Zalando Case
Zalando Case
IMD-7-2401
30.09.2022
ZALANDO: A DIGITAL
FOUNDATION FOR FASHION
SUPPLY CHAIN SUCCESS
Researcher Dr Richard Markoff, David Schröder (COO, Zalando SE), Professor Arnd
Huchzermeier (WHU) and Professor Ralf W. Seifert (IMD) prepared this case as a
basis for class discussion rather than to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling
of a business situation.
Copyright © 2022 by IMD – International Institute for Management Development, Lausanne, Switzerland
(www.imd.org). No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form
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ZALANDO: A DIGITAL FOUNDATION FOR FASHION SUPPLY CHAIN SUCCESS
By 2021 Zalando had become Europe’s largest pure player in online fashion. But the
road to success had not always been smooth. Back in 2014, six years after it was
founded, the Germany-based company was at a crossroads. With an impending initial
public offering (IPO) and investors looking for results, the company was nowhere near
being profitable. To achieve profitability and market leadership, it would have to leverage
advanced technology and develop a data-driven supply chain. So, with the innovative
spirit of a startup, it embraced the challenge of building internal digital tools and
competencies to drive supply chain efficiencies and capture growth opportunities.
The online fashion supply chain had to wrestle with the same challenges of tight margins
and high customer expectations familiar to all online retailers. However, the fashion
industry faced other unique challenges – high SKU counts, high seasonality, relentless
product turnover and frighteningly elevated return rates.
By developing proprietary systems and machine learning tools, Zalando developed a
responsive, flexible distribution network, trustworthy order promises and a sophisticated,
holistic approach to returns management.
Through a data-driven journey born out of a crisis, Zalando discovered that these
capabilities not only delivered supply chain excellence and pioneering new innovative
techniques but also helped to fulfill the company’s vision of providing endless choice,
seamless convenience and a tailored digital experience to millions of customers
across Europe.
COMPANY BACKGROUND
Among the various products available online in Europe, none was more popular than
fashion items like clothes, accessories and shoes (see Exhibit 2). In 2020, 63% of online
shoppers purchased apparel and fashion accessories, more than double the next biggest
category – prepared meals. Taken together, the online fashion and accessories market
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ZALANDO: A DIGITAL FOUNDATION FOR FASHION SUPPLY CHAIN SUCCESS
in Europe was worth about €172 billion in 2021, 1 with 30% of total sales occurring
through online channels. 2
Zalando was the largest fashion-only online vendor in Europe, with Otto being its closest
European competitor although there was a big gap between Zalando and other vendors
(see Exhibit 3). However, considering all e-commerce sites, including those offering
more than fashion, the largest online fashion retailers globally were Alibaba (China),
Amazon (US) and jd.com (China). 3
In 2019 the company set its vision to be The Starting Point for Fashion. The vision rested
on three pillars: Offering its customers endless choice, seamless convenience and a
tailored digital experience.
In 2021 Zalando had over 48 million active customers 4 in 23 markets (see Exhibit 4). Its
customers were very loyal, with 47% of them visiting the company’s website at least five
times per month. To support its sales, Zalando had 13 fulfillment centers across Europe,
with another 3 projected to open by 2023 (see Exhibit 5). The company’s earnings
before interest and taxes (EBIT) amounted to €424.7 million on revenue of €10.35 billion,
for a profit margin of 4.1% (see Exhibit 6).
Zalando offered over 5,800 different brands and 17 private labels and began branching
out into complementary categories such as beauty (see Exhibit 7 for website image).
The product catalogue almost doubled in size from 2017 to 2020, to reach 890,000
products. Considering different size and color options, the total number of stock-keeping
1
https://www.statista.com/forecasts/890785/e-commerce-revenue-in-europe-fashion-by-
segments
2
https://www.themds.com/companies/top-fashion-retailers-in-europe-after-covid-19-amazon-
leads-italy-intersport-takes-france.html
3 https://www.deraktionaer.de/artikel/commerce-brands-unicorns/amazon-alibaba-ebay-wer-hat-
die-nase-vorn-20227193.htm
4
An active customer is defined as having placed at least one order in the last year.
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ZALANDO: A DIGITAL FOUNDATION FOR FASHION SUPPLY CHAIN SUCCESS
units (SKUs) amounted to about 2 million discrete articles for sale at Zalando, with more
than 2,000 new products added every day.
In the early days, customers used their desktop computers to place an order. Since the
introduction of the Zalando app in 2012, however, mobile traffic had steadily grown and
in 2021 accounted for around 90% of visits and more than 50% of sales. The introduction
of the app led to more frequent orders, and app customers were also much more
engaged through, for example, adding to wish lists, checking for new products or
discounted offers, and benefiting from the services of the loyalty program.
Launched in 2017, Zalando Fulfillment Solutions gave brands the opportunity to use the
company’s logistics network as a logistics provider to fulfill partner orders received
through Zalando. The three main value propositions of Zalando Fulfillment Solutions
were (1) its highly localized delivery and returns solutions to enable cross-border e-
commerce within Europe, (2) the sharing of warehousing and shipping costs between
different sellers, and (3) the flexible pay-by-use offering allowing partners to scale up and
down without upfront investments and fixed costs.
The growth of the platform business was reflected not just in the company’s revenue but
also in the notion of gross merchandise value (GMV), which captured the value of all the
goods sold on the Zalando platform, irrespective of whether they were sold by Zalando
itself or by its partners. GMV almost tripled from the launch of the platform concept in
2017 through 2021 (see Exhibit 8), and the platform business thus represented a
growing share of site traffic, customer orders and items shipped through its physical
distribution network.
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ZALANDO: A DIGITAL FOUNDATION FOR FASHION SUPPLY CHAIN SUCCESS
What made us learn most were the crisis moments. There was no clearly
defined strategy in the early years and yet we realized that to be a
successful fashion e-commerce company we needed to be a successful
logistics and technology company.
Zalando recognized that one of the largest obstacles to scaling the company was that its
information technology (IT) could hardly cope with the ever-rising needs of a fast-growing
company. The tools available at the time were simply not up to the task of managing the
complexity and scope of Zalando’s operations. According to David:
In 2013 we ended with a loss of more than €100 million. At some point, we
would need to turn profitable to fund our growth and not lose the
confidence of investors. It was time to focus on driving efficiency and
operational excellence and we started to standardize and automate our
logistics processes and to build proprietary and scalable technology
solutions and infrastructure.
Company-wide enterprise resource planning (ERP) systems at the time were built with
a market-specific logic, explained David. Zalando could not easily consider all of its
countries as one market for the purposes of distribution, and its IT systems were
inadvertently creating silos that the company wished to avoid. Furthermore, these third-
party systems, which had been largely optimized for offline retail use cases, were unable
to cope with the rapidly growing number of countries, customers, categories, products
and orders.
At the level of execution in the distribution centers, the warehouse management systems
(WMS) available on the market were incapable of managing the volume and complexity
of a significant pure e-commerce player in terms of the number of different products,
shipping destinations and transporters to integrate. The underlying data architecture was
not able to manage the high number of product attributes Zalando needed to fully capture
and describe its products. On the front end, the same issues were present, with the
added complexity of having to manage several countries, local payment and delivery
methods, as well as a variety of languages.
Faced with this challenge and threat to the company’s strategic plans, Zalando decided
that to be a successful e-commerce company, it needed to rethink its core competencies
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ZALANDO: A DIGITAL FOUNDATION FOR FASHION SUPPLY CHAIN SUCCESS
Zalando built a new shop system – the IT tools that interact directly with the consumer –
in three months. The company also built its own in-house WMS fit-for-purpose to handle
the huge order volumes and catalogue.
Having complete mastery over the design and code of its key tools, Zalando built the
underlying data architecture for ease of access, enabling a data-rich company
culture. Recognizing the potential of data as a resource to drive future growth, in
2015 the company opened its “fashion insights center” in Ireland. The center was
dedicated to research and development to foster Zalando’s capabilities in big data
analytics, using machine learning and artificial intelligence; it employed over 100 data
scientists and engineers. This tech hub was soon complemented by a second one in
Helsinki. David noted:
There is only one caveat, though: some data might only be useful until the
next season starts!
ENDLESS CHOICE
A key pillar of being The Starting Point for Fashion was for Zalando to offer as deep and
broad a selection of apparel as possible, providing what the company termed “endless
choice.” Offering an endless choice to consumers meant not only a wide array of brands
(about 5,800) and SKUs (about 890,000) but also the declination of these SKUs into
sizes and colors, leading to a total number of products of around 2 million. The nature of
the fashion industry meant that the seasonal and yearly turnover of these products was
intense, with more than 2,000 new products added every day.
The implications of the ambitions of endless choice on the supply chain were deep and
structural. Zalando’s supply chain was designed to meet these challenges and leveraged
data to do this efficiently.
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ZALANDO: A DIGITAL FOUNDATION FOR FASHION SUPPLY CHAIN SUCCESS
At its inception, Zalando did not have to confront these difficult questions. As David
explained, there was one fulfillment center outside of Berlin, and it was sufficient for
picking and shipping all of Zalando’s orders. As the company grew and the need for a
second warehouse became apparent, the company simply split the catalogue in two:
men’s apparel in one warehouse, women’s apparel in the other.
As the catalogue and volumes grew, the limitations of this approach became apparent.
Extra capacity in one warehouse was not easily used to help cope with a shortage of
capacity in another, for example. Meanwhile, volume, SKU count and the number of
markets continued to grow.
Armed with this information, Zalando redirected inbound and return volumes and shuttled
inventory between its fulfillment centers every day, fine-tuning which products and how
many of each were available in each location. This task – called inventory rebalancing –
was the result of a careful trade-off between the competing costs of transportation,
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ZALANDO: A DIGITAL FOUNDATION FOR FASHION SUPPLY CHAIN SUCCESS
inventory and service. Zalando tackled even further levels of complexity, including not
just short-term externalities like weather but also the lifecycle of the product, since as
seasonal products move closer to obsolescence, the cost risk of inventory grows.
There’s a reason why people take multiple things into the fitting room. Even
if they see an item they like, they are looking for the right feel and fit.
Customers often ordered different colors or sizes of the same item, with the
understanding that it was acceptable to return those that did not fit well or did not meet
their expectations.
For the supply chain, the consequence was a return volume that was half as large as the
outbound sales volume. To deal with this, Zalando set up 23 returns and refurbishment
centers throughout Europe (see Exhibit 9). In these processing centers, each item of
clothing was inspected and treated as needed to return it into stock, including ironing,
washing and repackaging, if necessary. Zalando succeeded in recovering and returning
to its fulfillment centers about 97% of the returned fashion items. Almost all the rest were
sold through Zalando’s network of 13 outlet stores in Germany.
This steady stream of return flow was an opportunity for the supply chain. The company
integrated all of the information available about current or pending returns into its
inventory rebalancing process. Zalando took into account returns that were being
processed, returns on the way to processing centers, and even products that had been
ordered and would likely be returned but had not even arrived at the customer yet.
Including all of this data in its ML algorithms allowed the company to avoid unnecessary
inventory rebalancing by using the current and anticipated returns flow to fine-tune each
fulfillment center’s inventory level.
SEAMLESS CONVENIENCE
The second pillar of Zalando’s vision was to offer seamless convenience to customers.
This objective had many implications for the customer experience while using the
website or app, but also demanded that the supply chain provide capabilities that
delighted customers.
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ZALANDO: A DIGITAL FOUNDATION FOR FASHION SUPPLY CHAIN SUCCESS
But there were also service and convenience stakes to using data to deploy inventory.
In order to make the customer experience as enjoyable and seamless as possible,
Zalando aimed to provide its customers with a “One Box” experience. This required
delivering all items in an order to the customer in a single parcel, as opposed to several
parcels. Depending on the market, a typical Zalando order basket contained two to eight
items, with the average being around four. The more likely it was that the customer order-
basket items were located in one fulfillment center, the easier it was to deliver everything
in one box.
If Zalando got its inventory deployment wrong, the solution was not to ship two parcels.
The supply chain team would pick the items at each fulfillment center in parallel, then
consolidate them in the nearest fulfillment center. Although this consolidation met the
ambition of the “One Box” experience and was seamless for customers, it prolonged the
delivery lead time for customers and generated additional complexity and cost for Zalando,
raising the stakes of using ML effectively to manage the fulfillment center network.
Delivery promise
Another important element of the seamless experience was the ability to provide reliable
projected order delivery dates – what Zalando called the “delivery promise.”
The complexity of this projection became clear to the company in a moment of crisis. In
the cyber week of 2018, Zalando experienced an all-time daily peak of order inflow, and
the fulfillment centers did not have the capacity to handle the much higher than usual order
inflow, forcing customers to wait much longer for their delivery than promised at the check-
out. The company realized that in order to properly develop the capability to define the
order promise at the time the order was placed, a data-driven approach would be needed.
The first challenge was to understand the instantaneous capacity of each fulfillment center.
Determining this involved not only capturing the time required to pick and ship the order
but also the level of automation used and the available labor at any moment. It was not
difficult to generate the data because of the company’s data culture. The WMS software
was cutting edge and developed in-house. Next, the transportation stage had to be added.
The more granular and up-to-date the data, the stronger the predictions. Masood
Choudry, Zalando’s Senior Vice President of Logistics, explained the high risk of not
having updated data:
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ZALANDO: A DIGITAL FOUNDATION FOR FASHION SUPPLY CHAIN SUCCESS
What the company had not realized at that time were all the challenges
that had come up by no longer operating a single warehouse in Germany,
but operating a fulfillment network across Europe. This materialized very
sharply in the cyber week of 2018, since we had no systems to balance
the volumes across all our sites.
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ZALANDO: A DIGITAL FOUNDATION FOR FASHION SUPPLY CHAIN SUCCESS
With the understanding that returns were a powerful driver of both customer satisfaction
and the efficiency of Zalando’s supply chain at every level, the supply chain team began
delving deeply into the data trying to identify ways to minimize unnecessary returns. The
benefits, however, were not limited to the supply chain. According to David:
With every item shipped and sent back, we can learn more about the
customer’s body, without them sending us a picture or providing us with
measurements … we use this data to provide personalized size
recommendations and to improve the customer experience in the app and
the website. Since this reduces unnecessary returns, it has a positive
impact on the environment and makes us more efficient.
Zalando began to understand that an initiative to use data to minimize returns overlapped
with mining the pillar of the company’s vision of providing a tailored digital experience.
Zalando set up a specific team to build its data-driven approach to minimizing size-
related returns. To lead the effort, Zalando brought in Stacia Carr, who would become
the Vice President of Size and Fit.
Fast fashion is not only made very quickly but also often made very poorly.
So, it adds another level of complexity in terms of being able to tell if an
item is going to fit.
Adding to the challenge was the fact that, in addition to all the uncertainty and variability
around product size, Zalando did not have any information about the other side of the
size/fit equation – the customer’s body size.
The initial approach was to delve into the purchase/return history data available within
the company’s data resources. Using ML algorithms that trained themselves on this data,
5
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/U.S._standard_clothing_size
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ZALANDO: A DIGITAL FOUNDATION FOR FASHION SUPPLY CHAIN SUCCESS
Zalando began to identify patterns in which customers might not find a certain size of a
certain type of garment from a certain brand to be a good fit.
Taking things further, Zalando began using computer vision to analyze marketing images
provided by brands for items that were not yet for sale through Zalando. The ML
algorithms analyzed the image and tried to predict the return patterns by anticipating
whether the garment would have a tight or loose fit for the stated size.
Not only do we have clothing and body variables, but we also have body
image issues. So our recommendations are not about the customer, they
focus on the garment. We know the merchandise, and we are here to tell
you how the merchandise will work for you.
To craft that message, Stacia employed marketing experts who provided tailored digital
information to consumers about how a particular garment they were looking at tended to
behave in its size identification, framing the information as a perceived personal touch.
The prediction models were now sufficiently sophisticated that the return risk could be
calculated at the item level or customer level. Stacia noted:
There are stylistic choices to consider. Some people prefer a tight fit to a
loose fit. So, some advice is article advice (this item runs big or small) and
if we know a bit more about the customer, the advice will consider their
personal return probability.
Taking it a step further, Zalando asked its customers for feedback on the fit of recent
purchases in order to enhance the database. The company found that customers who
replied to these queries came back more often, spent more time browsing and had higher
customer lifetime values, suggesting that the data collection used to minimize returns
was in itself perceived as a tailored experience.
6
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ZALANDO: A DIGITAL FOUNDATION FOR FASHION SUPPLY CHAIN SUCCESS
This orientation had several implications for Zalando’s supply chain in the future. A
prominent element of Zalando’s sustainability commitment was to reduce its own (scope
1 and 2) carbon footprint by 80% between 2017 and 2025. In addition, to tackle scope 3
emissions across the supply chain, as part of the Science Based Targets initiative
(SBTi), 7 the company used its leading market position to encourage its suppliers to adopt
SBTi targets, with a target of 90% of suppliers by 2025. This included apparel
manufacturers and logistics providers such as transporters.
Zalando’s focus on minimizing returns and optimizing inventory and transportation also
played an important role in deploying do.MORE. David noted:
If you can have people make better choices with the sizes they buy, then
the whole supply chain becomes much more efficient. You have much
lower return rates, you ship far less out, get far less back, and order less
inventory in the first place. It makes us more sustainable.
The balance was delicate. The company focused primarily on measures that helped
create better outcomes for all stakeholders. As David pointed out:
Free returns have been part of Zalando since the beginning. For us, it is a
key attribute of the brand to offer free returns, but we definitely want to
avoid unnecessary returns that do not make sense for the customer,
Zalando, or the environment. Size-related returns are a great example of
that. Customers want clothes that fit and we want to provide them.
By 2021, Zalando had successfully reduced its scope 1 and 2 emissions by 64%
compared to 2017 and used offsets to fully compensate for any remaining emissions
including those arising from deliveries and returns, addressing its supply chain footprint.
Furthermore it continued to make significant investments to move the fashion industry
from a linear to a more circular model of design and manufacturing, use and reuse, and
collection and recycling with significant implications across the end-to-end supply chain.
As successfully applied in its own supply chain before, Zalando again set out to leverage
data and technology to solve this enormous challenge.
7
https://sciencebasedtargets.org/blog/how-can-companies-address-their-scope-3-greenhouse-
gas-emissions
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Source: © 2021 European E-commerce Report. Amsterdam University of Applied Sciences &
Ecommerce Europe https://ecommerce-europe.eu/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/2021-European-
E-commerce-Report-LIGHT-VERSION.pdf
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Exhibit 3: Annual sales of Top 10 online fashion retailers in 2020 (US$ billion)
10 9.1
9
Annual sales (US$ billion)
8
7
6 5.6 5.4
5
4 3.56 3.5 3.5
3 2.14
2 1.5 1.4 1.1
1
0
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