Connection Diagnostics
This Document was designed to give
technicians step by step instructions to use
when diagnosing an Electronic service tool
connection issue.
This Document will take you through the main
connection problems that technicians run into.
It is not intended to be an end all diagnostic
guide as there are many specific truck and
equipment manufacturer issues that may
arise which would have to be dealt with on an
individual basis.
1. Is the key on while trying to communicate? Make sure there are no battery cutoff switches in the OFF
positions.
No Turn key on, Still can’t connect continue to
step 2.
Yes Go to step 2
2. Are there multiple diagnostic ports on the vehicle/equipment?
No Go to step 3
Yes Try connecting to each diagnostic port
Separately, If you still cannot connect
3. Does the power light illuminate on your communication adapter when plugged into the diagnostic port?
Yes Go to step 4
No Go to step 5
4. Make sure that the correct adapter you are using (NEXIQ, DREWLINK, DPA5) is selected in the software you
are using. Somewhere in your software there will be a communication adapter tab or box to pick the data-
link adapter that you are using, usually under tools or settings.
**Some adapters will not automatically choose which datalink it will be reading on IE 1939/1708. If your
software has an option to change the datalink protocol, then try each protocol before proceeding.
**If you are using a Bluetooth adapter make sure you choose the adapter option with Bluetooth. If you are
using a corded adapter do not choose the option with Bluetooth.
Examples:
Is the adapter you are using listed and chosen?
Yes Go to step 7
No, adapter not listed Go to step 6
No, adapter not chosen Choose correct adapter and retry, If you still
cannot connect Proceed to Step7
5. No power light on the communication adapter indicates the equipment is not sending power to
the adapter to power up. You must identify which datalink connector is on the vehicle/
equipment and verify power and ground at the diagnostic connector.
(CONTINUE ON NEXT PAGE)
For 9 Pin connectors: Check for Battery voltage 12v between pins A and B
For 6 Pin connectors: Check for battery voltage 12v between pins C and E
For Standard Obd2 Connections: Check for battery voltage 12v at pins 16 and 4,5.
Resolution
If you have verified that you have 12v at the diagnostic connector and your adapter still does
not power on, your adapter or the cable from the adapter to the diagnostic connector is bad.
Swap cables with another adapter or try another adapter.
If You do not have 12v at the Diagnostic connector you will need to check your fuses. Look
for any fuses marked Diagnostic , Datalink, or any other fuses that could be going to the di-
agnostic connector. *Sometimes the diagnostic fuse is tied in with another fuse and not la-
beled so it is best to check all fuses. The fuse boxes will normally be located in the cab of the
vehicle behind kick panels or dash panels. Check all battery connections at the batteries,
starter, and alternator for tight connections. As well as any fuses in the battery box. There
also may be a cab ground connection on the firewall inside and outside the cab. Verify Good
connections of your ground circuits at these points.
6. Your software is not recognizing the drivers for your datalink adapter. You will have to download
and install the drivers from the internet or from a cd. Each device will have a different way to
install these, but you should be able to get the drivers from the website of the datalink adapter
you are using. You will need to go to the download section and download the drivers for the de-
vice you are using, and then install them once downloaded.
For nexiq adapters: www.nexiq.com
Drewlink adapter: www.drewtech.com
DPa5 adapter: www.dgtech.com
Noregon DLA+ adapter: http://www.noregon.com
7. Are you using a Bluetooth adapter and using it wirelessly or using a usb cable to your adapter?
Bluetooth wireless Go to step 7a
USB Cord Go to step 8
7a. If using a Bluetooth adapter, we need to make sure windows is connecting to the adapter
via Bluetooth.
WINDOWS 10
Click the small arrow on the bottom right hand corner of the screen which will bring up a box. Then click
the Bluetooth icon.
(continued on next Page)
This will pull up a menu, click show Bluetooth devices.
This will pull up a page where you can verify if your adapter is connected under devices. If your
device is not listed, then you will need to ADD Device at the top of the screen with your adapter
plugged in to a vehicle so that it is powered up. And then go through the prompts until your
device is connected.
WINDOWS 7
-Click the windows icon (start) menu in the lower left-hand corner of you screen. This will pull
up the start menu.
-Click on Devices and printers. You should see the Bluetooth adapter under the devices area of
the screen.
-If not, you will need to click the ADD a Device button at the top of the screen and follow the
prompts to add your device.
(If your Bluetooth adapter is showing and connected under devices and you still cannot con-
nect continue to step 8.)
8. FOR 9 PIN DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTORS:
We are now going to check our 1939 and 1708 datalinks. These datalink wires are a twisted pair of
wires that transmit data so the Communication adapter can pick it up and read the various Modules on
the truck.
First, we will check the 1939 datalink. This is the most common datalink on newer 04+ trucks.
We will be performing our checks on the diagnostic connector on the truck/equipment. TURN THE
KEY TO THE ON POSITION ENGINE OFF. Set your multimeter to DC Voltage and Check from pin A to pin
C on the diagnostic connector. This voltage should be around 2.5V, we will not get exactly 2.5v here.
Anywhere from 2.0v to 3.5v can be normal.
Now we will check the same thing from pin A to Pin D. We should also see around 2.5v but it will not be
exact. When both of our readings are added together they should roughly equal 5v. Anywhere from
4.5v to 5.5v is normal when both readings are added together.
0v reading on either pin A or pin C Open wire in the datalink or you have a short to
ground on that datalink wire
0v reading on both pins Short in your wiring or a Module is internally
shorting the datalink
Readings are not 0v but out of range More than likely you have a module disrupting
the datalink or your Datalink resistors are incor-
Readings are correct Go to 1939 resistance check
1939 Datalink resistance check.
Perform this test with the key in the off position. **If the unit you are working on has a vehicle or
body controller. You may need to unhook the batteries to get the correct reading**
To perform the resistance check we will measure resistance from PIN D to PIN C of the diagnostic con-
nector. We should expect to see anywhere from 55-65 ohms at this point.
OL or high resistance >120 ohms Break in datalink wiring
Approximately 120 ohms Missing terminating resistor or break in wiring
Less than 55 ohms Module shorting datalink or extra resistor in-
stalled.
Approximately 60 ohms Resistance checks good, Perform 1708 voltage
check
1708 Voltage checks
We will now check our 1708 datalink voltages.
With the key on engine off, measure from pin F to pin A (9 pin connector) or E to Pin A (6
pin connector). You should get a measurement approximately 4volts. This reading again
will not be exact as in the 1939 datalink reading. Anywhere from 3.5 to 4.5 volts would indi-
cate a working datalink.
Now check pin G to pin A (9 pin connector) or E to Pin B (6 pin connector), we should see
approximately 1v on this pin.
Again, these two datalink readings should equal to approximately 5v when added.
0v on either pin Open circuit or short to ground in wiring
0v on both pins Shorted module or datalink wiring
Readings not 0v but out of range Module incorrectly transmitting on datalink
If all datalink checks are good and you have power and ground to your communication
adapter.
**BEFORE Continuing it is advised that you try to hook up to another truck to make sure that
your software and adapter are DEFINITLY working correctly** If you are certain that the
software you are using is compatible with the Module you are trying to connect to then ei-
ther the datalink is open circuit at the module or the module you are trying to connect to is
not powering up. If the module is not powered up it will not communicate on the datalink.
You must check power and ground connections at the batteries. Check all fuses and relays
for the associated modules. If the fuses and relays all have power then you will need to go
directly to the module you are trying to hook up to and check power and ground and data-
link circuits directly at the module connector. You should have 12v on each battery circuit
and ignition circuit, A good ground connection on ground circuits, And for 1939 ~2.5v on
each datalink wire. And for 1708 you should have 1v and 4v on each datalink wire.
