How to create the deal environment
Before choosing the best place to work with the Eyelashes Extension, pay attention to some
details about light, heat and mainly humidity, try to work keeping the ambient humidity between
45% and 55% and the temperature between 71ºC and 77°C, the humidity and temperature affect
the process of bonding and applying the wires, in addition to the durability of the stretch.
For this, have a hygrometer close to you while you are bonding and always monitor these
temperatures and humidity.
Your environment should be well ventilated and you should preferably have an air conditioner to
keep the temperature controlled and a dehumidifier if you work in very humid regions or a
humidifier for drier days.
The advantage of having an air conditioner is that it helps to dehumidify the environment and
you can always regulate the temperature.
Curvatures of Eyelashes
Stretching wires are available in several different curvatures, the most used are C, CC, D.
Thicknesses
There is a wide variety of thicknesses to work with.
Thickness 0.05 and 0.07 are the most used for RUSSIAN VOLUME, that fuller thread by thread as
we mentioned at the beginning of this booklet.
These thicknesses are ideal for forming fans in groups of wires, which are assembled on time by
the professional. However, the focus here is the classic strand by strand that must be mastered
first and then move on to Russian volume.
Thickness 0.10
Used for 2D volume what is the Russian volume made of 2 wires where a fan with 2 wires of
thickness 0.10 is formed.
Thickness up to 0.10 can be used in the classic thread by thread, only one thread for each
natural thread. However, the effect will be very subtle since they are thin and don't add
much volume when used one by one.
Thickness 0.15
It is the most used thickness, it is the one that adapts to most people.
Consider a joker thickness that leaves a very beautiful and natural effect.
They are a thickness that you should always have.
Thickness 0.20
They are a thicker thread, which not every natural thread supports. Despite causing a
fuller/dramatic effect, assess whether the natural strands are already thick and will
withstand this thickness.
Thickness 0.25
It is not a highly recommended thickness, and it is very rare to find natural threads that
support this thickness, I try to work with 0.15 or 0.20
Thicknesses
The length of the wires varies from 4mm to 22mm, you can even find smaller wires and larger
wires, but the most suitable measures to work with are 8mm to 14mm.
Work with at least 3 lengths. A stretch
done in one piece to the same length does
not looks harmonious and not even
natural.
Mapping
The Mapping is the mapping of the threads that will be applied in size and curvature, forming a
unique style for each client, which is why it is so important in the visagism part.
Visagism is the art of creating a personal image that reveals a person's inner qualities, according
to their physical characteristics and the principles of visual language (harmony and aesthetics).
By planning the extension style to be used you will be able to change a look and give your client a
perfect set of extensions for her physical features.
Mapping, that is, analyzing and correctly choosing the extension style that most values the client
is what will differentiate you from other professionals.
Take into account the shape of the client's eyes, choose the style that best suits her and work
with the lengths to reach the desired map.
Below is an example of Mapping using lengths from 8mm to 12mm and also working with
curvatures C and D to the same extent.
Tweezers Models
Straight and curved: These are the ideal tweezers to perform eyelash extensions.
Straight tweezers are ideal for isolation, generally used in the left hand.
The curved tweezers are ideal for picking up the threads and making the collage, it is usually used
in the right hand or whichever hand fits best.
The parts are made of stainless steel and must be cleaned with 70% alcohol and neutral soap after
the procedures, being able to use the glue remover itself to remove possible residues that remain
from the collage.
Avoid dropping the tweezers, they have very thin tips and if they fall they can dent and harm your
work, consequently losing the tweezers
Now We're Going To Talk A Little About Glue And How To Keep It
Protected.
GLUE
Glue is one of the most important points in the
eyelash extension procedure and we need some
special care for it to perform well.
Glue drying time
Drying time varies between brands and types of
glue, choose the one that suits your work pace.
If you are just starting out, you can use a glue with
a slower curing time of 3-4 seconds.
When you are working quickly, and you are more
secure, you can use a glue that has a faster curing
time of 5 to 1 second for example.
Tips
Shake the bottle well before use.
Do not use excess glue; the more glue the more chances of burning and allergies use the correct
amount.
Take care that your client does not open her eyes during the entire procedure, as the stretching
glue releases a gas that causes burning and eye irritation.
Faster drying glues generally cause more sting.
You can take a break and use a hand fan during the process if your client is uncomfortable.
But take care that it does not open during the entire gluing of the lashes.
Remover Micro Brush
The remover is used to remove eyelash They are synthetic fiber brushes, also known as
extensions and maintain them, and most sticks ideal for applying remover and primer.
removers work on different brands of glue.
Pump and Cleaning Foam
Before starting eyelash extensions, you must clean the threads as indicated in the video lesson
and also clean the upper eyelid to remove all oiliness.
This cleaning can be done with neutral Johnson shampoo (yellow). Just dilute the shampoo with a
little water and put it in a Pump, which is its own packaging to make the mixture come out in the
form of foam.
Dilution: 30ml of water to 5 drops of shampoo, always remembering to do this mixture weekly.
Primer
The primer also has the function of
sanitizing the wires before the procedure.
Some people use it, while others only clean
with shampoo, it's up to you.
Prime removes natural oils produced by our
body and makeup and cosmetics residues,
this cleaning ensures fast and effective
adhesion of the stretching eyelashes,
allowing your glue to have as much adhesion
as possible.
Eyelash cycle
Each hair has its own growth cycle, similar to what happens to other hairs on our body
ANAGEN PHASE: growth phase that lasts between 30 and 45 days.
CATAGEN PHASE: during this phase or cycles, hair follicles stop growing. It lasts between 2 to 3
weeks.
TELOGEN PHASE: resting phase, prior to hair loss. Extends up to 100 days.
We naturally lose between 3 to 4 natural hairs a day.
Maintenance
Maintenance is carried out in the same way as the 1st application, so removal is not necessary,
only replacement of the strands that have fallen out, some extensions can last up to 30 days
without requiring maintenance. Doing maintenance every 3 weeks this time extends to 6 months
using direct extensions.
Some people prefer to give their eyelashes a month break after 6 months of direct use and
maintenance, but if they are careful and clean daily, they can leave this break for a year or
choose not to take a break, since eyelashes renew themselves frequently.
Always keep in mind that your client needs to have 30% to 40% of the threads from the previous
application on the day of maintenance, if she arrives with a smaller amount, you should charge for
a new application.
If this happens, it's good for you to check with her if she took good care of the extension if she
used a waterproof mascara, make-up remover or something that may have impaired the durability
of the extension.
Guidelines for Greater Durability
DO NOT USE MASCARA NEVER LIGHT A CIGARETTE, LIGHT A
DO NOT USE MAKE-UP REMOVER AND BARBECUE OR PLACE NEAR A FIRE IN ANY
COSMETICS BASED ON OIL AND ALCOHOL. WAY THAT COULD EXPOSE THE EXTENSIONS
AVOID SAUNA AND ENVIRONMENTS WITH OF CAUSING AN ACCIDENT.
VERY HIGH TEMPERATURES. CLEAN THE EYELASHES ONCE A DAY.
AVOID DIVING IN SEA OR SWIMMING POOL. USE MICELLAR WATER OR JOHNSON
DO NOT WET THE EYELASHES IN THE FIRST NEUTRAL SHAMPOO TO REMOVE MAKEUP
24 HOURS AFTER THE APPLICATION. BRUSH YOUR LASHES EVERY DAY WITHOUT
DO NOT SCRATCH OR PULL THE TOUCHING THE ROOT SO THEY ARE
EXTENSIONS ALIGNED AND CLEAN
AVOID SLEEPING WITH YOUR FACE ON THE
PILLOW CRUSHING THE EXTENSIONS
Allergies and Reactions
Allergies and sensitivities vary from one person to another, some people can develop allergies and
react to the specific ingredients in the glue, so not everyone can tolerate extensions.
Before panicking that the glue caused a reaction, check out some of these questions.
How much glue was used? The more excess glue the more chances of allergies since the glue
releases a type of irritating gas, use glue in the right measure.
Have the eyelashes been cleaned properly? Reactions can be caused by bacteria and residues left
in the lash.
Were the threads glued too close to the eyelid or skin?
Did you use cotton buds to clean the wires? The cotton fibers abutted anywhere near the
application.
We have already mentioned here that the natural fibers react with the glue. Cotton, wool, leather
and any other natural fiber when in contact with Cyanoacrylate can cause an exothermic reaction,
which means heat.
This can cause major irritation, skin burns or chemical burns in or around the eye.
It is worth mentioning that an allergy to glue is not common and when an allergy occurs, it may
not be due to a bad application, but due to the lack of tolerance of the person's body
Insulating the lash How to Make Collage Easier
Well-done isolation is the great secret of the When the client has thin and short strands, it
Thread by Thread extension technique. is difficult to see well for the collage, to
Separate the wire to be glued and with straight make it easier, you can cut a strip of
tweezers keep it isolated while you glue the Micropore and paste it on top of the eyelid,
extension on it, hold it for a few seconds (the slightly pulling the skin that is left towards
drying time of your glue) and release. the eyebrow.
Move on to the next strand, preferably away This is a good tip for people with more
from the one you just glued, so it has more mature skin or a more drooping look, because
drying time. Choose another wire further with tighter skin you will have a better view
away, insulate and glue the other wire. of the threads, but be careful, pull gently
You can also do both eyes at the same time without opening the client's eyes, make sure
and intersperse the collage between one eye she continues keeping them normally closed.
and the other. You can stick a piece of tape from the middle
of the eyelid, pulling it to the side towards
the ear to give the eyelid skin a slight
stretch.
Nano Mister
An excellent tip is the use of a Nano Mister,
which is nothing more than an accessory that
helps speed up the healing process (drying) of
the glue, it should only be applied at the end,
after removing the protection and everything
was finished. It has a compartment to be filled
with distilled water or thermal water, then this
water will be sprayed in microparticles (a very
fine mist).
Spray for 15-20 seconds in a circular motion at
a distance of 15 centimeters from the client's
face.
