Introduction:

Whether maintained alone or in groups, rabbits are fascinating monogastric creatures that can
bring a great deal of pleasure. In the tropics, keeping rabbits is commonly done for two
reasons: as a source of food and as a means of revenue. Research and companionship (for a
pet) are additional motives.
Benefits of Rabbit Production
1. Capital requirement is minimal. With some scrap wood or bamboo, a hutch can be
constructed.
2. Spacing is minimal. It can be set up at backyard.
3. A rabbit is a convenient ‘one meal size’, thus forestalling the need for storage.
4. Rabbit keeping is not limited by any social or religious taboo. It is acceptable.
5. Feeding rabbits is very cheap. Even though supplementation with concentrate or grain
is sometimes necessary and definitely will increase growth rate, roadside grass,
kitchen offal, garden leaves, etc (feed of no direct value to humans). can provide the
main feed at almost no cost.
6. Rabbits can be tended by women, children or men unlike bigger animals for it needs
no force to be restrained.
7. Because they produce offspring regularly (gestation period of 28 – 32 days), they
form a regular source of income instead of a large amount at once.
8. It matures for table between 5-6 months, breeding (5 – 7 months)
9. Rabbit is a prolific animal. They can kindle 6 -7 times in a year.
10. Meat from rabbit is an all-white meat product that is high in protein (16-18% crude
protein) and low in fat, sodium and cholesterol as compared to other common meats,
such as beef, lamb, pork and poultry. Rabbit meat has been recommended for years by
some physicians to their patients with coronary heart conditions.
11. It is not a smelly or noisy animal and can easily be kept near school buildings or
people’s houses.
12. It produces rich manure for gardening, flower beds, pasture and crop production.
13. They are used as laboratory animals for research purposes.
14. Rabbit meat is a good source of calcium, iron and phosphorus.
15. Rabbits are hardy and well adapted to the environment
16. Efficiency of feed utilization is high.
17. Rabbit also gives useful by-product like the fur which is useful for making cardigans
18. Rabbit is a suitable animal for learning basic skills for animal husbandry; it responds
to careful handling but can withstand the sometimes-rough handling of the beginner.
It also lends itself to simple recordkeeping e.g of weekly live weight gain and
reproduction and so can introduce the idea of management recording to new
students of animal production.
Constraints of rabbit keeping in Nigeria
1) Rabbits are highly vulnerable to prey like how persistent a dog can be when trying to
break into a rabbit hutch. This constitutes a challenge to the farmer.
2) Rabbit production is not easy it takes a great deal of skill, a lot of hard work and
a lot of food.
3). Most people are not ready for rabbit production that demand daily care and attention
and many don’t see the reasons for keeping the rabbits anyway.
4). Most people are not aware of the skills needed in rabbit production.
5). Unavailability of improved parent stock that are adaptable to our local conditions.
6). Inbreeding depression is also a common problem in Rabbit production.
BREEDS OF RABBIT
Rabbit breeds can be divided into two for practical purpose without trying to make
scientifically correct distinctions:

1. Fancy and Fur breeds

These are not necessarily good meat producers; they do not have large litters nor are they
resistant to diseases. They have nice skins, nice colours, funny ears etc. example is Angora

2. Meat breeds
These are also called utility breeds, either by a fast growth rate or large and frequent litters.
It is necessary to make a further distinction based on weight.

Dwarf breeds – 1.5kg below e.g Polish

Light breeds (up to 2-3kg adult weight) e.g Dutch
Medium breeds (3-5kg) e.g NewZealand, Californian,
Heavy breeds (>5kg) e.g Flemish giant

Choosing a breed: Acceptability, Adaptability, Resistance to disease, Reproductive

potential and Pedigree.
BREEDS OF RABBIT
Dutch: New Zealand New Zealand Red: Chinchilla: Californian: Flemish Giant:
White:

The dutch is a small This breed is used This is essentially red This breed is blue- This is the second The weight range for
breed with a mature most widely but has not been grey in colour with a most popular breed the mature Flemish
live weight of 2-3kg. throughout the world intensively selected white belly. There is for meat production. Giant is 5-
It has a wide white for meat production. for growth rate. a thick fold of skin The colour is all 11.3kg. It has short
band of fur around its It is all white in Mature live weight is around the front of white but with black fur and erect ears.
body at the shoulders colour and usually 3-4.5kg. Short fur the chest which is tipping on the nose,
as well as a white weighs 3-5kg when with erect ears very obvious when ears, feet and tail.
stripe down the mature. Short fur the rabbit is in good The weight range for
middle of its face. type with erect ears. condition and sitting the mature
Fur type is short in a resting position. Californian is 3-
The weight range for 4.5kg. Short fur, red
the mature Chinchilla eyes and erect ears.
is 3-4.5kg. It has
short fur and erect
ears.
Polish: Angora American Fozzy Cashmere Lop: English Lop: Lionhead
Lop

The Polish is a small This breed is used This is essentially a This breed has over English Lop is a The Lionhead rabbit
breed with a mature most widely small breed that 35 variant fancy breed that was has a wool mane
live weight of 1.1- throughout the world weighs between 1.6 – colours/pattern. It is developed in England encircling the head,
1.6kg. The colour for fancy and fur 1.8kg. It has long fur essentially a fur type through selective reminiscent of a
ranges from black, production. It weighs with lop ears. with lop ears. breeding. Weighing male lion. Other
blue, blue-eyed between 2.0–5.5 kg. The weight range for between 4.5 - 5.5 kg, Lionhead
white, broken, It is either coloured the mature Cashmere the English Lop is characteristics
chocolate, red-eyed or albino with erect lop is 1.9-2.5kg. characterised by its include a high head
white. Fur type is ears and long furs.. distinctively long lop mount, compact
short with erect ears. ears, bold head, and upright body type,
large body size. well-furred erect
ears, and a weight of
1.3 – 1.7kg.

There are over 40 recognized breeds of domesticated rabbit in the world.

HOUSING AND EQUIPMENT
Different countries have different housing and equipment for rabbits. Several factors
influence their design, including;
1. Climate
2. Raw materials (Availability, durability and cost)
3. Scale (large or medium) and system of production (Intensive, Extensive or semi-intensive)
4. Expertise of the rabbit production

Housing requirement: Housing should be able to provide:

Adequate space: Adequate space is required because rabbits live their entire lives in hutches.
This will help prevent the stress that comes from being confined and restriction of movement.
Space should be able to provide good ventilation to prevent the animal from being choked up
by ammonia (NH3) from their urine.
Protection: Housing must be able to protect the rabbits from outside elements such rain,
sunlight, direct and indirect wind, and predators like dogs, cats, rats, safari ants, and humans.
Convenience to the rabbit keeper
The housing should be constructed to make it easier for the keeper to perform daily tasks
such as observation, examination, handling, feeding, mating the rabbits, cleaning, and
disinfection. Also, there should be room for expansion when the number multiplies.
TYPES OF CAGES/ HUTCHES
Basically, there are two types of housing, these are: Outdoor hutches and indoor hutches.
Outdoor hutches - kept outside all the time;
Indoor hutches - kept inside a house (stable) or open shed.
Indoor hutches: These are kept inside a house (stable). The stable is a place in which or
under which the hutches are placed. The hutches within the house can be much simpler than
outdoor hutches and simple boxes made from wired frames can be used. These can be hung
in a number of ways.
Indoor hutches are appropriate for the established keeper with good markets to justify the
expenses in setting them up.
Advantages:
I. It provides good conditions for the rabbit and the rabbit keeper
II. Easy access to animal (even when there is rain or high sunlight)
III. For animal adequate protection from predators
IV. The individual hutch can be easily cleaned and disinfected
V. It allows ease for increase in production
Disadvantage:
It is very expensive
Outdoor hutches:
Kept inside a house (stable) or open shed.
Advantages:
- It requires low capital, Materials are always available, Appropriate when starting production
Disadvantages:
- No perfect protection against predator
- Difficult to clean
- Not easy to increase the number of hutches quickly (it limits production)
Regardless of whether the hutches are kept inside or outside, the requirements of space,
protection and ease of management can be achieved through appropriate design, construction
and siting.

Design: A typical rabbit hutch dimensions are follows;

 1m above the ground
 Height of hutch: 60cm at the front, 50cm at the back for easy drainage
 Width: 50-60cm
 Length: 90-120cm.
Construction: The materials used in construction would usually be locally available
materials such as interwoven branches, split bamboo, mud, tin, plastic. If possible, a fence
should be built around outdoor hutches and fitted with a padlock gate.
Siting: Common aspects of the siting include the following;
a. It should be placed near a house wall / fence to provide shade and protection (from
sunlight, rain and wind). Note that while too much sunlight may be stressful, too little
is also undesirable because the hutch may become damp, there will also be reduced
disinfection by the sun’s ultraviolet rays, and Vitamin D synthesis by the rabbit may
be impaired if it does not experience some direct sunlight.
b. It is important to site hutches under trees in a very hot environment
c. The site must ensure security against predation. This is achieved when hutches are
kept near keeper’s house.

Floor Method: This involves keeping the rabbits on the ground in a fenced area provided
with simple boxes for shelter. In this system several does are kept in the same area. This
method is particularly suited to very dry areas and or where producers cannot obtain or afford
the materials to build proper hutches. In this method one of the most important requirement is
to keep the floor dry. An alternative method is to make a deep layer of dried straw, rice husks
or wood shavings. Mud or wooden shelters that can be secured at night can be constructed to
provide protection from predators. Rabbits may be allowed to burrow in floor system and
may rear their young in these burrows, but kindling boxes are preferable. Bucks should be
kept separate from the does and young rabbits unless there is plenty of space. To avoid
fighting between does provide enough space at least 1 m2 per doe. For floor methods to be
successful, observe strict hygiene and avoid overcrowding.
HOUSING EQUIPMENT
These are
1. Water trough
2. Feeder
3. Kindling (nest) box
4. Forage / Roughage rack

Water/Feeding Trough
The materials for water/feeding trough should provide the following;
a. It should be impossible to tip over
b. Deep enough to discourage scratching out of contents
c. It must not cause injury to the rabbit
d. It should not be expensive to prevent increase in cost of production
Roughage / Forage rack (it can be fitted inside or outside of the hutch)
a. It must not limit feed intake
b. It must contain fresh succulent forage

Nest boxes
This can be open or closed. An open top 12" x 18" x 10" plywood box works well. This
comes in when the animal is about to kindle.
a. It should not be placed until the animal is about to kindle
b. It should be draught free/ proof
c. It should prevent the young rabbits leaving until they are at least 2-3 weeks old.

MAINTENANCE OF EQUIPMENT
1. Water and feeding trough must be washed regularly (daily)
2. Use clean rag (cloth to dry the feeder)
3. Disinfection of the water and feeding trough at least once in a week with EDTA or Izal to
remove feed adhered to feeder and prevent disease outbreak.
4. Roughage rack and cage must be cleaned once in a week and disinfect when young ones
are not there.
5. Checking for the development of sharp edges in hutches and on equipment which may
cause injury.
6. Nest box must be removed after weaning (5-6 weeks), wash and disinfect in preparation
for next breeding season.

NUTRITION AND FEEDING

The digestive system and nutrient utilization
Mouth and teeth
The incisors are for cutting and the premolars and molars are for grinding. The front surface
of the incisors has a thick layer of enamel which forms a sharp edge at the cutting point of the
teeth. The incisors are said to be upon rooted, meaning that they continue to grow throughout
the rabbit’s life as they are worn down by chewing. The food is mixed with saliva as it is
ground by the molars to reduce its particle size. After this first processing period the food is
swallowed and passes down the oesophagus to the stomach.
Stomach and small intestine
The stomach represents about 40% of the total volume of the digestive system. Food in the
stomach is exposed to acidity and some enzyme digestion begins. Weak muscular
contractions in the stomach push the food in to the first loop of the small intestine, the
duodenum. The food is first bathed in bile which enters via the bile duct. Bile is produced in
the liver and is stored in the gall bladder. The bile salts assist in the digestion of the fats in the
food. As the food passes further along the duodenum it is mixed with enzymes produced in
the pancreas and which enter via the pancreatic duct. Enzyme digestion is rapid and food
proteins are broken down to amino-acids which are absorbed through the intestinal wall into
the blood system. Fatty acids, glycerol, glucose and other simple sugars are the end products
of fat and carbohydrate digestion and these are also absorbed as the food passes along the
small intestine.
Proper feeding will influence the rabbit’s growth, fertility and health. Some feedstuffs contain
a lot of protein; some are sources of energy (rice bran, tubers, etc). Protein and energy as well
as minerals are of importance. It should be noted that the amount of feed to give a rabbit
depends very much on the state of production.
Caecum and large intestine
The rabbit is sometimes referred to as hind-gut fermenter, meaning that food is broken down
by bacteria at the end of the digestive system. The major site of this breakdown is the
caecum. The large caecum has absorbing and secretory cells throughout its large area. The
caecum contains many bacteria that grow and multiply on the partly- digested food. These
bacteria are very important because the synthesize B vitamins, particularly thiamin, and
because they breakdown plant fibre. The breakdown results in the production of acetic,
proprionic and butyric fatty acids, which are absorbed from the caecum and large intestines
and used as sources of energy by the rabbit. The rabbit produces two types of faecal pellet,
one soft type containing many bacteria which is re-eaten, and one that is hard and passed out
in the normal way. Water is reabsorbed throughout the caecum and large intestine. This
results in the relatively hard, dry faecal pellets which are characteristic of rabbit faeces.
From the above it is clear that the function of the digestive system is to transform the digested
food to chemical, physical and biological processes in such away that the organism can use
the nutrient of the food for maintenance, growth and reproduction. The digestive system of
the rabbit is well adapted for the utilization of roughages and feed of plant origin. The
digestive system occupies the large portion of the body cavity. The development of the
digestive system is almost completed at 9 weeks of age, the caecum and the colon start to
develop around 3-5 weeks of age when feed ingestion other than milk start to be significant
and a micro floral population becomes important in those organs. The size of different part of
the digestive system varies with age, breed, physiological status and type of feeds given to
the rabbit. The amount of time the feed stays in the digestive system affects the time of
enzyme and micro-organism activity. This time is 17-18 hrs. The longest retention time occur
in the stomach and in the caecum. Retention time in the small intestine is relatively low.

COPROPHAGY / CAECOTROPHY
This is the eating of faecal-like pellets produced in the caecum. These caecal pellets are
sometimes called soft faeces. To do this, the rabbit sucks in the soft faeces as they emerge
from the anus, then swallow without chewing. Consumption of the soft faeces starts when the
rabbit is about 4 weeks old. Note that rabbit can survive without practicing caecotrophy for
many days but death is usual if they are prevented from eating their soft faeces for several
months. Soft faeces are higher in crude protein and lower in crude fibre than hard faeces.
Their higher protein level is due to their content of bacteria. Caecotrophy is a very important
part of the rabbit’s digestive processes. It recycles some unabsorbed nutrients as well as
returning protein and vitamin B rich bacteria for enzyme digestion in the small intestine.
Nutrient requirement of rabbits
The domestic rabbit will eat most type of green vegetables, grain, tuber and root. Therefore,
the ration may consist almost entirely of ingredients from plant sources. Kitchen wastes such
as uncooked vegetables, cereals and remain of meals can be fed to rabbits provided certain
rules are followed:

 The waste must be fed when fresh and agreeable (not soured).
 It must be removed after a few hours if it is not eaten.
 It should represent less than half of the rabbit’s daily ration.

Protein level
The protein level of the feed is very important. For efficient rabbit feeding, you need four
diets. Since most rabbit producers cannot (or do not want to) handle more than one feed, a
16-17% protein feed may be substituted.

Protein Requirements of Rabbits

Weaners - 18% CP
Growers - 15-16% CP
Pregnant - 18% CP
Lactating - 18% CP

Carbohydrates and Fats

Carbohydrate and fats provide energy. Rabbit needs energy for contraction of muscles which
enable the rabbit to move. It is also used to join substance together to build up the rabbit’s
body and to make products such as hair and milk. Rabbit adjusts their food intake to satisfy
their energy requirements. A general recommendation of energy requirement for breeding
rabbits is 2600-2700 Kcal DE/kgDM.
Weaner – 2700Kcal/kg,
Grower – 2500Kcal/kg,
Pregnant – 2400 Kcal/kg,
Lactating 2600Kcal/kg

Minerals
Most of the minerals in the rabbit’s body are in the bones and teeth which contain large
amounts of the two minerals; Calcium (Ca) and Phosphorus (P). These minerals help to give
the bones their hardness. They are also involved in maintaining the acid-alkaline balance in
the blood. Phosphorus also involves in energy transfer within the body cells. Ca, P and
Vitamin D are often considered together because they interact with each other. Other
minerals are Mg, Na, K and Cl (major minerals). Examples of trace minerals are Fe, Cu, S,
Co, Zn, etc.

Vitamins
Vitamins are chemical that are require in very small amount to speed up chemical reactions
within the rabbit body. The most important vitamins are vitamins A and D and the B
vitamins, choline and Thiamin.
Feed Consumption
The quantities of feed for total daily consumption for all animals are as follows;
*Young fattening rabbits (4-11 weeks) - 110-130g
* Lactating does with litters (weaning at 4 weeks): - 350-380g
* Adult (maintenance) rabbits: - 120g
* For the rabbitry as a whole: - from 1 to 1.4kg of feed per mother cage per day

FEEDING SYSTEM
These are:
Extensive system: total dependence on forages and kitchen wastes.
Advantages
- Cheap and Easy to provide the quantity of food required
Disadvantages
- Forage availability varies with season
- The quality of the forage reduces during dry season
- It is labour intensive
- It can introduce diseases and health problems
Intensive system; Total dependence on prepared concentrate foods from the feedmill.
Advantages
- High levels of production
- Little risk of disease introduction
Disadvantages
- Very costly
- Depends on the feed miller (in terms of availability and quality)
Semi-intensive system: The use of forages supplemented with prepared concentrate foods. It
falls between the extensive and intensive system in terms of advantage and disadvantages. It
is also the system that is most suitable for the small-scale producer.
Types of feed
Aside balanced pelleted feed which contains 3-35g DM per kg of live weight per day given to
the rabbit, the following wild and cultivated plants are suitable for rabbit feed: Amaranthus
spp., Mimosa pigra, Arachis hypogea, Panicum maximum, Cocos nucifera, Daucus carota,
Ipomea batatas, Leucaena leucocephala, Tridax procumbens, Sorghum vulgare, Vigna
sinensis, Zea mays, Solanum tuberosum
SEXING OF RABBIT
Determining the sex of rabbits is not difficult with a little practice. It can be carried out
shortly after weaning at six to eight weeks. This is the time when the males and females
should be separated, the rabbit should be held on its back, put one finger on the tail side of
the genital opening and on the abdominal side. Press down gently and stretch the organ with
the finger and thumb. If it is a doe, a long slit will appear, if it is a buck, a small rounded
tube-like structure will show. V shape = female, O shape = Male.
REPRODUCTION
The male
The proper age for the first mating depends on the breed and individual development. For
small breeds it is 4-5 months, for large breeds 9-12 months. One male can easily handle up to
8 - 10 does. It is good practice to keep the male hutch at some distance from the females so
they will not get accustomed to each other’s smell.
The female
The does require more care and attention. Like the males, the proper age of first mating
depends on the bred and individual development. Mate does when they reach maturity (4-5
months for the lighter breed, 7-9 months for the heavy breeds).

Buying Breeder Stock

Once buildings are built or renovated and equipment purchased, you should purchase a good
breeding stock. Remember, poor breeding stock will produce poor offspring. It is important
that you begin with good stock. The price a breeder asks for stock does not reflect the quality
of the rabbits. Only time, records, and results can prove the worth of breeding stock and the
reputation of the breeder. Look at the records of the breeder's rabbitry to see the quality of the
stock. Here are a few things you should look for:
1. Good health (Alertness, body conformation, eye colours, respiration, ears, nostril, feet, etc)
2. Average litter size (8 or more)
3. Death rate (not over 5%)
4. Percent conception (90% or better)
5. Dressing percentage (55-60% including heart, liver and kidneys)
6. Select rabbit based on the feeding style/system.
7. Males should be checked to confirm that each has two testicles in its scrotum.

MATING
Experience reveals that mating is most successful in the morning or evening. Avoiding the
warmest times of the day for this crucial operation is undoubtedly advised. For mating,
always take the doe to the buck’s cage. If they fail to mate a few minutes, take her to a
different buck. If this fails, try again the next day but do not leave the doe with the buck all
day or even an hour in an attempt to solve a mating problem. If the does is ready to be mated
she will stand still within a few seconds, stretch out and slightly raise her hindquarter so as to
allow the buck to mount and mate. Successful mating is signalled by the buck thrusting
forward and literally falling off the doe. Often the buck makes a characteristic cry of pain or
joy. If the buck slides backwards off the doe and does not fall the mating has not taken place.
If mating was successful put the doe back in her hutch.

PREGNANCY TEST
Palpating
Palpating is a method used for determining doe pregnancy at 14 days after mating. Non-
pregnant does are re-bred immediately. The objective is to feel the developing embryos in the
horns of the doe’s uterus. Position the doe lying relaxed, feet down, facing you. Grasp the
ears and a fold of skin from the shoulders (scruff) with one hand. Place your other hand the
body between the hind legs and just in front of the pelvis. Place your thumb on one side and
forefinger on the other side of the uterine horns. Be careful not to apply a lot of pressure; just
slide your fingers along and the embryos should slide gently between the thumb and
forefinger. Does that have been handled often are much easier to palpate. Do not attempt
palpation unless the doe is calm or you may damage the embryos.
Late pregnancy test
Inexperience keepers should practice detecting pregnancy on does that are 20 days pregnant
at which stage the foetuses are easy to identify. By around 28 days the mammary gland will
have developed significantly and this can be regarded as final confirmation of pregnancy. At
around 29 days, the doe will begin to remove fur from her abdomen to make a nest.
Pseudo-Pregnancy Test
False pregnancy occurs as a result of sterile mating or more commonly from stimulation of
one doe riding another. It happens more frequently with does that have not kindled their first
litter. Always separate does at least a month prior to breeding. Does must be separated at least
18-20 days before mating. The doe may pull fur and attempt to make a nest but she will not
keep it clean.
Other method of pregnancy test includes scanning, blood and urine test etc.
It is important to note that rabbits are post-coetal ovulators i.e ovulation takes place after
copulation.

KINDLING AND MOTHER CARE

When the doe is almost ready for kindling (about 4 weeks after mating) you can put a nest
box in the hutch. Place some wood shaving of fine straw placed on the floor of the box.
Kindling can take place in this nest box at any time of the day but early morning and night
early seems to be the most popular times. Once kindling has finished the doe will pluck more
fur from her abdomen and cover the young rabbits. It is best to leave her undisturbed for 2-3
days after kindling unless there are obvious problems. It is a good practice to have some
cotton wool ready to cover the litter if the doe has not done this properly herself

Fostering
Fostering means getting a doe to accept rabbit(s) from another litter. Guidelines for carrying
out fostering are as follows:
 Mate does on the same day
 The litters involved should be born within 3-4 days of each other.
 Only foster rabbits that are less than five days old.
 Remove both the foster doe and the donor doe from their hutches.
 Carefully remove the rabbits to be fostered from their nest with the minimum of
disturbance and without touching any of the rabbis that are not being fostered; return the
donor doe.
 Introduce the rabbits to be fostered, disturbing the foster nest as little as possible.
 Leave the newly mixed rabbits for a few hours so that they all take on the same smell
 Return the recipient doe to the hutch while at the same time giving her some food which
you know she likes.
Weaning
Weaning is the separation of the doe and the young. This usually takes place between 5-6
weeks. The best method of weaning is to take the doe away from the litter. To do it the other
way round will put too much stress on the litter. The period after weaning is another critical
time for the young rabbits and it is a time for feeding some concentrates if available. Small
amounts of concentrate at this time will have a big effect on growth rate. The doe should be
given time to regain her physical condition after weaning before re-mating. The doe should
typically rest for at least four weeks, though much may depend on the degree of feeding.
Does can usually continue breeding until they are 3 to 4 years old.

Cannibalism or Abortion
Cannibalism and abortion are common problems. The causes are many and mostly
undependable. These are some of the causes:
1. First-litter does are extremely nervous. Give them one more chance and then cull if
cannibalism recurs.
2. Unbalanced diet
3. Lack of water
4. Predators can cause the doe to stamp her feet and mash the young
5. Unusual noise can cause the doe to injure the young and can result in cannibalism.
6. Moving nest box after young are kindled.
7. Shallow nest box makes the does feel insecure and she is easily disturbed.

Cause of kitten mortality

1. Abandonment by mother:
If the young kittens are touched with hand, the mother usually abandons such
―contaminated‖ KITTENS. When young ones have been born on the cage or have fallen
down, they could be removed with the aid of newspaper or blunt-ended flat boards.
2. Cats, Dogs and Ants
A rabbit keeper may forget to place a nest box in the hutch just before a doe kindles. If the
young ones are born on the wire, they can wriggle through the holes and drop on the floor
below to be killed by cold or be eaten by cats, dogs or soldier ant. If the floor is made of
weak wire, dogs might tear the wire and eat up the kittens.
3 Frights
Pregnant does might become frightened by a crowd of people or by dogs, cats, rats etc. trying
to catch them in their hutches. They run about in their cages and nervous tension may lead to
abortion and death of the new born kittens already in nesting boxes.
4. Cuts and strangulation between the wire mesh. Apart from cuts, strangulation between
wires can also cause death.
5. Poor Nutrition of the doe.
Young ones born through poor nutrition status usually die shortly after birth because they are
too weak to live, Nutritional deficiencies can impair the proper development of the foetus, In
order to meet her diet deficiency, the mother may eat up her kittens. Such cannibalism is,
however, not common. Cannibalism could be prevented if the protein requirements of the doe
is met through the diet
Handling of Rabbits and Husbandry Skills
Handling:
 Rabbits should be handled gently. They must never be lifted by their ears.
 A rabbit can always be picked up by the skin of the shoulders.
 For rabbits weighing less than 1kg, one method is to pick them up and carry them by
the saddle just above the hindquarters, using thumb and index finger
 If the rabbit is heavier, it is best to take it by the skin fold around the shoulders, but if
it has to be transported or shifted for more than 5 or 10minutes, it either be supported
with the other hand or be carried on the forearm with the head in the bend of the
elbow
 If it struggles and cannot be controlled, it is best to just drop it so it will fall on all
fours and then pick it up again within 2-3seconds.
Husbandry Skill
 Observation
 Examination
 Weighing (Pan scale or spring Balance)
 Nail Trimming
 Identification (Writing in the ear, Labels, Ear-nothing)

RECORD KEEPING
The only way you can know how well you are doing in the rabbit business is to keep good
records. If you keep good records then you can make sound management and business
decisions. Good records let you know if you are making a profit, and they are necessary for
income tax purposes.
Keep only necessary records. You can easily overburden yourself with record keeping.
Decide what records you need and then keep them daily. Listed below are some basic records
you need to keep:
1. Breeding records - date bred and buck used
2. Kindling dates and number born, dead and alive
3. Number and weight of weaned rabbits
4. Average weight at market time and age of fryers at that weight
5. Expenditures (including utilities)
6. Sales
You should design your own record cards to meet your needs.

An example of Doe record

Doe Name/Number:________________________ Date of Birth: __________________
Date Buck used Date Number of Date Number Notes
mated kindled born weaned weaned
alive/dead
KILLING AND PROCESSING
Requirement for slaughter and processing
 A generally clean place away from any obvious source of flies or dogs. Something
from which to hang the rabbit whilst cleaning it e.g. a branch or a specially placed
pole or set of hooks.
 A sharp knife
 A bowl or source of clean water.
 A container for the blood and guts and anything that is being kept
 separate from the meat.
 A clean container with cover for the rabbit carcass.
 Some string or thin wire
 A skin drying frame
 A stick the thickness of a pencil smoothly rounded at one end.

Steps involve in converting life rabbit to meat

1. Fasting/Starvation
2. Stunning
3. Direct Method (Bleeding, Neck Breaking)
4. Defurring (Scalding, Flaming/Singeing)
5. Skinning
6. Evisceration
7. Cutting/Jointing and
8. Packaging

RABBIT HEALTH AND DISEASE

Signs of a healthy rabbit
To understand the diseased rabbit, you should know a healthy one very well through the signs
of a healthy rabbit and this include:
Normal eating and drinking, self –grooming, alertness, interest and curiosity, shiny, smooth,
lean fur, especially on the front paws and around the anus, a normal temperature of 37ºC-
39.5ºC, normal silent breathing (40-65 breath per minute), clear bright eyes without
discharge, clear nostrils without discharge, normal caecotrophy, no soft faeces on the hutch
floor, gaining weight or, if an adult maintaining its weight.

Conditions that make a rabbit susceptible to disease include

Insufficient water, Insufficient food, Toxic or poisonous food, An unbalanced diet deficient,
in energy, protein, minerals or vitamins, High fibre-only foods that can cause the rabbit to
‘blow-up’ like a ball; Sour dirty foods that cause diarrhoea, Dirty hutches and badly
ventilated hutches that promote an increase in the number of disease organisms.

Stress
Stress is any challenge to any system of the rabbit for example its temperature control system,
its digestive system, its normal behaviour pattern. Pregnancy, giving birth, lactation, weaning
and mating are all periods of natural and unavoidable stress.

How to minimize major stresses

Correct hutch design-windproof and waterproof, Correct placement of the hutch; Routine
management steps to avoid heat stress; Avoidance of overcrowding in hutches; Exclusion of
dogs, snakes and noisy visitors; An adequate well balanced diet; Overall good management,
particularly ensuring clean dry floors and sufficient bedding.
 RABBIT DISEASES

Disease Cause Symptoms Prevention Treatment

Abscesses Bacterial infection. Enlargements under skin near jaw. Can occur Minimize fighting. Eliminate sharp Clip the fur around abscess, then lance and remove
on other parts of body where there are objects that can injure the rabbit. the pus. Disinfect with peroxide and use an approved
wounds or scratches. antibiotic ointment or powder to promote healing.

Caked Milk production is in excess of utilization. One or more of the mammary glands may Reduce ration by one-half the day Relieve some congestion by partial milking. Massage
Mammary Too few young or the young are not become swollen, hot and firm. Often the doe kindles and gradually gland with an antiinflammatory ointment.
Gland nursing. mistaken for mastitis. increase to full feed in 7 days.

Coccidiosis Five different species of protozoa (one Affects primarily young rabbits. In severe Keep pens clean and prevent fecal Sulfaquinoxaline in food or drinking water
celled animals) can injure the bile ducts, cases, symptoms are diarrhea, loss of flesh, contamination of feed and water. continuously for 2-weeks.
intestines or cecum. pot belly, loss of appetite, rough fur coat. Use wire floor pens.

Conjunctivitis Inflammation of eye lid. Can result Excessive tear formation and fluid runs down Minimize sources (dust, dirt) of Use a commercial eye-washing product to remove
“Weepy Eye” from irritation by dust, sprays, fumes or cheek. Rabbit rubs eyes with its front feet irritation. Remove chronically dust, dirt or other foreign object. If inflammation
by bacterial infection. which further aggravates the condition. affected rabbits. persists, an ophthalmic ointment containing
Rabbits with snuffles frequently have "weepy antibiotics may be helpful.
eye".

Ear Canker Ear mite Scabs or a crust start forming at base of inner Do not let unaffected rabbits in Use a cotton swab to apply mineral, vegetable or
ear. Mites cause considerable irritation and contact with rabbits that have ear olive oil over all visible crust. Usually one or two
rabbit will shake its head and try to scratch canker. treatments is sufficient.
ears with hind feet.

Enteritis: Likely caused by coccidiosis or other A watery diarrhea may be only symptom. Develop a program to control Keep rabbits comfortable and encourage feed
Diarrhea intestinal inflammation. In young rabbits coccidiosis. Do not feed "greens" to consumption. A medicated or vitamin fortified feed
excessive "greens" will cause diarrhea rabbits. may be helpful.

Mucoid Thought to result from an irritant, a toxin Characterized by sub-normal body Prevent or reduce stress factors and No successful treatment known, but mortality may be
or other stress factors such as dietary temperature, loss of appetite, tooth grinding have strict sanitation of hutches, slightly reduced by feeding a medicated or vitamin
changes, antibiotics and travel stresses. depression, rough fur coat, dehydration, feeding and watering equipment. fortified food. Eliminate all affected rabbits, and
Not thought to be contagious. bloated abdomen and diarrhea containing purchase breading stock that are free of the disease.
mucus material.

Eye Infection Several types of bacteria. The eyes of baby rabbits may stick shut and Prevent cold drafts and other stress Apply an antibacterial ophthalmic eye ointment.
pus around the eyes may be noticed. conditions.
Fur Block “Hair Rabbit ingests a large amount of its own Rabbit will sporadically eat small amounts of Fur block is noted more often in An oral dose of 1/2 oz. mineral oil may be effective.
Ball” hair or that from another rabbit in a feed. A firm mass can be palpated in the Angora rabbits. If the fur block is too large, surgical removal is
short period of time. stomach. necessary.

Fungus Fungus A dry scaly skin (dandruff) on the shoulders Prevent contact with affected Apply tolnaftate to affected area. Other medications
Infection and back. rabbits. are available.

Hutch Burn Usually associated with wet and dirty Usually, a brownish crust covers the Do not allow fecal material to Clean affected skin with a germicidal soap and keep
hutches. Urine and fecal material cause infected area and a bleeding exudate may accumulate in the hutch. the area clean.
the skin to become irritated and be seen.
infected.

Ketosis Obesity, large litter, lack of exercise. Usually occurs just before or just after Prevent young does from getting Obesity can be prevented by limiting feed to 4 to 6
kindling. Does go off feed and will not too fat and make sure the does are oz. daily for does.
eat. eating at kindling time.

Mastitis A bacterial infection in the mammary The mammary gland will become red in Reduce any chance of injury to Penicillin is effective against staphylococcus
“Blue Breast” gland caused by an injury from nest box, color, swollen, tender and dark blue mammary gland as the doe enters or streptococcus organisms.
cage or a bite from nursing young. streaks may appear. the nest box. Do not transfer the
young to another lactating doe.

Malocclusion An inherited condition characterized by Lower teeth protrude and upper teeth curve Do not use rabbits with “buck Teeth on young rabbits can be trimmed until they
“Buck teeth” excessive growth of the front teeth. into the mouth. teeth” for breeding purposes. reach slaughter weight.

Pastaurellosis A chronic upper respiratory ailment Typical early signs are a nasal discharge, Quarantine all new rabbits for a 3 Tetracycline in feed may be effective in an
“Snuffles” caused by bacterial infection. watery eyes, head shaking, sneezing or week period. Cull rabbits that show uncomplicated case. For accurate treatment, the
rattling noise in breathing and a loss of continuous chronic symptoms of organism needs to be cultured and identified.
weight. Continual infection may cause the disease. Reduce stress factors
rabbits to become sterile. and have good management and
sanitation practices.

Pneumonia A bacteria or virus infection usually Elevated temperature, labored breathing, Control of "Snuffles" reduces Treatment may vary depending upon the causative
associated with other respiratory nasal discharge and loss of appetite are chances of pneumonia. Eliminate agent. A broad spectrum antibiotic may be helpful.
diseases or stress factors such as damp, symptoms. drafts and wet conditions.
drafty and unsanitary hutches.

Ringworm A fungus infection that can appear on Loss of hair in circular patches. A yellowish Do not allow infected rabbit in Clip the fur around affected area and treat with
any part of the body but most often will crust forms and sloughs off in about 3 contact with other rabbits. Wear toinaftate. Other medications are available.
occur on the head. This fungus infection weeks. If infection goes untreated, gloves when handling the infected
can be transmitted to humans. considerable scratching will occur. rabbit.
Salmonellosis Several members of the Salmonella General symptoms are diarrhea, loss of Good husbandry practices and a Tetracycline in the feed may be effective.
“Scours” group of bacteria can affect rabbits. weight, conjunctivitis, and rapid breathing. quarantine of new rabbits.

Skin Mange An infestation of mites that burrow There will be some loss of hair, scaly skin Infected rabbits should be Dust with an insecticide approved for the purpose.
through the skin and cause considerable and intense itching and scratching. separated and treated. The Treatment should be repeated in 7-days.
irritation. Mange mites that affect dogs premises should be disinfected.
and cats can infect rabbits.

Sore Hocks A bruised or infected area on the Scabs usually appear on the bottom of the Do not let wet litter and manure Wash the hock with a germicidal soap and apply an
undersurface of the hock joint. Related rear feet. Pad and toes of the front feet may accumulate. Eliminate sharp antiseptic such as tincture of iodine.
stress factors are a dirty hutch, rough become infected. Nervous and heavy rabbits objects on the floor.
surfaces on the floor, or a floor are more susceptible to the sore hock
constructed with the wrong size wire- condition.
grid.

Spirochetosis Infection by a spirochete and can be Blisters or scabs occur on the sex glands. Always check the breeders before Injection of penicillin is the best treatment. Do not
“Vent Disease” transmitted by mating. mating. Isolate all new rabbits. breed until all lesions disappear.

Tyzzers Disease A bacterial infection usually associated The acute form results with diarrhea, The best preventative measures are Treatment with antibiotics is not very effective.
with stress conditions and poor dehydration and death within 48 hours. clean stock and good husbandry
sanitation. practices.

Warbles The growth of the botfly larvae under Warbles can be observed as enlargements Screen the area to keep the botfly Remove the larvae without crushing it. Clean the
the skin. under the skin with a small hole in the away from the rabbit. wound with a germicidal soap or apply an antibiotic
center. The condition is painful and the powder or ointment to prevent infection.
rabbit may lick the area.