ALL ABOUT: Router Workshop

Epoxy Resin Inlay Door Joinery

Woodsmith.com Vol. 46 / No. 277

WORKING WITH
RASPS & FILES
+5 Great
Projects for
All Skill Levels
• Retro Bar
• Tool Tote
• Storage Bench
• Shoji Door
Wall Cabinet
• Folding Desk

w277_001.indd 1 12/6/2024 9:51:30 AM

 EVERYTHING
for the Woodshop
1
P

•
•
•
•
•

6
A

•
•
•

1
D

•
•
•
•

800-523-4777 #GRIZZLYTOOLS
Business to Business Please visit grizzly.com for up-to-date pricing. WARNING! †1 : Cancer & Reproductive Harm
Equipment Financing

Due to rapidly changing market conditions, our advertised Some products we sell can expose you to chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer
FINANCING AVAILABLE prices may be changed at any time without prior notice. and/or birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

GRIZZLY_WS274_FULL PAGE SPREAD.indd 2 / /24 11:44 AM

 Purveyors of Fine Quality Machines,
Machinery® Since 1983 Buy Direct & Save

10" 2 HP 115V/230V Cabinet Saw 10" 3 HP 240V Table Saw 10" 3 HP Heavy-Duty
Power, precision, and durability High-end functionality Cabinet Table Saw
• Built-in cast-iron router table • Extra-large handwheels ease For large-scale production
• 311 ⁄2" Rip capacity • Footprint: 27" x 201 ⁄2" extension arbor movement • Right and rear extension tables • Lockable magnetic switch
• Blade guard dust collection • Shipping weight: ≈ 473 lbs. • •
Universal T-track router Footprint: 201 ⁄2" x 201 ⁄2" • Digital readout for bevel angle • Footprint: 227⁄8" x 21"
• 40" Cast-iron table clamping system • Shipping weight: ≈ 550 lbs. • Rip capacity: 52" R, 18" L • Shipping weight: ≈ 685 lbs.
• Cast-iron tables and trunnions • Table size: 48" x 27"
• Quick-change riving knife and
• Deluxe 2-position aluminum • Quick-change riving knife and blade guard
rip fence blade guard

MADE MADE MADE

IN AN FACTORY IN AN FACTORY IN AN FACTORY
$
249 $
329 $
369
601745 177335 175370

G0899 ONLY $1395 G1023RLW ONLY $2650 G0651 ONLY $2595

FREIGHT FREIGHT FREIGHT

6" Jointer 15" Variable-Speed Planer 17" Bandsaw

A smooth-cutting spiral cutterhead Engineered for power and precision Our best-selling 2 HP bandsaw
SINCE
1906

• 4-Row helical cutterhead with • Built-in mobile base • 4-Row helical cutterhead • Left-cutting capacity: 161⁄4"
30 indexable carbide inserts • User-friendly controls with 52 indexable carbide • Resaw capacity: 12"
• Parallelogram table adjustment • Footprint: 27" x 201 ⁄2" inserts
• Blade speeds: 1700, 3500 FPM
• Long infeed table and center- • Shipping weight: ≈ 473 lbs. • Digital table height readout
• Oversized cast-iron table
mounted fence • Variable-feed speed dial on
• Table tilt: 5° Left to 45° right
control pedestal
• Precision-ground cast-iron • Footprint: 27" x 18"
table • Shipping weight: ≈ 421 lbs.
• Extra-large ball bearing
return rollers
• Footprint: 23" x 221 ⁄2"
• Shipping weight: ≈ 595 lbs.

MADE MADE
IN AN FACTORY IN AN FACTORY
$
199 $
329 $
249
175370 181721

G0604Z ONLY $1295 FREIGHT

SB1108 ONLY $2995 FREIGHT
G0513X2 ONLY $1995
FREIGHT

18" x 47" Heavy-Duty Wood Lathe 6" x 48" Belt/9" Disc Combo Sander 3 HP Double Canister
Digital control at your fingertips Designed for heavy-duty projects Dust Collector
The ultimate in dust collection
• Variable frequency drive • Cast-iron construction • Cabinet stand with convenient
• Variable-speed spindle • Footprint: 651 ⁄2" x 20" storage locker • 1-Micron, double-canister
control • Shipping weight: ≈ 503 lbs. • Exclusive quick belt-release filtration
• 10° Spindle indexing mechanism • Collection capacity:
• Digital readout • Cast-iron table, disc, and body 9 Cubic feet
• Graphite-coated platen • 3-Inlet 4" adapter
• Dual dust ports • Heavy-duty steel intake
• Footprint: 15" x 161 ⁄2" • Airflow capacity: 2320 CFM
• Shipping weight: ≈ 173 lbs. • Footprint: 491⁄2" x 211⁄2"
• Shipping weight: ≈ 214 lbs.

MADE MADE MADE

IN AN FACTORY $
329 IN AN FACTORY $
199 IN AN FACTORY $
199
G0733 ONLY $2325 G1014ZX ONLY $595 G0562ZP ONLY $1125
4000909 247570

FREIGHT FREIGHT FREIGHT

GRIZZLY_WS274_FULL PAGE SPREAD.indd 3 / /24 11:44 AM

 ®

AN ACTIVE INTEREST MEDIA PUBLICATION

from the editor
EXECUTIVE EDITOR Phil Huber
SENIOR EDITOR Erich Lage
ASSISTANT EDITOR Rob Petrie Sawdust
EXECUTIVE ART DIRECTOR Todd Lambirth
SENIOR ILLUSTRATOR Dirk Ver Steeg
SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNERS Bob Zimmerman,
Becky Kralicek Some elements of building a good project are obvious: beautiful
CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR Erich Lage
wood, solid joinery, clear plans, and sharp tools come readily to mind. The
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Chris Fitch other day, Erich came in to chat and shared another: light and shadow.
PROJECT DESIGN EDITOR Dillon Baker
PROJECT DESIGNER/BUILDER John Doyle He wrote the Atomic bar and Shoji wall cabinet projects. Each of those
CAD SPECIALIST/BUILDER Steve Johnson
makes expert use of light and shadow to enhance its appearance. On the bar,
SHOP MANAGER Marc Hopkins
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER Chris Hennessey thin strips lift the front lattice away from the panel behind it. The resulting
ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Jack Christiansen shadow lines make the gridwork more dramatic.
847-724-5633
[email protected] The shoji cabinet takes a different approach. There are two different widths
AD PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Julie Dillon
of lattice strips in front of the translucent shoji paper. After assembly, the offset
GRAPHIC DESIGNERS Julie Green, Anna Otto
surfaces catch and reflect light, enhancing the geometric effect. Subtle details
like that are a testament to the skill of the Woodsmith design team and project
SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, CONTENT Rob Yagid builders. They spend a lot of time fine-tuning designs and studying past and
DIRECTOR, SALES OPERATIONS Heather Glynn Gniazdowski
current work to incorporate small details that have a big impact.
Which reminds me, that Atomic bar owes its origin to shop manager, Marc
Hopkins. Earlier this year, he hosted a pool party and “needed” a bar to
CHAIRMAN & CEO Andrew W. Clurman suit the theme. He came up with the one you see here. He built it over sev-
CHAIRMAN EMERITUS Efrem Zimbalist III
eral lunch hours and weekends in the shop at Woodsmith. We all thought it
CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Brian Van Heuverswyn
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Adam Smith was cool. So Dillon drew up the plans you’ll find on page 28. If you have a
CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER Gary DeSanctis
SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, MARKETING Erica Moynihan project idea, I’d love to hear it.
VICE PRESIDENT, MARKETING Amanda Phillips
Send me an email phuber@aim-
VICE PRESIDENT, CIRCULATION Paige Nordmeyer
VICE PRESIDENT, SALES OPERATIONS Christine Nilsen media.com. It might just end up
VICE PRESIDENT, EVENTS Julie Zub
VICE PRESIDENT, DIGITAL PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Ashley MacDonald in these pages.
VICE PRESIDENT, STRATEGY & RESEARCH Kristina Swindell
DIRECTOR, HUMAN RESOURCES Scott Roeder
DIRECTOR, PRODUCTION Phil Graham
DIRECTOR, RETAIL SALES Susan A. Rose
DIRECTOR, INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY Andrew Shattuck

Woodsmith® (USPS 465-410) (ISSN 0164-4114) is published bimonthly by the Home Group of Ac-
tive Interest Media Holdco, Inc. The known office of publication is located at 2143 Grand Ave, Des
Moines, IA 50312. Periodicals Postage Paid at Des Moines, IA, and additional mailing offices.
Postmaster: Send address changes to Woodsmith, Box 37274, Boone, IA 50037-0274.
Postmaster: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 507.1.5.2); NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES:
Woodsmith, Circulation Department, PO Box 37217, Boone, IA 50037” Printed in U.S.A.

Woodsmith® is a registered trademark of Active Interest Media Holdco, Inc.

Copyright© 2025 Active Interest Media Holdco, Inc. All rights reserved.
Subscriptions: $29/year, Single copy: $7.99
Canadian Subscriptions: Canada Post Agreement No. 40038201. Send change of
address information to PO Box 881, Station Main, Markham, ON L3P 8M6.
Canada BN 82564 2911

WoodsmithCustomerService.com
ONLINE SUBSCRIBER SERVICES
• VIEW your account information • PAY your bill
• RENEW your subscription • CHANGE your mailing or e-mail address
CUSTOMER SERVICE Phone: 800-333-5075 weekdays
SUBSCRIPTIONS EDITORIAL
Customer Service Woodsmith Magazine
2143 Grand Avenue 2143 Grand Avenue
Des Moines, IA 50312 Des Moines, IA 50312
[email protected] [email protected]

4 • Woodsmith / No. 277

w277_004.indd 4 12/17/2024 1:10:59 PM

 contents Projects
No. 277 • Feb/Mar 2025

designer project
Atomic Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Your next get-together is sure to have a mellow vibe after
making this retro serving bar.
designer project
Shoji Wall Cabinet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
The elegance of the the lattice pattern combined with tradi-

28
tional paper backing makes for a stand-out look.
shop project
Tool Tote . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
This classic-looking carry-all is as practical as it is easy to
build, perfect for weekend to-do list projects.
designer project
Storage Bench . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Stout joinery, a comfortable seat, three spacious drawers:
this bench has it all.
designer project
Fold-Up Desk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
A drop-front worksurface transforms a lovely wall cabinet
into a compact station for knocking out daily tasks.

Departments
from our readers

42
Tips & Techniques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
all about
Epoxy Inlays. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
book excerpt

54
Japanese Joinery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
great gear
New Portable Power Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
woodworking technique
Rasps & Files . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
router workshop
Frame & Panel Joinery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
Sources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66

Woodsmith.com • 5

w277_004.indd 5 12/12/2024 10:32:41 AM

 READER’S

 Creating a series of holes

along the centerline allows
you to have several different
distances on the same guide.

Offset Tracing Guide

On my latest project, I needed to
make a base that would extend
exactly 11⁄2" from the profile of the
piece above it. To do this, I made the
simple guide you see here.
The guide consists of two pieces: a
spacer block to establish the distance
from the perimeter, and a support
block on top of it to help keep my
pencil in place. The “V” shape on the
front of the spacer allows this guide
to stay accurate no matter the shape
of the piece. The holes are friction fit
for my pencil, and determine how far
NOTE: Holes shown are examples. the layout is offset from the original.
Drill holes to suit your needs
Dan Martin
Galena, Ohio
2¼

3 a. TOP VIEW
1¼
SUPPORT BLOCK Spacer
(1½" x 4¼") block
¾

Measure and Size holes to

drill holes friction fit Support
before chamfer pencil block

b. SIDE VIEW
SPACER BLOCK
(1½" x 5")
3⁄16" chamfer
Support block
NOTE: Both blocks
are made from ¾" plywood ¾
Spacer
block

6 • Woodsmith / No. 277 Compiled by: Rob Petrie; Built by: John Doyle

w277_006.indd 6 12/16/2024 11:29:00 AM

 Stand Off Stop Block GO
When cutting small pieces on the table
saw, it’s nice to have a stop. Using the rip
(left photo). For cutting I hook the heel
of the block on the front edge of the saw
2
Online
fence isn’t a good idea, since the pieces table. The workpiece clears the cham- Extras
could easily bind and kick back. fered corner on the block just before it
Instead, I turned my jointer push block makes contact with the blade. For more on
into a standoff block. I set the fence with Phil Huber th is j ointer
push b lock ,
the push block even with the blade Urbandale, Iowa h ead to:
Woodsmith.com/277

Illustrations: Becky Kralicek Woodsmith.com • 7

w277_006.indd 7 12/16/2024 11:29:37 AM

 QUICK TIPS

Get a Grip. Emanuel Ringel of Ambler, PA has seen Steel Wool Recycling. Pete Wohlars of Dothan, AL
many tips over the years for making clamps easier doesn’t waste his steel wool. After using a pad, he
to tighten. They all seem to involve modifying the cleans it with mineral spirits, blots it dry, then places
smooth, wood handle, but when he needs some extra it in a plastic sandwich bag with some spare silica gel.
“oomph,” he slips on a pair of rubber-coated gloves This keeps out the oxygen and water that often causes
for extra gripping power — no modifications required. pads to rust, allowing them to be reused several times.

SUBMIT A TIP TO WIN

GO ONLINE
If you have an original shop tip, we would
like to hear from you and will consider
publishing your tip in one or more of our
publications. So jump online and go to:

SubmitWoodsmithTips.com
You’ll be able to tell us all about your tip and
upload your photos and drawings. You can
also mail your tips to “Woodsmith Tips” at the
editorial address shown on page 2. We will pay
up to $200 if we publish your tip.

Miter Gauge Holder

It’s nice to have a few different miter
gauges. To keep them easily at hand, I
prefer to mount them on the wall with
aluminum tubing. One end is cut at
45° to make the gauge easy to grab and
a single screw keeps it secured.
Logan Ward
Mesa, Arizona

8 • Woodsmith / No. 277

w277_008.indd 8 12/16/2024 11:33:57 AM

 Table Saw Alignment
It’s no big secret that the fence on
a table saw can come out of align-
ment, and that’s bad news. At
best, you’ll be left with a rough or
burnt edge, and at worst you risk
binding the workpiece and having
it kick back. Luckily, it’s easy to
verify your fence adjustment with
just a couple steps.
First, mark one tooth to use as a
reference. Next, cut a block to help
you measure the distance between
the fence and the blade. (The two
 be
Begin by marking a tooth. This will
used as a reference to ensure the
 With the marked tooth on the infeed
side, position the fence so it and the
dots on the block allow you to ori- fence is properly aligned. blade are touching the block.
ent the block consistently.) Mea-
sure the infeed side first. Rotate
the blade so the marked tooth is
beside the block, then position the
fence so the block is flush to it and
the blade. Now, move the piece
to the outfeed side and rotate the
blade. If there’s a gap, or if the
block is too tight, then you’ll need
to adjust your fence accordingly.
Dan Martin
Galena, Ohio  Position the block and marked tooth
at the outfeed side. If there’s a gap,
 touching
Adjust the fence until the block is
both the blade and fence,
you’ll need to adjust the fence. as it was on the infeed side.

Some Jobs Are Monsters

All On Their Own.
Dust collection doesn’t have
to be one of them.

SUPERCELL
High-Pressure Dust Collectors
The World’s First Universal Dust Collector

P Paul B. Verified Buyer

Worth every penny. I installed my new Supercell

over a month ago and can I just say, wow. SEE HOW

Contact us today for your FREE

dust collector consultation.
800.732.4065 oneida-air.com

Woodsmith.com • 9

w277_008.indd 9 12/16/2024 11:34:25 AM

 Improved Drill Guide
Drill guides are becoming more This brand of drill guide already dowels usually too large for the
popular these days, and with has four holes tapped and guide. Second, a few holes drilled
good reason. However, they all threaded to accommodate 1⁄4"-20 in the back offer storage: two
share one slight but common and screws, making it an easy addi- holes to hold the guide rods and
annoying flaw. With their small tion. The base adds a great deal of a third for the key for the chuck.
bases, they tend to tip over eas- stability, preventing any tipping. A slight chamfer on these made
ily, which invariably moves the bit In addition to the base, I also with a countersink bit helps make
and possibly ruins the cut. added a step to the rear of this it easy to quickly slot the rods and
To solve this, I added the base add-on. This serves two functions. key in place.
and step you can see below. The first is a deeper V-groove, Hermie Tolerba
which allows me to drill through Sugar Land, TX
a.
NOTE: Size holes
Step for your key
5⁄8 and guide
rods
5⁄16"-dia.
TOP VIEW hole
11⁄8 ¼" chamfer
¼"-dia.
STEP hole
5⁄8 (5" x 5¾")
Base 2¼

3⁄8"-rad. BASE
NOTE: Base (5" x 10½")
and step are
½" plywood NOTE: Size opening
to fit the base
of your drill guide b. SIDE VIEW
4¾ ¾
2½
NOTE: Size and Base
location of
everything is drill ¼"-dia. 17⁄16
guide dependant hole 39⁄16

10 • Woodsmith / No. 277

w277_010.indd 10 12/16/2024 11:39:31 AM

 STRONGER

 The additional platform and

step provide greater surface
 AtheV-groove in the step allows
carriage to be reversed
area for more stable drilling. when drilling larger dowels.

 Three  With
holes on the step offer this drill guide, ⁄ "-20 1
4
storage. Here one holds the key screws secure the base using
and two hold the guide rods. the guide rod holes.

DIGITAL WOODSMITH
RECEIVE FREE ETIPS BY EMAIL
Now you can have the best time-saving secrets, solutions, and techniques
sent directly to your email inbox. Simply go to: Woodsmith.com

and click on, Woodsmith eTips

You’ll receive one of our favorite tips by
email each and every week.
RATED #1 BY PROS
Ultimate Performance

1.800.347.GLUE

Woodsmith.com • 11

w277_010.indd 11 12/16/2024 11:39:06 AM

 ALL
About
Epoxy Inlays
U sually, it’s hard to resist opening the lid on a small
box to see what’s inside. That’s not the case with
these turned gift boxes, however. The intricate inlays on the
outside are what grab all the attention. In this issue we’ll focus
on making the dragonfly lid. In the next issue (Woodsmith 278)
we’ll shape the bowls and fit their respective lids.
EPOXY INLAYS. Now I know, you’re probably thinking that
making these inlays is a tedious, time-consuming matter.
But it’s really a simple two-step process. First, the open-
ings are cut on the lid with a scroll saw (photo, page 14).

12 • Woodsmith / No. 277 Written by: Erich Lage

w277_012.indd 12 12/12/2024 9:59:20 AM

 FASTER

 After filling in the openings with colored epoxy, turning the lid brings the dramatic inlay to
life. You’ll attach the lid to a sacrificial blank to create this profile. Then you’ll make the box
to fit the lid. Those detail will be covered in the next issue in Woodsmith/278.

Then these openings are filled with can make a big difference in the
colored epoxy. Once the epoxy cures, appearance of the box itself.
turning the lid to shape reveals the PICKING A PATTERN. As for the other
decorative inlay, as you can see in patterns (the stalks of wheat, and
the photo above. (For information on the symbol for love on the lids of
the coloring agents and the epoxy we the boxes at left), they are available
used, see the Box on page 15.) online at Woodsmith.com/277. But here
AS THE BOX TURNS. Making the inlays again, you may want to come up with
is half the fun of these unique gift another pattern altogether.
projects. The other half is turning the BUYING BLANKS. That takes care of every-
boxes to shape. The good news is you thing except for the wood. To match
don’t need to be an expert to do this. the color and figure between the lid
All three boxes can be turned using a and the box, I cut both pieces from
few simple lathe tools (a round-nose a single blank. This requires a thick
scraper, a square-end scraper, and a piece that you’re not likely to find in a
parting tool) and some straightfor- scrap bin, so I would recommend pur-
ward scraping techniques. chasing some turning blanks.
ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES. As you can see in Each box requires a 3"×6"×6" turn-
the photo at left, I made three boxes.
The instructions (and dimensions for
ing blank. (Refer to sources on page
66.) Not only were these blanks thick
IMMEDIATE RESULTS
turning the box) with the dragonfly enough to cut the lid and box from a Tough & Impact Resistant
on the lid begin on the next page. single blank, but they had amazing
Keep in mind, however, that you figure and were very stable.
don’t have to make any of the three I made the box with the “love” sym-
boxes shown here. The beauty of bol from bubinga, and the box with the
turning a project on a lathe is that the stalks of wheat from figured Western
possibilities for creativity are virtually maple. As for the dragonfly box, it’s
limitless. Using the instructions in this made from a thick chunk of 12/4,
article, you may want to experiment quartersawn white oak. Like I men-
with the shape and size of your own tioned earlier, you can turn the page
turned box. It’s surprising how small and take a look at how we tackled the 1.800.347.GLUE
changes in the shapes and dimensions dragonfly lid.

Woodsmith.com • 13

w277_012.indd 13 12/12/2024 10:00:09 AM

 MAKING A DRAGONFLY LID
Lid pattern
As mentioned on page 13, both the lid
and box portions of this gift box are made
from a single wood blank as shown in
Lid blank the drawing to the left. This ensures con-
(¾" x 6" x 6") sistent color and grain pattern between
the lid and the box on the finished piece.
CUT THE LID FREE. Once you select a block of
wood, the first step is to separate the lid
Box blank
(27⁄32" x 6" x 6") blank from the box blank. To do that, use
a band saw to slice a 3⁄4"-thick piece from
the blank (detail at left). You’ll notice in
the detail that I kept the band saw kerf
on the box side of the workpiece. Set the
thicker box blank aside for now.
APPLY & CUT PATTERN. With that complete,
select a pattern that you like, make a
copy of it, and apply it to the top of the
lid blank with spray-on adhesive. The
NOTE: Lid and box
blanks are cut from next step is to cut out the pattern with
Band saw
one 3" x 6" x 6" blank a scroll saw. To cut each opening, you’ll
have to make a “pierce” cut. This requires
drilling small holes (1⁄16" or 1⁄32") in each
¾" section, so you can insert the scroll saw
Fence Box
blank blade before attaching it to the arm of the
scroll saw. (I used a #9 skip-tooth blade to
Lid make these cuts cleanly.) Then cut out the
blank
openings as shown in Step 1 below.
MIX EPOXY. Once the cutouts are com-
plete, you can focus your attention on the
colored epoxy mixture that will fill them.
The epoxy I used is a 30-minute epoxy

BRING A DRAGONFLY TO LIFE

1 2 3

Pierce Cuts. Start with pierce cuts The Proper Mix. Add a half-teaspoon Fill It Up. Pour the mixture into the
on the scroll saw. Carefully cut each of colorant to 4 fl. oz. of epoxy and openings in the blank and use a scrap
opening before moving to the next. stir slowly to prevent bubbles. stick to smooth the surface.

14 • Woodsmith / No. 277

w277_014.indd 14 12/12/2024 10:11:22 AM

 BETTER
EPOXY & COLOR
Color Options. You can use a variety of agents to
change the color of epoxy. The scrap pieces shown
below, represent just a handful of the many colors
you can create.

Tempera
powder

Tempera
powders Liquid
tint

Powder
tint Powder
tint

from a hobby shop. It cures slowly,

so you can mix in the color and
NOTE: Enlarge
pour the epoxy into the lid cut- pattern 200%
outs before it sets. I got good
results by using tempera
powders (available at craft
stores). Liquid concentrate
and powdered color tints
designed for use with epoxy
are also available. First, mix
about 2 fl. oz. each of epoxy
and hardener together. Then
add the colorant. It doesn’t
take much — just about a half-
teaspoon of powder or liquid
(Step 2 shows this).
FILL CUTOUTS. Before pouring the mix-
ture into the cutouts, place masking
SUPERIOR STRENGTH
Fast Set – 2X Thicker
tape over the back of the lid blank, so
it won’t leak through. Then fill the GO
cutouts with the epoxy mixture (Step
3). As you’re pouring, be sure to even
Online
2
Extras
out any voids in the epoxy with a
small scrap piece. A blow dryer will For full size
lid patterns
remove any bubbles that show up. and turning
Don’t worry about being too neat and dimensions,
go to:
tidy here, though. You’ll clean up the Woodsmith.com/277
surface when you turn the lid (and
the box) to shape. Those details will 1.800.347.GLUE
be in the next issue. W

Woodsmith.com • 15

w277_014.indd 15 12/12/2024 10:11:53 AM

 WOODWORKING
Technique

Japanese Joinery
by Dorian Bracht

A s a relatively niche hobby,

it’s always nice to find a
new voice on woodworking. The
internet has thankfully provided
namesake. Traditional Japanese
joinery has a reputation for being
intricate and precise. This book
will not dissuade you from that
a broad platform to a number of opinion, but it will break down
people, but there’s still something and present the joints in a way
viscerally satisfying about a good that’s easier for a Western wood-
book. And, the newly released worker to get a grasp on.
book you see at left has been one You won’t find full projects in
that captured my recent attention. this book. Instead, Bracht offers
JAPANESE JOINERY. The book Japanese a broad collection of joints from
Joinery by author and woodworker across Japan, including both
Dorian Bracht is a fascinating structural and furniture joinery.
exploration on the art of wood- He provides their use, and ways
working, centering around its to incorporate them in your work.

16 • Woodsmith / No. 277 Written by: Rob Petrie

w277_016.indd 16 12/16/2024 10:30:14 AM

WOODPECKERS_WS277.indd 1 12/5/24 10:22 AM
 Double tenon
joint Dovetailed
mortise and
tenon
 The nimai hozo joint is a familiar
double tenon with mitered sides,
commonly used for shoji screen doors.
 Much like in Western woodworking, mitered frames are quite common,
though this joint uses a sturdy, dovetailed mortise and tenon joint.

A JOINERY JOURNEY There are a number of joints intricate design and a precise fit.
There is one line in the introduc- featured in Japanese Joinery, and Bracht has compiled an impres-
tion of Japanese Joinery that stuck the average Western wood- sive collection of joints used in
with me: “I would become some- worker will find both the familiar both architecture and furniture,
one who has cut every joint in and the strange among them. The ranging from the pillars of cen-
existence at least once in their nimai hozo (double tenon joint) turies-old gates and temples to
lifetime.” It’s a lofty goal, but one and the kakushi tome ari sanmai modern-day case joinery.
that it seems Bracht is well on his hozo (blind mitered dovetailed The two photos to the lower
way toward accomplishing. mortise and tenon joint) shown left are prime examples of the
above wouldn’t be too out more complex joints you’ll find
of place in a piece of West- in this book. The nimaihozo no
ern furniture. However, sumiyoshi-an (twisted com-
the joints at left and below pound dovetail with oblique
are a different story. tenon joint) in the upper photo is
ALL-WOOD JOINTS. Tradi- strong against twisting, shearing,
tional Japanese joinery tension, and compression — plus
does not involve fasten- it has one impressive look. How-
Twisted ers. Joints are designed to ever, it requires the craftsman
compound resist applied forces with to freehand-cut a dovetail with
dovetail
the wood alone, requiring twisting sides.
Below is the suitsukizan (keyed
sliding dovetail) joint. While
it’s relatively simple in design,
it gets more complex in execu-
tion, as it’s used to join boards
into larger panels without glue,
or even to construct floors and
ceilings. Bracht includes a hand-
drawn illustration with this joint
(and many others), showing how
it’s used in a raised platform for
a tokonoma, an alcove used to dis-
play photos and art.
Keyed sliding
dovetail
KINDS OF JOINTS
Japanese Joinery divides the joints
 Traditional Japanese joinery rarely uses fasteners, opting instead for intricate and remarkably
strong joints. Bracht’s book contains a wide variety of joinery for both architecture and furniture.
into three catagories. First is the
lengthening joints, which focuses

18 • Woodsmith / No. 277 Photos (except page 16) & Illustrations courtesy of: GMC Publications

w277_018.indd 18 12/16/2024 10:34:45 AM

 largely on carpentry and framing. While the joints
outlined here don’t have much application for a ABOUT THE AUTHOR
furniture maker (unless you’re going to timber
frame a new shop), there are some fascinating
insights into historical Japanese architecture. One I Dorian Bracht is a German
enjoyed is the splice on the pillars of Otemon Gate, furniture maker who has
which you can see Bracht’s illustration of below. owned and operated his
The latter two chapters of the book contain joints own business in Berlin since
that will be more applicable to many woodwork- 2012. Dorian spent his youth
ers. These include the right-angle joints you see on studying abroad in both Los
the previous page, as well as the example of case Angeles and Hong Kong. He
joinery you’ll find on the following pages. This is finished his schooling in Berlin
where Bracht breaks down many of the complex before apprenticing under
joints, and he does so in a way that’s easy for inter- a master furniture maker
mediate woodworkers to grasp. in Leipzig. Dorian practices
HAND TOOLS. Before the chapters on joinery, Bracht traditional techniques, and
covers the tools he uses for these joints, and for constructs his furniture without
the furniture he makes in his own shop. This book using glue, screws, or nails.
focuses on using hand tools, encouraging you to
work primarily with the big three: saws, chisels,
and hand planes. Given the shapes on these joints, together timbers, or for framing the roof of a
you’ll find that hand tools are often the most prac- house. However, these joints are excellent ways to
tical way to get the job done, if not the only way. practice your woodwork, and are quite gratifying
A PASSION FOR JOINERY. Japanese Joinery will hold the (and fun) when you finally get them right.
attention of anyone with a historical interest in On page 20 you’ll find a few images from
woodworking, or with a keen eye for joinery. Not Bracht’s section on the mizu kumi joint. This is a dif-
all the joints in this book will be reasonable to ficult joint to make, but it provides a good example
apply to your own projects. Many are for splicing of the process for the joints you’ll find in the book.

Hand-Drawn. Each joint

is accompanied by a hand-
drawn, scale layout, and
many feature illustrations
of their intended function,
such the framing joint
at right or the splice
joint above, used on the
Otemon Gate that stands
in front of Osaka Castle.

Woodsmith.com • 19

w277_018.indd 19 12/16/2024 12:18:24 PM

  The book includes
three photos of each
completed joint,
showing them apart
and together, as well
as demonstrating
how the pieces mate.

Bracht uses a dimensioning system

in which the layout seems to “fold
out” from a single reference edge.

JAPANESE JOINERY IN PRACTICE DIMENSIONS & LAYOUT. At the begin- In terms of laying out these
To give you a sense of how the ning of Japanese Joinery, Bracht joints, this style of dimensioning
joints in this book are presented, demonstrates the Japanese is one I came to enjoy. It’s simple,
I’ve included a few images from methods of marking up a timber and works well to break down
the mizu kumi joint, known as the (for carpentry) and a workpiece complex assemblies into some-
double sunrise dovetail in Eng- (for furniture making). With each thing that can be easily laid out
lish. This is similar to a twisted joint, he provides a layout that onto each workpiece and then
dovetail in Western woodwork- follows that techinque. You can practiced.
ing, though the outer tails have see the layout for the mizu kumi DESCRIPTION & INSTRUCTION. Every
a slightly steeper grade than the above. The drawings are done in joint begins with a description.
interior ones, requiring high pre- scale, showing each face straight- This includes what structures
cision when paring the joint, and on, as if the finished workpiece or furniture you might encoun-
usually a good bit of fitting. had been unfolded. ter a joint on, historic or notable

20 • Woodsmith / No. 277

w277_020.indd 20 12/16/2024 10:35:05 AM

 uses of the joint, as well as its early pages. Though the book
advantages and disadvantages. doesn’t contain in-process shots,
The descriptions are brief, but it includes photos of the mating
I found they gave a good over- part, as well as their assembly
view of a joint before diving in, and the completed joint. Along
and provided inspiration as to with the layout and illustrations,
how I might incorporate them. I found this sufficient, but it may
When it comes to instruc- not offer the precise instruction a
tions, this is a book written for beginning woodworker needs.
woodworkers. Bracht provides FINAL THOUGHTS. I enjoy the his-
helpful notes and illustrations tory of woodworking, and
(like the drawing of fine-tuning appreciate the time and preci-
the mizu kumi on the previous sion required to make a finely
page), but the book assumes tuned joint. As such, there’s a lot
you already have woodwork- for me to like in Japanese Joinery.
ing experience. The notes focus While many of the joints in this
on the fine details — the kinds book may go over the heads of
of things someone takes to heart less experienced woodworkers,
after many attempts of perfect- they show the incredible results
ing the joint. from dedicated practice.
PHOTOGRAPHY. If you harbor any Additionally, I found many of
inklings that Dorian Bracht may these joints to be fantastic inspi-
not be a talented woodworker, ration for my own work. The
the photos in this book will cure examples provided in these last
you of that idea. Each joint was pages are just a few. If joinery Japanese Joinery. by Dorian Bracht, GMC
made by Bracht, using the selec- intrigues you, then I suggest you Publications, RRP $44.99, available online and
tion of hand tools he covers in the give Japanese Joinery a read. W from all good bookshops.

800-472-6950
www.woodline.com

Get precise dados with your router &

:KHWKHULW¶V&1&URXWHUWDEOHRU
our Dadoright™ Jig. Works with
KDQGKHOGZH¶YHJRWWKHELWV\RXQHHG ProGrip™ style clamps, Festool™,
1HHGWRÀDWWHQDERDUG" Makita™, Kreg™, TrueTrac™, and more.
:HKDYH\RXUVOHG
RXU VOHG ELWV
E

Aggreat
SURMHFW We have the
Requestt a copy of NEW LOCKED
our free catalog What can we help you make
k today? Dado in stock.

Woodsmith.com • 21

w277_020.indd 21 12/16/2024 10:36:01 AM

 GREAT
Gear

Mortises &
Handy Holders
Plywood base
Reversible dust
collection port

J oinery is the most important part of any

project — it literally ties things together.
And, just like there’s more than one way to
with clamping Ratcheting skin a cat, there’s even more ways to make
notches carriage
a table. This issue’s Great Gear begins with
a new tool from Kreg, which presents a quick
and easy method of making loose tenon joints.
Following that is a series of T-track acces-
sories from Milescraft. While joinery is far
from their only function, users of T-track
workbenches and tables will find much to
appreciate in the selection Milescraft pro-
vides, whether it’s joining, planing, sanding,
or any other task.
Carbide
Solid machined mortising KREG MORTISEMATE
aluminum and steel bit
The first tool to look at is the MortiseMate
from Kreg. This nifty tool is a jig that allows

22 • Woodsmith / No. 277 Written by: Rob Petrie

w277_022.indd 22 12/17/2024 1:12:39 PM

 Etched gauge for
Auxiliary common workpiece
base thicknesses

 Attaching an auxiliary base to main base allows for more

options when clamping the jig onto your workbench.
 Toonelocate the mortise, align the jig’s centerline with marked lines on
of your workpieces. Or you can use the built-in gauge.

you to cut mortises for loose the jig here works with nearly your workbench. I didn’t want
tenon joints (with matching loose any hand drill — and not requir- the jig to be a permanent fix-
tenons also available from Kreg). ing a new power tool naturally ture however, and chose instead
DRILLED MORTISES. For those inter- means a much lower price tag. to secure it to a larger piece of
ested in loose tenon joinery, a SETUP. The MortiseMate is an plywood I could clamp to my
variety of commercial options easy tool to set up. It comes with bench (left photo above).
are available. Domino joiners a “mini worksurface” attached The upper right photo shows
are great choices, but a tool like to the jig itself. Four additional centerlines that assist in locating
the MortiseMate offers a distinct pilot holes and screws are the mortise. Another option is
advantage. Where other systems included, with Kreg’s sugges- to use the thickness gauge that’s
often require proprietary tools, tion that you secure the jig to based on common stock sizes.

1409
®

                   

• Universal fit with most circular

saws with blades up to 7-¼”

• Cross-cut sheets out of the

box. Add the 1408 GuideRails™
to easily rip full length sheets

• Cuts through stock over 1-¾” thick

• Create precise 90° cuts with the

new 1410 TrackSawSquare™
SCAN,
LEARN,
BUILD. FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL

Woodsmith.com • 23

w277_022.indd 23 12/17/2024 1:14:02 PM

 1 2

 Ascarriage,
you drive in the drill, move the handle to slide the
removing waste across the mortise.
 Asgradually
the lever reaches the end, it ratchets ⁄ " deeper,
1
16
increasing the depth of the mortise.

3 Carriage
release
button

 Stop drilling once the carriage ratchets fully, the mortise is complete. Pushing the carriage release button springs the
carriage back to its original position, ready to drill out another mortise.

USING THE MORTISEMATE side-to-side (in addition to bit into the carriage, then mov-
Using the MortiseMate is easy, plunge cutting), guided by ing the lever as you push in
and pretty fun too. As I men- the carriage as you use the jig. (Step 1). When you reach the
tioned before, any corded or The tool comes with a 6mm car- end, the carriage ratchets in by
cordless hand drill you can bide cutter (though 8mm and 1⁄16". Move the lever back and

chuck the bit into will work. 10mm options are also avail- forth, steadily driving in until
THE BIT. Although you'll be able), along with a stop collar to you reach the full depth. Once
using a drill, the bits used for set the depth of the mortise. finished, pressing the release
the MortiseMate are more IN ACTION. You can see in the button will send the spring-
like router bits than drill bits. steps above how the jig works. loaded carriage back to its
The bit is designed to cut You'll begin by inserting the original position (as in Step 3).

24 • Woodsmith / No. 277

w277_024.indd 24 12/16/2024 11:19:41 AM

 XL
CamStop

Cam-lever

Standard
CamStop

 The cam-action makes these bench stops easy to set. With a profile of ⁄ ", these
make great stops for planing ⁄ "-thick workpieces.
3
4
5
8

PERFORMANCE. There's not much MILESCRAFT T-TRACK SERIES CAMSTOPS. The first are the Cam-
to complain about with the Mor- The second item in this issue's Stops, which come in standard
tiseMate. As long as you have a Great Gear is a collection of and "XL." As shown above,
dust collection system hooked stops and hold-downs from these are bench stops with
up, the mortises are easy to Milescraft. These are designed threaded cam clamps, making
cut and come out clean. It's a to slot into most T-tracks (using them quick to set. They're sized
nice alternative to an expensive 1⁄4"-20 T-bolts). There's a number for use with 3⁄4" stock, so you
dedicated tool, though I recom- of options available, beginning won't have to worry about hit-
mend taller individuals raise the with the relatively simple one ting them with a sander or, God
attached platform by about 5". you see above. forbid, a plane blade.

Large knob
provides
plenty of grip

These are family heirlooms

 This classic style of

hold-down applies
pressure from above,
making it great for the
drill press.
80% of all problems in wood projects are caused
by moisture content
ontent issues. A quick and simple,
non-damagingg moisture meter reading can save
you from angry
ry customer calls, unnecessary repairr
time, and a bad
ad reputation. Call today and learn
why Wagner’s industry-leading Orion meters mayy
just be the most
ostt important
os importa
impo rtant
nt too
tooll for
for your
your job.
job

(877) 721-8872 | WagnerMeters.com

Woodsmith.com • 25

w277_024.indd 25 12/16/2024 11:20:31 AM

 Cam lever
secures
clamp

Heads work
well for flat
edges, corners,
or even round
workpieces
Thumb nut
tightens
T-bolt  These InLine Clamps are a versatile option. The screw secures them in
the T-track while the cam lever locks the workpiece in place.

T-TRACKS CONTINUED INLINE CLAMPS. Milescraft’s InLine MULTISTOP. The MultiStops are a
The CamStop shown on the Clamps work well for a variety step up from the CamStops on
previous page is far from the of tasks on a surface with T-track. the previous page. While they
only option Milescraft has in its The T-bolt threads onto the red lack the cam, their shape makes
T-track lineup. These begin with thumb nut, allowing the upper them useful for many tasks.
the HoldDown clamps shown body to rotate freely as needed. Their flat edges can be used like
on the previous page. The head’s unique shape acco- the CamStops, as a bench stop
HOLDDOWNS. The design for the modates a number of differently or to support a flat edge. The
HoldDowns features two arms: shaped workpieces at differ- rounded face works on concave
a short arm for thick pieces and ent angles. The flat edge works workpieces, such as a curving
a long arm for thin ones. They well on square pieces, while the leg or a decorative arch.
work best where the required V-groove can hold a corner or However, I found myself using
clamping force is focused up provide two points of contact these in the orientation you see
and down (at the drill press, for against a round piece. to the lower left, with the arms
example). These come in two Once you’ve positioned the providing two points of con-
sizes: the ”100” (31⁄8" long) and clamp and screwed down the tact against a round workpiece.
the ”200” (51⁄4"). T-bolt, you then adjust the bar. These can be used together, or
To lock it in place, all you with the InLine Clamps depend-
need to do is pull the ing on the size of your piece and
quick-cam lever. spacing of your T-tracks.
Sturdy cast-
aluminum Central screw
body tightens
T-bolt

Dual contact-
points hold odd
shapes securely

 The MultiStops can be oriented in a number of ways, using their arms,

their flat edges, or even the rounded back on a concave workpiece.

26 • Woodsmith / No. 277

w277_026.indd 26 12/16/2024 11:21:57 AM

 ANGLESTOP. The final tool in Milescraft’s T-track series is the
AngleStop you see below. The base of this tool resembles the
CamStop XL, but with an arm that can be adjusted to a fixed
angle. The angles range from 60° to 180°, with interlocking
teeth on each piece to form a secure and reliable connec-
tion. This means the stop works well when working on 90°,
such as when securing a mitered frame or pocket screwing a
rail and stile like you see below, and on other, less common
angled assemblies.
One particular thing about this stop I like is the inclusion
of the screw slot on the arm. While these clamping solutions
work well most of the time, there’s only so much force a small
T-bolt can hold up to. However, the screw slot lets me fasten
the stop down directly for a stable hold.
T-SLOT ROUNDUP. The Milescraft T-slot series of clamping
options is a nice collection to have. While I find the Multi-
Stop and AngleStop to be the most useful of the bunch,
each has its place, and none are particularly pricey.
T-tracked benches and tables are a great way to incorporate
quick-to-set-up stops, clamps, and hold-downs into your
shop. Milescraft’s selection is a good choice if T-tracks are
your style — check out page 66 if you’re interested in pick-
ing one or more of them for yourself. W

Center
cam sets
angle
Screw can
be driven
through slot
for extra
stability

End cam
seats stop
in T-track

 The AngleStop can be set between 60° and 180° in 15° increments.
Like the CamStops, a ⁄ " profile works well for ⁄ " material.
5
8
3
4

Woodsmith.com • 27

w277_026.indd 27 12/16/2024 11:22:34 AM

 DESIGNER
Project

Atomic
Cocktail Bar
While there’s a strong retro vibe
to this bar, the fact is it’s a lot
more durable and elegant than
its predecessors.
 The decorative lattice front on the bar is accentuated by

A
the shadow-play that’s created by the strips of wood that
lift it away from the surface.
s libation-oriented basement furniture from
the 1950s goes, the homage you see to the
right has a lot going for it. First, by comparison to the
bars of the past that were built into the room with
dimensional lumber and dressed with grass mats; it’s
light and unattached to the room it resides in. Mobility
is a good thing. Second — no grass mats. That’s not to
say there isn’t a place for the Tiki genre of party rooms,
just not here. That’s enough from the history side of
things — let’s take a closer look at this bar.
GOOD WOOD. Starting at the top we’ve got nicely con-
trasting thick African mahogany that’s the gentle
yet firm focal point of the bar. The case parts are
plywood, veneered with African mahogany as well,
but left unstained to provide further contrast. Then
there’s the painted lattice front that brings a dynamic
lyrical energy to the bar.
GOOD SHAPES. It’s not just the front of the bar that
has pleasing shapes. The angled shelf and top that
sport flowing corners play into the streamlined look
of the Mid-Century movement. Lastly, the hairpin
legs lighten the overall look and give the illusion
that the bar is floating. The legs were are not shop-
made, they were purchased online and screwed to
the underside.
JOINERY. Simple yet sturdy tongue and groove join-
ery is used to assemble the shell of the case. That’s
combined with the ubiquitous pocket screws holding
the top, shelf, and bottom to the shell. All this means
is the project will come together quickly. If you’re so
inclined, it’s time to roll up the sleeves, head to the  Between the bottom and the serving shelf of the bar
you’ll find plenty of storage for whatever treats (liquid or
shop, and get after this project. otherwise) that you want to keep on hand for guests.

28 • Woodsmith / No. 277 Written by:Erich Lage, Project Design; Dillon Baker

w277_028.indd 28 12/10/2024 7:08:12 PM

 Illustrator: Dirk Ver Steeg Woodsmith.com • 29

w277_028.indd 29 12/10/2024 7:09:11 PM

 NOTE: All the parts are
made from ¾" plywood LEFT SIDE
2 (10" x 36")
2 B
2

NOTE: End pocket holes

are in same location on
left side

E
SERVING SHELF
(23½" x 42½")
Edge
banding
Edge
banding
NOTE: Dry assemble case starting
Edge to locate edge banding point
banding starting point

C
FRONT
(43¼" x 36")
A
RIGHT SIDE
(25" x 36") D
BOTTOM
(23½" x 42½")

Edge
banding

The bar starts with a.

b.
SHAPELY SHELVES 11⁄8 3⁄8
c. C
C FRONT
The case of the bar is an austere 3⁄8 11⁄8
SECTION
affair that’s comprised of five C VIEW
3⁄8 E
pieces of plywood. The plywood 3⁄8
used on this project is loosely
defined as a combi-core material.
It’s a plywood that has a veneer
1¼ pocket B
core sandwiched between outer A E screw 23¼
E B
layers of MDF covered with
D
the wood veneer of choice. In
our case that would be African ¾
TOP
mahogany (to partner with the TOP VIEW VIEW
wood top you’ll make shortly).
GROOVES FIRST. Start by cutting
the front, right, and left sides TIME FOR A TONGUE. To join the on the left side are set in the
to size. (The reference point for sides to the front you need to same distance from the edge as
these parts is from the front of make a tongue that runs along the ones you can see on the right
the bar.) You’ll cut the grooves both edges of the front (detail side. Now you need to add edge
with a dado set. Detail ‘a’ shows ‘b’). This calls for a dado set bur- banding to the exposed plys.
the groove that runs along the ied in an auxiliary fence. EDGE BANDING. The banding is a
inside face of the right side. The You might as well drill the little wider than the plywood,
groove on the left side (detail holes for the pocket screws on so it’s easy to hold it centered on
‘b’) is a mirror cut that can be the inside faces of the sides and the edge while ironing it in place.
done at the same time with the the front. These are for fastening Once the edging has cooled,
same set up. the top to the base. The pockets you can use a sharp utility

30 • Woodsmith / No. 277

w277_030.indd 30 12/12/2024 10:49:35 AM

 Edge banding ends here 8½
knife to slice away the major-
ity of the waste. Be mindful of 2
the grain direction though. You 4½ 2
don’t want the knife to cut into
the plywood. A sanding block 133⁄32
makes quick work of removing
any remaining material.

BOTTOM & SHELF

Next up is making the bottom
and serving shelf. Their overall BOTTOM VIEW BOTTOM VIEW
size is the same — but as you see
in the drawings to the right, the E D
final profiles of the two are dif-
ferent. The bottom stays within 413⁄16
NOTE: All circles are 113⁄8
the contour of the sides, while 2" radius
the left side of the serving shelf is
wider to accommodate storage.
2
Once you’ve done the prelimi-
nary layout work, remove the
excess material with a jig saw 11¼ 1113⁄16 11¼
10½
— staying on the waste side of
the line. Then it’s just a matter of 2 527⁄32 527⁄32
using straightedges and curved
templates along with your router 2 2 2 2
and a flush-trim bit to hone the
profile of the edges. the location of the edging, dry- and clamping them to the front.
MORE EDGING. Before assem- assemble the case and mark Then you can use spacers to
bling the base you’ll need to where the edging terminates. position the bottom in the case
add the edging to the parts Then apply the edging from and screw it in place. Then
you just made. The bottom is there. Once that’s done, drill attach the serving shelf (both
easy enough since both ends the pocket screw holes on the locations are shown it detail ‘c’
are trapped between the sides. underside of both workpieces. on the previous page). The last
But the edging on the left end ASSEMBLY. I assembled the base thing to do is flip the case upside
of the serving shelf protrudes face down. Start by applying down and screw the legs to the
beyond the side. To nail down glue to the grooves in the sides underside, as shown below.

a.

BOTTOM VIEW

Leg tip

NOTE: Keep tip of

legs inside of Leg tip
case profile

 The hairpin legs

provide a buoyant lift
to the bar, and are
easy to install on the
NOTE: Sources on page 66 underside of the base.
#10 x ¾" Ph woodscrew provides information
for purchasing the hairpin legs
8" Hairpin
legs
Woodsmith.com • 31

w277_030.indd 31 12/10/2024 7:12:27 PM

 F

LATTICE SUPPORT 1
(¾" x 36")
F G

a. H
TOP
SECTION
VIEW
¾ H

½ F G

I
16

7¾
H
LATTICE SUPPORT 3
(¾" x 34½")

G
LATTICE SUPPORT 2
(¾" x 41") I
LATTICE
NOTE: Lattice supports
Dress it out with (42½" x 36")
are made from ½"-thick
hardwood. Lattice is made

LATTICE & A TOP

from ¼" MDF core plywood

At this stage the bones of the bar brings the bar to life. On closer the four field supports. Now you
are complete — all that’s left to inspection you’ll notice that the can focus on the lattice.
GO do is gussy-up the front and add lattice has a subtle ally in the LATTICE PANEL. There are two

2
Online
the top. Let’s start with the front.
Leaving the front blank is
supports that are brad nailed to
the front of the bar (detail ‘a’).
ways to tackle the lattice panel.
You can make a template to
Extras always an option — it’s a boring THROWING SHADE. Simply stated, tile across the workpiece using
option though. The plywood by lifting the lattice off the sur- a small router. (The pattern is
For more on a CNC veneer does have a beauty of its face of the bar, the supports shown in the drawing below to
computer pattern
and full-sized own there’s no doubt. But the employ shade as a design ele- the left.) Or if you have a CNC
pattern go to: painted lattice with its repeating ment to enhance the look of the machine at your disposal you
Woodsmith.com/277 tondo motif cradled in a square lattice. You clearly see this effect can go download a pattern file.
in the photos at the beginning of Both options are available at
this project. Woodsmith.com/277.
1½ The supports that you see in Before installing the lattice
the main drawing above and you’ll want to take a break and
detail ‘a’ hide behind the perime- apply a couple of coats of lacquer
ter and vertical ribs of the lattice. to the front and the supports.
I ripped them out of the same Frankly, you could finish the
material that’s being used for the whole base at this time. Only
5⁄8
top. First I cut and installed the the top gets stain in this project.
FRONT two vertical pieces that fit against It’s also a good idea to sand and
VIEW the sides. Then it was time to cut paint the lattice as well. Then it’s
and brad nail the long horizon- just a matter of nailing the lattice
tal pieces at the top and bottom. in place, filling, and painting any
Lastly, you need to cut and install showing nail holes.

32 • Woodsmith / No. 277

w277_032.indd 32 12/10/2024 7:13:38 PM

 NOTE: Top is 1"-thick J
hardwood TOP
(30" x 48")

1¼" pocket screw

a. FRONT 1¼" pocket

SECTION screw
VIEW

J b.
2"-rad.
25⁄8
2

NOTE: Top overhangs 815⁄32

front and sides by 2"
THE TOP 2"-rad.
The last piece of the bar puzzle
is the top. As you see in detail
‘b’ the profile of the top echoes 1411⁄16
the serving shelf and the bottom.
While it conforms in that man- 16¼
TOP VIEW J
ner, it also adds to the beauty 2"-rad.
1019⁄32
of the bar with its thickness (it’s
2"-rad.
magical how adding just a 1⁄4" to
2
the thickness of the top changes
the feel of the bar) combined
with the dark stain.
GLUE UP & SHAPE UP. If you sized
and glued up the panels shown the profile. Bringing the top to the top is oriented on the base
in detail ‘b’ while I was chatting its final shape is a repeat per- and held in place from under-
about its merits, good for you — formance of making the bottom neath with pocket screws.
otherwise you need to do that and serving shelf. All that’s left is to move the bar
now. After you’ve packed away I chose to stain and finish the to its new home and stock it with
the clamps and scraped off any top before screwing it to the bar refreshments. Whoever helps
squeeze out, it’s time to lay out base. Both details show the how with the move is first in line. W

Materials, Supplies & Cutting Diagram

A Right Side (1) 3⁄
4 ply. - 25 x 36 F Lattice Support 1 (2) ½ x ¾ - 36 • 7⁄8" x 25’ Mahogany Edge Banding
B Left Side (1) 3⁄ ply. - 10 x 36
4 G Lattice Support 2 (2) ½ x ¾ - 41 • (4) 8" Hairpin Legs
C Front (1) 3⁄ ply. - 43¼ x 36
4 H Lattice Support 3 (4) ½ x ¾ - 34½ • (12) #10 x 3⁄4" Ph Woodscrews
D Bottom (1) 3⁄ ply. - 23½ x 42½
4 I Lattice (1) ¼ ply. - 42½ x 36 • (22) 1¼" Pocket Screws
E Serving Shelf (1) 3⁄ ply. - 23½ x 42½
4 J Top (1) 1 x 30 - 48
1" x 6" - 72" African Mahogany (Three Boards @ 3.8 Bd. Ft. Each)

J J

¾" x 5½" - 48" African Mahogany (1.8 Bd. Ft.)

H ALSO NEEDED: One 48"x 96" Sheet of ¾" African Mahogany Plywood,
F One 48" x 48" Sheet of ¾" African Mahogany Plywood, One 48" x 48"
G Sheet of ¼" Birch Plywood

Woodsmith.com • 33

w277_032.indd 33 12/12/2024 11:00:55 AM

 DESIGNER
Project

34 • Woodsmith / No. 277 Written by: Erich Lage; Project Design: Chris Fitch

w277_034.indd 34 12/16/2024 10:11:50 AM

 Shoji
Cabinet
The simple, timeless
design and subtle
geometry of this cabinet
allow it to live
comfortably in almost
any space you wish
to place it.

 The two sizes of lattice on top of the beautiful

shoji paper provide you with a light and
shadow show that’s always enjoyable.
A s old as shoji paper is — the mate-
rial has an uncanny knack of always
appearing young, new, and contemporary. To
be clear — shoji paper isn’t. In Japan’s dis-
tant past shoji was the name for a tool that
was used to obstruct. And as words do, it
evolved into the opaquely translucent paper
that obstructs details, but not light.
What’s not to love about the gauzy, lacy,
backdrop that shoji paper panels create for
the finger-like lattice that combs through the
surrounding light? As wonderful as those
elements of the door are, there’s even more
charm to consider with this cabinet.
CHERRY. Our cabinet is made of cherry. If I
had to choose one species of wood to work
with for the rest of my time it would be
cherry. It’s a well-behaved wood that’s a joy
to work with. Just look at the lattice and han-
dles in the photos — enough said.
DOWELS. The hidden surprise on this cabinet
is the joinery for the case — good old-fash-
ioned dowels. Our creative director, Chris
Fitch (and designer of this project) stated, “I
remember years ago reading woodworking
icon James Krenov’s book “The Impracti-
cal Cabinetmaker” and seeing that he used
dowel joints and thinking that they must be
okay, and they are. Anyway I chose them
 Shop-made cherry handles add to the
warmth of the cabinet. Cherry dowels lift
because they offer a combination of a clean
look, good strength, and fast easy assembly. I
them off the surface of the doors. think dowels are often overlooked.” Not any
longer, Chris.

Illustrations: Dirk Ver Steeg Woodsmith.com • 35

w277_034.indd 35 12/16/2024 4:34:39 PM

 a.
TOP SECTION
VIEW

C ¼

B
SIDE
(6¼" x 28") ½
3 B A
TOP A
(6" x 30½")

Hinge b.
mortise SIDE
NOTE: The back is VIEW
C ¼" plywood. All other
BACK parts are ¾"-thick ¼"-dia.
(31½" x 28") hardwood shelf pin
hole

5⁄16"-dia.
x 1½" dowel A 2
A

B
BOTTOM 1⁄16

c. d. FRONT
SIDE SECTION A SECTION
VIEW VIEW C
A
3 ½ 1

C 7⁄32
B 3⁄8 5⁄16
3⁄8 7⁄32

Exploring vintage ¾ 13⁄16 B

CASE JOINERY
Now that you can see the dowel drilled in the ends for the dow- will vary, so it’s important to
strategy in the drawing above, els, and the plywood back is just confirm the mortise size with the
there’s one more quote from that, a back. (The latter two are hinges you end up using.
Chris, “Dowel joints are easy to slackers in comparison to the SHELF PIN HOLES. Next on the to-do
make with homemade layout sides.) Let’s get started with the list are the shelf pin holes in the
jigs — all you really need is a four parts that make up the case. sides. You could do this after
sharp brad point or Forstner bit.” SIDES FIRST. Over at the table saw, the case is assembled with a
That’s just how we tackled this cut the top, bottom and sides to hardboard template (which I’ve
ancient joinery. But let’s survey size. Then you can change out often done). But since the hole is
the bigger picture first. the blade to a dado set and cut a 1⁄2" deep, I chose to use the drill
The sides of the case require the rabbet in the sides for the press with its built in depth-stop
the most attention. There are the plywood back. Detail ‘a’ shows along with a brad point bit. After
dowel holes on the inside face, what this looks like. laying out the hole locations on
along with the shelf pin holes. The main drawing and detail the sides, I headed to the drill
The front edge will receive a ‘b’ show the location of the mor- press. The box at the bottom of
shallow mortise for the hinges. tises you need to make for the the next page shows what this
Lastly, there’s a rabbet along the hinges. Even if you purchase looks like. Now it’s time to drill
rear edge for the plywood back. the hardware from the source we the dowel holes, but first you
The top and bottom have holes specify, occasionally the product need to make a jig.

36 • Woodsmith / No. 277

w277_036.indd 36 12/16/2024 10:13:55 AM

 A SIMPLE DOWELING JIG
GUIDE BLOCK
13⁄16 13⁄16 ¾ (1¼" x 6¼")
3⁄8 SIDE VIEW
NOTE: The guide block
is 1¼"-thick hardwood. ¾
The cleat is 13⁄16
SIDE VIEW ¼" hardboard 13⁄16

¾
3⁄8
¾

FENCE
(2¾" x 6¼")

A 1 2 B
5⁄16" brad
point bit
Tape Jig
as stop Alignment
mark
Jig
3¾ 1 NOTE: Use double
sided tape to hold
A jig in place
NOTE: Keep jig
flush to front
of side

Dual Action. This simple jig is a perfect guide for drilling dowel holes in all of the
case parts of the cabinet. In Figure 1 it’s being used to drill holes in the sides. Figure
2 2 shows it guiding the drill bit while making holes perfectly aligned to the sides.

DOWEL JIG hardboard fence. I chose to do

I have a well-made doweling jig the layout on the block and drill
that I purchased many moons the holes at the drill press before
7
ago. The problem is it’s designed gluing it to the fence. Then it’s
for making frames, not cases. time to drill some dowel holes.
The simple little jig you see in FACE FIRST. Figure 1 shows drill-
the box above is designed to do ing the holes in the sides. I used
both. It consists of a hardwood several short strips of double
guide block that’s centered on a sided tape to hold the jig in
place. You’ll want to use a stop
collar or some tape on the bit
SHELF PIN HOLES when drilling these holes.
Once you’ve moved the jig to
the ends of the top (and bottom)
1 a.
you can drill those holes a touch
over 1" deep. Now you can bring
SIDE in the dowels (the 1½" pre-made
¼" brad point SECTION versions). Also, let’s not forget
bit VIEW
to cut the plywood back to size.
A
½
With that you’ll be ready to glue
A
up the case.
GLUE UP. Take a moment to
gather all the accessories you’ll
need for a successful glueup.
Quick & Accurate. Using the drill press ensures that the shelf (For me this mostly means a
pin holes are square to the face of the sides. bowl of warm water to clean up
my mess.) Then get ‘er done.

Woodsmith.com • 37

w277_036.indd 51 12/16/2024 4:35:19 PM

 a.
D
CROWN
(7¾" x 33½") FRONT
F SECTION
VIEW

¼" shelf pin

¼"
shelf pin
NOTE: Glue b.
mounting cleats
in place
E D 1⁄8
MOUNTING CLEAT
(1" x 30½")
F
1⁄8
F E
FRONT
VIEW
SHELF
(5¾" x 303⁄8")

c.
D
E
SIDE
1⁄8" SECTION
roundover VIEW

E
D
FOOT NOTE: Top and bottom
extend in front to
encompass the doors
NOTE: The mounting
cleats are ½"-thick hardwood.
All other parts are D 45°
¾"-thick hardwood

Complete the need to tilt the saw blade to 45° edge of both those little fellows.
and cut the bevel on the front and Then glue them in their proper
CASE & DOORS sides of both boards, (detail ‘b’ place in the cabinet.
and ‘c’ show this). Detail ‘b’ also To complete the inside work of
Next up is completing the case of shows that you need to leave a the cabinet you need to make the
the cabinet. This involves adding small flat along the outer edge two adjustable shelves. After cut-
a crown and foot to the case, two of both pieces. When the cut- ting them to size, ease the edges
mounting cleats, and the adjust- ting is done, sand out any blade with sandpaper. Now it’s on to
able shelves. Then we’ll make marks that might have been left making the doors.
the door frames that highlight behind. To complete this stage,
the lattice and shoji. glue the pieces flush to the back DOORS
CROWN & FOOT. In theory, the cab- of the case and centered side to In essence the doors are a stile
inet could go without the foot side. Now you can tend to the and rail frame that hold the shoji
and crown parts you see in the mounting cleats. screen and its backing paper.
main drawing above. But the MOUNTING CLEATS. The two cleats Although the doors are light,
stately look these two parts pro- you see in the main drawing you still want solid, strong join-
vide is worth the modest effort and detail ‘c’ add rigidity to the ery holding them together. To fit
required to add them to the cabinet and are the perfect sur- that bill, generously sized mor-
project. Plus, if you don’t hang face for mounting screws if you tise and tenons were called into
the cabinet on the wall, the foot intend to hang the cabinet on play. They’re shown on the next
will stabilize it. the wall. Once you’ve cut them page in the main drawing and in
Start at the table saw cutting to size, head to the router table various states in the details. First,
the boards to size. Then you’ll and round over the outside let’s consider the mortises.

38 • Woodsmith / No. 277

w277_038.indd 38 12/16/2024 4:35:53 PM

 a. ¼ ¼
2" butt hinge

SIDE
VIEW 7⁄8
NOTE: Rails are
H
thinner than stile
to create offset
DOOR RAIL
(1½" x 15")
H G

b.
G

1⁄8 1

G
DOOR STILE
(1½" x 277⁄8") 7⁄8
H

FRONT
SECTION VIEW
H

c. 2" butt hinge

d.
NOTE: Stiles are made
from ¾"-thick hardwood.
Rails are made from
5⁄8"-thick hardwood H
7⁄8 G 1⁄16 ¼ H

3 1⁄8
MORTISES.Before making holes, 1
1
you need to cut the stiles to
size. Then with the four boards G TOP SECTION VIEW
stacked on edge, lay out the
location of the mortises at the BACK
VIEW
top and bottom (for the sake gander at detail ‘c,’ here you’ll
of uniformity). You’ll see that 2 note the tenon is closer to the
detail ‘d’ shows the mortise at face of the rail. Keep all of these
the top, and detail ‘b’ shows the details in mind as you head to
location of the lower one. the table saw to make these ras-
¾
Next you need to excavate the cally tenons.
waste in the mortise, there are Before gluing up the door I
a variety of ways to do this. If TENONS. Before we dive into took a little time to cut the shal-
you have a mortising machine making the tenons I want to low mortises on the back side
— goody for you. Or you could point out a subtle detail — the of the stiles for the hinges. Then
set yourself up at the router table rail thickness. Looking at detail you can glue up the doors.
making stopped cuts in multiple ‘a’ you’ll see a dashed line, GLUE UP. As you tighten the
passes. And there’s drilling mul- which is the profile of the rail. clamps, confirm that the stiles
tiple overlapping holes at the It’s flush to the stile at the back, and rails are flush on the back
drill press and then cleaning up but narrower on the front. This side. Even though the large mor-
the walls with a chisel. makes for nice shadow lines tise and tenons would suggest
I chose to spend some time across the face of the cabinet. everything is fine — it’s a good
chopping out the mortises at the Also, looking at detail ‘b,’ idea to check the door frame for
bench with my mortising chisels. you’ll see that the tenon is offset square. Next, you’ll adorn the
Partly to justify why I purchased towards the inside of the frame. doors with lattice, shoji paper,
them in the first place. (We’re not done yet.) Take a and a pair of nice handles.

Woodsmith.com • 39

w277_038.indd 51 12/16/2024 10:17:24 AM

 PAPER EDGING
(5⁄8" x 13")
a. NOTE: Lattice is 1⁄8"-thick S Shoji paper
3⁄16 hardwood. Paper edging is 139⁄16" x 257⁄16"
1⁄8"-thick hardwood
3⁄16
R ½
1⁄8

3⁄16
I

N 3⁄8
1⁄8
3⁄8

b. 3⁄8
3⁄16

3⁄16
I —M

O— R
1⁄8

c.

S
PAPER EDGING
S SIDE (5⁄8" x 261⁄8")
SECTION
VIEW

Making a beautiful
d. BACK VIEW
LATTICE
3⁄16 3⁄16

NOTE: Edging is
pin nailed in place
FRONT VIEW We’ve come to the icing on the cake —
N
O
13⁄16 making the lattice that fits in the doors. S
13⁄16 Which is the prelude to draping the
3¾ P S
Q back side with shoji paper. Shoji
paper
R The Front View that you see to the
Q left shows everything you need know
13⁄16
P
O
— at first glance it might seem over- version, and the one below is half of
whelming, but let’s break it down and the arrowhead.
take a closer look. MAKE THE BASE. To get started, you’ll
O SIZE MATTERS. To start, all the pieces are make thin blanks in both widths
1⁄ " thick (it’s the width that varies).
P 8 (make extras of both). To keep things
Q
All the vertical parts and the two that in order I made a square “L” shaped
R
Q
13⁄16 are the top and bottom border are 3⁄8" bracket out of 1⁄4" material to assemble
13⁄16 wide. These parts are the base of the the base lattice frame. Then I started
P
O lattice that the horizontal parts rest on. cutting and fitting the pieces, using a
The horizontal parts are all 1⁄2" wide. flat-topped 1⁄8" blade in the table saw.
I J K L M They reside above the base lattice Detail ‘a’ shows the cuts required to
frame and where the two layers inter- form the base lattice. Cut the half laps
sect they’re joined with half-laps. that join the top and bottom pieces to
O THE PATTERN. If you look at the seven the vertical members. Don’t glue up
13⁄16
P horizontal parts in the center of the the base yet, hold them in place with
Q grid you’ll see what resembles an low-tack tape. You need to locate the
R
13⁄16 arrowhead. This pattern is flipped notches for the horizontal members.
N
33⁄32
and repeated above and below the LAYOUT TIME. To accurately locate the
center one. The pattern above is a full horizontal members I made a spacer

40 • Woodsmith / No. 277

w277_040.indd 40 12/16/2024 10:19:24 AM

 the width of the distance a.
¼
between them. Starting from
the location of the “R” parts, use
the spacer and an extra piece of ¼" magnetic
T
½
catch, cup
lattice to mark the location of and washer
the half laps. When the layout NOTE: Handles are
is done, cut the half laps in the made of 5⁄8"-thick
1⁄16
hardwood HANDLE
base, and glue it together. Then T 2¾
(5⁄8" x 5")
cut the notches in the horizontal ¼" x11⁄8" 7⁄32
members (detail ‘b’) and glue dowel
them in place.
Making the lattice grid for
1⁄16"-rad.
the other door is easy. It’s just a T
11⁄8
repeat of the first that’s spun 180°
before pin nailing into the frame FRONT SIDE
NOTE: Handles are VIEW SECTION
(detail ‘c’). Before installing the centered on stiles VIEW
shoji paper, apply two coats of
lacquer to the door and lattice.
THE SCREEN. To install the shoji
paper lay the door face down paper taut while the first two HANDLES
on the bench and cut the paper are pressing the paper in place The handle starts as a 5⁄8"-square,
oversized. Then apply double along the rails moving towards extra-long blank (detail ‘a’). I
sided tape along the outer edge the inner stiles. Then it’s just a used a flexible ruler to draw the
of the screen. Placing the paper matter of trimming the paper arc profiles on the sides and top
accurately on the door is a four- and pin-nailing the paper edg- edge. After shaping, smoothing,
handed operation. The first two ing in place (detail ‘d’). You’ve and installing the handle, the
hands lower the paper onto already done the mortises for magnetic catches are the last item
the tape along the outer stile. the hinges, you can install those to add. This jewel of a cabinet is
The other two hands hold the now. It’s time for the handles. now ready for its new home. W

Materials, Supplies & Cutting Diagram

A Sides (2) 3⁄
4 x 61⁄4 - 28 I-M Vertical Lattice (10) 1⁄
8 x 3⁄8 - 247⁄8 • (20) 13⁄8"-dia. x 1½" Dowels
B Top/Bottom (2) 3⁄
4 x 6 - 301⁄2 N Border Lattice (4) 1⁄x 3⁄8 - 13
8 • (8) 1⁄4" Shelf Pins
C Back (1) 1⁄ ply. - 311⁄ x 28 O Lattice 1 (10) 1⁄ x 1⁄ - 45⁄ • (2 pr.) 2" Butt Hinges w/screws
4 2 8 2 16
D Foot/Crown (2) 3⁄ x 73⁄ - 331⁄ P Lattice 2 (10) 1⁄ x 1⁄ - 713⁄ • (4) ¼"-dia. x 11⁄8" Dowels
4 4 2 8 2 16
E Mounting Cleats (2) 1⁄ x 1 - 301⁄ Q Lattice 3 (10) 1⁄ x 1⁄ - 1013⁄ • (4) 1⁄4” Rare-Earth Magnets
2 2 8 2 16
F Shelves (2) 3⁄ x 53⁄ - 303⁄ R Lattice 4 (6) 1⁄ x 1⁄ - 13 • (4) 1⁄4” Magnet Cups
4 4 8 8 2
G Door Stiles (4) 3⁄ x 11⁄ - 277⁄ S Paper Edging (2) 1⁄ x 5⁄ - 160 rgh. • (4) 1⁄4” Washers w/screws
4 2 8 8 8
H Door Rails (4) 5⁄ x 11⁄ - 15 T Handles (2) 5⁄ x 5⁄ - 5 • (2) 16” x 30”Sheets of Shoji Paper
8 2 8 8

¾" x 6½"- 96" Cherry (4.3 Bd. Ft.)

T
A A B

¾" x 8"- 96" Cherry (5.3 Bd. Ft.)

B
D D
O P Q

¾" x 6½"- 96" Cherry (4.3 Bd. Ft.)

E
F F O P Q
R

¾" x 7¼"- 48" Cherry (2.4 Bd. Ft.) ¾" x 6"- 30" Cherry ( 1.3 Bd. Ft.) S
G H I-M
ALSO NEEDED: One 48"x 48"
N Sheet of ¼" Cherry Plywood
G H

Woodsmith.com • 41

w277_040.indd 41 12/16/2024 10:20:48 AM

 SHOP
Project

42 • Woodsmith / No. 277 Written by: Rob Petrie; Project Design: John Doyle

w277_042.indd 42 12/16/2024 1:11:02 PM

 Softwood
Tool Tote
Classic yellow pine and
traditional joinery come
together to create a
functional and attractive
way to haul your tools
around the shop.

 Wood runners support a drawer with tongue and dado

joinery, making for simple yet effective storage for smaller
pieces of hardware like screws and washers.
W hether it’s the initial layout work
or the final assembly, there are
plenty of times when a project calls for you
to haul an armful of tools and hardware over
to the workbench. At these points, a quality
form of portable storage like the tool tote you
see here is a great time-saver. Not only does it
make for more efficient trips across the shop,
but it also corrals bottles of glue, common
sizes of screws, rolls of tape, pencils, and a
bevy of other items that often end up strewn
haphazardly around as you work.
PINE & WALNUT. While hardwood is the go-to
choice for many of our projects, a softwood
like yellow pine is better for a tote such as
this. Pine offers beautifully figured grain,
and, despite its softness, is a stable and strong
option for toting around a weighty load of
tools and hardware. A walnut handle tops off
the tote, juxtaposing the pine and making for
a smooth, comfortable grip.
TONGUES & GROOVES. Tongue-and-groove join-
ery puts in the work on this project. These
elementary joints are as reliable as ever, and
because of their simplicity nearly all the
joinery on this tote can be cut at the router
table with only a straight bit. Keeping with
the theme of simplicity, the narrow drawer
 Dividers slot into dadoes without glue, allowing you
to adjust the size of the tote’s cubbies for large or
is supported by wood runners, sliding along
grooves in the drawer sides. These elements
small tools as needed. combine to create a tote that will come
together quickly yet last you for years.

Illustrations: Bob Zimmerman Woodsmith.com • 43

w277_042.indd 43 12/16/2024 1:14:08 PM

 NOTE: All panels are made
from ½"-thick softwood. The drawer
¼"-dia. x 2" runners are 1⁄8"-thick softwood.
dowel rod The handle is a 1"-dia. hardwood dowel.
The plugs are ¼"-thick softwood

NOTE: Handle is DRAWER

pegged by ¼" #8 x ½" Fh RUNNER a.
dowels woodscrew A TOP VIEW
(½" x 33⁄8")
H I ¼ C ¼
F ¼
HANDLE
(1"-dia. x 16") TALL
DIVIDER Chamfered ¼
(3½" x 5") front edge
SIDE VIEW
D
F
TALL SIDE 4¾
(5½" x 15") PLUGS
(¼" x ¼")
B J
CENTER C ¼
A 33⁄8
DIVIDER SHORT
END (5¼" x 15") DIVIDER
6 (7½" x 12") (3½" x 3")
G
NOTE: Ends ¼
¼
are mirror
images
E
C
BOTTOM
(7" x 15") SHORT SIDE
(3½" x 15") b. E
33⁄8
TOP
TOP VIEW c. 5⁄16 VIEW

1⁄8 E
B F G ¼
¼ END
VIEW
Beginning with the TOTE CASE ¼ ¼

This handy tool tote is a master- place to start. After cutting them following page shows how I did
class in fundamental joinery. to size, head to the drill press to this. Finish the dadoes by squar-
Tongues, grooves, and dadoes make the holes for the handle. ing their ends with a chisel.
will be doing the work here, STOPPED DADOES. I cut the joinery You’ll also need to cut the
interlocking the pieces together. for the ends (shown in detail upper corners to create the tri-
ENDS. As you can see in the ‘d’ on the opposite page) exclu- angular tops. I made the initial
drawings above, most of the sively at the router table. First, I cuts at the band saw, refining the
parts are sandwiched between cut stopped dadoes for the sides profile at the edge sander. Let’s
the ends. This makes a great and divider. The box on the set these pieces aside — we’ll get
back to them later.
CENTER DIVIDER. The next piece

ROUTING THE TONGUES on our list is the center divider

that’s shown in detail ‘f,’ next
page. Rabbets on three sides
Routed Rabbets. The form a tongue. You can see how
a. tongues on many of I cut these at in the box at left.
Backup END VIEW these pieces are made by The tongues have a notch at
block
¼ cutting rabbets on either the top, creating shoulders. To
Backup block side of the edge. To do make these, lower the straight
Waste 1⁄8 this, I used a straight bit bit and nibble out the notch,
at the router table. Using supporting the workpiece with
a backup block helps to a tall fence on a miter gauge or a
3⁄8"
straight bit support the workpiece backer block.
and prevent chipout on Meanwhile, two through
the back end. dadoes and a stopped dado
will accept the smaller dividers.

44 • Woodsmith / No. 277

w277_044.indd 44 12/16/2024 4:37:12 PM

 e.
d.
1½ SIDE
SECTION
VIEW
STOPPED DADOES
NOTE: Right ¼" ¼
side is shown; 2 -rad. 1
left side is ¼"-dia. x
mirrored 1"-dia. 2" dowel
hole rod
H

J
1⁄8
A A
½
NOTE: #8 pilot g.
Grooves hole with TOP VIEW
53⁄8 countersink FIRST: Mark
are ¼" wide
and ¼" deep 33⁄8 ¼ D leading edge of bit
¼
5
SIDE VIEW Leading Edge. Set the fence to the desired
¼
¼ distance from the bit, then use a square to mark
the leading edge of the bit on the table.
f. B TOP VIEW ¼

5 D
1⁄8
53⁄8
¼
B

SIDE
VIEW SECOND: Use
3¼ leading edge to
mark stopping point.

¼
NOTE: Grooves on center divider ¼
are ¼" wide and ¼" deep. Rabbets
are ¼" wide and 1⁄8" deep
Stopping Point. Measure the length of the dado
from the leading edge line and mark the stopping
Cut the stopped dado as you did INTERIOR & ASSEMBLY point with a square against the fence.
on the end pieces. The pieces you’ve made so far
SIDES. The next pieces are the form the main body of the tote.
sides. With the exception of their However, there’s plenty going Waste
width, these pieces are identical. on within as well, beginning
You can see the joinery in details with the dividers. A
‘a’ on the previous page and ‘g’ INTERIOR DIVIDERS. The interior
above. I began by routing the dividers come in two sizes: two THIRD: Clamp
dadoes for the dividers. tall and one short. Each has a on stop block and
Stop make cut
From there, the sides need a rabbeted tongue on either edge. block
rabbet at either end. This creates DRAWER RUNNERS. A pair of soft-
the tongues that will fit into the wood runners guide the drawer
end pieces. After routing those, (detail ‘d’). I sanded a slight Rout the Dadoes. Use a stop block when
set the fence to cut the grooves chamfer on the front ends of making the cuts. This will ensure each dado is
for the bottom, then cut them on these pieces to make it easier to precise and identical on each end.
the sides as well as the ends. insert the drawer. The runners
BOTTOM. The last part of the are screwed on, but I used a bit
case is the bottom panel. This of CA glue first to stick them in divider and bottom, inserting
piece is softwood as well, with place while I installed the screws. the short divider, then bringing
a tongue on each edge to fit into HANDLE. The final piece to make the sides around and capping
the grooves you just cut in the is the handle. After cutting the it off with the second end. Slip
surrounding pieces (detail ‘b’). dowel to length, sand a chamfer the handle in place and secure it
These are made by rabbeting the on each end. Now you’re ready with dowels (detail ‘e’). The tall
perimeter. Finish up the piece by to put things together. dividers will slot in place with-
cutting a groove down the center ASSEMBLY. Begin the glueup at out glue. Finally, glue the plugs
to accept the center divider. one end, fitting in the center in and sand them flush once dry.

Woodsmith.com • 45

w277_044.indd 45 12/16/2024 1:19:16 PM

 DRAWER DIVIDER
(115⁄32" x 3") DRAWER SIDE
O (131⁄32" x 33⁄8")
M

L
DRAWER BACK
(131⁄32" x 1315⁄16")
N
DRAWER BOTTOM
O (3" x 1315⁄16")

M K
a.
DRAWER FRONT TOP VIEW
(131⁄32" x 147⁄16")

¼ O

Drawer NOTE: All drawer

runner parts are made from 1⁄8
dado ½"-thick softwood

NOTE: Right
d.
TOP VIEW
side shown.
Left side M
b. is mirror ¼
NOTE: Right side
mirror image of left c. image 3⁄8 ¼
¼ TOP VIEW
TOP VIEW ¼ 1⁄8 FRONT 1⁄8 1⁄8
K VIEW SIDE VIEW
L
½ ¼ ¼
1⁄8
M ¾
BACK VIEW ¼
BACK VIEW M
¼ ½
L K ¼
¼ ¼ ¼
¼
4½ 4¾
1⁄8

Finish with the DRAWER

The final element of this tote is drawer fronts. After sizing the router table in the box on the
the drawer. The drawer is long workpiece, I cut the through next page. Once that joint is in,
and thin to fit into one side of dadoes that accept the drawer set the front aside for now. We’ll
the tote. Grooves in the sides dividers. However, I chose to get back to it later.
allow it slide along the run- wait on the groove for the bot- DRAWER BACK. The back piece
ners. I chose to use a softwood tom, as I find it better to cut all is nearly identical to the front,
bottom (rather than hardboard these grooves at once. and it has the same through
or plywood) to keep the look LOCKING RABBET. A locking rab- dadoes for the dividers as well.
consistent. A locking rabbet bet joint is a classic choice for a However, rather than a lock-
joint makes for a strong and drawer. It’s a sturdy joint that ing rabbet, a simple rabbeted
appealing front for the drawer remains hidden from the front tongue is all that’s needed to
— which is where I chose to while offering pleasant visual join this with sides (detail ‘b’).
begin this portion of the project. interest from above. The joint is DRAWER SIDES. In this narrow
DRAWER FRONT. Detail ‘c’ above made with just three cuts — you drawer, the sides are rather
shows what needs done on the can see how they’re made at the small pieces, though they have

46 • Woodsmith / No. 277

w277_046.indd 46 12/16/2024 1:20:03 PM

 SIDE VIEW
e.
TWO-STEP LOCKING RABBET
¼ N
5⁄16 Backup a. Backup b.
Fence block
1⁄8 block
TOP VIEW K ¼
5⁄16
½ K

N
FRONT ¼" FRONT 3⁄8"
VIEW straight bit VIEW straight bit

K
some integral joinery (detail K

‘d’). First is the two narrow

dadoes in the inner face of each
side. These accept the tongues
Waste
on the front and back pieces. A
single kerf from a flat-top blade
at the table saw is enough here.
Next, you’ll need to make the Edge Cut. When making the locking Face Cut. To finish cutting the joint,
wide grooves along the outer rabbet, begin with a vertical cut along lay the workpiece on its face and trim
face of each side. These allow the the center of the workpiece’s edge. Use down the inner tongue. Again, using
drawer to travel along the run- a backup block to support the workpiece a backup block makes for a safer
ners we installed earlier. and prevent the back end from chipping and cleaner cut. The inner tongues
Speaking of grooves, it’s time out. A jointer pushblock or featherboard will slot into grooves cut in the sides,
to cut the ones for the drawer also keeps the piece tight against the while the outer tongues will disguise
bottom. Set the fence on your fence throughout the cut. the joint from the front end.
router table, then use a straight
bit to cut the grooves on the
front, back, and sides. tongues into their respective necessary, depending on what I
DRAWER BOTTOM. After sizing grooves and dadoes. While wait- need to put in the tote at the time.
the drawer bottom, cut a rab- ing for the glue to dry, I made the I measured the drawer directly
bet around the perimeter. This drawer dividers. when sizing these pieces, then
forms the tongues that mate DRAWER DIVIDERS. The dividers rabbeted in the tongues and slid
with the front, back, and side are the final pieces of this puz- the finished dividers in place.
pieces, so size them to fit snugly zle. This pair of parts is really FINISH. As a shop project, it’s
in the grooves you just made. just a shorter version of the not strictly necessary to finish
tall dividers we made earlier. this tool tote. That said, a bit of
ASSEMBLY & DIVIDERS Again, I wanted them to be fit in lacquer goes a long way. It adds
With the drawer parts made, without glue. This would allow a pleasant shine and protects
start the glueup by fitting the me to add or remove them as the softwood against dings. W

Materials, Supplies & Cutting Diagram

A Ends (2) 1⁄
2 x 71⁄2 - 12 G Short Divider (1) 1⁄ x 31⁄ - 3
2 2 M Drawer Sides (2) 1⁄ x 131⁄ - 33⁄
2 32 8
B Center Divider (1) 1⁄
2 x 51⁄4 - 15 H Handle (1) 1"-dia. x 16 N Drawer Bottom (1) 1⁄ x 3 - 1315⁄
2 16
C Short Side (1) 1⁄
2 x 31⁄2 - 15 I Drawer Runners (2) 1⁄ x 1⁄ - 33⁄
8 2 8 O Drawer Dividers (2) 1⁄ x 115⁄ - 3
2 32
D Tall Side (1) 1⁄
2 x 51⁄2 - 15 J Plugs (4) 1⁄ x 1⁄ - 1⁄
4 4 4
E Bottom (1) 1⁄ x 7 - 15
2 K Drawer Front (1) 1⁄ x 131⁄ - 147⁄
2 32 16 • (2) 1⁄4"-dia. x 2" Dowels
F Tall Dividers (2) 1⁄ x 31⁄ - 5
2 2 L Drawer Back (1) 1⁄ x 131⁄ - 1315⁄
2 32 16 • (4) #8 x 1⁄2" Fh Woodscrews

¾"x 8¾"- 913⁄16" Pine (4.2 Bd. Ft.)

K M M J
A A E D B L O O
N I
C F F G

Woodsmith.com • 47

w277_046.indd 47 12/16/2024 1:20:26 PM

 DESIGNER
Project

48 • Woodsmith / No. 277 Written by:Phil Huber, Project Design; Chris Fitch

w277_048.indd 48 12/10/2024 4:13:15 PM

 Storage
Bench
Classic joinery, a soft cushion, and
welcome storage create a versatile
seating solution for your home.

S eating usually falls into the relaxing sort (easy chair) or

the purposeful sort (dining or office). I believe there’s
an overlooked third category: transitional. It’s the place
where you put your shoes on before heading out the door
or where you get dressed in the morning. This bench aims
to fill in those gaps.
In-between places usually have several activities going on
at one time. So if the seating can help meet those needs as
well, all the better. Below the cushion, three drawers corral
necessities and provide some organization, as you can see in
the photo below. This hybrid design opens up several places
for this bench in a home: at the door, tucked below a window
in a bedroom, or even as bonus seating for company.
With its function addressed, it’s time to explore the wood-
working underneath that practicality. We used ash for the
visible components. Its light tones keep it from feeling heavy.
There’s enough grain pattern to provide some sepa-
ration from the usual blond wood choices.
Solid wood calls for robust joinery to match. The
main structure is a case study in mortise and tenon
joints. To accommodate the other parts — panels,
dividers, and the seat deck — rabbets, grooves, and
dadoes take their turn. There’s plenty to do, but
none of it is complicated.
The drawers follow a similar pattern for essential,
solid construction. Full-extension slides offer com-
plete access. Since ordinary pulls could snag clothes
and shins, the pulls consist of routed recesses in the
false fronts. It’s a functional choice that also contrib-
utes to the serene appeal of this project.

Spacious drawers run on full-extension slides. The

drawer fronts feature an integrated, routed pull that
creates a snag-free front face to the bench.

Illustrator: Dirk Ver Steeg Woodsmith.com • 49

w277_048.indd 49 12/10/2024 4:14:12 PM

 B ¾ 5⁄8
B NOTE: Legs are
UPPER RAIL made in
(1¼" x 16¾") mirror-image 5⁄8
pairs ¾

A
A ¼ 5⁄8 ¾
¾
LEG
(1¾" x 15") A
C Inside
A faces
Front
A leg
D
END PANEL
(6½" x 14½") A 6
NOTE: 5⁄8 ¾
¼" roundover on all
ends and edges.
Stopped roundover
on inside edge 1 SIDE
VIEW
Back
leg a.
C b.
LOWER RAIL 13⁄8
(1½" x 16¾")
SIDE SECTION VIEW c.
3⁄8
NOTE: Legs are cut 1½
from 1¾"-thick hardwood. B
B ¾
Rails are 1½"-thick hardwood.
Panels are ¼" plywood A ¾

TOP
SECTION 1⁄8 D
VIEW

Stout Parts, 1½
¾ 5⁄8 A ¼

STURDY JOINTS ¼
C
¾ ¼

1 C
Coming from Wisconsin, timber
framing draws my attention. The
A
drawings for this bench give off STOUT LEGS. Each assembly starts
timber framed vibes, just on a with a pair of legs. Mortises and
smaller scale. Frame-like “bents” grooves excavated in the faces pencil to lay out the mortises
link together to make up a barn. and edges house the connecting and grooves. The legs are made
To hold the analogy, this bench components. in mirror-image pairs. The front
has two “bents” that form the Before you start up a power legs each have mortises on two
ends, as you can see above. tool, spend some time with a faces and a groove on one. The
back legs require grooves on two
faces along with the mortises, as
ROUTING STOPPED GROOVES shown in details ‘a’ and ‘b.’
Since the mortises are pretty
square, I used a drill and chop
1 Make a start
FRONT SECTION VIEW
END
approach. For the grooves, the
mark on the SECTION VIEW router table technique shown at
fence here left is what I used. The legs are
A completed with a roundover on
¼
all the ends and edges, though
¾ the inner edge is stopped just
¼" Straight bit
short of the lower mortise.
Begin RAILS & PANELS. Keep your eye
groove
in mortise a. b. sharp while sizing the rails. The
upper rail is narrower than the
Mortise to Mortise. Draw lines on your router table fence to indicate where to start lower rail. The tenons on each
each groove. You’ll hear the bit stop cutting when it moves into the opposite mortise. end are mitered to maximize
their length in the connecting

50 • Woodsmith / No. 277

w277_050.indd 50 12/12/2024 11:14:24 AM

 911⁄16
H E
UPPER STRETCHER
DIVIDER G (1¼" x 38¾")
E (14½" x 8¼") BACK PANEL
H (6½" x 36½")
911⁄16

F
F LOWER STRETCHER
911⁄16 (1½" x 38¾")

NOTE: Stretchers are made from

13⁄8 1⁄8 1½"-thick hardwood. Back panel
TOP VIEW is ¼" plywood. Dividers are ¾" plywood
3⁄8 ¼
¾ E F

H
c. END VIEW
911⁄16
a. ¾ E ¾
E
b.
mortises in the legs. The remain-
ing details are shown in details 3⁄8 1⁄8
E
‘b’ and ‘c.’ ¾ ¾
¾
This includes a groove for a 1⁄8
FRONT VIEW
thin plywood panel. The groove (Inside faces)
aligns with the grooves in the F ¼ F
legs. I fit the rails in place and ¼
F 1
marked the location directly, just ¼
1⁄8
to be sure. ¾
A rabbet formed on the upper
rail cradles the seat. The outer
d. SIDE SECTION VIEW
edges of the rails sport a round- stretchers, as shown in detail ‘c.’
over as well. This same drawing shows that
ASSEMBLY. One more dry assem- only the rear stretchers have
bly is called for in order to zero panel grooves.
in on the size of the panel. Take DADOES & DIVIDERS. A set of dadoes ¼ E
note here that the face grain of along the inside face constitute
the visible panels run horizon- one of the differences in these G ¼
tally throughout the project. parts. You can see these in the H
¼ ½
After sanding the parts, you can drawing above and detail ‘a.’
glue up each end assembly. The dadoes stiffen the seat as
well as house dividers to form
MAKING CONNECTIONS drawer compartments. with the front stretchers, the task
What comes next looks a lot like ASSEMBLY STAGES. The bold may feels comfortable. I glued tenons
what came before. In this stage, want to leap into the final into one of the end assemblies.
the two ends join together. assembly all in one go. A “tor- A few mallet taps ensured the
STRETCHERS. Long stretchers do toise” approach may prove joints were seated.
the major work. Think of these more successful, by the end. Repeat that for the opposite
as extra long rails and you’re I cut the back panel to size and end. With the bench on its feet,
on the right track. The tenons glued it to the rear stretchers. I measured for the final size of
on each end you already know While that mellowed, I gathered the two divider panels. Butter
how to do (details ‘a’ and ‘b’). up some long clamps for stage the dadoes with glue and slip
Other familiar details two. The back assembly now the dividers into place. Pull a few
include the rabbet on the upper acts like one part. So together clamps across the joints.

Woodsmith.com • 51

w277_050.indd 51 12/12/2024 11:21:36 AM

 I FILLER
(3" x 14")

OUTER FRONT/BACK
(5½" x 8¼")
N
N J

14" Full-extension
P drawer slides N
w/screws J

K J
MIDDLE FRONT/BACK P
(5½" x 139⁄16") O
OUTER
OUTER FALSE
BOTTOM FRONT
(13" x 8¼") (57⁄8" x 10")
#8 x 1" Fh K
woodscrew MIDDLE NOTE: Drawer sides, fronts,
FALSE FRONT and backs are ½"-thick
(57⁄8" x 15¾") hardwood. Fillers and false
J fronts are ¾"-thick hardwood.
J M
a. DRAWER SIDE Drawer bottoms are ¼" plywood
(5½" x 14")
J ¼
N
K
c. TOP SECTION VIEW
O
1⁄8 L
¼ MIDDLE BOTTOM J
¼ ½
(13" x 139⁄16")
L ½ K N
FRONT SECTION VIEW b. J J
¼
1½
¼
K ¼ N

M P
d. ¼ ¼
1⁄8" Roundover 1⁄16
TOP M
TOP SECTION VIEW VIEW

¾
Drawers for Storage with unfettered access. The M 1¾
slides do add a wrinkle and an FRONT
BELOW DECKS opportunity (stay tuned).
TOP
VIEW

The three drawers share the VIEW

P
It seems a little dismissive to same size sides. I cut these first. ¼"-Rad.
call the remaining steps “final A narrow dado cut near the front P ¾
details,” but that does sum up end accepts the drawer front, as
FRONT
what’s going on. One of the tasks you can see in detail ‘b.’ The VIEW 15⁄8
is transforming the structure into drawer back is housed in a dado
a comfortable place to sit. The that matches the thickness of the
first order of business however, drawer back. This is shown in The goal is for the tongue to bot-
is to craft drawers. detail ‘c.’ tom out in the dado in order for
DISCREET DRAWERS. The draw- The lengths for the fronts and the drawer box to be square.
ers take a practical turn for backs are determined by the size Cut a groove in the box parts
construction and operation. I of the opening. You also need for the bottom. Once that piece
recommend scrutinizing the to consider the thickness of the is sized, you can glue up the
drawing above to get your drawer slides and the joinery. drawer boxes.
bearings. Essential (not fancy) Calculations complete, you FALSE FRONTS. The wrinkle cre-
joinery forms the drawer boxes. can cut a rabbet on the drawer ated by the use of drawer slides
Full-extension metal drawer fronts. The resulting tongue is that we need to conceal the
slides provide smooth operation should fit the dado in the side. slides and cover the gap around

52 • Woodsmith / No. 277

w277_052.indd 52 12/10/2024 4:16:29 PM

 the drawers at the front. The NOTE: Seat deck
is made from ¾" plywood
solution is an applied false front. SEAT DECK
(14¾" x 36¾")
Here’s where the opportunity 3" Upholstered Cushion
Q
(17" x 39")
comes in. Protruding drawer See sources, page 66
pulls get in the way if you’re
sitting on the bench. A routed
drawer pull provides access and
a clear surface.
Use detail ‘d’ on the previous
page to make a template for each
drawer size. Yes you could get by
with a single size template, but
in my opinion scaling the pull
looks better. a. b.
103⁄32 ¾
The pulls are formed with
a finger grip bit. Make passes TOP Q FRONT SECTION VIEW
VIEW
across the opening to remove the 3⁄8
waste. A final pass around the ¼
perimeter cleans up the pull and 3⁄8
Q
forms a ledge for your fingers.
(detail ‘a’). A pair of dadoes
TOP IT OFF interlock with the dividers, as in
Leaving the top until last allows snug fit instead. The deck helps detail ‘b.’ This rigidity gives you
you to see what’s going on while keep the bench square. A tighter a sag-free sitting experience. On
you install and fine-tune the fit makes for stronger joints with top of that, we ordered a custom
drawers. A plywood seat deck the rails and stretchers. sized and upholstered cushion.
caps off the bench. It’s tempting The details show corner You can make one yourself, if
to cut it a little small. Go for a notches that account for the legs you choose. W

Materials, Supplies & Cutting Diagram

A Legs (4) 13⁄4 x 13⁄4 - 15 H Dividers (2) 3⁄ ply. - 141⁄ x 81⁄
4 2 4 O Outer Bottoms (2) 1⁄ ply. - 13 x 81⁄
4 4
B Upper Rails (2) 11⁄2 x 11⁄4 - 163⁄4 I Fillers (2) 3⁄ x 3 - 14
4 P Outer False Fronts (2) 3⁄ x 57⁄ - 10
4 8
C Lower Rails (2) 11⁄2 x 11⁄2 - 163⁄4 J Sides (6) 1⁄ x 51⁄ - 14
2 2 Q Seat Deck (1) 3⁄ ply. - 143⁄ x 363⁄
4 4 4
D End Panels (2) 1⁄ ply. - 61⁄ x 141⁄ K Middle Front/Back (2) 1 ⁄2 x 51⁄2 - 139⁄16
4 2 2
E Upper Stretchers (2) 11⁄2 x 11⁄4 - 383⁄4 L Middle Bottom (1) 1⁄4 ply. - 13 x 139⁄16 • (3 pair) 14" Drawer Slides w/Screws
F Lower Stretchers (2) 11⁄2 x 11⁄2 - 383⁄4 M Middle False Front (1) 3⁄ x 57⁄ - 153⁄
4 8 4 • (12) #8 x 1" Fh Woodscrews
G Back Panel (1) 1⁄ ply. - 61⁄ x 361⁄ N Outer Fronts/Backs (4) 1⁄ x 51⁄ - 81⁄ • (1) 3" x 17" - 39" Upholstered Cushion
4 2 2 2 2 4

1¾" x 4" - 36" Ash (2 Bd. Ft.)

A A

1½" x 6" - 60" Ash (5 Bd. Ft.)

B E ALSO NEEDED: One 48"x 48"
Sheet of ¼" Ash Plywood,
C F One 48"x 48" Sheet of ¾" Ash Plywood
¾" x 6½" - 60" Ash (2.7 Bd. Ft.)
I
P M P
I

½" x 6" - 96" Ash (4 Sq. Ft.)

J J J J J J

½" x 6" - 72" Ash (3 Sq. Ft.)

K K N N N N

Woodsmith.com • 53

w277_052.indd 35 12/10/2024 4:17:13 PM

 DESIGNER
Project

is
e,
lt
p
d
g
nt
t-
le
w-
All

54 • Woodsmith / No. 277 Written by: Rob Petrie; Project Design: John Doyle

w277_054.indd 54 12/17/2024 10:48:54 AM

  When closed, this wall cabinet takes up
remarkably little space, with a sleek design to
 The upper doors hide a cupboard that offers plenty of
storage, while the lower door folds down to create a
match any room you choose for it. worksurface, perfect for books and laptops.

Fold-Up Wall Cabinet

This gorgeous cabinet conceals a folding worksurface behind its
mahogany exterior, making for an attractive and functional piece.

B oth in the shop and at home, vertical storage is one of my favorite

kinds. When furniture making is your hobby, it’s easy to accumu-
late enough pieces to fill your house, but vertical storage occupies a neat
niche — namely, the wall. Not only does this minimize the square-foot-
age taken up, but it also allows an end table or sideboard to be placed
below. More importantly though, it allows a bit of creative design to
elevate the function of a project, as with the wall cabinet you see here.
FOLDING WORKSURFACE. The word “worksurface” will likely conjure images
of your bench or an assembly table, but in the home these can take
many forms. A desk (obviously), a bar counter, or a coffee table all fit
that bill, especially today, when remote work is more common than
ever. The lower door on this cabinet drops down to create an instant
worksurface, perfect for cookbooks in the kitchen, a laptop in the living
room, or even just to jot down the shopping list before you head out the
door for the day.
A CLASSIC CASE. When closed up, this cabinet is subtle. At less than a foot
deep, you’ll hardly notice the room it takes up. The tightly-grained
panels, while still pleasant, don’t scream for attention like a more
highly figured grain would. All in all, this cabinet makes a fine addi-  Rare-earth magnets hold the doors closed,
providing more than enough strength to secure
tion to any room where an instant workstation comes in handy. the sturdy lower door.

Illustrations: Becky Kralicek Woodsmith.com • 55

w277_054.indd 55 12/17/2024 12:31:09 PM

 a.
Setting up the SIDES
Back edge

½ TOP
VIEW
¼ The joinery on the sides is what
½"-rad. ¼ A unites this case. As you can see
in the illustrations at left, three
stopped dadoes in each together
b. with through-grooves along the
SIDE VIEW
back edges set the stage for the
3¾ 5¼
pieces that will come later.
¼"-deep 1½ SIDES. Begin by gluing up the
stopped
slots ¾ panels for the sides, then cut-
ting them to size. Once you’ve
finished, you’ll need to lay out
A the joinery for these pieces, as
SIDES
(9¾" x 333⁄8") well as the angled top and radi-
used corners on each. You can
find the dimensions for these in
A details ‘a’ and ‘b.’
SIDE JOINERY. You can see in the
box below how I made the join-
¾ ery and shaped the sides. I began
85⁄8
with the stopped dadoes, as in
30½
Figure 1. I put together a simple
NOTE: Right side guide from a few scrap pieces to
is shown; left help me rout the dadoes. A trim
side is a mirror
image of right router and pattern bit will do
the rest of the work. Square the
1711⁄16 corners of the dadoes up with a
21⁄64"-dia. hole 15⁄16
for bushing chisel after routing.
¾ With the dadoes in place, I
NOTE: The sides next cut the grooves up along
½"-rad.
are ¾"-thick the back edge of either piece (as
hardwood 5 4½
in Figure 2). Rabbeted tongues
in the back panel and rails slip
into these grooves for assembly.

SIDE PANEL JOINERY

1 A 2 3
A

a. Layout
line

Guide held with

double-sided a.
tape ¼" dado A
¼
Routing stack
¼
guide ½" NOTE: Stay
pattern on waste
bit side of
layout line

Routed Dadoes. To rout the dadoes, I Back Grooves. The grooves that Shape the Tops. Rough-cut the
used a few scrap pieces to make a guide, accept the back pieces were made tops with a jig saw, then finish
clearing the waste with a pattern bit. with a dado blade at the table saw. shaping at the edge sander.

56 • Woodsmith / No. 277

w277_056.indd 56 12/17/2024 10:52:06 AM

 a. TOP SECTION VIEW
B BACK RAIL
½ TOP (2¾" x 24½") 2¾
31⁄8 SECTION E
VIEW
E 3⁄8
A
B
B 3⁄8 ¾
A b.

c. BACK
¼ UPPER SHELVES PANEL
½"-rad. (85⁄8" x 24½") (24½" x 283⁄8")
E B D
SIDE 25⁄8 31⁄8
SECTION VIEW

B
D Bullnose
B 7¾
TOP profile
½
SECTION
VIEW LOWER
3⁄8 d. SHELF
Finally, shape the perimeter of ¾ D (8" x 24½") #8 x 1½" Fh
woodscrew
the side pieces.
A
I used a jig saw E
C
to rough cut the waste on the
angled top free, then finished ¼ 2
and rounded the two front cor- 3½
Bushing
ners at the edge sander. (see Hanging the
Doors on pg. 59)
SHELVES & BACK NOTE: The shelves
With the sides constructed, it’s and back rails are ¾"-thick E
hardwood. The back
time to bring our focus inward. panel is ¾" plywood
Three shelves slide into the
dadoes, backed by a plywood shelves (detail ‘c’). I did this at into the grooves in the side pan-
panel with hardwood rails. the router table. els. Rabbeted edges also overlap
SHELVES. After cutting the BACK PANEL & RAILS. The back of between the panel and rails, join-
shelves to size, there are two the cabinet is assembled from ing them together (details ‘c’ and
items to address, beginning with three pieces: one plywood panel ‘d’). I cut these at the table saw, as
the notches that form shoulders capped by two hardwood rails, in Figure 2 below.
on the fronts. You can see how I giving the impression of solid With the case made, it can be
made these in Figure 1. hardwood from the outside. glued up. Take note that screws
Next, you’ll need to bull- After sizing, I cut rabbets on their driven in through the back sup-
nose the front edge of the three ends to form the tongues that fit port the shelves.

SHELVES & BACK RAILS

1 2

Auxiliary a. END VIEW Auxiliary E

rip fence rip fence
B C ¼ a.
END VIEW
¾
¾" dado
¾" dado blade E
blade

Shoulder Notch. To make the notches on the shelves, I used Rail Rabbets. Rabbets along the back rails create
a dado blade buried in an auxiliary rip fence, along with a tall tongues that allow them to join with the plywood back
auxiliary fence on my miter gauge to support the workpiece. and sides. Cut these at the table saw as well.

Woodsmith.com • 57

w277_056.indd 57 12/17/2024 10:52:49 AM

 TOP SECTION VIEW
10½
7⁄16 Hinge
Concealed hinge 3⁄8
and bushing
F
Magnetic
3⁄8 catch
A ¼

G
a.
NOTE: Hinge
pins slot F
1¼
b. FRONT
into plastic UPPER DOOR SECTION VIEW
bushings (1115⁄16" x 1115⁄16")
B

1⁄8" F
chamfer A

NOTE: Use slotted holes

to adjust for 1⁄16" gap
on each side. Drive in
Magnetic catch center screw to set door
and latch
1¼ c.

SIDE SECTION
11⁄8" VIEW
cone knob

F
1⁄8" Magnetic
chamfer catch
Concealed Rare-
hinge earth
magnet

G
LOWER DOOR d.
(237⁄8" x 175⁄8" )
1⁄8" x 7⁄16" silicone SIDE SECTION VIEW
bumper
NOTE: The
doors are made C
from ¾"-thick
hardwood
G

35⁄16

Finishing the CABINET

Once the clamps come off of the Once these doors are cut, ease As with the upper doors,
case, the three doors you see their front edges with a chamfer, cut the lower door to size once
above are next. These will be then set them aside for now. you’ve determined the dimen-
inset in the case and held by sim- LOWER DOOR. The story of the sions, then chamfer the front
ple, concealed hinges. But before lower door is much the same edges. Now, gather up a drill,
addressing the hardware, we’ll as the ones above. I measured a few bits, and the hardware.
need to size the doors. the case pieces directly to deter- Hanging the doors comes next.
UPPER DOORS. A pair of doors mine the proper width of this
fit between the upper shelves, piece, but the length will need HARDWARE & HANGING
cordoning off the upper cup- to extend beyond the lower There’s no big trick to installing
board. While the dimensions shelf (as in detail ‘d’). This the doors. The concealed hinges
of the doors are shown above, extra length will brace the door you can see above and on the
I recommend taking the mea- against the lower shelf when next page are easy to install after
surements directly, allowing the opened, allowing it to be used you’ve determined the locations
doors a 1⁄16" gap on each side. as a worksurface. for the bushings.

58 • Woodsmith / No. 277

w277_058.indd 58 12/17/2024 12:31:46 PM

 MAGNETIC CATCHES. Before hang-
ing the doors, it's a good idea to
install the magnets. I used one
INSTALLING THE HINGES
magnetic catch on each door
(detail ‘c,’ previous page). The Concealed Hinges. Each
magnets screw in place, and door receives a pair of Steel hinge
plate
they'll be easier to install now, hinges. The hinge plates are
before the doors are hung. screwed directly onto the
HANGING THE DOORS. Details ‘a’ doors, with wide slots that
and ‘b’ on the previous page make them easy to adjust
show the positions of the hinges when hanging. To set
Plastic bushing
on the upper doors. Detail ‘d' the hinge, drive in
shows the hinge on the lower the center screw.
door. First, locate the hinge
plates on the doors and drill out
pilot holes. Lay out the locations
of the matching bushings on the
side panels and drill out clear-
ance holes for them as well.
To hang the doors, insert the Panhead screws
bushings in their holes and hinge
pins in the bushings. Screw in
the outer two screws on each
hinge, leaving room to adjust the
doors as needed. Once you have
them located, drive in the center plates have a spur that just needs cabinet to your wall of choice.
screws to set the hinges in place. pressed into a clearance hole. First though, it’s a good idea to
Last come the knobs and the Locate them so they'll contact take care of the finish. Once that's
catch plates. For the knobs, drill the magnets, then install them. done, screws driven through the
out the clearance holes and HANGING THE CABINET. Now you’re back rails will secure this beauti-
thread them in place. The catch nearly ready to mount the ful, fold-up desk. W

Materials, Supplies & Cutting Diagram

A Sides (2) 3⁄ x 93⁄ - 333⁄
4 4 8 E Back Rails (2) 3⁄ - 23⁄ x 241⁄
4 4 2 • (9) #8 x 11⁄2" Fh Woodscrews
B Upper Shelves (2) 3⁄ x 85⁄ - 241⁄
4 8 2 F Upper Doors (2) 3 ⁄4 x 1115⁄16 - 1115⁄16 • (3 pr.) 19⁄16" Concealed Hinges
C Lower Shelf (1) 3⁄ x 8 - 241⁄
4 2 G Lower Door (1) 3⁄ x 237⁄ - 175⁄
4 8 8 • (3) 11⁄8" Cone Knobs
D Back Panel (1) 3⁄ ply. - 241⁄ x 283⁄
4 2 8 • 1 7
(2) ⁄8" x ⁄16" Silicon Bumpers • (3 pr.) Magnetic Catches
¾" x 10" - 96" Mahogany (5.0 Bd. Ft.)

B
A A

¾" x 10" - 84" Mahogany (4.4 Bd. Ft.)

E ALSO NEEDED: One 48"
B C E x 48" sheet of 3⁄4" Baltic
birch plywood

¾" x 6" - 48" Mahogany (1.5 Bd. Ft.)

F F F F

¾" x 8" - 60" Mahogany (2.5 Bd. Ft.)

G G G

Woodsmith.com • 59

w277_058.indd 59 12/17/2024 12:32:13 PM

 WOODWORKING
Technique

T
v
d
s
f

A Set of
t
f
h

Files & Rasps

t
r
r
m
2

Coarse
rasp Medium
rasp
T he mention of hand tools
inspires visions of finely
crafted planes or dovetail saws.
Hand tools encompass a broad
types of tools are important for
shaping a workpiece well.
I don’t woodwork to save time,
but my shop time is precious
Half-round range of shop necessities. Not and I would rather avoid fruit-
file
all of them are pricey works of less effort. When I need to shape
art. In my shop, a small set of a surface, I reach for the coarsest
files and rasps are trusty side- tool that can do the job. Here I’m
kicks to create complex shapes. working on a custom saw handle
RASPS & FILES. The overall shape that serves as a good example of
Round of rasps and files are similar. how these tools work.
file
The shape of the cutting sur- TWO RASPS. After cutting out the
faces sets them apart. Rasps handle, I’m focusing on two
have individual teeth punched tasks: Removing blade marks
into the surface. The cutting and then shaping the edges for a
edges of files are linear and run comfortable grip. A coarse rasp
diagonally across the blade. I cuts wood quickly. The pro-
would argue that having both file of the rasp is a half-round.

60 • Woodsmith / No. 277 Written by: Phil Huber

w277_060.indd 60 12/9/2024 3:04:17 PM

 1 2 3

 Heavy shaping should be done with a fast-

cutting, coarse rasp.
 Adetails
finer rasp (then a file) are used to refine
and remove tooth marks.
 Athanroundthe filehalf-round
tucks into tighter curves
file.

This two-in-one design is more surface texture. This rasp also

versatile. The rasp has a han- has a half-round profile. (Turn
dle at one end. However, you to page 66 for sources.)
should also grip the tip of the A BRACE OF FILES. A half-round file
rasp for better control (Step 1). cleans up the stubbly surface left
With all these tools, make long by the second rasp. By now you
strokes using the full length of have the idea. Once you create
the tool and along the edge. A a uniform pattern, the work is
few slow-motion swipes will done. Step 3 shows a round file
help you develop the moves. that completes my set. It’s job is
Don’t be alarmed at the condi- only for tight spaces. Then it’s
tion of the surface. The medium sandpaper time.
rasp softens the furrows and Files and rasps come in a range
refines the shape in just a few of formats (check out the ones
minutes worth of work. Step
2 shows the difference in the
below). However these four
should never leave your side. W  Abristles
file card has fiber bristles on one side and wire
on the other to keep files and rasps clean.

REFINING WITH RIFFLERS

One of Each. The blades on rifflers feature rasp Blending. Rifflers work best in tight
or file teeth on curved surfaces with flat, round, spaces to shape surfaces and ease Rifflers come
in sets, refer to
triangular, or square cross sections. transitions from adjoining sections. sources, page 66

Woodsmith.com • 61

w277_060.indd 61 12/12/2024 11:37:06 AM

 ROUTER
Workshop

Spline Joinery
T he standard Woodsmith method for creat-
ing frame and panel assemblies has been
stub tenon and groove joinery. In this approach,
the thickness of the plywood panel drives the
size of the groove and the matching stub tenons.
I’ve been taking that process one step further.
Why not use plywood splines instead of a sepa-
rate step to make stub tenons? The concept is
similar to loose tenons or biscuits.
 Aworkstation
slot cutter turns your router table into a joinery
for simple, strong assemblies.
Related to this, I’ve noticed that MDF core ply-
wood measures very close to 1/4". This means

62 • Woodsmith / No. 277 Written by: Phil Huber

w277_062.indd 62 12/13/2024 2:21:48 PM

 1 2

 Mark a triangle on paired stiles and rails, with the apex point toward
the top, to keep the parts oriented correctly for joinery and assembly.
 Setup blocks offer a physical reference point for setting router
bits to the correct height.

you can form the groove in a 3

single pass with a dado blade, or
in my preference, a slot cutter in
the router table.
There’s another advantage
lurking here. Since you don’t
need to create an integral stub
tenon, sizing parts is simpler.
They’re based on direct mea-
surements and no accounting for
joinery. This allows you to con-
centrate on accurate crosscuts.
Forming the joinery details won’t
affect the length of parts.
STRAIGHTFORWARD LAYOUT. In this
joinery method, power tool
setup replaces detailed layout
marks on the workpiece. Your
focus here is making sure to cut
those details in the correct edge  Using the router table fence along with the bearing on the bit provides a smooth entry and exit of
the workpiece as it is cut. A steel rule helps you see when the two are aligned.
and end of the parts.
The way I learned to do that table, the triangle tells me the you can see in Step 3. I have it
is to mark a triangle on match- appropriate face is up. It’s like a set for the maximum depth of
ing pieces, as shown in Step 1. secret code. cut, 1/2" in this case.
Arrange the frame members ROUTER TABLE SETUP. At the router ROUTING GROOVES. With the router
how you want them to appear table, I install a 1/4" slot cutter. table programmed, the actual
in the final assembly. Bring the The bit’s height is determined routing is basic work. I use push
two rails together and draw a by a setup block (Step 2). I’m pads to provide consistent pres-
triangle across the two parts. using a 1/4" block here to center sure as I rout along the inside
Repeat this for the stiles. the groove in my workpieces. edges of the stiles and rails.
The triangles tell you a lot. The Since the groove is cut in a sin- The ends of the rails receive
tip of the triangle points to the gle pass, an exact center isn’t grooves, too. For this narrow
top of the assembly. The edge something you need to fret over. cut, I use a backer block to keep
that the triangle crosses is the Now it’s time to bring in the the piece square to the bit and to
inside edge of the frame. And fence. Position the fence to align stop tearout. This is shown on
when I’m standing at the router with the bearing on the bit, as the previous page.

Woodsmith.com • 63

w277_062.indd 63 12/13/2024 2:23:00 PM

 1

Arrange the parts of the

assembly prior to glueup
so that they’re in the
correct orientation.

 Apply glue to the slot on the end of the rails and insert the
spline. Allow the glue to set up before proceeding.

2 3 4

 Run a bead of glue into the

grooves in the two rails then fit
 The final step in the process is to bring in the stiles.
After brushing glue onto the exposed splines, add
 Draw the clamps tight to close up the
joints. Trim the exposed splines flush
them over the ends of the panel. more glue to the groove in the stiles. after the glue dries.

ASSEMBLY past the bottom of the groove. PRIMED FOR CUSTOMIZING

The photo series above walks Otherwise the panel won’t fit. The process that I’ve outlined
you through the assembly pro- Allow the glue to set up for creates a square-edge assembly
cess. In the upper left photo, I’ve 20-30 minutes. Now the splines that blends in with a lot of styles.
set out all the parts that need to act like integral tenons and you It doesn’t have to end there.
come together and in their cor- have fewer loose pieces. Think of it as the base model
rect orientation along with the The second step is to glue the ready for a custom trim package.
four splines. rails to the panel. This this is The photos on the next page
The splines are cut a hair nar- shown in Step 2. The edges of the highlight a couple of options.
rower than the combined depth splines and panel should align, Best of all, these details are cre-
of the grooves. The shoulder of or the panel can be slightly inset. ated with common, inexpensive
the joint will close tight with a The final stage is to glue this bits you probably already have.
barely there gap on the end. center section to the outer stiles, Feel free to use those ideas, but
THREE PARTS. I divide the glueup as in Steps 3 and 4. consider them as representatives
into three stages. The first is to As you tighten the clamps, be of a range of other paths to take.
glue the splines into the ends of sure the faces are flush. You need CUSTOM MOLDING. A dramatic
the rails, as in Step 1. Make sure just enough clamp pressure to bolection molding flows over the
that the splines don’t extend close the joints. inner edge of the stiles and rails

64 • Woodsmith / No. 277

w277_064.indd 64 12/13/2024 2:24:24 PM

 DRESS IT UP!
1 2

Cove & Bead. Rout a large, complex Complete the Circle. A point cut
profile along each edge of an extra-wide roundover bit forms a bead at the top of
blank. An ogee profile would work as well. the profile ending with a fillet.

3 4

Make The Step. A straight bit cuts a Rip & Miter. Cut the molding free of the
groove that matches the offset between blank at the table saw. Then miter pieces
the frame and the panel. to wrap around the frame.

Just Bead It. Rout a bead profile on oversize blanks. Rip thin strips from the blank and
miter them to wrap around the inside of the frame, as shown at left.

and onto the panel. This expres- small, applied bead molding to master details. What I’ve tried
sive molding adds depth to the tucks into the junction of the to do here is to show how one
whole assembly (Steps 1-4). frame and the panel. technique opens up opportuni-
SIMPLE, SUBTLE. The lower photos It’s helpful to focus on one ties for consistency, confidence,
show a second option. Here a aspect of woodworking in order and creative expression. W

Woodsmith.com • 65

w277_064.indd 65 12/13/2024 2:25:28 PM

 Sources
Most of the materials and supplies you’ll need to build the projects are available
MAIL at hardware stores or home centers. For specific products or hard-to-find items,
ORDER take a look at the sources listed here. You’ll find each part number listed by the
SOURCES company name. See the left margin for contact information.
Project supplies may
be ordered from the
following EPOXY INLAYS (p.12) going to the Hairpin Legs drop- We ordered a cushion from Cus-
companies: As mentioned in the article, down menu and selecting 8” tom Cushions (see margin). You
Woodsmith Store I bought 3"× 6"× 6" turning Black Powder Coat legs. can specify fabric, size, batting,
800-444-7527
store.woodsmith.com blanks from Craft Supplies USA. The bar top was stained with and more. For ours, we selected
And liquid and powder tints Old Masters “Espresso” gel a 3"-thick polyurethane foam
Rockler
800-279-4441 designed for use with epoxy are stain. Then the top and the body cushion with a boxed edge and
rockler.com available from Bonstone. of the bar was finished with two fiber batting. The fabric is Sun-
Amana Tool coats of lacquer. The lattice was brella “Laurel” (145844-0004).
800-445-0077 JAPANESE JOINERY (p.16) painted with Benjamin Moore’s The finish on the bench is spray
amanatool.com
Dorian Bracht’s Japanese Join- “Woodstock Tan” (HC-20). lacquer to keep the pale tones
amazon.com ery can be purchased from of the ash. A water-based fin-
Bonstone a number of online retailers SOJI CABINET (p.34) ish like Old Masters “Masters
800-425-2214 and bookstores. Check at your • Lee Valley Armor” provides a similar look.
Bonstone.com
local retailer or search online Black Shelf Pins . . . . . . 05H2042
Craft Supplies USA to find a copy for yourself. 1⁄ " Magnet Set . . . . . . . 99K3310
4 FOLD-DOWN CABINET (p.54)
800-551-8876
woodturnerscatalog.com • Horton Brasses The mahogany used in the
GREAT GEAR (p.22) 2" Butt Hinges . . . . . . . . . CP-11 fold-down wall cabinet was
Custom Cushions
800-528-4576 As of the time of writing, the • Eshoji.com finished with two coats of tung
customcushions.com inline clamps from Milescraft Kozo Mulberry Paper Silk . S131 oil, darkening it slightly to
DK Hardware are not yet available for pur- Double Sided Tape. . . . . . . . Y1A contrast with the Baltic birch
877-509-8040 chase, and don’t have an item We selected the “Antique” fin- used on the back. We followed
dkhardware.com
number for me to provide you ish for the hinges from Horton that by applying a couple coats
Eshoji.com with. However, by the time Brasses. The cabinet, doors, and of spray lacquer over the piece.
414-367-2501
you’re reading this, they will lattice was sprayed with a cou- • Rockler
Hairpin Legs be available on Milescraft’s ple of coats of lacquer before the Concealed Hinges . . . . . . . . . 30361
614-342-0586
hairpinlegs.com website alongside their other soji paper was attached to the • Amazon
clamping options. back side of the door. Magnetic Catches . . 761710527118
Horton Brasses
860-635-4400 • Kreg • DK Hardware
horton-brasses.com Mortise Mate . . . . . . . . KLTJ100 SOFTWOOD TOOL TOTE (p.42) 11⁄8" Cone Knobs . . . 760923282845
Lee Valley • Milescraft We the tool tote you see on
800-871-8158 CamStop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4031 page 42 two coats of spray lac- RASPS & FILES (p.60)
leevalley.com
CamStopXL . . . . . . . . . . . . 4032 quer, however even just a few • Lee Valley
Kreg HoldDown 100 . . . . . . . . . 4035 coats of tung oil would make 8" Rasp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62W2508
800- 447-8638
kregtool.com HoldDown 200 . . . . . . . . . 4036 an adequate and attractive fin- File Cleaner. . . . . . . . . . . . . 61K0201
MultiStop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4034 ish for this project. • Amazon
Milescraft
224-227-6930 AngleStop . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4033 8" Coarse Rasp . . . . . B001G5TYGE
milescraft.com STORAGE BENCH (p.49) 8" Round File . . . . . . .B0001P0OD2
McMaster-Carr ATOMIC BAR (p.28) • Lee Valley • McMaster-Carr
630-833-0300 • Lee Valley Finger Grip Bit . . . . . . . 16J7274 Half-Round File . . . . . . . . .4221A13
mcmaster.com
Mahogany Banding . . .41A0101 • McMaster-Carr • Woodcraft
Old Masters We ordered the hair pin legs 14" Drawer Slides . . . 11435A13 Riffler Set . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17J55
712-737-3436
myoldmasters.com online at Hairpinlegs.com by
Woodcraft
800-225-1153
woodcraft.com

66 • Woodsmith / No. 277

w277_066.indd 66 12/16/2024 10:22:12 AM

 EXCELLENT
ACCURACY
& RELIABILITY
Quality machines with
proven performance. grizzly.com/shopfox

TWO
YEAR
WARRANTY

Available at these fine retailers:

& MORE!
See website for details

GRIZZLY SHOP FOX_WS273_FULL PAGE.indd 1 4/ /24 :1 AM

 Learn more
shapertools.com/origin

CNC
PERFORMANCE
HANDTOOL Precise Joinery

FOOTPRINT Custom Templates

No computer programming required

Mortise & Tenon
Works alongside other shop tools

Portable and easy to store

Shaper Origin brings best-in-class portability

and precision to any job. Create tight-fitting joinery,
custom inlays, install hardware, make custom
Hardware Installation Fine Furniture
templates and more.

SHAPER_WS277.indd 1 12/5/24 10:1 AM