meaning that is made at mills
that are Sustainable Forestry Initiative certified
and most importantly, come from SFI certified
tree farms.

78 Pastry Arts
Cacao Nib
Panna Cotta
Recipe by Josh Johnson,
Pastry Chef, Guittard
Chocolate Company

This Cacao Nib Panna Cotta is a unique take

on a classic dessert. Made with ingredients
that not only taste delicious but also
have lower carbon footprints than their
alternatives, we end up with a recipe that
delivers bright, seasonal flavors in a rich and
creamy base. The cacao nibs add a dash of
toasted chocolate notes that round out the
overall tasting experience.

Yield: 6 servings

Pastry Arts 79
 *Note: if you want to use the nibs in the garnish,
Cacao Nib spread them out onto a sheet tray and dry in a
Panna Cotta 300°F (149°C) oven.

• 4.75 g gelatin sheets

• 24 g water
Raspberry Gelée
• 248 g oat milk • 2.5 g gelatin sheets
• 117 g heavy cream • 12 g water
• 55 g cacao nibs • 144 g pureed and strained raspberries
• 67 g beet sugar • 8 g lemon juice
• 9.5 g cornstarch • 15 g beet sugar
1. Bloom the gelatin in the water; set aside.
1. Bloom the gelatin in the water; set aside.
2. Combine the oat milk, heavy cream and
2. 
Combine the raspberries, lemon juice
cacao nibs and bring just to a simmer.
and sugar in a saucepan. Warm up to
Remove from the heat, cover, and let steep
approximately 185°F (85°C). Add the
for 5 minutes.
bloomed gelatin and stir until dissolved.
3. Strain cacao nibs out and reserve, if Let cool to room temperature and then cast
you want, for the Caramelized Hazelnut a thin coat onto each dish of panna cotta.
Garnish.* Allow to set fully before serving.
4. Return the oat milk mixture to a medium
heat. Combine the beet sugar with the
cornstarch and stir well. Whisk the sugar Caramelized Hazelnuts
mixture into the hot milk and bring to a
full boil while mixing for about 1 minute, • 45 g water
or until the starch is cooked completely. • 60 g beet sugar
Remove from heat, add the bloomed • 200 g hazelnuts
gelatin, then blend with immersion blender. • 30 g reserved cacao nibs (optional)
Cast approximately 50 g into 6 dishes and • 10 g unsalted butter
allow to fully set overnight.
1. Combine water, sugar, and cook to 239°F
(115°C).
2. Add the hazelnuts and stir until sugar
crystalizes around the hazelnuts. Continue
to stir on medium heat until hazelnuts
caramelize evenly. Remove from heat stir
in the optional dried nibs. Empty onto a
silicone baking mat to cool, and separate
before it cools.

Final Garnish
• Diced fresh strawberries

1. Top panna cotta with fresh raspberries and

caramelized hazelnuts.

80 Pastry Arts
 CULTIVATE
BETTER
PROTECTING FLAVOR SUPPORTING PEOPLE
& COMMUNITIES HONORABLE SOURCING
PRESERVING THE ENVIRONMENT

At Guittard, we’re driven not only by what we make and how we make it, but also by the people we
work with and the relationships we cultivate with farmers, suppliers, and customers.

Cultivate Better was inspired by this ethos and embodies our continual journey toward
sustainability and responsible business practices. Cultivate Better inspires our industry-leading
initiatives that strive to not only cultivate and preserve premium flavors responsibly but also
protect and support the people, communities, and natural resources and environments that allow
them to flourish for generations to come.

Our four pillars create an integrated ecosystem designed for the long-lasting sustainability of the
global cocoa and chocolate community.

GUITTARD.COM/CULTIVATE-BETTER
Expert Tips

Five Tips
Five Experts
In our Expert Tips column, we connect with
five professionals in the categories we remain
focused on—pastry, chocolate, baking, bread,
frozen—to attain one high-level tip.

82 Pastry Arts
Bread
Stephan Barbiero,
Bread and Pastry Instructor, San Francisco Baking
Institute, San Francisco, CA

The first step of the mixing process (done at

low/first speed) is crucial in forming the gluten
structure of bread. Sufficient time must be
allowed to thoroughly combine the ingredients,
to incorporate micro-cells of air into the dough,
and most importantly, to fully hydrate the starch
and protein in the flour. Protein hydrates at a
slower rate than starch, therefore a minimum of
five to six minutes of mixing at low/first speed
is needed. Gluten cannot be developed later if
it has not been formed correctly. When there
is not enough mixing time at low/first speed,
gluten chains will not form properly and will not
be able to develop a strong structure at high/
second speed. This first step of mixing should be
followed regardless of the overall mixing style
(short, improved, or intensive).

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Pastry
Kris Edison Tan,
Owner and Head Baker,
Masa Madre Bakehouse,
Caloocan City, Philippines
During lamination for croissant
dough, it is critical that you consider the
temperature of both dough and butter;
I make sure that both are at the same
temperature. If they are not, issues
can occur, such as the butter breaking
through the layers you have created.
Temperature is also critical because
there are variables to consider, such as
mixing the dough, fermentation and
environment. Lastly, I make sure that
before putting the croissant in the oven,
I egg-wash them and allow them to
dry before baking. This will make the
croissants shinier and flakier.

84 Pastry Arts
Frozen
Matt Ratliff,
Executive Pastry Chef,
The Everglades Club, Palm Beach, FL
A chocolate dip can add elegance and texture
to any frozen dessert. Use warm chocolate
at 100-110˚F (38-43˚C) mixed with oil
(between 10-20%), and add nuts, small diced
candied fruits or a crunchy element. The
lower amount of oil will leave more of a snap
on the chocolate. Some oil is needed, to keep
the chocolate coating from cracking. A shell
on sorbet, ice cream or semifreddo will also
help insulate your frozen dessert or novelty.
It will give you a few more very important
minutes of time during a banquet plate up.

Pastry Arts 85
 Cake
Jean A Schapowal,
Owner and Cake Artist at Cakes with
Character, Long Island, New York
I get a lot of orders that usually have some
type of logo or stylized typeface incorporated
in the design. I always need to prepare for
these elements earlier than the rest of my
prep work, making my own fondant for them.
Making my own fondant allows me the
ability to roll out my colors two to three days
prior and still have the flexibility but not the
fragility of working with it. A lot of brands
will dry too hard and become brittle to work
with, which is why I use my own for these
pieces of the design. By rolling out these
pieces to stiffen a bit, I find that when cutting
out intricate designs or lettering, I can still
work with the fondant, but get those sharper
cut lines. I always keep a large supply of #11
X-acto blades handy and change repeatedly
when working on these pieces. The ability to
create sharp clean lines on all my lettering
and logo work always translates into a clean
design overall.

86 Pastry Arts
Chocolate
Ginger Elizabeth Hahn,
Chocolatier and Owner, Ginger Elizabeth
Chocolates, Sacramento, CA
For our 82% Madagascar Single Origin Bonbon design,
we save the plastic sheets from Valrhona Chocolate
Spheres. We cut them up to create individual
hemispheres. After the bonbon gets hand dipped
or enrobed through a machine, place the plastic
hemisphere on top. Let the chocolate crystalize for
24 hours, and remove from the tops of the bonbon
to create a fun, shiny design. We have been using this
method for over five years now, and even though time
consuming, it is worth it! My team and I are constantly
looking for new ways to make our bonbons stand out
and look as special as they taste.

Pastry Arts 87
Cover Story

David Vidal
Sous chef, pastry chef, Instagram star –
whatever you want to label him, this chef’s
modest persona belies a giant talent.
By Brian Cazeneuve

88 Pastry Arts
 D
avid Vidal strongly encourages student
participation when he teaches his master classes
in pastry for a simple reason: “I don’t think I’m
that interesting to listen to on most days,”
Vidal says. “Maybe the students have more to say.
I can learn, too.” Even on a normal day, Vidal’s remarks
are a fleeting whisper, easily lost in the cacophony of
culinary bluster.

The location of his regular workplace, albeit do a dish for three months, we take it off for
picturesque, doesn’t help build hype. The good. If we bring it back, it could be the same
Laholmen Hotel in Stromstad, the fishing village taste, but probably with a different texture or
of 1,200 people in Northern Sweden, is easily in a different form. I’m that type. I’m never
dwarfed by the majesty of the nearby fjords. happy. I don’t want to relive it.” But surely
Vidal’s desserts need a bullhorn and mega screen there must be a plated creation that would
built for giraffes. Instead, they are often gone in make him flaunt his peacock feathers. “No,”
a blink. he insists. “I’m never proud of what I do.”
“When I do something, it’s okay for that In what can sometimes be a vocation with
minute, but then I’ll probably never do it again,” ego-spiced enhancement, Vidal is missing
he says. “On our à la carte menu, once we a few key ingredients. The menu at his
restaurant might as well feature eggs that are
soft-boiled, wines colored in blush -- many
held in reserve – and desserts garnished
with shrinking violets and a very, very mild
sauce.
Yes, look for the reviews touting
Vidal’s creations, but just make sure
he isn’t the one writing them. You’d
never want to go. He’d ignore the
vibrant colors, the celebration of
harmonizing flavors that balance
his dishes and the multiple
applications of chocolate he calls
upon in single desserts.

Pastry Arts 89
 It wasn’t supposed to be anything special. learning. Sometimes you need to make mistakes
Vidal was born in Canada, but grew up in to understand how to get things right.”
Malta, a country of fewer than half a million He moved to his current address as sous chef
people, roughly 50 miles South of Sicily and a in 2015, and then fell into the pastry world soon
vital Allied shipping center during World War afterwards when the hotel needed someone to
II. Vidal helped out in his uncle’s pastry shop, oversee the garde manger or cold section that
setting decorations only so he would have produced desserts and salads. Ironically, Vidal
enough money to buy the next PlayStation. was more comfortable putting together some
He tried his hands at carpentry, but greens and dressing. Desserts? Vidal had never
considered himself to be “all thumbs – even even tempered chocolate. The detour would
extra thumbs.” So he entered the county’s only last six months, he was assured. Then he
Institute of Tourism Studies, wedged himself could shelve the cakes and tarts and return to
into the culinary subdivision and began his the familiarity of salmon. In the meantime, he
kitchen career on the savory side, an unlikely used his mornings to volunteer at a friend’s
candidate for the confectionary creations and restaurant and soon fell in love with dessert
the Internet superstardom they would earn. plating. “It was like those photos I would see in
Near the end of his schooling, Vidal was books and magazines,” he says. “I learned to use
assigned a mandatory externship at a hotel near what was seasonal, to see what was around. It
London’s Gatwick Airport. He made no desserts felt like I could be more creative, more cheffy.”
there, but did make one sweet discovery at the
hotel, where he met his future wife Johanna.
Vidal wanted to travel, but felt the obligations
of his burgeoning career. “I didn’t have hobbies
other than reading cookbooks,” he says. “I really
felt I had to work at 100 percent.”
Maybe Vidal needed time to smell the coffee,
even in the form of tiramisu, but a work
promotion intervened. He moved to
his wife’s hometown in Stromstad,
where he became a head chef at a
harborside restaurant at age 25. “It
was a mistake,” he says. “I was too
young. I didn’t really know what I
was doing and I was trying
not to mess things
up instead of

90 Pastry Arts
 The man who once slinked away from wood
chips was now embracing chocolate chips.
Maybe hammers and nails couldn’t coax him
If I leave behind one
to build, but piping bags and spatulas could. piece of advice, I tell
“Even those early desserts I made were very
visual,” he says. “I liked that. The visual is very them: don’t do this
important. I was always taught that you eat
with your eyes first. I want people to see it and for the money. It isn’t
become excited to eat it.” Vidal’s confectionary
aptitude had quickly made him a valuable, if
worth it. If you love it,
not so voluble, asset. you should pursue it.
Sometimes he found his inspirations for
shapes and textures; other times, they found Fail many times if you
him. “When my daughter went to cut her hair,
I saw in the window,” he recalls, “there was the
have to, but always
shape of a flower, and I thought I that would try again.
make a good tuile, so I put it around a mold I
had for a strawberry dessert.”
Vidal’s younger brother, Mike, joined him in
the kitchen, and the pair sometimes flustered
their co-workers with the one form of animation
Vidal could muster. “We started speaking in
Maltese,” he recalls, “so people figured it was
pretty serious. Really, we could always raise
our voices with each other.” (One side note: the
music the Vidals play in the background usually
comes from Vidal’s favorite band: Red Hot Chili
Peppers. Hey, why waste a musical preference
on a dull ingredient?)

Pastry Arts 91
 With Mike’s encouragement, David also
raised his game. Offerings have included a
white chocolate and pistachio spring roll with
Granny Smith sorbet; a smoked apple and
whiskey bonbon; hazelnut, milk chocolate,
sea buckthorn and sour cream; and a plated
specialty featuring raspberry cream and gel
with lemon curd, liquorice crunch raspberry
I tend to improvise meringues, Orelys cremeux, then finished with
a lot. I found I like cress, herbs, edible flowers. And even though
Vidal was late to tempering, he rarely lets his
to work with what’s desserts offerings pass without including at
least one chocolate option.
around me. I don’t Granted, life in a pastry kitchen entails more
sketch my ideas as work adherence to formulas and structure,
lest the bread proof a millisecond too soon
much as I used to. I’m or too late. But while Vidal’s design looks well
open to first seeing structured, it is not always preplanned, his ideas
reshaping themselves throughout the process.
a dish one way and “I think more like a chef than a pastry chef,” he
says. “I tend to improvise a lot. I found I like
then making it come to work with what’s around me. I don’t sketch
together differently. my ideas as much as I used to. I’m open to first
seeing a dish one way and then making it come
together differently.”

92 Pastry Arts
Sometimes you
need to make
mistakes to
understand how
to get things
right.

Pastry Arts 93
 Black and white photo of David Vidal by Damiano Brusegan;
all other photos by Meto Khazragi

His unconventional style has led Vidal to tray of anonymity that was supposed to contain
some of the travels he missed as a savory chef, it. “I did not imagine so many people,” he says.
though he recalls being offered dates in Italy Requests poured in. Vidal didn’t plan to offer
and literally asking: “Why me?” Now he enjoys custom projects, but he had trouble saying no.
the trips every few months. “Once I get past “Sometimes I bite off more than I can chew,” he
introducing myself, which I hate, then I can says. “People ask for custom cakes and projects.
show people the little I know and I enjoy it,” he First I tell them it’s something we don’t really
explains. “If I leave behind one piece of advice, do, but then I do it anyway. You know, I don’t
I tell them: don’t do this for the money. It isn’t like to disappoint people.”
worth it. If you love it, you should pursue it. Vidal’s story is an exemplary tale of its time,
Fail many times if you have to, but always try a confluence of excellent food and the capacity
again.” of timing social media to make it rise like a
On friends’ advice, Vidal put his sparkling soufflé. Some modern chefs chose their status;
work on the web, thanks to his wife’s keen others are chosen. For Vidal, a new book with
photographic eye. “I am not much for recipes and elements of history is in the works.
promotion,” he admits, “but I thought I would “I’m not sure what I’ll make next,” he says. Even
just put up a few pictures. Maybe people if it’s humble pie, it is sure to have a following.
will see it; maybe not.” And thus was born an
accidental Instagram superstar. Tucked away
or not, Vidal went viral and his confections
became infectious. First hundreds and then Brian Cazeneuve is a former staff writer at
thousands. Faster than he could take a dish Sports Illustrated who never lost his childhood
off the menu, @Vidal31 had 440,000 sets of passion for chocolate. In fact, he and his wife,
eyes, and, no doubt, mouths eyeing the chef’s Caroline, spent their honeymoon on a three-
creations. The bread had proofed beyond the month chocolate-themed tour through Europe.

94 Pastry Arts
Marketing Matters

Standing Out
with Your Story
By Amanda Schonberg, C.E.C.

96 Pastry Arts
A
s business owners, one of the Number 2 — Be sure to include your story
primary things that separates our on directory sites that you list your business on.
products from others is our story. One of my favorite sites that I recommend for
If you are like most creators, then my students to get more visibility and sales from
you are obsessed with the dipped is Yelp. Yelp is an online directory platform that
chocolates, delicious pastries, cakes, sweets and connects those seeking services with those who
more that we are able to create. None of these offer them. Yelp is known for working with small
products are new and there are thousands of businesses to help them grow. One of the great
sugar artists and pastry chefs who also may make features of Yelp is their app. Their app has amazing
the same things you make. So, what is one thing spaces for a business owner to share their story
that we can do to differentiate ourselves from on the app and to highlight key features of their
our competition? I believe an easy and effective business. Sharing your story on this site is not also
way to make your customers fall in love with your good for connecting with potential clients but it
brand and remember your business is by sharing is wonderful for SEO purposes as well. The app
your story. provides key features that allow others to shop
The power of sharing your story is amazing based on categorizations that are part of your
because no two people have the same story. story. Examples of categories include veteran
As business owners our values and beliefs are owned, black owned and woman owned. Look
usually one of the driving forces that are behind for other features like this to share your story not
us starting our business. As a bakery business just on the Yelp directory, but beyond.
coach, I am always passionate about my students One of the final and best places to share
sharing their story as a key strategy to accelerate your story is also on social media. There are so
their growth. Here are three ways you can share many features on any social media platform from
your story to stand out with your marketing and making static posts to going live and showcasing
create raving fans for your brand. your brand. As part of your content strategy,
Number 1 — Have an ‘about me’ section not make it a key point to share not just why your
just on your website but in your store as well. products are different but how your story plays a
People love knowing the story about those in part in creating them.
their community and how they started their As you share your story more you will notice
business. There is a popular restaurant here in my that conversations occur more organically.
state called Raising Canes. Raising Canes started Sharing parts of your story such as your why, your
out as a locally owned company here in Louisiana mission and your key values will allow others to
and now has hundreds of locations across the open up and see you in a new way. Sharing your
world. When you walk into each store there is a story allows you to put intention behind your
plaque that hangs on the wall with the story of marketing and reach new customers like never
the owner and his dog Cane that he named the before.
business after. The owner shares how he worked
on local oil riggs and saved his money to get one
store even when others didn’t believe in him. Amanda Schonberg is a certified chef and bakery
Fast forward to now: Raising Canes is a billion- business coach. Her work has been featured by
dollar restaurant business. Unfortunately, the brands such as Wilton, NBC, FOX, and a host of
original Cane dog has passed away but whenever others. Her monthly group coaching membership,
they get a new “Cane” they always update their The Entrepreneur Community helps bakers and
story on their website and share. Cane has sugar enthusiasts to make more money and create
become a staple that is attached to this dining thriving businesses. She is the founder of Baking For
facility simply because the owner decided to Business, an online platform dedicated to sharing
share his story. tips, recipes, and products to help bakers grow.

Pastry Arts 97
Profile

Crystal
Dawn
Raising the bar on raw desserts
and mentoring future generations
of raw dessert chefs
By Sophia McDonald

98 Pastry Arts
 C
rystal Bonnet used to catch every illness that circulated
around her office. Recognizing that something must be
out of balance in her body, she tried a raw food detox
plan that worked so well she permanently transitioned to
a raw, plant-based diet. Her new way of eating didn’t curb her cravings
for sweets, so she started experimenting with raw chocolates and other
desserts. She sold her treats at local farmers markets, where numerous
shoppers asked if she offered classes on raw food cooking. Today, she
has a fulfilling career teaching both in-person and online classes and
certification courses through her business, Crystal Dawn Culinary. In a
recent interview, Bonnet shared advice for entrepreneurs who would like
to start their own digital dessert courses, debunked raw dessert myths
and dished on one of her latest experiments: red velvet brownies that get
their signature color from root vegetables.

How did you get started in the raw How did you get into
food and desserts niche? teaching raw desserts?
Raw desserts became my main focus. Not only
In 2013, I was looking for a way to improve did I enjoy them, but it was where I could be
my health; I was working in a large office most creative. The textures and colors you can
with many people and catching every illness. create with raw plant foods are amazing. When
I knew something was out of balance, so I working at the farmers’ markets, I had customers
researched cleanses online and came across asking me for raw food classes; I started teaching
a raw food detox meal plan. I purchased it, small classes at home and eventually received
which was pretty much the beginning of my opportunities to teach raw chef certifications,
love and passion for raw, plant-based foods. one-on-one courses, and to vegan café owners.
I started eating raw food dishes, juicing and I had some requests for raw dessert certification
introducing healing smoothies, my health courses, so I created a curriculum I taught in
turned around and I discovered a creative person. I received requests for classes from
side I thought I never had. I’ve always loved people in other countries, so I eventually
sweets, so when I discovered raw chocolate decided to put the curriculum online. I had some
and desserts, I wanted to dive deeper into experience with online courses and knew this
learning and started a small farmers’ market course was missing in the niche market, so I
business selling raw chocolate and snacks. decided to put this online to reach more people.

Pastry Arts 99
 The textures and colors
you can create with raw
plant foods are amazing.

Key Lime Pies

What tools and resources do you use them all, but I’ll list the ones you will most likely
for your online teaching? need to start on top of the learning platform
you choose. Any LMS platform should integrate
The LMS platform I use to house my online with Paypal and Stripe to collect payments. This
courses is Thinkific. They are an excellent allows the students to pay with Paypal or credit
local company based here in Vancouver, BC. I card. I use Zoom, of course, to hold our monthly
chose this platform because it accommodates calls and Calendly, which is a scheduling
my courses in an organized way that no other software. I do my own food photography, so I
platform could at the time. My courses are use Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop to edit
certification courses with assignments, learning my photos.
assessments and multiple videos per lesson, so I My sales pages are on WordPress and I use
needed a true LMS platform that would be user- Elementor as the design tool. You have the
friendly for the students. I do not film my courses option to build your sales pages in Thinkific but
myself; I hired professional videographers for all the design capability is limited unless you know
my courses. It was really important to me in the how to code. For website hosting, I use Kinsta
beginning to have everything top quality. I also and when starting any business, I recommend
did not have the space to film; I rented Airbnb’s setting up an accounting software asap! I use
to film all my courses until recently. QuickBooks; I don’t know if it’s the best for
There are many tools and resources used in online businesses, but it’s serving me fine at the
the online course industry; it’s hard to name moment.

100 Pastry Arts

What advice do you have for What was the hardest part of getting
professionals who feel they are ready to your online teaching business
create a course or program relating to started?
their particular dessert expertise?
The hardest part for me was financing. I
I would say the first place to start is creating started with a comprehensive course – the
the course. Decide what kind of course you want Raw Desserts Chef Certification, which now
to offer and your target audience. Then start has over 100 videos, so hiring videographers
with an outline and develop the curriculum. That for this project was a costly investment.
is the most important part. Once you have that The technical work also for me to this day is
figured out, you can start filming and building it challenging because, as a creative, I’d rather
out. be in the kitchen creating, but most of my time
Once you have your course and you know how is spent on the computer. I hired a Thinkific
you would like to deliver it, I recommend signing expert to help me set up my Thinkific site and
up for all the free trials on the LMS platforms and do all the integrations. It was all way over my
start building out your course in each one to see head and I had to focus on reviewing videos
which platform is the most user friendly for you and creating the curriculum. As I mentioned
and will accommodate your course the way you above, don’t be afraid to ask for help! When
want. Hire out help where you need it! There is I started, I did not have a large audience, and
so much to learn and getting help where you can you don’t need one to offer an online course.
will save you a lot of time and frustration. Start small and build from there.

Tropical Lime
Coconut Entremet

Pastry Arts 101

 I’m also a little obsessed with chocolate,
so I’m all in anytime I can pair a new
flavor with chocolate. For my cookbook,
I created a double chocolate red velvet
brownie with fresh beets; it’s one of
my favorite recipes.

Zebra
Cheesecake

102 Pastry Arts

What are the common misconceptions What are some of the most challenging
that you find people have about raw parts of creating raw desserts that
desserts? people tend to struggle with?
The most common misconception from Definitely the preparation and organization,
someone new to raw desserts is they don’t because you’re not using processed ingredients.
taste good because they are healthier. This is Raw foods require more prep, especially if
furthest from the truth because raw desserts you’re making ingredients from scratch and
are made with natural, whole foods that hold soaking and sprouting to make the foods more
most of the flavor. Once they try them, most bioavailable. It could seem overwhelming when
people say they are more flavorful than their you’re first starting, especially if you have
baked counterparts. I’ve also had students who never worked with raw food before. But like
came from a baking background say that raw with anything new, once you get the hang of
frostings are much easier to work with than it and have more practice, it becomes easy and
traditional buttercream. you develop a flow. I don’t think the methods,
The other misconception is that all raw equipment and ingredient sourcing are more
cakes are made with cashews and dates. While challenging than cooking or baking. If you’re
cashews are an excellent ingredient to create using any piece of new equipment, it could be
a creamy texture in raw frostings and raw challenging at first until you get used to it, just
cheesecakes, I also create layered cakes that like any new method you’re learning.
look and have the same texture (if not better) The process of preparing raw food teaches
than baked cakes without using cashews or you how to be more organized. If you’re an
dates. I also use fewer dates than most raw organized person and already possess this skill, it
dessert chefs because they are too heavy when will be easier for you. If you are not, then it might
paired with nuts and other fats. In most of my be more of a challenge. This is why I set up my
crusts, I don’t use dates at all. courses the way I do; you start with the basics
The last common misconception is that the and then move on to the practical work. In our
ingredients used in raw desserts new course – Raw Food
are expensive. While they can Culinary Academy,
be costly if purchased at retail, because we teach all
I encourage the students to buy areas of raw food,
in bulk and wholesale, saving we really focus
a lot of costs. I have sourcing on organization,
lists in my courses with student scheduling your
discounts and educate them recipes and
on where to purchase them at preparation. Once
wholesale prices. We also make you find your
ingredients from scratch, such groove in the
as oat flour, coconut butter, and kitchen, it gets much
almond flour. Almond flour, for easier.
instance, is more expensive
than processing Tiramisu
down whole, raw Cake
almonds, which I
use a lot of in my
crust bases.

Pastry Arts 103

 “The process of
preparing raw food
teaches you how to be
more organized.”

What’s your favorite raw dessert

of all time?
It is difficult for me to pick a favorite; when I
create a new recipe, I’m famous for saying, ‘This
is my favorite recipe.’ Most of them are
my favorite, but I will name a few
of my current favorites. I tend
to favor the chocolate ones
more only because I love
chocolate. The current
favorites I created for
the new cookbook
are the Mocha Crisp
Cheesecake because
the texture and flavors
What are some of the crust on this cake,
of the flavor paired with chocolate
combinations you’re and coffee flavors, are
currently playing with? outstanding. The crust
Berries and Cream melts in your mouth. I
I recently finished writing a Coconut Cake mentioned briefly above the
cookbook while I was creating a new Double Chocolate Red Velvet
course, so I was experimenting with many Brownies. These were a huge success
different flavor combinations. A couple of because I wanted to create a raw brownie that
surprising flavor combinations I used in both resembled a moist baked brownie and this was
projects were beets, raspberry, chocolate achieved using fresh beets to provide moisture
and balsamic. I recommend trying it out; it’s and body along with other ingredients to create
definitely a winner. I also love to use spices and a cakey texture. The brownies are topped with
herbs in raw desserts where they make sense, a dark chocolate ganache and white chocolate
such as thyme and rosemary with orange and marble; it’s one dessert I could eat every day.
cardamom with almond. I’m also a little obsessed I also created a Tiramisu Cake for the book:
with chocolate, so I’m all in anytime I can pair a a three-layer cake with ‘baked’ cake layers,
new flavor with chocolate. For my cookbook, I mascarpone ‘cream’ filling, double chocolate
created a double chocolate red velvet brownie frosting, and an espresso cacao dust. It is one
with fresh beets; it’s one of my favorite recipes. of those cakes you would never guess is raw.

104 Pastry Arts

Can you share some tips for making now. And beyond that, I hope to have the
some of your desserts? opportunity to keep growing my business and
sharing my passion with others.
Yes, of course! Use molds to mold your desserts.
I use an 8-inch square pan to make the brownies,
line the pan with parchment paper and press the
brownies into the bottom of the pan. To even LINKS:
out the top, I use the back of a soup spoon. I
 Online Courses:
use small springform pans to mold the cake
https://crystaldawnculinary.com/courses/
layers and of course, for the cheesecake. When 
I pour a filling into a mold or springform pan,
Cookbook Pre-Order:
it’s important to lightly tap it on the counter or
https://crystaldawnculinary.com/shop-2/
a hard surface to even it out and release any air 
bubbles that have formed.
Instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/crystal_
What’s on the horizon for you and your dawn_culinary/
business?
 Facebook
I’m currently creating and filming some https://www.facebook.com/
masterclasses to offer smaller courses for crystaldawnculinary
those who want to learn my recipes but would
not like to enroll in a complete certification Email
program. My first published cookbook, The Art [email protected]
of Raw Desserts, is also set to release in early
December; it’s actually available for pre-order

Mint Chocolate Chip Ice Cream Red Velvet Brownies

Pastry Arts 105

Teacher Feature

Kathryn
Gordon
Chef-Instructor, Pastry & Baking Arts,
Institute of Culinary Education, New York, NY
By Tish Boyle

106 Pastry Arts

 A
desire to spend less time on the road motivated
Kathryn Gordon to leave her lucrative career as a
management consultant years ago and delve into
the more creative world of professional pastry. After
working in the pastry departments of three of the
busiest – and most famous – restaurants in New York City, where
she trained externs on the skills and nuances of crafting a range of
high-end desserts, she realized she enjoyed the process of teaching
pastry more than the production of pastry. So she switched gears
and became a culinary teacher, a job she has been doing for over
20 years, at the Institute of Culinary Education in New York, as well
as at a luxury hotel in the Loire Valley of France. Here she reflects
on her career path, her side business helping entrepreneurs make
their dreams come true, and the lessons she hopes to impart to her
students before they graduate.

What made you decide to leave a

successful position in management
consulting to pursue a career in pastry?
I think sometimes the path forward is very
planned out. Other times in life, we make
impromptu decisions that set us on an arbitrary
course for change. For me, I enjoyed consulting
but was unhappy from the constant travel as I
was away from my home base six nights every
week. So, very suddenly, I jumped at a chance
to change my life, thoroughly shocking my
father, and entered pastry school. The decision
to specifically study pastry was also spur of the
moment – a friend of a friend had just checked
out the options at a local pastry school which
turned out to be an excellent foundation in
classic French cuisine. I also pursued baking
because I had cooked a lot of savory at home,
and figured I knew absolutely nothing about
baking and would have a lot to learn. Of course,
I was right about that one, and it’s a continual
process to this day!

Pastry Arts 107

 How did you get into teaching?
When I was working in New York City at what
were at the time the three highest grossing
restaurants in the country (the Rainbow Room,
Tavern on the Green and Windows on the
World), there were many externs from many
states. I realized I was already “teaching” in
my day-to-day job, and that I really enjoyed
it. From that perspective, I spoke to Jacques
Torres (my former boss from Le Cirque and
Osteria del Circo), about teaching at a culinary
school at what was at the time the French
Culinary Institute (later ICC), but they did not
have any open positions then. So I got the only
job I ever got through the newspaper versus
the pastry network, teaching at the school that
was formerly the New York Restaurant School
that later became the Art Institute. I was
there for three years, and head of the pastry
department for the last two years. I went on
to teach at the Institute of Culinary Education
(ICE) in the pastry and baking department –
and this October, I will have been at ICE for
19 years! So yes, I still like being able to meet
people and help students pursue their goals.

108 Pastry Arts

What’s the most challenging thing in itself was the biggest challenge – at the
about your job, and what do you love time there was only one macaron book in the
most about it? world (translated from Japanese) and there
was a rush to market – all the recipe testing
The challenge is that everyone comes to the was concurrent with the writing, and we only
program with very different backgrounds and had five months to finalize the manuscript
goals, and yet we try to graduate students (versus two years for the contract on the
with a certain level of essential skills to enter second book).
industry jobs and attain their goals. Employers I had long realized that everywhere I
expect a certain level and as chef educators, we worked, macarons were made a different way
have to adapt and customize different teaching (and a large part of that is the ovens, which are
methods for different students. always a variable), but I was literally fascinated
by the different methodologies regarding
types of meringue (including all the variations
You co-wrote your first cookbook, Les
within each method), drying methods, baking
Petits Macarons, back in 2011, when strategies, etc. A few years before writing
macarons were going mainstream, and the book, when I was teaching a multitude
it became a best-seller. Macarons are of macaron classes to recreational students
notoriously problematic – what was because macarons were rapidly rising in
your strategy for making sure that popularity, I had started to interview various
readers of your book would be able to MOFs I knew from continuing education
master making macarons? classes, etc. as to which method they liked to
use. I literally wound up taking an average of all
The timing of the macaron book was truly weights and cooking times used by the MOFs
being in the right place at the right time! That for the base recipe I teach from.

Pastry Arts 109

What was the toughest part of writing from photo shoots to branding to distribution
the book? strategies!). The tool also features our book,
Food Business, Idea to Reality. We also work
Challenge-wise, we heavily tested everything with businesses opening cafes and bakeries,
to make sure it would work and be adaptable and work on everything from location analysis,
for home ovens – and styles of ovens in financial projections, kitchen design and
different countries. The book, after all, is for equipment procurement, menu development,
home bakers, and this later included some to staffing and training.
adaptations for the Chinese translation of the Over 20 years ago, the owner of Le Moulin
book because historically most Chinese homes Brégeon, which is a gorgeous country luxury
have not had ovens. hotel converted from a former wheat mill
and monastery in rural France, unexpectedly
showed up at school. This encounter led to the
Aside from your teaching job at the development of an annual, hands-on baking
Institute of Culinary Education, you and cooking program working with farmers,
have a couple of major side gigs. Tell learning about all types of food at the source,
us about Food Startup Help and the working with a variety of chefs and bakers,
classes you teach at Le Moulin Brégeon and truly having an immersive, farm-to-table
in the Loire Valley. experience.
Since then, I’ve worked with the chefs at the
My life partner, Jessie Riley, and I formed Food mill to write their cookbook, and continued
Startup Help (www.foodstartuphelp.com) to teach two to three programs there every
consulting services over 10 years ago, when season. Of course, the Loire region is famous
she realized that our business partner who I for its chateaux, sparkling wine and mushroom
taught with at ICE, Jeff Yoskowitz, and I were caves, and is adjacent to the fleur de sel
always meeting with alumni of ICE who wanted marshes – and we incorporate all of that in our
to open a food business or launch a product. course, as well as enjoying the mill’s organic
Culminating our combined years of experience, gardens, antique French linen on the beds and
we just launched a tool, LaunchAFoodProduct. candelabra. So I think everyone should join us
com, to help global entrepreneurs navigate the there and enjoy the peaceful countryside and
world of business plans, MSRP calculations, co- opportunity to cook in France. You can practice
packers, test production manufacturing runs, your French if you want to, but all the classes
nutritional labels (and everything else ranging are in English to make it easier.

110 Pastry Arts

What are some of the most important
techniques and ideas that you want
your students to learn and retain in
preparation for a career in the pastry
industry?
After teaching for quite some time, especially
when I had to teach a series of classes
for a private organization in a challenging
environment where I wasn’t even allowed to
turn the ovens on by myself – I came to a
realization. It’s all about getting the students
baking. It’s not about me showing them step-
by-step new techniques. For students to truly
absorb, my role is to explain, coach and assist.
It is the student’s role to learn the theory, Learning techniques comes before flavor, and I
practice basic skills, and retain those skills. And think it is a learned through tasting experiences,
ultimately, as they go on to their unique careers and the more students can get out there, and
in this industry, to begin to think creatively as travel, taste and evaluate – the more they
they understand the key techniques of how will learn about what pairs with what, how to
the recipes work and interact (emulsions, season and flavor their pastry, how to work
Maillard reaction, mixing methods, gluten, with textures and what their focus in passion
gelatinization, caramelization, tempering, etc.). and strength should be.

Pastry Arts 111

Recipe

Chocamole
and Chips
By Charity George

Sponsored by Ghirardelli
112 Pastry Arts
A s a Southern California native, and having spent most of my
life in San Diego, Mexican food has been a large part of my
culinary experience. Authentic Mexican food is especially
sought after here, as we are just 30 minutes north of the
Mexican border. I have always wondered what a dessert
version of the staple appetizer brought to every Mexican
food restaurant patron’s table would taste like. Here is
what I’ve come up with as the sweet version of chips,
salsa & guacamole, with a dessert “mocktail” margarita to wash it all down with.
It’s a cold, spicy, light, surprisingly healthy (and even vegan, for the most part)
dessert that probably shouldn’t work, but strangely, it’s súper delicioso¡.
Yield: 8 servings

3mm thick (the cookies will spread slightly,

Crispy Thin so leave some space between). Bake for
‘Tortilla Chip’ Cookies 10-12 minutes, until the edges are slightly
darker than golden brown. Let cool on the
• 337 g unsalted butter, softened (substitute pans, set on cooling racks, for about 4-5
vegan butter sticks if desired) minutes, then using a pizza wheel, cut into
6-8 triangular pieces, like tortilla chips. Let
• 200 g brown sugar
cool completely.
• 200 g granulated sugar
• 0.7 g sea salt
• 10 ml Mexican vanilla extract Chocolate Dip
• 2 large eggs
• 500 g Ghirardelli 72% Cacao Dark
• 280 g all-purpose flour Chocolate Chips
• 4 g baking powder • 80 g extra-virgin coconut oil
• 112 g finely chopped almonds
1. In a microwave-safe bowl, melt Ghirardelli
1. Preheat oven to 350˚F (177˚C). 72% Cacao Dark Chocolate Chips and
2. Cream together the butter and sugars, salt coconut oil in 40 second increments, stirring
and vanilla for about 5-6 minutes, until light between until smooth. Let cool for about 5
and airy. Add the eggs, one at a time, and minutes.
incorporate well. 2. Dip a portion of 1/2 the amount of ‘tortilla
3. Combine the flour and baking powder, then chip’ cookies in the chocolate mixture, let
add to the butter mixture half at a time, and excess drip off, then place on parchment-
mix until incorporated. Stir in almonds. lined sheet pans.
4. Line full sheet pans with parchment. Using a 3. Let the chocolate set up in a cool location.
2-oz scoop, place scoops on the parchment To serve, place some of each of the chips –
about 4-5ʺ (10.2-12.7 cm) apart, and spread both dipped and plain – in a bowl or basket,
out in a corn tortilla-sized circle, about accompanied by the ‘salsa’ and ‘guacamole’.

Pastry Arts 113

 banana pieces. To serve; spoon into a dish
Vegan Chocolate and top with a dollop of crème fraiche.
‘Guacamole’ Pudding
Spicy Raspberry Purée
• Flesh of 2 large Haas avocados
• Seeds scraped from 1 Tahitian vanilla bean • 340 g frozen raspberries
• 100 g Ghirardelli Majestic Cocoa Powder, • 100 g granulated sugar
sifted • 120 ml water
• 120 ml B grade pure maple syrup • 1 finely chopped ghost pepper (a jalapeño,
• 60 ml raw honey Serrano, or habañero pepper can be used
• 120-180 ml fresh tangerine juice as well, depending on the level of heat you
• 50 g coconut sticks, thinly shaved desire)
• 70 g dehydrated banana slices or
unsweetened banana chips, chopped 1. In a saucepan, cook the raspberries, sugar
coarsely and water along with the chili pepper until
reduced by half and slightly thickened.
• Crème fraiche, for garnish
2. Strain into a glass container, pushing
through the purée, and leaving the seeds
1. In a large, powerful blender, blend the and remaining chili pieces behind (discard).
avocado, vanilla bean seeds, cocoa powder, (The mixture can be thinned out with some
maple syrup, honey and 120 ml of the simple syrup if it becomes too thick.) Cover
tangerine juice together, scraping down the and refrigerate until cold.
sides as needed, until the pudding is smooth
and creamy. Add additional tangerine juice Note: the Spicy Raspberry Purée is meant to be
as needed. Scrape the pudding into a mixed into the cut fruits according to a patron’s
shallow, glass pan; cover and refrigerate for ‘heat index’ request (similar to when ordering Thai
about an hour. food, a patron requests a certain heat number
2. Once the pudding is cold, stir in the thin 1-10). For a ‘no-heat’ request, leave the base out
coconut shavings and coarsely chopped of the cut fruit. For a level 10, add a lot of it.

114 Pastry Arts

 White Chocolate
‘Margarita’ Mocktail
• 120 ml coconut milk
• 60 ml non-dairy creamer
Fruit ‘Salsa’ • 115 g Ghirardelli White Chocolate Flavored
Sweet Ground Powder
• 900 g strawberries • 25 ml cocktail lime juice
• 340 g raspberries, broken into • 500 ml ice
pieces • Margarita salt
• 1 large mango • Ghirardelli White Chocolate Flavored Sauce
• 4 large sprigs of chocolate mint • Lime slice, for garnish
(or regular mint) leaves removed,
stacked and cut into thin ribbons
1. Blend all ingredients except the last 3 together in a
• 120 g Ghirardelli Classic White
powerful blender until ice has fully broken down.
Barista Mini Chips
2. Rim a margarita glass with the Ghirardelli White
Chocolate Flavored Sauce and dip the rim into the
1. Mix all ingredients together. margarita salt. Pour the drink into the glass and
2. To serve, add the desired amount of garnish with the lime slice on the edge of the cup.
the Spicy Raspberry Purée, portion
into a dish and serve with the ‘chips’ *Note: To make this into a fully loaded cocktail, add 1.5
and ‘guacamole’. oz of good quality tequila

Pastry Arts 115

Recipe

Chocolate
Citrus Cake
By Angel Castillo

116 Pastry Arts

T he Chocolate Citrus Cake was inspired by the seasonal citrus from
Austin, Texas. I use oranges from local farmers that are ripe and
sweet, and pair them with a dark chocolate so that the orange
flavor stands out. I also wanted to add a touch of savory, which is
where the hickory smoked sea salt comes into play.

Yield: 24 servings

Guanaja Cake
• 126 g canola oil
• 126 g Valrhona Guanaja chocolate 70%
• 282 g egg yolks
• 282 g egg whites
• 275 g granulated sugar
• 55 g all-purpose flour
• 55 g cornstarch

1. Place oil and chocolate over double boiler

to melt. Emulsify, then set aside.
2. Whip egg yolks to ribbon stage.
3. Whip egg whites and sugar to medium
peaks. Fold into whipped yolks. Fold egg
mixture into chocolate in 3 stages.
4. Sift the dry ingredients together and fold 1. Melt the chocolate.
into the chocolate mixture. Spread batter 2. Whip the egg yolks and orange zest to the
in sheet pan and bake at 350˚F (177˚C) ribbon stage.
until done. 3. Cook the sugar with some water to 240⁰F
(115˚C), then pour slowly into yolks. Mix
until cooled.
Guanaja Citrus Mousse 4. Slowly fold the yolk mixture into the
chocolate in 6 stages.
• 476 g Valrhona Guanaja chocolate 70% 5. Whip the cream to soft peaks; fold into
• 
280 g egg yolks yolk mixture slowly.
• Finely grated zest of 1 orange 6. Pipe into 24 individual molds. Cut cake in
• 196 g granulated sugar rectangles and place on top of mousse.
• 896 g heavy cream Freeze.

Pastry Arts 117

 Chocolate-Coated Orange Gel
Puffed Rice
• 387 g orange concentrate
• 225 g milk chocolate • 113 g orange juice
• 75 g cocoa butter • 5 g agar agar
• 185 g puffed rice • 89 g granulated sugar

1. Bring concentrate, juice, agar agar and sugar

1. Melt the chocolate and the cocoa butter to a boil. Pour into pan and refrigerate until
together. set.
2. Add the puffed rice and stir until coated. 2. Process in blender until creamy and smooth.
Separate on lined sheet pan and allow to
set at room temperature.
3. Store in airtight container. Orange Foam

• 95 g orange juice
Dark Chocolate Spray • 12 g water
• 350 g dark chocolate • 8 g granulated sugar
• 2.5 g Versa Whip
• 150 g cocoa butter
• 1.5 g xanthan gum
1. Melt the chocolate and cocoa butter
together. Strain and spray while warm. 1. Whisk all ingredients in mixer until light
and fluffy.

118 Pastry Arts

 4. Using a clean, hot knife, cut into 0.6ʺ
Hickory-Smoked Sea Salted (1 cm) squares.
Chocolate Caramel
Assembly
• 375 g heavy cream
• 282 g granulated sugar
• Fresh orange segments, diced
• 38 g trimoline
• 263 g liquid glucose • Dulcey chocolate curl, for garnish
• 15 g unsalted butter, at room temperature • Dark chocolate round, for garnish
• 150 g Valrhona Guanaja 70%
• 75 g cocoa mass 1. Unmold frozen mousse desserts and
• 8 g hickory smoked sea salt spray with Chocolate Spray.
2. Place Chocolate Mousse in center of
1. Cook cream, sugar, trimoline and glucose to plate; add diced orange segments to
235˚F (113˚C). top. Pipe Orange Foam around mousse,
2. Add the butter and cook to 244˚F (118˚C). then spoon puffed rice alongside
Add the chocolate and cocoa mass. Pour dessert. Pipe Orange Gel organically
onto silicone baking mat-lined ¼ sheet pan around dessert. Place room temperature
with frame. Allow to set overnight. chocolate caramel on plate. Garnish
3. Cut into 0.6ʺ (1 cm) strips, lightly torch and with Dulcey chocolate curl and dark
sprinkle with hickory-smoked sea salt. chocolate round.

Pastry Arts 119

Angel Castillo
Executive Pastry Chef, Hyatt Regency
Scottsdale Resort & Spa, Scottsdale, AZ

Early Influence
Growing up, my family get-togethers always
had a strong focus on savory food, and I took
it upon myself from a young age to create
sweets for my family. Seeing the excitement
and enjoyment from eating something that I Current Flavor Favorites
made is what made me want to keep creating
With my Native American Navajo background,
and trying new things.
I try to use corn in unique and different ways.
It’s a very important part of our culture, not
Signature Style only for ceremonies but also as a food supply.
Balanced. I enjoy building flavor combinations, To turn it into something sweet and different is
textures, and colors that all contribute to fun and challenging.
creating an exciting and different dessert
experience that keeps the guest wanting more Production Tip
with each bite. I believe a dessert should not be
To master plated desserts, I suggest first
too sweet, and should look as good as it tastes
understanding the factors and resources you
and taste as good as it looks.
are working with and from there, you can set
yourself up for a streamlined approach.
Inspiration for New Recipes
I get inspired by seasonal ingredients. Using Technical Tip
an ingredient at its peak and allowing it to
I suggest making sure you have a good digital
be the star is motivational. Trying a new
scale and measuring your recipes in grams. The
ingredient that I’ve never had or used before
recipes can easily be scaled to larger or smaller
pushes my creativity as well. You never know if
sizes in a faster, more efficient way.
something pairs well with another flavor until
you try it. I begin by writing down the main
flavor profile and then start adding flavors Career Advice
that will complement it. From there, I sketch Be patient, practice, disciplined, and have a
out my idea of what it will look like. I try to good support system. This industry is not for
keep it interesting, modern, and clean. I draw everyone, and can be challenging. It requires
inspiration from fellow chefs, both pastry and more than just good cooking skills, and
savory. I also enjoy learning about different depending on what level you want to achieve,
cuisines and cultures and understanding how it is up to you to get there. Creating, satisfying,
to incorporate those spices and flavors into a and surpassing a guest’s experience is very
sweet dessert. rewarding.

120 Pastry Arts

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Recipe

Red Fruit
Charlotte By Aurelien Decaix

122 Pastry Arts

 I wanted to work on a cake that reminded me of being a kid. The
combination of the tonka bean and red fruits takes me back to
my childhood. I wanted to create a pastry that visually represented
a large piece of candy. I would love to bring that happiness and
nostalgic feeling to everyone. Is that not the goal of a pastry chef?
Yield: three 7ʺ (17.78 cm) cakes

2. In a separate mixer bowl, using a clean whisk

Decoration attachment, whip the egg whites with the
‘Cigarette Russe’ Mixture remaining 160 g of the sugar until a firm
meringue is formed, then add the pink food
coloring. Fold the whipped egg yolks into
• 100 g unsalted butter, soft
the meringue. When almost completely
• 100 g all-purpose flour folded in, sift the flour and potato starch on
• 100 g egg whites top and fold into the batter until smooth.
• 100 g granulated sugar 3. Spread 700 g of the batter on top of the dry
• 2 g white food coloring Cigarette Russe and bake for 7 minutes at
335˚F (168˚C).
1. Combine the butter, flour, egg whites and
sugar. Add the white coloring.
2. Using a pastry brush, draw vertical stripes
on a Silpat and allow to dry overnight.

Ladyfinger Sponge Cake

• 320 g egg yolks
• 320 g granulated sugar, divided
• 385 g egg whites
• 3 g pink food coloring
• 160 g all-purpose flour
• 160 g potato starch

1. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with

the whisk attachment, whip the egg yolks
with 160 g of the sugar to a mousse-like
texture.

Pastry Arts 123

 Tonka Bavaroise Cream
• 250 g whole milk
• 700 g heavy cream, divided
• 1 whole tonka bean, ground
• 100 g egg yolks
• 50 g granulated sugar
• 90 g gelatin mass (12 g gelatin powder plus
72 g water)

1. In a saucepan, boil the milk with 250 g of the

heavy cream. Add the ground tonka bean,
cover and allow to infuse for 15 minutes.
2. Combine the egg yolks and sugar and
temper into the infused cream mixture.
Continue to cook, stirring constantly, until
the temperature is 185˚F (85˚C). Pass the
mixture through a fine-mesh sieve over the
gelatin mass. Mix and cool down to 82˚F
(28˚C).
3. Whip the remaining 450 g of the heavy
cream to a soft texture. Fold the cream into
the yolk mixture.

Candied Red Fruits

• 120 g raspberry purée
• 140 g frozen red fruit mix
• 95 g granulated sugar, divided
• 2 g pectin NH
• 28 g gelatin mass (4 g gelatin powder plus
24 g water)

1. In a saucepan, heat the raspberry purée, the

frozen red fruit mix and 40 g of the sugar to
158˚F (70˚C). Add the pectin NH with the
remaining 45 g of sugar. Bring to a boil for 3
minutes, and then add the gelatin mass.
2. Pour 130 g into three 6.3ʺ (16 cm) round
cake molds and freeze.

124 Pastry Arts

 1. With a 7.08ʺ (18 cm) cutter, cut out 3 rounds
Syrup of the Ladyfinger Sponge Cake. Then cut
• 200 g simple syrup, cold three 22.83ʺ (58 cm) x 1.18ʺ (3 cm) strips of
this sponge cake to create the border of the
• 75 g blueberry water, cold
cake. Set aside.
• 10 g lime juice, cold
2. Fill the mold (Silikomart “Universo 1200”)
1. Mix all ingredients together. with 2/3 of the Tonka Bavaroise Cream.
Place the Candied Red Fruit in the cream.
Add some fresh red fruits and fill again with
Glaze a small amount of the cream, then seal with
the sponge cake. Freeze.
• 500 g neutral glaze
3. Place the cake on a baking rack and glaze
• 30 g strawberry purée
each cake with the pink neutral glaze. Stick
1. Mix the neutral glaze with the purée. the lady finger strip on the glaze to create a
border around the cake. To decorate, add a
ring of pink chocolate on the top of the cake
Assembly and fill with fresh red fruits. Garnish with
gold leaf.
• Pink chocolate ring garnish
• Fresh red fruits (raspberries, strawberries,
red currants)
• Gold leaf

Pastry Arts 125

Aurelien Decaix
Executive Pastry Chef,
Boulangerie Christophe,
Washington D.C.

Early Influence
My biggest influence was my dad, who is a chef.
I grew up in his kitchen, watching him cook,
and one day he asked me to help him make
a napoleon. We made it together and at that
moment I knew I wanted to be a pastry chef.

Signature Style
My pastries are inspired by my French culture.
I can describe my style as very precise and
technical. I aim to make beautiful pastries and
incorporate color as much as I can. I always
challenge myself to improve the recipes to
differentiate them from the competition while
keeping the flavor.
Technique Tip
Inspiration for New Recipes
Piping is my favorite technique. To pipe well,
In my daily life I find inspiration for pastries you need to start with good cream by focusing
outside of work in art, color, and nature. I on the texture first and keeping the cream
prefer to work with the seasons to ensure the cold. You need to know how to use a piping
quality of the fruit. I work with strawberries in bag, making sure not to over fill the bag and
the summer, apples in the fall, citrus in winter, perfecting the technique. This takes time and
and rhubarb in the spring. practice.

Current Flavor Favorites Career Advice

My partner introduced me to the açaí bowl
One day I was in a pastry competition with
and...I loved it. We don’t have açaí in France,
my professor in France working on a large
and since I tried it I can’t stop imagining a pastry
sugar piece. Ten minutes before the end of the
with this flavor. For the summer, I’m working
competition, one of the flowers fell on the floor
on an açaí eclair with a fine layer of macadamia
and broke. I lost my temper and my professor
granola on top.
told me, “The first quality of a pastry chef is to
be calm, so please breathe and cool down.” I
Production Tip took a breath and cooled down, and quickly
I use a lot of rectangular cake frames to make worked to fix the sugar flower. Now when
my pastries. This makes it easy to cut into someone on my team is frustrated because
individual pastries, no trash, and easy to stock they made a mistake, I cleverly give them the
in a freezer! same advice.

126 Pastry Arts

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Recipe

Peach
‘Upside’ Down
By Jordan Snider

128 Pastry Arts

T he inspiration for
this dish comes
from a classic
dessert. We have
amazing peaches in
South Carolina, and I wanted to
highlight them with a nod to the
classic Pineapple Upside-Down
Cake.
• 
240 g egg yolks
• 
240 g unsalted butter, melted
• 
150 g all-purpose flour
• 
10 g baking powder
Yield: 24 servings
1. Warm the almond paste (so that it will be
easier to incorporate with the eggs).
2. Whip the almond paste and slowly add the
whole eggs. Add the egg yolks and mix until
Caramelized Peaches smooth, then continue whipping until light
in color. Add the melted butter. Fold in the
• 
600 g peaches (fresh or IQF) sifted dry ingredients. Scrape into sheet
• 
100 g brown sugar pan and bake at 350˚F (177˚C) until golden
brown, about 12 minutes.
• 
40 g unsalted butter
• 
30 g honey
• 
4 g pectin NH Caramelized Puffed Rice
• 
2 vanilla beans, split and scraped
• 
50 g passion fruit purée • 
400 g granulated sugar, divided
• 
120 g water, divided
1. If using fresh peaches, first blanch and • 
200 g puffed rice
remove the skin. For either type, dice the • 
30 g cocoa butter
peaches uniformly for even cooking.
2. In a sauté pan, combine the brown sugar, 1. Using 200 g of the sugar and 60 g of the
butter, honey, pectin NH and vanilla beans water, make a sugar syrup and cook to 248˚F
over high heat. Allow to form a thick syrup, (120˚C). Add the puffed rice and allow to
then add the peaches and passion fruit cool on a silicone baking mat.
purée. Cook quickly and drain off excess 2. Using the remaining 200 g of the sugar
caramel, reserving the peaches. and 60 g of the water, make another sugar
syrup and cook to 248˚F (120˚C). Add all
the ‘sanded’ puffed rice and re-crystallize,
Pain de Genes then caramelize slowly as a praline. Add
the cocoa butter to prevent the cereal from
• 
750 g almond paste sticking together, and cool. Store in an
• 
480 g whole eggs airtight container with desiccant.

Pastry Arts 129

 Vanilla Bavarois
• 
3 vanilla beans
• 
250 g whole milk
• 
100 g egg yolks
• 
75 g brown sugar
• 
250 g heavy cream
• 
60 g gelatin mass (1:5)
• 
300 g whipped cream (soft peaks)
• 
100 g mascarpone cheese
• 
75 g skim milk powder
1. Infuse vanilla beans in the milk for 30 • 
5 g ice cream stabilizer
minutes. Strain and readjust the weight of • 
500 g Roasted Peach Purée (from above)
the milk to the original quantity. • 
50 g passion fruit purée
2. 
Whisk the egg yolks with the sugar and
add to the milk with the heavy cream. Cook 1. Combine the milk, cream and trimoline and
slowly, stirring constantly, until mixture heat to 122˚F (50˚C).
reaches 185˚F (85˚C). Add the gelatin mass
2. Combine the sugar, dextrose, milk powder
and strain. Refrigerate overnight.
and stabilizer and whisk into the liquid base.
3. Whip the anglaise base until loosened and Pasteurize at 185˚F (85˚C), strain and chill
airy, then fold in soft peaked whipped cream quickly to safe temperature, then refrigerate
and mascarpone and use immediately. overnight.
3. Burr mix the milk base with the roasted
Roasted Peach Purée peach and passion fruit purées for 2-3
minutes, until well combined.
• 
500 g peaches (fresh or IQF) 4. Churn in an ice cream machine to desired
firmness.
• 
50 g brown sugar

1. If using fresh peaches, blanch, then remove Assembly

the skin. Mix with brown sugar and roast
at 400˚F (204˚C) until caramelized on the • 
Gold leaf
edges. While still warm, blend smooth on
• 
White chocolate
high speed and strain. Cool overnight.
1. Cast white chocolate around a cylinder form.
Roasted Peach Ice Cream 2. Assemble the dessert à la minute: Put a
disc of pain de genes on the bottom of the
• 
210 g whole milk cylinder. Fill with some Vanilla Bavarois,
• 
100 g heavy cream then some Caramelized Puffed Rice. Scoop
some of the peach ice cream inside and
• 
20 g trimoline
then top with the Caramelized Peaches.
• 
120 g granulated sugar Decorate with a piece of gold leaf and serve
• 
40 g dextrose immediately.

130 Pastry Arts

Jordan Snider whether working on petits gateaux, plated
desserts or showpieces.
Executive Pastry Chef
The Sanctuary at Kiawah Island, SC
Current Flavor Favorites
I love to work with the classics: yuzu and
pineapple, peach and lemon verbena, chocolate
and pecan or different teas, etc. I think there
Early Influence is something to be said for simplicity and
sophistication. Know your clientele and what
I was fortunate to start my career under a
they are looking for, that is our primary focus.
couple of talented bakers who showed me the
We all try and make things that we enjoy and
ropes. At the age of 18 when most people I
in doing so, believe it will be passed on to our
knew were out late, I was getting up at 2 A.M.
guests. I’ve definitely been tasked to design
to bake. It set my foundation. I still go back and
cakes or desserts that aren’t to my taste, but
think about those times, totally carefree and
that’s the job of any professional – to do what
just learning a craft. There is something very
is required to make our guests happy!
rewarding about baking and looking at a full
production rack at the day’s end. I truly believe
this set me up to be where I am today. Production Tip
Practice technique, practice plating, put ideas to
Signature Style a plate, work on proper recipe theory, practice!
Like most chefs, I have my go-to items when I
I enjoy classic pastry and preparations, well-
need to achieve a response or impress a client.
executed and beautifully presented. Being from
Knowing how and when to use these skills
the Carolinas where we truly have a defined
is important. Treat your staff with respect, as
cuisine, our resort restaurants try to reflect
they’re any operation’s most valuable assets.
this. The desserts we offer are recognizable
Without my amazing team, past or present, I
and very simply, we try and entice our guests
wouldn’t be where I am – it’s that simple. Value
with comforting and seasonal flavors.
your own time and that of people you work with.

Inspiration for New Recipes Technical Advice

I take a lot of inspiration from my staff and For showpiece work, start small and be smart
fellow chefs. Sometimes ideas come through with mold usage. No need to build a big piece
brainstorming menus with our culinary team. with lots of visual holes just because. Let the
Oftentimes, I find that our best and most design highlight your skill-set and artistic
popular come about from working on a simple ability, then work to those strengths. Learn
concept or from a guest request. Very basically complementing colors and why they work
we take an idea/flavor profile/ingredient and together.
think about how to make it upscale. What
would make this interesting and stand out?
What would I think if I ordered this and received Career Advice
this plate? We start at these basic questions I had some fantastic mentors very early on.
and work towards a solution. I like simple My time spent in Las Vegas is most memorable
work with few frills or things to hide behind. for me and where I really came into my own.
I try and target a main visual component, idea I wish I could sum it up in one quote, but I
or flavor and add complementary aesthetics believe learning patience, appreciation, and
or components. This is my thought process, organization have all helped me to succeed.

Pastry Arts 131

Recipe

PASSION-
MANGO
By Juliana Hokkanen

132 Pastry Arts

T
Mango Gel Insert
his dessert will • 220 g mango purée
bring you a piece • 400 g granulated sugar
of summer. Here, • 200 g water
fresh mango • 12 g agar agar
and passion fruit
combine in a
1. Mix all the ingredients together. Put in
wonderfully creamy passion
a saucepan and bring to a boil. Run the
diplomat and fresh mango gel coagulated mass into a gel in a blender.
center. A perfectly crunchy Vacuum the air out. Pipe a diameter of 1.5ʺ
sablé base and top add the (4 cm) into a half sphere mold. Freeze.
perfect textural contrast to
this smooth, mouth-watering Passion Diplomat
dessert.
Yield: 24 servings • 340 g granulated sugar
• 60 g water
• 300 g passion purée
• 
40 g unsalted
butter
• 80 g cornstarch
Digestive Sablé • 80 g egg yolks
• 
280 g heavy
• 120 g unsalted butter, softened cream 36%
• 90 g granulated sugar
• 250 g graham wholemeal flour 1. Put the
• 2 g salt sugar, water,
• 60 g whole egg purée, and
butter in a
saucepan and
1. Whisk the butter and sugar together. Add bring to a boil.
the flour and salt, stirring as little as possible. Pour over the
Add the egg to the mixture, stirring a little. cornstarch and stir
Finish the dough by hand. until smooth. Add the
2. Roll the dough between two perforated yolks and cook to 183˚F
silicone mats until 2mm thick. Freeze the (84˚C). Strain and allow to
dough. cool.
3. When the dough is frozen, remove the mats 2. Break the structure of the cooled curd with
on both sides and cut out rounds with a a whisk. Whip the cream to soft peaks and
3.15ʺ (8 cm) diameter ring mold. Put on a fold into the curd. Pipe into Silicomart
silicone mat and bake at 300˚F (150˚C) for #sf206 molds. Add frozen Mango Gel
about 18 minutes. Insert to the center. Freeze.

Pastry Arts 133

 Vanilla Ganache
• 375 g heavy cream, divided
• 4 g vanilla bean
• 15 g glucose 40de
• 14 g invert sugar
• 50 g Valrhona Ivoire 35%
• 18 g cocoa butter

1. In a saucepan, bring 150 g of the cream,

vanilla, glucose and invert sugar to a boil.
2. Melt the chocolate with the cocoa butter
and emulsify it with warm vanilla cream.
Finish the emulsion with immersion blender.
Mix the remaining 225 g cream in and allow
to crystallize in the refrigerator overnight.
3. Whip just until lightened.

Passion Dip
• 600 g Valrhona Passion Fruit Inspiration
• 300 g cocoa butter
• 100 g cashews, crushed

1. Melt the chocolate and cocoa butter

together and add to the cashew nuts.

Assembly
• Fresh mango cubes
• Dark chocolate sticks
• Gold leaf

1. Dip the frozen Passion Diplomat in the

Passion Dip.
2. Put a Digestive Sablé under the dessert and
on top of it.
3. Pipe beautifully foamed Vanilla Ganache
around the edge of the sable on top.
Arrange mango cubes in the center. Garnish
with chocolate sticks and gold leaf.

134 Pastry Arts

Juliana
Hokkanen
Pastry Chef, WorldSkills Coach
and Teacher of Pastry Science,
Etelä-Savo Vocational College,
Mikkeli, Finland

Early Influence
After I had already been working as a pastry
chef, I determined that I wanted to study more
and become better at my craft. I met lots of
amazing chefs, but it was my teacher Outi
Suopanki who pushed me to believe in myself
and find my own way of doing things. It was
then that I found my own style as a teacher,
pastry chef and as a coach. Everything is
possible if you really want something.

Signature Style Production Tip

My style is minimalist and clear. I want Have a clear focus on what to do. Always
everything – flavors and appearance – to be make a plan on how to do things and calculate
balanced. everything. By doing that, multitasking and
creating new things comes much more easily.
Inspiration for New Recipes
I try to make time for myself to create new Technical Advice
pastries at least once a week. The Passion- As simple as it sounds, perfectly smooth and
Mango pastry was born because I went to silky ganache needs to be created by using high
the grocery store and found some beautiful quality products and a well calculated formula.
mangos and passion fruits and wanted to make To understand the formula of ganache, you
something new. need to know the ingredients and the technique
well.
Current Flavor Favorites
I really like earthy flavors. Right now I´m Career Advice
working with flavors that I can find in the forest First, say out loud what you dream of. Work
– mushrooms, spruce, lichen and lingonberry. to achieve it. Continue to learn throughout
All have interesting flavors and different your life – you will never learn everything, but
textures. I believe they fit together well. together we can achieve something bigger.

Pastry Arts 135

Recipe

Fresh
Summer Tart
with Macadamia, Lemon Verbena
and Strawberries

By Julie Mengel

136 Pastry Arts

S weet strawberries are definitely a favorite ingredient during
summertime. In this dessert, they’re mingled with fresh lemon
verbena and fat macadamia nuts, to create a dessert that is a
delicious combination of crunch, softness and perfume that
satisfies all of your senses.

Yield: 8 servings

Lemon Verbena Mousse Feuilletine

• 1.5 gelatin sheets • 50 g all- purpose flour
• 50 g lemon juice • 50 g confectioners’ sugar
• 50 g granulated sugar • 50 g melted butter
• ½ tsp vanilla paste • 50 g egg whites
• 5 g lemon verbena leaves
• 97 g heavy cream 1. Preheat the oven to 347˚F (175˚C).
• 50 g Greek yogurt 2. 
Combine the ingredients and smoothly
distribute the dough on a piece of parchment
1. Dissolve the gelatin in cold water for around paper in a thin and even layer. Bake it for 7
20 minutes. minutes or until golden brown. Let it cool
and crush it to small bits in a plastic bag.
2. Pour the lemon juice, sugar and vanilla paste
into a pot and heat it up to boiling point.
Remove from the heat and melt the gelatin
in the lemon syrup. Strain it into a high
container and leave it to cool at room
temperature until it´s 86˚F (30˚C).
3. Add the lemon verbena leaves and blend
with an immersion blender for about 1
minute. Allow to cool.
4. Whip the cream and mix it with the Greek
yogurt. Add a little bit of the cream to the
syrup and mix well. Then add the rest of the
cream and gently fold it together. Pour the
mousse into silicone molds and place it in
the freezer for at least 4 hours.

Pastry Arts 137

 Macadamia Short Crust Macadamia Frangipane
• 140 g all-purpose flour • 50 g macadamia flour
• 25 g macadamia flour • 50 g granulated sugar
• 50 g confectioners’ sugar • 50 g unsalted butter, softened
• ½ tsp ground cardamom • 25 g whole egg
• Pinch of salt • ¼ tsp ground cardamom
• 75 g unsalted butter, cold and cubed
• 25 g whole egg 1. Preheat the oven to 392˚F (200˚C).
2. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with
1. Blend the all-purpose flour, macadamia the paddle attachment, beat the macadamia
flour, confectioners’ sugar, cardamom, salt, flour, sugar, butter, egg and cardamon until
and butter cubes in a food processor for a light and fluffy.
few seconds until combined. Add the egg 3. Add a thin layer of frangipane in each of the
and quickly blend again. Roll it out between tart shells, then add a tsp of the feuilletine
two pieces of parchment paper. Let it rest in on top of the frangipane and bake for about
the refrigerator for around an hour. 15 minutes. Let cool completely.
2. Gently place the dough into 4 tartlet pans
(3.5ʺ/9 cm diameter). Trim the edges of the
dough with a sharp knife to fit the tart pans.
Place the tart shells in the refrigerator while
making the frangipane.

138 Pastry Arts

 Macadamia Praline
• 60 g granulated sugar
• 60 g macadamia nuts
• ½ tsp salt
• 60 g Callebaut Gold caramel chocolate
30.4%

1. Melt the sugar in a saucepan over medium

heat until it turns to golden caramel.
2. Remove the pan from the heat, add the
nuts and quickly mix them with the caramel.
Pour the mixture onto a piece of parchment
paper and let it cool completely at room Add the fresh diced strawberries and let the
temperature. content cool down to 68˚F (20˚C).
3. Chop it into smaller pieces, put it in a 3. 
Divide the strawberry mixture among
blender with the salt and blend until it turns the tart shells and leave it to set in the
to macadamia butter (it takes a long time – refrigerator.
have patience).
4. Melt the chocolate in a microwave and add
it to the macadamia butter. Blend it again Chocolate Straws
and add a thin layer of praline in each of the
tart shells and place them in the refrigerator • 200 g dark chocolate 70%
until it sets.
1. Temper the chocolate and pour it into a
Strawberry and pastry bag. Cut a small hole in the bag and
make long straws of chocolate on plastic.
Rose Pepper Layer Leave it to set, then gently remove the
plastic.
• 1.5 gelatin sheets
• 300 g frozen strawberries
Assembly
• 45 g granulated sugar
• 25 g lemon juice
• Fresh lemon verbena leaves
• 15 crushed rose (pink) peppercorns
• 100 g fresh diced strawberries
1. Remove the mousses from the silicone
molds and place one in the center of a plate.
1. Dissolve the gelatin in cold water for about Do the same with the remaining mousses.
10 minutes. Let thaw in the refrigerator.
2. Put the frozen strawberries, sugar, lemon 2. Cut the 4 tarts into 8 halves and place each
juice and crushed peppercorns in a pot half beside a mousse. Decorate the tarts
and heat gently. Let it simmer for about 10 with fresh lemon verbena leaves. Decorate
minutes, then pour through a strainer and with 2 Chocolate Straws on top of each
save the juice. Melt the gelatin in the juice. mousse and serve.

Pastry Arts 139

Julie Mengel
Pastry Chef,
Copenhagen, Denmark

Early Influence
I grew up in the countryside, where my mother
had a garden full of vegetables, fruits and
berries. Thus, from an early age I cultivated
a playful approach to tasting and began
combining the different things I could find in
her garden. For example, eating peas and then
eating strawberries. It gave me some unusual
impressions that I still use today.

Signature Style
Simple, graphic and organic. Maybe a little
Nordic inspired.

Inspiration for New Recipes Production Tip

I often start the process by choosing a certain I would say that thinking the process through
color or form and then work my way from before jumping into it is very important. Study
there. For example, green: lime, pear, kiwi, the recipe thoroughly before getting started.
woodruff etc. I then think about in which
combinations I can use the different green Technical Advice
elements and what other things might work The mousse: It´s very important to use the right
well with them. measurements. Both the temperature and the
ingredients have to be very accurate, so don’t
Current Flavor Favorites freestyle there.
I am currently exploring combinations of yuzu,
woodruff and hazelnut. On their own, each of Career Advice
these has a unique and characteristic flavor, Don´t be afraid of trying something new. And
and for my own curiosity, this combination don’t give up. Do it again and again and again
could be very interesting. and allow yourself to learn from it every time.

140 Pastry Arts

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Recipe

Nocciola
By Noelle Marchetti

142 Pastry Arts

T he Nocciola at Yolan is a decadent dessert inspired by Baci
Perugina treats, which were created in the region around
Perugia, Italy. This dessert features various elements of
chocolate, hazelnut, chicory, and espresso. We also utilize
many textures, like an airy mousse, chewy meringue, crunchy
caramel, and creamy Italian gelato. It’s the absolute perfect
dessert for anyone with a sweet tooth.

Yield: 24 tarts

Chicory Caramel Mousse Aero Chocolate

• 250 g heavy cream • 200 g Valrhona Guanaja chocolate
• 4 g ground chicory spice • 56 g vegetable oil
• 425 g granulated sugar, divided • 3 ISI chargers
• 20 g unsalted butter
• 30 g gelatin sheets, bloomed 1. Melt the chocolate and oil over double
• 162 g egg yolks boiler to 100˚F (38°C). Cover double boiler.
• 1000 g heavy cream, softly whipped 2. Pour into ISI can and charge 3 times with
cream charger. Dispense onto a frozen pan
lined with acetate. Store in the refrigerator
1. In a small pot, combine 250 g of the cream and break as needed.
with the chicory and heat until hot. Cover
and allow to infuse for 10 minutes. Set
aside. Milk Chocolate Glaze
2. In a larger pot, make a dry, dark caramel with
300 g of the sugar. Deglaze the caramel with • 200 g heavy cream
the chicory cream, butter, and the drained • 166 g praline paste
gelatin. Set aside.
• 600 g Valrhona Absolu Cristal neutral glaze
3. In a small pot, cook the remaining 125 g
sugar to 240°F. In a stand mixer, whip the • 133 g water
yolks until light and fluffy. When sugar • 466 g Valrhona Jivara chocolate
reaches 240°F, stream into whipping yolks • 15 g gelatin, bloomed
and continue to mix until cool.
4. Add the warm caramel to the yolk mixture 1. In a pot, heat the cream, praline paste,
in stages and fold gently. Fold in the soft neutral glaze and water until boiling.
whipped cream and pipe the mousse into Pour over chocolate and drained gelatin.
molds. Immersion blend and strain.
2. Chill before using at 90°F (32˚C).

Pastry Arts 143

 Hazelnut Tuile Hazelnut Bavarian
• 100 g milk • 200 g heavy cream
• 250 g unsalted butter • 166 g vanilla sauce
• 100 g glucose • 6 g gelatin sheets, bloomed
• 5 g NH pectin • 50 g Valrhona Jivara chocolate
• 300 g granulated sugar • 50 g Valrhona Gianduja hazelnut chocolate
• 100 g cacao nibs • 66 g chopped hazelnuts, toasted
• 200 g chopped hazelnuts
• Maldon salt, to taste 1. In a stand mixer, whip the cream to soft
peaks. Set aside.
1. In a pot, heat the milk, butter and glucose 2. Heat the vanilla sauce and drained gelatin
until melted. until the gelatin is completely melted. Pour
2. Mix the pectin and sugar together. Add to over chocolate and immersion blend.
the hot mixture and whisk well. Cook to 3. Fold the chocolate mixture into the whipped
223˚F (106°C) while whisking constantly. cream and add toasted chopped hazelnuts.
Add the nibs, hazelnuts and salt. Spread in a Pipe into quenelle mold and freeze.
thin layer on parchment and freeze.
3. Bake at 315°F (157˚C) for 12 minutes, or
until dark golden brown.
Chicory Chantilly
4. Once the tuile is removed from the oven,
immediately cut 0.78ʺ x 6ʺ (2 cm x 15 cm) • 111 g heavy cream
using a sharp knife. Store in a dry place. • 6 g chicory
• 7 g crushed espresso beans
• 40 g white chocolate

1. In a pot, bring the heavy cream,

chicory and crushed espresso
beans to a boil. Turn off the
heat and let the mixture
stand for 10 minutes.
2. Strain over the
white chocolate and
immersion blend.
3. Chill overnight
before whipping
to soft peaks.

144 Pastry Arts

 Chicory Meringues
• 100 g granulated sugar
• 20 g water
• 50 g egg whites
• Chicory, for sprinkling

1. Cook sugar and water to 243˚F (117°C).

2. In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk
attachment, whip the egg whites until
foamy. Pour the sugar mixture over the
whipping egg whites and whip to stiff peaks.
Pipe in lines on silicone baking mat with
small round tip. Sprinkle with chicory and
dehydrate at 215°F (102˚C) for 17 minutes,
or until crisp.
3. Break into 3ʺ (7.6 cm) sticks and store in a
dry place.

Hazelnut Sablé
• 105 g unsalted butter
• 79 g confectioners’ sugar
• 3 g black pepper
• 3 g salt
• 44 g eggs
• 208 g all-purpose flour
• 36 g hazelnut flour
Toasted Meringue
1. In a stand mixer, cream the butter, sugar,
• 100 g granulated sugar
pepper and salt until fluffy.
• 20 g water
2. Slowly stream in the eggs, scraping the sides
between additions. • 50 g egg whites
3. Add all-purpose and hazelnut flours and
mix until homogenous. 1. In a pot, cook the sugar and water to 240°F
4. Remove from the mixer and roll small (115˚C).
sections of the dough between parchment 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer, using the
paper to 1/8ʺ (3.2 mm) thickness. Chill until whisk attachment, whip the egg whites until
firm. foamy. Stream in the sugar mixture and
5. Cut out large circles matching the diameter whip until cool.
of the mold. Bake on silicone baking mat 3. Spread the finished meringue on a sheet
at 325°F (163˚C) for 8-10 minutes, or until pan and toast until black. Stir and repeat
golden brown. Store at room temperature. until all meringue is brown. Set aside.

Pastry Arts 145

 Assembly
• Toasted Hazelnuts
• Tempered Chocolate Rings

Gold Leaf
1. Melt the glaze to 90°F (32˚C) and blend
with immersion blender until smooth. Glaze
half of the Chicory Caramel Mousse ring
and place on top of the Hazelnut Sablé.
2. Crumble a bit of the Hazelnut Sablé to use
under gelato.
3. Spread a thin layer of glaze on a plate,
starting from left to right. Place the glazed
mousse and sablé in the center of the plate,
covering the right edge of the glaze swipe.
Pipe two Chicory Chantilly kisses on either
side of the mousse – one on top, one on
the bottom. Place two toasted hazelnuts
Italian Meringue Gelato and two pieces of Aero Chocolate next to
the Chantilly. Place a Hazelnut Tuile stick
• 375 g milk on top of the mousse to the right side of
• 28 g milk powder the ring, and place one Hazelnut Bavarian
• 138 g heavy cream quenelle on top. Lean a tempered chocolate
ring against the Bavarian quenelle. Lean
• 8 g trimoline two meringue sticks against the front of the
• 8 g stabilizer mousse ring and finish with gold leaf on the
• 83 g granulated sugar glaze. Quenelle Italian Meringue Gelato and
• 13 g egg yolk place to the right of the mousse on a bed of
crumbled Hazelnut Sablé.
• 150 g Toasted Meringue

1. In a pot, heat the milk, milk powder, cream

and trimoline.
2. In a bowl, mix the stabilizer, sugar and yolk
into a paste.
3. When the milk comes to a boil, temper
it into the yolk mixture while whisking.
Return the mixture to the pot and bring to
181˚F (83°C) while stirring constantly with
a spatula. Add the Toasted Meringue and
fold gently. Chill overnight.
4. Strain the base, then blend with immersion
blender. Process in ice cream machine.

146 Pastry Arts

 toasted grains all
Noelle bring a unique
flavor profile to a
Marchetti sweet dessert. As
the pastry world
Executive Pastry Chef, grows, guests are
Yolan at The Joseph, Nashville, TN more interested in
stepping out of their
comfort zones to try
new or different flavors.
Early Influence For me, it’s a fun lightbulb
My grandfather was extremely influential moment to see the surprise and delight of
and played a key role in my decision to enter guests realizing how compatible two different
the pastry world. As a child, I would joyfully flavors can be together.
watch him tinker with recipes, testing how
far one could be modified. Watching him, I Production Tip
was fascinated with the science behind all
things pastry and how even the smallest of I highly recommend practicing ‘mise en place’,
alterations could drastically change a recipe. I which means ‘putting in place’, and refers to
was ultimately drawn to the organization of the the setup and arranging of ingredients before
process and the predictability of the results! starting to cook or bake. The key to multitasking
and efficiency in an active kitchen is to have
all your tools and ingredients easily at your
Signature Style fingertips. Preparation and organization make
My style in pastry can best be described as daunting or difficult tasks much easier and
modern and geometric. I find pleasure in plating allows you to instead focus on the details at
pastry creations that embody different shapes hand.
and clean lines. In each of my desserts, you’ll
find a mix of elements for the eye to take in: Technique Tip
shape, texture, and color.
Chocolate tempering is a technical process in
pastry that I have had to master throughout
Inspiration for New Recipes my career. Practice makes perfect. I suggest
My process for creating desserts comes in starting with a small bowl of chocolate and
various forms. Sometimes, it starts simply with using a reliable thermometer. Over time, feeling
a particular flavor profile, and other times, the temperature of the bowl with your wrist
it starts with something more niche, like a can also help gauge the stage of the temper.
piece of pottery I find visually appealing and
interesting. I draw a lot of inspiration from Career Advice
chocolate and flavors that pair well with it,
specifically, Valrhona chocolate. With so many Teamwork is the key to success. With so many
different flavor notes among the Valrhona moving parts in a hotel pastry department, it
chocolate line, there is always a flavor and taste is imperative to be able to rely on my team.
that matches what I am looking for. They inspire me, push me, and maintain our
standards in the highest regards. Very early in
my career, I recognized the importance of giving
Current Flavor Favorites credit where it is due and acknowledging those
Lately, I have been loving the opportunity to that help every step of the way. Having a team
explore savory and sweet combinations. Things that is loyal and empowered is something that
like pink peppercorn, sweet parsley, and dark should never be taken for granted!v

Pastry Arts 147

Recipe

Chocolate
and Hazelnut
Entremet By Nour Kandler

148 Pastry Arts

T his entremet combines
classic flavors with a
variety of textures.
I love the richness
and nuttiness of the
hazelnut praliné,
the contrasting smoothness of
the milk chocolate ganache and
the fluffiness of the financiers.
The entremet is finished off with
•
•
•
•
Hazelnut Praliné*
100 g hazelnuts with skins
100 g hazelnuts without skins
150 g superfine granulated sugar
2 g fleur de sel
*Note: This recipe requires a total of 180 g
of praliné. Store remaining praliné in a jar for
another use.
1. Spread the hazelnuts evenly on a large
tray under a silicone mat and roast them at
338˚f (170˚C) for 15-17 minutes, then set
a shiny cocoa mirror glaze and aside to cool slightly.
dipped in a sublime caramel- 2. Make a dry caramel with the sugar.
chocolate glaçage gourmand. 3. Pour the caramel over the hazelnuts and
making it super gourmand, and the allow to cool before transferring it to the
perfect indulgent dessert. bowl of a food processor. Add the salt
and process until the praliné has a runny
Yield: 6 servings consistency.
Tip: The darker the caramel is, the more bitter in
taste it will be. Be careful not to over-caramelize
it. Roasting the hazelnuts will achieve a nuttier
flavor that will enhance the praliné.

Whipped Milk Cocoa Pâte Sucrée

Chocolate Ganache
• 45 g all-purpose flour
• 225 g double cream, divided • 4 g almond flour
• 10.5 g gelatin mass (1.5 g 200-bloom • 20 g confectioners’ sugar
powdered gelatin mixed with 9 g water) • 5 g cocoa powder
• 75 g Callebaut milk chocolate 33.6% • Pinch of salt
• 30 g unsalted butter, chilled and cut into
cubes
1. Heat 125 g of the cream in a pan over • 10 g whole egg
medium heat. When the cream starts to
simmer, remove from the heat, add the
gelatin mass and mix until dissolved.
2. Pour the hot cream over the chocolate
and mix until the chocolate is melted and
well combined. Pour over the remaining
100 g cream and mix until everything is
combined. Cover the surface with plastic
wrap and chill in the refrigerator for a
minimum of 6 hours.

Pastry Arts 149

1. In a stand mixer, mix together the flours, 1. Make the buerre noisette and set aside to
confectioners’ sugar, cocoa powder and cool slightly.
salt. Add the butter cubes and mix with 2. In a bowl, combine all the flours,
the paddle attachment on low speed until confectioners’ sugar and egg white and mix
you have a crumbly mixture. Add the egg well. Add the beurre noisette and mix well.
and continue mixing until a smooth dough Spread into a small silicone lined tray and
forms. Wrap dough in plastic wrap and chill bake for 12 minutes at 356˚F (180˚C). Cool.
for at least 2 hours. 3. Use the inside Silikomart cutter to cut out 6
2. Once chilled, roll the dough out to 2 mm pieces. Set aside until assembly.
thickness, then use the outside of Silikomart
Fashion Eclair 80 mold set cutter to cut out
6 pieces, then transfer to a perforated mat. Glaçage Gourmand*
Chill for another 30 minutes.
3. Place another perforated mat on top of the • 250 g Callebaut Gold Caramel Chocolate
short crust and bake for about 12 minutes 30.4%
at 329˚F (165˚C). • 37 g neutral oil
• 42 g chopped roasted hazelnuts
Hazelnut Financier
*This recipe requires a quantity to be deep
• 38 g beurre noisette enough for dipping the entremet in. Save
• 33 g almond flour remaining glaçage for another recipe.
• 5 g hazelnut flour
• 15 g all-purpose flour
• 45 g confectioners’ sugar
• 53 g egg white

150 Pastry Arts

1. Melt the chocolate over a bain-marie.
Remove from the heat and use a rubber
spatula to mix in the oil. Add the hazelnuts.
2. Use at 93˚F (34˚C).

Chocolate Mirror Glaze

• 150 g glucose syrup
• 150 g superfine granulated sugar
• 100 g double cream
• 50 g water
• 72 g gelatin mass (10 g 200-bloom
powdered gelatin mixed with 62 g water)
• 50 g 100% cocoa powder

1. In a saucepan, bring the glucose syrup,

sugar, double cream and water to a boil
over medium heat. As the mixture is about
to reach the boiling point, remove from the
heat, add the gelatin and mix until dissolved
2. Sift the cocoa powder into a pitcher, then
pour the mixture over the cocoa powder and
use a hand blender to blend, being careful
not to create too many air bubbles. Cover
the surface with plastic wrap. Use the glaze
at around 95˚F (35˚C).

Assembly
• A handful of roasted hazelnuts and 2. Unmold the entremets and place them on a
wire rack ready. Freeze while you make the
hazelnut skins
glaze and glaçage.
• Gold leaf
3. Bring the mirror glaze to 95˚F (35˚C) and
transfer to a pastry bag. Put the Glaçage
1. Lightly whip the milk chocolate ganache Gourmand into a container that is deep
until it has a stable consistency, but is enough for dipping. Take the entremets out
spreadable. Transfer to a pastry bag and of the freezer and place the wire rack over
pipe into the Silikomart Fashion Eclair mold, a baking tray. Pipe the mirror glaze over the
then use a small spatula to coat the sides. entremets, then place two sticks on either
Pipe about 30 g of Hazelnut Praliné in the side of the entremet and carefully lift it and
mold. Place the financier on top, then pipe dip the bottom into the Glaçage Gourmand
some more ganache into the sides and before placing it onto the pâte sucrée bases.
top and use the spatula to coat and make Remove the sticks and decorate with the
smooth. Freeze overnight. hazelnuts, hazelnut skins and gold leaf.

Pastry Arts 151

Nour Kandler
Pastry Chef, London, England

Early Influence
My eldest sister, Sarah, was the brilliant baker who
inspired me to experiment in the kitchen. My late
mother’s continual encouragement to follow my
passion for pâtisserie was also critical in pursuing
that passion. One recipe led me to discover the
beauty that is delicate French patisserie, and the
rest is history.

Signature Style
My style is delicate, elegant and colorful, and
I decorate my pâtisserie in a way where every
main element used in that recipe is reflected in advance to save prep time on the day of creating
the garnish. I also like combining classic flavors the full pâtisserie. Start with the element that
with unusual ones, as well as creating innovative needs the longest time to set and then the next
Middle Eastern-French fusions. and so on. Also, always freeze leftover elements
(that can be frozen) to use later, because that’ll
Inspiration for New Recipes save money and reduce food wastage.
My inspiration comes from various outlets,
such as using leftover ingredients to invent new Technical Advice
recipes, or my travels to Paris for patisserie tasting Praliné is a simple, yet tricky, one to get the perfect
and trend-spotting. When I return, I experiment consistency for. Darker caramel indicates more
by combining the flavors I tried during my trip. bitterness, so be careful not to over caramelize
Maison Aleph in Paris is especially inspiring to me, it. Roasting your hazelnuts will achieve a more
as I haven’t come across Middle Eastern flavors nutty flavor that will enhance the Praliné. When
and textures being incorporated into pâtisserie; assembling a frozen entremet, it’s important
they inspired me to go back to my roots and to make sure that the mirror glaze and glaçage
experiment with Arabic flavors. gourmand is ready to go at the right temperature
and consistency. Using two sticks to insert into
Current Flavor Favorites the entremet sideways ensures it doesn’t fall out
I am currently testing black sesame and raspberry when dipping into the gourmand. The entremet
recipes, which are not often used together in needs to be well frozen without any frosting on
pâtisserie. I love the nuttiness you get from the it in order to have a clean mirror glaze that will
black sesame, complemented by the sharpness stick to it.
of the raspberry. Other flavors I’m currently
exploring are rose water and orange blossom, Career Advice
particularly orange blossom with pistachio, as Don’t be afraid of failure; it is part of the process
they carry very Middle Eastern flavor notes. in becoming a good pastry chef. You need to
fail and try again in order to succeed and not be
Production Tip afraid of experimenting with different techniques
I believe that in order to work efficiently, you need and flavors. I say, “Where there is passion, there
to plan ahead by preparing certain elements in is exquisite pâtisserie.”

152 Pastry Arts

Agence Cru - Photo credits: Ymagoo, Cherrystone

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Recipe

Elsa
By Richard Hawke

154 Pastry Arts

 I love pairing dark chocolate and sour cherries. I have been working
hard recently to improve my vegan chocolate mousse, and after
I found the perfect recipe, I wanted to create this dessert. It is
very simple, but when done well it is impossible to guess that it is
vegan. This, in my opinion, is how vegan pastry should be done.
The focus should be on the visual, textures and flavors.

Yield: 16 petits gateaux

Chocolate Cake Sour Cherry Coulis

• 52 g Weiss Galaxie Noir 67% couverture • 426 g sour cherry purée (Capfruit)
• 77 g grapeseed oil • 15 g water
• 21 g invert sugar • 8.5 g pectin 325NH95 (Louis François)
• 265 g water • 50 g superfine granulated sugar
• 147 g all-purpose flour
• 25 g cornstarch 1. Heat purée with water to 122˚F (50°C). Add
• 21 g cocoa powder pectin mixed with sugar and blend before
• 10.5 g baking powder heating to 185˚F (85°C). Pour 15 g per insert
into 2ʺ (5 cm) diameter silicone molds. Place
• 2.1 g potato protein (Louis François) chocolate cake disc and lightly press before
• 3.5 g salt ‘fleur de sel’ blast freezing.
• 84 g caster sugar

1. Melt couverture with oil and invert sugar

to 100-104˚F (38-40°C). Add a small
amount of the water before pouring onto
dry ingredients. Whisk, and gradually add
remaining water, making sure that no lumps
form.
2. Spread to 4 mm thick with Raplette onto
a silicone mat. Bake at 338˚F (170°C) for
8-10 minutes. Cool before cutting 2ʺ (5 cm)
diameter discs for assembly.

Pastry Arts 155

 • 8 g pectin X58 (Louis François)
Li Chu 64% Mousse • 2 g calcium lactate
• 411 g water, divided • 100 g coconut oil
• 3.5 g pectin 325NH995 (Louis François) • 3 g liquid sunflower lecithin
• 0.7 g calcium lactate (Louis François)
• 70 g inulin (Louis François), divided 1. Heat glucose with water and 150 g of the
sugar to 122˚F (50°C). Add cocoa powder
• 210 g Weiss Li Chu 64% couverture(Weiss)
mixed with pectin, calcium lactate and
• 3.5 g pea protein (Louis François) remaining 60 g caster sugar. Heat to 185˚F
• 0.2 g xanthan gum (Louis François) (85°C) before pouring onto coconut oil and
lecithin. Emulsify with hand blender and
1. Heat 310 g of the water to 122˚F (50°C). refrigerate for use.
Add the pectin mixed with calcium lactate
and 21 g of the inulin before blending with
a hand blender. Heat to 185˚F (85°C) and Finishing
pour onto couverture. Emulsify with hand
blender and cool to 95-104˚F (35-40°C). Unmold and glaze with Cocoa Glaze melted to
2. Blend the remaining 101 g water with the 95-104˚F (35-40°C) and place onto support
pea protein, xanthan gum and the remaining (cake board or a platter). Place chocolate logo
49 g inulin before whipping to form a stamp on top to finish.
creamy meringue. Fold a small amount of
the meringue into the cooled chocolate
base. Fold back into remaining meringue to
finish. Pour into disc molds and place insert Chef Richard Hawke is a gluten-free guru
inside, smooth the top and blast freeze for whose pastry quest is constantly evolving.
finishing. His current research has him focused on lactose-
free and various vegan products. Find more
information at richardhawkepastry.com or on
Cocoa Glaze Instagram at @richardhawkepastry.

• 150 g glucose
• 407 g water
• 210 g superfine granulated sugar, divided
• 120 g cocoa powder

156 Pastry Arts

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Recipe

Evocao™
Plant-Based
Filled Sablé
By Dimitri Fayard,
Lead Chef, Gourmet Brands USA,
World Pastry Champion 2008

158 Pastry Arts

I
WholeFruit Chocolate
wanted to create a Hazelnut Spread
plant-based filled sablé,
which is traditionally • 350 g American Almond whole hazelnuts
a very indulgent • 150 g turbinado sugar
treat. The idea is for
• 2 g Nielsen Massey vanilla beans, split
the experience to be
indulgent while also being health • 3.85 g fleur de sel
conscious. A small amount of • 
128 g Evocao™ WholeFruit Chocolate,
ganache is needed on the sablé in tempered
order for the enrobing to adhere. • 85 g coconut oil
Omitting the ganache will cause the
enrobing to peel off the sablé. 1. Roast the whole hazelnuts at 320˚F (160˚C)
Yield: 30 servings for 20 minutes.
2. Caramelize the turbinado sugar to 365˚F
(185˚C). Pour the caramel over the
split vanilla beans and fleur de sel. Cool
completely.
3. Once cool, process the caramel and
hazelnuts in a Robot Coupe. Once you’ve
reached the desired thickness, add the
tempered Evocao™ WholeFruit Chocolate
Plant-Based Sablé and coconut oil. Temper and spread to 82˚F
(28˚C). Cast over a sablé in a 7.8ʺ x 11.8ʺ x
0.6ʺ (20 x 30 x 1.5 cm) frame. Top with the
• 227 g pastry flour second sablé.
• 83 g American Almond hazelnut flour
• 2 g salt
• 127 g coconut oil
• 67 g water
• 80 g confectioners’ sugar
• 33 g Extra Brute cocoa powder

1. Sift the dry ingredients together.

2. Mix the dry ingredients with a paddle
attachment while adding the coconut oil and
water. Mix until a uniform dough forms.
3. Roll dough out between 2 sheets of
parchment paper to a thickness of 3 mm. Cut
out two 7.8ʺ x 11.8ʺ (20 x 30 cm) rectangles
from the dough and place them on a sheet
pan that is lined with a silicone baking mat.
Bake at 320˚F (160˚C) for 20 minutes.

Pastry Arts 159

 WholeFruit Chocolate
Plant-Based Ganache
• 87.5 g hazelnut milk
• 28.8 g glucose DE60
• 28.8 g inverted sugar
• 150 g Evocao™ WholeFruit Chocolate
• 12.5 g coconut oil
• 5 g deodorized cocoa butter

1. In a saucepan, bring the hazelnut milk,

glucose and inverted sugar to a boil. Cool
down to 158˚F (70˚C).
2. Slightly melt the Evocao™ WholeFruit
Chocolate and coconut oil. Pour the
hazelnut milk mixture over the chocolate
and emulsify. Add the cocoa butter and
emulsify once more. Spread over the sablé.

Assembly
• Evocao™ WholeFruit Chocolate, tempered

1. Cut into desired shapes. Dip into Evocao™

WholeFruit Chocolate.
2. Emboss with a cold stamp.

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Places

Familiar
Bakery
Chicago, IL
www.familiarbakery.com

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 sister restaurant, Dusek’s Tavern. Our bagels are
also a big hit. They’re sourdough, fermented for
a few days, and our everything bagel has truly
everything on it, including nigella, fennel, fried
shallots, and wild-harvested dried seaweed
from my home state of Maine.

Production Tip
Our biggest cost saving was figuring out a great
way to use donut scraps. Our yeasted donut
dough has a lot of expensive ingredients and
needs to be mixed every day, but you can’t
really re-roll the dough and get beautiful donuts.
So to avoid throwing the scraps away, we roll
the scrap into a brown sugar-filled spiral that
we cut and fry. This is how we make our Larry
donuts (which we named for reasons we can
hardly remember but now we could never call
Ashley Robinson them anything else!). They’re never perfectly
uniform, but we embrace the organic look and
Founder & end up with at least 25 percent more sellable
Pastry Chef product every day.

Equipment ‘Must-Haves’
Company Mission We’re a tiny, scrappy bakery, and we pride
Familiar Bakery is your neighborhood go-to ourselves with doing a lot with a little. Our
for homestyle bagels and pastries, cookies, kitchen is mostly just mixers and ovens. That
and top-notch donuts, reminding you that said, we need our donut fryer, for obvious
something amazing can be summoned from a reasons – it is designed for speed and efficiency,
few simple ingredients. and we use it for that! Otherwise, the two
tools that are used most in our day-to-day are
scissors. We have at least four different sizes of
Signature Products scissors that we use for everything, with blades
Donuts are our specialty. We use a milk up to eight inches long. They’re especially
bread dough for the raised donuts, and all useful in portioning and shaping our yeasted
of our glazes and fillings are made with the buns. Basically, the user has more control than
best possible ingredients. Our strawberry with a knife and doesn’t need a cutting board,
and blueberry glazed, for example, are made the scissors don’t stick to the dough as much,
with fruit from our favorite farm in Michigan, and it’s just faster and cleaner than relying on
and our buttercrunch is made with Marcona knives, especially the notoriously dull things
almonds. We also make specialty pastries, that are pastry knives. Our products come out
such as a cinnamon cardamom knot made with cleaner and more even, and it saves the baker
two types of lovely cinnamon and a bunch of quite a bit of time when shaping to portion the
cardamom, and a ham and cheese swirl that’s dough this way. Once you start cutting dough
made with Tasso ham from the butcher at our with scissors, you’ll never go back.

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Secret of Success Future Goals
We’re a tiny new spot, so we’re still in the We’re a brand new spot, so we have more plans
phase where everything is rather boutique, and than we can even list! First, we are thrilled about
frankly it’s not hard to make the most beautiful announcing our new full-size bakery, inside of
pastries in the world when operating at a small the Old Post Office Building’s food hall, From
scale. But that said, for every single new menu Here On. The food hall is also owned by 16 on
item that we create, we ask the question – Center. Popping up at Revival Food Hall has
what would it be like to make 1000 or more of been amazing, but we’re ready to make our
this item? We’re hyper-focused on developing home in the beautiful, historic Old Post Office.
a menu, systems, and staff that is built for Once we move, we’re finally going to be able to
growth and success at a large scale, and our add laminated items to the menu, including my
first goal is always to make sure that as we personal favorite, our Golden Sugar Morning
expand, we will not lose quality. The process Bun, which is a croissant dough swirled with
of building out systems can feel tedious, all sorts of saffron, Ceylon cinnamon, and
especially with a small staff, but we know it to orange zest. Otherwise, our biggest priority
be crucial, especially with the level of quality is expanding our savory menu with items
we strive for every day. We also prioritize our like house-cured salmon for bagels, romesco
staff’s well-being, because bakeries don’t work breakfast buns, slab pizza, and other heartier
without bakers, and it’s both ethical and just options. At the end of the day, our goal is to be
good business practice to treat employees well a part of everyone’s daily ritual, so we want to
and create a work environment that they want make sure our menu covers sweet treats and
to stay in long-term. savory snacks alike.

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Places

Kouklet
Brazilian
Bakehouse
Philadelphia, PA
www.kouklet.com
Photos by Mike Prince

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Mardhory per day to 20 with a biscuit frame, a tool that
helps you to spread an even layer of cake batter
Santos-Cepeda on a sheet pan that is 4mm thick. This is a little
bit thicker than the traditional layers from
Owner Brazil, but there is a purpose to this. Making
it this way balances the cake flavor with the
filling tastes.

Company Mission Equipment ‘Must-Haves’

Our mission is to transport people to Brazilian The immersion blender is my number one
culture with each bite of our pastries. must-have equipment. You’re able to achieve
the smoothest ganache texture, blend out
lumps from sauces and brigadeiros, mix cake
Signature Product batter, and so much more. Another piece of
Our signature pastry is our Bolo de Rolo, equipment that I really love is my insulated
which translates to “cake roll.” This is made of proofer. It allows for consistency in your bread,
thin layers of buttery and soft cake filled with especially if you make sweet sourdough breads.
different fillings. Native to the northeastern It keeps the right temperature no matter what
Brazilian state of Pernambuco, this pastry the temperature is outside the proofer. Lastly,
is not an easy one to make, because each a dough sheeter. I don’t make a lot of laminated
cake layer is only millimeters thick, and the dough, but I use it to roll out around 40 pounds
temperature needs to be carefully controlled of tart and cookie dough per week. Imagine
to keep it moist enough for rolling. Guava is doing it all by hand?
the most traditional filling, the one you would
find in Brazil (I also import my guavas straight
from Brazil), but I like to play a little with the Secret of Success
flavors, making a variety of fillings like vegan Connect with your community, guests and
carrot and chocolate; passion fruit; orange and other business owners. I started my business
caramelized milk; and double chocolate. These right in the beginning of the pandemic and
cake rolls are perfect for breakfast, dessert, or having the help of so many other business
any time of day – all you need is a cup of coffee owners really saved me. Also, I tried not to just
or tea. make pastries for salability. Each pastry and
bread I make has a story behind it, maybe a
memory from my childhood, or influence from
Production Tip relationships I had.
Honestly, I don’t really try to speed up
production. It makes a difference to be patient
with the process of each element in each pastry, Future Goals
but I do meticulously plan my production week. There is so much going on, but right now I’m
It is the key to have a smooth work day in the focusing on building a strong team that at some
kitchen, not waste time or ingredients. We first point will be able to take over the bakehouse
plan the menu and then each day of the week so I can go on to my next adventure. I want
before we start our week. We also always look to open a savory place inspired by my father,
for tools that will save time keeping the process whom I lost during the pandemic. He was
as artisanal as possible. A great example is how my biggest supporter (perhaps tied with my
we were able to go from making 10 cake rolls husband). I owe him everything.

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Places

Tecumseh
Bread & Pastry
Tecumseh, MI
www.tecumsehbakery.com

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 Production Tip
For croissants, we do back-to-back double folds
to reduce the resting time by an hour. Also,
very unheard of, we proof all our laminated
doughs at room temperature for up to 19
hours (no proofer/retarder available here!) with
such minimal quantities of yeast to allow for a
smooth, milky taste without a hint of sour, and
also all the products are immediately ready for
the oven when we arrive.

Equipment ‘Must-Haves’
Space for special orders! We thrive off of
customers ordering goods and we can’t do
without custom shelves under counters to
organize and alphabetize all orders during the
holiday season. These shelves cut back on the
madness and keep the customer line flowing.
Also, our Jansen Grain mill. Fresh flour makes
an astounding difference in taste and texture.

Alisyn and Secret of Success

We are always there, working, helping
Arlo Brandl customers, supporting our community and
Owners never stray away from our passion: owning a
bakery! If an issue arises, we can troubleshoot
it, and also receive great feedback and
suggestions from customers by always being
Company Mission available when the shop is open.
We strive to bake the best goods we can with
the desire to support our local grain economy,
and our locals, as well! Future Goals
Two years ago (COVID!), we purchased and
began renovating a downtown historic building
Signature Products to move our operation to. This will contain our
Our croissants and sourdough breads using larger grain mill, bigger bread oven, and have
fresh milled (right here in the shop!), organic a beautiful pastry display case, custom dry
whole grains. We were the first to be doing it in goods rack, and of course more seating for all
our area, and every day it draws in a wonderful of our wonderful customers. We are excited to
group of regulars and others looking for that continue to meet the demand in a sustainable
‘European’ style baking they love. manner for our family.

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Places

Thomas Craft
Confections
Brenham, TX
www.thomascraftconfections.com

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Adam & Jennifer Thomas
Owners
Company Mission confections for many years and have seen many
recipes for toffee. But none have the crumbly
We are a family owned and operated business.
texture and breakdown like ours. There’s no
We focus on old world confections like toffee,
sticking to your teeth. The only thing we’ve
caramels and pralines, while respectfully using
changed since taking over of the business is the
new world methods and technologies. We
type of chocolate we are coating the toffee in
do have a retail space with great accessibility
and a higher quality nut. We do pecan, almond
and parking, though a large percentage of our
and coffee toffee. The coffee toffee is truly
business is online, wholesale, and corporate
exceptional.
gifting, and we see that increasing.
All of our panned items have really become
signatures as well. Our bourbon candied pecans
Signature Products coated in milk chocolate, our custom-roasted
We are known for our toffee. The family coffee beans coated in blonde chocolate are
that we bought the company from, Sam and two items we have a hard time keeping on
Cynthia Timpa, built a real legacy with their the shelves. The pecans we candy in a brown
second generation toffee recipe. During the sugar bourbon caramel in the oven at low
holidays, we ship thousands of pounds of toffee temperature. Most of our nuts are caramelized
nationwide. It’s an incredible recipe, really. on the candy burner with the copper kettles,
Every second is accounted for throughout the but as you know, pecans are just too soft of a
process. We have been making chocolate and nut and require a more delicate process.

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Production Tip personal touch on this part, which was fun.
It’s a bit art deco, if you will. Second phase we
We don’t have the space currently for heated
will get into hopefully in the coming months,
tables, so when we pour the toffee, we place which is to remodel the kitchen production
trays in the oven for a minimum of 10 minutes. space. The focus there will be to create a
This helps us spread the toffee to our desired better workflow, bring in some machines and
thickness. We don’t add any preservatives to increase efficiency. Stage three possibly next
the toffee, so of course it likes to set up as soon year will be to expand on the packaging and
as it leaves the fire. fulfillment space. In this industry, packaging and
fulfillment space is hyper critical. Our goal is to
Equipment ‘Must-Haves’ take Thomas Craft Confections and establish
ourselves as a leading brand in gourmet
We have candy burners and copper kettles
confections. Of course, the chocolates, toffee
outfitted with agitators that help us cook not
and other items must be first class and taste
only our toffee, but all of our caramels as well.
great but there should be a positive experience
I couldn’t imagine not having the agitators overall. From the product to the packaging to
with the amount of toffee we cook daily. We the time our guests walk in, or call or receive
use the same agitators switched out with a nut their product in the mail, we want to make sure
plow that we use to make our praline base and they are engaged and taken care of. We want
candied nuts for panning. Our large melanger to stand out as a brand you can trust to deliver
refines our praline and nut butters. It yields a the best confectionary experience. We do see
better finished product compared to a food Thomas Craft scaling and possibly moving into
processor. Our Betec chocolate enrobing line is multiple concepts. There are a lot of projects
a staple in our production as well. While we are and partnerships we are focusing on in the next
not so much a colorful bonbon company, we year and there is a lot of excitement that comes
do offer a wide variety of enrobed chocolates along with that. We have been approached for
and pralines. several collaborations, but right now, we want
to focus on the projects that we’ve committed
Secret of Success to, taking care of our guests and being a part of
a growing community.
Along with confections, we also offer fresh
baked goods – cookies, brownies, cupcakes,
macarons, tarts, etc. These offerings are baked
fresh daily. We also do a ‘Saturday Bake’ that
brings in a lot of excitement. It’s our version of
weekend brunch. So far, we’ve sold out even
before we open. With the use of social media
and the loyalty of our regulars, it’s been a very
fun and successful program.

Future Goals
We are in the process of remodeling the
building we are in. There are essentially three
phases to this. Phase one we just completed,
which was a full remodel of the showroom/
retail space for our guests. We put a real

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“It’s like having 100 years
of pastry experience in
the palm of your hand.”
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