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SOUTHWEST ROAD TRIP
Tim Hull
CONTENTS
Discover the Southwest
Las Vegas
Zion and Bryce
Capitol Reef National Park
Arches and Canyonlands
Monument Valley, Four Corners, and Mesa Verde
Santa Fe and Taos
Route 66
The Grand Canyon
Essentials
Index
List of Maps
Photo Credits
Copyright
DISCOVER the Southwest
10 TOP EXPERIENCES
PLANNING YOUR TRIP
HIT THE ROAD
Best Views
Best Hikes
Stretch Your Legs
The great American road trip finds its wild side in this mysterious
landscape.
You’ll rise from arid red-rock fairylands through river-cut canyons
to the high and mighty evergreen forests, and then descend again—
sometimes in one scenic stretch of road. You’ll pass through small
towns and villages happily ensconced in a plateau time warp, when
colorful billboards marked oases in the desert and freedom could still
be found on the back of a Harley.
Bring your hiking boots, binoculars, camera, and water bottle, but
leave your preconceptions at home. Follow these twisting two-lane
highways with an open mind and an open heart, and you will
discover the unexpected and the impossible: the neon-lit hedonism
of Las Vegas and the otherworldly hoodoo forests of Bryce Canyon;
the indescribable beauty of the Grand Canyon and the dreamy adobe
charm of Santa Fe. Wander among the glowing red cliff dwellings
and the eroded sandstone monuments to uncover something about
beauty, history, time—and perhaps even yourself.
Come to the Southwest and get lost . . . or found.
10 TOP EXPERIENCES

1 Explore a fairytale wilderness: Walk among the strange and

wonderful hoodoos at Bryce Canyon National Park.
2 Take a hike: Embark upon some of the world’s best trails,
through high pine forests, into wild canyons, and across alien red-
rock landscapes.
3 Wander ancient villages: Learn about Indigenous cultures
through their well-preserved dwellings at Mesa Verde National
Park, Wupatki National Monument, and Walnut Canyon
National Monument.
4 Follow the U.S.A.’s roadside history: Explore scenic stretches
of old Route 66.
5 Experience a wonder of the world: Hike, bike, raft, or just
gaze in awe at Grand Canyon National Park.
6 See the artistry of wind and water: Stand beneath an eroded
sandstone arch at Arches National Park.
7 Search for art, architecture, and green chiles: Engage with
the Southwest’s creative culture in Santa Fe.
8 Go on a scenic drive through Monument Valley: See the
iconic landscape featured in countless movies.
9 Engage with Native American culture: Visit some of the
country’s oldest communities at Taos Pueblo and Acoma Pueblo,
which are even more memorable if timed for a ceremonial dance
or feast day.
10 Surrender to your wild side: Give in to luxury and chance in
Las Vegas.
PLANNING YOUR TRIP
Where to Go
Las Vegas
Rising out of the desert like a high-tech oasis, Las Vegas is an adult
playground of casinos, bars, celebrity chef-run restaurants,
over-the-top shows, and plush hotels. Dig a little deeper to find
fine food, a flourishing arts scene, and local hangouts in the
shadows of the Strip.

Zion and Bryce

Zion National Park presents stunning contrasts, with barren,
towering rock walls deeply incised by steep canyons containing a
verdant oasis. Zion is so awe-inspiring that the early Mormons
named it for their vision of heaven. Bryce Canyon National Park
is famed for its red and pink hoodoos, delicate fingers of stone rising
from a steep mountainside.

Capitol Reef National Park

In Capitol Reef National Park, the Fremont River carves a
magnificent canyon through the Waterpocket Fold, offering hikers
a leafy, well-watered sanctuary from the park’s otherwise arid
landscapes.

Arches and Canyonlands

In vast Canyonlands National Park, the Colorado River begins to
tunnel its mighty—and soon to be “grand”—canyon through an
otherworldly landscape of red sandstone. The beauty is more
mystical at Arches National Park, where hundreds of delicate
arches provide windows into the solid rock. High-spirited Moab is a
recreational mecca, known for its mountain biking and
comfortable, sophisticated dining and lodging.

Monument Valley, Four Corners, and Mesa Verde

A sculptor couldn’t have carved the red sandstone buttes, arches,
and spires at Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park. The cliff
dwellings at Mesa Verde National Park, built in naturally worn
alcoves high up in the canyon walls, are ancient stone masterworks.
On the way between these two spots, stop at Four Corners
Monument and twist your body into four states at once.

Santa Fe and Taos

New Mexico’s picturesque capital of Santa Fe has a human scale and
a golden glow (partly from the loads of money spent here).
Museums are a major draw—for state history, folk art, and more—
as are the scores of galleries. Taos melds artists, spiritual seekers,
and ski bums—plus centuries-old Spanish and American Indian
families. Make time to enjoy the creative atmosphere, cultivated
in coffee shops and restaurants.

Route 66
Peaceful nostalgia, the ruins of a bygone heyday, and a quirky road
culture pervade the sections of Historic Route 66 between
Albuquerque, New Mexico, and Kingman, Arizona. It’s possible to
spend the whole drive watching the ever-changing scenery of high-
desert plains, lava fields, ancient villages, and petrified forests.

The Grand Canyon

A mile-deep slice into the Kaibab Plateau, the Grand Canyon defies
easy description. Stare in awe at the colorful layers from the
canyon’s edge—or descend deep into the canyon to meet its creator:
the mighty Colorado River.
the Las Vegas welcome sign New Mexico accessories
 ancient pictographs in Canyonlands National Park.

When to Go
The national parks and the other sights on the Colorado Plateau are
open year-round, but spring, summer, and early fall are the best
and the busiest seasons for a visit. During the high season, May-
September, the parks—especially Grand Canyon, Zion, and Arches
—are crowded with vacationing families and international tourists.
In the higher elevations like Bryce Canyon, Grand Canyon, Mesa
Verde, and Taos, winter is cold and snowy. These spots are much
more sedate, though still steadily occupied, and prices are much
lower in some areas. The Wetherill Mesa section of Mesa Verde
and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon are both closed during
winter.
 Perhaps the best time to come to the Southwest is mid-
September-early October. You’ll find the major sights a bit less
busy since school is in session. The days are mostly warm in the low
country and moderate in the highlands, while the nights are
generally cool and pleasant at low elevations and brisk and
refreshing up high. And of course, the sky everywhere is big, blue,
and cloudless.

Before You Go
The easiest places to fly into are Las Vegas and Albuquerque.
Flying into Las Vegas will orient your road trip as described in this
guide and is the best starting point for a shorter trip heavy on Utah’s
national parks and the Grand Canyon. Flying into Albuquerque is the
best option for a trip dedicated to discovering Santa Fe, Taos, and
Route 66, which will take you right past the Grand Canyon.
You could also fly into Phoenix’s Sky Harbor International
Airport, rent a car, and drive 2.5 hours north to start your journey
at Grand Canyon National Park’s South Rim.
Book hotels and rental cars in advance for the best rates and
availability, especially in the summer, which is high season for travel.
If you plan to rent a car in one city and return it in another, you
should expect to pay an additional fee, which can be quite high.
High-season travelers should also plan ahead for the big-name
attractions. Reservations are essential at the campgrounds and
lodges at Grand Canyon National Park. With just one lodge
each and limited campsites, reservations are also a must for Zion
National Park, Bryce Canyon National Park, and Mesa Verde
National Park. The national park lodges accept reservations up to
13 months in advance, and national park campgrounds open for
reservations six months in advance.
winter in Zion National Park Route 66 in New Mexico
 Havasu Falls on the Havasupai Indian Reservation.

During the summer high season, it’s also essential to make

reservations in advance for accommodations in the small towns that
surround these popular parks, including Springdale near Zion,
Tropic near Bryce, and Tusayan near the Grand Canyon’s South
Rim.
Coming to the United States from abroad? You’ll need your
passport and possibly a visa.
Bring layered clothing. Expect desert heat in the summer in
Las Vegas, the inner depths of the Grand Canyon, and at lower
elevations in southern Utah, such as Moab and Arches National Park.
Also be prepared for cooler temperatures: Nights, even in the
summer, turn cool above 7,000 feet (2,134 m), where several of the
great parks on this route sit. Remember this when visiting the Grand
Canyon, Bryce Canyon, and Mesa Verde. For much of the Southwest,
mid-to-late summer is the rainy season, so you might encounter
intermittent afternoon thunderstorms and find yourself in need of
rain gear.

Driving Tips
Las Vegas has a lot of traffic, especially on Thursday and Friday
evenings. The Nevada Department of Transportation
(http://nvroads.com) has information on current road conditions.
Expect high summer temperatures driving around Las Vegas.
Heat can also be a problem on the routes to and from the Grand
Canyon, Zion, and Moab. Make sure your car has sufficient engine
coolant and working air-conditioning, and take along plenty of
drinking water. You may also encounter thunderstorms in this
area July-mid-September, which can lead to road flooding. Never
enter a running wash. Contact the Nevada Department of
Transportation (dial 511 in state, http://nvroads.com), the
Arizona Department of Transportation (dial 511 in state,
www.az511.gov), the Utah Department of Transportation (dial
511 in state, www.udot.utah.gov), the New Mexico Department
of Transportation (dial 511 in state, www.nmroads.com), and the
Colorado Department of Transportation (dial 511 in state,
www.cotrip.org) for each state’s road conditions.
Though not exactly back roads, the routes on this trip are mostly
two-lane highways rather than bustling interstates. During the
summer high season, you will encounter groups of motorcyclists
and RVs inside the national parks and along the roads on the
Colorado Plateau, Historic Route 66, and the High and Low Roads
from Santa Fe to Taos. Also keep an eye out for the occasional long-
distance bicycle gang. You may encounter wildlife along these
roads, especially at night or early in the morning and inside Grand
Canyon and Mesa Verde National Parks.
Many of the roads in this region pass through Native American
reservations, on which you should never drive off-road or even off
the main roads without first getting permission to do so. While on
the vast Navajo Nation, which crosses portions of Arizona, Utah, and
New Mexico, keep an eye out for livestock crossing the road.
While there are gas stations and other services throughout the
region, in some areas they are few and far between. Never let your
tank go below half full, and always keep extra water and food in
your vehicle. Bring a hard copy of a map instead of relying on
your phone or GPS. The best map of the region is AAA’s Indian
Country map. Cell phone service is likely to be spotty on the
reservations, in the national parks, and in the remoter corners.

HIT THE ROAD

The 14-Day Best of the Southwest
You can hit the top destinations of the American Southwest in two
weeks by driving in a loop of roughly 2,000 miles (3,219 km). The
day-by-day route below begins in Las Vegas, but you can just as
easily start in Albuquerque or Flagstaff if that works better for you.
For detailed driving directions for each leg of this road trip, see
Getting To... at the beginning of each chapter. All mileage and
driving times are approximate.

Day 1
LAS VEGAS
It’s easy to fill a day with fun in Las Vegas. Head to the top of The
STRAT’s SkyPod for incredible views of the city and desert, then
walk the Strip along with the other revelers, exploring the
expansive worlds of the megaresorts, like the Bellagio and
Caesars Palace. Stay the night at the SAHARA, a modern resort
that hearkens back to Vegas’s golden age, enjoying drinks and
dinner on-site. Then catch a show by Cirque du Soleil or
Spiegelworld. For more suggestions on how to spend your time in
Vegas.
Days 2-3
ZION AND BRYCE
235 miles (380 km) / 4.5 hours
Grab breakfast from Blueberry Hill Restaurant to fuel up for the
drive to Zion National Park. Leave Las Vegas at 8am to reach Zion
by 11am. The 165-mile (265-km) drive to the Springdale entrance
takes about three hours; however, traffic, especially in summer and
on weekends, can make it much longer.
Explore Zion National Park to see iconic attractions like the
Court of the Patriarchs Viewpoint, and take a hike on the
Upper Emerald Pool Trail. Make reservations ahead of time to
spend the night in the comfort of the Zion Lodge or at the park’s
South Campground or Watchman Campground.
Make the 70-mile (113-km), 1.5-hour drive to Bryce Canyon
National Park. Hike the Navajo Loop Trail or Fairyland Loop
Trail. Stay the night at the Lodge at Bryce Canyon (make
reservations in advance) or camp at North Campground or
Sunset Campground.

Day 4
CAPITOL REEF NATIONAL PARK
120 miles (193 km) / 2.5 hours
Wake up for the drive to Capitol Reef National Park, a scenic
120-mile (193-km), 2.5-hour drive from Bryce Canyon. Leave by
7:30am and arrive by 10am, and check in at the Capitol Reef Inn
and Cafe in Torrey or the park’s Fruita Campground.
Take the park’s 21-mile (34-km) round-trip scenic drive (1.5
hours) to Capitol Gorge. Leave your car in the parking area and
take the 2-mile (3.2-km) round-trip hike into Capitol Gorge to see
the petroglyphs, pioneer registry, and natural water tanks.
Day 5
ARCHES AND CANYONLANDS NATIONAL PARKS
205 miles (330 km) / 4 hours
Get an early start for the 145-mile (233-km), 2.5-hour drive to
Moab, the gateway city to Arches and Canyonlands. Once you drop
your bags off and get a bite to eat in town, head to Arches
National Park, which is 5 miles (8 km) away, a 10-minute drive.
Drive to the Windows trailhead and stroll around the easy paths
leading to four arches.
It’s a 30-mile (48-km), 40-minute drive to Canyonlands
National Park from Arches. Stop at Green River Overlook and
the Grand View Point, and hike the short, easy Grand View
Trail.

the Windows Section of Arches Rod’s Steak House on Route 66 in

National Park Williams, Arizona
 an artist drawing on the edge of the Grand Canyon.

Best Views
Whether you’re looking across a canyon, down from a
mountain, or off the rooftop bar at a high-rise hotel, a stunning
view can make you feel like you’re on top of the world.

Las Vegas
SkyPod: Atop The STRAT’s 1,149-foot (350-m) observation
tower you’ll find incredible 360-degree indoor/outdoor views
of the desert city, with cocktails close at hand.
High Roller: Head to The LINQ Promenade to enjoy a
leisurely ride and Strip views from this giant observation
 wheel.

Zion and Bryce

Court of the Patriarchs Viewpoint: Zion’s favorite
viewpoint features three towering, jagged red-rock peaks
with skirts of greenery, called Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob.
Sunrise and Sunset Points: These are the ideal spots in
Bryce to watch the sun climb or set over the great canyon’s
hoodoo forest.

Capitol Reef
Panorama Point: It’s said this area has some of the clearest
air in the United States, which enhances the sweeping view
of Capitol Reef and the Henry Mountains.
Goosenecks Overlook: Watch a humble creek meander
through the starkly beautiful canyon that it has been carving
for eons. In the evening, walk 0.3-mile (0.5-km) from the
overlook’s parking area to catch sunset at Sunset Point for
panoramic views of the Fremont River gorge, the Capitol Reef
cliffs, and the distant Henry Mountains.

Arches and Canyonlands

Grand View Point: See Canyonlands spread out before you
from high up on the Island in the Sky.
Green River Overlook: Watch the mighty Green River, a
shock of color contrasting with the hard, red land, snake its
way across the plateau.

Monument Valley, Four Corners, and Mesa Verde

Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park Visitor Center:
Take in the otherworldly view of Monument Valley from a
high patio.
 Sun Point View: Stop at this Mesa Verde overlook along the
Mesa Top Loop Road for a classic view of Cliff Palace, the
largest cliff dwelling in North America.

Santa Fe and Taos

The high road to Taos: There are several great views on
this drive through the mountains from Santa Fe to Taos.
Rio Grande Gorge: Just outside of Taos, the Rio Grande
flows through an 800-foot (244-m) rift, offering dizzying
views from above.

Grand Canyon
Mather Point: The most-visited viewpoint in the Grand
Canyon is this classic panorama, which includes a quarter of
the massive canyon below.
Yavapai Geology Museum and Observation Station:
Hanging off the Grand Canyon’s South Rim, this museum
puts your first glimpse of the canyon into context with
interpretive exhibits.

It’s a 30-mile (48-km), 45-minute drive back to Moab from

Canyonlands. Stay at the Best Western Canyonlands Inn or the
Gonzo Inn, and have dinner at the Desert Bistro.

Days 6-7
MONUMENT VALLEY, FOUR CORNERS, AND MESA VERDE
330 miles (532 km) / 7 hours
It’s an almost 3-hour drive of 150 miles (242 km) from Moab to
Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park. Spend an hour or so
driving the dirt road through the valley, stopping at the various
pullouts and viewpoints. Get a closer look at these huge natural
sculptures along the short Wildcat Trail. Stay the night in Kayenta
or Mexican Hat.
It’s 110 miles (177 km, 2 hours) to Four Corners Monument
from Monument Valley. Stop for the requisite photo of yourself in
four states at once, and peruse the creations of the Navajo vendors
and artists.
From Four Corners, it’s 70 miles (113 km, nearly 2 hours) to the
central part of Mesa Verde National Park (one hour to the
entrance and about 40 minutes up the mesa). Head to the Chapin
Mesa Archeological Museum, tour Cliff Palace and Spruce
Tree House, and hike Petroglyph Point Trail. Stay the night at
the park’s Far View Lodge, or at one of the hotels in nearby
Cortez or Mancos.

Day 8
MESA VERDE TO SANTA FE
270 miles (435 km) / 5.5 hours
After a good night’s sleep, head out for Santa Fe. Including the
road down the mesa, the 270-mile (435-km) drive takes about 5.5
hours. Take US 160 to Pagosa Springs, where you can soak for a
while in one of the 18 pools at The Springs Resort. From Pagosa
Springs take US 84 to get to downtown Santa Fe.

Days 9-10
SANTA FE AND TAOS
150 miles (242 km) / 4 hours
Walk around the central Santa Fe Plaza, shopping and chatting
with the artists selling wares on the sidewalks. Tour the New
Mexico Museum of Art and check out the Cathedral Basilica of
St. Francis of Assisi.
Have lunch at Tia Sophia’s, then head over to the Canyon
Road art galleries. Have dinner at Café Pasqual’s and stay the
night at Hotel Santa Fe.
 Grab a coffee from Iconik to wake up for the drive along the
high road to Taos. Leave Santa Fe by 8am to reach Taos by
10:30am, but allow more time to visit the villages along the scenic
route. The 80-mile (129-km) drive to Taos takes at least 2.5 hours.

Best Hikes
TOP EXPERIENCE
Zion and Bryce
Upper Emerald Pool Trail: Find an emerald-green pool at
the base of a cliff and waterfall on this popular hike.
Queen’s Garden and Navajo Loop Trails: Combine these
trails for an impressive excursion that descends into Bryce
Canyon and winds among the hoodoos below the towering
cliffs.

Capitol Reef National Park

Grand Wash: Follow a dry riverbed through this canyon
offering spectacular scenery and wildflowers.
Capitol Gorge: Walk through a sandy gorge, its red walls
etched with petroglyphs and the names of Mormon pioneers.

Arches and Canyonlands

Delicate Arch Trail: Follow the photographers across the
slickrock to stand beneath the park’s most improbable and
inspiring arch.
Grand View Trail: This short rim hike features amazing
views of Canyonlands and the meeting of the Colorado and
Green Rivers.
 Monument Valley and Mesa Verde
Wildcat Trail: Walk the arid red valley around famous West
Mitten Butte in Monument Valley.
Petroglyph Point Trail: Hike along a forested ridge, high
above a canyon in Mesa Verde, to a well-preserved panel of
petroglyphs.

Santa Fe and Taos

El Salto de Agua: In Arroyo Seco, experience caves and
waterfalls via a short hike.
Gavilan Trail: Explore the forest high above Taos on this
steep hike to a mountain meadow.

Route 66
Long Logs Trail: Witness the remains of a Triassic forest on
this flat trail at Petrified Forest National Park.
Mount Humphrey Trail: On your way through the forest
outside Flagstaff, hike up to the highest point in Arizona.

Grand Canyon
Rim Trail: An easy 13-mile (20.9 km) trail, this all-day hike
showcases the grandeur of the South Rim.
Bright Angel Trail: Descend into the Grand Canyon for a
few hours—or spend the night at Phantom Ranch near the
Colorado River.

Tour Taos Pueblo, then make your way to the center of town
and walk around Taos Plaza. Check out the Taos Art Museum at
Fechin House and the Kit Carson Home and Museum. Eat at
The Love Apple (make reservations in advance) and return to
Santa Fe on the low road to Taos (70 miles/113 km, 1.5 hours).
Days 11-12
ROUTE 66 TO WILLIAMS
420 miles (675 km) / 7.5 hours
It’s an hour’s drive (65 mi/105 km) on I-25 South to get to
Albuquerque from Santa Fe. Once you get to town, check out
Petroglyph National Monument and ride the Sandia Peak
Tramway. Head out of town in the afternoon and drive Historic
Route 66 for 140 miles (225 km, two hours) to Gallup, staying the
night at the equally historic El Rancho Hotel.
The next morning, drive Historic Route 66/I-40 for 70 miles (113
km) to Petrified Forest National Park. Leave Gallup by 8am to
reach the park by 9am and spend a few hours driving south along
the park road.
From the park road’s southern terminus, drive 50 miles (81 km,
about one hour) west to Winslow and have lunch at La Posada’s
Turquoise Room. Drive 60 miles (97 km, one hour) on I-40 to
Flagstaff and wander around its historic downtown.
Continue 35 miles (56 km, just over 30 minutes) on I-40 to
Williams. Check in to The Lodge on Route 66, walk the town’s
Route 66-centric main strip, and have dinner at Rod’s Steak
House.

Day 13
GRAND CANYON
Enjoy a break from your car by taking the Grand Canyon Railway
from Williams to Grand Canyon National Park. Take in the
views from the Rim Trail or descend into the canyon on the Bright
Angel Trail. Get an appetizer or a drink at the historic El Tovar
hotel before taking the train back to Williams. For dinner, indulge in
a prime cut of meat from Rod’s Steak House. For more
suggestions on how to spend your time in the Grand Canyon.
Day 14
ROUTE 66 TO KINGMAN; RETURN TO LAS VEGAS
260 miles (420 km) / 4.5 hours
Have a big breakfast at the Pine Country Restaurant in Williams.
Head west on I-40 for the 20-mile (32 km), 20-minute sprint to Ash
Fork, the starting point for a 50-mile (81 km, one hour) section
along Historic Route 66. Stop and tour Grand Canyon Caverns,
peruse the gift shops in Seligman, and grab snacks at the
Hackberry General Store, another 50 miles (81 km, one hour)
west. Next, continue another 30 miles (48 km, 45 minutes) along
lonely Route 66 to Kingman. In Kingman, tour the Historic Route
66 Museum.
Then it’s time to head back to Las Vegas, which is 110 miles
(177 km, two hours) from Kingman. Splurge on a stay at Caesars
Palace and enjoy its Roman dreamscape. Spend the day shopping
and luxuriating around the pool. Indulge in a true Vegas meal at the
Bacchanal Buffet. At night, head out to the Strip and simply stroll
among the crowds and lights and falling coins, following your whims
and appetites.

Las Vegas, Utah’s National Parks, and Grand Canyon

In just one week and approximately 1,100 miles (1,770 km),
you can experience many of the Southwest’s most famous
attractions. If you have more time, it’s well worth adding another
day to each of the main stops. Mileage and driving times are
approximate.

Day 1
LAS VEGAS
After you arrive, check in at the SAHARA. Spend the late afternoon
and early evening lounging around its oasis-like pool complex, Azilo
Ultra Pool. After nightfall, walk the Strip and take in the spectacle
of the street. Have dinner at Best Friend or Eataly, both at Park
MGM, before heading back to the SAHARA for drinks at its stylish
Casbar Lounge.

Day 2
ZION AND BRYCE
235 miles (380 km) / 4.5 hours
Grab breakfast from Blueberry Hill Restaurant to fuel up for the
165-mile (265-km), three-hour drive to Zion National Park. Leave
the city by 8am to arrive by 10:30am. Explore Zion for about three
hours, having lunch at Zion Lodge and strolling the Riverside
Walk.

Zion National Park in Utah

After lunch, drive 70 miles (113 km, 1.5 hours), to Bryce

Canyon National Park. Explore the rim at spots like Inspiration
Point, take a short hike below the rim on the Queen’s Garden
Trail, and watch the sunset over the canyon. Stay and eat in the
park’s Lodge at Bryce Canyon or in nearby Tropic.

Day 3
CAPITOL REEF
120 miles (193 km) / 2.5 hours
Get up early and head out for the 120-mile (193-km), 2.5-hour drive
to Capitol Reef National Park. Leave by 8am to arrive by
10:30am. Bring a picnic lunch with you and take the 21-mile (34-
km) scenic drive (1.5 hours), then embark on the 2-mile (3.2-km)
Capitol Gorge hike to see petroglyphs and the names early
travelers etched in the canyon wall.

ONWARD TO MOAB
145 miles (233 km) / 2.5 hours
Drive 145 miles (233 km, 2.5 hours) to Moab. Stay at the Best
Western Canyonlands Inn or the Gonzo Inn and have dinner at
the Desert Bistro or Eddie McStiff’s.

Day 4
ARCHES AND CANYONLANDS
35 miles (56 km) / 50 minutes
Drive 5 miles (8 km, 10 minutes) to Arches National Park. Stop and
see the Windows and hike 3 miles (4.8 km) round-trip to Delicate
Arch.
Drive 30 miles (48 km, 40 minutes) to the Island in the Sky
District of Canyonlands National Park and enjoy overlooks like
Grand View Point. Hike the short Grand View Trail from here,
then head back to Moab for a relaxing night.
Stretch Your Legs
Quick roadside pullovers recharge your batteries and fight road
weariness. The Southwest Road Trip loop is flush with
worthwhile roadside attractions.

Las Vegas to Zion

Don’t risk missing the spectacular Virgin River Gorge while
you’re driving through it at 75 mph (121 km/h). Pull over and
visit the Virgin River Canyon Recreation Area to see it in all its
glory.

Zion to Bryce Canyon

Take time out from driving to tour the Maynard Dixon Living
History Museum, where you’ll see the great painter’s
charming home and studio and his unique impressions of the
landscape.

Bryce Canyon to Capitol Reef

Learn about Ancestral Puebloans and their architecture at the
Anasazi State Park Museum.

Capitol Reef to Moab

At Utah’s first national monument, Natural Bridges National
Monument, see a few of Mother Nature’s wonders.

Moab to Monument Valley

See a Chacoan great house at Edge of the Cedars State
Park Museum.
Both Goosenecks State Park and Valley of the Gods
offer stunning views of the Utah landscape.
 Mesa Verde to Santa Fe
Stop at Pagosa Springs, a wooded resort town along the San
Juan River, to soak your road-weary bones in the world’s
deepest natural hot spring.

Pagosa Springs, Colorado

Day 5
MOAB TO SOUTH RIM GRAND CANYON
330 miles (530 km) / 6 hours
It’s a 330-mile (530-km), six-hour drive on US 191, US 163, then US
160 from Moab to Grand Canyon National Park’s South Rim.
The route crosses much of the western Navajo Nation and passes
right through Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park. Take a few
hours to explore the park. Time your trip to have lunch at the Blue
Coffee Pot Restaurant in Kayenta, about 30 miles (48 km) south
of Monument Valley.

South Rim of the Grand Canyon

From Kayenta, take US 160 West to US 89 South, then AZ 64

West to the Desert View entrance of the Grand Canyon. Spend
the night at El Tovar or the Bright Angel Lodge.

Day 6
SOUTH RIM GRAND CANYON
Walk along the park’s Rim Trail for outstanding, accessible views of
the canyon. In Grand Canyon Village, stop into the Hopi House
to see Native American art and the Lookout Studio, where you can
use telescopes set up on the outdoor terrace to get better views of
canyon features. Get a meal at the El Tovar Dining Room or Fred
Harvey Burger.
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the Rockingham House, a small but admirable hotel. Finally the fog
cleared away, and, in company with several other yachts detained
like the Frolic, we were able to put to sea. Our long detention at the
last two ports made it necessary to head for home. We passed the
first night of our return voyage at Pigeon Cove. The entrance is only
wide enough to admit the passage of one ship. The following day we
towed the Frolic out in a calm, and took a breeze off Straitmouth
Channel. The tide being well up, we concluded to try this hazardous
passage, which is only reasonably safe at high tide with a leading
wind. We were bowling along quietly and comfortably, when in a
most unexpected manner the Frolic landed on the top of a rock
scarce four feet below the surface. She was caught only by the
stern-post and the bow lay loose. The rock was evidently steep and
pointed, for the yacht rocked dangerously from side to side and
threatened to capsize. We all ran forward to the bow, and our weight
depressed the bow and caused the stern to float. Our escape was
such a relief that we felt it essential to offer a libation to Bacchus.
Once through the channel, we took a staving nor’west breeze,
which swept us down to Point Shirley by four o’clock. By careful
manœuvring we succeeded in bringing the Frolic safely back to her
berth opposite Long Wharf in time to go on shore and take a bath,
followed by a jolly dinner at one of the excellent restaurants with
which Boston is better supplied now than it was only a few years
ago.
Thus ended a cruise which was attended by no remarkable
adventures nor extended over much time, but was none the less
attended by much pleasure as well as decided advantages to the
health of all concerned. We earnestly recommend a similar
experience to the reader, simply adding that cruising on that coast
requires experience in things nautical, and is sufficiently hazardous
not to be trifled with by those who are ignorant of seamanship and
boat-sailing. Before closing, the writer would suggest that for
cruising and dodging from port to port, I find the schooner rig
preferable to that of the sloop, and should not again select a sloop
for such a purpose. Small schooners of the size of the Frolic are
much more common in New England than New York. But such are
the advantages of this rig that it is singular it is not more the fashion
for cruising in an inexpensive manner.
 FOR VOLUME XIV.

OUTING closes its thirteenth volume with this issue. The many readers that have come to us since we
began the volume last October furnish an unmistakable evidence that OUTING has given great
satisfaction to the lovers of sport. Slowly and steadily OUTING has improved. But the changes hitherto
made have not been so marked as those about to be made.
The success of OUTING has been brought about by striving to present, in the most attractive dress,
both artistic and literary, only such subjects as appeal, directly and closely, to the tastes and proclivities
of the ever-increasing army of genuine lovers of sport and recreation.
In the fourteenth volume of OUTING, the best literature, descriptive of every phase of legitimate sport
as participated in by ladies and gentlemen, will predominate.
In the hands of such mighty hunters as the late Gen. R. B. Marcy, Lieutenant Robertson, Mr. G. O.
Shields and Capt. Jack Crawford, the crack of the rifle will be heard in the pages of OUTING. The almost
inaccessible fastnesses of the gigantic mountain chains which traverse America and provide a very
paradise for the lover of the biggest kind of game hunting will be penetrated, and the thrilling scenes
and exciting adventures of following the elk, moose, bear, deer and other game will be presented to our
readers.
The streams, rivers and lakes of this continent afford finer fishing than any other quarter of the
globe. The salmon of the St. Lawrence and Saskatchewan, the lordly muskallonge of the Nor’west, the
bass and trout of a thousand streams from Maine to California offer such sport as is not to be
mentioned in the same breath with what one gets on the fly-whipped waters of Scotland, Ireland and
Norway; and OUTING will present to its readers authentic records of the experiences of the best known
adepts of this most fascinating sport.
Nothing is more remarkable in the general athletic revival of to-day than the great attention that is
given to the physical recreation and development of the fair sex. This good work OUTING has always
fostered, and to lead our gentle sisters into the joyous sports afield, we will offer them articles on
camping, rowing and swimming, and also practical hints for horsemanship and fishing.
 Recognizing that the dog is the sportsman’s best friend and most constant companion, OUTING is
ready with a series of papers on the breeding, breaking and training of the different breeds of dogs
used in the chase. Mr. Mercer will treat of Clumber Spaniels, Mr. Anthony of Pointers, and other writers
will write of setters and hounds for deer-coursing, hunting, etc.
For the sportsman who, over lea and bracken and swamp and meadow and upland, follows the
partridge, the quail and the woodcock, OUTING, in the coming volume, will have a rich treasure of useful
as well as interesting reading. We have reminiscences of duck shooting in Canada, California, Oregon
and other celebrated haunts, not forgetting, of course, the pleasures of Chesapeake Bay and the
delights of the Carolinas and Florida.
In the field of general athletics, OUTING may justly claim to have done much; and the appreciation
already manifested in our Club and College articles by all classes of readers has determined us to give
this branch of our work its full share of prominence in the coming volume.
Summer field sports will, of course, find ample representation in OUTING. Mr. H. J. Slocum, Jr., Mr.
Taylor, and other prominent players and writers on Lawn Tennis, will fully describe the interest taken in
this widely popular game. Articles will appear on tennis on the Pacific slope, the South, and the more
brilliant achievements at Newport, Staten Island, Orange, and other fashionable centres of the game.
Cricket in England, Australia and America will be fully discussed, while Baseball, Lacrosse, and the
popular pastime of Lawn Bowls, will be the themes of handsomely illustrated articles.
Rowing has at all times been a most popular exercise among college and club men, and OUTING will
publish a very valuable series of papers on the EVOLUTION OF FORM IN COLLEGE AND AMATEUR ROWING. The
recognized leading authorities on this subject have prepared these articles, and they will be one of the
most attractive features of the coming numbers. While properly representing the brethren of the oar,
OUTING has by no means forgotten the wielders of the paddle, and canoeists will find many a pleasant
sketch of cruising and camping in the summer pages of OUTING.
In Yachting matters OUTING has always led the van, and we propose to present to our aquatic friends
a fine galaxy of yachting literature during the coming season. The Larchmont Club will open the ball,
and this article will be followed by others on the Seawanhaka, Eastern, and other prominent
organizations. The illustrations for these articles will embrace reproductions from photographs of the
leading flyers and “cracks” in each fleet, and the whole will be a most valuable collection of modern
boats.
The marvelous results that can be obtained by the modern instantaneous camera, and the
comparatively little trouble given by adding an outfit to one’s camp or field kit, makes photography a
prominent feature in any expedition nowadays. In fact, photography may be aptly called a picture diary,
which chronicles scenes and episodes more vividly and graphically than the most brilliant and
epigrammatic collection of notes. OUTING will, therefore, furnish a series of short, pithy papers on
photography, and Mr. Ellerslie Wallace, who writes the articles, is an instructor from whom all will be
proud to learn.
Continent may differ from continent, nation from nation, in language, religion, and government, but
sport is cosmopolitan, its literature is universal, its followers are brothers all the world over. Thus we
find sportsmen in Europe are just as eager to read the doings by “flood and field” in America as
Americans are interested in all that appertains to sport across the sea. OUTING, then, must of necessity
be international, and with this idea in view the Editor and Manager of OUTING went to Europe recently to
look over the field in England and on the continent, and returned bringing many MSS. and illustrations
with him in his portmanteau, and his pockets lined with contracts for articles that will make the
fourteenth volume an evidence of a good work done.
“Plantagenet,” whose name is familiar wherever English sport is known, will contribute regularly
hereafter, and his introduction in this issue is sufficient to acquaint those who never read his writings
with the great gain this connection brings to OUTING in the department of hunting and racing on British
soil.
 “Rockwood,” who has heretofore occasionally written for our pages, will hereafter address us at
frequent intervals on sport with the Rod and Gun. “Redspinner,” than whom none writes better of the
pleasures of Walton’s disciples, will contribute a series of papers. Mr. Dalziel, who has become one of
the best living authorities on the Kennel, has taken in hand the kennel interests in Great Britain; and Mr.
R. H. Moore, the clever English dog-artist, will furnish the illustrations, so that ere Vol. 14 closes the
friends of the Kennel will have secured with its six numbers a pretty good history on matters canine in
England and America. Lady Arnold has contributed a series of articles on Yachting, to be followed by
valuable papers on this subject from other writers. A special correspondent has been sent by OUTING to
the Mediterranean, and Yachting in Southern Europe will be the topic of a series of valuable papers to
our yachtsmen.
Friends of the wheel have been specially cared for, and Mr. Joseph Pennell, who needs no
introduction to cyclers, is now engaged on a series of articles and illustrations that will give OUTING a
new look altogether. But, aside from these and other valuable papers, we have the pleasure of
announcing the return of Mr. Howarth from the Azores, whither he was sent by OUTING, at great
expense, with cycle, gun, and camera, to explore the islands of the sea; and the articles on Cycling in
Mid-Atlantic, illustrated by Harry Fenn and Joseph Pennell, will prove one of the greatest attractions that
any magazine ever offered to its readers. Lady Brierly will contribute papers on the horse; and last, but
not least, the greatest of sporting writers, Capt. Hawley Smart, is now completing a sporting novel for
OUTING that will run through at least six numbers, and be one of the best stories ever given to magazine
pages.
OUTING has spared no pains to secure the best artists to illustrate its excellent literary material, and
with such a staff at our command as Harry Fenn, Henry Sandham, A. C. Corbould, Joseph Pennell, M. J.
Burns, R. H. Moore, J. W. Fosdick, Marie Guise, Eugene Bauer, and others of minor note, the readers
may look forward to seeing each subject that is illustrated done ample justice to.
OUTING having thus an international field to work in, the American editors have called to their
assistance a thoroughly competent English editor, whose authority and reputation on all sporting topics
is admitted on both sides of the Atlantic. For this most important position we are happy in obtaining the
services of no less a light than the world-renowned “Borderer,” who for the past decade has been one of
the leading contributors to every publication of reputation in England, and whose knowledge and
judgment in sporting matters is second to none. He needs no further introduction from us; let him
speak for himself.
* *
*

INTRODUCING OUR ENGLISH EDITOR.

I CANNOT outdo the Ethiopian in changing the color of my skin—even in putting on a new coat, the
color must be the same. The question of its fitting is a serious one, and you know, readers, how uneasy
and uncomfortable a thing it is to wear a new garment for the first time. You feel like a marked man.
When a schoolboy you were pinched by all the other boys in commemoration of the event, and however
proud you may have been of the fit, it took the edge considerably off your conceit to be asked, “Who’s
your tailor?”
And now that my old garment—the delight of many a play hour, the warm friend of my youth, the
custodian of my body in many a sport, the well-worn aid to health and strength—has been thrown aside
and taken to the old-clothes shop to be refitted, I find myself very like the nervous schoolboy about to
run the gauntlet of fresh critics, and perhaps ruthless ones; critics who know not the Borderer of old;
who have not followed his rambling prose through many years, and caught the drift of his sporting
thoughts; critics, too, whose tastes may not be so thoroughly in harmony with his as those of yore. And
yet, perhaps the fear is greater than the reason for it, and on the score of plenary indulgence at
starting, I shall try to make my new garment, the English editorship of OUTING, as appreciable as
possible to my new acquaintances. Would that I could say with Oliver Goldsmith—

“He cast off his friends as a huntsman his pack,

For he knew when he pleased he could whistle them back.”

OUTING is now our pet. Through it Borderer can speak to the world of sport.
What makes Jack a dull boy? The lack of OUTING.
“Funny name, that,” exclaimed a friend of mine the other day, “but, after all, very expressive.”
How we all look forward to our OUTING! Even those who have little chance of enjoying it. Do not they
also count the days of its possible coming? Every one to his taste. We are off, like greyhounds from the
slips, eager for sport, recreation or travel. Here still oftener, and for a modest sixpence, is OUTING, to
make you learned in sport all the world over, and more worthy of your real happy outing when it comes.
As money and modes of locomotion increase and multiply, so will OUTING flourish until it spreads its
happy pages, like eagles’ wings, throughout the world. Neither sea nor land will stop the echo and re-
echo of its outspoken thoughts, and proportionately great will be the responsibility of its utterances, as
well as of those in whom it will confide as authors. To be a sportsman is one thing—to write of sport is
another. “I must be cruel only to be kind,” says Shakespeare. So truth, honesty and uprightness shall be
our leading characteristics. A true sportsman should be bold as a lion, steady as a rock, quick as an
arrow, ’cute as a coon, cautious as a man, hard as nails, sober as a judge, with the temper of an angel,
the eve of a lynx, the voice of a siren, and the nerve of a hero.
Taking these mighty attributes with us, my readers, let us launch our good ship on its transatlantic
voyage. Let us fancy ourselves like bold Æneas of old, about to venture on new scenes, and interview
the grandees of far-off countries, carrying with us the dauntless standard of sport. Ever foremost in the
fray, ever aloft as the acme of delight, ever where virtue and destiny call—then Borderer’s reward will
be signaled by the boundless success of his new venture—
OUTING.
BORDERER.
* *
*

DOG CHAT.

NEGOTIATIONS are now in progress between the presidents of the National Dog Club of America and
the American Kennel Club, with the object of bringing about some amicable arrangement between
factions, and it is quite on the cards that ere this is read they will have amalgamated, the members of
the N. D. C., in all probability joining as associate members of the A. K. C. The objectionable feature of
the “associate” scheme, insufficient representation, has been eliminated. Every 100 members will be
privileged to elect a representative who will be on the same footing as the delegates of the kennel
clubs. This should prove an eminently satisfactory arrangement.
It has been made evident that public sentiment leans to the elder organization (another
demonstration of the incomprehensibility of vox populi), and kennel matters, to all appearance, will be
best advanced by every one’s falling into line, and thereby securing a voice in the government of
dogdom. The A. K. C. makes fair promises, which, if fulfilled, should satisfy all. If they fail, why, the
traces can be again kicked over.
This will be a busy season in dogdom, as an important show is scheduled-for each week from
January to the end of April, and others, not as yet announced, will probably run well on into the month
of May. Truly may it be said that dog shows are advancing in public favor when such can be the case.
 The four important Field Trial meetings (those of the Indiana, Eastern, Southern and American F. T.
clubs) are now things of the past, and taking them as a whole they have not received the liberal
patronage of former years. As usual, the Memphis and Avent Kennel of Tennessee has swept everything
before it, and equally, of course, the blood of old “Count Noble” is again to the front.
The Hempstead fox-terrier coursing has caused a considerable stir of late. While I am not in
sympathy with the proceedings of the “Alphabetical” Society in this matter, I cannot make out just
where the “sport” comes in in seeing a benumbed and scared “bunny” chased and killed by terriers. We
are told that the “course” frequently takes less than thirty seconds’ time to decide, and that the rabbit
never escapes. Now this, to my way of thinking, damns it as a field sport, the fascination in which is the
element of uncertainty it contains; the knowledge that your skill and training, or your dog’s, is pitted
against the natural cunning and quickness of the beast or bird pursued, and in the knowledge that the
quarry has a chance for its life. Take away this and I am sure field sports will lose many of those who
are at present devoted to them. Give the rabbits fair “law,” a chance for their lives, then it will be a
legitimate sport.
An extraordinarily high-priced lot of greyhounds recently changed hands under the hammer in
London. They were the property of Mr. Dent, who has given up coursing for the present. The puppy
Fullerton was sold at 850 guineas to Colonel North, while Bit o’ Fashion was bought by the same
purchaser for 200 guineas, also Miss Glendyne for 510 guineas. Huic Holloa fetched 350 guineas, and
Jester 190 guineas. The prices paid throughout were high.
The English St. Bernard, Prince Battenberg, who once beat Plinlimmon, is for sale. His owner, Mr.
King-Patten, announces that he has received an offer of 2,000 guineas for the dog, from an American. I
fear some one has been “pulling his leg.”
DOGWHIP.
* *
*

COLLEGE SPORTS.

EXCEPTIONALLY fine weather, October temperature, has made it possible for active college youths to
practice various pastimes which are usually relegated to obscurity or the gymnasium during the cold
winter months. Games of ball, lacrosse and tennis have been played in the open air, and in some places
crews have been out in their frail shells. That boating will be very popular this spring seems assured if
the interest shown by Yale, Harvard, Columbia, Cornell, and the University of Pennsylvania in the doings
of their respective crews is any indication. With the return to college from the Christmas vacation the
serious work of training conscientiously and intelligently began, and now the weeding-out process will
soon begin. Harvard naturally expects great things from the tank. In January, the crew was able to do
some rowing on the Charles, which, with work in the gymnasium and in the tank has given the crew a
very good send-off. At no time previous has there been so wide-spread an interest in correct, scientific
rowing as at present, and every effort is made by the captain to get the most out of his crew, not as
one ordinarily would suppose, by getting his men to develop muscle and pull for all there was in them,
but by studying the possibilities of each member and so combining them according to scientific
principles as to yield the best results. This method is in vogue at Harvard and at Yale, where Bob Cook
and prominent graduates, members of former crews, for months before the great race, consult and
figure upon the material at hand, and endeavor to get it into shape.
The other sports, baseball and track athletics, are not being neglected by their admirers. The
fleetfooted sprinters have been taking part in the several meetings of the Amateur Union and the
National Association, and are consequently in comparatively good trim. With this attention to sport
which the majority of college youths give, even in the many small institutions which can not boast of
possessing well-equipped gymnasiums and track facilities, there is fast growing up a race which will be
as superior to the men of to-day as the present generation of young men is superior to those of twenty
years ago.
J. C. GERNDT.
 WHAT YACHTING COSTS.

WHAT does yachting cost? That to be able to own and properly maintain a large yacht a man must
have a good solid bank account to draw upon, is a truth; but that one in very moderate circumstances
may enjoy all the pleasures of yachting is also true. Where there is one man who is able to own and run
an Electra or a Volunteer, there are hundreds of Corinthian yachtsmen who have “fun alive” with boats
of from fifteen to forty feet in length.
To state exactly, or even approximately, what yachting costs is well-nigh as difficult as to guess the
correct number of hairs on a man’s head. But a very good general idea may be obtained by drawing
deductions from well-known data.
If old Commodore John C. Stevens, the first flag-officer of the New York Yacht Club, were alive to-
day, he would be surprised as well as delighted to observe the wonderful growth and improvement
yachting has made since his time, nearly half a century ago, and no doubt he would hold up his hands
in amazement at the increase in the luxuriousness of the appointments of a yacht during the same
period.
The New York Yacht Club was organized in 1844, by Mr. Stevens and others, and was the outcome
of the first organized effort ever made in this country to popularize yachting. The yachts of those days
were few in number, and of small tonnage, The Maria, Commodore Stevens’ last yacht, though in her
time a giant among her sister yachts, would be rated as only of average size compared with the larger
pleasure craft of to-day. Her appointments, too, though far superior to those of her contemporaries,
were very commonplace and inexpensive as compared with the palatial luxuriance of the interior fittings
of any of the large yachts now afloat. To spend $20,000 at that time in building and equipping a yacht
was considered extraordinary, if not a financial impossibility, for any man except Commodore Stevens,
who, as the owner of nearly all of Hoboken and Weehawken, was estimated to be about the wealthiest
man in America.
Since the organization of the New York Yacht Club, however, and especially since the success of the
yacht America in England, each succeeding year has witnessed a multiplication of yachts, an increase in
their size, and especially an augmentation of the luxuriance of their furnishings that have excited the
wonder and admiration of the yachting world.
The yachts America, Julia, Una, and Widgeon, of the early period of American yachting history, were
prodigies of their day and generation in respect to speed and size. All four were productions of that
famous designer, George Steers, and were invincible against vessels built by other designers of the
period. In this respect Edward Burgess, of Boston, concededly holds to-day the place occupied by
George Steers thirty-five years ago; and the former designer’s Puritan, Mayflower, Sachem, and
Volunteer have to-day a relative standing among yachts very much like that which George Steers’
productions enjoyed in their generation.
The total cost of all the yachts of forty years ago was less than that of Mr. William K. Vanderbilt’s
yacht Alva alone. Two hundred thousand dollars would have been sufficient to buy the entire fleet. Year
by year the amount of money expended for yachts has kept pace with the steady increase of the wealth
of the country, till now it exceeds several millions of dollars annually. What the magnificent fleet of
vessels which constitute the squadron of the New York Yacht Club to-day cost to build, rig, spar and
furnish, represents an outlay of more than $3,500,000. The yachts at present enrolled in the New York
Yacht Club number 184. Of these sixty-seven are schooners, sixty-five sloops, cutters and yawls, forty-
six steamers and six launches. The tonnage of these 184 vessels aggregates 18,000 tons. The very best
estimate obtainable from figures shows that it costs $200 per ton to build, rig, and fully furnish the
average American yacht ready for cruising.
Instead of the one yacht club of 1844, there were on May 1, 1888, 101 incorporated yacht clubs in
America. Of the yachting associations not yet advanced to the dignity of incorporated bodies, there are
doubtless from two to three times as many more. These clubs are to be found in almost every harbor
on the great lakes, and on every bay, lake, river and creek from one end of the land to the other. In
fact, wherever there is a sufficient body of water to sail some kind of a boat upon, there will surely be
found some sort of an association for the promotion of yachting. From very careful estimates made from
records of yacht building, rigging and furnishing, which have been kept for years, the total tonnage of
all sailing or steam vessels owned and run exclusively for purposes of pleasure in this country, on May
1, 1888, was 203,575, representing an aggregate money-value investment of $40,715,000. In view of
these large figures, and they are increasing every year, the widespread and increasing interest taken in
yachting events is hardly to be wondered at. The money estimate must be more than doubled, too,
when “running expenses” are considered.
It is with a yacht very much as it is with a horse—it is not so much the buying as the keeping that
makes the money go. The first cost of a yacht is, of course, very heavy, and it is estimated that this
outlay, with the money spent in keeping the boats and running them, annually puts in circulation
millions of dollars. The greatest item of expense in running a yacht is the pay of the crew. A vessel like
the Volunteer, for example, gives employment for six months of the year to fifteen men. Mr. Vanderbilt’s
steam-yacht Alva carries a crew of 100 men, and the smaller of the cabin-yachts, say of about twenty-
five tons, require, to properly handle them, a sailing-master, cook, and three men before the mast. All
told, the yachts of the New York Yacht Club furnish employment of this kind to more than 2,500 men, to
whom the yacht owners pay not less than $125,000 per month for six months of each year, or $750,000
for the six months. As the average number of yachts belonging to each of the 101 yacht-clubs of the
country is thirty-three, the result shows that there is, or was on May 1, 1888, a total of 3,333 yachts
enrolled in the incorporated yacht clubs of the United States; and carrying out the extensions as based
upon the estimate of the New York Yacht Club, the results show that these 3,333 yachts give
employment to 45,289 men, to whom wages amounting to $2,264,450 are paid monthly, or the
enormous sum of $13,586,700 for a season of six months. It may be not altogether proper to base the
number and pay of crews for the yachts of the whole country upon figures of the New York Yacht Club,
for the vessels of that club undoubtedly ton higher on the average than the vessels of the less
prominent clubs; but it must be remembered that in getting at these figures only the incorporated
associations have been considered, and the hundreds and even thousands of yachts belonging to minor
associations, and the many yachts which fly the flag of no club at all, have not been taken into the
calculation. From this point of view, the figures for crews and their salaries as given above furnish about
as good an idea of the totals as it is possible to obtain.
Again, a yacht which is kept up in good shape has to have her rigging renewed constantly, and then
there are the items of new sails, repainting and overhauling on the dry dock. These expenses cannot be
estimated, and it is simply impossible to make a respectable guess, but it amounts to hundreds of
thousands of dollars each year.
 One of the largest, and in some respects the largest, item of expense in running a yacht is the
steward’s department, but it is impossible even to approximately estimate what is annually spent in this
very important department. One yacht owner may spend $15,000 a year entertaining a great number of
guests at his table, while another man, with the same yacht may find one-third of that amount ample
for the same purpose; but the sum of money put in circulation for ship stores and table furnishings may
safely be put down as double the sum per month paid to the crew and officers in wages, or $1,500,000
for the yachting season of six months of the fleet of the New York Yacht Club alone. Thus the total
amount of money put in circulation in one season by the yacht owners of this one club will not fall short
of $3,500,000.
If the expenditure for maintaining the 184 yachts of the New York Yacht Club is $3,500,000 a year, it
is not improbable that not less than $7,000,000 is spent on the 3,333 pleasure and racing craft of the
101 yacht clubs of the entire country for a like period of time.
There are other expenses which can be neither classified nor estimated, such as, for instance, the
hiring of extra men for races; the payment of prize money to the crews of race-winners; repairs
following collisions, running ashore, carrying away of sails and spars, and a thousand-and-one other
things. Altogether, it is not overestimating the case to say that American yacht owners put $7,000,000
into the hands of workmen and tradesmen last year, and this amount bids fair to increase annually. That
which is put into new boats is not included in this calculation at all, and easily amounted to $1,000,000
more.
The steamers and the large sloops built of recent years have tended to very greatly augment the
expenditure of money on yachts. The steamers, especially, are a very expensive luxury. With them the
coal bill is an additional and large item.
Some very wild estimates have been made as to what it costs to run one of the largest steam-
yachts. It has been said that it costs Jay Gould $3,000 a day to run the Atalanta. This is absurd. Vice-
Commodore E. A. Bateman, of the American Yacht Club, who owns the steam-yacht Meteor, once was
heard to say that he ran her at an expense of $35 a day; and several years ago, when Mr. James
Gordon Bennett owned the Dauntless, and was commodore of the New York Yacht Club, he is said to
have remarked that it cost him $25,000 a year to entertain his guests alone. Probably the most
expensively run yacht to-day is the Electra, the flagship of the New York Yacht Club. It is said that she
costs Commodore Gerry $35,000 a year. But a yacht of fifty tons, if economy be practiced, and she be
not raced, may be run at a very modest cost.
Many thousands of men enjoy all the sport to be had out of pleasure-sailing in a craft whose first
cost, completely equipped, was but $1,000 or less. Such a yacht can be run at a very slight expense.
Craft of this kind are called “single-handers,” from the fact that it requires but one man to handle them.
Their number is large at present, and they are rapidly growing in popular favor. If the cost of such
vessels, of yachts which are not enrolled in any club, and the boats of the numerous canoe-clubs, were
added to the figures given as representing the amount invested in the pleasure vessels of the United
States, the aggregate would be something enormous.
ROBERT DILLON.

HOW’S THIS FOR BASS?

THERE are odd places in and around the waters of New York where the enthusiastic fisherman can
find plenty of sport at his favorite pastime. One day, toward the close of September, W. E. Sibley, of this
city, an angler of some repute, and a companion, Mr. Del. Ruch, of Clifford’s, Staten Island, set out to
troll for striped bass in the Great Kills. After they had trolled for some time, and had landed only a few
one and two pounders, the sport grew tame, and Del. Ruch left Sibley’s boat and joined another
fisherman to change his luck. Instead of Ruch finding luck it came to Sibley. In a few minutes after Ruch
had left, Sibley’s troll was seized, and he found himself struggling with a bass of more than ordinary
fight. A lively tussle took place. The fish had no idea of surrendering, and for half an hour the fish and
the fisherman had a nip-and-tuck time of it. Finally the bass, wearied and worn out, yielded slowly, and
when it was brought alongside of the boat it showed up magnificently. It was a monster. Though
conquered, the fish was not captured. A difficulty arose regarding the ways and means about getting it
into the boat. There was no gaff-hook handy. Mr. Sibley was perplexed. The thought of losing that bass,
when it was so near and yet so far, nearly unnerved him. He was equal to the occasion, however.
Holding the line stiff, Sibley ran his hand along the fish, slipped it in beneath the immense gill covering,
and lugged the big fellow into the boat after a great effort. When measured and weighed, it lacked just
half an inch of three feet, and tipped the scale at eighteen pounds. It is said to be the largest striped
bass on record caught within twenty miles of New York.
 OUR THEATRICAL PLAYGROUND.

“THE PLAYERS.”

PERHAPS the most notable event in the players’ world, with which
the new year was ushered in, was the presentation by Edwin Booth
to the organization of leading actors known as “The Players,” of a
magnificent club-house in Grammercy Park. As the old year drew to
a close there assembled a brilliant audience of players and guests,
and at the stroke of twelve Mr. Booth handed over the deed to the
property to Mr. Augustin Daly, of “The Players.” Mr. Booth closed his
presentation speech in the following happy manner: “Though
somewhat past the season, let us now fire the Yule-log, with the
request that it be burnt as an offering of ‘love, peace and good-will
to The Players.’ While it burns, let us drink from this loving cup,
bequeathed by William Warren of loved and honored memory to our
no less valued Jefferson, and by him presented to us; from this cup
and this souvenir of long ago—my father’s flagon—let us now,
beneath his portrait and on the anniversaries of this occupation,
drink: To the Players’ Perpetual Prosperity.”
Mr. Daly responded appropriately in behalf of the club, and after
a general grasping of hands, all adjourned to feast around the
generous board. In every way this new home is most complete, and
the decorations are handsome and solid. In the lounging room are
two oil paintings by Joseph Jefferson. Beside them hangs Sir Joshua
Reynolds’ celebrated portrait of David Garrick. There is also a
Gainsborough, and a portrait of John Gilbert by J. Alden Weir. A
goodly collection of dramatic literature fills the library on the second
floor, Mr. Booth having presented 1,200 volumes, and Mr. Lawrence
Barrett 2,000, besides a large number of rare works from Augustin
Daly, T. B. Aldrich, Stanford White and others. An excellent maxim is
found directly above the great seal of the order, which is inserted in
the ornamental brickwork under the mantelpiece. It reads thus:

“Good friends, for friendship’s sake forbeare

To utter what is gossip heare
In social chatt, lest unawares
Thy tongue offende thy fellow-plaiers.”

OLD ENGLISH COMEDY.

FOR his annual comedy revival Mr. Daly has chosen Capt. George
Farquhar’s “The Inconstant; or, the Way to Win Him.” This play has
not been seen in this city since 1873, and in Mr. Daly’s hands the
somewhat doubtful morale of the play has been improved, and thus
the revival was practically a first performance of the play. The
change to suit modern ideas has been admirably effected, though
possibly the fifth act might have been subjected to closer
censorship. It is needless to say that Mr. Daly’s band of players acted
their parts well. The public has come to accept that as almost a
foregone conclusion. Miss Rehan as Oriana is the same person that
has pleased us so long, but in the mad scene she strikes a key that
is almost pathetic. The “Inconstant” may be looked upon as a
success.

SHAKESPEARE AT PALMER’S.

PLAY-GOERS in New York have no reason to feel dissatisfied with

the feast spread before them this season. Shakespeare has not been
neglected for the newer generation of writers. Rarely has a play,
however, been put on the stage in a more complete way, with
greater magnificence and attention to details, than “Antony and
Cleopatra.” Mr. Abbey has spared no expense, and surely it would be
difficult to find an actress to look the part better than Mrs. James
Brown Potter. Whatever may be her faults, she has succeeded in
ridding herself of some of them, and in gesture, walk and pose this
improvement is most marked. She still lacks facility in expressive
speaking. Thus the presentation is of a spectacular sort, and on that
fact will have to depend success or failure. The single scene which
perhaps impresses the interested spectator most is revealed in the
entrance of Cleopatra’s barge—“a bizarre painting of Egypt’s
historical convoy, with its flowing sails of magenta, its glittering front
and sides, its silver oars, its fawning slaves, and, over all, the tinkle
of drowsy music.” The acting version of the play is by Mr. Kyrle
Bellew, who himself assumes the character of Antony. He is not a
roystering old ruffian; one does not behold scarred limbs and
grizzled locks. The Antony of Kyrle Bellew is tender in speech, soft in
action, and ever the lover. The play is scheduled for an extended
run, and will doubtless receive a generous share of attention.

MACBETH.

AT the Fifth Avenue Theater Mrs. Langtry has been acting Lady
Macbeth, and has won a good measure of success, which deserves
recognition for the reason that her conception of the part differs
from that acceptable to most Americans. Charlotte Cushman’s Lady
Macbeth was a grim, imperious virago, and we have accepted that
version as the true one. In Irving’s celebrated revival of the play,
Ellen Terry presents a coaxing, loving, charming contradiction to the
Cushman model. Mrs. Langtry has chosen a middle path. While not
wholly able to cope successfully with the part, she gives a
thoroughly interesting portrayal. In the sleep-walk scene she is
bravely original. Utterly sacrificing her comeliness, she comes out
from her bedroom like a veritable corpse from a tomb, a figure to
shudder at in a theatre and to fly from if met near a churchyard.
While her reading of this particular scene will call forth some
condemnation perhaps, considerate judgment must also accord
praise.
The Macbeth of Mr. Charles Coghlan was thoughtful, but hardly
satisfactory. It lacks the fire and passion which make the character
such a strong one in the hands of some actors. Mr. Joseph
Wheelock, as Macduff, was as successful as that conscientious actor
usually is in all he undertakes, and he called forth the enthusiasm of
all by his painstaking work. On the whole the venture may be looked
upon as a success.
 “THE Harvard Index” for 1888–89 is a very complete directory of the students and the
various literary and sporting organizations in college. A valuable feature is the list of best-on-
record performances, both collegiate and other, for America and England.

ONE of the best and most artistic college annuals is the Princeton, 90, “Bric-à-Brac.” Some
of the drawings are quite elaborate, and very much to the point. The records of the doings of
the different associations, and the list of students, are as complete as it was possible to make
them.

A SERIES of interesting books is issued by the well-known house of Lee & Shepard, under the
general title of “Good Company.” The name is well bestowed, and the thoughtful reader will
find, as he becomes acquainted with the various members of the company, that there is much
which he can note with profit. Not only is the company good, but the dress is neat and inviting.
The books before us are: “The Lover,” by Steele; “The Wishing-Cap Papers,” by Leigh Hunt;
“Fireside Saints,” by Douglas Jerrold; “Dream Thorpe,” by Alexander Smith; “A Physician’s
Problems,” by Charles Elam; “Broken Lights,” by Frances Power Cobbe, and “Religious Duties,”
by the same author.
The same publishing house has issued a new edition of Rev. P. C. Headley’s biography of
“Fighting Phil.” This book, intended for young readers, well describes the life of the dashing
general, and at this time, when his personal memoirs are receiving such marked attention, the
simpler story of Rev. Mr. Headley will be widely read by boys.

AN excellent library of sports and pastimes, the Badminton, is being issued by Longmans,
Green & Co. Those who are seeking for knowledge on any of the subjects dealt with will find
the results of many years’ experience written by men who are in every case adepts at the sport
of which they write. There have already appeared, “Hunting,” “Fishing,” “Racing and Steeple-
chasing,” “Cycling,” “Athletics and Football.” The latest additions to the library are “Boating” and
“Cricket.” The former volume is by W. B. Woodgate, a veteran oarsman; the latter by A. G.
Steel and the Hon. R. H. Lyttelton. The text is handsomely illustrated, and in every respect are
the volumes to be recommended. Every sportsman should have a complete set of this series of
books; they are an ornament to any library, and the information contained in them such as can
not readily be obtained in other books on sports.

“CRUISINGS in the Cascades,” by the well-known author G. O. Shields, is in the press of Rand,
McNally & Co., of Chicago. It is a record of an extended hunting tour, made by the author in
the Cascade Mountains in Oregon, Washington Territory, and British Columbia. The work is
handsomely illustrated from drawings and from instantaneous photographs taken by Mr.
Shields.

AN entertaining work, not only for grown people, but also for boys, is John Augustus
O’Shea’s “Military Mosaics.” The author has tried to be faithful to truth, and the language used
is as close an approach to that which men would speak under the circumstances as can well be
given in print. This effort on the part of the author is to be heartily commended, since boys are
naturally anxious to know if things are what they seem. In the author’s words, “There is not an
event set down which did not happen, or might not have happened, and to the soldier’s life, as
to all others, there is a seamy side.” Thus we are told of hardships, fatiguing marches,
exposure to all sorts of weather, and are impressed with the fact that the chief pleasures of
warfare are those of memory. Messrs. W. H. Allen & Co., London, are the publishers.
The same firm has brought out “Orient and Occident,” a journey east from Lahore to
Liverpool, by Major-General R. C. W. Reveley Mitford. It is a description of a home-coming by
routes little traveled. China, Japan and the United States are successively visited, and as the
author drifts from place to place he rather pleasantly gives us his impressions. The text is
embellished with illustrations from sketches by the author.
A useful book for the yachtsmen who wish to spend some time cruising in the
Mediterranean is “Shooting and Yachting in the Mediterranean,” by A. G. Bagot. Of course the
yachtsman always provides himself with guns, and is ever ready to “pepper away.” However, it
is rather the rule that he fails to bag his game. In “Shooting and Yachting” he will find much
useful information on this point, as well as learn of localities to be visited, dangers to be
avoided, etc. Not the least valuable part of Mr. Bagot’s work are the practical hints to
yachtsmen, and the list of yacht-clubs with which the book closes. Allen & Co., London, are the
publishers.

THE author of the “Book of the Black Bass” has issued through the press of Robert Clarke &
Co., Cincinnati, a supplement, which he calls very happily “More About the Black Bass.” In it he
presents the latest developments in the scientific and life history of this best of American game
fishes, and describes the most recent improvements in tools, tackle and implements. The little
work appears at a most opportune time.

IN his “Hunting Notes” “Borderer” gives a valuable resumé of the season’s work. While of no
direct interest to the American reader, these notes present an admirable picture of the way
hunting is done in Old England, and to those who follow the hounds in this country, and their
number is increasing from year to year, a perusal of “Hunting Notes” will be profitable and
entertaining. The publishers are A. H. Baily & Co., London.
I’M SINGLE NO LONGER, YOU KNOW.
’TWAS while kneeling at beauty’s fair shrine,
In the years that I fain would regain,
Spinster Fate drugged my vintage of wine,
And entangled me fast in her skein.
In the days ere my star’s sudden wane,
I was thought a most handsome young beau,
But I’m now called “decidedly plain,”
For I’m single no longer, you know!

Edith said that my eyes were divine

As we strolled thro’ the green country lane—
That the girls thought my figure was fine,
I discovered from sweet Mary Jane;
But alas for a once happy swain,
With the virtues of one year ago!
I am met with a haughty disdain,
For I’m single no longer, you know!

Tho’ these ballades and rondeaux of mine

Had the verdict of “quite in the vein,”
They say now I am shunned by the Nine,
And my verses are ruthlessly slain.
Tho’ by courtesy we are called twain,
’Tis my wife that comprises the Co.,
And of course I’ve no right to complain,
For I’m single no longer, you know!

In a word, to conclude the refrain,

I have hung up my fiddle and bow,
I have mortgaged my castles in Spain,
For I’m single no longer, you know!

Sanborn Gove Tenney.

FOR A PRESENT WHAT COULD BE BETTER
THAN A SUBSCRIPTION?

Among the Artists represented are:

 ELIHU VEDDER.
J. ALDEN WEIR.
J. W. TWACHTMAN.
M. J. BURNS.
WILLIAM HOLE.
GEORGE HITCHCOCK.
J. FRANCIS MURPHY.
WILL H. LOW.
W. H. GIBSON.
J. D. WOODWARD.
ROBERT BLUM.
C. JAY TAYLOR.
ALFRED KAPPES.
ELBRIDGE KINGSLEY.
BRUCE CRANE.
WALTER L. PALMER.

SCRIBNER’S MAGAZINE.
Christmas Number Now Ready.
The completion of the second year of SCRIBNER’S MAGAZINE will be
signalized by the publication of a remarkably beautiful and interesting
Christmas Number. There will be about sixty illustrations, one-third of
them full-pages of rich design.
ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON will contribute a second
instalment of his romantic novel, “The Master of Ballantrae,” strikingly
illustrated by William Hole.
H. C. BUNNER’S “Squire Five Fathom” is a delicate and finely
imagined story. C. Jay Taylor of Puck, will fully illustrate it.
REBECCA HARDING DAVIS will tell a story of life at a wayside
station in the North Carolina mountains. Illustrations by Alfred Kappes.
W. M. TABER will contribute an unusually ingenious tale of a
mystery entitled “Three Bad Men,” with illustrations by Francis Day and M.
 J. Burns.
JOHN J. à BECKETT will tell the story of a sentiment. Its title is
“The Roses of the Señor,” and it will be illustrated by Robert Blum.
WILL H. LOW, the artist, will describe the origin and rapid growth
in the United States of the art of making stained-glass windows; with
beautiful reproductions of windows by La Farge, Armstrong, Tiffany and
Lathrop.
WINTER IN THE ADIRONDACKS will be picturesquely
described by Hamilton Wright Mabie, and elaborately illustrated by W.
Hamilton Gibson, Bruce Crane, J. Francis Murphy, and J. D. Woodward.
LESTER WALLACK’S Reminiscences will be concluded; fully
illustrated with portraits—one, taken last summer, representing Mr.
Wallack at his country home, with his favorite dog at his feet.
GEORGE HITCHCOCK, the artist, will write of Botticelli.
Illustrations from drawings by the author.
ILLUSTRATED POEMS will be a feature of the number, one of
them, “THE LION OF THE NILE,” containing four pictures by ELIHU VEDDER.
MR. STEVENSON concludes for this year his series of monthly
papers with “A Christmas Sermon.”

The publishers of SCRIBNER’S MAGAZINE aim to make it the most

popular and enterprising of periodicals, while at all times preserving its
high literary character. 25,000 new readers have been drawn to it
during the past six months by the increased excellence of its contents
(notably the Railway articles), and it closes its second year with a new
impetus and an assured success. The illustrations will show some new
effects, and nothing to make SCRIBNER’S MAGAZINE attractive and
interesting will be neglected.

Price, 25 Cents a Number; $3.00 a Year.

CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS, 743–745 Broadway, N.
Y.
 FRAUDS IN POROUS
PLASTERS.
Those who cannot originate,
imitate, and all so-called
Porous Plasters are only
fraudulent imitations of
ALLCOCK’S. If you want the
genuine article, be certain not
only to ask for

“ALLCOCK’S,”

but look well at the plaster and

see that this

Trade Mark

is on every one. None are genuine

without it.
 ROYAL

BAKING
POWDER
ABSOLUTELY PURE.
This powder never varies. A marvel of
purity, strength and wholesomeness.
More economical than the ordinary kinds,
and cannot be sold in competition with
the multitude of low test, short weight,
alum or phosphate powders. Sold only in
cans. ROYAL BAKING POWDER CO., 106 Wall
St., N.Y.

GOLD MEDAL, PARIS, 1878.

BAKER’S
 Breakfast Cocoa.
Warranted absolutely pure Cocoa, from which the
excess of Oil has been removed. It has more than three
times the strength of Cocoa mixed with Starch
Arrowroot or Sugar, and is therefore far more
economical, costing less than one cent a cup. It is
delicious, nourishing, strengthening, easily digested,
and admirably adapted for invalids as well as for
persons in health.
Sold by Grocers everywhere.

W. BAKER & CO.,

Dorchester, Mass.

GOLD MEDAL, PARIS, 1878.

BAKER’S
Vanilla Chocolate
Like all our chocolates, is prepared with the greatest
care, and consists of a superior quality of cocoa and
sugar, flavored with pure vanilla bean. Served as a
drink, or eaten dry as confectionery, it is a delicious
article, and is highly recommended by tourists.
Sold by Grocers everywhere.

W. BAKER & CO.,

Dorchester, Mass.

UNITED STATES
 GOVERNMENT
AND OTHER DESIRABLE

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FOR

INVESTORS

HARVEY FISK & SONS,

BANKERS,
28 Nassau Street, New York.

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AMERICANS wishing a perfect gun should call
to be accurately measured, and we will build gun
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1 CONDUIT STREET, REGENT
STREET, LONDON.
 LORENZ REICH,
IMPORTER OF THE CHOICEST AND PUREST

HUNGARIAN
WINES,
Commended by the most Eminent Medical
Men of this Country.

THIS IS TO CERTIFY that I have examined Mr. Reich’s

TOKAYER AUSBRUCH, TOKAYER MASLAS, and BUDAI IMP. I take great
pleasure in commending these wines to the medical
profession because of their purity.
R. OGDEN DOREMUS, M.D., LL.D.,
Prof. of Chemistry and Toxicology, Bellevue Hospital Med.
Coll., and Prof. of Chemistry and Physics, Coll. City of N. Y.

Tokayer Ausbruch and Tokayer Maslas,

Vintage of 1874.
Somlayai Imp. (White Wine), and Budai Imp.
(Red Wine), Vintage of 1874.
SLIVOVITZ (Prune Brandy), 1868.

Sherries from the Vineyards of J. J. V.

VEGAS, Frontera, Spain.
RAYAS, PALO CORTADO, AMONTILLADO PASADO,
SANTO TOMAS.

ALSO, SOLE AGENT U. S. A. AND

CANADA, FOR THE FOLLOWING
BRANDS CHAMPAGNE:
MOIGNEAUX PERE ET FILS, DIZY, CUREE DE RESERVE,
TRES SEC, PRES EPERNAY.

LORENZ REICH, The Cambridge,

334 Fifth Avenue, New York.
Branch Office, 70 State St., Chicago, Ill.
Telephone Call, 318—39th St.
All orders promptly filled and shipped to any part of the
United States. Beware of Impositions, as unscrupulous
dealers are buying up my empty bottles.

The Kodak
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Anybody can use the KODAK
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