OSP Journal of Clinical Trials

Review Article

Skin Care Creams: Formulation and Use

Mohiuddin AK
Department of Pharmacy, World University of Bangladesh

Corresponding Author: Mohiuddin AK, Department of Pharmacy, World University of Bangladesh, 151/8, Green Road Dhanmondi, Dhaka – 1205,
Bangladesh.

Received: May 06, 2019; Accepted: May 20, 2019; Published: June 04, 2019;

Abstract
Skin reflects origin, lifestyle, age and state of health. Skin colour, tone and evenness, pigmentation, as well as skin surface characteristics are signs of
skin’s health. The cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry offers a vast armamentarium of skin care products and procedures to clean, soothe, restore,
reinforce, protect and to treat our skin and hence to keep it in “good condition”. Skin care products are readily available in daily life and they play a major
role in health and nursing care. The promotion of skin care products including their claims are often based on an effect (e.g., moisturizing, antioxidant),
evoked by an active (e.g., urea, tocopherol) that is delivered through a vehicle (e.g., lotion) that relies on a specific technology (e.g., nanotechnology).
In addition, “without” claims (e.g., without parabens) often accompany nowadays promotions. Today, modern skin care includes cleansing, soothing,
restoring, reinforcing and protecting. With increasing age, the emphasis on skin care is changing. The importance of soothing, restoring, reinforcing
increases and cleansing should be executed with particular care. The character of skin care shifts from more cosmetic objectives e smooth, healthy
looking skin e to more therapeutic and preventive objectives e soothing, restoring, reinforcing and protecting stressed skin. Even though skin care
and skin protection play an important role throughout lifetime the skin areas in primary need of care and protection also change. In younger years,
environmental factors (e.g., UV radiation) are of primary importance whereas in advanced years, age-related factors (e.g., prolonged exposure to various
sources of moisture, including urine or feces, perspiration, wound exudate, and their contents) become more important. Subsequently the skin areas in
need of care and protection also change e initially skin areas (e.g., face, arms, legs) exposed to the external environment and later enclosed skin areas
(e.g., skin folds, perianal, peri genital skin, groin, feet) become the vulnerable zones (hot spots). Ageing per se changes the skin structure and function
across the life course increasing its susceptibility to numerous clinically relevant skin problems (e.g. xerosis cutis). Skin diseases (e.g., bacterial/fungal
infections), accumulating effects of systemic diseases (e.g., diabetes mellitus, renal insufficiency) or pharmacotherapies (e.g., cancer therapies) also
necessitate special skin care.

Key Terms: skin care; creams; emollients; moisturizers; emulsions

Abbreviations: Isopropyl Myristate (IPM); Atopic Dermatitis plays an important role during the development of a product.
(AD); Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS); Environmental Protection Pharmaceutical preparations are aimed at obtaining a curative
Agency (EPA); Triethanolamine (TEA); Cosmetic Ingredient Re- effect. In these cases, the role of the vehicle is primarily to allow
view (CIR); Linoleic Acid (LA); Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI); the delivery of the active principles to the site of application.
Sodium Dodecyl Sulphate (SDS); Polyethylene Glycols (PEGs); Sor- Cosmetic formulations do not contain strictly curative drugs,
bitan Sesquioleate (SSO); Glycolic Acid (GA); Retinaldehyde (RAL); but their purpose is rather to help skin homeostasis and prevent
Solar Simulated Radiation (SSR); Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHA); degenerative processes. As we have seen, a clear boundary between
Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA); Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS); Range the medical and cosmetic fields cannot be easily traced, while
of Motion (ROM); International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingre- the marked tendency of cosmetic industries to develop products
dients (INCI); Sun Protection Factor (SPF); Hydrophobically Modi- containing pharmaceutically active principles has led to the
fied Polymers (HMPs); Nucleotide binding domain and leucine introduction of the concept of cosmeceuticals. This term indicates
rich repeat containing proteins (NLRs); NLRC4 (NLR Family CARD cosmetic-pharmaceutical hybrids aimed at enhancing the beauty
Domain Containing 4); Absent In Melanoma 2 (AIM2); Normal Hu- of the skin by means of ingredients that modify skin functionality
man Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK); Skin Blood Flow (SkBF); or provide additional health-related function or benefit.
Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL); Natural Moisturizing Factors
(NMF) Introduction
Now, a variety of skincare products are available for almost any
Background
beauty concern one can have, including body washes, gels, lotions,
Until the beginning of the 1900s, no clear difference existed exfoliants, moisturizers, toners, and sun protection. There is mainly
between active and inactive components in dermatological and a focus on helping skin from the inside out. The existence of the
cosmetic preparations. Later, it became possible to assign specific FDA keeps known toxic ingredients from being used, though many
therapeutic effects to certain chemical substances, and the concept skincare products still do unfortunately have side effects. From
of vehicle, i.e., a rather inactive carrier substance, started to be time immemorial creams as, topical preparations are considered
developed. Nowadays, formulations are mixtures of components an important part of cosmetic products. Creams may be considered
that basically include one or more vehicles and one or more active pharmaceutical products as even cosmetic creams are based on
principles. The efficacy of dermatological and cosmetic products is techniques developed by pharmacy and un-medicated creams are
influenced by the type of vehicle and active principles. In general, highly used in a variety of skin conditions in ancient times, creams
formulations will work if the active ingredients penetrate into were simply prepared by mixing of two or more ingredients using
the epidermis. Hence, the correct selection of a suitable vehicle water as the solvent. With the advancement in technology, newer

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methods are used for formulation of creams. These semisolid occlusion of the skin should be avoided. However, the epidermal
preparations are elegant to use by the public and society. They acidification is known to be fragile and it is commonly accepted
show versatility in their functions. Creams can be applied to any that cosmetic products, especially soaps and skin cleansing
part of the body with ease. It is convenient to use cream by all the products, can induce significant changes in skin surface pH. The
age group of people. Although it may be equally well applied to skin pH recovery needs time up to several hours before it can
non-aqueous products such as wax-solvent based mascaras, liquid reach the physiological level. Skin care delivered to improve, e.g.,
eye shadows and ointments. If an emulsion is sufficiently low the outcome of an eczema therapy or to reduce, e.g., the adverse
viscosity to be pourable (flow under influence of gravity alone) effects of a cancer therapy are often termed as adjuvant skin care.
is referred to as lotion. Creams are emulsions of oil and water. In Nonetheless, adjuvant or the above described classic preventive
coming future, more advanced technologies and methods will be skin care pursues the similar goals. Moisturizing prevents
used for preparation, formulation and evaluation of creams. Also, and alleviates skin irritation, soothing the skin by slowing the
the demand of herbal constituents-based creams is increasing day evaporation of water. Many liquid face cleansers also moisturize,
by day. which may be all that is needed for a patient with oily skin.
Protection from sun and environmental damage is important for
Skin care procedures and skin care products all patients. While sunscreens are often irritants, the best options
The information on skin care procedures is plentiful but little for young, oily, acne-prone skin tend to have a water or light liquid
scientifically documented and the number of products available base. Moisturizing sunscreens are appropriate for patients with
for cleansing, soothing, restoring, reinforcing and protecting is of dry, sun-damaged skin, as well as those who wear makeup, have
an almost infinite variety. Nonetheless their functionalities may be other skin diseases, or are easily irritated by products [3-6].
described as
Types of Skin Creams
1. Removal of dirt, sebum, microorganisms, exfoliated
corneocytes and other non-wanted substances from the skin They are divided into two types: oil-in-water (O/W) creams
which are composed of small droplets of oil dispersed in a
2. Reduction of unpleasant skin symptoms (e.g., pruritus, continuous phase, and water-in-oil (W/O) creams which are
burning, odour) composed of small droplets of water dispersed in a continuous
oily phase. Whether the aqueous or the oil phase becomes the
3. Restoration of (sub-clinically) damaged skin (e.g., dry and
dispersed phase depends primarily on the emulsifying agent
inflamed skin)
used and the relative amounts of the two liquid phases. Hence, an
4. Reinforcement of undamaged but vulnerable skin (e.g., skin emulsion in which the oil is dispersed as droplets throughout the
surface pH balance, germ reduction) aqueous phase is termed an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion. When
water is the dispersed phase and an oil the dispersion medium, the
5. Protection of damaged, undamaged and vulnerable skin from
emulsion is of the water-in-oil (W/O) type. Oil-in-water creams
various noxious factors.
are more comfortable and cosmetically acceptable as they are
6. Providing a pleasant skin feel (well-being) [1]. less greasy and more easily washed off using water. Water-in-oil
creams are more difficult to handle but many drugs which are
Maintaining the Functional Integrity of the Stratum incorporated into creams are hydrophobic and will be released
Corneum more readily from a water-in-oil cream than an oil-in-water cream.
It has been recognized for approximately 7 decades that the Water-in-oil creams are also more moisturizing as they provide an
stratum corneum exhibits biological properties that contribute oily barrier which reduces water loss from the stratum corneum,
directly to maintaining and sustaining healthy skin. Continued basic the outermost layer of the skin. It is important for pharmacists to
science and clinical research coupled with keen clinical observation know the type of emulsion they have prepared or are dealing with,
has led to more recent recognition and general acceptance that because this can affect its properties and performance (Table 1).
the stratum corneum completes many vital “barrier” tasks, Unfortunately, the several methods available can give incorrect
including but not limited to regulating epidermal water content results, so the type of emulsion determined by one method should
and the magnitude of water loss; mitigating exogenous oxidants always be confirmed by means of a second method [7,8].
that can damage components of skin via an innate antioxidant
Cleansing Creams
system; preventing or limiting cutaneous infection via multiple
antimicrobial peptides; responding via innate immune mechanisms In earliest times, cleansing was done by using a piece of bone or
to “cutaneous invaders” of many origins, including microbes, true stone to scrape the skin. Later civilizations used materials of plant
allergens, and other antigens; and protecting its neighbouring origin along with water for cleansing. Many different civilizations
cutaneous cells and structures that lie beneath from damaging can be given credit for discovering soap. The earliest mention of the
effects of ultraviolet radiation. Additionally, specific abnormalities soap making process can be found in Sumerian clay tablets dating
of the stratum corneum (Figure 2) are associated with the clinical to ca. 2000 BC. By 600 BC, tree ash and animal fat had been used
expression of certain disease states [2]. by the Phoenicians to prepare soap. The first cosmetic cleansing
cream to be manufactured on an industrial scale was cold cream,
The functionality of the skin care products ranges from mono-
an emulsion made with mineral or almond oil along with beeswax,
functional, e.g., protecting barrier creams to poly-functional, e.g.,
borax and water. A second type of cleanser was introduced around
soothing and restoring cleansers. They unfold their functionality
1920. It was made solely from oils and waxes, so was water-free
as leave-on products (e.g., moisturizing or skin barrier products),
(anhydrous) and was not an emulsion. Cleansers of this type
or as rinse-off products (e.g., cleansers). Skin care procedures
were designed to melt or liquefy when applied to the skin-they
like washing/drying and the application of leave-on products-
were thixotropic-which is why they were referred to as liquefying
should be as benign as possible. The unduly removal of natural
cleansing creams. Skin permeability was found to depend very
skin component (e.g., lipids), prolonged exposure to water (e.g.,
strongly on temperature and less strongly on the duration of
long-term immersion in full-baths), a (repeated) disruption of the
heating. The pores of the skin are like little thermostats; they expand
physiological skin surface pH, and excessive and/or prolonged
with heat and contract with cold. Now when a cream containing a
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Table 1. Characteristics of Skin Creams [9]

Functional Physicochemical Subjective
Cleansing Creams Medium to High oil content Oily
Cold Creams O/W or W/O Difficult to ‘Rub in’
Massage Creams Low Slip Point oil phase May be stiff and rich
Night Creams Neutral pH Also popular as lotions
May contain surfactant that improve penetration
Moisturizing Creams Low oil content Easily spreadable and ‘Rub in’ quality
Foundation Creams Usually O/W Available as creams and lotions
Vanishing Creams Low slip-point oil phase
Neutral to slightly acidic pH
May contain emollients & special moisturizing
ingredients
Functional Physicochemical Subjective
Easily spreadable but do not ‘Rub in’ with the ease
Low to medium oil content
of vanishing creams
Usually O/W
Hand & Body Protective Medium slip point oil phase Very popular in lotion form
Slightly alkaline or acidic pH
May containing protective factors, especially
silicon and lanolin
Medium oil content
All Purpose Creams Very often slightly oily but should be easy to spread
O/W or W/O

high percentage of water is applied to the skin it is obvious that approximately 1 g per person. Possible routes of contamination
the pores will at once contract and prevent the deep penetration include air inhalation, food intake, and dermal absorption. The
which is essential if the skin is to be thoroughly cleansed. Some present study aims to identify the most relevant sources of mineral
chemists who favour cold cream type cleansers argue that such a oil contamination [20]. Petrolatum is thought to be occlusive,
reaction is momentary and that with continued rubbing the skin thereby blocking transcutaneous water loss and trapping water
warms up and the pores open again. But they overlook the simple under the skin's surface [21]. Petrolatum is a common moisturizer
fact that water begins to evaporate immediately upon exposure (Discussed in detail in often used in the prevention of skin
and in evaporating it abstracts heat from the skin, which causes infections after ambulatory surgeries and as a maintenance therapy
the pores to contract again. Many of the environmental impurities of Atopic Dermatitis (AD) [22]. Common ingredients in emollients
and cosmetic products are not water soluble and so washing the include petroleum products, glycerine, fatty acids and plant oils.
skin with simple water would not be sufficient to remove them. An ideal emollient should contain a combination of occlusive
Substances capable of emulsifying them into finer particles are to be agents to slow down water loss, humectants to increase capacity
used for making these fat-soluble impurities water soluble. Herein, to withhold moisture and lubricants to reduce friction against skin
cleansers fit into the picture. Skin cleansers are surface-active [25]. The exotic fats used in skin care are known to exhibit their
substances (i.e. emulsifiers/detergents/surfactants/soaps) that effects through restoration of a sufficient layer of skin lipids and
lower the surface tension on the skin and remove dirt, sebum, oil skin elasticity, boost natural skin regeneration and increased skin
from cosmetic products, microorganisms, and exfoliated corneum hydration by forming an inert, epicutaneous occlusive membrane.
cells in an emulsified form. Careful face washing helps to improve Besides these facts, mango butter which is one of several exotic fats
and prevent acne; however, intensive washing has a risk of inducing is viewed as an ingenious replacement for cocoa butter, mineral and
skin barrier impairment and dry skin, especially in sensitive petroleum-based emollients because of its appreciable contents
skin. An ideal cleanser should do all these without damaging or which are very important as source of skin active ingredients [26].
irritating the skin, on the contrary it should try to keep the skin Isopropyl myristate is a non-greasy emollient that is absorbed
surface moist. With the advent of advanced technologies, newer readily by the skin. It is used as a component of semisolid bases and
cleansers are now being manufactured which are mild, provide as a solvent for many substances applied topically [18]. IPM, the
moisturizing benefits and can be easily washed off. The combined isopropyl ester of myristic acid, is used in cosmetics as a substitute
use of a facial skin cleanser and moisturizers is safe and effective for natural oils because it has excellent spreading properties and
for the care of acne in post-adolescent women with sensitive skin. is absorbed easily into the skin. In many topical and transdermal
The key ingredients in cleansing creams, which are also known as preparations, IPM is also used as a co-solvent with skin penetration
cold creams, are usually petrolatum, mineral oil, waxes and water enhancement properties of active ingredients [27]. Polysorbate20
(Table 2). Many cleansing creams also contain emulsifiers, which is a non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier derived from sorbitan
prevent the ingredients of the cream from separating into layers. It monolaurate, and is distinguished from the other members in the
can moisturize skin and remove dirt, sweat, make-up at the same polysorbate range by the length of the polyoxyethylene chain and
time. The layers of make-up, dust and sweat remain as a layer on the fatty acid ester moiety. Due to non-toxic nature, it is used as a
the face and prevent the skin from breathing this may eventually wetting agent in flavoured mouth drops such as Ice Drops, helping
lead to wrinkles and dullness. With their mild and effective action, to provide a spreading feeling to other ingredients like SD alcohol
cleansing creams now days have become a beneficial approach to and mint flavour [29,30]. Glycerine is widely used in cosmetics
healthy skin care [10-16]. and well as in pharmaceutical formulations, mainly as humectant.
In vitro studies have shown glycerine to prevent crystallization
There is strong evidence that mineral oil hydrocarbons are
of stratum corneum model lipid mixture at low room humidity
the greatest contaminant of the human body, amounting to
(Figure 3). Ten days treatment of normal skin with 20% glycerine
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Beauty Secrets

Figure 1. Structure of human skin. The outer layer of the epidermis, the external layer of human skin, is made up primarily of corneocytes which provide
a barrier function. Underlying the corneocytes are viable keratinocytes, which migrate outward and terminally differentiate to become corneocytes. The
epidermis is organized into extensions called rete ridges that project between dermal papille (pink) into the underlying connective tissue. Underlying the
epidermis is the dermis, which is primarily made up of collagen, elastin fibers, and other extracellular matrix components. Collagen and elastin fibers are
synthesized by fibroblasts to provide tensile strength, firmness, and elasticity to the skin. The innermost layer of the skin, the hypodermis, is composed
largely of fat cells, which helps provide structure to the skin. Blood capillaries, lymph vessels, sweat glands, sebaceous glands, hair follicles, and lamellar
bodies lie within the dermis and hypodermis.

Figure 2. This figure depicts the “bricks and mortar” structure of the stratum corneum [2]. The corneocytes represent the bricks and the intercellular
lamellar lipid membrane represents the mortar. Corneocytes comprise primarily keratin macrofibrils, are protected externally by a cornified cell envelope,
and are held together by corneodesmosomes. The intercellular lamellar lipid membrane is primarily composed of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. A
mixture of multiple small hygroscopic compounds presents within corneocytes, referred to collectively as Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), plays a vital
role in the physiological maintenance of stratum corneum hydration.

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significantly increased skin corneometer values, indicating an these HMP/surfactant systems, because less surfactant enters the
increased hydration [31]. SC, there is less inflammation, and therefore the skin barrier is less
disturbed [146].
The intended application of detergents and cleaners should not
result in direct contact with product ingredients; however, misuse Cold Cream
of the product could potentially cause dermal (skin and ocular)
or inhalation exposure. Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) enters and The invention of cold cream is credited to Galen, a physician in
maintains residual levels in the heart, the liver, the lungs and the the second century from Greece. This cold cream is thick and softens
brain from skin contact. SLS is cited as causing severe eye damage when it touches the skin. It is perfect for dry skin on elbow, feet,
and blindness. A second erroneous ocular health claim made about and knees and also perfect for natural ways of removing makeup
SLS is its link to cataract formation [32], [34]. For cleaning and and to avoid eczema in dry parts of your body. The combination
industrial uses, it is monitored by the Environmental Protection of fats and water in this product help moisturize-the cream gets
Agency (EPA). Sodium cocosulfate, made from coconut oil, can its name because it's cold to the touch – with people using it to
be used as a replacement for SLS in your beauty product recipes soften their skin, soothe sunburns, and protect faces from wintry
[35]. Recent studies suggest that coconut oil can be a useful weather, too. The emulsion is of a "water in oil" type unlike the
surfactant when combined with Yucca schidigera extract [36]. The "oil in water" type emulsion of vanishing cream, so-called because
polysorbates are amphipathic, non-ionic surfactants composed of it seems to disappear when applied on skin. Lubricating creams,
fatty acid esters of polyoxyethylene sorbitan being polyoxyethylene night creams, or massage creams are a type of cold cream with the
sorbitan monolaurate for polysorbate 20 and polyoxyethylene addition of lanolin (wool fat) and its derivatives. The name "cold
sorbitan monooleate for polysorbate 80. The polysorbates used cream" derives from the cooling feeling that the cream leaves on
in the formulation of biopharmaceuticals are mixtures of different the skin. Cold creams were usually made as water-in-oil (W/O)
fatty acid esters with the monolaurate fraction of polysorbate emulsions. After the creams are applied to the skin much of the
20 making up only 40-60% of the mixture and the monooleate water evaporates leaving the remaining oil to act as a solvent which
fraction of polysorbate 80 making up >58% of the mixture [37]. cleanses the skin of cosmetics and other grime. There may also
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel assessed the be some surfactant activity. Some chemists suggested that as the
safety of 39 polyether lanolin ingredients as used in cosmetics. water evaporated it cooled the skin which is why the creams are
The Panel concluded that these polyether lanolin ingredients are called ‘cold cream’. An alternative explanation is that in the days
safe in the practices of use and concentration as given in this safety before mineral oil or petrolatum were used, the creams needed
assessment [38]. Nasrollahi [Link] 2018 revealed that Linoleic acid to be stored in a cool place to stop them going rancid. This made
(LA) containing w/o emulsion exhibited erythema-reducing effects them cold to the touch and so gave them their name. The first cold
[39]. Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI) is an important surfactant cream has been attributed to the Roman physician Galen (C.E. 150)
ingredient in mild, syndet (synthetic detergent) cleansing bars. In who reputedly made a primitive emulsion by mixing water with
vitro and in vivo studies have demonstrated that SCI is mild and molten beeswax and olive oil. It was laborious to make-requiring a
less damaging to the skin barrier than soaps and surfactants such great deal of mixing-and tended to separate on standing. However,
as Sodium Dodecyl Sulphate (SDS) [40]. The Cosmetic Ingredient the formulation persisted-generally using rose-water and/or oil
Review Expert Panel assessed the safety of Triethanolamine (TEA) of roses as a perfume-and was included in the first edition of the
and 31 related TEA-containing ingredients as used in cosmetics. ‘Pharmacopœa Londinensis’ in 1618. Vegetable oils like almond
The TEA is reported to function as a surfactant or pH adjuster; oil are liable to deteriorate when they are mixed with water, so
the related TEA-containing ingredients included in this safety early forms were not long-lasting. Their short shelf life meant
assessment are reported to function as surfactants and hair- or that cold creams were usually made up at home or purchased in
skin-conditioning agents. The exception is TEA-sorbate, which is small quantities, freshly made up by a local pharmacist, chemist
reported to function as a preservative. The panel concluded that or druggist. Borax-beeswax cold creams were white, opaque, had a
TEA and related TEA-containing ingredients named in this report high luster and spread easily on the skin, but the use of almond oil
are safe as used when formulated to be non-irritating. These still limited the shelf life of the cream. When borax-beeswax cold
ingredients should not be used in cosmetic products in which creams were made with petrolatum and mineral oil rather than
N-nitroso compounds can be formed [41]. A cleansing cream or almond oil, cold creams were produced that were stable, cheap
lotion is spread onto the skin, using the fingertips, and massaged to produce and had a long shelf life. This made borax-beeswax
onto the surface. This action serves to loosen and suspend the cold creams ideal preparations for industrial manufacture and
grime and soil in the emulsion. A subsequent wipe with a tissue distribution. Cold creams that contained a high percentage of
or cotton wool pad removes the majority of the applied cleansing mineral oil (liquid paraffin) or petrolatum were regarded primarily
emulsion, and with it the skin soil, grime or makeup. The cream as cleansers, to be spread on thickly, then removed with a cloth or
should have a medium-to-high percentage oil phase and be easily tissues. However, depending on the formulation, they could be
spreadable, should not “rub in” and should not irritate the skin. used for a variety of purposes and were often advertised as beauty
In addition, if it can leave a residual emollient film on the skin, so creams or night creams. City air in most large western cities was a
much the better [99]. Surfactants in skin cleansers interact with good deal grimier than it is today. Dust, soot and other particulate
the skin in several manners. In addition to the desired benefit of matter collected on the face, making it an enduring problem. Early
providing skin hygiene, surfactants also extract skin components advertisements for cold cream stressed the need to “cleanse your
during cleansing and remain in the SC after rinsing (Figure 4). skin of all the dirt which lodges in the pores through the day,
These side effects disrupt SC structure and degrade its barrier and which, more than anything else, injures the skin”. It was also
properties. Hydrophobically Modified Polymers (HMPs) have suggested that the cream be used at night to give it additional
been introduced to create skin compatible cleansing systems. At time to act. Cold creams were widely used in the theatrical trades
the presence of HMP, surfactants assemble into larger, more stable to remove greasepaint with a number of suppliers producing
structures. These structures are less likely to penetrate the skin, products labelled as Theatrical Cold Cream. As the use of street
thereby resulting in less aggressive cleansers and the integrity of make-up increased, cold creams were also promoted as a way to
the skin barrier is maintained. By creating these large polymer/ remove face powder, lipstick, rouge, foundation and other forms
surfactant complexes, the cleanser becomes less aggressive. In of personal make-up. Cold creams formed the basis of early beauty

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 OSP J Clin Trials Copyright © Mohiuddin AK

Figure 3. The mechanism of action of glycerol [32], [81]. A humectant attracts and retains the moisture in the air nearby via absorption, drawing the water
vapor into or beneath the organism's or object's surface. Much more is now known about the epidermis, and in particular, the stratum corneum. The “bricks
and mortar” model suggests that its role is as an active membrane. Loss of intercellular lipids, i.e., the ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids that form the
bilayers, damages the water-barrier function. The stratum corneum then calls into action repair mechanisms. Scientifically, the moisturizing treatment
involves a 4-step process: (a) Repairing the skin barrier (b) Increasing water content (c) Reducing TEWL (d) Restoring the lipid barriers’ ability to attract,
hold and redistribute water.

Figure 4. Audrey Hepburn [141-143]. The legendary Roman Holiday actress once famously said, “I owe 50% of my beauty to my mother and the other
50% to Erno Laszlo." Erno Laszlo, a pioneer in 20th Century skin care, believed beautiful skin was no miracle. He analyzed women's (and men's) skin
giving them precise techniques for their personal cleansing and prescribed the exact products for their particular skin type and concern. The backbone of
any cosmeceutical skin care regimen is facial cleansing and moisturizing. Moisturizers create the illusion of smooth, soft skin by placing a temporary film
over the skin surface or by imparting a transient hydration benefit that does not clinically improve the quality or appearance of skin. Cleansing, aggressive
exfoliation, and sebum reduction in the absence of a traditional moisturizer safely and effectively improved multiple clinical endpoints of photoaged skin.

regimes developed by Pond’s, Elizabeth Arden, Helena Rubinstein all-purpose skin cream decline. This fracturing of the commercial
and others (Figure 5). By establishing a daily regime, cosmetic skin-care market which began with the introduction of stearate
companies hoped they would increase the usage of their creams (vanishing) creams in 1892, picked up pace in the 1920s and
and widen consumer consumption to entire product lines. Guidance 1930s and eroded the prestige of cold creams and pushed them
from beauty authorities saw many women adopt the practice of increasingly into the low-end of the skin-care market. Although the
applying cold cream before sleep to remove the dirt, grime and use of cold creams has declined, they are still available. However,
cosmetics of the day. It cleansed the skin and, if not removed with when more recent products are compared to original formulations
soap and water, left a thin film with moisturizing properties. If it marked differences are evident, primarily in the replacement of
was doing something else while you slept, so much the better. One borax with modern surfactants [42-50].
wonders, for example, how many women discovered that leaving
Cold cream is an emulsion of water and certain fats, usually
it liberally on their face when they retired, helped them avoid the
including beeswax and various scent agents, designed to
‘ministrations’ of their husbands, enabling them to get a night of
smooth skin and remove makeup. Beeswax itself suffers from 2
uninterrupted sleep. The all-purpose nature of cold cream, which
disadvantages as an ingredient in skin creams. The first of this is
had been its strength, proved to be its weakness. The recognition of
that it has a distinctive smell which usually has to be masked in
different skin types and skin conditions along with the proliferation
the final product; the odour is not unpleasant but not found that
of skin creams containing ‘beneficial additives’ saw the need for an
compatible with the products of modern days’ sophisticated image.

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 OSP J Clin Trials Copyright © Mohiuddin AK

And the quality and price also vary with season. The original cold Sodium Behenoyl Lactylate can be used as an emulsifying
cream recipe or the basic cold cream formula contains Borax. agent, humectant and conditioner in skin and hair care. Sodium
Borax was added to the basic combination of ingredients at the end Behenoyl Lactylate is vegetable derived and can be used in creams,
of the nineteenth century. It reacts with fatty acids in the beeswax lotions, facial cleansers, and bath products such as bath butters
to form an emulsion and makes the cream stable. Borax plays many and scrubs [59,60]. White beeswax is a chemically bleached form
different roles in cold creams in that; it promotes emulsification of yellow wax and is used in similar applications: for example, to
and reduces surface tension of water. Borax is used in various increase the consistency of creams and ointments, and to stabilize
household laundry and cleaning products but to its highly alkaline water-in-oil emulsions. White wax is used to polish sugar-coated
nature, it might cause skin irritation (Figure 6). There are also tablets and to adjust the melting point of suppositories. Beeswax
reports of adverse reproductive and developmental impact on the has been used since ancient times for its antimicrobial properties
fetus. Its use in the long term is not recommended as there is a in European and Asian traditional medicines. Preservative effects
possibility of causing renal dysfunction as the borax accumulates are possibly at the basis of its use in embalming and mummification
in the body. It can also cause fatigue or vomiting due to toxicity. practices by old Egyptians and Persian, or to model death masks by
Some research suggests it could also cause genetic damage and ancient Romans. A total of about 50 aroma components has also
be toxic to lymphocytes, the building block of the body’s immune been reported. The ester/acid ratio is important for beeswax
system [51-56]. characterization by different Pharmacopeias, being generally

Figure 5. 1961 POND'S SKIN CREAM vintage magazine advertisement "Special Formula Care" [140] … Put your skin on Pond's Special Formula Care ... and
look lovelier overnight ... Pond's Cold Cream ... Pond's Dry Skin Cream ... Pond's Moisture Base ….

Figure 6. A borax-free cold cream [57,58]. Since borax is a naturally occurring mineral and is so useful in producing skincare and cleaning products, it is
somewhat puzzling why there is so much fuss about its use. It’s important to remember that “natural” doesn’t always equal safe, nor does it guarantee we
are protected from adverse effects.

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 OSP J Clin Trials Copyright © Mohiuddin AK

lower (3-4) in European, and higher (8-9) in Asian beeswax [61,62]. powders, skin cleansing products, makeup bases and foundations,
Ceresin is often used as a substitute for ozokerite wax due to its mascara, eye shadow, eyeliner, hair conditioners and rinses, and
similar properties, and also as a substitute for beeswax and paraffin suntan and sunscreen products [18], [74,75]. Cetyl Alcohol is a
wax. It acts as a rheological modifier at low concentrations (2-3%) synthetic, solid, fatty alcohol and non-ionic surfactant. Cetyl alcohol
and has the ability to create very small crystallites, which crosslink is used as an emulsifying agent in pharmaceutical preparations.
and establish a network structure that does not allow flow in Often confused with the bad alcohols, such as denatured alcohol,
practical conditions. Ceresin produces stable mixtures with oils the fatty alcohols include, among others, cetyl alcohol and stearyl
and prevents bleeding or sweating of oil, and it produces a lighter alcohol. Typically, fatty alcohols are used as emollients and
cream that is less greasy [18], [63]. Carbopol® 934 polymer is a thickeners in skin-care products. Fatty alcohols are not irritating
white powder, cross-linked polyacrylic acid polymer. It exhibits and, in fact, can be beneficial for dry skin [76-80]. Dimethicone is
short flow properties and a creamy sensory profile, and is therefore an antifoaming agent; emollient; water-repelling agent.
well suited for use as a rheology modifier in lotions and creams Dimethicones of various viscosities are widely used in cosmetic
[64]. Butylene glycol is an antimicrobial preservative; humectant; and pharmaceutical formulations. In topical oil-in-water emulsions
solvent; water-miscible cosolvent. It is used in topical ointments, dimethicone is added to the oil phase as an antifoaming agent. It is
creams, and lotions, and it is also used as a vehicle in transdermal hydrophobic and is also widely used in topical barrier preparations.
patches. Cottage cheese whey was unsatisfactory, but B. polymyxa Also called polydimethylsiloxane, is a type of silicone oil with
produced large amounts of the glycol in sweet whey, about 60 distinctive properties that make it a useful ingredient in many skin
mmol of glycol per 100 mmol of lactose utilized [18], [65]. It is care products. The combination of silicone with methyl groups
widely used in cosmetics, including low-irritant skin care products tends to make it extremely resistant to water yet it keeps them
and topical medicaments, as an excellent and low-irritation flexible and moving free, ideal properties for a lubricant.
humectant [66]. Polyethylene Glycols (PEGs) are products of Dimethicone is viscoelastic meaning that, at high temperature, acts
condensed ethylene oxide and water that can have various like a viscous liquid and, at low temperature, acts like elastic solid,
derivatives and functions. PEG-100 STEARATE (a polyethylene similar to rubber. According to USFDA, dimethicone at
glycol ester of stearic acid, commercially available as Hall Star® concentrations between 1 and 30% is considered as a safe skin
PEG 4400 MS; Jeemate 4400 DPS; Sabowax SE 100) is a non-ionic protectant. Besides being water and UV resistant, dimethicone is
emulsifier (o/w) from petrochemical and vegetal sources. PEG-100 not greasy and is not expensive [82]. Glydant Plus™ is a unique and
stearate is an off-white, solid ester of polyethylene glycol (a binder cost-effective preservative featuring a high level of antimicrobial
and a softener) and stearic acid. The surfactant qualities of glyceryl activity in a wide variety of cosmetic and personal care formulations.
stearate and PEG-100 stearate allow oil and water to mix. Used in Glydant Plus is also highly effective in inhibiting the growth of gram
after sun skin care, antiperspirants, beach wear sun care, cleansing positive and gram-negative bacteria, yeasts and molds without the
wipes. When it comes to evaluating skin care chemicals to find the need of additional auxiliary preservatives. This water-soluble
best ingredients for skin care, PEG 100 Stearate can be one of those preservative has a low odour and is stable for extended periods of
cases where it’s difficult to make a clear-cut assessment. On the time over wide pH and temperature ranges [83]. Alpha-Hydroxy
one hand, this ingredient has many positive properties, such as the Acids (AHA) such as glycolic acid has been used extensively in
ability to moisturize and cleanse the skin. However, some studies cosmetic and dermatological formulas. In low concentration (2-
point to a potential link between PEG 100 Stearate and development 5%) glycolic acid is believed to facilitate progressive weakening of
of toxicity within the body. Some skin care experts even suggest cohesion of the intercellular material of the Stratum Corneum (SC),
that this ingredient has been linked to problems with reproductive resulting in uniform exfoliation of its outermost layers (the stratum
health and even cancer. When looking at PEG 100 Stearate as an disjunctum) [84]. Exposure to UVB radiation induces inflammation
emollient, there are other ingredients, like shea and cocoa butter and free radical-mediated oxidative stress through Reactive
that can also do the job very well. Glycerine is another well-known Oxygen Species (ROS) that play a crucial role in the induction of
emollient that can increase skin hydration and softness. When it skin cancer. Clinically chronic photoaging may result in fine
comes to emulsification properties of PEG 100 Stearate, alternative wrinkles, texture abnormalities, pigment dyschromia’s, and actinic
chemicals that are sometimes used include ceteareth 20, glycol keratoses [151]. Glycolic Acid (GA) chemical peels are a popular
stearate, or laureth 3 [67-70]. Sorbitol-based emulsifiers such as treatment for photoaged skin rejuvenation although Retinaldehyde
Sorbitan Sesquioleate (SSO) is used in a variety of products (RAL)-based cosmetic creams are potentially better tolerated than
including skin care products, skin cleansing products, moisturizers, chemical peels [85]. Short-term topical application of glycolic acid
eye makeup and other makeup, primarily as an emollient. It is in a cosmetic formulation increased the sensitivity of human skin
added to formulas as a skin soother and moisturizer and is derived to Solar Simulated Radiation (SSR), while a comparable treatment
from sorbitol, a humectant. They are commonly used in topical with salicylic acid did not [86]. Glycolic acid also stimulates the
corticosteroids, topical antibiotics, topical antifungals, moisturizing growth of new skin. Although the exact mechanism of action of
creams and lotions, and topical retinoids. Contact dermatitis from glycolic acid is still unknown, alpha-hydroxy acids decrease
sorbitol derivatives appears to be increasingly prevalent. Patch- corneocyte cohesion and it has been suggested that this occurs by
testing with SSO can be useful in the work-up of patients with interference with the formation of ionic bonds. They dissolve
presumptive cosmetic allergic contact dermatitis. Those sensitized adhesions between cells in the upper layers of the skin, inducing
to SSO can be counselled to avoid sorbitol-containing products, shedding of dry scales from the skin’s surface, commonly referred
especially topical corticosteroids [71-73]. Glyceryl Stearate acts as to as exfoliation [87]. AHAs have been used as superficial peeling
emollient; emulsifying agent; solubilizing agent; stabilizing agent; agents as well as to ameliorate the appearance of keratoses and
sustained-release agent; tablet and capsule lubricant. As a lubricant acne in dermatology. However, caution should be exercised in
on the skin's surface, it gives the skin a soft and smooth appearance. relation to certain adverse reactions among patients using products
It also slows the loss of water from the skin by forming a barrier on with AHAs, including swelling, burning, and pruritus [88]. GA
the skin's surface. Glyceryl Stearate, and Glyceryl Stearate SE help suppressed the mRNA expression levels of NLRC4 and AIM2 among
to form emulsions by reducing the surface tension of the substances the inflammasome complexes. GA also blocked interleukin (IL)-1β
to be emulsified. In cosmetics and personal care products, Glyceryl by reducing the activity of caspase-1 in the NHEKs. Treatment with
Stearate is widely used and can be found in lotions, creams, GA (2%) inhibited UVB-induced inflammation marker NLRC4

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 OSP J Clin Trials Copyright © Mohiuddin AK

protein levels in mouse dorsal skin. The photoprotective activity of Night Creams
GA was ascribed to the inhibition of ROS formation and DNA
Night and massage creams are designed to be left on the skin for
damage, as well as a reduction in the activities of inflammasome
several hours or to remain mobile on the skin even after vigorous
complexes and IL-1β. GA has anti-inflammatory and photoprotective
rubbing [98]. Therefore, they are composed with a substantial
effects against UVB irradiation (Figure 7). GA is potentially
oil phase which will spread easily without disappearing but also
beneficial to the protection of human skin from UV damage [89].
without rubbing off on to clothing or bed linen in use (Table 3).
A natural tocopherol and one of the most potent antioxidant Such creams tend to be high-oil-content, water-in-oil, soft solid
tocopherols. It exhibits antioxidant activity by virtue of the phenolic or viscous liquid creams. A moisturizing effect is resulted due to
hydrogen on the 2H-1-benzopyran-6-ol nucleus [90]. Stability of the formation of the occlusive layer on the skin surface thereby
vitamin E depends on its form, dl-α-Toc acetate being the most reducing the rate of trans-epidermal water loss. Hence, the skin
stable. It protects the skin from various deleterious effects due to surface feels smooth by lubricating action and allowing any
solar radiation by acting as a free-radical scavenger. Experimental “saw tooth” cells in the outer layer of the stratum corneum to be
studies suggest that vitamin E has antitumorigenic and smoothed down. The occlusive layer prevents epidermal moisture
photoprotective properties [91]. Although many cosmeceuticals loss and also gives lubrication. Massage has a valuable part to play
contain vitamins C and E, very few are actually effective in topical in skin care since it is well known that vigorous rubbing of the skin
application because the stability is compromised as soon as the prevents dead surface cells and keeps epidermal blood supply in
product is opened and exposed to air and light. However, when a good condition. The term “moisturizing” has also been applied to
stable formulation delivers a high concentration of non-esterified, water-in-oil creams of this type. The recent research has broadened
optimal isomer of the antioxidant, vitamins C and E inhibit the the concept of moisturizing from the simple occlusive skin barrier
acute UV damage as well as chronic UV photoaging and skin cancer principle. Many night moisturizing creams are comparatively
[92]. The solubility of ascorbyl palmitate in alcohol permits it to light and easy to rub in compared with those of the overnight
be used in nonaqueous and aqueous systems and emulsions. and massage types, although there still remains a market for the
It is an antimutagenic agent; antioxidant [93]. Ascorbic acid- heavier moisturizing creams [99]. Recently, day and night creams
6-palmitate reduced cellular levels of reactive oxygen species containing Melatonin, vehiculated in lipospheres (Melatosphere™),
following ultraviolet B irradiation. Ascorbic acid-6-palmitate have been developed (Nutriage day cream and Nutriage night
strongly promoted ultraviolet-B-induced lipid peroxidation, c-Jun cream (Exhibit 1); Cantabria Labs, Difa Cooper, Caronno Pertusella,
N-terminal kinase activation, and cytotoxicity, however. Despite VA, Italy). Melatonin is considered as a strong antioxidant molecule,
its antioxidant properties, ascorbic acid-6-palmitate may intensify and it is one of the most potent ·OH radical scavenger in nature. The
skin damage following physiologic doses of ultraviolet radiation liposphere carrier system could further improve the penetration
[94]. Vitamin C also improves the elasticity of the skin and reduces of the Mel molecules through the skin layers. In women with skin
wrinkles by stimulating collagen synthesis. Since it suppresses aging, Melatonin-based creams improved significantly skin tonicity
pigmentation and decomposes melanin, it is used as a skin-whitening and skin hydration with a significant reduction in skin roughness,
agent. However, applied ascorbic acid is extremely reactive and supporting the skin antiaging effect of this molecule applied
therefore unstable in dispersions due to the fast oxidation and topically [100].
further irreversible chemical transformation. Therefore, the use
Deionized (DI) water is water that has been treated to remove
of less reactive derivatives like ascorbyl phosphate salts (pro-
all ions-typically, that means all of the dissolved mineral salts
antioxidant) or lipophilic ascorbyl esters is an attempt to prolong
[111]. Glycerine is used as humectant/emollient. Dermo soft®
their stability [95]. Ascorbyl palmitate widely used in cosmetic and
GMCY (Glyceryl Caprylate) is a skin-conditioning agent - emollient;
pharmaceutical preparations. Light accelerated the degradation
surfactant - emulsifying agent [112,113]. synergistic effects of
of ascorbyl palmitate. In contrast, sodium ascorbyl phosphate
isopropyl myristate and glyceryl monocaprylate (GEFA-C8)
was stable in both types of microemulsions. Sodium ascorbyl
enhanced transdermal permeation of PTZ by disrupting SC lipids
phosphate is shown to be convenient as an active ingredient in
[114]. There is a considerable interest in the development of
topical preparations [96]. The most common AHAs in cosmetic
preservative-free or self-preserving cosmetics. Lonicera capri
products are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Among others are citric
oleum and Lonicera japonica in combination with glyceryl caprylate
acid, hydroxy caprylic acid, and hydroxycapric acid [97].

Figure 7. Glycolic acid (GA) had anti-inflammatory and photoprotective effects against UVB-irradiation in keratinocytes [88]. (Left) UVB-irradiation activated
the nuclear factor-kappa B (NF-kB) pathway and promoted the inflammasome complex assembly, which in ROS accumulation and the release of several
proinflammatory cytokines (e.g., interleukin (IL)-6, IL-8, Monocyte Chemoattractant Protein (MCP)-1, IL-Iβ, COX-2, and IL-1β; (Right) Pretreatment with GA
could activate DNMT-3B activity and induce the hypermethylation of promoters of NLRC4 and ASC genes, which subsequently hinder of the assembly of the
inflammasome complex. GA also inhibited the UVB-induced promoter activity of NF-kB in keratinocyte cells.

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 OSP J Clin Trials Copyright © Mohiuddin AK

Table 2. Typical Formulation: Cleansing Creams

Ingredient Formulation 1 (%) Formulation 2 (%) Justification of Use
A key component of corneum lipids, an antioxidant and also potent anti-
Stearic Acid 10 12.5
inflammatory lipid, non-toxic and non-irritant [17,18].
Mineral oil has been shown to improve skin softness and barrier
Mineral Oil 5 - function better than some other emollients. Benefits skin through
hydration and occlusion [19].
Petrolatum 2 - Emollient- base; it is poorly absorbed by the skin [24].
It is used as an emulsion stabilizer, opacifying agent, and foam boosting
Cetostearyl Alcohol 1.5 2 surfactant, as well as an aqueous and nonaqueous viscosity-increasing
agent [23].
Emollient; oleaginous vehicle; skin penetrant; solvent, thickening agent,
Isopropyl Myristate 3 5
or lubricant [18], [27].
Lubricants, processing aids, specific to petroleum production. Solvents
Sorbitan Monolaureate 2 -
(for cleaning and degreasing), surface active agents [28].
Glycerin 6.5 - Humectant/Emollient
Anionic surfactant; detergent; emulsifying agent; skin penetrant; wetting
Na-Lauryl SO4 5 -
agent [33].
Triethanolamine 1.5 - A surfactant or pH adjuster [35], alkalizing agent; emulsifying agent
Polyoxyethylene Sorbitan Mono
2 - Preventing surface adsorption and as stabilizers [37].
Laurate
Water 61.5 68.5
Lanolin - 0.4 Emulsifying agent
Coco-Na Isothionate - 12 Surface active agents; Cleansing Agent
Perfume, Preservative q.s. q.s.

Table 3. Lightening Night Cream Formulation [110]

Phase
Product INCI Supplier %
Deionized Water Water ----- 62.10
Glycerin Glycerin Interchimie 4.00
A
Dermosoft® GMCY Glyceryl Caprylate Dr Straetmans* 0.50
Satiaxane™ CX 911 Xanthan Gum Cargill 0.50
Biophilic™ H Hydrogenated Lecithin (and) C12-16 Alcohols (and) Palmitic Acid Lucas Meyer Cosmetics 4.00
Product INCI Supplier %
Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Emile Noel 5.00
Hazelnut Oil Corylus Avellana (Hazel) Seed Oil Emile Noel 5.00
B Cerabeil Blanche Selection Beeswax Baerlocher 4.00
Vitapherole® E1000 Tocopherol (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil VitaeNaturals 0.20
Lipex® 102 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter AAK 3.00
Product INCI Supplier %
Deionized Water Water ----- 5.00
Artocarpus Heterophyllus Seed Extract (and) Maltodextrin (and) Disodium
Whitessence™ Lucas Meyer Cosmetics 2.00
Phosphate (and) Sodium Phosphate
C Mamaku Vital Essence Nature
Water (and) Glycerin (and) Cyathea Medullaris Leaf Extract Lucas Meyer Cosmetics 2.00
PF
Exo-T™ Butylene Glycol (and) Vibrio Alginolyticus Ferment Filtrate Lucas Meyer Cosmetics 1.00
Tyrostat™ 09 Water (and) Glycerin (and) Rumex Occidentalis Extract Lucas Meyer Cosmetics 1.00
Product INCI Supplier %
D Potassium Sorbate Potassium Sorbate ----- 0.30
Product INCI Supplier %
E Relax 2020/2 Fragrance Vanessence 0.40

and/or levulinic acid, p-anisic acid, and ethanol (5%) gave an ingredients but can also interact with extra iron [116]. It’s
important assistance in order to boost the self-preserving system moisturizing and re-fatting properties assist with improving and
and to produce stable and safe cosmetic products [115]. Glyceryl maintaining the moisture and balanced environment of the skin. It
Caprylate is a preferred ingredient in many natural care products can also help to combat impurities due to its strong activity against
(claimed safe for baby products). It is derived from plants, and a Propionibacterium acnes [117]. Xanthan Gum (XG) is a complex
valuable resource because of its many properties. Glyceryl exopolysaccharide produced by the plant-pathogenic bacterium
Caprylate moisturizes and balances the pH of the skin. Its Xanthomonas campestris pv. (Xanthomonas bacteria, a Gram-
antimicrobial and antifungal properties keep bacteria-causing negative bacteria genus that exhibits several different species) and
germs at bay. It also contains a natural preservative that prevents is widely used as a thickener (gelling agent) or viscosity modifier
mold from forming. It is very compatible with known organic [118]. It is also used as stabilizing agent; suspending agent;

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 OSP J Clin Trials Copyright © Mohiuddin AK

sustained-release agent [18]. The use of bio adhesive hydrogels for Hydrogenated Hazelnut Oil function as skin-conditioning agents-
skin care presents important advantages such as long residence emollient and skin-conditioning agents-occlusive. It's loaded with
times on the application site and reduced product administration skin-nourishing vitamins and essential fatty acids that help protect
frequency. Hydrogel formulations showed a prevalently elastic skin against sun damage, boost collagen production, and more.
rheological behaviour. Complex viscosity of carbomer Hazelnut is non-greasy and is best used for those who have oily
homopolymer type C hydrogels was higher than that of the kappa skin but still want to enjoy the many benefits of carrier oils [128].
carrageenan hydrogels. Formulations which combined carbomer Vitapherole E1000 (Tocopherol and Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
homopolymer type C with xanthan gum or with carbomer combination); Vitapherole® is a line of IP natural-source vitamin E
copolymer type B were the most promising for bio adhesive skin or tocopherols including α-tocopherols, mixed tocopherols, and
products [119]. It has widely been used as an additive in various acetates. They protect the skin from environmental stressors like
industrial and biomedical applications such as food and food pollution and UV. Tocopherols also help tighten and firm the look of
packaging, cosmetics, water-based paints, toiletries, petroleum, skin which makes vitamin E the perfect addition to any anti-aging
oil-recovery, construction and building materials, and drug formula [129]. Shea butter is a vegetable fat obtained from the fruit
delivery. Recently, it has shown great potential in issue engineering of a tree native to Africa, Butyrospermum parkii. Shea butter is
applications and a variety of modification methods have been primarily composed of fatty acids such as stearic and oleic acids.
employed to modify xanthan gum as polysaccharide for this This product can be used in formulations from 1% to 100%. It is a
purpose [120]. Biophilic™ H is a patented phospholipid-based O/W natural emollient that will add moisture back into the skin while
lamellar emulsifier designed to create elegant and very comfortable also reducing swelling. Shea tree is abundantly found in the wide
formulas. Its lamellar structure has a particular affinity to the skin, belt of savannah including West African countries like Nigeria, and
resulting in a second skin effect for maximum biocompatibility and further east in Uganda. Nowadays, shea butter, mainly the
tolerance [121]. Hydrogenated Lecithin is the product of controlled traditional one (called BIO-shea butter) interests cosmetic and
hydrogenation of Lecithin. Bilayers of these phospholipids in water pharmaceutical firms, contained nutritional elements like essential
may form liposomes, a spherical structure in which the acyl chains fatty acids (oleic and linoleic acids), minerals (calcium, iron, copper,
are inside and not exposed to the aqueous phase. Lecithin and magnesium, sodium, potassium and zinc), vitamins (A and E) and
Hydrogenated Lecithin are used in a large number of cosmetic carotene, which would present them as available, cheap and
formulations as skin conditioning agents-miscellaneous and as accessible nutritive edible fats [130,131]. Whit essence ™ is a strong
surfactant-emulsifying agents. Hydrogenated Lecithin is also used natural lightening agent extracted from Asian nangka seeds. The
as a suspending agent-non-surfactant. Based on the available data, specific proteins of Whit essence ™ inhibit the transfer of melanin
Lecithin and Hydrogenated Lecithin are safe as used in rinse-off from melanocytes to keratinocytes. The decrease in the melanin
cosmetic products; they may be safely used in leave-on products at quantity at the surface of the skin results in a clear and unified
concentrations up to 15%, the highest concentration tested in complexion [132,133]. Exo-T™, exopolysaccharide from Kopara
clinical irritation and sensitization studies; but the safety of use (microorganisms mat) living in unique ecosystem in the rims of
could not be substantiated in cosmetic products likely to be inhaled. French Polynesian atolls, acts as an anti-wrinkle agent, anti-aging
Because of the possibility of formation of nitrosamines, these agent and regenerating / revitalizing (manufacturer’s claim) [134].
ingredients should not be used in cosmetic products in which Also, Tyro stat™ 9 is claimed as a potent strong inhibitor of
N-nitroso compounds may be formed [122]. Functionally sunflower tyrosinase enzymatic activity, one of the main enzymes involved in
oil is a diluent; emollient; emulsifying agent; solvent; tablet binder. the pigmentation process [135]. Potassium sorbate is a potassium
Skin care influences skin barrier function during the first postnatal salt having sorbate as the counterion. Potassium Sorbate is a mild
weeks. Sunflower oil did not harm skin barrier function adaptation preservative being used in cosmetic and skin care formulas as a
in healthy term neonates during the first five weeks of life [123]. paraben alternative to prevent or retard the growth of
Natural oils are applied topically as part of a traditional oil massage microorganisms and protect products from spoiling.
to neonates in many developing countries. Topical application of Phenoxyethanol, citric acid, sodium benzoate, and potassium
linoleate-enriched oil such as sunflower seed oil might enhance sorbate were very common in all the cosmetic product categories,
skin barrier function and improve outcome in neonates with found in a study where 2300 products commercially available in
compromised barrier function. Mustard oil, used routinely in new Spain was collected and examined to identify the frequency of a
born care throughout South Asia, has toxic effects on the epidermal wide variety of preservatives in different product categories [136]
barrier that warrant further investigation [124,125]. Topical [Exhibit 1].
application of olive oil for 4 weeks caused a significant reduction in
stratum corneum integrity and induced mild erythema in Massage Creams
volunteers with and without a history of atopic dermatitis. A beauty massage cream that promotes resilience and firmness
Sunflower seed oil preserved stratum corneum integrity, did not while helping prevent sagging and other signs of aging. The great
cause erythema, and improved hydration in the same volunteers. interest in eternal youth has developed a large market for skin
In contrast to sunflower seed oil, topical treatment with olive oil care products claiming anti-wrinkle effects. Facial massage is an
significantly damages the skin barrier, and therefore has the extremely popular form of beauty treatment and is thought to
potential to promote the development of, and exacerbate existing, rejuvenate the skin. It may refresh the subjects by reducing their
atopic dermatitis [126]. Several studies have shown significant psychological distress and activating the sympathetic nervous
differences between the moisturizing effects and skin tolerances of system [152]. Performing short-term facial massage with a roller
virgin and refined vegetable oils when incorporated in cosmetic increases SkBF, and long-term use improves the vascular dilatation
emulsions. The phospholipid content of Hazelnut oil decreased response [150]. Facial beauty treatment generally consists of
from 286 ppm in virgin oil to traces in refined oil. Still, moisturizing three steps: vigorous massaging of the face with creams, steaming
effect obtained with the emulsion containing the enriched refined (using a hot towel or a steaming gadget), and application of a face
oil was shown to be the same as that obtained with the virgin oil mask containing adsorbents and astringents. Combining massage
emulsion [127]. Hazelnut oil contains 66-85% oleic acid, 7-25% with moisturizer application is a popular technique in beauty spa
linoleic acid, 4-9% palmitic acid and 1-6% stearic acid. When used sessions. The subjective positive psychological effects of massage
in cosmetics and personal care products, hazelnut oil and with moisturizer application in hand and face beauty treatment are

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 OSP J Clin Trials Copyright © Mohiuddin AK

documented by many people attending spa sessions. Interestingly, foot [106]. Massage in infancy improves growth and post-massage
daily performance of massage after moisturizer application was sleep. However, only sesame oil showed significant benefit [107].
not an effective external intervention for enhancing moisturizer Swedish Massage Therapy (SMT) is a complementary treatment
efficacy [147]. The action of rubbing a cream or emollient into that is believed to provide relaxation and therefore able to reduce
the skin is a form of massage, and this simple action will go a blood pressure caused by stress [108]. Massage creams and lotions
very long way towards the recovery of skin integrity and in the are well-suited to deep tissue and other high-friction massages.
prevention of harm and infection [148]. Anecdotally, the addition They tend to provide medium glide, and while they can be
of aromatherapy oils to massage cream may have a positive effect nourishing to the skin, are typically absorbed fairly slowly. Lotion
on symptom relief in people with cancer, although evidence is and cream are often similar products, but tend to have a different
again lacking [149]. Although there are several subjective benefits consistency. Creams are generally quite a bit thicker, while lotions
with facial beauty treatment, there may be immediate side- are more liquid. Lotions tend to give more bang for buck, as they
effects, such as erythema and edema, as well as delayed problems, are more spreadable. Creams do better for topical treatments on
such as dermatitis and acneiform eruption (follicular eruptions tough areas of skin. Some creams and lotions, particularly water-
characterized by papules and pustules resembling acne), in about based ones, can leave the skin feeling dried out. Creams generally
one-third of patients [101]. Gentle massage is often facilitated come in jars or tubs which don’t fit into holsters, which can be a
using a cream to reduce friction on the skin. However, there is also hassle during treatments. Creams and lotions are often cold when
the possibility of massage causing harm - massage or rubbing of first applied to the skin and can be difficult to heat. Many are also
vulnerable skin may exert shear stresses which may themselves scented, which will bother some clients [109].
potentially cause damage. In addition, it is also possible that the
Ethylhexyl palmitate is an ingredient that functions as an
use of a cream or emollient as part of the massage regimen may
emollient, solvent, pigment wetting agent, and fragrance fixative in
increase epidermal hydration and prevent dermal stripping and
cosmetics and personal care products. As an emollient, ethylhexyl
the subsequent exposure of fragile dermal tissue [102]. Cellulite palmitate helps to keep the skin moist and supple by reducing
has been treated with massage which decreases tissue edema but water loss from the epidermis (the outer layer of skin). Emollients
it is also likely to have its effects at the cellular level by stimulating also act as lubricants by reducing friction when anything rubs
fibroblast (and keratinocyte) activity while decreasing adipocyte against the skin (Exhibit 3). Ethylhexyl palmitate is considered to
activity. In addition to massage, effective topical creams with be a non-occlusive emollient, which means it does not form a film
a variety of agents were used to ameliorate the condition [103]. on the surface of skin. It is often used as an organic replacement to
Slimming Cream Containing 3.5% Water-Soluble Caffeine and silicones in a cosmetic formulation because it provides a dry-slip,
Xanthene’s appears to be effective for the treatment of cellulitis silky feel that is very similar to how a silicone would feel. While
without serious adverse effects. Moreover, massage is also used to all skin types can benefit from emollients like ethylhexyl palmitate,
remove interstitial fluid and accelerate lymphatic drainage, which emollients are very beneficial for those who have dry, rough and/
leads to the reduction of cellulite [157]. Client-preferred massage or flaky skin. Emollients can treat these symptoms, leaving the skin
creams are ideal for all modalities and offer a unique combination looking and feeling soft and smooth. In addition, emollients can
of medium glide, friction, and typically absorb completely into the benefit those that suffer from conditions such as eczema, psoriasis,
skin (Table 4). Massage Warehouse carries a wide range of organic or other inflammatory skin condition [159]. Instruments that
massage cream brands including TheraPro, Massage FX, Lotus have been used for assessing epidermal hydration are based on
Touch, Soothing Touch, Bon Vital and much more! [104]. Massage measurements of conductance, capacitance and impedance of the
therapy has been shown to have beneficial effects on varying skin. Most of the commercial moisturizer contains Aloe barbadensis
conditions including prenatal depression, preterm infants, full-term (Aloe vera) as a moisturizing agent. Ingestion of Aloe preparations
infants, autism, skin conditions, pain syndromes including arthritis is associated with diarrhea, hypokalaemia, pseudo melanosis
and fibromyalgia, hypertension, autoimmune conditions including coli (a disorder of pigmentation of the wall of the colon), kidney
asthma and multiple sclerosis, immune conditions including HIV failure, as well as phototoxicity and hypersensitive reactions [160].
and breast cancer and aging problems including Parkinson's and However, there so many other herb’s extract/juices/oils like grape
dementia [105]. Thai foot massage may be one of the alternative seed, cucumber, basil, jojoba oil, almond oil, olive oil, etc. present
therapies to improve balance performance for diabetic patients as in the commercial moisturizer section claiming for restoring skin
a result of increasing Range of Motion (ROM) and sensation of the hydration and viscoelasticity [161]. Many of grapeseed oil's beauty

Table 4. Massage Cream Formulation [158]

INGREDIENT % of total 500 g 2 cups Function
Part A
Distilled Water 38.10 190.50 3/4 cup + 1 TBS Diluent
Glycerin 2.00 10.00 2 tsp Humectant
Part B
Cetyl Alcohol 4.25 21.25 4 1/4 tsp Thickener
Ethylhexyl Palmitate 23.00 115.00 1/2 cup Occlusive oil for slip
Grapeseed Oil 8.50 42.50 3 TBS Vegetable oil for moisturizing
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 3.55 17.75 3 1/2 tsp Emulsifier blend
Caprylic/ Capric Triglycerides 10.00 50.00 1/4 cup Occlusive oil for slip
Sweet Almond Oil 3.50 17.50 3 1/2 tsp Vegetable oil for moisturizing
Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate 6.10 30.5 2 TBS Emulsifier blend
Part C
Germaben II 1.00 5.00 1 tsp Preservative
Total 100 % 500g 2 cups

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benefits may be due to its omega-6 fatty acid content and vitamin This term was developed by marketers, promoting its function
E, an antioxidant that helps to build tissue, and lineolic acid, a fatty to moisten the skin. Moisturizer and emollient are often regarded
acid which promotes hair and skin growth. Non-ionic emulsifiers as synonymous, even when occlusives and humectants are also part
depend chiefly upon hydroxyl groups and ether linkages (from of it. Emollients are mostly made up of lipids and their components,
polyhydric alcohol anhydrides and polyoxyethylene chains) for which fill intercorneocyte cluster gaps to enhance skin hydration,
their hydrophobic effects [164]. Non-ionic emulsifiers are usually smoothness, softness, flexibility. Occlusives are other type of
less irritating than their ionic counterparts. Examples of non- moisturizer which is mostly oil based and serve the function of
ionic emulsifiers include cholesterol, a natural component of the maintaining skin water content by creating a hydrophobic barrier
lipid bilayer, polyethylene glycol, cetearyl alcohol, ceteareth-20, over the skin and blocking trans-epidermal water loss. The last
and stearyl alcohol [162]. This non-ionic emulsifier blend, INCI type of moisturizers are humectants, that consist of hygroscopic
Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth 20, is a waxy pastille and creates a substances which help the stratum corneum to absorb water by
thicker, waxier end product. It is derived from coconut fatty acid. It attracting water from dermis and a humid environment into
is excellent for foot and elbow creams, which are slightly heavier. the epidermis. The efficacy of moisturizers depends largely on
Provides good emollience and feel. It forms highly stable emulsions proper selection and compliance to continuously use it (Exhibit
with excellent appearance and feel, compatible with a wide range of 2) [199]. Moisturizers, among all other skin creams, most widely
ingredients and pH [163]. Chemically, caprylic /capric triglyceride used. If water is lost more rapidly from stratum corneum than it is
contains a high concentration of fatty acids, which allows it to
received from the lower layer of the epidermis. The skin becomes
provide an occlusive layer to help increase moisture-retention at
dehydrated and loses its flexibility. Water alone will not restore
the skin's surface. As a result, caprylic /capric triglyceride can have
the flexibility [174,175]. There are two basic types of dry skin.
emollient properties that may boost skin-hydration levels [166].
The first is due to prolonged exposure to low humidity and air
Application of the o/w emulsion formulation containing either HP
movement. The second is due to ageing related physicochemical
or capric/caprylic triglyceride significantly elevated skin moisture
content and thus reduced Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) changes. Again, Dry skin or xeroderma is an extremely common
by a maximal approximately 33% against the control formulation problem which can be induced by complex interactions between
within 3 h and maintained this up to 6h [167]. Germaben II-E can environmental and individual factors including, but not limited
be used in problem formulations, without the need for additional to: low environmental temperature, low humidity, exposure to
co-preservatives. It is compatible with almost all cosmetic chemicals, microorganisms, aging, psychological stress, atopic
ingredients, including surfactants and proteins. Germaben II-E is a dermatitis and eczema. Eczema common among young children.
clear viscous liquid preservative system with a characteristic mild Other conditions, such as psoriasis and type 2 diabetes, can also
odour. It is readily soluble at a level of 1.0% in both water/oil and cause skin to dry out [32], [184]. Xerosis is abnormal dryness
oil/water emulsions, but not in water alone. Germaben II contains of the skin (Figure 9), mucous membranes, or conjunctiva
propylene glycol, propylparaben, methylparaben, and diazolidinyl (xerophthalmia). There are many causes of xerosis, and treatment
urea. Some studies have raised concerns that paraben substances depends on the particular cause [198]. Dry skin conditions are
may be carcinogenic owing to their effect of mimicking the body’s often not considered important by health professionals, and as
hormone estrogen” [168-170]. a consequence treatment are frequently under-prescribed. As a
result of this, problems with untreated dry skin can lead to a variety
Vitamins used in skin Creams of issues. Conditions such as pruritus and ichthyosis vulgaris can
The number of cosmetic products which include vitamins as be distressing, while eczema and psoriasis can lead to more serious
a constituent has increased three-fold since 1991. Vitamins are consequences such as fissures and infections and can result in a
commonly used as ingredients of products designed to improve the reduced quality of life and social isolation [200]. Moisturizers
appearance and health of the skin; for this reason, the cutaneous are topical products designed to improve and maintain the skin
benefits of such products are actively researched by dermatologists barrier function and to help prevent dry skin. It is common to
and chemists. It has been claimed that fat-soluble as well as think that a moisturizer adds water to the skin; however, this is a
water-soluble vitamins are capable of being taken up through the misunderstanding. Rather, a moisturizer works by preventing or
skin. The use of stabilized vitamins in cosmetic preparations for reducing water evaporation from the skin.8 This action allows the
external application is justified [171]. Pantothenic acid, is a part of skin to rehydrate from within. There are three classes of chemical
the water-soluble vitamin B complex. Its precursor and the related ingredients that regularly serve as moisturizers: occlusives,
materials-panthenol, pantethine and pangamic acid have all been humectants and emollients. Often these chemicals are either the
quoted as having a beneficial action on the skin and being useful in same as or similar to natural components in the SC. They are often
skin and/or hair preparations. Skin softening ability of pantothenic used in combination, with some ingredients providing overlap of
acid-based topical products have also been demonstrated in a few characteristics [176,177].
recent clinical trials [172]. Although there is no certain proof that Occlusion (by lanolin, petroleum, silicones, mineral and
they penetrate the skin and reach the location where they might vegetable oil) prevent water loss from healthy normal skin causing
exert an influence, vitamin B complex, panthenol and vitamin B6 the stratum corneum to be more hydrated, making it softer and
(pyridoxine) are used in some cosmetics. Vitamin D, like vitamin supple. Examples of occlusive are: mineral and vegetable oils,
A, is oil-soluble and is essential for skin health, but deficiencies are lanolin and silicones. Their effect is increased by the use of mixtures
best corrected by oral administration to achieve a systemic effect. of lipids and other fatty chemicals which have been designed to
However, vitamins D2 and D3 (calciferol) are used, sometimes in imitate the composition of the skin’s natural oily secretions. More
conjunction with vitamin A. A mixture of vitamins A, E and D3 recently, skin substantive barrier materials (mainly based on
has been claimed to be synergistic. Vitamin E is said to enhance quaternary ammonium complexes) have become available which
percutaneous resorption, and vitamin H is claimed to help fat and seem to be able to influence the rate of trans-epidermal water loss
cholesterol synthesis. Other vitamins having some using topical without putting an inclusive or greasy barrier on the skin surface.
preparations include the so-called vitamin F, now known as These materials can be shown to be substantive to skin (and
essential (unsaturated) fatty acids (EFA) [173]. hair) and act not only as moisturizers, but as emollients and skin
Moisturizer conditioning agents. Examples are quaternium, a hydroxyethyl-
cellulose derivative [178]. Humectants (Glycerol, Ethylene Glycol,
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Figure 8. Diana, Princess of Wales, 1986 [154-156]. According to the magazine Longevity, Princess Diana was "scrupulous about using an SPF-8 sunblock."
While the American Academy of Dermatology recommends applying at least SPF 30, protection against UV rays can prevent both sunburn and dangerous
skin cancers.

Figure 9. Mechanisms of xerosis [196]. Normal skin contains lower levels of histamine and inflammatory cytokines compared to dry skin. Premature
expression of involucrin, a protein that forms a protective envelope around corneocytes, has been implicated in the pathophysiology of dry skin. In addition,
xerotic skin has been shown to contain higher levels of keratin 5 and 14 and lower levels of keratin 1 and 10 compared to normal skin. The schematic on
the right shows the cracked stratum corneum that is characteristic of dry skin and associated with decreased water content (blue spheres) and increased

PG, sorbitol alone or in admixture at various levels) attract water Partitioning of antioxidants, hydrogen bonding, interphase
from atmosphere, so supplementing the skin water content. They transport, surface accessibility, and interaction of emulsifier with
can be used alone or in a mixture at various levels. Whether or not antioxidants are considered to be important parameters that
they penetrate the skin surface is a moot point, but at least they determine antioxidant activity in lipid-containing systems. Some
will attract moisture to the skin (Figure 10). [179,180]. The third formulations may deteriorate the skin condition, whereas others
and most valuable approach to miniaturization to supplementing improve the clinical appearance and skin barrier function. For
Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF) from the skin those are example, emulsifiers may weaken the barrier. On the other hand,
removed by polar solvents and detergent solutions. The NMF petrolatum has an immediate barrier-repairing effect in delipidized
contains a combination of several naturally occurring free amino stratum corneum. Moreover, one ceramide-dominant lipid mixture
acids, urocanic acid, inorganic salts, sugars, lactic acid, and urea. improved atopic dermatitis and decreased TEWL in an open-label
Many of these are highly efficient at attracting and binding water study in children [181-183]. A typical moisturizing formulation is
from the atmosphere, allowing adequate hydration of corneocytes detailed in Table 5.
even in low humidity environment. Once applied to the skin, the
Isopropyl Linoleate the ester of isopropyl alcohol, it is a pale
ingredients can stay on the surface, be absorbed into the skin,
yellow, oily liquid. In cosmetics and personal care products,
be metabolized, or disappear from the surface by evaporation,
Isopropyl Linoleate may be used in the formulation of face and
sloughing off, or by contact with other materials. In addition
skin care products, hair care products, and eye and facial makeup.
to substances considered as actives, e.g. fats and humectants,
It acts as a lubricant on the skin's surface, which gives the skin
moisturizers contain substances conventionally considered
a soft and smooth appearance [185]. The structure of a stable
as excipients (e.g. emulsifiers, antioxidants, preservatives).

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Figure 10. Winter treatments [137-139]. In the winter season when the air is crisp and chilly, a special skin care is necessary. Dry skin in the winter has been
reported to involve scaling, defects in water holding and barrier functions, and decreased ceramide levels in the Stratum Corneum (SC). Indicators of dry
skin conditions (conductance, dryness, roughness, and scaliness) strongly correlated with the level of ceramide. Daily application of a moisturizing cream is
effective in improving mild subclinical inflammation that is induced on the facial skin by the winter environment.

Table 5. Moisturizer Formulation [185-195]

No. Ingredient % Justification
1 Isopropyl Linoleate 2 Lubricant
2 Glyceryl Stearate 3 Emollient; emulsifying agent
3 Diisopropyl adipate 2 Plasticizer, moisturizer, cleaning agent
4 Myristyle myristate 1 Emollient
5 PEG 40 Stearate 1 Surfactant; cleansing agent
6 Cetyl alcohol 1.5 Emollient; emulsifying agent; stiffening agent
7 Ceteareath-20 0.5 Emulsifying agent
8 Quaternium-22 2 Antistatic
9 Hydroxyethyl cellulose (2% aq) 25 Emulsifying, bubble-forming agent, viscosity-increasing agent.
10 PG 3 Preservative; disinfectant; humectant
11 Water 59
12 Perfume, preservative q.s.

O/W cream is characterized by a more or less pronounced mixed on healthy skin, studies showed that patients suffering from
crystal bilayer. The addition of co-emulsifiers in order to achieve severe burns were treated with PEG-based antimicrobial cream;
a soft formulation often leads to a mixed crystal bilayer network this treatment resulted in kidney toxicity. Due to the presence of
of high viscosity and even phase separation. In order to avoid this PEG, this ingredient may contain potentially toxic manufacturing
component of different chemical identities are used which often impurities such as 1,4-dioxane [189]. Cetyl alcohol is a common
are not inert or harmless if they are absorbed. The amount of choice of emollient. It forms a layer on the skin, which traps the
co-emulsifier used should not be too high, as it would crystallize water on the skin and prevents it from escaping, thereby inhibiting
increasingly during storage which gives the preparation an optical skin dehydration [190]. Ceteareth-20 functions as an emollient and
inhomogeneity and a lack in softness which is needed for a suitable emulsifier. It's usually used in conjunction with other alcohols and
cosmetic acceptance. A slightly higher concentration than is fatty acids, working to thicken a solution and help other ingredients
necessary for the mixed emulsifier system can be advantageous, dissolve in a solvent. It also functions as a non-ionic stabilizer in oil
as the formation of a separate crystalline lipophilic network in in water emulsions. Ceteareth-20 is the polyethylene glycol ether
the preparation increases its viscosity which will lead to a higher of cetearyl alcohol; may contain potentially toxic impurities such as
physico-chemical stability of the formulation. These results were 1,4-dioxane [191]. Quaternium-22 is a light amber-coloured liquid,
obtained with the co-emulsifiers glyceryl monostearate (Imwitor a quaternary ammonium salt. The unreacted monomer content
900), cetylstearyl alcohol (Lanette O), and PEG-20-glycerolstearate of these ingredients was considered low and of no toxicological
(Tagat S2) as O/W emulsifier [186]. Glyceryl Monostearate concern. Limited data showed no skin irritation/sensitization.
Emollient; emulsifying agent; solubilizing agent; stabilizing Although these ingredients were nongenotoxic in bacterial assays,
agent [18]. Diisopropyl Adipate (DIPA) is a fatty acid ester and an mammalian genotoxicity, carcinogenicity, and reproductive and
isopropyl ester; clear, colourless to light yellow viscous liquids. developmental toxicity data were not available [192]. However, its
It is used for a variety of applications, such as the production of toxicity is due to its ability to act as a nitro sating agent, releasing
moisturizers, shaving lotions and cleaning agents. DIPA acts as a potentially carcinogenic nitrosamines [193]. Hydroxyethyl cellulose
lubricant on the skin surface which gives the skin a soft and smooth is a polysaccharide derivative with gel thickening, emulsifying,
appearance. Its solvent properties allow its use as a carrier for bubble-forming, water-retaining and stabilizing properties. It is
other cosmetic ingredients and also to soften synthetic compounds used as a key ingredient in many household cleaning products,
by reducing brittleness and cracking [187]. Myristyl Myristate lubricants and cosmetics due to its non-ionic and water-soluble
is a 100% natural vegetable derived ester utilizing only the nature [194]. Propylene glycol is a synthetic liquid substance
Myristic fatty acids. Non-greasy solid emollient, enhances esthetic that absorbs water. It is a clear, colourless, viscous, practically
properties of skin care products, gives more body & spread ability, odourless liquid, with a sweet, slightly acrid taste resembling that
results in superior whitening to the product and improved benefits of glycerine. It is a propanediol that exists as a clear, colourless and
to the skin [188]. About PEG-40 STEARATE: PEG-40 stearate is a hygroscopic liquid and consists of propane where the hydrogens
synthetic polymer composed of PEG (polyethylene glycol) and at positions 1 and 2 are substituted by hydroxyl groups. It acts as
stearic acid, a naturally occurring fatty acid. Products and formulas Antimicrobial preservative; disinfectant; humectant; plasticizer;
containing PEG 40 Stearate should not be used on broken or solvent; stabilizing agent; water-miscible cosolvent. Propylene
irritated skin. Although PEGs are considered safe for use topically glycol is used as an organic solvent and diluent in pharmaceuticals
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and many other industrial applications [195] [Exhibit 2,3& 4]. be used as complete makeup and are often termed powder creams.
They can be water-continuous or oil-continuous systems in liquid
Vanishing and Foundation Cream or solid form. The difficulties encountered in the preparations are:
The majority of the products are moisturizers with added (a). The preferential absorption of emulsifier in the high surface of
ingredients to support marketing claims. Whether the product is a the pigment may sometimes cause inversion of the emulsion; (b).
facial foundation, an antiaging night cream, a sunscreen, a topical The inadequate dispersion of the pigment for reproducible colours.
antioxidant, or a skin-lightening serum, the formulation is basically Pigments can be suspended by the use of cellulose derivatives
a moisturizer. Skin care products are numerous and perplexing, or inorganic silicates such as bentonite or hydrated magnesium
yet there is certain commonality among 80% of the formulations silicate [99]. According to dermatologists, it has been researched
[208]. In order to achieve rapid ‘Rub in’ effect, vanishing creams that the foundation cream covers the skin pores to produce a
are composed of emollient esters in oil phase which leave little radiant look causing pore congestion and disrupt the skin from
apparent film over skin. For this reason, a low percentage oil breathing. Not only that, after a long time it has been observed
phase usually chosen. The presence of the humectant glycerine that the cream becomes oily which might result into blemishes
was also used to claim that they helped reduce moisture loss from and peeling especially dry skin. It is therefore advisable that after
dry skin. Vanishing Cream is made especially for the outer skin. using foundation cream the layer should be thoroughly wash in
It is greaseless. It contains a marvelous substance that prevents the evening or else face the consequences of inflammation, acnes,
loss of skin moisture-actually replaces lost moisture [209]. Major rashes and pimples as the skin might be stuck with this. Women
difference with cold cream is that cold cream is an emulsion of with status cosmetics cannot tolerate makeup and complain of a
water and certain fats, usually including beeswax and various scent continuous burning sensation after any application [219].
agents, designed to smooth skin and remove makeup. The emulsion
Hand and Body Creams (All Purpose Creams)
is of a "water in oil" type unlike the "oil in water" type emulsion
of vanishing cream, so-called because it seems to disappear when True to its name, all-purpose cream is a flexible and versatile
applied on skin [210]. The history of foundation use can be traced type of cream that can be used for both your savory and sweet
back as far as 200 B.C. It was considered fashionable to have a creations [207]. They act nourishing or night cream when applied
pale complexion, so Greek women applied white lead powder and excessively, they function as hand creams when applied sparingly,
chalk to lighten their skin. Roman women and men also lightened thus they are called all-purpose cream [220]. All-purpose creams
their skins using white lead, chalk, and tin oxide-based creams. are typified by a W/O emulsion or by high oil content O/W
This fashion continued during the middle ages up to the early 19th emulsions. These products are for general face and body usage and
century when consumers used numerous toxic concoctions to generally have a heavy consistency and significant drag on rub-out
lighten their skin [217]. Foundation creams possess many of the [42]. The cream is pourable at room temperature but is also able
same properties of vanishing creams. Foundation creams process to be easily whipped when chilled. Preparations should comply
many of the same properties. These creams are for daytime use to following requirements: (a) As a foundation cream for general use
protect and “condition” the cleansed skin. It is important to know it must provide a satisfactory foundation base for make-up without
whether a foundation provide sun protection and whether it meets being too greasy (b) As a cleansing cream it should be liquefy
the standards set for other sunscreen products. Sunscreen agents quickly, be of an oily nature but should be free from ‘Drag’. It should
help to protect the consumer’s skin from the harmful, aging effects not be readily absorbed by the skin (c) As a hand cream it should
of shortwave solar radiation. Foundation cream comes in several be emollient yet not leave a greasy or sticky film on the skin (d) As
forms: the original cream, a lighter mousse version, a heavier stick a protective and emollient cream, it should leave a continuous but
version, and a "pancake" version, a powder that turns creamy after non-occlusive oil film on the skin. There appears to be a market
spraying it with water. There's also a relatively new hybrid called for all purpose cream because: (i) Unsophisticated user who are
cream to powder foundation (also called dual-finish foundation), unwilling to pay money therefore buys one cream to do as much as
which looks like a powder and applies like a cream if it is wet, possible (ii) Slightly more sophisticated user who buys a specialty
and then dries to a powder finish. Protection which is imbalanced cream for one particular function and uses it as a specialty cream
for either UV-B or UV-A radiation is potentially harmful for users (iii) User who finds the cream ideally suited to their particular skin
believing themselves adequately protected. Foundations proved to (iv) The user who particularly fragments their skin creams but
be much more interesting because they possess a non-negligible resorts to an all-purpose cream when travelling or on holiday (v)
SPF as well as good photostability making these products safe For general family use and protection against the elements [48].
in terms of their mode of application (applied once daily in a
study) [214]. They must therefore leave the skin non-greasy and Cautions with Sensitive skin in using regular skin care
preferably matte so that other makeup can easily be applied over creams/lotions
it. Modern foundation creams are of excellent appearance and
Sensitive skin is generally defined as skin that is reactive
stability. They contain emollients and moisturizers. In terms of
to external aggressors both in the environment and skincare.
spread ability, coverage, and adhesion, the results of group who
When this barrier is weakened due to exposure to environmental
used the 'oscillation applicator' were significantly twice as high as
aggressors, harsh products or because the body is worn down
the other group who applied by hand [215].
through stress for example, it is unable to function properly and
The right foundation helps creating illusion of flawless skin. the sensitive nerve endings just under the skin become irritated
Foundation is arguably the most important part of our makeup and subsequently react [223]. Therefore, sensitive skin can be a
routine. It covers blemishes, evens out skin tone and mattifes or result of either nerve ending becoming more prone to irritation,
illuminates depending on needs (Figure 11) [221]. Clients with or the skin barrier function breaking down. Sensitive skin presents
pigmented skin are often coerced into purchasing a foundation that as smarting, burning, stinging, itching, and/or tight sensation
has too much white pigment [216]. Pigmented foundation creams in their skin. These symptoms may occur minutes to hours after
can contain from 3-25% of pigments. Those with between 3 and contact with a cosmetic product/ environmental stimulant or
10% form a suitable substrate for the use for the subsequent use even after several episodes of use of a topic product, triggering the
of powder, whereas those with higher pigment concentrations can conduction by cumulative effect [224]. Sensitive skin: often feels

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Figure 11. Jessica Alba [221,222]. The Dark Angel (TV series by James Cameron, premiered in Y2K) super star uses an all-natural, organic foundation,
according to Glamour magazine, UK. “Vapour’s foundation makes my complexion flawless without having to use powder,” she told In Style.

tight and uncomfortable; is sometimes sore or sensitive to touch; “Multi-ingredient anti-aging moisturizer designed to improve the
needs extra hydration in winter; dries out during flights; can be oily appearance of facial skin”. Skin care products are characterized by
in summer; flushes easily after a spicy meal or drinking alcohol; has effects, evoked by actives that are delivered through vehicles that
patches of redness that may or may not fade; has areas of uneven rely on specific technologies. The regulatory situation is unknown
texture, with dryness and flakiness; reacts to skincare; becomes to most of the consumers and healthcare professionals. They have
itchy or develops a rash after contact with irritants; can feel itchy to trust the current regulations on cosmetic products and quality
after wearing coarse, synthetic fabrics; turns red and dries out after standards used by the manufacturer. This means that professional
a hot shower or bath; becomes irritable after continued washing healthcare practitioners have a substantial responsibility for skin
with hard water. common causes of sensitive skin can include: (i) health while delivering skin care.
sun exposure (ii) exposure to air pollution (iii) frequent changes in
temperature (iv) cold, harsh weather (v) hard water (water with Article Summary
higher mineral content) (v) very hot water (vi) lack of sleep (vii) Skin care provide almost any possible kind of vehicles, including
hormonal changes during your menstrual cycle or pregnancy (viii) emulsifiers, surfactants, oils and butters, waxes, and hydrophilic
stress and late nights (ix) chlorine in swimming pools (x) dry skin solutions. These substances combine the properties of drug delivery
(xi) dehydration [225]. Sensitive skin is less tolerant to frequent to the skin, typical of vehicles, with the ability to produce specific
and prolonged use of cosmetics and toiletries. With the change actions on the skin, such as occlusive, moisturizing, smoothing,
in lifestyle and also with increased opportunity to use many new firming, soothing, and conditioning effects. This term “Cosmetics”
brands of cosmetics and toiletries, there has been an increase in indicates cosmetic-pharmaceutical hybrids aimed at enhancing
females complaining of unique sensation in their facial skin. The the beauty of the skin by means of ingredients that modify skin
condition is found in more than 50% of women and 40% of men, functionality or provide additional health-related function or
creating a sizable demand for products designed to minimize skin benefit. As well as giving beauty to a person via the skin, the
sensitivity. Good numbers of invasive and non-invasive tests are cosmetic industry has now strongly linked its products medicinally
designed to evaluate and predict the sensitive skin. Management to the subject of anti-ageing of the skin. The industry has also
includes guidelines for selecting suitable cosmetics and toiletries coined such terms as actives, cosmeceuticals, nutricosmetics, etc.,
in sensitive skin individuals [226]. and the legislation associated with cosmetology and dermatology
has become similar.
Epilogue
The skin plays many roles ranging from barrier function to Acknowledgement
highly complex biochemical and photo biochemical processes. It’s a great honor and gratitude to be pharmacists in research
If we follow the definition above then skin care products are and education process. All pharmacists, officials, journalists,
inherently not simply cosmetics to beautify the appearance of the magazine analysts and associates that I met in this purpose, were
skin. Many cosmetic formulations have complex mixtures of actives very kind and helpful. I’m thankful to Lauren Balukonis, account
the interactions of which are not all well-defined. They then affect executive within the beauty division at 5W Public Relations,
either the structure or the function (or both) of the skin. Unlike working with both entrepreneurs and established brands. I’m also
drugs, cosmetics typically are very safe and have few significant grateful to seminar library of Faculty of Pharmacy, University of
serious adverse events. However, like drugs, these active agents Dhaka and BANSDOC Library, Bangladesh for providing me books,
can impact many diverse functions of the skin and we do not journal and newsletters. The greatest help was from students and
fully comprehend the implications of these actions in many cases. colleagues who continually supported me in collection and data
Skin care products are readily available and their promotions extraction from books, journals, newsletters and precious time in
with fanciful claims are omnipresent. The promotions are based discussion followed by providing information on different types of
on effects, evoked by actives that are delivered through vehicles cosmetics in use. A portion of this article is long been lectured as
that rely on specific technologies. Due to the fact, that these course material. So, it is very much helpful for me to deliver better
products are in direct contact to the target tissue, their vehicle and than before as many more things are studied.
ingredients are able to profoundly modulate the characteristics
of the skin and some of its functions. This makes products for the References
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