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Jamaica 7th Edition Lonely Planet Digital Instant
Download
Author(s): Lonely Planet, Paul Clammer, Brendan Sainsbury
ISBN(s): 9781742204437, 1742204430
Edition: 7
File Details: PDF, 20.43 MB
Year: 2014
Language: english
 PD
F
Jamaica

PDF ebook
Edition 7th Edition
Release Date Oct 2014
Pages 224

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4 easy-to-use
sections
How to Use This Book
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:

1
1 Sights 4 Sleeping
r Beaches 5 Eating
PLAN YOUR TRIP 2 Activities 6 Drinking
Your planning tool kit C Courses 3 Entertainment
Photos & suggestions to help T Tours 7 Shopping
you create the perfect trip.
z Festivals
& Events
Information
8 & Transport
All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference,

2
starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we
suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author
preference.
ON THE ROAD Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
Your complete guide
ranges, by author preference.
Expert reviews, easy-to-use
maps & insider tips.
These symbols and abbreviations give vital
information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation

3
Sustainable or green recommendation
No payment required
% Telephone number f Ferry

UNDERSTAND h
p
Opening hours
Parking
j Tram
d Train
Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking apt apartments
Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms
make sense of what you see. i Internet access dm dorm beds
W Wi-fi access q quad rooms
s Swimming pool r rooms
v Vegetarian selection s single rooms

4
E English-language menu ste suites
c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
# Pet-friendly tw twin rooms
g Bus
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
Vital practical information
for a smooth trip.
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Jamaica
Montego Bay &
Negril & Northwest Coast
West Coast p107 Ocho Rios, Port Antonio &
p135 North Coast
p73
South Coast &
Central Highlands Kingston, Blue Mountains &
p156 Southeast Coast
p36

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Paul Clammer, Brendan Sainsbury

 PLAN ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Jamaica . . . . . 4 KINGSTON, BLUE Reggae Beach to
MOUNTAINS & Boscobel Beach . . . . . . . . . . 85
Jamaica Map. . . . . . . . . . . . 6
SOUTHEAST COAST. . 36 Oracabessa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
Jamaica’s Top 15. . . . . . . . . 8
Kingston. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Galina Point &
Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 16 Little Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
Around Kingston . . . . . . . 57
If You Like…. . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Brimmer Hall. . . . . . . . . . . . 88
Castleton Gardens. . . . . . . . 57
Month by Month. . . . . . . . 20 South of Ocho Rios . . . . . 88
Bull Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Faith’s Pen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
Port Royal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
Eat & Drink West of Ocho Rios . . . . . . 88
Like a Local. . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Hellshire Beach
Recreation Area . . . . . . . . . . 60 Mammee Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
Outdoor Activities . . . . . . 29
Portland Bight St Ann’s Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
Regions at a Glance. . . . . 33 Protected Area . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Priory & Around . . . . . . . . . . 90
Spanish Town . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Runaway Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . 90
May Pen & Around. . . . . . . . 61
Discovery Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . 92
Blue Mountains. . . . . . . . . 62
Dry Harbour
Irish Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Mountains . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
Newcastle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
HOLGER LEUE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Brown’s Town . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
Holywell Recreation Nine Mile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Port Antonio . . . . . . . . . . . 93
Section & Clydesdale . . . . . 67
East of Port Antonio . . . . 98
Gordon Town & Guava
Ridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Port Antonio
to Fairy Hill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
Mavis Bank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
Boston Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
Hagley Gap &
Penlyne Castle . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Long Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
PORT ANTONIO
PAGE 93
Blue Mountain Peak. . . . . . . 69 Reach Falls . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
Southeast Coast. . . . . . . . 70 Manchioneal . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
Yallahs & Around . . . . . . . . . 71 Rio Grande Valley. . . . . . 103
DOUGLAS PEARSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

Morant Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Moore Town. . . . . . . . . . . . . 103

Retreat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 West of Port Antonio. . . 105
Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Port Antonio to
Buff Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
Charles Town. . . . . . . . . . . . 105
OCHO RIOS, PORT
ANTONIO & Annotto Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
NORTH COAST . . . . . . 73 Robin’s Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
Ocho Rios . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
NEGRIL East of Ocho Rios. . . . . . . 84
PAGE 138
 Contents
UNDERSTAND

MONTEGO BAY & SOUTH COAST & Jamaica Today . . . . . . . . 182

NORTHWEST CENTRAL History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 HIGHLANDS . . . . . . . 156
Jamaican
Montego Bay. . . . . . . . . . 109 Bluefields to Culture. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
Black River . . . . . . . . . . . 157
East Coast to Jamaican
Rio Bueno . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Bluefields & Belmont . . . . 157 Landscapes. . . . . . . . . . . 200
Ironshore & Rose Hall. . . . 124 Black River . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
Falmouth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 South Cockpit
Country . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
Martha Brae . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
Middle Quarters. . . . . . . . . 164
Glistening Waters. . . . . . . . 128
Santa Cruz. . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
Duncans. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Maggotty. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
Rio Bueno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Appleton Rum Estate . . . . 165
Inland: South of
Montego Bay. . . . . . . . . . 131 YS Falls. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
SURVIVAL
Lethe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 Accompong. . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
GUIDE
Rocklands Bird Troy & Around. . . . . . . . . . . 168
Feeding Station . . . . . . . . . 132
Christiana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
North Cockpit Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . . 206
Country . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Mandeville &
Around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Transportation . . . . . . . . 212
Good Hope Estate . . . . . . . 133
Mandeville. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
Windsor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
Shooter’s Hill . . . . . . . . . . . 172
Mile Gully & Around. . . . . . 172
NEGRIL &
WEST COAST. . . . . . . 135 Treasure Beach &
Around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
Negril . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Treasure Beach. . . . . . . . . . 173
Negril to
Mayfield Falls . . . . . . . . . 151 Lover’s Leap . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
Green Island Harbour . . . . 151 Alligator Pond. . . . . . . . . . . 180
Lucea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
SPECIAL FEATURES
Mayfield Falls . . . . . . . . . . . 153
Negril to Eat & Drink Like
Savanna-la-Mar. . . . . . . . 153 a Local.......................... 26
Little Bay & Around. . . . . . 153 Outdoor Activities....... 29
Frome. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 Jamaican Culture........192
Roaring River & Jamaican
Blue Hole. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 Landscapes................200
Savanna-la-Mar . . . . . . . . . 155
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
4

Welcome to
Jamaica
Jamaica has long been a jewel in the
Caribbean tourism industry crown, but
there’s far more to discover than just
beaches and all-inclusive resorts.

Jah’s Garden Island Riddims

Ask any expat Jamaican what they miss With Bob Marley, Jamaica gifted us the
about their island, and the answer is inevi- first global superstar from the developing
tably the landscape itself, that great green world. But he didn’t spring from nowhere –
garden that constitutes one of the most this tiny island has musical roots that
beautiful islands of the Caribbean. Jamaica reach back to the folk songs of West Africa
begins with crystalline waters flowing over and forward to the electronic beats of con-
gardens of coral, lapping onto soft sandy temporary dancehall. Simply put, Jamaica
beaches, then rising past red soil and lush is a musical powerhouse, a fact reflected
banana groves into sheer mountains. This not just in the bass of the omnipresent
is a powerfully beautiful country, captivat- sound systems, but in the lyricism of the
ing to the eyes and soul. Jamaican culture patois language and the gospel sounds
can be a daunting subject for foreigners to from the island’s many churches. Music is
understand, but ultimately it’s a matter of life in Jamaica, and you’ll soon find your-
appreciating this land and how its cyclical self swaying along with it.
rhythms set the pace of so much island life.
Caribbean Flavors
Adventure Playground Like many aspects of Jamaica culture, the
Jamaica cries out to be explored – under- food is a creole, born somewhere between
water, on hikes, river-bound with a raft, the Old and New Worlds. African spice
underground with a lamp strapped to your rubs have evolved into delicious jerk, while
head, or on the road by car or bicycle. Get- yam, rice and plantain form the basis of
ting away from the (admittedly beautiful) rich stews and the fish that abound in
beaches allows you to see sides of the island local waters. Throw in the astounding
that many tourists miss. We want to stress: array of tropical fruits that seem to drip
outdoor activities in Jamaica hardly re- from the trees, washed down with a shot of
quire you to be as fit as Usain Bolt. There’s rum, and you can see (and taste) how the
no physical effort involved when you raft Jamaican cultural story retains its original
(someone else poles), and even folks in mod- voice while adapting to the setting – and
erate health can accomplish the country’s of course rhythms – of the Caribbean.
most famous hike through the lush moun-
tains to the top of Blue Mountain Peak.
 5
JIM RICHARDSON/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC/GETTY IMAGES ©

Why I Love Jamaica

By Paul Clammer, Author
Before visiting Jamaica, I hadn’t realized my preconceptions of the country were firmly out
of date – somewhere between the troubles of the 1970s and Bob Marley’s last LP. Touching
down for the first time, the scales fell from my eyes. I’ve rarely been to a country so viscerally
alive (Kingston dancehall street parties have to be experienced to be believed) and so ach-
ingly beautiful: just how many waterfalls hidden in rainforests can one country have? Smooth
like rum and hot like a spicy plate of jerk, Jamaica ensnared me instantly. The media might
call it dangerous, but the worst crime you’re likely to encounter is having your heart stolen.
For more about our authors, see page 224

Above: Rastafarian reggae artist

Jamaica

78°W
CARIBBEAN
SEA
Cockpit Country
Mountain trek in Jamaica’s
wildest terrain (p133)
Montego Bay
Jam at Sumfest, reggae’s
biggest celebration (p118)
Negril
Splash around with
hawksbill turtles (p138)
Montego Donald
Sangster Falmouth
Bay #– International R
Î
A1
Sandy Montego ^
# Airport ^
# Runaway
Lucea Bay Queen of Bay
Bay

v er
R
Î Spain's Valley
Ð S
S Ð
A1
^
# #
\
Mon teg B11 B10
#
\
Discovery
#
\

Ri
R
Î
B8 Bay
R
Î
#
\
Ri
Gr

B3
Clark's

ae
R
Î HANOVER
v er

Br
A1
eat

Ma rt h a Town Brown's
#
\

R
Î
B5
Town
R

ST JAMES TRELAWNY
iv

Long R
Î
i v er

B9
er

Bay R
Î
#
\ Cabar it a R
B8
R
Î
B7 Cockpit #
\ Albert
Negril R
Î
B6 Country Town
R
Î
A2 WESTMORELAND Ð
S
B10
B5 Dry Harbour
R
Î
#
\ Ferris Mountains
^
# Cross
Southwest
Savanna- R
Î
B3
Point la-Mar Christiana \ CLARENDON
R
Î
B6
#

B7 ST ELIZABETH
R
Î R
Î
B6 R
ÎB4

R
Î
A2
R
Î
er

B5
ack R i v
Bl
Black River MANCHESTER
Great Morass R
Î
A2
^
#
18°N Black ^
#
Mandeville
Santuntains
Mo

River
Milk Ri v

Appleton Rum Estate

#
\ Malvern
a Cr

Beware the overproof;

uz

it’s intimidating (p165)

er

Alligator
Treasure \
#
#
\ Pond
Beach Long
Bay
Macarry
Bay

Treasure Beach
Gather with the
international literati (p173)

ELEVATION
2000m Alligator Pond
1500m Enjoy Jamaica’s
1000m seafood by the beach (p179)
750m
500m
250m
0
78°W
 #
e 0
0
50 km
30 miles

77°W
Blue Lagoon
Dive through the
famous Blue Hole (p98)
Blue Mountain Peak
Feel exhilarated at Jamaica’s
best sunrise (p69)

Reach Falls
Slide down these
Firefly fantastic cascades (p102)
Redefine historical opulence
and elegance (p87)
Ja
St Ann's m
R
Î
A1 ai
Bay ca
^
# Ocho Ch
Y \
# Rios Î
R
A3 an
R
Î
A1 #
ne
Ð
S # Port Maria
#
\
B11 Dunn's Oracabessa ^ l
River
Falls Ð
S
B13
Annotto
W hi

R
Î
Ri

A3
Bay
o Nu

ST ANN ST MARY
te

Palmetto
R

evo

Bay
ive

#
\
Moneague
Buff
#
\ #
\

Highgate Annotto R
Î
A4
r

Bay # Bay Hope

R
Î Buff \
A1
Bay Orange Bay
#
\
Port
Ð
S
B13
R
Î Bay Antonio
B2
^
# Boston
Swi f t River

Linstead \ R
Î
A3 Bay
Jo
#

PORTLAND hn R
ÎA4
ST CATHERINE R
Î
B1
# Long Bay
\
C ro

Blue
Ri o

Newcastle \ Mountain
Ri

R
Î
Bl

#
A1
r
wM

M R Peak an
G
ue
oC

R
ÎB3 Spanish ST ANDREW o u (2256m) de # Kensington
\

May n ta
o b re

ou

Town R Î
A1 i ns t 18°N
Yal

# Hagley ai
Pen
n

KINGSTON
\
^
# ns
Gap ST THOMAS
l
a hs

^
# #
_ Mo
R
Î
A2 nd C ree Kingston Harbour ra
nt Pla n Holland
sla
Ri

k R
Î Ri tain Garde Bay
tI
#
\
–
# A2
l v n River
ve r

Port
Rio Minho

Sa Norman Manley e r
Royal Morant R ÎA2 õ
#
International Cow
# Bay
^ Morant
Airport Bay Morant Point
Portland
Bight Bay

Portland
Point
Kingston
Dance till dawn at a
Port Royal pumping street jam (p37)
Follow in pirate Henry
Morgan’s footsteps (p58)

Rio Grande
Pole through tranquil
CARIBBEAN riverine jungle (p105)
SEA
77°W
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
8

Jamaica’s

Top 15
 9
Reggae Grooves Best Beaches

1 If there’s any cultural trend that

defines Jamaica to the rest of the
world, it’s reggae music – quite literally
2 Jamaica’s beach experiences are as
varied as the island’s topography.
The tiny, delicate Lime Cay (p60), only
the soundtrack of the island. The reg- reachable by boat from Port Royal, is per-
gae calendar is dominated by two huge fect for snorkeling and picnics. Hellshire
events that celebrate the country’s love Beach (p60) heaves with Kingstonians
of ‘riddims,’ both worth planning your and reverberates with loud music, its
trip around – Rebel Salute (p89) held wooden shacks doing a roaring trade in
every January in St Ann, and then Reggae fried fish. The north coast’s Winnifred
Sumfest (p118), held in Montego Bay in Beach (p98) draws the locals with its
the middle of the broiling Jamaican sum- azure waters and weekend parties, while
mer. Break out a sweat amid the throbbing Negril’s Seven Mile Beach (p138) is
mass of bodies and the nonstop dancing. criss-crossed by jet-ski riders, and its
Reggae Sumfest long crescent of white sand lined with the
bodies of sun worshippers. Seven Mile
Beach, Negril
SHELBY SOBLICK/GETTY IMAGES ©

MARK BASSETT/ALAMY©
10
3 4

IAN CUMMING/GETTY IMAGES ©

RICK ELKINS/GETTY IMAGES ©
PL A N YO U R TRI P J a m a i c a’ s T o p 1 5

Reach Falls Climbing Blue Kingston

3 On Jamaica’s east Mountain Peak Nightlife

4 5
coast, past stretches A night hike to reach Whether you’re at-
of jungle and beach that Jamaica’s highest tending a nightclub or
are completely off the ra- point (p69) by sunrise, a street dance (p53),
dar of most tourists, you’ll your path lit by the sparks expect a sweaty, lively,
find, up in the hills, one of of myriad fireflies, is an no-holds-barred event.
Jamaica’s most beautiful experience unlike any other. Dress up to the nines and
waterfalls (p102) – and As you climb, the vegeta- follow the locals’ lead. At
this is an island with a lot tion becomes less and less a street dance, two giant
of beautiful waterfalls. tropical, until you’re hiking speakers are placed fac-
Hire a guide (you’ll need amid stunted trees draped ing each other, the street
one, trust us) and clamber with old man’s beard pounding with the bass,
up slippery rocks, over (lichen) and giant ferns. In while nightclubs provide a
neon-green moss and into the pre-dawn cold at the similar indoor experience.
cool mountain pools of summit, you wait in rapt si- Expect to be pulled into
the freshest spring water. lence as the first rays of the the melee as the locals will
In some areas you can sun wash over the densely want to see how well you
dive under watery tunnels forested mountain peaks all can dance, and bump and
and through blizzards of around you, illuminating the grind the best you can;
snowy-white cascading distant coffee plantations the dancing will be some
foam. and Cuba beyond. of the most explicit you’ll
ever see.
 11
5
CHRISTOPHER PILLITZ/GETTY IMAGES ©

PL A N YO U R TRI P J a m a i c a’ s T o p 1 5
6
Negril

6
MICHAEL LAWRENCE/GETTY IMAGES ©

So you’ve walked on
the snowy sands of
Seven Mile Beach, wan-
dered past the nude
sunbathers, seen the
sun sink behind the cliffs,
plunged into the ocean to
scrub your soul and fend-
ed off all the hustlers in
Negril (p138). How about
topping off all of these
experiences by donning
some scuba gear, getting
PADI-certified and watch-
ing sea turtles dance their
slow ballet in the cerulean
waters of Jamaica’s west-
ernmost resort? If a full
aqualung isn’t your thing,
just get your snorkel on
amid the darting rainbow-
colored fish.
12

Bob Marley Museum, Perfect Hotels in Treasure

Kingston Beach

7 Marley’s creaky home (p46) is

crammed with memorabilia, but the
visitor is drawn to his untouched bed-
8 The greatest, most interesting varia-
tion of accommodations in Jamaica
can be found in Treasure Beach (p173), on
PL A N YO U R TRI P J a m a i c a’ s T o p 1 5

room, adorned with objects of spiritual Jamaica’s south coast. Here, instead of huge
significance to the artist, the small kitchen all-inclusive resorts, you’ll find quiet, friendly
where he cooked I-tal food, the hammock guest houses, artsy enclaves dreamed up by
in which he lay to seek inspiration from the theater set designers, Rasta retreats favored
distant mountains, and the room riddled by budget backpackers and private villas that
with bullet holes, where he and his wife are some of the classiest, most elegant luxury
almost died in an assassination attempt. residences in the country. Aside from beds
The intimate surrounds and modest per- and bathrooms, some places offer interesting
sonal effects speak eloquently of Marley’s extras such as cooking classes, rooftop yoga,
turbulent life. farm-to-table banquets and movie nights.

7 DOUG PEARSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

8

MATTHEW WAKEM/GETTY IMAGES ©

 13
9
DOUG PEARSON/GETTY IMAGES ©

PL A N YO U R TRI P J a m a i c a’ s T o p 1 5
10
TRAVELSTOCK44/ALAMY©

Rafting the Rio Grande Appleton Rum Estate

9 No less a celebrity than Errol Flynn

started the habit of sending discern-
ing tourists on romantic, moonlit raft-
10 Red Stripe is the alcohol everyone
associates with Jamaica, but you
may find that rum, the local spirit, provides
ing trips through the Rio Grande Valley a more diverse boozing experience. We’re
(p103), from Berridale to Rafter’s Rest not saying Appleton produces the best
at St Margaret’s Bay. These days the ex- rum on the island, but it is by far the most
perience isn’t quite as exclusive as it was commonly available, bottled as several
when Mr Flynn was running the show – the different varieties, and you can sample all
Rio Grande rafting trips are actually quite these examples of the firewater at the Ap-
affordable as Jamaican tourism activities pleton Rum Estate (p165) in the Central
go – but if the moon is full, you can still Highlands. A lot of rum is served, so don’t
pole onto the waters, which turn silver and expect to accomplish much else on one of
unspeakably romantic. these day trips!
14

Sipping Coffee in Mandeville Maroon Culture

11 Mandeville (p169) is the fifth-

largest city on the island and the
unofficial capital of the cool Central High-
12 The mysticism of Jamaican culture
springs vividly to life in the Maroon
settlements where escaped African slaves
lands. This is an area that has been settled doggedly resisted the British colonizers in
by many retired Jamaicans who have made the 17th and 18th centuries and ultimately
PL A N YO U R TRI P J a m a i c a’ s T o p 1 5

their fortunes overseas, as well as many won their autonomy. Still protected by a
Western volunteers and aid-agency work- 1739 treaty, the Maroons of Accompong
ers. As such, Mandeville has a cosmopoli- (p166), Moore Town (p103) and
tan feel for a town of its size. Rub shoulders Charles Town (p105) proudly preserve
with the local intelligentsia at the Bloom- their old way of life and locals will happily
field Great House, which serves excellent show you around where land is community
pub fare, and sip some locally grown coffee owned, bush medicine is still practiced and
as the mountain mists are dispelled by the old Maroon trails in the hills can be still be
golden sunlight. Picking coffee hiked. Moore Town

11

MONTY RAKUSEN/GETTY IMAGES ©

12
ROBERT HARDING WORLD IMAGERY/ALAMY ©
 15
13 14
ANTHONY PIDGEON/GETTY IMAGES ©

CHRISTOPHER P. BAKER/GETTY IMAGES ©

PL A N YO U R TRI P J a m a i c a’ s T o p 1 5
STUART DEE/GETTY IMAGES © 15

Playing Pirates at Cockpit Country Crocodile-

Port Royal
14 The Cockpit Coun- spotting in Black

13 River Great
The sleepy fishing try of the island’s
interior is some of the
village of Port Royal Morass
most rugged terrain in

15
(p58) only hints at past
the Caribbean, a series This is one of our
glories that made it pirate
of jungle-clad round hills favorite ways of
capital of the Caribbean
intersected by powerfully exploring wild Jamaica:
and ‘the wickedest city on
deep and sheer valleys. setting off by boat in the
Earth.’ Stroll in the foot-
The rains gather in these Black River Great Morass
steps of pirate Sir Henry
mountains and the water (p162), gliding past spi-
Morgan along the battle-
percolates through the dery mangroves and trees
ments of Fort Charles, still
rocks, creating a Swiss bearded with Spanish
lined with cannons to repel
cheese of sinkholes and moss, while white egrets
the invaders; become dis-
caves. You can hike around flap overhead. Your tour
orientated inside the Giddy
the edges of Cockpit Coun- guide may tell you about
House artillery store,
try on old roads or forest the local women who sell
tipped at a jaunty angle;
paths, but to get the full bags of spicy ‘swimp’
or admire the treasures
wilderness experience hire (shrimp) on the riverside,
in the Maritime Museum,
a guide and tackle the hot, and point to a beautiful,
rescued from the deep
tough, perennially over- grinning American croco-
after two thirds of the town
grown Troy–Windsor trail dile, cruising by.
sank beneath the waves in
the monstrous 1692 earth- (p132). Good Hope Estate
quake. Fort Charles
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
16

Need to Know
For more information, see Survival Guide (p205)

Currency When to Go
Jamaican dollar (J$)
and US dollar (US$)

Language
English and patois
(pah-twa)
Montego Bay
GO Dec–Mar
Visas # Ocho Rios
GO Jan–Apr
Not required for Ameri- #

Negril
can, Canadian, UK, EU, #
GO Feb–Apr Port Antonio
Australian and Japanese GO Feb–May
#

citizens for stays of up

Kingston
to 90 days. GO Mar–May
#

Money
ATMs, banks and
moneychangers widely
available in large cities,
rarer in rural areas. US
dollars (US$) preferred
Tropical climate, wet & dry seasons
currency at larger Tropical climate, rain year-round
hotels, resorts and
restaurants.

High Season Shoulder Low Season

Cell Phones (Dec–Mar) Season (Jun–Nov)
US phones must be set (Apr & May)
to roaming. Local SIM ¨¨Expect sunny, ¨¨Sporadic heavy
cards work in unlocked warm days, ¨¨Good time to visit; rainfall across the
phones for most other especially on the weather is still pretty island, except the
countries. coast. Little rainfall, dry (again, except in south coast.
except in Port Port Antonio). ¨¨Heavy storms,
Antonio and the including hurricanes,
¨¨Rates drop for
Time northeast.
accommodations. gear up August to
Eastern Standard Time ¨¨At night it can October.
¨¨Far fewer tourists,
(GMT/UTC minus five become chilly,
especially in the big ¨¨Many of Jamaica’s
hours) particularly in the
resorts/cruise ports. best festivals happen
mountains. in midsummer.
 17
Useful Websites Daily Costs Arriving in
Lonely Planet ([Link] Budget: Jamaica
[Link]/jamaica) Succinct less than US$100 Donald Sangster International
summaries on travel in Jamaica, Airport, Montego Bay (MBJ;
¨¨Everything is cheaper
plus the popular Thorn Tree %952-3124; [Link].
outside Kingston, Montego
bulletin board. com) Taxis are US$10 to US$20
Bay, Negril and Ocho Rios

PL A N YO U R TRI P N eed to K now

Jamaica National Heritage to downtown Montego Bay,
¨¨Plate of jerk: US$3.50 US$80 to US$100 to Negril,
Trust ([Link]) Excellent
guide to Jamaica’s history and ¨¨Route taxi fare: US$1 to US$100 to US$120 to Treasure
heritage buildings. US$2 Beach. Route taxis run from
¨¨Double rooms: US$50 near the gas station at the
Jamaica Gleaner (www. airport entrance to the Hip Strip
[Link]) The (J$100).
island’s most reliable news-
Midrange:
paper. US$100–200 Norman Manley International
Airport, Kingston (KIN; %924-
Visit Jamaica ([Link] ¨¨Admission to major
attractions: US$20 8452; [Link]) Taxis
[Link]) The tourist are US$30 to US$35 to New
board’s version of Jamaica. ¨¨Short taxi ride: US$20 Kingston. Bus 98, opposite the
Listing information may be ¨¨Meal at mid-range arrivals hall, runs to Kingston
outdated. restaurant: $20 Pde (J$100).
¨¨Share villas to score luxury
Important rooms for midrange rates Getting Around
Numbers Public transportation in Jamaica
Jamaica’s country code is Top end: consists of buses, minibuses
%876, which is dropped if more than US$300 and route taxis; they run be-
dialing in the country. tween Kingston and every point
¨¨Private taxis for transport
Ambulance %110 on the island.
¨¨Fine dining: from US$30
Directory %114 Bus Cheap travel between
¨¨Luxury accommodations: towns, but often overcrowded
assistance
from US$200
International %113 and dangerously driven. More
operator expensive and reliable sched-
Opening Hours uled coaches also available.
Police %119
Opening hours vary throughout Car Useful for traveling at your
Tourism %929-9200
the year. We’ve provided high- own pace, or for visiting regions
board
season opening hours; hours with minimal public transporta-
will generally decrease in the tion. Cars can be hired in every
shoulder and low seasons, with town or city. Drive on the left.
Exchange Rates the hours of restaurants, bars
and clubs being particularly Route taxi Run set routes within
Australia A$1 J$89 and between nearby towns and
variable.
Canada C$1 J$86 cities. Cheap and convenient.
Banks 8.30am–1.30pm and
Euro zone €1 J$121
3.30pm–4.30pm Monday to
Japan ¥100 J$105 Friday
New Zealand NZ$1 J$68
Restaurants midday–2.30pm
UK UK£1 J$136 and 7.30pm–midnight
US US$1 J$85
Cafes 7.30am–8pm
For current exchange rates see Bars and Clubs 10pm–4am
[Link].
Shops 9am–1pm and 4pm–
¨¨ 8pm Monday to Saturday
For much more on
getting around,
see p213
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
18

If You Like…
Kingston parties Downtown duction that examines the wide
Diving & Kingston’s sound-system parties sweep of Jamaican history and
are the stuff of legend, with ethnicities. (p129)
Snorkeling the brashest dancehall on the
Accompong The isolated
Major dive centers are con- streets. (p37)
outpost of the living Maroons,
centrated on the northwest
Reggae Sumfest The world’s descendants of escaped slaves
coast; snorkeling opportu-
definitive reggae experience fea- who have retained deep African
nities can be found almost
tures both the best of old sweet cultural roots. (p166)
anywhere. Dive or snorkel
sounds and dancehall’s raucous
and you’ll soon discover a
‘riddims.’ (p118)
plethora of vibrant small
fish and good visibility. Rebel Salute Held on the north Wildlife
coast in January, this is the
Montego Bay It gets green Jamaica is unexpect-
biggest roots reggae festival in
points due to protected waters edly rich in wildlife, from
Jamaica. (p89)
at Montego Bay Marine Park & American crocodiles and
Bogue Lagoon. (p109) Alpha Live! Spot upcoming a diverse, multihued bird
Kingston talent at weekly open population, to the marine
Ironshore Shares operators with
bands sessions at the most fauna, including dolphins
Montego Bay. Sights such as
musically-influential boys’ and sea turtles, that inhab-
The Point and the underwater
school on the island. (p46) its the surrounding waters.
tunnel at Widowmakers Cave are
highlights. (p116) Black River Great Morass
Negril The calm waters that Nothing makes a boat trip into a
characterize Negril make it a Historic Sites Jurassic-looking swamp cooler
good place for newbies seeking than dozens of prehistoric-
Jamaica’s complex story
scuba certification. (p140) looking crocodiles. (p174)
can be explored in a variety
Ocho Rios A reef stretches from of ways, from its beauti- Windsor birding Head into
Ocho Rios to Galina Point and ful colonial architecture the daunting jungles of craggy
makes for fine diving and snor- to community tourism Cockpit Country with trained
keling expeditions. (p76) projects recounting history ornithologists in search of
from the bottom up. birdlife. (p133)
Falmouth This friendly little town Rocklands Bird Feeding Station
on the north coast boasts the In Anchovy, this quirky grassroots
Music greatest concentration of historic tourism project is for birders who
Jamaica is per capita one buildings in all Jamaica. (p126) want to catch sight of Jamaica’s
of the most musically influ- hummingbirds. (p132)
Port Royal Just a skip away
ential nations in the world.
from Kingston is this old haven Canoe Valley Wetland A series
From local sound-system
of pirates and streets of Geor- of isolated, lonely roads lead to
parties to international
gian architecture. (p58) this lovely window onto Eden,
festivals, beats and bass are
where jungle vines frame a
always in the background Outameni A fantastically
pool sometimes frequented by
here. comprehensive museum and
manatees. (p62)
multimedia and dramatic pro-
 19

Food & Drink

ANTHONY PIDGEON/GETTY IMAGES ©

When home is a garden is-

land populated by a cultural
mélange of Africans, Chi-
nese, Indians, Spanish and

PL A N YO U R TRI P I f Y o u L ike …
English, you should prob-
ably expect food to evolve in
some interesting ways.
Boston Bay The supposed
birthplace of jerk, Jamaica’s most
famous spice rub, is the best
place to sample it. (p101)
Appleton Rum Estate Sip the
strong stuff in the Central High-
lands and realize how much flavor
rocket fuel can have. (p165)
Fine Kingston dining The
nation’s capital is the place to
sample haute Caribbean cuisine.
(p50)
Blue Mountain coffee Take
a ‘bean to cup’ tour of the
plantations above Kingston that
grow some of the world’s most
exclusive coffee. (p66)

Waterfalls & Rivers

Jamaica’s rivers have his-
torically been the country’s
most important arterials.
SHANE LUITJENS/ALAMY ©

Today, they’re also a play-

ground for tourists, visiting
the Caribbean’s most dra-
matic waterfalls.
YS Falls Deeply secluded in
St Elizabeth parish, you’d be
forgiven for thinking YS Falls
emerged out of Eden. (p166)
Martha Brae River Be gently
poled down this emerald-green
tunnel, a silent riverine paradise
close to MoBay. (p128)
Reach Falls These tall falls, which
cascade through pools into lush
jungle, may be the most beautiful
in Jamaica. (p102)
Dunn’s River Falls They may be
Top: YS Falls (p166) slightly overcrowded, but it’s still
Bottom: Jerk chicken tons of fun to clamber up these
slippery falls. (p76)
20

Month by Month
old four-day event is a
TOP EVENTS February crown jewel of Jamaican
athletics. Around 30,000
Fi Wi Sinting, February The weather continues spectators (and talent
Jamaica Carnival, to be dry and the sun scouts), crowd the national
February continues to shine as some stadium to try to spot the
of the important cultural next Usain Bolt. Details at
Boys & Girls Champi- festivals on the island
onships, March [Link].
occur in the east.
Calabash International
z Fi Wi Sinting 2 Kingston City Run
Literary Festival, May In the first weekend of
Reggae Sumfest, July This festival (the name March, Kingston straps on
means ‘It is ours’) has its running shoes and takes
grown into the largest cel- part in the popular charity-
ebration of Jamaica’s Afri- fundraising Kingston City
January can heritage, with music,
crafts and food, Jonkanoo
Run. Details at [Link]
[Link].
January is prime tourist dancing, mentos music and
season, when the rains storytelling. Held in Hope
are few and the weather
is pleasantly sunny and
Bay, Portland parish. Details
at [Link].
April
warm. While this is the beginning
z Jamaica Carnival of the Jamaican shoulder
3 Rebel Salute This carnival draws thou- season, the weather
The biggest Roots Reggae sands of costumed revelers stays largely dry even
concert in Jamaica goes to the streets of Kingston, as the crowds, and
down on the second Sat- MoBay and Ochi. Some- accommodations rates,
urday in January at Rich- times spills over into March. start to plummet.
mond Estate in St Ann on Details at [Link]
the north coast. Details at [Link].
5 Trelawny Yam
[Link]. Festival
In ruggedly beautiful Albert
3 Air Jamaica Jazz March Town: yam-balancing races,
& Blues Festival best-dressed goat and don-
You may find Jamaica less
Locally and internationally key, the crowning of the Yam
crowded, yet still blessed
acclaimed artists perform a King and Queen – how can
with good weather, as the
variety of musical genres in you resist? Perhaps the most
high tourism season comes
a splendid outdoor setting idiosyncratic, unique festival
to an end. In the capital,
near Rose Hall, Montego on an island full of ’em. De-
thoughts turn to getting fit.
Bay. Held in the last week tails at [Link].
of January. Details at www. 2 Boys & Girls
[Link]. Championships
Held during the last week
May
before Easter, this century- The rainy season really
 21
gears up in May, although calendar. The rainy season
things stay dry in the south
for the nation’s top literary
continues.
November
festival. 3 Reggae Sumfest The rains are beginning to
The big mama of all reggae slacken off, although the
z Calabash festivals, held in late July northeast is still getting
International Literary in Montego Bay, this event drenched. This is the end of

PL A N YO U R TRI P M o n t h b y M o n t h
Festival brings top acts together low-season rates.
for an unforgettable party.
This innovative literary
festival draws some of the Even if you’re not attend- 5 Restaurant Week
ing, you’re attending – the Jamaican restaurant week
best creative voices from
festivities tend to take over has been building over the
Jamaica, plus highly touted
MoBay. Details at www. years, and organizers clearly
international intelligentsia,
[Link]. hope it will grow in inter-
to Treasure Beach. Details
national cachet. It shows off
at [Link].
the dishes of participating
5 Jamaica August restaurants from Kingston,
Observer Food Ocho Rios and Montego Bay.
It’s as hot as Jamaica gets, Details at [Link]
Awards and about as humid too. com/rw.
The venerable Observer’s In fact, the rains may be
affair is the Caribbean’s coalescing into ominous
most prestigious culinary
event. International talent
storm clouds. Yet the
celebrations on the island
December
and attention turn towards aren’t slowing down. The weather becomes
Kingston, where local res- refreshingly dry again, and
taurateurs bring their top z Independence resorts start raising their
game to the kitchen. Details Day prices accordingly. During
at [Link]. August 6 marks Jamaica’s Christmas, thousands of
com/foodawards. independence from the Brit- Jamaicans fly in from the
ish Empire, and occurs with US, Canada and the UK to
no small fanfare and deliv- spend time with family.
June ery of dramatic speeches,
3 LTM National
A soupy combination of especially in the Kingston
area. Celebrations mark the Pantomime
heat and humidity from the The Jamaican take on social
rains begins to take hold, event island-wide.
satire is raw, irreverent and
but sea breezes on the amusing, and presented at
coast and mountain chill
in the interior keep things October this annual song-and-dance
revue in Kingston from Dec-
fresh. Now the rains are coming ember through January.
in hard, and there may be
z Caribbean hurricanes gathering off
This is some of the best
theater in the Caribbean.
Fashion Week the coast. On the plus side, Details at [Link]
You may not be able to ac- accommodations run dirt [Link].
cess some of the most exclu- cheap.
sive tents here, but the vibe
z Jamaica Coffee
1 National
of Caribbean Fashion Week Exhibition
can be felt all across Uptown Festival
Kingston’s National Gallery
and the posher suburbs of Thousands of coffee lovers shows works by Jamaica’s
Kingston. Details at www. converge on the spacious newcomers and old hands
[Link]. lawns of Devon House in at this biennial display;
Kingston during the first one of the most anticipated
week of October to slurp up cultural events in the Carib-
July Jamaica’s world-famous cof- bean. The current cycle hits
Phew. It’s hot. And not just fee in an orgy of beverages, on even-numbered years.
the weather: one of the liqueurs, ice cream, cigars Details at [Link].
island’s best music festivals and classic Jamaican chow. [Link].
heats up the events
22

Itineraries
CARIBBEAN SEA

Rose Hall Greenwood

•
# Great House
É •
#
É Falmouth
•
#
•
# Glistening Waters
É •
#
Montego Bay Outameni

É
•
#

Martha Brae •
#
River
É

1 K Montego Bay & Around

WEE

Start in Montego Bay, the gateway to Jamaica for about 80% of international travelers.
Hit Doctor’s Cave Beach for water sports and head downtown to Sam Sharpe Sq, taking
in the historic architecture and the hustle of a real Jamaican city. Are you exhausted by
all that energy, or did it invigorate you? Either way, finish up with a fine meal on the Hip
Strip.
Spend the next morning relaxing on Montego Bay’s beaches and maybe enjoy a cold
Red Stripe and plate of jerk for lunch, but don’t linger too long. Heading east from
MoBay you’ll find two great houses: the more (in)famous Rose Hall and the more au-
thentic Greenwood Great House; we recommend the latter. Grab lunch on the north
coast and relax on the beach before taking a nighttime boating expedition at Glistening
Waters.
The next day give yourself a crash course in Jamaican history with a walking tour of
Falmouth and its faded Georgian buildings. Then catch the incredible cultural show at
Outameni. Finish this itinerary with a rafting trip down the Martha Brae River.
 23

CARIBBEAN SEA

Port

PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s
Kanopi House/
Antonio Blue Lagoon
Blue Mountains & •
# É •
#
Coffee É
John Crow #Boston Bay
•
Plantations National Park
PORTLAND
÷
#
•
# É

É
Blue
R Mountain
#Manchioneal
•
Peak Reach •#
É

Falls

KINGSTON #
_
É

•
#
Port
Royal

3 KS Kingston, Blue Mountains & Portland

WEE

Touch down in Kingston for three days of sightseeing, excellent food and rip-roaring
nightlife. Don’t miss the National Gallery. Take in historic Devon House, enjoying Ja-
maica’s best patties and ice-cream while you’re there. Afterwards head up to Bob Marley
Museum. After hours, enjoy dinner and live music at Red Bones Blues Cafe, segueing
elsewhere into a dancehall party and some of the liveliest nightlife in the Caribbean.
For a captivating day trip, visit Port Royal, the earthquake-shattered former haunt of
pirates and privateers.
Those hills looming over the city are calling, so slip into the Blue Mountains. Enjoy
the breathtaking scenery and crisp mountain air from hiking trails in Blue Mountains
& John Crow National Park. The main event here is making an early-morning ascent
of Blue Mountain Peak, Jamaica’s highest mountain. If you are truly adventurous,
whiz down from the highlands on a bicycle tour; if such a trip seems like a bit too much,
enjoy a pleasant day seeing how the Caribbean’s most prized coffee rises from bean to
brewery at the one of several coffee plantations.
Descend from the Blue Mountains to Portland parish, on the prettiest stretch of the
north coast. Walk the atmospheric streets of Port Antonio, taking lodging in one of the
many intimate spots to the east of town or within the port’s atmospheric historic dis-
trict. East of Port Antonio, you’ll find appealing communities with stellar beaches and
attractive places to stay.
You can explore this terrific stretch of coast quickly or slowly, but it lends itself to
some lingering. In the course of, say, five days you could go diving in the Blue Lagoon
and stay at gorgeous Kanopi House, take a visit to Boston Bay, the home of jerk cook-
ing, stop in Manchioneal, a terrific base for visiting the sublime Reach Falls, one of
the best waterfalls on the island.
24

Bluefields
•
# YS Falls
•
# Appleton
•
#
Rum Estate
PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s

orass
Black River
É
Middle •#

Great M
Quarters

É
# Black
•
River

Lover's Leap/ Alligator

Back Seaside Pond
Treasure •
#
É
•
# •
# •
# Alligator
Beach Hole

CARIBBEAN SEA

3 KS The Sunny South

WEE

Start your trip in Bluefields, where you’ll find some exceptional stretches of beach and
the mausoleum of reggae star Peter Tosh. We recommend shacking up in one of the lo-
cal Rasta-run homestays, where you can begin to slip into the laid-back rhythms of the
south coast.
Linger at this quiet fishing beach for a day or three, then continue on to Black River,
a sleepy port town with lovely historic buildings and vintage hotels. This is the gateway
for boats into the mangrove swamps of the Black River Great Morass, a gorgeous
wetlands where crocodile sightings are common. A trip up the river will take up a day of
your time; afterwards visit the Ashton Great House.
In the morning head north to Middle Quarters for an unforgettable lunch of pepper
shrimp at a crossroads eatery and an afternoon at the lovely YS Falls. Wet your whistle
at the Appleton Rum Estate, then head south to Treasure Beach. Stay awhile in the
welcoming embrace of this tight-knit community (folks seem to easily lose a month here).
Be sure to take a boat trip to one of the planet’s coolest watering holes, the Pelican Bar,
perched on stilts on a sandbar 1km out to sea.
From Treasure Beach, visit Lover’s Leap for an astonishing view of the coastlands.
You could spend a day here walking around the sweet pastureland of Back Seaside.
Continue along the coast to the fishing village of Alligator Pond. Far from packaged
tourism, here you can enjoy traditional village life and unspoiled scenery at its best.
You’ll also enjoy a seafood feast at a truly extraordinary beachside restaurant, Little
Ochie.
If you have your own car, preferably a 4WD, and are a confident driver, head east from
Alligator Pond on the ‘lonely road.’ This really is an isolated stretch of road, but you’ll
find wild, empty beaches here and, after many potholes, Alligator Hole, a small pre-
serve where manatees can be spotted.
 25

CARIBBEAN SEA

PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s
Montego
CARIBBEAN SEA Bay É
•
#
Puerto
Seco Runaway
Beach Bay St Ann's
•
#•# •
# Bay Ocho
Green
É
#•
• # Good Hope •#
Maima
É Rios Estate
Grotto •
# •# Oracabessa
É
Caves Seville Dunn's •
# •
# •
#
Great River Mystic Galina
House & Falls Mountain Point
Heritage ANNOTTO Windsor •
#

Park B AY
PA L M E T T O B A Y
BUFF

É
B AY
HOPE
B AY BOSTON
B AY
B O S T O Troy
N •
#
Accompong B AY
•
# É

1 K
Ocho Rios & the 1 K
A Taste of Cockpit
WEE
Central Coast WEE
Country
Start this trip in the tourist town of Ocho From Montego Bay, head out to the Good
Rios. Give yourself two days to chill out Hope Estate, a beautiful house and work-
around Ocho Rios, taking full advantage ing plantation. Enjoy horseback riding,
of the tourist menu of activities, espe- lunch on the terrace and tremendous views.
cially Mystic Mountain and the amazing On narrow roads, travel through cane
Dunn’s River Falls. fields to Windsor. Check into a lodge and
Drive along the coast towards Ora- wake to the sound of birds, then head off to
cabessa to see sights associated with explore Windsor Caves with a Rastafarian
James Bond author Ian Fleming, such as guide, or pay a visit to the Windsor Great
the lovely hotel of Goldeneye; and Galina House to learn about its environmental
Point for Noël Coward, whose former protection and bird-banding efforts.
estate Firefly is now an excellent museum. Get ready for some challenging but
Turning back, head past Ocho Rios rewarding hiking. From Windsor you can
before stopping in at St Ann’s Bay to see hire a guide and walk the old military trail
the Columbus and Marcus Garvey monu- connecting Windsor (in the north) with
ments, then on to the Maima Seville Troy (in the south)…but be ready for some
Great House & Heritage Park, which gnarly trails. Exhausted and exhilarated,
can be explored on horseback. head east to Clark’s Town, then Troy. This
part of the journey is made for soaking
Now head to Runaway Bay, where you
up the scenery. Continue south and make
can eat well, sleep well and base yourself
sure to stop at Accompong, where you
for an exploration of the awesome Green
can meet Jamaica’s remaining Maroons
Grotto Caves before continuing on to
(descendants of escaped slaves).
Discovery Bay and the simple charms of
Puerto Seco Beach. It’s possible to get around on this tour
via route taxi, but you’ll get the most out of
it by renting a 4WD.
26

Plan Your Trip

Eat & Drink Like

a Local
One of the best ways to learn about Jamaica is through its food,
so why not eat your way around the island? Ackee and saltfish for
breakfast, curried goat for lunch and an I-tal vegetarian dinner will
teach you more about Jamaica than a month at any all-inclusive
resort. Jamaica’s tropical climate means good, fresh food abounds
throughout the year, but keep an eye out for foodie festivals.

The Year in Food

Portland Jerk Festival Eating in Jamaica
(July) Jamaican Favorites
A celebration of everything smoked and spicy Ackee & saltfish The Jamaican breakfast of cham-
held across Portland parish, the spiritual home of pions. Ackee fruit bears an uncanny resemblance to
Jamaican jerk. scrambled eggs when cooked, while the salty, flaky
fish adds a savory depth to the pleasing blandness
Jamaica Coffee Festival of the ackee. Usually served with johnny cakes and
(October) callaloo (a spinach-like vegetable).
Farmers, roasters and baristas alike gather to-
Breadkind A sort of catch-all term for starch
gether in Kingston to celebrate everything coffee,
accompaniments, which can include yams, bread-
from Blue Mountain bean to cup.
fruit, bammy (cassava flatbread), festival (sweet
fried cornbread), johnny cakes (dumplings) and
Port Royal Seafood Festival steamed bananas, among others. While not techni-
(October) cally breadkinds, rice and peas (rice and beans) is
A fisherman’s haul of splendid seafood (and also a major addition.
music) in Jamaica’s old pirate capital, a stone’s
Brown stew Often more of a sauce than a stew,
throw from Kingston.
brown stew dishes are a nice combination of savory
and sweet (and slightly tangy); it’s a good choice for
Jamaica Restaurant Week
those who don’t like hot food.
(November)
Held across Kingston, Montego Bay and Ocho Curry All kinds of curry are popular in Jamaica, but
Rios, this is Jamaica’s biggest festival of the goat curry is king, chopped into small bits with meat
island’s culinary arts. on the bone. While the curry has Indian roots, it’s not
as hot as its motherland cuisine.
Escoveitch Imported from Spain by Spanish Jews,
escoveitch is a marinade – most commonly used on
fish – made of vinegar, onions, carrots and Scotch
bonnet peppers.
 27
Jerk The island’s signature dish, jerk is the name for serve it as a matter of course. The majority of lesser
a tongue-searing marinade and spice rub for meats hotels serve lesser coffees from other parts of the
and fish, and for the method of smoking them slowly country or – sacrilege! – powdered instant coffee.
in an outdoor pit over a fire of pimento wood for its Be careful if you ask for white coffee (with milk),
unique flavor. Every chef has a secret ingredient, but which Jamaicans interpret to mean 50% hot milk
allspice, a dark berry which tastes like a mixture of and 50% coffee.
cinnamon, clove and nutmeg, is essential.

PL A N YO U R TRI P E at & D rink L ike a L o cal

Tea ‘Tea’ is a generic Jamaican term for any
Oxtail Simmered with butter beans and served with (usually) hot, nonalcoholic drink, and Jamaicans
rice, stewed oxtail is a national obsession. will make teas of anything. Irish moss is often mixed
with rum, milk and spices. Ginger, mint, ganja and
Patties Delicious meat pies; fillings can include
even fish are brewed into teas.
spicy beef, vegetables, fish and shrimp. A Jamaican
favorite is a patty sandwich – a patty squeezed be- Cold drinks A Jamaican favorite for cooling off is
tween two thick slices of coco bread (a sweet bread ‘skyjuice,’ a shaved-ice cone flavored with sugary
baked with coconut milk). Juici Patties and Tastee fruit syrup and lime juice, sold at streetside stalls.
Patty are reliable national fast food chains selling You may also notice ‘bellywash,’ the local name for
patties and other Jamaican takeaway dishes. limeade.
Rundown chicken Cooked in spicy coconut milk, Ting A bottled grapefruit soda, Ting is Jamaica’s
and usually enjoyed for breakfast with johnny cakes. own soft drink, although Pepsi is pretty popular too
Some say the dish is named for the method by (Coca Cola is surprisingly difficult to find).
which the chicken is caught.
Coconut water Sold straight from the nut from
Fish tea ‘Warm up yuh belly’ with this favorite local streetside vendors, along with its white ‘jelly.’
cure-all. Essentially, fish broth.
Roots tonics Made from the roots of plants such
as raw moon bush, cola bark, sarsaparilla and
Fruits & Vegetables dandelion, roots tonics are widely available in small
‘All fruits ripe’ A Jamaican expression meaning shops, or sold roadside in handmade batches. They
‘all is well,’ which is also the state of Jamaican fruit. taste like dirt…but in a good way.
This island is a tropical-fruit heaven. Sampling
them all and finding your favorites is a noble, Alcoholic Drinks
healthy and rewarding task. Don’t just taste the
Rum Jamaica is proud of its rum – the smooth and
obvious, like coconut, banana, papaya and mango.
dark Appleton rum is the most celebrated brand
Savor your first star apple, soursop, ortanique,
and is great sipped or mixed. You can even visit the
naseberry or tinkin’ toe.
estate (p165) where it’s made. Wray & Nephew’s
I-tal Thanks to the Rastafarians, Jamaica is vegie- white overproof rum carries a knockout blow – it
friendly. The I-tal diet (derived from ‘vital’) has may come in a shot glass, but if you down it in one
evolved an endless index of no-nos. For instance: go you’re heading home early. Mix it with ginger
no salt, no chemicals, no meat or dairy (the latter beer, or even milk (‘cow and cane’).
is ‘white blood’), no alcohol, cigarettes or drugs
(ganja doesn’t count). Fruits, vegetables, soy, wheat
gluten and herbs prevail. Because of the popularity PRICE RANGES
of the I-tal diet many restaurants offer I-tal options
on their menus. Popular dishes include eggplant The following price structure is based
curry, whipped sweet potatoes and steamed on the cost of an average meal at a
vegetables. Jamaican restaurant. Be aware of res-
taurants adding 16.5% government
tax and a further 10% service charge
to the bill.

Drinks ¨¨ Budget
$ less than US$15 (J$1600)
Nonalcoholic Drinks ¨¨ Midrange
Coffee Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee is consid- $$ US$15 to US$25 (J$1600 to
ered one of the most exotic and expensive coffees in J$2600)
the world. It’s relatively mild and light-bodied with a ¨¨ Top end
musty, almost woody flavor and its own unmistak- $$$ more than US$25 (J$2600)
able aroma. Most upscale hotels and restaurants
28

JAMAICAN FRUIT PRIMER

ackee Its yellow flesh is a tasty and popular breakfast food, invariably served with saltfish.
cho cho Also known as christophine or chayote; a pulpy squashlike gourd served in soups
and as an accompaniment to meats. Also used for making hot pickles.
guava A small ovoid or rounded fruit with a musky sweet aroma. It has a pinkish granular
PL A N YO U R TRI P E at & D rink L ike a L o cal

flesh studded with regular rows of tiny seeds. It is most commonly used in nectars
and punches, syrups, jams, chutney and even ice cream.
guinep A small green fruit (pronounced gi-nep) that grows in clusters, like grapes, and
can be bought from July through November. Each ‘grape’ bears pink flesh that you
plop into your mouth whole. It’s kind of rubbery and juicy, and tastes like a cross
between a fig and a strawberry. Watch for the big pip in the middle.
jackfruit A yellow fruit from the large pods of the jackfruit tree. Jackfruit seeds can be
roasted or boiled.
mango A lush fruit that comes in an assortment of sizes and colors, from yellow to black.
Massage the glove-leather skin to soften the pulp, which can be sucked or spooned
like custard. Select your mango by its perfume.
naseberry A sweet, yellow and brown fruit that tastes a bit like peach and comes from an
evergreen tree. Also known as sapodilla.
papaya Cloaks of many colors (from yellow to rose) hide a melon-smooth flesh that
likewise runs from citron to vermilion. The central cavity is a trove of edible black
seeds. Tenderness and sweet scent are key to buying papayas.
Scotch bonnet Celebrated for its delicious citrus sparkle just before your entire mouth and head
pepper go up in flames, Scotch bonnets are small hot peppers that come in yellow, orange
and red.
soursop An ungainly, irregularly shaped fruit with cottony pulp that is invitingly fragrant yet
acidic. Its taste hints at guava and pineapple.
star apple A leathery, dark-purple, tennis-ball-sized gelatinous fruit of banded colors (white,
pink, lavender, purple). Its glistening seeds form a star in the center. The fruit is
mildly sweet and understated.
sweetsop A heart-shaped, lumpy fruit packed with pits and a sweet, custardlike flesh.
ugli A fruit that is well named. It is ugly on the vine – like a deformed grapefruit with
warty, mottled green or orange skin. But the golden pulp is delicious: acid-sweet
and gushingly juicy.

Beer Red Stripe is Jamaica’s famous beer, a crisp

and sweet antidote to spicy jerk creations. Real
Rock is a slightly heavier, local lager, while Dragon
Cooking Courses &
Stout is also popular. Heineken and Guinness are Tours
brewed locally under license. Liven up your kitchen by learning how to
cook Jamaican-style. Good places include
Treasure Beach Cooking (p179; in Treasure
Beach) and Hotel Mocking Bird Hill (p100;
Self-Catering near Port Antonio).
To travel and taste at the same time, join
Food at grocery stores is usually expensive, a specialist culinary tour. Those offered by
as many canned and packaged goods are Jamaica Cultural Enterprises (p47) in King-
imported. Dirt-cheap fresh fruits, vegeta- ston and Falmouth Heritage Walks (p127)
bles and spices sell at markets and road- in Falmouth are particularly recommended.
side stalls island-wide. Wash all produce Don’t forget coffee tasting in the Blue
thoroughly! You can always buy fish (and Mountains (p66), and the tours offered
lobster, in season) from local fisher folk. by the Appleton Sugar Estate and Rum
Factory (p165).
 29

Plan Your Trip

Outdoor
Activities
Jamaica might be in the Caribbean, but it offers a lot more than just
sunbathing on a beach, from mountain biking and rafting to horse
riding and bird-watching. Get a natural high hiking in the mountains
or dive below the waves to explore shipwrecks and coral.

Best of the Best

Bird-Watching Best Wall Dive
All you need in the field are a good pair The Point (p116) Swimming amid sharks and
of binoculars and a guide to the birds of shoals along this coral-clad sea-wall
the island. Expect to pay anywhere from
US$25 for an hour’s jaunt to US$75 for a Best Wreck Dive
good half-day of bird-watching in the bush. The Kathryn (p77) Diving alongside the wreck
of a minesweeper on a reef near Ocho Rios
Where to Go
Good spots include: Best Long Hike
¨¨Black River Great Morass (p162) Blue Mountain Peak (p69) Getting to the top
just in time for the best sunrise in Jamaica
¨¨Blue Mountains (p66)
¨¨Cockpit Country (p133) Best Short Jaunt
¨¨Negril Great Morass (p150) Back Seaside (p161) Having a stroll amid the
¨¨Rio Grande Valley (p103) low hills and soft breezes near Treasure Beach

When to Go Best River-Rafting

Rio Grande (p105) Heading up into the jungle-
The best time for bird-watching in Jamaica clad, rain-soaked green tunnels of the eastern
runs from December to June; at this time of parishes
year birds can be expected to show off their
best plumage. This is also the dry season, so
Best Wildlife-Viewing
you’re less likely to be drenched in your bin-
oculars. A good online resourse is the Carib- Black River Great Morass (p162) A boat trek
bean Birding Trail ([Link]. from Treasure Beach, past jumping dolphins, up
org), a conservation and eco-tourism organi- the river by sunning, grinning crocodiles
zation that covers the Caribbean Basin.

Operators
Suggested operators include the following:
¨¨Ann Sutton (%904-5454; asutton@
[Link]) Based in Marshall’s Pen in
30
Mandeville, has been leading major bird tours in gear bicycle camp, note that Jamaica’s many
Jamaica for more than 30 years. hills and unpredictable traffic make riding a
¨¨Arrowhead Birding Tours ([Link] ‘fixie’ extremely difficult.
[Link]) Tours of one to eight days Good online resources include the
from Kingston. Jamaican Cycling Federation ([Link]
[Link]; 14C Benson Ave, Kingston) and St
¨¨Hope Gardens (p47) Bird-watching tours
Mary’s Off-Road Bike Association
PL A N YO U R TRI P O u tdoor A ct i v i t i e s

on the first Saturday of every month.

(SMORBA; %470-8139; [Link]).
¨¨Hotel Mocking Bird Hill (p100) Hotel
outside Port Antonio, known for its highly
Operators
regarded custom birding tours.
The downhill tour from Hardwar Gap
¨¨Rocklands Bird Sanctuary (%952- (1700m) in the Blue Mountains is very popu-
2009) Near Montego Bay.
lar (but not for the fainthearted).
Blue Mountain Bicycle Tours (%974-
7075; [Link]; 121 Main St, Ocho
Caving Rios) offers pickup from Kingston or Ocho
Jamaica is honeycombed with limestone Rios and transfer to Hardwar Gap. Other
caves and caverns, most of which boast fine tours available around Ocho Rios. Also try
stalagmites and stalactites, underground Mount Edge B&B (p64).
streams and even waterfalls. The Jamaican
Caves Organisation (p204) provides resourc-
es for the exploration of caves, sinkholes and Diving & Snorkeling
underground rivers. The group regularly Diving has been a part of the Jamaican
sends out expeditions to survey the island’s tourist landscape since the late 1960s, when
caves. Expect to pay a guide at least US$50 the first facilities opened in Montego Bay,
per person for a short, half-day exploration even then the tourism capital of the island.
of a cave; if you want to go deeper and long- Thanks to nearby reefs and the MoBay
er into spelunking territory, rates for guides marine park, the northwest coast from Ne-
start at US$70 to US$85 for full-day treks. gril to Ocho Rios remains the epicenter of
Jamaican diving culture. By law, all dives in
Where to Go Jamaican waters must be guided, and dives
You can find guided tours at these caves: are restricted to a depth of 30m.
¨¨Fox Caves (p104), Rio Grande Valley
¨¨Green Grotto (p92), Discovery Bay
Where to Go
Dive Sites:
¨¨Roaring River (p154), Savanna-la-Mar ¨¨Airport Reef (p116)
¨¨Windsor Caves (p134), Cockpit Country ¨¨Rose Hall Reef (p116)
The following are for advanced cavers: ¨¨The Throne (p140)
¨¨Coffee River Caves (p168), Troy
Snorkeling Sites:
¨¨Gourie Caves (p168), Christiana
¨¨Belmont Beach (p157)
¨¨Peterkin-Rota Caves (p133), St James
¨¨Seven Mile Beach (Long Beach) (p138)

When to Go
Cycling
It’s best to go from January to April, when
You can hire bicycles at most major resorts the weather is driest and least prone to
and many smaller guest houses. For any- storms.
thing more serious, you should consider
bringing your own mountain or multipur-
pose bike. You will need sturdy wheels to Operators
handle the potholed roads. Check require- Montego Bay
ments with the airline well in advance. ¨¨Dressel Divers (p117)
Remember to always have, at a minimum,
¨¨Jamaica Scuba Divers (%Falmouth 342-
a flashlight for the front of your bike and
617-2500, Negril 957-3039) Based out of
reflectors for the rear. If you’re in the fixed-
 31

APPROXIMATE DIVING COSTS

Hiking
1-tank dive US$50
Hiking is a great way of seeing the Jamaican
2-tank dive US$95 interior, but keep in mind it’s always best
Snorkeling excursion around US$30 to head into the jungles and the mountains
PADI or NAUI certification course with a guide. It’s easy to get lost out here,

PL A N YO U R TRI P O u tdoor A ct i v i t i e s
around US$420 and it’s good to have a contact who can
vouch for you with locals. Expect to pay at
Rental of masks, fins, snorkels, buoy- least US$45 a day for local expertise, and
ancy control devices and regulators possibly a good deal more to head into par-
usually an extra $15. ticularly difficult terrain.

Falmouth, Negril and Runaway Bay, but does Where to Go

excursions to MoBay. The most developed area for hiking is in
¨¨Resort Divers (p117) Blue Mountains & John Crow National Park,
followed by the Rio Grande Valley in Port-
Negril land parish, where some of the hikes venture
¨¨Marine Life Divers (p140) into the Blue and John Crow Mountains.
¨¨Sundivers Negril (%957-4503; www. The remote Cockpit Country, with its jungle-
[Link]; Point Village Resort, clad limestone hills, is perhaps the most
Long Bay) dramatic landscape on the island; small
community-tourism outfits are growing in
Ocho Rios that region.
¨¨Garfield Diving Station (p77) ¨¨Best Short Trek The one to the summit
¨¨Resort Divers (p77) of Blue Mountain Peak (p69). Reaching
it at sunrise is one of the Caribbean’s most
exhilarating experiences. The view out over the
Fishing entire island (and as far as Cuba if the day’s
clear) more than compensates for having to get
Deepwater game fish run year-round up at an inhuman hour.
through the Cayman Trench, which begins
¨¨Best Long Trek A trek from Troy, in South
just over 3km from shore on the western
Cockpit Country, to the Windsor Caves in North
side of the island. The waters off Jamaica’s
Cockpit Country (p132). This hike traverses
north coast are also particularly good for
some of the most beautiful yet simultaneously
game fishing; an abyss known as ‘Marlin
difficult terrain in the country. Attempting it
Alley’ teems with game fish. Charters can
without a guide is genuinely risky.
be arranged for US$500 to US$550 per half-
day or US$900 to US$1200 for a full day ¨¨Best Bird-Walking Head out in the area
through hotels or directly through operators around Windsor, in North Cockpit Country, with
in Montego Bay, Negril, Ocho Rios and Port the biologists of the Windsor Research Centre
Antonio. A charter includes captain, tackle, (p134). It’s a fun walk (although you need to be
bait and crew. Most charter boats require a fit) and the accompanying scientific expertise
50% deposit. is priceless.

When to Go When to Go
Summer (June to August) is good for game It’s best to go from January to April, when
fishing, but major tournaments go off the weather is driest and least prone to
in Montego Bay in late September and storms.
October.
Operators
Operators ¨¨Grand Valley Tours (Map p94;%993-
Port Antonio 4116, in the USA 401-647-4730; www.
¨¨Errol Flynn Marina (p213) [Link]/[Link]; 12 West St)
Treks to Scatter and Fox Caves as well as hikes
Montego Bay to Moore Town, Nanny Falls, Nanny Town and
¨¨Montego Bay Yacht Club (p213) along the White River Trail.
32
lashed together. Today, you sit on a raised
DON’T WANDER OFF THE seat with padded cushions, while a ‘captain’
TRACK poles you through the washboard shallows
Wherever your walk carries you, be and small cataracts.
sure to stay on the established trails:
the mountainous terrain in Jamaica Where to Go
is too treacherous to go wandering
PL A N YO U R TRI P O u tdoor A ct i v i t i e s

The best river-rafting in Jamaica is in the

off the track as thick vegetation hides mountainous interior of the northwest,
sinkholes and crevasses. You should near the Great River and Martha Brae River
seek local advice about trail conditions (p128). Both of these are within easy day-
before setting out, and take a good tripping distance of Montego Bay and Iron-
guide even if you know the route. shore. On the other side of Jamaica, head
If you’re heading into the back- to the Rio Grande Valley (p105), which sits
country, don’t forget the following: within day-trip distance between Kingston
¨¨ hiking boots and Port Antonio in the east.
¨¨ mosquito netting
¨¨ bug spray When to Go
¨¨ drinking water The best time to go rafting is in the dry
season (December to April), when the waters
¨¨ sunblock
aren’t too swollen. If you want a white-water
experience, head here in summer.
¨¨Jamaica Conservation & Development
Trust (%960-2848; [Link]; 29 Operators
Dumbarton Ave, Kingston 10) Responsible for ¨¨Mountain Valley Rafting (%956-4920;
the management and supervision of the Blue Lethe Estate; 1-/2-person US$50/80) For trips
Mountains & John Crow National Park. Can advise along the Great River, in the interior, within easy
on guides and routes. day-trip distance of Montego Bay and Ironshore.
¨¨Original Trails of the Maroons (%475- ¨¨Rafters Village (%940-6398, 952-0889;
3046; [Link]) This is an [Link]; 66 Claude Clarke Ave,
excellent ecotourism collaboration between an Montego Bay; per raft 1-2 people US$60) For trips
expat and the local Accompong community. It along the Martha Brae, near Falmouth on the
offers cultural tours of Accompong, and arranges northwest coast, within easy day-tripping distance
tours with local guides into the rugged interior of of Montego Bay and Ironshore.
the Cockpit Country.
¨¨Rio Grande Experience (%993-5778;
Berridale; per raft US$65) For trips along the Rio
Grande, in the eastern interior, within day-tripping
Horse Riding distance of Port Antonio and, to a lesser extent,
Horse riding is a popular attraction, particu- Kingston.
larly along the coast where you can ride your
horses into the sea, or to explore some of
the larger plantations. Expect to pay US$60 Surfing & Kiteboarding
to US$70 for a two-hour excursion. Reliable The easterly trade winds bless Jamaica with
operators include: good summer surfing. The sport’s home
¨¨Braco Stables (p130), near Falmouth on the island is undoubtedly the Jamnesia
¨¨Chukka Caribbean Adventure Tours Surf Club (%750-0103; [Link]
(p78), Ocho Rios com), which operates a surf camp at Bull Bay,
13km east of Kingston.
¨¨Hooves (p78), St Ann’s Bay
Boston Bay (p101), 14km east of Port
¨¨Rhodes Hall Plantation (p140), Negril Antonio, has consistent good waves and a
small beachside shack from which you can
rent boards cheaply.
Rafting Kiteboarding Jamaica (p129) at Glisten-
ing Waters near Falmouth is home to
Errol Flynn first saw the fun of coasting
Jamaica’s nascent kiteboarding scene.
down the river on a raft of bamboo poles
 33

Regions
at a Ocho Rios, Port
Antonio & North

Glance
Coast
Activities
Landscape
History

Adrenaline Heaven
The Ocho Rios area argu-
ably has the most activities
packed into a relatively
small space in Jamaica.
Besides Dunn’s River Falls,
the country’s most popular
Kingston, Blue Mountains & waterfall, the north coast
boasts a mountaintop
Southeast Coast adventure park, good div-
Nightlife ing spots, horse-riding
adventures, ATV safaris and
History zipline tours that attract
Hiking active travelers.

Dance Downtown Scenic Waters

Kingston never sleeps and you can join a party any night Reach Falls is surely one
of the week, from formal nightclubs to sound system of the most beautiful cas-
parties consisting of giant speakers set up at either end cades in the Caribbean.
of a street to stage shows featuring the biggest names in Afterwards, raft up the Rio
dancehall and reggae. Make sure you come to Downtown Grande or relax on lovely,
parties with a friendly local. lonely Long Bay. Compared
to the crowded northwest
Pirates & Ruins coast, fewer tourists explore
Visit Port Royal in search of past pirate glory, stroll amid the outdoors in Portland
the ruined buildings of Spanish Town, the island’s former parish.
capital, or take a walking tour through the streets of
Downtown Kingston; understanding the history of this Colonial Jamaica
city is reading the history of the nation writ small across Explore early colonial set-
the streets of its capital. tlements at Maima Seville
Great House in St Ann’s
Blue Mountains Bay, the Windward Maroon
As well as the island’s most popular hike – the night-time stronghold of Moore Town,
climb up to the island’s highest point at Blue Mountain and the Fi Wi Sinting festi-
Peak – the Blue Mountains offer numerous trails to suit val which explores Jamaica’s
all abilities. Mornings afford some of the best wildlife- deepest African roots
spotting in Jamaica.
p73
p36
34
PL A N YO U R TRI P R e g i o n s at a G l a n c e

Montego Bay & Negril & West South Coast &

Northwest Coast Coast Central Highlands
Activities Activities Landscape
History Eating Culture
Hiking Nightlife Relaxing

MoBay Water Sports Dawn to Dusk Great Outdoors

The beaches in Montego Sure, you can go water- From the extensive cave
Bay are OK, but there’s skiing and parasailing and networks of the Central
better sand elsewhere; cliff-diving and all that, Highlands to the glorious
we really recommend but a lot of the joy of Negril cascades of YS Falls, and
swimming in the Glisten- is at the end of an active even gentler options like
ing Waters and rafting day, watching that perfect the rolling pastureland
up the Martha Brae. The sunset every evening, and near Lover’s Leap, there’s a
infrastructure for guided doing nothing at all. lot to keep you outdoors.
activities is more developed
here than elsewhere on the Sunset Dinners Maroon Culture
island. Negril has a plethora of Accompong, in dramatic
good eating options, from South Cockpit Country, is
Old Falmouth simple, beach-satisfying the best place in Jamaica to
Cheerfully chaotic fare on Long Bay to the interact with the Maroons.
Falmouth is the most classier confines of the For intellectual pursuits,
historically preserved town fusion and high-end res- hit Treasure Beach during
in Jamaica, while near taurants of the West End. the Calabash International
Ironshore there are pro- Sunsets off the island’s west Literary Festival. Many
tected great houses and the coast make for some of the members of the island intel-
excellent history/culture most romantic dining expe- ligentsia are attracted to
show put on at Outameni. riences in Jamaica. the laid-back resorts in and
around Treasure Beach.
Spelunking & Birding Party Negril
Head deep into Cockpit If you’re looking for a beach Chillin’ Time
Country, south of Montego party in Jamaica, you can’t You know what? Crocodiles
Bay, to find fascinating really do much better than are relaxing. Look how
caves and some of the best Negril. From folks get- laid-back they are, chilling
birding in Jamaica near ting ‘sedate’ on the beach on Black River. Even more
Windsor and Albert Town. to riproaring, rum-fueled relaxing? Picking the
For an easier challenge, you parties, there’s a lot to keep perfect Treasure Beach
can go on light hill walks in you entertained. accommodations and
the area near Lethe. losing yourself for days,
p135 weeks, months…
p107
p156
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

On the
Road

Montego Bay &

Negril & Northwest Coast
West Coast p107 Ocho Rios, Port Antonio &
p135 North Coast
p73
South Coast &
Central Highlands Kingston, Blue Mountains &
p156 Southeast Coast
p36
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Kingston, Blue Mountains

& Southeast Coast
Why Go?
Kingston is Jamaica undiluted and unadulterated, its raw
Kingston................... 37 energy contrasting sharply with the languor of resorts and
Port Royal................. 58 villages elsewhere on the island. The launching pad for
May Pen & Around....61 some of the world’s most electrifying music, spirited clubs
Blue Mountains........ 62 and riotous street-system parties attest that the beat is still
Irish Town................. 63 alive and bumping. Kingston’s cosmopolitan makeup has
given rise to fine international dining but its dynamic gal-
Newcastle................. 63 leries and museums remain unapologetically Jamaican.
Blue Mountain Kingston is the ideal base for exploring Jamaica’s south-
Peak.......................... 69 east corner. The region offers the breadth of the Jamaican
Southeast Coast...... 70 experience – while there are beaches in easy striking dis-
Morant Bay................71 tance of the capital, the island’s history is thrown into relief
by the faded pirate glory of Port Royal and the grit of Span-
ish Town, and the majestic, forest-covered Blue Mountains
allow you to escape into nature and hike old Maroon trails
Best Places to or taste a gourmet cup at a working coffee plantation.
Eat
¨¨Andy’s (p51)
¨¨Sonya’s Homestyle
Cooking (p51) When to Go
¨¨Kushites (p51) Kingston
°C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm
¨¨Moby Dick (p50)
40/104 40/1000
¨¨Gloria’s (p59)
32/800
¨¨Terra Nova Hotel (p52) 30/68
24/600

16/400
20/68
Best Places to 8/200

Stay 10/50 0
J F M A M J J A S O N D
¨¨Reggae Hostel (p48)
¨¨Neita’s Nest (p49) Feb Carnival and Nov–Apr Best Dec–Mar &
Reggae month time for sightsee- Jul–Sep Best time
¨¨Jamnesia Surf Camp (p57)
offer plenty of ing; in December for surfing (there
¨¨Strawberry Hill (p71) chances for music the island’s choice are few waves
¨¨Lime Tree Farm (p68)
and partying. lineup of stars outside these
appears at Sting. seasons).
¨¨Mount Edge B&B (p64)
 37
KINGSTON sometimes chaotic whole. Kingston is cer-
POP 662,400
tainly never boring – we encourage you to
Squeezed between the Blue Mountains and jump right in.
the world’s seventh-largest natural harbor,
Kingston simultaneously impresses you
History
with its setting and overwhelms you with its When the English captured Jamaica in 1655,
size, noise and traffic. This is the island’s cul- Kingston was known as Hog Crawle, little

Kii n gs to n , Blu e M o u ntai ns & So u th e as t C oas t K Iin

K
tural and economic heart, a lively crucible of more than a site for raising pigs. It took an
music and politics. Like a plate of spicy jerk earthquake that leveled nearby Port Royal in
washed down with a cold Red Stripe beer, a 1692 to spur the town planners into action
visit to Kingston is essential to taste the rich and turn Kingston into a going concern.
excitement of modern Jamaica. In the 18th century, Kingston became
Kingston is a city of two halves. Down- one of the busiest ports in the western hem-
town is home to historic buildings, the isphere, and a key trans-shipment point
courts, banks, street markets and one of the for the slave trade. By 1872, it became the
Caribbean’s greatest art museums. Centered colony’s official capital.
around Parade, it has a shabby charm and In 1907 an earthquake leveled much
runs down to a bayside park. To the west of the city, sending Kingston’s wealthier
lie the ghettoes of Trench Town and Tivoli elements uptown. Downtown became a
Gardens, where many houses don’t have breeding ground both for the new Rastafar-
running water and the rule of law can some- ian movement, and labor unions and politi-
times be thin at best. cal parties alike.
By contrast, Uptown holds the city’s best In the 1960s the port was expanded and
hotels and restaurants, largely confined to attempts were made to spruce up the water-
New Kingston, with its cluster of tall build- front. But as cruise ships docked in Kingston
ings around Emancipation Park. In addition Harbour, the boom also drew in the rural
to two of the city’s most essential sights, the poor, swelling the shantytowns.
Bob Marley Museum and Devon House, its Unemployment soared, and with it came
diplomatic and commercial status assures crime. The fractious 1970s spawned politi-
Uptown a definite cosmopolitan suaveness. cally sponsored criminal enterprises whose
Further out, in the foothills, are Kingston’s trigger-happy networks still trouble the city.

NG
Commerce began to leave Downtown for

gS
most exclusive neighborhoods, with expan-

st
sive views over the capital. New Kingston, and the middle class edged

TO
oN
Uptown and Downtown seldom mix, but away as well.
taken together they form a compelling and n

KINGSTON IN…

Two Days
Visit the Bob Marley Museum to see where Jamaica’s favorite son rested his natty
dreads, and the National Gallery of Jamaica for a crash course in Jamaican art; tour
beautiful colonial manse Devon House; eat a meal to remember at the Red Bones
Blues Café or try Andy’s for the best jerk in town. At night, hit the town for some
sweaty after-hours excitement at the Famous or Quad.

Four Days
Go to Port Royal for a peek into Jamaica’s pirate past, and catch a boat to the tiny
island of Lime Cay for sun worship. Soak in some history by taking a stroll around
Downtown Kingston and see what influenced the young Bob Marley at the Trench Town
Culture Yard & Village, or see what his son Ziggy’s up to at Tuff Gong Recording
Studios. Attend a sound-system party at Weddy Weddy Wednesdays or Rae Town’s
Oldies Night (Sunday).

One Week
Head to Hellshire Beach Recreation Area for a Kingstonian beach experience; or
head up into the Blue Mountains to commune with nature and maybe trek the tallest
peak in Jamaica.
 38
Runaway
Bay
Discovery Priory
Bay B3 A1 St Ann's Tower
Bay
Mount A3 Ocho Isle
Orange Zion
Valley Steer Rios A3 Oracabessa A3 Galina Point
Philadelphia A1 Town
Content

Rio Nuevo
B11 Bamboo Port
Brown's
Town B11 Jacks Maria
B13 River
K i n gs to
Ki
Kingston,

A3 Union
Somerton Green Park Hill Baileys Vale
Claremont Walkers Dressikie
Wood
Alexandria Golden Gayle Langley Islington
Watt Grove
Blue

Town Goshen Pen

Whitehall
n ,Mountains

Alderton Halifax B13 B2

St Ann Windsor A3
Blu e M &

B3 Moneague Riverhead Castle Highgate

York Pear Tree St
Castle Guys Grove Richmond Mary
Middlesex Hill
Cave Valley Rio A3
oSoutheast

A1 Cuffy
Mt Diablo Magno
u ntai ns

Berkshire Hall Gulley

(839m) Troja
B13 B2
Kellits Dover
James Bull Head Ewarton Castle Brandon
Hill (848m) Hill
Coast

Frankfield B4 Lluidas Linstead Glengoffe

Trout Hall
& So

Nine Crofts Vale

St Catherine Rio Bog
St Andrew
Kingston,

Turns Hill
Co
Juan de Bolas br Walk
u th e as

Smithville Sligoville A3
(836m) Point Hill e
Chapelton Suttons Montpelier Stony
Thompson A1 (737m) Hill
Coleburns Gully

Town Rock
Blue

Flat
cho Mounta ins River Mountain
Bridge
Mo
A3
River Cave
t Mountains

Ri

Guanaboa
oM
C oas t K&in

A2 Mocho Sound-System
Vale
Cole

Parties
inh

Clarendon B3 A1
KINGSTON
o

burn

May
Valley

Four A2
Pen
s Gu

Toll Gate Paths Spanish A3

Colbeck Town Portmore
National
Southeast

lly

Green Castle Old Gallery of Jamaica

g st o n CoastHighlights

A2
York Pen Park Harbour Gutters
B12 Port
Hwy 2000
Mi

Halse Sandy T1 Royal

Cooks
lk

Gate Hall Bay Old Harbour Salt Island Great

Canoe Valley Bay Fort Clarence
Lagoon Salt Pond
Rv

Wetland Round Hill Portland Bight Beach Park

Galleon s
(Alligator (351m) Rest Protected Area Port Harbour ill
Hellshire eH
Rio Minho

Hole) Hayes Beach Esquivel ir

ell B12 s h
Milk River
Little Goat H Two Sisters
Brazilletto
IslandGreat Goat Cave
(247m)
Farquhar
Bath Island Long
BayCoquar
Wreck
Point
Beach Rocky Portland Bay Manatee
a
ed Are

Macarry Alley Lionel Peake Point Bight Bay

Bay Amity Town Bay
Dolphin Pigeon
Rocky Hall West
ect

Island
Harbour Island
rot

Point Mahoe
ht P

Carlisle Jackson's
Bay Cave id ge Point
Bay
nd R
d Big

Jackson rtla
Bay Po Portland Little
lan

Lighthouse Millers Bay

rt
Po

Kingston, Blue Mountains & Southeast Coast Highlights

1 Delving into the life of internationally acclaimed Wednesdays, or Rae Town’s
Jamaica’s most revered National Gallery of Jamaica Oldies Night
contemporary hero at his (p40) 4 Retracing the steps of
former home and studio, the 3 Getting into the groove at Blackbeard and Henry Morgan
Bob Marley Museum (p46) the sound-system parties at the former pirate capital of
2 Appreciating the vision (p53) of Weddy Weddy the world, Port Royal (p58)
of Jamaican artists at the
 39

0 10 km
0 6 miles

K i n gs to
Ki
Kingston, Blue
CARIBBEAN

n ,Mountains
Annotto Dover SEA
Bay Point

Blu e M &
A4 Buff
nscar River

Bay Orange
Dry

Bay
A4
Hope

oSoutheast
Snow
Rive

Haycock

u ntai ns
Bay Hill
Hill Port Frenchman's
Pe

(1066m) Antonio Cove

Mt Telegraph Claverty Boston
(1275m) Cottage Bay
Swift River

Coast
Silver Hill Fairy
B1 Berridale Hill

& So
Spring Portland
Mt Airy Fellowship Ja
Hill Castle

Kingston,
Windsor Mountain Long
Green

ma
Hardwar High Peak Bay

u th e as
Hill Blue Mountains (335m)

ica
Gap (2076m)
Jo

& John Crow Moore

hn

A4
Newcastle Blue

Ch
Mountain National Park Candlefly Town
Cr

Strawberry B1

ann
Peak

Blue
Ri

Coffee Portland Blue Kensington

ow nde

Hill Content (1537m)

oG

el
Estates Gap Mountain

t Mountains
Irish Gap
M

Millbank Manchioneal
ra

Town Mavis Peak

ou

The Blu e Mounta ins

C oas t K&in
Guava Bank
nta ey

B1
Bowden
Bob Marley Ridge Cedar Valley Happy Grove
ins
Va

Pen
Museum St Andrew
ll

Innis
Union Hill
Ya

Cane Neg (1027m) Macca Sucker Bay

lla

River ro (1335m)
Falls
hs

Judgement

Southeast
Sound-System Ri Bath
Hordley
Llandewey ve Seaforth

g st o n CoastHighlights
Parties A4 Cliff Morant Point
Trinity r St Thomas Golden
Lighthouse
Ri

Bull Ville Stokes Grove

ve

Bay Stony Hall

r

Yallahs Hill Gut New Dalvey

Grants Heartease
(729m) Pera Morant
Pen Port Morant Rocky
Yallahs Belvedere A4 Old Point Point
A4 Morant Lyssons Pera
Cow Bay Bay Prospect Port
Point Yallahs The Salt Morant
Point Ponds

CARIBBEAN
SEA

5 Setting out before dawn to best hotels, Strawberry 8 Cycling from Hardwar
experience the greatest high in Hill (p71) near Irish Town Gap (p70), quickening
Jamaica, Blue Mountain Peak 7 Seeing a red berry your pulse with a rip-roaring
(p69) transformed into the world’s descent from the high
6 Rewarding yourself with a best coffee bean at one of mountains, through coffee
meal, spa treatment or night of the Blue Mountain coffee plantations and villages
romance at one of Jamaica’s estates (p66)
40

66
Kingston e
# 00 5 km
2.5 miles
A B C D
Castleton Gardens (7km); Buff Bay (50km)

D
D St
Annotto Bay (43km)

on
10

yH
#
ÿ N or
RED HILLS br Newcastle \
#

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ill Rd
1 oo 1
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ng See Blue

Ma n n in
u Lo JACK'S
d CONSTANT
Mo
Re Rd HILL Mountains
SPRING
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ls Map (p64)
Hil
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#
14
Î
R
B1

gs H
#
þ Irish
\
#

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d R
ill R
12 ú
# l R Jack's Hill (24km)
D
ed

666
66
d
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Gordon

il
(2029ft)
H

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Sk
ill s

2 Î
R y Town Rd Gordon 2
Rd

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#

#13 BARBICAN

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Spanish Town (13km) cú
Ja

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Î
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Waterloo R d
D B1
Old

e
Spring Rd
THE
Constant

Washington Blvd

Dr
16 Hope Rd COOPERAGE
WASHINGTON See Uptown #
þ
Sp GARDENS HALF WAY 2#
æ
Kingston Map 5÷
#
an TREE ÿ # PAPINE
is (p44) #Transportation
›
h OLYMPIC 11 Center
GARDENS NEW LIGANEA

Mo
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To

KINGSTON

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Pa Mona Papine Rd

aR
w

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Mou Ave
n

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3 THREE MILE a CROSS 3
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# C
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eway

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Tinson Pen GARDENS

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GARDENS
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W # Fort
GARDENS in
4 Kingston d Nugent Fort 4
See Downtown

6
Harbour Rd #Nugent
w

Kingston Map
ar
NG

dR

Gallows (p42)
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See Port Point Refuge d HARBOUR

Palisadoes
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Royal Map Park VIEW D
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Norman Manley 8 Ø
# w
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(p59) Ù
# N yH Bull Bay
International o r a nle
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Gunboat m an M (11km)
Airport – d Beach
# Port Royal
\ # R The Pa l isa does
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#
Fort The Pa a
lisad M
Rocky oes õ
#

444
5 Gun Cay Plumb Point 5
3 Lighthouse
# Lime
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Lime Cay Picnic Park

4 44
444 44
Maiden Cay

6 4444 South
Cay
Southeast
Cay
44 Caribbean
Sea 6

444 A B C D

Kingston’s troubled image has deterred 1 Sights

tourists ever since, but modernization in
the 1990s, and the ongoing expansion of the
port and other signs of rejuvenation, suggest 1 Downtown
that the capital’s prospects are finally on the oNational Gallery of Jamaica ART GALLERY
up again. (Map p42; % guided tours 922-1561; [Link].
 41
art, including during the superb National Bi-
Kingston ennial temporary exhibition that takes place
æ Sights on alternate, even-numbered years between
1 Alpha Boys School................................B4 mid-December and March.
2 Hope Gardens .......................................C2
3 Lime Cay Picnic Park............................A5 oLiberty Hall MUSEUM
4 National Heroes Park ...........................B3 (Map p42; % 948-8639; [Link]
5 Sculpture Park ......................................C2
jm; 76 King St; adult/child J$400/200; h 9:30am-

K i n gs to n , Blu e M o u ntai ns & So u th e as t C oas t K Iin

6 Trench Town Culture Yard ..................B3
Trench Town Museum ................. (see 6)
4:30pm Mon-Thu, to 3:30pm Fri) At the end of a
7 Tuff Gong Recording Studios..............A3 tree-lined courtyard, decorated with cheer-
ful mosaics and a mural depicting Marcus
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours Garvey, stands Liberty Hall, the headquar-
8 Royal Jamaica Yacht Club .................. C4 ters of Garvey’s UNIA (United Negro Im-
provement Association) in the 1930s. The
ÿ Sleeping building now contains a quite excellent
9 City View Hotel...................................... B1
multimedia museum about the man and
10 Neita's Nest ........................................... B1
11 Reggae Hostel .......................................B3
his work, which allows the visitor to appre-
ciate Garvey’s impact as a founder of pan-
ú Eating Africanism.
12 Andy's.....................................................B2 As in Garvey’s day, Liberty Hall has a
Café Blue/Deli Works................. (see 16) community outreach program, holding
13 Cannonball Cafė....................................C2 after-school programs for neighborhood chil-
Guilt Trip ...................................... (see 13) dren and computer literacy classes. There’s
also a superb reference library with a focus
þ Shopping
14 Grosvenor Galleries..............................B2
on Garvey, African history and its diaspora.
15 Patoo ...................................................... B1
Institute of Jamaica MUSEUM
16 Sovereign Centre..................................C2
(JCDT; Map p42; % 922-0620; [Link]
[Link]; 10-16 East St; adult/child
J$400/200) The Institute of Jamaica is the
[Link]; 12 Ocean Blvd; admission J$400, 45min
nation’s small-scale equivalent of the British
guided tour J$2000; h 10am-4:30pm Tue-Thu, to
Museum or Smithsonian, housed in three

NG
4pm Fri, to 3pm Sat) The superlative collection

gS
separate buildings. The institute hosts per-
of Jamaican art housed by the National Gal-

st
manent and visiting exhibitions. Buy your

TO
lery is the finest on the island and should

oN
ticket at the Natural History Museum, ac-
n
on no account be missed. As well as offering
cessed by a separate entrance around the
a distinctly Jamaican take on international
corner on Tower St.
artistic trends, the collection attests to the
Downstairs there is a small exhibition on
vitality of the country’s artistic heritage as
natural history and agriculture, while up-
well as its present.
stairs holds a temporary exhibition space.
The collection is organized chronolog-
The small but informative Museum of Music
ically, introduced by Taíno carvings and
on the top floor displays traditional musical
traditional 18th-century British landscapes,
instruments and traces the history and de-
whose initial beauty belies the fact that their
velopment of Jamaica’s music, from Kumina,
subjects include many slave plantations. Ten
mento and ska to reggae and dancehall. Next
galleries represent the Jamaican school, from
door, the Africa Collection features weapons,
1922 to the present. Highlights include the
carvings and some exquisite craftwork from
boldly modernist sculptures of Edna Manley,
various African countries.
the vibrant ‘intuitive’ paintings of artists like
The temporary exhibitions are often the
John Dunkley, David Pottinger and revivalist
best, so check online for details. Recent
bishop Mallica ‘Kapo’ Reynolds. Later gal-
highlights have included ‘Jamaica 50’, about
leries chart the course of ‘Jamaican art for
independence, ‘Historic Rastafari’ and ‘Reg-
Jamaicans’ up to the recent past, including
gae and Social Change.’
abstract religious works by Carl Abrahams,
The central building also holds the
Colin Garland’s surrealist exercises, ethereal
National Library (Map p42; [Link]),
assemblages by David Boxer, and the work of
which incorporates the Caribbean’s largest
realist Barrington Watson.
repository of books, maps, charts and docu-
Temporary exhibition spaces frequently
ments on West Indian history.
offer up the best of contemporary Jamaican
42

Downtown Kingston e
# 00 200 m
0.1 miles
A B C D
National Heroes Park (500m);

D
TRENCH D
u mf New Kingston (4km);
TOWN ries
S t

La
1 1

Upper Mark La
Upper Rose
Oxford St
Blount St
K i n gs to n , Blu e M o u ntai ns & So u th e as t C oas t K in g st o n
Ki

Slipe Pen Rd

St
Chancery La
North St

Orange St

Upper Johns La
Upper King

Church St

Duke St

East St
2 Charles St 2
Bond St

6
Pink La

Rose La

West St

à
#
20
#
þ
Spanish Town
(23.5km) Beeston St

D Liberty
21 Hall

Love La
#
þ â
#
Sp
3 a 1 3

66
ni
sh
Town Rd
Heywood St
â
# N
W Parade

Young St 14
Parade
a

E Parade

13 á
Salt L

# ›
#
W Queen Parade
æ4
# St (William #3
æ
Downtown Grant Park) á
#

66
Bus Terminal (200m) æ 10
# Statue of
D Queen
Mark La

# 12
Johns La
á
4 # S Parade
› Victoria 4
Beckford St
#
Ü
Marcus 7
Pechon St

Matthews La

Princess St

Garvey Ave
West St

Temple La
Orange St

Peters La
Luke La

Georges La

Hanover St

5 Tinson Pen ò
# Darling St 5
Church St

Aerodrome
(3.2km);
Portmore # 11
â
(10.2km) Tower St
D
Tower La

Water La #æ
â #
Long-Distance Water St 5 8
Bus Terminal
›
# 18 ú
#
ú 17
# Harbour St
6 #
ú 6
#
15 ú
16
Port Royal St
D
þ 19
# Rae Town (2km);
.
# Norman Manley
National Gallery
Ocean Blvd

#2 International Airport
of Jamaica â Little Port
(20.5km);
Royal St Nethersole Pl Port Royal
Church St
King St

(25.5km)

Ocean Blvd

7 Derelict Wharves 9á
# 7

A B C D
 43
original was built. The tomb of Admiral Ben-
Downtown Kingston bow, commander of the Royal Navy in the
æ Top Sights West Indies at the turn of the 18th century, is
1 Liberty Hall.............................................C3 near the high altar, while plaques commem-
2 National Gallery of Jamaica.................B6 orate soldiers of the colonial West Indian
regiments.
æ Sights
3 Coke Memorial Hall ............................. C4
The crenelated redbrick building facing

K i n gs to n , Blu e M o u ntai ns & So u th e as t C oas t K Iin

4 Coronation Market ...............................A4 East Parade is the 1840 Coke Memorial
5 Institute of Jamaica............................. D6 Hall (Map p42), named after the founder of
6 Jewish Synagogue................................D2 the Methodist churches in the Caribbean,
7 Kingston Parish Church...................... C4 Thomas Coke.
8 National Library ................................... D6 South Parade, packed with street vendor
9 Negro Aroused statue..........................B7 stalls and the blast of reggae, is known as
10 Parade ................................................... C4
‘Ben Dung Plaza’ because passersby have
11 Roktowa .................................................A5
12 Statue of Alexander
to bend down to buy from hawkers whose
Bustamante....................................... C4 goods are displayed on the ground. King
13 Statue of Norman Manley .................. C4 St leads from here to the waterfront, and
14 Ward Theatre ........................................C3 to Edna Manley’s Negro Aroused statue
(Map p42; King St), depicting a crouched black
ú Eating man breaking free from bondage (a repli-
15 Chung's ................................................. C6 ca; the original is in the National Gallery of
16 Juici Patties .......................................... C6
Jamaica).
17 Moby Dick ..............................................B6
18 Swiss Stores......................................... C6 Coronation Market MARKET
(Map p42) This huge cast-iron-framed
þ Shopping
19 Crafts Market ........................................A6
hall hosts the biggest market in the
20 Rockers International...........................B2 English-speaking Caribbean. It holds a
21 Techniques Records.............................B3 special place in Jamaican culture as both
‘stomach’ of the country, and the old heart
of Kingston’s commerce; indeed half the
Parade SQUARE country appears to be shopping here (except
on Sunday). It’s a brilliant and lively show

NG
(William Grant Park; Map p42) William Grant

gS
Park, more commonly known as ‘Parade,’ of noise, produce and commerce, but leave

stTO
is the bustling heart of Downtown, and your valuables at home and watch out for

oN
pickpockets.
n
originally hosted a fortress erected in 1694
with guns pointing toward the harbor. The
Tuff Gong
fort was replaced in 1870 by Victoria Park,
Recording Studios RECORDING STUDIO
renamed a century later to honor Black
(Map p40; % 923-9380; [Link]; 220
Nationalist and labor leader Sir William
Marcus Garvey Dr; tour J$700) Tuff Gong is one
Grant. The north and south entrances are
of the Caribbean’s largest and most influen-
watched over by cousins and political rivals
tial studios. Bob Marley’s favorite place to
Norman Manley (Map p42) and Alexander
record, it’s run by his son Ziggy. Visitors are
Bustamante (Map p42), respectively. A large
welcome to take a 45-minute tour with the
fountain stands at its center.
entire music production process explained,
At North Parade, the distinguished Ward
provided you call in advance, but if some-
Theatre (Map p42; [Link].
one’s recording, you may not be allowed to
com; North Parade), built in 1911, once hosted
see all sections of the studio.
the annual Boxing Day pantomime – a riot-
ous, irreverent social satire. Sadly, the build- Trench Town Culture Yard COMMUNITY PROJECT
ing has fallen into disrepair over the years, (Map p40) Trench Town, which began life as
although there are plans to restore it to its a much-prized housing project erected by
former glory. For now, you can admire the the British in the 1930s, is widely credited
cracked sky-blue facade with white trim. as the birthplace of ska, rocksteady and reg-
The gleaming white edifice facing the gae music. It has been immortalized in nu-
park’s southeast corner is Kingston Parish merous reggae songs, not least Bob Marley’s
Church (Map p42), which replaced an older ‘No Woman No Cry,’ the poignant anthem
church destroyed in the 1907 earthquake. penned by Marley’s mentor, Vincent ‘Tata’
Note the tomb dating to 1699, the year the Ford, in a tiny bedroom at what is now the
Exploring the Variety of Random
Documents with Different Content
 Frey, king of, 122;
Frodi visits, 122;
Freya in, 124, 130;
Nidud, king of, 163;
miners in, 220.
Switzerland. Giants in, 211.
Sword Dances, 84, 85.
Syn (sēn). Goddess of truth, 52.
Syr (sir). Same as Freya, 125.

Tanngniostr (täng´nyos-ter). Thor’s goat, 64.

Tanngrisnr (tän´gris-ner). Thor’s goat, 64.
Tannhäuser (tän´hoi-zer). Story of, 56, 57;
equivalent for, 281.
Tarnkappe (tärn´kap-pe). Invisible cap, 218.
Tartarus (tär´tar-us). Northern equivalents, 275, 283, 288.
Telemachus (te-lem´a-kus). Northern equivalent, 281.
Teuton (tū´ton). Ostara, a goddess, 58.
Teutonic Gods, 209, 211.
Thanatos (than´a-tos). Same as Hel, 288.
Theseus (thē´sūs). Northern equivalent, 291, 292.
Thetis (thē´tis). Northern equivalent for, 286.
Thialfi (te-älf´e). Servant of, 69, 70, 72, 80;
duel of, 74, 75;
Egil’s son, 174.
Thiassi (te-äs´se). Loki’s adventure with, 101;
Idun kidnapped, 102, 103, 104, 107–109, 199, 283;
Loki pursued by, 104, 108;
Gerda, relative of, 114;
the eyes of, 283, 284.
Thing (ting). Northern popular assembly, 30, 128, 129.
Thok (tok). Loki as, 194, 196, 204;
comparison, 289.
Thor (thôr or tôr). Never crosses Bifröst, 21;
Jörd, mother of, 43;
toast to, 46;
god of thunder, 61–83;
infancy of, 61;
anger of, 61, 65;
description of, 62;
hat of, 64;
Alvis petrified by, 65;
Miölnir given to, 68;
drinking wager of, 72;
duel with Hrungnir, 74;
adventure with Geirrod, 80;
temples and statues of, 82;
Tyr like, 84;
giants hated by, 113, 211;
Yule sacred to, 118;
Brisinga-men worn by, 127;
Uller, stepson of, 131;
Grid’s gauntlet helps, 148;
kettle secured by, 174;
goes fishing, 175, 176, 177;
consecrates Balder’s pyre, 191;
visits Utgard-loki, 198;
slays architect, 204;
threatens Loki, 206;
slays Midgard snake, 269;
sons of, 271;
Greek equivalents, 281, 282, 290.
Thora (tō´rȧ). Wife of Elf, daughter of Hakon, 256.
Thorburn. Origin of name, 81.
Thorn of Sleep. Brunhild stung by, 248.
Thorwaldsen (tôr´wald-sn). Origin of name, 81.
Thrall. Birth of, 141, 142.
Thridi (trē´dē). One of the trilogy, 44.
Throndhjeim (trōnd´yem). Temple of Frey at, 118.
Thrud (tro͞ od). Thor’s daughter, 64, 65.
Thrudgelmir (tro͞ od-gel´mir). Birth of giant, 12.
Thrud-heim (tro͞ od´hīm). Thor’s realm, 61.
Thrung (tro͞ ong). Freya, 125.
Thrym (trim). Thor visits, 77, 78, 281, 282;
Freya refuses, 129;
son of Kari, 212.
Thrym-heim (trim´hīm). Home of Thiassi, 102;
Loki visits, 103, 104.
Thunderer. Same as Odin, 277.
Thunderhill. Named after Thor, 81.
Thuringia (thū-rin´ji-ȧ). Hörselberg in, 56;
giants in, 215.
Thursday. Sacred to Thor, 82, 282.
Thurses (to͞ ors´ez). Giants called, 210.
Thvera (tvā´rȧ). Temple of Frey at, 118.
Thviti (tvē´ti). Bowlder where Fenris is bound, 92.
Thyr (tir or tēr). Wife of Thrall, 141.
Titania. Queen of fairies, 223.
Titans. Northern equivalents for, 275, 283, 290.
Tityus (tit´i-us). Northern equivalent, 289.
Tiu (tū). Same as Tyr, 84, 282.
Toasts. To Odin, 45;
to Frigga, 46;
to Bragi, 99;
to Niörd and Frey, 111;
to Freya, 130.
Torge (tôr´ge). Story of giant, 213.
Torghatten (torg-hat´ten). Mountain, 213.
Tree Maidens. Elves same as, 223.
Trent. Superstition along the, 173.
Trolls. Dwarfs known as, 18, 213, 217, 220, 291.
Troy. Northern equivalent for siege of, 280.
Tübingen (tē´bing-en). Worship of Tyr in, 92.
Tuesday. Tyr’s day, 84.
Twelfth-night. Wild Hunt at, 31;
festival, 59.
Twilight of the Gods, 263, 273.
Tyr (tēr). Son of Frigga, 43;
god of war, 84–92;
one arm, 88, 267;
feeds Fenris, 89;
like Frey, 112;
like Irmin, 144;
chains Fenris, 166;
accompanies Thor, 174–177;
fights Garm, 268;
death of, 269.
Tyrfing (tēr´fing). Magic sword, 219.
Tyrol (tĭr´ul). Story of flax in, 54.
Tyr’s Helm. Aconite called, 92.

Ulfrun (o͝ ol´froon). A wave maiden, 137.

Uller (o͝ ol´er). Skadi marries, 111;
winter-god, 131–133;
equivalents, 286.
Ulysses (ū-lis´sez). Compared to Tannhäuser, 281.
Undines (un´dēnz). Female water divinities, 178, 179, 288.
Upsala (up-sä´lȧ). Temple at, 44, 82, 280;
Ingvi-Frey at, 117;
mound at, 284.
Urd (o͝ ord). One of the Norns, 154, 155.
Urdar (o͝ ord´ar). Fountain, 19, 20, 21, 62, 148, 154, 155, 186,
268.
Utgard (o͝ ot´gard). Realm of, 71, 72.
Utgard-loki. Castle of, 71, 72, 73;
evil, 198;
Thor visits, 198.

Vafthrudnir (väf-tro͞ od´nir). Odin’s visit to, 37, 211, 279;

fulfillment of prediction, 266.
Vak (väk). Odin as, 151.
Vala (vä´lȧ). Druidess, 86;
grave of, 185.
Valas. Norns called, 158;
Odin consults, 184.
Valaskialf (vä´la-skyȧlf). Hall in Asgard, 25;
Vali in, 153.
Valentine. Vali as St., 153.
Valfather. Same as Odin, 26, 160.
Valfreya. Same as Freya, 124.
Valhalla (väl-häl´lȧ). Description of, 25–28, 38;
masters of, 62;
Hrungnir enters, 73;
Tyr welcomed to, 84;
Tyr’s warriors in, 88;
Bragi, bard of, 99;
heroes in, 141, 145, 235;
Vidar visits, 148;
Valkyrs choose guests for, 160, 162;
Ran’s hall rivals, 172;
mistletoe near, 184, 188;
Helgi promised, 234, 235;
Gudrun returns to, 236;
Fialar above, 265;
host of, 268.
Vali (vä´lē). Emblem of spring, 43.
1. The avenger, 150–153, 186;
slays Hodur, 195;
survival of, 271.
2. Son of Loki, 200, 207.
Valkyrs (val´kirz). Attendants of Odin, 26;
of the heroes, 26, 28;
of Tyr, 88;
led by Freya, 124;
accompany Hermod, 145;
Skuld a, 159;
general account of, 160–165;
Helgi marries a, 235;
Gudrun a, 236;
Brunhild a, 248;
Freya a, 285;
Hebe compared to the, 287.
Valpurgisnacht (väl-po͞ or´gēs-nähkt). Witches’ dance on, 130,
159.
Valtam (väl´tam). Vegtam, son of, 185.
Van. Niörd a, 22, 284.
Vana-heim. Home of the Vanas, 21, 22, 107, 112, 124.
Vanabride. Freya, 124.
Vanadis (văn´ȧ-dis). Freya, 124.
Vanas. Sea and wind gods, 21, 112, 124, 139, 171;
quarrel between the Æsir and the, 93, 107;
comparisons, 271, 278.
Vandals. Story of Winilers and, 49, 280.
Vara (vä´rȧ). Oath keeper, 53.
Vasud (vä´so͞ od). Father of Vindsual, 17.
Ve (vā). Creation of, 12, 19, 278;
replaces Odin, 42, 132;
equivalent, 275.
Vecha (vech´ȧ). Odin as, 151.
Vedfolnir (ved-fol´nir). Falcon, reporter, 20.
Vegtam (veg´tam). Odin, 185.
Veimer (vī´mer). Thor fords, 80, 282.
Veleda. Warns Drusus, 159.
Veneur de Fontainebleau (vēn-ur duh fōn-tān-blō´). Wild
Huntsman, 32.
Venus. Northern equivalents for, 279, 282, 285, 291.
Verdandi (vēr-dän´dē). Norn of present, 154;
beneficent ways of, 155.
Vespasian (ves-pā´shan). Election of, 87.
Vidar (vē´där). Parents of, 43;
story of, 147–149;
slays Fenris, 269;
the survival of, 153, 271;
comparisons, 286, 290.
Vienna. Customs in, 120, 121.
Vigrid (vig´rid). Last battle on plain of, 38, 208, 266, 268, 271.
Vikings (vī´kingz). Valkyrs take, 161.
Vili (vē´lē). Creation, 12, 19, 278;
replaces Odin, 42, 132;
comparison, 275.
Vindsual (vind´su-al). Father of Winter, 17.
Vingnir (ving´nir). Foster father of Thor, 61.
Vingolf (ving´golf). Tyr welcome in, 84.
Vingthor (ving´tôr). Same as Thor, 61.
Vinland. Norse settlement in, 224.
Virgin. Sponge called hand of, 111;
health of, 130.
Vitellius. Has Cheru’s sword, 86, 87.
Vjofn (vyofn). Goddess of concord, 52.
Volla. Same as Fulla, 50, 51.
Volsung (vol´so͝ ong). Saga of, 225, 292;
birth of, 52, 226;
career and death of, 225–230;
descendants of, 231, 235, 238, 261.
Völund (vēl-oond). Story of the smith, 163–165, 287.
Völundarhaus (vēl´oond-ar-hous’). Maze, 164;
compared to Cretan labyrinth, 287.
Von. River from Fenris’s mouth, 92.
Vör (vēr). Same as Faith, 53.
Vrou-elde (vrou-eld´e). Same as Frigga, 59.
Vrou-elden-straat. Milky Way in Holland, 59.
Vulcan. Northern equivalents for, 277, 285, 287, 291.
Vulder (vo͝ ol´der). Same as Uller, 132.

Wagner. Four operas from Volsunga Saga, 225.

Wain. Same as Great Bear, 36.
Wanderer. Same as Odin, 37.
Waves. Ægir’s daughters, 173, 288.
Wednesday. Sacred to Odin, 45.
Weldegg. King of East Saxony, 44.
Werewolf. Sigmund a, 232.
Weser (vā´zer). Rats drowned in, 33.
West Saxony. Conquered by Odin, 44.
Westerburg. Ilse loves knight of the, 215.
Westri (wes´trē). Dwarf supporting heavenly vault, 14.
White Lady. Last appearance of, 58, 59.
Wild Hunt. Leaders of, 30, 32, 59, 132.
Wild Huntsman, 30, 32.
Will-o’-the-wisp. Mediæval superstition concerning, 222.
Wind. Waves play with, 173.
Wingi (wing´ē). Same as Knefrud, 257.
Winilers (win´i-lerz). Story of Vandals and, 49, 280.
Winter. Odin supplanted by, 42.
Wode (wō´da). Same as Frigga, 59.
Woden. Same as Odin, 23, 30, 45.
Woden’s Day. Same as Wednesday, 45.
Wood Maidens. Elves known as, 223.
Wuotan (wō´tan). Same as Odin, 23, 59.
Wurd (wo͝ ord). Same as Urd, 155.
Wyrd (wērd). Mother of Norns, 148, 149.

Ydalir (ē-däl´ir). Abode of Uller, 131.

Yggdrasil (ig´drȧ-sil). Creation of, 19;
stags pasture on, 20;
assembly under, 21;
spear from, 37;
Odin hangs from, 39;
Thor goes to, 62;
Idun falls from, 105;
Bifröst reaches to, 137;
Giallar-horn hung on, 138;
Norns dwell under, 154;
Nidhug eats, 169, 265;
consumed, 269;
comparison, 283.
Ymir (ē´mir). Giant of fire and ice, 11;
sleep of, 12;
death of, 12, 210;
earth created from, 13;
dwarfs from, 17, 217, 277;
Fornjotnr same as, 199, 212;
comparisons, 275, 277.
Younger Edda. Gylfi’s delusion described in the, 44.
Yule. Month and festival of, 118, 119.
Yule Log, 121.
Yule-tide, 82, 99.

Zephyrus (zef´i-rus). Frey like, 284.

Zeus (zūs). Northern equivalents for, 280.
Ziu (zū). Same as Tyr, 84.
Ziusburg (zūz´berg). Same as Augsburg, 84.
 Transcriber’s Notes
Punctuation, hyphenation, and spelling were made
consistent when a predominant preference was found in the
original book; otherwise they were not changed.
Simple typographical errors were corrected; unbalanced
quotation marks were remedied when the change was
obvious, and otherwise left unbalanced.
Illustrations in this eBook have been positioned between
paragraphs and outside quotations. In versions of this eBook
that support hyperlinks, the page references in the List of
Illustrations lead to the corresponding illustrations.
Printer’s placement designations omitted from illustrations.
The index was not checked for proper alphabetization or
correct page references.
In the Plain Text version of this ebook, o͞ o indicates a
macron above oo, o͝ o indicates a breve above oo, and y̆
indicates a breve above y. These diacritics displayed directly
above the oo’s and the y in Browsers, as they did in the
original book.
*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MYTHS OF
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