Paying crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts

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Red Queen
Crochet Pattern

This pattern was designed by Chiara Cremon aka

@chiacrafts, who hopes you’ll enjoy it a lot!

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A message for you!

Hello dear fellow crocheters! My name is Chiara (pronounced “Kiara”, as I’m Italian) and I’m not
only the girl in the picture down there but, most importantly, the person behind the Instagram
account @chiacrafts!

In the very beginning, crochet was something I used to do just for my own sake: it was nothing
more than a Sunday hobby, to keep my mind busy and far away from disaster fantasies... Never
would I have imagined achieving such success! I then started sharing instructions to reproduce my
amigurumis, mainly as a way of thanking all my followers for their enthusiasm (and because of
the large amount of requests!) :)

However, writing a pattern doesn’t come without its own challenges and quite an effort: while the
design time remains unvaried, physically writing it down in digital format, remaking the pieces to
make sure they’re correct, and preparing all comments and pictures, takes about more than a third
of the time I spend on a project.

I’m an independent artist: I’m not sponsored, not affiliated to any magazine or company, and I
don’t receive any retribution for my work other than what I gain from my Ravelry shop. People
who bought this pattern thinking of redistributing it on their own, making money out of
unauthorized translations or who simply downloaded it for free, should know that there’s a real
person behind this profile they are damaging with their actions. If you’re not sure whether you’re
reading a legal copy, have a look at what’s written
in the next section.

I feel like I’m whining a lot about people not

respecting my work and not focusing enough on
you, all the amazing people who indeed
purchased this pattern :D

Just let me thank you once again for your love

and support. You’re all a source of great
motivation for me!

Cheers,

Chiara

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Licence
Hello, and thank you for being about to try out this pattern! It was made with a lot of love and
personal effort :)

Here are a few rules and advice you’d REALLY better read and keep in mind

This is a pattern for sale, available via my Ravelry shop exclusively (link in the header of this
document). If you’ve found it in any other location, you’re reading a stolen copy, and you shouldn’t
use it. Also, this doesn’t allow you to redistribute it in turn.

DO NOT copy or redistribute this pattern in ANY form. Unauthorized translations are also
prohibited.

DO NOT reuse my pictures.

This pattern is intended for personal use only.

Please give me credits when posting online by always adding “Pattern by @chiacrafts” and
#chiacraftspatterns. If you don’t post online, I would very much like to receive a picture of your
work anyway :D

Please respect my copyright, my wishes and my hard work. Support me and help me carry on
this activity. Thank you for listening :)

For any doubt, you can contact me via PM on Instagram or by email. I DO NOT answer questions
via private message on Ravelry, but you have all the information to contact me otherwise. I
always answer :)

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Read Me! Abbreviations

Take a good look at all the pictures and don’t be
afraid to re-do some parts. Luckily, they are so
small it’s quite fast :)
It's a good practice to read the entire document
US standard abbreviations +
before starting. Knowing what to expect will
help you pay attention! something I’ve made up
★ R = Round (continuous or joined)
★ Row = row
Indications ★
★
MR = Magic Ring
st = stitch
★ Work through the entire stitch, not FLO or ★ sc = single crochet
BLO (unless specified otherwise) ★ inc = sc increase (invisible)
★ At the beginning of each row of sc, you ★ dec = sc decrease (invisible)
must work a turning chain. It’s not ★ dc = double crochet
indicated in the pattern but it’s reported in ★ hdc = half double crochet
the diagrams ★ ch = chain
★ After a chain, always work from second ★ sl = slip stitch
loop from hook (if not indicated otherwise) ★ tr = treble crochet
★ If you’re left handed, everything is ★ BLO = back loop only (corresponds to the
specular for you! inner loop when working in rounds)
★ Work in continuous rounds ★ FLO = front loop only (corresponds to the
★ I place the stitch marker on the LAST st outer loop when working in rounds)
of the round. Someone puts it on the first. ★ Ldec = Line decrease, decrease at the
Know that, in my patterns, it marks the beginning of a row. Don’t make any
end of the round turning chain, turn you work directly and
start working in the 2nd st of the row.
★ [ ] = means that the stitches are to be
done in the same loop or stitch
★ CY-PO = cut the yarn and pull it out from
the stitch
Color change ★
★
IJ = Invisible Join
FO = fasten off (CY-PO + IJ)
Always perform the color change on the second ★ stsc = standing sc
half of the stitch. ★ tch = turning chain
Example: ★ rc = rising chain
● Color change on a sc: insert the hook, YO,
pull through, pick the new color, YO, pull
through both loops on your hook.
The color change is to be done on the previous
stitch! If the pattern says to change color between
Rx and Ry, then you must go to the last st of Rx
and change color on the second step of the stitch
:)

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Note on the yarn

Materials YarnArt Jeans is a yarn made to be worked with a
★ 2.0 mm hook 3 or 3.5 mm hook (it comes only in 1 size, so you
★ 2.5 mm hook can’t be wrong purchasing it). As usual when
★ Tapestry needle working amigurumis, I’ve used a hook 1 size
★ 8mm black safety eyes smaller than indicated to better work the body
★ Stuffing (poly fiber fill or other) tight, thus avoiding holes in the crochet from
★ Yarn all in the same size of the following which the stuffing would be visible or fall
colors. I’ve used YarnArt Jeans: through.
○ Milk (03): skin You should get a good result with this pattern
○ Turquoise (33): eyeshadow as long as you stick to one yarn brand/size, work
○ Bright red (90): hair the body with a hook 1 size smaller than
○ Peach (73): hands indicated, and scale the other hooks accordingly.
○ White (01) details Anyhow, my advice is to avoid picking a yarn
○ Black (53): dress much thicker than indicated, to avoid a sloppy
○ Mustard (84): dress details and result: maximum 1 size bigger!
crown

Dimensions
Using the yarn and hook size indicated (and, most
Note on the eyes importantly, working tight!!!), the dimensions of
the finished doll are 10x5cm.
The right safety eyes size depends on the doll’s
dimensions! Don’t purchase 8mm eyes if you’re
not sure the dimensions of your doll will be
similar to mine. My advice is to purchase a box
with many different sizes, and use the one which
better suits your doll.

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R10: 2 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (18)

The 2 increases mark the booty :)

Legs R11: 18 sc (18)

R12: 2 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (16)
Hook: 2.0 R13: BLO: (6 sc, dec) x 2 (14)
Work tight It’s very important for you to work R13 BLO, you’ll
Work with Black yarn work the skirt in the FLs left!
R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) Start stuffing the body, keep stuffing while
R2-R8: 6 sc (6) moving up
Make 2 legs. R14-R16: 14 sc (14)
The legs don’t need stuffing!
R17: 4 sc, 1 sc changing color to milk, dec, 5 sc,
CY-PO after making the first leg. Leave a long
dec (12)
tail in case some sewing should be needed.
Don’t cut the yarn after making the second leg R18: 6 dec (6)
instead; you’ll keep on working from there to join R19-R20: 6 sc (6)
the legs. The head will be very big and heavy, especially
after adding the hairstyle, and will make the neck
bend a little. The collar will help keep it straight
up. However, if you prefer, you might insert
something inside such as a qtip or a pipe cleaner.
However, I didn’t :)
R21: 6 inc (12)
R22: 12 inc (24)
R23: (1 sc, inc) x 12 (36)
Your stitch marker should be on the front side of

Body the doll, as in the following picture (pink stitch

marker). Take into account that the increases of
R24 should be done on the front, and the 18 sc on
Hook: 2.0 the back. Tiny differences in the position of your
Work tight stitch marker won’t have a huge impact :)
Work starting from the 2nd leg made with Black
color
Join the legs:
R9: 3 sc in 2nd leg made, chain 2, 6 sc in 1st leg,
2 sc in back side of the chain, 3 sc in 2nd leg
(16)
(Start working in the 1st leg done from the 1st st
of R8, as in the following figure!)

R24: (1 sc, inc) x 6, 18 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 3 (45)

R25-R26: 45 sc (45)
R27: (2 sc, dec) x 5, 17 sc, (2 sc, dec) x 2 (38)
R28-R29: 38 sc (38)

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Change to turquoise on the second step of the

last sc of R29.

R30: in turquoise: 2 sc, change to milk, 6 sc,

change to turquoise, 2 sc, change to milk, 4 sc,
inc, 18 sc, inc, 4 sc (40)

Note: remember that the color change must

always be done on the second half of the previous
stitch. Therefore, R30 must be read as in the
following:
R30: 1 sc tur, 1 sc tur changing to milk on the
2nd step, 5 sc white, 1 sc milk changing to tur
on the second step, 1 sc tur, 1 sc tur changing to
milk on the second step then keep working in
milk color till the end, 4 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc, 4 sc
(40)

Note 2: cut the yarn each time you perform a color

change, and fix it with a little knot to the loose
extremity of the new color. Then trim the loose
extremities. The result will be neater and you
R31: change to tur, 3 sc, change to milk, 2 sc,
won't risk deforming the shape of the head. It's a
inc, 2 sc, change to tur , 3 sc, change to milk, 14
bit annoying and laborious, but worth it!
sc, inc, 14 sc (42)
R32: change to tur , 4 sc, change to milk, 5 sc,
change to tur, 4 sc, change to milk, 2 sc, inc, 20
sc, inc, 5 sc (44)
R33: change to tur , 5 sc, change to milk, 1 sc,
inc, 2 sc, change to tur, 5 sc, change to milk, 14
sc, inc, 15 sc (46)

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From now on keep working in white color

R34: 46 sc (46)
R35: (21 sc, dec) x 2 (44)

Stop and place the safety eyes between R29 and

R30. It’s super easy, just place them where
indicated in the following figure:

Bring up the white thread and cross the black one:

Then add the eyelashes

You can also make the embroidery for the eyes as

explained below. If it shouldn’t be clear enough,
I’d advise you to take a look at the video tutorial
I’ve published on instagram!

First position the white and black threads and the

eye (clip it using the washer)

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Keep on working the head:

R36: (9 sc, dec) x 4 (40)
R37: (3 sc, dec) x 8 (32)
Start stuffing the head!
R38: (2 sc, dec) x 8 (24)
R39: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Stuff with constance and attention. Don’t forget to
keep stuffing until the very last round, the top of
the head must be as well filled as the bottom.
You can also embroider the nose and the I use my scissors to help myself while stuffing.
eyebrows :)

Here's the result:

R40: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

R41: 6 dec (6)
CY-PO leaving a long tail for sewing. Using a
TIP: while stuffing the head, it’s possible that the tapestry needle, pass the tail through all the FLs
eyes will tilt towards the outside. A good trick is of the last round, and pull. Make a knot and hide
straightening them using some threads placed the yarn inside the doll’s body.
inside the head! You might place them afterwards
Here’s the result so far!
or prepare them while crocheting the head, just in
case you might need it. Make them pass here:

And then out on the back.

If you need to straighten the eyes, simply pull

these strings gently after closing the head

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Ears
Hook: 2.0
Hair
Work tight
Work with milk yarn
Leave a long starting tail
R1: ch 2 (1)
Base
R2: [3 sc] in second loop from hook, FO Hook: 2.0
Work normally (not as tight as the body, you can
relax)
Work with bright red yarn
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: 6 inc (12)
R3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Sew the ears 5 st from the edge of the eye R4: (2 sc, inc) x 3, 1 sc, sl, turn (don’t make a
turning chain) (14)
We didn’t complete the round: we worked in
11/18 stitches of round R3. From now on, proceed
working in rows
Row5: skip the sl, (3 sc, inc) x 3, sl, turn (no tch)
(16)
Row6: skip the sl, (4 sc, inc) x 3, turn (18)
Row7: 18 sc (18)
Switch to hook 2.5, work normally
Row8-Row17: 18 sc, turn (18)
Row18: Ldec, (dec, 4 sc) x 2, 2 dec, turn (13)
Row19: Ldec, 1 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec (9)
Row20: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 5 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, IJ

This is how the piece looks like

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And how it fits Join the yarn above the right ear using a 2.0 hook

Work the following stitches moving towards R3:

1 stsc, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, [2 dc], 1 hdc, 2 sc

Make a sc in the 1st of the 7 stitches left in R3

You still have 6 stitches left. There, work:

1 sc, 1 hdc, dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc
Then proceed working down the left part of the
hair base:
2 sc, 1 hdc, [2 dc], 1 dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc, FO

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You worked a total of 9+7+9=25 stitches all

around

Fix well the starting tail of the stsc with an IJ

Merge the yarn on the front part

Work in the 5 central stitches, leaving a long

Chignons
starting tail: Hook: 2.0
Row1: 1 stsc, 4 sc (5) Work normally
Row2: Ldec, 3 sc (4) Work with bright red yarn
Row3: Ldec, 2 sc, (3) R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Row4: Ldec, 1 sc (2) From now on, work each round BLO
Row5: Ldec, CY-PO (1) R2: [2 sc] x 6 (12)
Leave a long tail for sewing R3: (1 sc, [2 sc]) x 6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, [2 sc]) x 6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, [2 sc]) x 6 (30)
R6: (5 sc, [2 sc]) x 5 (35)
R7: 35 sc, sl, FO (35)
Looking at your work, you can see a continuous
spiral formed by the FLs left

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Here’s the result. Make 2

Build the hairstyle

Put the base on top of the head: the MR should be
Work ch 3, 1 sc in the next st all down the spiral, placed perfectly on top of the last round of the
up to the FLs of the very last round (R7) head, and pin the chignons on top of it. The 2
chignons must be close to the hairline on the front
and almost touch each other on the back.
Don’t pin them to the head, you must be able to
remove the hairstyle later on.

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Sew the chignons by seaming through the BLs

left at R7 of the chignons.
It’s a bit tricky, take your time and pay attention
not to deform the base.

Stuff a bit while closing up

Once done place everything back on the head and

sew it along the edges. Then tuck in the frontal
Then remove the hairstyle point

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And here she is! Row4: [1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc], 18 sc, [1 sc, ch 1, 1 sc],
FO

Here’s the scheme:

Sew it to the body following the color change line.

Sew it to the back of the head a bit. It will keep
the head up.

Collar
Hook: 2.0
Work tight
Start with white yarn
This part is worked in rows
Row1: ch 14 (13)
Row2: 13 sc (13)
Row3: [ch 3 as a tch, dc], (1 dc, [2 dc]) x 6 (20)
NB the last loop of the ch 3 in R4 will be used as
a st to work in

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Using mustard and bright red yarn embroider

some equally spaced tiny v (they will remind of
the heart motive on the queen’s dress)
Skirt
Hook: 2.0, 2.5
Work normally
Work with black yarn
Start with hook 2.0. Work in the FLs left at R12 of
the body, keeping the doll upside down (start
from the first loop of the round, should be on the
back).

Work now a separate piece to be positioned on

top of the black skirt

Hook: 2.0
Work normally
Work with mustard yarn
This part is worked in rows
Row1: ch 11 (10)
R1: stsc, 2 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc) x 3 (20) Row2: 2 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc (12)
Change to 2.5 hook, work relaxed Row3: [ch 3 as tch, 1 dc], 1 dc, [2 dc], 6 dc, [2
R2: (9 sc, inc) x 2 (22) dc], 1 dc, [2 dc] (16)
R3: 5 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 5 sc (24) NB the last loop of the ch 3 of Row3 plays as a
R4: (11 sc, inc) x 2 (26) stitch, you’re going to work on it in Row4
R5: 26 sc (26) Row4: ch 1 as tch, 4 dc, [2 dc], 6 dc, [2 dc], 4 dc
R6: 6 sc, inc, 12 sc, inc, 6 sc (28) (18)
R7: 28 sc (28) Row5: ch 1 as tch, 5 dc, [2 dc], 6 dc, [2 dc], 5 dc
R8: (13 sc, inc) x 2 (30) (20)
R9: 30 sc, sl, FO (30) Row6: ch 1 as tch, 6 dc, [2 dc], 6 dc, [2 dc], 6 dc,
FO (22)

Put this piece on the waist of the doll and sew it

there along its Row1

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work a dc in the corresponding 2 FL

Arms
Hook: 2.0
Work tight
Start with peach yarn
R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R2: 6 sc (6)
Change to mustard
R3: 6 sc (6)
R4: BLO: 6 sc (6)
R5-R6: 6 sc (6)
Change to black
R7: BLO: 6 sc (6)
R8: 6 sc (6)
Then make, working BLO
slip stitch, turn without making the turning
chain, skip the sl, work now FLO make 2 sc, one
more slip stitch and CY-PO. The loops left are
technically BLs, but, for convenience, I’m calling
them FLs as well in the following explanation
This gives you the curvature for the shoulder!
Then work a sc in the next 2 FL, and then a dc in
The arms don’t need stuffing
the 1 FL right above
Make 2.
Make 2 iterations this way and then FO. You don’t
work the FLs below the armpits to avoid the arms
to stick out from the body once sewn on.

Then work the puffy sleeves in the following way,

keeping the arm upside down (work morbidly):
Insert your hook in one of the FLs left in the In the 3 FLs work 1 st sc, and then ch 1, sc in the
shoulder curvature (1) pull out a loop next FL all around, FO

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Then sew them a bit to the body and FO :)

Here she is!

Sew the arms on the color change line

Crown
Then pass inside the other extremity of the Hook: 2.0
shoulder curvature Work tight
Use mustard yarn
Row1: (ch 4, sl in 2nd loop from hook, 2 sc) x 5

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Row2: work 10sc on the base of the spikes, 2 sc

each spike:

Front decor
Hook: 2.0
Work tight
Work with mustard yarn
This part is worked in rows
Row1: ch 4 (3)
Row2: 3 sc (3)
Row3: Ldec, 1 sc (2)
Here’s a diagram Row4: 2 sc (2)
Row5: Ldec (1)
Row6: ch 2

Roll up the crown and sew the extremities

together

Then work sc all around. On the top corners, work

sc ch 1 sc to make them pointier.
End with a sl in the first sc made, FO

Sew it on top of the queen’s head

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Congratulations, your Red

Queen is ready!
Don’t forget to send me a picture and tag me /
give me credits / use my hashtag when posting
online!
All info is in the licence!

Add some embroideries

Then sew or glue it to the chest

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