HANDMADE SPA

NATURAL TREATMENTS TO REVIVE AND RESTORE

JULIETTE GOGGIN AND ABI RIGHTON

CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION

BEFORE YOU BEGIN

PREPARING YOUR INGREDIENTS

In the Home
In the Garden
Essential Oils

PREPARING YOUR SPA

Equipment
Spa Tools
pH
Storage and Safety

PRODUCT RECIPES
REFRESHING, REVITALIZING, UPLIFTING
Revitalizing Facial Cleansing Grains
Micellar Cleansing Water
Melissa and Bergamot Facial Spritz
Cooling Cucumber, Matcha and Lime Face Mask
Mint Lip Scrub
Uplifting Grapefruit and Orange Body Wash
Refreshing Citrus Fragrance

WARMING, RELAXING, SOOTHING

Sauna Face Mask with Frankincense and Cypress
Hot Cloth Facial Cleansers
Detoxifying Seaweed Cleansing Water
Warming, Sensual Body Massage Oil
Ginger, Eucalyptus and Cinnamon Muscle Balm
Hot Oil Hair Treatment Mask
Hot or Cold Soothing Wheat Pack
Scented Candles

REGENERATING, BALANCING
Facial Steam with Floating Flowers
Dispersing Bath Oil with Dried Flowers and Herbs
Facial Serum with Pomegranate and Geranium
Regenerating Rose Facial Oil
Balancing Body Lotion
Floating Candles

CALMING, SLEEP-INDUCING, RESTFUL

Calming Facial Cleansing Balm
Rich, Restful Night Cream Mask
Relaxing Herbal Body Cream
Indulgent Moisturizing Bath Soak with Lavender
Relaxing and Calming Reed Diffuser
Sleepy Herbal Tea Infusion
Lavender and Hop Pillow Mist

DETOXIFYING, CLEANSING
Peeling Seaweed Face Mask
Ginger, Lemongrass and Lime Loofah Soap
Detoxifying Fizzing Seaweed Bath Tablets
Shower Mud with Juniper, Cypress and Fennel
Creamy Foot Scrub with Peppermint and Pumice
Herbal Detox Tea
Purifying Incense Powder and Cones

GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS
DIRECTORY OF SUPPLIERS
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Introduction
‘We want to encourage you to recreate the spa experience at home,
using recipes you have made yourself and tailored to your own
particular needs’

There’s nothing better than the feeling of calm, relaxation and

rejuvenation brought on by a luxurious, therapeutic spa session.
From a simple pedicure, facial or massage at a high-street salon, to
a state-of-the-art treatment featuring the latest therapies at a five-
star spa hotel – all use a wide variety of products, ingredients and
applications, and are designed to promote a feeling of health and
well-being.

THE HISTORY OF THE SPA

Spa therapies are not a new trend and, like the use of essential oils
and fragrance, can be traced back centuries.
The Ancient Greeks were one of the first documented, around
500BC, as using water from natural springs for therapeutic purposes,
a practice embellished by the Romans with the creation of their
incredibly ornate thermal baths at the sites of mineral and thermal
springs. These were valued so highly that they were eventually built
across the Roman Empire. As a result, thermal baths came to
feature in the cultures of many countries around the world, and as
the bathhouses developed, so too did the rituals surrounding them,
to include massage and treatments based around steam and heat.
These treatments were also enhanced by the use of essential oils
and herbal teas.
In the Ottoman Empire, the hammam, or Turkish bath, took their
inspiration from Ancient Rome. These bathhouses were open to
everyone and served as a communal meeting place. A vigorous
exfoliating scrub combined with steam was followed with a body
wash and massage.
 Some of these spas still exist today. In Istanbul and Marrakesh,
stunning, ornate buildings have survived, and provide the authentic
Turkish bath experience for both locals and tourists alike.
In Nordic countries, the spa tradition was based on extremes of
hot and cold to boost the circulation. A sauna, featuring intense heat
and steam, relaxed the body. Then a scrub with honey and sea salt
was followed by lightly beating the skin with birch and eucalyptus
twigs, and finally a dip in a plunge pool of cold water really kick-
started the circulation, resulting in a sensation of exhilaration and
well-being.
The spas of today are luxurious and bespoke, as increasingly
people seek out experiences to help them relax, restore and
rebalance the mind and body. Yet many of the old traditions
continue, with the use of exfoliating, steam and massage treatments
found in even the most ultra-modern, luxury spas, indicating that the
ideas and influences of the past are still going strong.
THE HOME SPA
In Handmade Spa we want to encourage you to recreate the spa
experience at home, using recipes you have made yourself and
tailored to your own particular needs, so you can enjoy that feeling of
well-being, relaxation and luxury as often and as easily as you wish.
Our passion is to create natural recipes and therapies using
simple, easy-to-obtain ingredients, which can be replicated at home.
In this book we focus on treatments and associated recipes that
reflect this ethos, harnessing the benefits of plants from the garden
and herbs from the kitchen, combined with simple techniques to
enable you to create your own products – both fresh ones to try
straight away, and those you can store for future use to prolong that
spa experience and enjoy additional benefits.
We have arranged the recipes in the book into chapters based on
the differing properties of the scents and oils used: whether you want
to be energized, comforted and warmed, regenerated and balanced,
relaxed or detoxed, there is a recipe for you. You will find products
for use on the body, face and hair, including cleansers, masks,
scrubs, soaps, bath tablets, face and body creams, and a refreshing
eau de toilette, as well as more therapeutic products, such as
candles, herbal teas, reed diffusers and pillow mists, to create a truly
holistic experience.
We also focus on key techniques, giving you the inside knowledge
on how to create a salon-style hot cloth cleanser, and detailed
instructions on how to make a variety of eye-catching candles and
mood-enhancing incense products. A section on massage tips will
also help you to work on soothing some of those aching muscles.
And we haven’t forgotten the importance of preparing your
surroundings so that your spa experience is maximized. We have
provided numerous tips on how to set the desired atmosphere,
discussing the importance of soft lighting, the right fluffy towels and
the benefits of many other helpful accessories. Whether you want to
be revived and energized or sent off to a blissful sleep, you can
create the environment, recipes and associated scents to do so.
FRAGRANCE FAMILIES
Fragrance is a bit of a mysterious world – difficult to explore, to
discover, and to find your own style. A basic understanding of the
way in which fragrances are grouped into families will help you
navigate your way around this fascinating world and hopefully make
choosing what you want, or what you need, just a little easier.
The idea of using fragrances and perfumery has been around for
thousands of years, from the earliest examples of aromatic plants,
woods and tree resins such as frankincense and myrrh being burned
over fire to cleanse and scent the air, to the Ancient Egyptians’ use
of scented oils and balms for burial purposes. Over time, the use of
oils, herbs and fragrant plants became more widespread for
therapeutic purposes, and also in perfumes for the body and to scent
the home, much as we do today through the use of candles and reed
diffusers.
‘Modern’ perfumery began in Italy and France, where the warm
climate suited the growing of scented, aromatic plants such as rose,
violet, lavender and jasmine. The French town of Grasse became
the home of high-quality natural aromatic ingredients and also
developed many of the techniques that led to the creation of
perfumery as we know it today, including the introduction of new,
synthetic ingredients which vastly increased the perfumer’s creative
options. Most famous of all was the creation of the iconic Chanel No
5 in 1921, which used an accidental overdose of chemicals called
aldehydes to give a revolutionary and exciting top note to floral
fragrances.
As the fragrance business became established, it was decided to
categorize perfumes into families, and broadly speaking this has
continued, as it enables experts to describe, reference and organize
fragrances. Of course, fine fragrance, as eau de toilettes and
perfumes are generally known, involves the blending of natural
essential oils as well as synthetic ingredients to enable the perfumer
to create perfumes around complex fragrance notes that do not exist
as natural ingredients. It also allows the creator to make much
cheaper fragrances than if they used entirely natural ingredients.
There are two means of cataloguing fragrance: the genealogy
chart or the fragrance wheel. The best known and probably the
easiest to follow is the Haarmann and Reimer Genealogy Chart. No
longer in print, it is possible to find this online, and it categorizes
perfumes into three distinct groups.
 PERFUME FAMILIES
FLORAL: Green, Fruity, Fresh, Floral and Aldehydic
This group includes straight florals and floral aldehydic perfumes such as Chanel No 5, as
well as fruity florals.
ORIENTAL: Sweet, Ambery and Spicy
There are many famous oriental fragrances, from Shalimar by Guerlain in 1925, to
Opium in the 70s.
CHYPRE: Aromatic, Woody, Fresh and Green
A chypre perfume is the most difficult to describe. Oakmoss, patchouli and woods such
as sandalwood, combined with top notes of citrus and green elements give a complex
and long-lasting aroma. The most famous chypre example is the original Chypre from
Coty in 1917.

ESSENTIAL OILS
We use entirely natural essential oils to create the scents in our spa
treatments. This type of blending of essential oils owes more to the
field of aromatherapy, where the natural essential oils are used for
their therapeutic qualities as much as their scent. Such products are
simpler than fine fragrances, but can be similarly categorized in
terms of scent, and the associated therapeutic and health benefits.

Refreshing, Revitalizing, Uplifting

Citrus oils are known for their refreshing, cleansing and revitalizing
qualities. These are great to use in products to wake you up and
refresh you when you’re hot and tired. Examples include sweet
orange, grapefruit, lime, lemon, bergamot and mandarin, which
relate to some of the fragrances found in the Green, Fresh and Fruity
family. We have also added herbal oils such as mint, marjoram and
basil, as well as fresh floral notes from melissa and neroli.

Warming, Relaxing, Soothing

This section is all about comforting and soothing the body and mind,
and we have used a combination of essential oils predominantly
from the Woody and Floral families. The rich, spicy and woody
essences of ginger, cedarwood, cinnamon, frankincense and
sandalwood are warming to the skin, and have long-lasting qualities
when used in home fragrance products such as candles. Other
beneficial oils that could be used are from herbs such as lavender,
thyme, clary sage and chamomile, together with floral oils such as
ylang ylang, geranium and jasmine.

Regenerating, Balancing
This chapter is primarily based around flowers and uses their
regenerating and balancing qualities to produce restorative
treatments. They relate most directly to the Floral families, with some
Fruity notes. As many floral essential oils are extremely rare and
expensive, the selection is smaller than the other chapters, and key
oils include rose, ylang, palmarosa, neroli, jasmine and geranium, as
well as sweet orange and frankincense to give depth.

Calming, Restful, Sleep-Inducing

This section relates mostly to Floral and Woody families. We use
herbs such as lavender, valerian and chamomile, which are well
known for their relaxing and sleep-inducing qualities, as well as
hops. Juniper, marjoram and clary sage are also represented, along
with sandalwood and rose.

Detoxifying, Cleansing
The recipes here use fresh elements from citrus ingredients for their
cleansing properties, as well as seaweed, roots and herbs known for
their detoxifying properties. These are associated with the Green,
Fresh and Fruity family, and key oils include lemongrass, lemon
balm, peppermint, fennel, juniper, ginger and cedarwood.
Before You Begin
Preparing Your Ingredients
FINDING THE INGREDIENTS FOR
YOUR SPA PRODUCTS IS EASIER
THAN YOU MIGHT THINK. TAKE
INSPIRATION FROM THE
FLOWERS AND HERBS IN YOUR
GARDEN, OR THE FRUIT AND
VEGETABLES IN THE
SUPERMARKET. PERHAPS YOU
ALREADY USE ESSENTIAL OILS,
OR SEE THEM IN YOUR LOCAL
HEALTH-FOOD STORE.
EVERYDAY THINGS WILL INSPIRE
YOU TO GET CREATIVE, AND
BEFORE YOU KNOW IT, YOU WILL BE READY TO TRY YOUR FIRST
RECIPE.
In the Home
SEARCH YOUR CUPBOARDS
You will be surprised just how many of the items needed for the
recipes in this book can already be found in your own home. A quick
search through your kitchen and bathroom cupboards may reveal a
few gems which can be put to an alternative use in your home spa.

• Cellulose gum: Commonly used for sugar work in cake

decorating, this ingredient is excellent as a thickener in body
washes and bath soaks. It also serves as a binder in our Incense
Cones.
• Citric acid: Used in jam-making as a preservative, citric acid also
has cleaning properties so it is a useful kitchen cupboard item.
Citric acid is a key ingredient in our Detoxifying Fizzing Seaweed
Bath Tablets, enabling the product to fizz when combined with
sodium bicarbonate and water.
• Fruits and vegetables: Fruits and vegetables, such as cucumber
and root ginger, are used in several of our recipes.
• Gelatine: We use a vegetarian and vegan gelatine in our recipes. If
you also prefer to use non-animal products, be sure to check the
manufacturer’s ingredient list carefully. Gelatine is available as a
clear sheet or as a powder version, which we use for our Cooling
Cucumber, Matcha and Lime Face Mask.
• Glycerine: This slightly syrupy liquid is frequently used as a
cosmetic ingredient due to its ability to hold moisture to the skin.
Beneficial herbs, roots, flowers and even seaweed can be steeped
in a preserved glycerine and water mix to provide a range of
naturally active ingredients for adding to creams and lotions.
• Grains: Rice and pearl barley are relatively inexpensive kitchen
cupboard staples, and both form the filler for our Hot or Cold
Soothing Wheat Pack.
• Herbal teas: Green tea, either in leaf teabag or powder form, can
be used as the basis of a water phase in some of the recipes, such
as the Hot Cloth Facial Cleansers and Green Tea Eye Pads.
• Oils: Olive oil, sunflower oil and
rice bran oil can be found in
most kitchens, and are cheap
and versatile ingredients which
can be used as a base oil for
massage, or as an emollient in
creams and lotions.
• Porridge oats: This breakfast
staple is also known for its skin-
soothing properties, and we
use it in our Shower Mud with
Juniper, Cypress and Fennel.
• Sea salt: Sea salt contains a
high level of naturally occurring
minerals and is both detoxifying and exfoliating to the skin; it can be
added to baths or used in body and hand scrubs. In contrast,
refined salt loses many of these trace elements in processing.
Epsom salts differ from sea salt in that they are a pure compound
of magnesium and sulphate, but they also have numerous health
and skincare benefits, and we use them in our Sauna Face Mask
with Frankincense and Cypress.
• Spices: Some well-known spices such as cinnamon and star anise
are useful for preparing herbal teas.
• Stevia: This natural sugar substitute is used as an exfoliant in our
Mint Lip Scrub, and also for its sweet flavour.
• Unrefined coconut oil: This ingredient has become very popular
and much more widely available since its inclusion in many
contemporary food recipes, and the discovery of its reputed health
benefits. We like to use it in lip and foot scrubs as well as balms.
• Witch hazel: Traditionally used for treating insect bites, stings and
minor irritations, witch hazel is a staple of the bathroom cupboard.
It has so many uses in cosmetics due to its astringent properties,
hence its inclusion in facial toners and cooling foot sprays. It also
helps our Detoxifying Fizzing Seaweed Bath Tablets to stick
together.
• Xanthan gum: A natural food thickening additive derived from corn
sugar, which is often used in gluten-free recipes. We use xanthan
gum to thicken and stabilize cosmetic creams and lotions.
Premixing it with glycerine makes it easier to disperse in water.

USE THE INTERNET

It is almost impossible to imagine writing a specialist book such as
Handmade Spa without the use of the internet. The ability to order
products at the click of a mouse from the comfort of your home
enables you to get started quickly, and to source some of the more
specialist ingredients you may not already own.
For those slightly trickier ingredients you can’t find in your home
cupboards, you might be lucky enough to have a local ethnic grocer
or health-food shop where you can source some of the floral waters
and essential oils that we recommend, but you will also require some
materials that are only available via online suppliers. Primarily, the
internet will provide the more specialized items on your shopping list:
preservatives, emulsifiers, oils and butters. They will also have a
wider selection of essential oils than the health-food stores, but
always check the pricing as regular deals on the high street can
mean that they are cheaper on the more common items. Online sites
are also the best place to search for containers for all the products
you might wish to make, from jars for creams and scrubs, to bottles
for lotions, shampoos and washes, as well as very small bottles, jars
and pots for facial cleansers, serums and eye creams.
In recent years the rise in small-scale cosmetic and skincare
companies has encouraged the growth of online suppliers of the very
ingredients and equipment that those start-up companies require.
This has also been a great help for the amateur maker. Eager to
satisfy both markets, these companies provide a wide array of
materials and equipment, as well as packaging. Some also offer
tuition in the form of courses and classes and provide a few basic
recipes for the beginner.
Like all things online, it is easy to get carried away, so do ensure
that you check exactly what you need before ordering. The range is
vast and it is easy to be tempted by a lovely sounding name without
having a clear idea of what you might do with it. The likelihood is that
after a few months it will still be waiting for that special project. You
will also find that raw material ingredients are cheaper in bulk
amounts, but be aware that they do have a shelf life, and most
internet companies have an additional charge for postage which is
generally based on weight, so it is sensible to buy only what you
think you need for the recipes you are planning now.
The internet is also a way of finding other like-minded people with
whom you can exchange ideas. Some of the social media sites such
as Facebook and Instagram have groups you can join, giving the
opportunity to swap ideas, air experiences and problems with both
amateurs and professionals, and maybe find some new friends at
the same time.
See the Directory of Suppliers for a detailed list of online suppliers
of a wide range of products used throughout the book. Details are
given for a number of suppliers worldwide, and many offer both local
and international shipping options. Hopefully you will find what you
are looking for!
In the Garden
Many of us have discovered the joy of growing our own plants and
flowers in gardens, courtyards, patios or window boxes. It is
surprising what can be achieved with a bit of planning in even the
smallest of spaces.
You may have thought about growing vegetables or some herbs
for cooking, but we would love to encourage you to think about
adding a few more plants for use in cosmetic recipes to enhance
your home spa experience. The opportunity to pick your own herbs
and flowers will inspire and enrich your recipes with the freshest and
most potent of ingredients, grown in your own back garden and at
your fingertips whenever you need them.

BENEFICIAL HERBS
A selection of herbs such as lemon balm, sage, mint, marjoram,
camomile, lavender, fennel, pelargonium (also known as rose
geranium) and thyme are used in many of the recipes. Fresh herbs
can be used in herbal teas and facial steams, but for wheat packs,
incense, bath oils, powders and herb pillows, dried herbs are
required. Simply place your fresh herbs in an airing cupboard on a
paper-lined tray and they will dry within a few days. Keep them in
airtight containers in a cool, dry place until required.

BENEFICIAL FLOWERS
As well as herbs, try growing flowers such as healing calendula, St
John’s wort and achillea, immune-boosting echinacea, fragrant roses
(flowers and rose hips) for cosmetics and teas, elderflowers for
creams and lotions, hops to aid sleep, and violas and daisies for
soothing balms.
Even unpopular weeds such as nettles can be useful for hair
products. Or if you only have a windowsill, why not cultivate an aloe
plant which will give you an instant cooling gel for treating sunburn
and an all-purpose soothing skincare ingredient.
Only use flowers in perfect condition and fully open; avoid
damaged petals or any that are imperfect in colour or shape. Also
avoid any flowers or plants that are potential irritants or poisonous.

USING FLOWERS AND HERBS IN THE RECIPES

FOR THE DISPERSING BATH OIL (shown here) Lavender, oregano, marjoram,
rosemary, roses, calendula or late-flowering daisy-headed flowers such as echinacea and
achillea are ideal for use in this oil.
FOR THE FACIAL STEAM WITH FLOWERS (shown here) A facial steam is a great way
to benefit from the power of soothing and healing plants. Try lavender, camomile, rose
and calendula for their soothing and calming properties, or fennel, juniper, sage and
thyme for problem skin.
FOR THE PURIFYING INCENSE POWDER (shown here) For powder incense recipes
you can add botanical ingredients to the mix of wood powders and resins which form
the base. Try dried pelargonium leaves, sage, thyme or rosemary, dried pine needles,
cistus and marjoram as well as lavender flowers.
FOR THE SLEEPY HERBAL AND DETOX TEAS (shown here and here) Rose petals,
peppermint and spearmint leaves can be used fresh or dried in teas and infusions. Lime
flowers from the linden tree can also be added if you are fortunate enough to have this
majestic tree in your garden.
FOR THE CAMOMILE EYE PADS (shown here) As well as using dried camomile tea,
you could use fresh camomile flowers which have a stronger and much fresher aroma
than dried flowers.
Essential Oils
Essential oils are volatile
aromatic compounds extracted
from fruits, flowers, leaves,
woods and roots. They have a
long history of use in
aromatherapy, traditional
medicines and cosmetic
products, and have extraordinary
powers which can be harnessed
to give both a delightful and
evocative scent as well as
specific beneficial properties.
They are not to be confused
with the natural vegetal oils, such
as sweet almond or sunflower
oil, which are usually cold-
pressed from the kernel/nut or
seed of the plant. Vegetal oils
are not aromatic and only have a bland, mildly fatty scent, but their
varying fatty acid profiles offer different therapeutic skincare benefits,
including emollient and moisturizing properties.
Essential oils are obtained by one of three methods:

Steam Distillation
The most common method is steam distillation, in which the
essential oil is obtained by infusing the plant material with steam.
The high temperature releases the oils from the plant material, which
are carried through with the steam to a condenser where the
essential oil separates on to the surface of the water. Useful bi-
products of this method are the flower water condensates such as
rose, lavender and orangeflower, which we use extensively in our
recipes. They contain the water-soluble aromatic fractions of the
plant material and, although very much weaker than the
corresponding essential oil, they still impart a delightful and
characteristic scent when used to replace plain water in recipes.
They are also excellent toners in their own right.

Solvent Extraction
The most expensive flower oils, such as rose and jasmine absolute,
are obtained via solvent extraction, where the cut flowers are mixed
with a solvent to ‘dissolve’ the essential oil from the plant, as well as
the waxes present. This will firstly provide a ‘concrete’ or solid from
which the absolute oil is obtained. The resulting oil, or absolute yield,
is very low for these precious oils, for example 100kg (220lb) of rose
petals can produce as little as 500ml (17fl oz) of essential oil. It’s no
surprise, therefore, that some oils can cost thousands of pounds per
litre. Hence you will often find oils such as rose, jasmine and even
chamomile sold as dilutions in very small bottles, typically 5–10 per
cent in a carrier oil. It is important to check what dosage of oil you
are buying, although the price will be a good indication.

Expression
Citrus oils are usually extracted via expression, which involves
crushing the fruit to obtain the oil from the outer rind. The whole fruit
can be used and the oil separated, or the peel can be used on its
own. Oils produced via expression include sweet orange, grapefruit
and lemon.

USING ESSENTIAL OILS

In Handmade Spa we have used essential oils both for their scent
and their therapeutic qualities, and each chapter is based on a
theme which relates very closely to the properties of the essential
oils used. There are revitalizing citrus and herbal oils to refresh and
uplift; warming and relaxing woody and spicy oils to comfort and
soothe; balancing and regenerating floral oils such as ylang ylang,
neroli and geranium; relaxing, sleep-promoting traditional herbal oils
from lavender and hops; and detoxifying fennel and ginger and fresh,
cleansing citrus and mint oils.
Essential oils are expensive, but are used in small quantities so a
little goes a long way. Some general rules on dosage are that facial
skincare products should contain no more than 0.5 per cent of
essential oils. In leave-on body products, such as body lotions and
creams, 1 per cent is generally sufficient, and in wash-off products
such as body washes, bath essences and soaks, between 1 and 3
per cent is normal, depending on the strength of the individual oils.
The oils can last for a few years if they are well looked after. Do
remember that these oils are delicate and can be adversely affected
by external conditions, therefore they should be stored in amber
glass bottles with a minimal ‘head space’ (air above the oil) and with
tightly fitting lids to protect from light and oxidation. Store in cool
temperatures – 8–20°C (46–68°F) is fine – to maximize shelf life.

ESSENTIAL OIL SAFETY

Essential oils are powerful ingredients and should be used with care. They should never be
used directly on the skin as they can cause an allergic reaction in some people. They should
also never be used in products for the eyes. Certain essential oils are contra-indicated for use
in pregnancy, or for those with certain medical conditions, so they should be avoided in these
cases.
Preparing Your Spa
CREATING THE RECIPES IN THE
BOOK REQUIRES VERY LITTLE IN
THE WAY OF SPECIALIST ITEMS,
AND MOST KITCHENS WILL
HAVE ENOUGH OF THE BASICS
TO GET YOU STARTED. YOU MAY
NEED TO STOCK UP ON A FEW
SPA TOOLS TO ALLOW YOU TO
FULLY ENJOY THE TREATMENTS
YOU MAKE. NATURAL
INGREDIENTS REQUIRE CAREFUL
PREPARATION AND STORAGE,
SO DO FOLLOW OUR
GUIDELINES CAREFULLY WHEN WORKING WITH THEM.
Equipment
Many of the cosmetic preparations in Handmade Spa resemble
cookery recipes, so you will not be surprised to discover that most
kitchens contain the tools required to make them. We have divided
the equipment list into Basic and Specialist sections, so you can try
out a few of the easier recipes without having to buy any extra
equipment.
It is good practice to have all of your equipment to hand before
you begin. It is helpful to have a few metal teaspoons available when
stirring and spooning ingredients, as you will be surprised how many
you use. It can also be useful to have more than one heatproof jug to
hand for the recipes that require adding multiple ingredients at
different stages, or a selection of small glass bowls and jugs for
measuring the ingredients in advance. Accurate measuring is
essential, and this requires a set of digital scales; however, as most
domestic kitchen scales do not measure less than 1 or 2 grams, very
small measuring spoons are also advisable.
Recipes that require heating will need a gas or electric hob
(stove). Some materials need to be ‘cooked’ prior to use, and so an
oven and a baking tray (cookie sheet) are required. Timing is
important, so a kitchen timer or stopwatch on a mobile (cell) phone
will help.
For the less straightforward recipes some additional equipment is
required, although many kitchens will also have most of these items
already. A coffee grinder, Nutribullet or smoothie maker is useful for
chopping fresh herbs and dried materials into the small-sized
particles needed. A stick blender is also required for many of the
creams, serums and lotions, as well as some of the scrubs. A pestle
and mortar is useful for grinding tablets.
A very small 50ml (11/2fl oz) measuring glass is helpful when
mixing powders into liquids, such as xanthan gum and cellulose
gum. The handle end of a metal teaspoon is the best way to mix very
small quantities such as these. Plastic or metal funnels make
dispensing liquids easier and are used with filter papers for filtering
some liquids. And where stronger liquid ingredients such as
essential oils do not have a dropper top, a plastic pipette can be
used as a dispenser. This is also useful for working with Sucragel.
A large glass or ceramic bowl can be helpful to use as a water
bath to cool down liquids quickly prior to adding the final ingredients.
The bowl should be half-filled with very cold or iced water to quickly
reduce the temperature of the liquid in the heatproof jug or bowl
placed inside it. A plastic washing-up bowl would also be suitable.
Candle-making also requires its own, more specialist equipment
in the form of moulds for floating candles (scented candles can be
made in drinking glasses or other similar vessels), a metal pourer for
wax and a bain marie.
Finally, jars, bottles and other containers with correctly fitting lids
are essential for storing finished recipes.

BASIC EQUIPMENT
Baking tray (cookie sheet) • Chopping board • Digital scales • Glass beakers • Glass
bowls • Grater • Heatproof jugs • Jars with lids • Kitchen timer/stopwatch • Knives •
Scissors • Sieve • Small measuring spoons • Stainless steel spoons: teaspoons,
tablespoons, and a long-handled sundae spoon is very useful for stirring in large
heatproof jugs • Stainless steel saucepans • Teapot and strainer

SPECIALIST EQUIPMENT
Bain marie (ideally two, for heating ingredients and candle-making) • Candle and soap
moulds • Coffee grinder • Coffee filter paper • Glass/plastic bottles with a variety of
caps: screw cap, pump dispenser, spray cap • Glass or plastic funnels • Glass rod (or flat-
bladed knife) • Kitchen blender • Large jug • Large glass or ceramic bowl • Metal
pourer for candle wax • Pestle and mortar • pH strips • Plastic box and lid for incense
drying • Plastic pipette • Spatula • Stick blender • Thermometer • Tweezers • Vinyl
gloves • 50ml (11/2fl oz) measuring glass
Spa Tools
A spa experience is something to treasure and remember; it’s
designed to linger in the memory and to entice you back when the
pressures of everyday life seem just that bit too much.

SPA DESIGN
The design of the most prestigious spas is a highly specialized task,
involving considerable experience and expense to create that very
special ambience associated with a five-star day out. Recreating this
in your own home requires a certain attention to detail, borrowing
ideas from the experts to replicate the atmosphere of luxury, serenity
and comfort.

Preparation and Planning

Spa treatments are associated with certain key tools, which might
seem unimportant but which do make a difference: the most
luxurious of deep-pile towels and soft, comforting waffle slippers
really do enhance the treatments on offer and provide a sense of
well-being that will seal the experience in your memory long after the
day has passed. With some preparation and planning, you can
ensure that your home spa is equipped with the correct tools and
accessories to complement the wonderful natural recipes you have
spent time creating.

SPA ACCESSORIES
In addition to the basic equipment needed for making the recipes
themselves, you will need some or all of the following. You will
almost certainly have many of them at home already, so it shouldn’t
be too tricky or expensive a task to collect them all together.

• Wooden spatulas for the application of muds and masks

• Deep-pile towels for body wraps and for the hair
• Mitts for body exfoliation or tanning application
• Face cloths for hot cloth facial cleansing and for removing face
and body masks
• Flat, round cellulose sponges for removing face masks
• Cotton wool pads for cleansing
• Pumice stones for exfoliating
• Bath lily or natural sponges
• Body brushes to aid circulation and for anti-cellulite treatments
• Loofah for exfoliating
• Orange sticks and other manicure tools, such as nail brush,
scissors, nail buffing tool, nail file
• Massage roller for body massage
• Hairbands/hair clips to be used for facials and face masks
• Pillows for supporting the body during massage and for general
relaxation
• Comfortable waffle slippers
• Blankets for relaxation and for keeping the body warm and relaxed
during treatments
• Eye mask for relaxation
• Candles or essential oil burners
• Suitable music can aid relaxation during treatments

It is a good idea to have a glass of water available after a treatment,

as it will help to flush toxins from the body.

NATURAL SEA SPONGES

A natural sea sponge is a beautiful object with many unique properties, and ideal for
your home spa. It can be used to gently exfoliate, to cleanse both body and face, to
remove muds and masks, and even in massage techniques. Whether you’re planning a
revitalizing citrus shower scrub or a luxurious, relaxing soak in bath oil, make sure you
have a natural sponge to hand for maximum skin-conditioning benefit. Natural sponges
are easy to clean and, with care, will last much longer than synthetic, more abrasive
sponges, making them a perfect, cost-effective spa accessory for the home.
pH
Cosmetic products are designed to work in harmony with the natural
balance of the skin, which helps to avoid undesirable skin irritations
and allergic reactions. When preparing products for your home spa,
it is important to create products which are gentle on the skin, and
the pH is an indicator of this.
The pH of any substance is the measure of its acid or alkaline
content and is ranked from 0 to 14, with pH 7, the natural acidity of
water, being neutral. The further below 7 any value is, the more
acidic it is, and the higher above 7 the more alkaline. The pH of
healthy skin is 5.5, therefore most cosmetic products are formulated
to be as close to this as possible, in order to feel comfortable and
harmonious when in use.
Preservatives are effective only within specific pH bands, and it is
therefore very important when using any preservative in a recipe to
check its suitability and to use it within the band for which it is
intended. This information should be provided with the product
material when it is purchased, but if you are in any doubt at all, do
double check with the supplier.
Any product that contains water requires a preservative if it is to
be stored and not used immediately, so choosing the correct
preservative is important. We indicate in each recipe if a preservative
is required, so it is important to use one if we have listed it. The
recipes in this book are chosen and tested to work with grapefruit
seed extract, a natural preservative effective over a broad pH range,
although it is most effective when used in a product with a pH of
below 7.

ALTERING THE PH OF A PRODUCT

The recipes in this book are designed to work within the required pH range that is
suitable for the product and the preservative listed. However, should you need to reduce
a pH, it can be done by the addition of a few drops of lactic, or citric acid solution. Add
the solution gradually, stirring into the product to combine, and recheck the pH each
time you do this. For wash products using Plantapon LGC, a natural foaming ingredient,
and Lamesoft PO65, which is added for its moisturizing benefits, lowering the pH in this
 way to about 5.5 can help to increase the thickness and give a more professional edge to
the products.

MEASURING PH
There are several types of pH strip available online (see Directory of
Suppliers). Having tried out a few different types we recommend the
pH Indicator (0–14) Strips from Nova Health, or Universal pH Test
Strips (0–14) from Simplex Health, both of which are easy to use and
have clear instructions on the box.
Each strip is marked in sections with four coloured bands at one
end. Each strip is identical and has the same coloured bands. The
product box contains a picture of how the strips will appear once
they have been used, and determining the final pH is a simple matter
of matching the altered coloured strips with the coloured bands on
the box and checking the pH number it corresponds to.

Using pH Strips
To test liquids or thin, pourable gels, dip a test strip into the liquid for
around one second, then remove it from the product. Don’t allow the
strip to get too wet or the test squares may peel off. For creams or
thicker lotions, press the strip down on to the surface of the product
for 5 to 10 seconds, then carefully remove the strip from the surface
to reveal the test squares.
Align the test strip with the coloured strips on the box and
compare the two, checking the pH according to the new colours on
the strip. The answer given will be within a small but allowable
margin and is sufficient for home use. For total accuracy, a pH meter
is the answer, but this is expensive and not generally required for
personal use.
Storage and Safety
CARING FOR YOUR INGREDIENTS
• Buy ingredients from trusted sources. Store them in airtight
containers in a cool, dry place away from sunlight, and mark with
the date of purchase.
• Before using the ingredients, check that the appearance and odour
is good. If the smell is ‘off’ or unpleasant, or if in doubt about the
appearance, then discard.
• When handling and measuring out materials it is advisable to wear
disposable gloves, especially when dispensing essential oils and
surfactants. A face mask is advised if handling powders that are
very dusty.
• Using deionized or demineralized water is preferable to using tap
water in a recipe, as tap water contains traces of metal salts that
may cause products to discolour. Always boil water before using to
ensure sterility.
• When weighing materials, and mixing phases and batches, use
only sterilized tools and vessels, and when transferring your
product into containers, make sure the jars/bottles you are using
are sterilized. Fill the containers to full capacity to avoid leaving too
much ‘head space’ (air above the product) that will encourage
oxidation.
• Natural ingredients can contain microbes that could be potentially
harmful or spoil the finished product, so it’s important that the
ingredients used are properly prepared and treated to make them
sufficiently sterile. Materials containing water such as flower waters
and aqueous plant extracts are particularly vulnerable to microbes,
but some materials which appear to be dry, such as flours or clays,
can also contain sufficient moisture to harbour moulds. Carrier oils
and essential oils do not contain water and are unlikely to carry
microbes. The methods prescribed for the recipes in this book have
been developed through trials and micro tests to give a sterile
finished product. It is therefore very important that the methods are
followed, especially where materials and phases require heating.
 Maintaining a minimum temperature of 70°C (158°F) for 30 minutes
is the general rule to kill off most of the microbes, but for water-
based products we have added a preservative to help keep
contamination at bay and extend the product shelf-life. The
ingredient that we have chosen to use to help preservation is
grapefruit seed extract, which is readily available through internet
cosmetic material suppliers. Waterless oil- and wax-based products
such as massage oils and lip balms generally do not need
preservatives to be added, but the addition of vitamin E can help
against rancidity.
• Although many neat essential oils can be potentially irritating or
sensitizing, if handled correctly the risks are much reduced.
Dispense essential oils carefully, avoiding direct skin contact, and
ensure that the area you are working in is ventilated. Take care not
to get any around the eye. If this happens, rinse with plenty of cold
water.

CARING FOR YOUR FINISHED PRODUCTS

• Store your products in a cool, dry place away from sunlight.
Sunlight and heat are the worst for causing rancidity and degrading
products. Mark the container with the date of preparation.
Anhydrous, wax- or oil-based products can last for six months to a
year, providing they are kept dry. Water-based products such as
creams, lotions and toners should keep for three to six months,
providing they are suitably preserved and the sterilizing and heating
techniques are adhered to. Avoid dipping fingers into pots and
leaving products exposed without lids, as microbes can be
introduced.
• ‘Fresh’, unpreserved products should be kept in airtight containers
in the fridge and used within two days.
• Always check your products before using them to make sure that
the smell, colour and appearance is still good.
• Keep a log book containing details of each batch of product that
you make, such as date of preparation and source of each
ingredient. Note phase temperatures achieved and the length of
time the temperature was maintained for. Note any variations that
you may make from the book’s recipes and methods. Check and
record the pH of your water-based products using pH strips. If you
notice differences in batches of the same product, the details in
your log book may point to the reason.
Product Recipes
Refreshing, Revitalizing, Uplifting
REFRESHING AND REVITALIZING TREATMENTS ARE ASSOCIATED
WITH CITRUS ESSENTIAL OILS, AND HERE YOU WILL FIND LEMON,
SWEET ORANGE, GRAPEFRUIT, LIME, BERGAMOT AND MANDARIN,
AS WELL AS HERBS SUCH AS MINT, ROSEMARY AND BASIL.
UPLIFTING FLORAL ELEMENTS COME FROM NEROLI, AN ESSENTIAL
OIL DERIVED FROM ORANGEFLOWER BLOSSOMS, AS WELL AS
MELISSA, ALSO KNOWN AS LEMON BALM.
◁ Revitalizing Facial Cleansing Grains
These cleansing grains contain antioxidant vitamin C and matcha green tea as
well as dried lime powder to help brighten and polish the skin. The addition
of Sucragel helps to disperse the grains while gently cleansing, leaving the skin
feeling amazingly soft and smooth. Mixing the powder with a small amount of
glycerine will add a moisturizing element to the cleansing treatment.

Makes approx. 100g (31/2oz)

INGREDIENTS
40g (11/2oz) green clay
39g (11/2oz) porridge oats
3g (1/2 tsp) lime powder (dried Iranian limes)
5g (1 tsp) matcha green tea powder
1 x 4g vitamin C tablet (1000mg), or the equivalent in powder
8ml (11/2 tsp) Sucragel CF
20 drops lemon essential oil

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
baking tray (cookie sheet)
coffee grinder

SAFE STORAGE
Store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 3 months.
Step 1
Preheat the oven to 100°C (210°F). Place the clay, oats, lime powder and matcha
powder on a baking tray (cookie sheet) and transfer to the oven for 30 minutes.
Remove from the oven and allow to cool.
Step 2
Transfer the powder mix to a bowl. Crush the vitamin C tablet and add to the
powder mix, then blitz the mixture in a coffee grinder until it has a very fine
consistency.
Step 3
Return the powder to the bowl and fold in the Sucragel and the lemon essential oil.
Return the mixture to the coffee grinder and blitz again to ensure the ingredients
are thoroughly mixed.

HOW TO APPLY
Place a small amount of the powder in the palm of one hand and add warm water
to make a paste. Apply to the face and work into the skin with the fingertips. Wash
off with plenty of warm water; a muslin cloth or small cellulose sponge is useful to
help remove all traces of the cleansing grains. Alternatively, leave the cleanser on
the skin for 5 to 10 minutes to act as a mask, before removing as described.
◁ Micellar Cleansing Water
This light, fresh cleansing water removes all traces of make-up effectively and
quickly, leaving your skin clean, refreshed and ready for a facial. It can also be
used as a Hot Cloth Facial Cleanser (see here for instructions); follow this
with a facial spritz to refresh the skin before applying day creams, night
creams or serums. The combination of zesty lemon essential oil and
orangeflower water makes this the perfect summer weather cleansing
solution – and as no added water is required, it’s perfect for use on your
travels.

Makes approx. 100ml (31/2fl oz)

INGREDIENTS
10 drops lemon essential oil
2.5ml (1/2 tsp) Plantacare 818
94ml (3fl oz) orangeflower water
1.5ml (1/3 tsp) glycerine
40 drops grapefruit seed extract

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
heatproof jug
metal saucepan or bain marie
sterilized bottle with cap

SAFE STORAGE
Store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 3 months.

Step 1
To begin, premix the lemon essential oil with the Plantacare 818 in a small dish or
jug and set aside.
Step 2
Measure the orangeflower water and glycerine into a heatproof jug. Place the jug
in a pan of simmering water or bain marie and heat to 80°C (176°F); you will need
to use a thermometer. Maintain this heat for 30 minutes. To avoid excess
evaporation, cover the jug with cling film (plastic wrap).

Step 3
Remove the jug from the heat and add the premix, ensuring it is thoroughly
combined with the water and glycerine. Allow the liquid to cool to 30–40°C (86–
104°F), then add the grapefruit seed extract and stir to mix well. Pour into a
sterilized bottle with cap.

HOW TO APPLY
Simply apply to a cotton wool pad and wipe away make-up and the stresses of the
day.
◁ Melissa and Bergamot Facial Spritz
After a hot cloth cleansing treatment, spritz this cooling citrus toner on to the
face to refresh and revive the skin. Follow with your choice of moisturizer or
facial oil for the ultimate facial treatment.
As an alternative, why not try a rosewater facial spritz to restore and
balance the skin. Follow the instructions in steps 1 and 2 below, using rose
water in place of the melissa water, and geranium essential oil in place of the
bergamot essential oil. All other ingredients remain the same.

Makes approx. 100ml (31/2fl oz)

INGREDIENTS
86ml (3fl oz) melissa water
3ml (1/2 tsp) glycerine
10ml (2 tsp) witch hazel
2 drops bergamot essential oil
40 drops grapefruit seed extract

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
heatproof jug
saucepan
thermometer
bottle with spray pump

SAFE STORAGE
Store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 3 months.

Step 1
Measure the melissa water, glycerine and witch hazel into a heatproof jug. Place
the jug in a pan of simmering water and heat to 70–80°C (158–176°F); you will
need to use a thermometer. Maintain this heat for 30 minutes. To avoid excess
evaporation, cover the jug with cling film (plastic wrap).

Step 2
Remove from the heat and allow to cool to 30–40°C (86–104°F). Add the
bergamot essential oil and the grapefruit seed extract, pour into the bottle, replace
the spray pump and shake to combine.

HOW TO APPLY
Simply spritz on to the face to refresh and revive the skin.
◁Cooling Cucumber, Matcha and Lime Face
Mask
This mask can be made with ingredients that you may already have in your
kitchen, and if you use the matcha powder it will have the most amazing,
bright green colour. It is a truly zingy, refreshing mask, ideal for a hot, sticky
day when its cooling effect can be best appreciated.

Makes approx. 380ml (2/3 pint)

INGREDIENTS
1 green tea bag or 5g (1 tsp) matcha green tea powder (or follow packet instructions)
75g (21/2oz) cucumber
2.5g (1/2 tsp) vegetable gelatine powder, such as Vegeset (or follow packet instructions)
20 drops lime essential oil

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
blender
small saucepan

SAFE STORAGE
This is a fresh recipe so it should ideally be used straight away. It can be stored in the fridge
for up to 2 days, after which it should be discarded.
Step 1
Pour 300ml (1/2 pint) hot (not boiling) water on to the green tea bag or matcha
green tea powder in a mug or jug (follow the packet instructions for the correct
dosage of powder to water). If using the powder, stir to combine – the liquid will be
a bright green colour – then leave to cool slightly. Alternatively, leave the tea bag to
infuse for 10 minutes.
Step 2
Chop slices of cucumber and place in a blender with the green tea liquid. Whizz
until the cucumber is fully blitzed, then leave to cool completely. Check the amount
of liquid and measure out the correct quantity of gelatine powder according to the
packet instructions (typically 1 tsp per 600ml/1 pint). Add the gelatine to the liquid
and stir to combine.
Step 3
Place the mixture in a pan over a low heat, stirring all the time. Once it has
reached boiling point, remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool to around
40°C (104°F). Add the lime essential oil to give a citrus scent: for 300ml (1/2 pint)
use 20 drops (or 10 drops in 150ml/1/4 pint). Pour into a bowl and allow to cool
before placing in the fridge to set.

HOW TO APPLY
Spread the cooling mask over the face and neck and relax while the antioxidant,
anti-ageing green tea and cooling, soothing cucumber get to work. Leave for 5 to
10 minutes before removing with warm water and a muslin cloth.
◁ Mint Lip Scrub
When the weather is wintry, our lips feel the full harsh effect of chilling winds
and temperatures and need a bit of tender loving care to keep them in good
condition. Try this nourishing balm to restore and moisturize parched lips,
while gently exfoliating with grains of stevia – an intensely sweet, natural
alternative to sugar – leaving a smooth finish. The mint also gives the scrub a
lovely taste. This recipe benefits from being made in small amounts and used
quickly, as the stevia powder can soften over time, making the exfoliation less
effective. The recipe is very simple, so it’s easy to whip up another batch
when the previous one is finished.

Makes approx. 40g (11/2oz)

INGREDIENTS
23g (3/4oz) unrefined coconut oil
3g (1/2 tsp) beeswax
10g (2 tsp) shea butter
4g (1 tsp) stevia
4 drops peppermint essential oil

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
heatproof jug
metal saucepan

SAFE STORAGE
Store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 1 month.

Step 1
Weigh the coconut oil, beeswax and shea butter into a heatproof jug. Place the jug
in a pan of boiling water and heat until the beeswax is completely molten.
Step 2
When fully melted, remove the jug from the pan, add the stevia, allow the mix to
cool slightly, then add the peppermint oil. Stir to combine.

Step 3
Pour or spoon the mixture into the containers just as it is beginning to set, to
ensure that the stevia is evenly dispersed and doesn’t sink to the base.

HOW TO APPLY
Apply a small amount to the lips, working in the scrub with the fingertips, or by
pressing the lips together.
◁ Uplifting Grapefruit and Orange Body Wash
A refreshing, uplifting citrus body wash using mild, natural foaming agents
which cleanse and soften the skin, and help bring you to life in the mornings!
The wash can also double up as an exfoliating shower treatment – simply mix
a small amount of exfoliating powder (there are many options to choose
from, but we prefer to use bamboo powder) into the wash in the palm of
the hand and apply to the body, paying particular attention to areas of dry
skin.

Makes approx. 100ml (31/2fl oz)

INGREDIENTS
5ml (1 tsp) glycerine
2g (1/2 tsp) cellulose gum
40ml (23/4 tbsp) Plantapon LGC
5ml (1 tsp) Lamesoft PO65
46ml (3 tbsp) orangeflower water
10 drops grapefruit essential oil
10 drops sweet orange essential oil
40 drops grapefruit seed extract

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
heatproof jug
thermometer
metal saucepan
bottle with cap or lotion pump

SAFE STORAGE
Store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 3 months.
Step 1
Pour the glycerine into a small dish or beaker and add the cellulose gum. Stir to
combine until smooth and lump-free, and set aside.
Step 2
Combine the Plantapon LGC and Lamesoft PO65 in a jug or beaker. Add the
premix (see Step 1) and stir until the mixture is uniform.
Step 3
Pour the orangeflower water into a heatproof jug. Place the jug in a pan of
simmering water and heat to 70–80°C (158–176°F); you will need to use a
thermometer. Maintain this heat for 30 minutes. To avoid excess evaporation,
cover the jug with cling film (plastic wrap). Leave to cool, then add the
orangeflower water to the Plantapon, cellulose gum, glycerine and Lamesoft mix,
stirring slowly to avoid adding air and causing foam. Add the essential oils and
grapefruit seed extract, and pour into a clean, sterilized bottle; a lotion pump does
make application easier.

HOW TO APPLY
The wash is suitable for the hands and all-over body use.
◁ Refreshing Citrus Fragrance
This zesty perfume is based on traditional, natural citrus-based scents. On a
hot summer’s day this is the perfect pick-me-up, so carry some with you in a
small spray bottle for instant refreshment. The formulation contains all-natural
essential oils, so make sure you spray liberally and often for maximum benefit
and effect.

Makes approx. 50ml (11/2fl oz)

INGREDIENTS
42ml (23/4 tbsp) formulators’ alcohol (100%)
15 drops bergamot essential oil
12 drops lemon essential oiI
6 drops mandarin essential oil
3 drops rosemary essential oil
5 drops petitgrain essential oil
3 drops benzoin essential oil
3 drops labdanum essential oil
3 drops marjoram essential oil
5.5ml (1 tsp) orangeflower water

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
optional: cling film (plastic wrap)
optional: glass bottle with lid (for storage)
fine coffee filter paper
glass perfume bottle (for the dressing table) or plastic spray bottle with cap (for on-the-
go)

SAFE STORAGE
Store in a cool, dry place away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 12 months.
Step 1
Measure the alcohol into a glass measuring jug. Add the drops of essential oils,
followed by the orangeflower water and stir to mix thoroughly.
Step 2
Cover the jug with cling film (plastic wrap), or ideally transfer the mixture to a glass
bottle with a tightly fitting lid, and leave in a cool place to mature for 5–7 days to
allow the fragrance to blend with the alcohol.
Step 3
Place the jug or bottle in the fridge overnight to bring down any sediment. Pass the
fragrance through a fine coffee filter paper, then pour the fragrance into the glass
or spray bottle and attach the cap.

HOW TO APPLY
Splash or spritz the fragrance on to pulse points as often as desired. The
fragrance is very light and fresh and can therefore be used generously, especially
in hot weather.

Tip!
The recipe makes a 5% perfume solution based on 1 drop = 0.05ml.
Warming, Relaxing, Soothing
WARMING EXOTIC SPICES, WOODS AND RESINS SUCH AS GINGER,
CINNAMON, SANDALWOOD AND FRANKINCENSE ARE BLENDED
WITH INDULGENT PLANT TREATMENT OILS TO CREATE
COMFORTING PREPARATIONS TO SOOTHE AND RELAX A TIRED
BODY AND MIND.
◁Sauna Face Mask with Frankincense and
Cypress
This mask has an amazing ability to heat when it comes into contact with the
skin. As such it makes a wonderfully warming and soothing winter skin
treatment. You will need to allow some time for the ingredients to be heated
prior to making the mask, so why not get everything ready, then run a bath
or fix a foot spa while you wait.

Makes approx. 100g (31/2oz)

INGREDIENTS
10g (2 tsp) kaolin (or a little extra if the mix is too runny)
25g (3/4oz) Epsom salts
60ml (2fl oz) glycerine
10 drops frankincense essential oil
10 drops cypress essential oil

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
baking tray (cookie sheet)

SAFE STORAGE
Ideally, the mask should be used immediately for best effect. Alternatively, it can be stored in
an airtight jar in the fridge for 2 days, after which time the warming effect may diminish as
the mask absorbs moisture from the surrounding air. Try reheating the mask gently in a
100°C (210°F) oven for about 20 minutes to regenerate the warming properties.

Step 1
Preheat the oven to 100°C (210°F). Place the kaolin and Epsom salts on a baking
tray (cookie sheet) and put in the oven for 30 minutes to sterilize the kaolin and
desiccate the Epsom salts, which is important for the efficacy of the mask. (The
warmth of the mask is generated from the reaction of the Epsom salts regaining
moisture from the dampness of the skin, hence the importance of this step.)
Remove from the oven and allow to cool.

Step 2
Place the dry ingredients in a clean, dry bowl or glass jug. Add the glycerine and
the essential oils and mix thoroughly.

HOW TO APPLY
Ensure the skin is damp before applying the mask to the face and neck, avoiding
the eye area. Massage into the skin and leave on for 5 to 10 minutes, then rinse
the face with warm water or hot cloths to remove all traces of the mask.
◁ Hot Cloth Facial Cleansers
Hot cloth cleansing is truly reminiscent of luxury spas: just imagine the sheer
relaxation of experiencing a facial using muslin cloths at just the right
temperature to take all that stress away, while at the same time giving an
amazing, deep cleansing treatment. We also love them when they are handed
out in a restaurant at the end of a great meal, sometimes using them on our
faces as well as our hands because it just feels fabulous. If you love this kind of
treatment, then why not try it as part of a pampering skincare treat when
you’re at home. Choose the cleansing water recipe that best suits your skin
(see here and here). Each one contains both beneficial aromatic essential oils
and extracts as well as the Plantacare ingredients that will help to cleanse the
skin.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE

If you are using the hot cloth cleansers on your face, it is very important to remove
all make-up first using a good cleanser such as our Calming Facial Cleansing
Balm.
Step 1
Choose a comfortable place in which to relax and experience your treatment.
Place a muslin facecloth in a microwaveable dish and pour sufficient cleansing
water on to the cloth so that it is damp and has absorbed the solution. Cover and
place in the microwave for 1 minute. Check that the temperature of the cloth is just
right: it must be really warm, but not too hot. Repeat the heating if the cloth is not
warm enough and always check carefully before using.
Step 2
Remove the cloth from the dish and wring out the excess water, so that the cloth is
not dripping wet. Lay it delicately over your face, so the steam can open up your
pores and allow the cleanser and essential oils to work on your skin. Relax and
enjoy the experience, allowing the warming cloth to soothe your skin. You may find
that holding the warm cloth and gently pressing around the temples and the sides
of your nose will help to ease any congestion and associated tension.

Step 3
As the skin has been pre-cleansed there should be no need to rinse the cloth, but
you may wish to repeat the treatment with a second cloth to prolong the warming,
beneficial action. Follow the hot cloth treatment with our Melissa and Bergamot
Facial Spritz for a refreshing pick me up, or the rosewater variation (see here) for a
restorative, balancing treatment. Finish with your chosen moisturizer, such as the
Facial Serum with Pomegranate and Geranium, or the Regenerating Rose Facial
Oil for a richer, night-time treatment.
Detoxifying Seaweed Cleansing Water
You don’t need to live by the sea and have access to fresh seaweed to make
this reviving cleansing water; simply use dried seaweed, which can be
purchased online (see Directory of Suppliers), and follow the packet
instructions to create the infusion. The resulting water is a beautiful pale
green, as relaxing to look at as it is to use.

Makes approx. 100ml (31/2fl oz)

INGREDIENTS
93ml (31/4fl oz) seaweed infusion (from dried seaweed and water, see Step 1)
2.5ml (1/2 tsp) Plantacare 818
1.5ml (1/3 tsp) glycerine
5 drops fennel essential oil
5 drops thyme essential oil
40 drops grapefruit seed extract

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
metal sieve
heatproof jug
sterilized bottle with cap

SAFE STORAGE
Store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 3 months.
Step 1
Combine the dried seaweed with water, according to the packet instructions, and
leave to infuse.
Step 2
Measure out the amount required for the recipe, using a metal sieve to filter out the
dried seaweed.
Step 3
In a small dish, premix the Plantacare 818 with the glycerine and essential oils,
then add the grapefruit seed extract.
Step 4
Add this mixture to the seaweed infusion and stir to combine completely. Pour into
a sterilized bottle with a cap.

HOW TO APPLY
Follow the instructions shown here for how to use the hot cloth facial treatments to
best effect.
Adaptation:
Regenerating Rose Cleansing Water

This gentle, clear cleansing water has the power to cleanse the skin effectively and
quickly.
Makes approx. 100ml (31/2fl oz)

INGREDIENTS
93ml (31/4fl oz) rose water
2.5ml (1/2 tsp) Plantacare 818
1.5ml (1/3 tsp) glycerine
40 drops grapefruit seed extract

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
heatproof jug
metal saucepan or bain marie
thermometer
sterilized bottle and cap
Measure the rose water, Plantacare 818 and glycerine into a heatproof jug and stir to
combine. Place the jug in a pan of simmering water or bain marie and heat to 80°C
(176°F); you will need to use a thermometer. Maintain this heat for 30 minutes. To avoid
excess evaporation, cover the jug with cling film (plastic wrap).
Remove from the heat and allow the liquid to cool to 30–40°C (86–104°F), then add
the grapefruit seed extract and mix well. Pour into a sterilized bottle with cap.

SAFE STORAGE
Store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 3 months.

HOW TO APPLY
Follow the instructions shown here for how to use the hot cloth facial treatments to best
effect.
Adaptation:
Restful Lavender Cleansing Water

This variation on the Regenerating Rose Cleansing Water uses lavender water as a base.
Makes approx. 100ml (31/2fl oz)

INGREDIENTS
93ml (31/4fl oz) lavender water
2.5ml (1/2 tsp) Plantacare 818
1.5ml (1/3 tsp) glycerine
40 drops grapefruit seed extract

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
heatproof jug
metal saucepan or bain marie
thermometer
sterilized bottle with cap
Measure the lavender water, Plantacare 818 and glycerine into a heatproof jug and stir to
combine. Place the jug in a pan of simmering water or bain marie and heat to 80°C
(176°F); you will need to use a thermometer. Maintain this heat for 30 minutes. To avoid
excess evaporation, cover the jug with cling film (plastic wrap).
Remove from the heat and allow the liquid to cool to 30–40°C (86–104°F), then add
the grapefruit seed extract and mix well. Pour into a sterilized bottle with cap.

SAFE STORAGE
Store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 3 months.

HOW TO APPLY
Follow the instructions shown here for how to use the hot cloth facial treatments to best
effect.
◁ Warming, Sensual Body Massage Oil
This deliciously scented body massage oil contains warming ginger blended
with sensual frankincense and ylang ylang and balanced by calming rose
geranium. The nourishing oil blend sinks naturally into the skin, but has just
the right amount of play to make a perfect massage oil. Although the recipe
has a long list of ingredients, you will find it very quick and simple to make,
with no heating or special mixing, so if you find that you have used up a
batch, you can quickly make another.

Makes approx. 100ml (31/2fl oz)

INGREDIENTS
30ml (2 tbsp) rapeseed oil
5ml (1 tsp) evening primrose oil
40ml (23/4 tbsp) sweet almond oil
5ml (1 tsp) rosehip oil
10ml (2 tsp) grapeseed oil
9ml (23/4 tsp) olive oil
5 drops rose geranium essential oil
5 drops ginger essential oil
5 drops frankincense essential oil
5 drops ylang ylang essential oil

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
sterilized bottle and cap

SAFE STORAGE
Store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 6 months.

Step 1
Measure the ingredients into a beaker or jug in the exact order shown above. Stir
thoroughly to mix the vegetal oils and the essential oils together, then pour into the
sterilized bottle and seal.

Massage has an amazing ability to release tension and soothe both

body and mind; the action of massage releases endorphins, which
improve our sense of well-being. The techniques on the opposite
page can be useful in providing both self-massage and simple
treatments for a partner.
Massage Techniques

SELF-MASSAGE
Practise slow, deep abdominal breathing, often known as yoga breathing. Close your eyes
and stroke your fingers from the bridge of your nose over the eyebrows to the temples.
Then apply gentle pressure to the temples and below the cheekbones, which will help to
clear blocked sinuses and ease tension. With your hands on the sides of your head, place
your thumbs into the indentations at the base of the skull and hold for 5 to 10 seconds,
then release.
To ease tension in the neck and shoulders, place your left hand on your right
shoulder and squeeze the flesh between your palm and fingers. Hold for a few seconds
and release. Applying gentle pressure, use the fingertips to massage the side of the neck
and top of the shoulder, working into any knots. Stroke the area using downward
movements, then repeat on the other side.

PARTNER MASSAGE
Check that your partner is not pregnant, or has contra-indications to any specific
essential oils you plan to use. Ensure that the room is warm and that your partner is
relaxed and comfortable. With your partner lying flat, face down on a bed or thick
blanket, place a rolled-up towel under their head to keep the back and neck straight and
well supported during the massage. You can also place a rolled-up towel under their
feet.

BACK MASSAGE
Place a small amount of the massage oil in your palms and rub the hands together to
warm them before you begin. Place your hands on your partner’s lower back on either
side of the spine. Slowly stroke up the back and over the shoulders, fanning your hands
out at the top of the shoulders, then glide your hands lightly down the sides of the body.
Repeat 4 or 5 times.
Starting at the base of the spine, use your thumbs to make circular outward pressing
movements on either side of the spine. Continue this movement over the upper back
and shoulders to the neck, which may feel knotted and tight as it is where many people
hold tension. Cup your fingers around the base of the neck and stroke up to the hairline
in a continuous movement using gentle pressure with the fingers and thumb. Repeat
about 8 times.
Finish the massage with some cat strokes. Using the palms of your hands, stroke
alternate hands down your partner’s back, from the shoulder to the base of the spine; as
one hand comes to the end of a stroke, the other takes over, creating a continuous
rhythmic movement. Finally, place your warm hands on your partner’s lower back for
about a minute, using gentle pressure, then finally circle the hands once and remove
them, holding them briefly above your partner who will feel the heat coming from them.
◁ Ginger, Eucalyptus and Cinnamon Muscle
Balm
This warming balm is our version of Tiger Balm, but uses moisturizing
wheatgerm and sweet almond oil with beeswax as a natural base, and a
blend of eucalyptus and spicy essential oils to help soothe tired and aching
muscles. If you put the balm into a small jar or mini tin, the recipe becomes
easily transportable, so is very handy for use when travelling. It is also ideal
for use after sporting activities or a spot of gardening.

Makes approx. 50g (13/4oz)

INGREDIENTS
20ml (11/3 tbsp) wheatgerm oil
22ml (11/2 tbsp) sweet almond oil
5g (1 tsp) beeswax
30 drops eucalyptus essential oil
35 drops cinnamon essential oil
35 drops ginger essential oil

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
heatproof jug
metal saucepan or bain marie
sterilized glass jars and lids

SAFE STORAGE
Store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 6 months.

Step 1
Measure the wheatgerm and sweet almond oils and beeswax into a heatproof jug.
Step 2
Place the jug in a pan of simmering water and heat until melted. Remove from the
heat and allow to cool until the mixture just begins to show signs of cloudiness.

Step 3
Add the essential oils and stir to ensure they are thoroughly mixed. Pour into a
sterilized jar (or 2 smaller jars) with a lid.

HOW TO APPLY
Massage the balm gently into areas of stiffness, such as the back and shoulders,
to warm and soothe muscles. Do not use on the face or around the eye area.
◁ Hot Oil Hair Treatment Mask
This recipe is something of a trip down memory lane for those who
remember the hot oil hair treatments of the 1970s and 1980s. As we love
old recipes, we thought this one was just about due for a revival using the
natural ingredients and oils around today. So get your favourite old vinyl
records out and dance around the kitchen with your hair wrapped in a towel,
giving it a superb, nourishing treatment at the same time.

Makes approx. 100ml (31/2fl oz)

INGREDIENTS
84ml (23/4fl oz) fractionated
coconut oil
4ml (3/4 tsp) argan oil
3ml (1/2 tsp) baobab oil
3ml (1/2 tsp) meadowfoam oil
5ml (1 tsp) Polysorbate 20
3 drops sandalwood essential oil
4 drops thyme essential oil
3 drops rosemary essential oil

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
glass bottle and cap
heatproof jug

SAFE STORAGE
Store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 3 months.

Step 1
Place the coconut, argan, baobab and meadowfoam oils into a glass bottle,
followed by the Polysorbate 20, and stir to combine thoroughly. Add the essential
oils and continue to mix until clear.

Step 2
Place the bottle into a heatproof jug and pour hot (not boiling) water into the jug
around the bottle, so that the height of the water is almost at the height of the liquid
in the bottle. Leave the bottle in the jug for around 5 minutes, until the oil is warm
(not hot) to the touch, then remove from the jug using a tea towel if the bottle is
hot.

HOW TO APPLY
Pour a small amount of the warm oil into the palm of the hand. Apply to dry or
damp hair, spreading the oil along the hair shaft to coat it. Wrap the hair in a towel
and leave for 20 minutes, then shampoo and rinse the hair as normal afterwards.
◁ Hot or Cold Soothing Wheat Pack
A wheat pack is so versatile! It can be heated to soothe aching muscles and
aid relaxation, or chilled to create a cooling, restful eye mask, which blocks
out the light and aids sleep. The addition of fragrant lavender flowers adds to
the relaxing qualities. This project is so simple to make from small pieces of
fabric and would make a perfect gift.

INGREDIENTS
pearl barley or rice
dried lavender flowers
optional: lavender essential oil

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
cotton fabric
scissors
pins
sewing machine
cotton sewing thread (to match fabric)
iron
needle

SAFE STORAGE
Store in a cool, dry place away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 12 months, but the life of the
wheat pack may be reduced by repeated use.
Step 1
Choose the fabric for your wheat pack and fold it in half so you have a double
thickness of material. Measure the desired amount of fabric – for an eye mask, use
20 x 9cm (8 x 3.5in); for a warming pack use 50 x 12cm (20.5 x 4.5in) – allowing
an extra 1cm (0.5in) all around for a seam. Cut out the 2 rectangles of fabric, then
place the 2 pieces together with the right sides facing inwards and the wrong sides
facing out. Pin the four sides together, leaving a 2.5cm (1in) gap in the seam for
filling. Using a sewing machine, stitch the seams and turn the bag right side out.
Press the seams flat with an iron.
Step 2
Estimate the amount of filling required, but remember that the bag should not be
completely full as it needs to fold around the body. Pour the pearl barley into a
bowl, then add the lavender flowers and mix together well so the flowers are
evenly dispersed. Allow around 20% lavender to 80% pearl barley. If the scent
seems faint, add a few drops of lavender oil to the mix, but do remember that
anything placed on the face doesn’t need to be very strong. If you do this, ensure
the filling is dry before proceeding. Spoon the lavender and pearl barley into the
hole in the pack until it is about three-quarters full. With your needle and thread,
slip stitch the open seam to close it.

HOW TO APPLY
To create a warming pack, place a glass bowl of water in a microwave, then place
the wheat pack alongside. Heat for 1–2 minutes on high, then lay the pack across
aching muscles. To use as a cooling mask for tired eyes, place the pack in a
plastic bag in the fridge to chill. Remove the bag, lay the pack across the eyes and
relax.
◁ Scented Candles
All good-quality candles are expensive, so why not make your own? You are
able to use natural wax rather than paraffin wax, and can tailor the choice of
fragrance or essential oils to your mood – creating a candle to lift your spirits
or to complement a relaxing spa experience.
The percentage of fragrance or essential oils in the wax blend for your
candle should be between 5 and 8 per cent. If using fragrance oils, they must
be designed specifically for candles or they may not work as well. Fragrance
oils can have a more powerful scent than essential oils, and can also be more
affordable, as you do need a relatively large amount of oil, making essential
oils an expensive prospect.

You will need:

• Glass or ceramic containers are ideal for scented candles. For a
candle with a single wick you could use a standard drinking glass
with a diameter of around 8cm, or a smaller votive glass. Larger
containers require multiple wicks, which is a more complex
undertaking. They also generate a fair amount of heat and can be
more of a fire risk, so we prefer to stick to single-wick candles for
our spa experience.
• You will need to choose the correct wick size for your candles from
a specialist supplier; the wick needs to be appropriate for the wax
you have chosen and for the size of your container, so do check
with your supplier as they will be able to guide you in the right
direction. It’s important to set the wick right in the centre and to
keep it straight – we use wick stickers on the base of the container
to hold the wick in place, and use a wick holder or place wooden
skewers around the wick to hold it straight.
• To achieve a good finish when making scented candles, you need
to pour the wax in two stages. The first pour is the main pour, to
around 2cm below the rim. The second and final top-up ensures
 there are no dips in the top of the candle and gives a professional
finish.

SAFETY
• Keep candles away from anything that may catch fire – curtains, bedding,
furniture etc. Always place them on a stable, heat-resistant surface.
• Never burn candles for more than 4 hours at a time.
• Extinguish all candles when leaving a room or going to sleep.
• Pinch off the end of the wick in between burns; don’t cut it. Allow the candle
to cool before relighting.

PREPARATION
• Cover work area with an old cloth or newspaper to catch any drips
or spillages of wax.
• Wear an apron to protect your clothing from wax spillages.
• Make sure your containers are clean and dry.
• Measure the volume of your chosen container with water and weigh
out the same amount of wax.
• Calculate the amount of fragrance required, based on the amount
of wax you are using (see Materials).
• Cut up the wax into smaller pieces if necessary; this will help the
wax to melt evenly.

MATERIALS
natural vegetable-based wax
fragrance/essential oils, at a rate of 5–8% of the wax weight, depending on strength
required

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
bain marie/double boiler (the wax could also be melted in a slow cooker on low)
thermometer
pouring vessel, such as metal teapot with pointed spout
wick with metal sustainer, cut to correct length and size for your chosen container (see
here)
wick stickers
wick holder or wooden skewers
glass candle containers
Step 1
Place the wax into the top pan of a bain marie/double boiler and melt. Keep an eye
on the water level; do not allow it to boil dry. Once melted, check the temperature
of the wax: it should be 60°C (140°F) or just below, but check the supplier’s
instructions for recommended pouring temperature. Remove from the heat and
leave to cool if necessary. Warm the jug or pourer with hot water, and dry the
inside before pouring the wax into the warm pourer.
Step 2
Add the fragrance or essential oils to the melted wax in the pourer and stir well
with a skewer to disperse fully. It is important to keep the temperature of the wax at
or below 60°C (140°F) after adding the fragrance, as higher temperatures change
the scent.
Step 3
Place a wick sticker centrally in the base of each container, then place the wick
sustainer on top and secure in place. Check the wick is straight. If necessary,
place wooden skewers crosswise around the wick to keep it straight, or ideally use
a wick holder designed to fit the size of your container.
Step 4
Before you fill them, ensure that the containers you’ve chosen have no cracks or
flaws. Carefully pour the wax from the pourer into the glass containers, and fill to
2cm below the rim. Keep the remaining wax warm over a low heat.
Step 5
Once a thick skin has formed on the wax in the container, after around 10 minutes,
depending on the room temperature and candle size, top the container up to 1cm
from the rim and leave to set fully.

Tips
When pouring the wax, hold a piece of kitchen towel (paper towel) in your other
hand to wipe drips from the pourer.
Leftover wax can be melted and reused, if desired. Do not dispose of wax down
the sink or drains: it will set and cause a blockage. Pour or scrape any unwanted
wax on to paper and place it in the bin.
Clean all tools and equipment with kitchen towel (paper towel) to remove wax
before washing with detergent.

USING AND STORING CANDLES

When making candles, ensure that they are fully cold before attempting to light them, and
ideally leave them for 2 days before lighting them for the first time.
It is important to store candles away from heat and ensure that no dust or debris falls into
the candle, as this can cause secondary burning. Candle lids are available which fit many
standard-sized containers, helping to keep your candle clean and dust-free when not in use.
Regenerating, Balancing
PLANTS AND FLOWERS IN THEIR ORIGINAL FORM ARE USED HERE
ALONGSIDE POWERFUL FLOWER OILS SUCH AS YLANG YLANG,
GERANIUM AND NEROLI, AS WELL AS PRECIOUS OILS FROM
SLEMONGRASS AND POMEGRANATE, TO CREATE INSPIRING
RESTORATIVE, BALANCING TREATMENTS.
◁ Facial Steam with Floating Flowers
Facial steams help to clear the pores, detoxify the skin and promote
circulation. They can also be very relaxing, providing an opportunity to
breathe deeply and allow a few moments of calm and meditation. The steam
does most of the work, but you can augment its effect by adding some
beneficial botanicals to the water.

• Detoxing and Cleansing: fennel, lemon and grapefruit peel, mint and wild pansy
• Relaxing and Soothing: lavender, camomile, marjoram, lime flowers and
primrose
• Problem Skin: thyme, rosemary and marigold
• Dry Skin: camomile, rose and geranium (pelargonium leaves)

Makes approx. 100ml (31/2fl oz)

INGREDIENTS
your chosen herbs and flowers – try sourcing these from the garden, the hedgerow, or
even from your local florist, supermarket or greengrocer

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
large bowl
heatproof mat
bath towel

Step 1
Add a small handful of your chosen herbs or flowers to a large bowl and cover with
boiling water. Leave to cool slightly.

Step 2
Place a heatproof mat on the table and place the bowl on top. Make sure the bowl
is conveniently placed just in front of your face and that you are seated
comfortably. Lean over the bowl so that the steam wafts around you. Then place a
large bath towel over your head to create a steam tent, ensuring there are no gaps
for the steam to escape.

HOW TO APPLY
Breathe deeply and enjoy the scented steam. Take this time to completely clear
the mind of any concerns or worries and to be present in the moment. You may
wish to use a timer to set the amount of time you think appropriate for the
treatment, 5 to 10 minutes is about right.
Adaptation:
Decongestant Steam with Ginger and Eucalyptus

In the winter months, the cold winds and harsh weather combined with central heating
in our homes can take a toll on our skin. In addition, the inevitable coughs, colds and flu,
which seem ever present, can make winter seem like an assault on the senses.
This decongestant steam is based on a traditional treatment that many of us
remember from childhood, when we were often given mentholated vapour rubs. The
decongestant properties of the ingredients below help to clear the head and chest.
Following the steps for the Facial Steam with Floating Flowers, try adding some of the
following essential oils in Step 1 to help relieve blocked sinuses and headaches, as well as
assisting with easing cough and cold symptoms: eucalyptus, pine, tea tree, rosemary,
lavender, ravensara. You can also add detoxifying and cleansing slices of ginger root, and
decongestant juniper if you are lucky enough to have some in your garden.

SAFE STORAGE
Use immediately once you have prepared the steam treatment.

HOW TO APPLY
Inhale the steam through the nose, if possible, to allow the vapour to help relieve congestion
in the head.
◁Dispersing Bath Oil with Dried Flowers and
Herbs
This moisturizing, dispersing bath oil can be made simply as a lovely bath
soak, or as a decorative item to display in your bathroom with a selection of
dried flowers and herbs. A beautiful glass decanter-style bottle is the perfect
container for your creative ideas.

Makes approx. 100ml (31/2fl oz)

INGREDIENTS
a selection of suitable flowers and herbs (see here)
25ml (5 tsp) sunflower oil
5ml (1 tsp) evening primrose oil
5ml (1 tsp) rosehip oil
50ml (11/2fl oz) sweet almond oil
10ml (2 tsp) Polysorbate 20
60 drops neroli essential oil
20 drops jasmine essential oil in dilution
40 drops lemongrass essential oil

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
sterilized glass bottle and cork closure (to suit flowers chosen)
scissors or garden secateurs
tweezers
kitchen towel (paper towel)
tray

SAFE STORAGE
Store in a cool, dry place away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 6 months if unopened; or 4
weeks once open.
Step 1
Place sheets of kitchen towel (paper towel) on a tray that fits in your airing
cupboard, then place your chosen flowers on the tray, ideally with the petals flat.
Leave the stalks as long as possible as they can be cut to the desired length later.
Leave the tray in the cupboard for up to a week to dry fully. Keep away from strong
direct light.
Step 2
Measure the oils and Polysorbate 20 into a glass measuring jug. Add the essential
oils and ensure the bath oil is well mixed. Choose a suitable glass bottle in which
to display the flowers and herbs inside your oil. The bottle will need to have a wide
neck to allow you to place the flowers inside with the aid of long tweezers.
Step 3
Once the flowers are dry (but still pliable), select the most suitable for placing in
the bottle. Cut the stems to varying lengths to allow you to position the flower
heads at different heights in the bottle for best effect. Using tweezers, gently push
the flowers into the bottle – longest first as these anchor any additional flower
heads or shorter pieces which may have a tendency to float once the oil is added –
then use the tweezers to move them around for the best placing. Pour the
prepared bath oil into the bottle so that the flowers are fully covered.

HOW TO APPLY
Add 2 to 3 tablespoons to your bath.
The moisturizing oils will disperse in the water, creating a luxurious, scented bath,
which will soften and condition the skin.
◁Facial Serum with Pomegranate and
Geranium
This regenerating facial serum with pomegranate and geranium is light
enough to use underneath make-up, but still packs a punch of rich antioxidant
oils to help nourish and protect the skin. Aloe vera juice soothes and calms,
while the notes of geranium and frankincense essential oils add just the right
fragrant balance to help start your day.

Makes approx. 100ml (31/2fl oz)

INGREDIENTS
2ml (1/2 tsp) glycerine
0.3g (1/16 tsp) xanthan gum
80ml (23/4fl oz) aloe vera juice
4ml (3/4 tsp) pomegranate oil
4ml (3/4 tsp) olive oil
4ml (3/4 tsp) Squalane
3g (1/2 tsp) Olivem 1000
10 drops frankincense essential oil
10 drops geranium essential oil
40 drops grapefruit seed extract

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
heatproof jug
metal saucepan or bain marie
stick blender
plastic bottle or pump dispenser

SAFE STORAGE
Store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 3 months.
Step 1
Premix the glycerine with the xanthan gum in a small glass beaker or jug, and stir
to ensure there are no lumps. Set aside.

Step 2
Weigh the aloe vera juice, pomegranate oil, olive oil, Squalane and Olivem 1000
into a heatproof jug, and add the premix to the jug. Place the jug in a pan of
simmering water or bain marie and heat to 70–80°C (158–176°F); you will need to
use a thermometer. Maintain this heat for 30 minutes. To avoid excess
evaporation, cover the jug with cling film (plastic wrap).

Step 3
Remove from the heat and whizz with a stick blender. Cool to around 40°C
(104°F), add the essential oils and grapefruit seed extract and mix well until
uniform. The serum will be quite free-flowing and can be dispensed from either a
plastic bottle or a pump dispenser.

HOW TO APPLY
Use at night or in the morning under make-up. Rub a little of the serum between
your fingers and apply a light layer to the skin.
◁ Regenerating Rose Facial Oil
This rich yet light and easily absorbed facial treatment uses a nourishing blend
of oils, including rice bran oil. Widely available in supermarkets due to its
more common culinary usage, it also has great skincare benefits. Peruvian
Inca Inchi, rich in antioxidants and Omega 3, 6 and 9, protects and
moisturizes dry skin, while pomegranate oil and rosehip oil offer regenerative
and anti-ageing properties. As this recipe contains no water and is simply a
mix of beneficial oils, there is no need for heating or a preservative, making it
a quick and easy product to make. As well as being a facial oil, you could use
this recipe as a facial massage treatment either for someone else, or as a self-
massage (see below).

Makes approx. 50ml (11/2fl oz)

INGREDIENTS
10ml (2 tsp) Inca Inchi oil
10ml (2 tsp) rosehip oil
20ml (4 tsp) rice bran oil
5ml (1 tsp) vitamin E oil
5ml (1 tsp) pomegranate oil
3 drops rose geranium essential oil

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
sterilized bottle and cap

SAFE STORAGE
Store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 6 months.

Step 1
Measure the oils into a glass jug in the order shown in the ingredients above, add
the essential oil and stir to combine thoroughly. Pour the liquid into a sterilized
bottle and secure the cap. Using a coloured glass bottle such as green, blue or
amber will help to protect the oil and prolong its shelf life.

HOW TO APPLY
Use a few drops of the facial oil night or day and massage into the skin until
absorbed. Remember to ensure that your hands are warm before pouring a small
amount of the oil into your palm. Rub the palms together to spread the oil and then
massage into the face and neck using gentle upward movements with the
fingertips. Follow the self-massage instructions shown here for more detailed
instructions.
Adaptation:
Restorative Sleep Facial Oil

This variation on the Regenerating Rose Facial Oil blends lavender and hop essential oils,
known for their ability to assist restful sleep, with regenerative rosehip and moisturizing
Inca Inchi and evening primrose oils for a restorative and relaxing bedtime facial
treatment.
Makes approx. 50ml (11/2fl oz)

INGREDIENTS
10ml (2 tsp) Inca Inchi oil
10ml (2 tsp) rosehip oil
20ml (4 tsp) rice bran oil
5ml (1 tsp) vitamin E oil
5ml (1 tsp) evening primrose oil
3 drops lavender essential oil
2 drops hop essential oil

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
sterilized bottle and cap
Follow the instructions for the Regenerating Rose Facial Oil.

SAFE STORAGE
Store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 6 months.

HOW TO APPLY
Use a few drops of the facial oil night or day and massage into the skin until absorbed.
◁ Balancing Body Lotion
This light and easily absorbed body lotion is enriched with nourishing oils and
butters to help restore and balance your skin. The scent of orangeflower
water combines with exotic ylang and earthy palmarosa essential oils to give
that tropical spa sensation. As you apply the lotion, close your eyes and
imagine being transported to a lush paradise of palm-fringed beaches, with
the sound of gentle waves lapping the shore. It is a real feast for the senses.

Makes approx. 100ml (31/2fl oz)

INGREDIENTS
3ml (1/2 tsp) glycerine
10ml (2 tsp) spring water
60ml (2fl oz) orangeflower water
5g (1 tsp) Olivem 1000
5ml (1 tsp) olive oil
10ml (2 tsp) Inca Inchi oil
6g (11/4 tsp) shea butter
5 drops ylang ylang essential oil
5 drops palmarosa essential oil
40 drops grapefruit seed extract

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
heatproof jug
metal saucepan or bain marie
thermometer
stick blender
sterilized airtight jar and lid

SAFE STORAGE
 Store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 3 months.

Step 1
Measure all the ingredients except the essential oils and grapefruit seed extract
into a heatproof jug. Place the jug in a pan of simmering water or bain marie and
heat to 70–80°C (158–176°F); you will need to use a thermometer. Maintain this
heat for 30 minutes. To avoid excess evaporation, cover the jug with cling film
(plastic wrap). Remove from the heat and whizz with a stick blender.
Step 2
Cool to around 40°C (104°F), add the essential oils and grapefruit seed extract
and stir until the lotion is uniform. Spoon into a sterilized airtight jar and secure the
lid once the mixture has cooled.

HOW TO APPLY
Apply liberally to the body, especially after a bath or shower. Leave for a few
minutes to be absorbed into the skin before getting dressed.
◁ Floating Candles
Floating candles used to be very popular, but in recent years they seem to
have become unfashionable, having been ousted by the trend for scented
candles in containers. However, floating candles do create the most relaxing
and magical ambience when resting on the surface of water in a beautiful
bowl. The larger the container, the greater the effect. You can choose a
beautifully shaped mould for your candles, add fragrance, a touch of glitter, or
embossed patterns to give the candles your own special look. A few well-
chosen botanical additions in the water, such as flower heads, or your
favourite fresh leaves or herbs, will add to the mood you wish to create.

MATERIALS
natural vegetable-based wax
flowers or foliage, for decoration

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
bain marie/double boiler (the wax could also be melted in a slow cooker on low)
thermometer
pouring vessel, such as metal teapot with pointed spout
wick, with sustainer, cut to correct length and size for your chosen mould
wick stickers
mini metal patisserie moulds
large ceramic or glass bowl
optional: wooden skewers
optional: embossing stamps and glitter or embossing powder

PREPARATION
• Cover work area with an old cloth or newspaper to catch any drips
or spillages of wax.
• Wear an apron to protect your clothing from wax spillages.
• Make sure your moulds are clean and dry.
• Measure the volume of your chosen container with water and weigh
out the same amount of wax.
• Cut up the wax into smaller pieces if necessary; this will help the
wax to melt evenly.
• Choose any embossing stamps or glitter you wish to try.
Step 1
Place the wax into the top pan of a bain marie/double boiler. Keep an eye on the
water level and do not allow it to boil dry. Once melted, check the temperature of
the wax: it should be 60°C (140°F) or just below, but check the instructions
supplied with the wax for the recommended pouring temperature. Remove from
the heat and leave to cool if necessary. Warm the jug or pourer with hot water, and
dry the inside before pouring the wax into the warm pourer.
Step 2
Place a wick sticker centrally in the base of each mould, then place the wick
sustainer on top and secure in place. Check the wick is straight. If necessary,
place wooden skewers crosswise around the wick to keep it straight.
Step 3
Carefully pour the wax from the pourer into the moulds, all the way to the top if
they are relatively shallow. Keep the remaining wax warm over a low heat to top up
if the floating candles show signs of dipping in the centre.
Leave to set fully before turning out the candles from the moulds. Fill your bowl
two-thirds full with water and arrange the candles with flowers or foliage in the
bowl.
Tips
See the tips for the Scented Candles. Please bear these in mind when working
with the candle wax for the Floating Candles.

EMBOSSING AND DECORATING (OPTIONAL)

You can choose to decorate your floating candles by creating a relief pattern using
embossing stamps if you wish. This will need to be done when the candle wax is almost
solid, and it is a case of trial and error to get the wax to the stage where it is still just
soft enough to take the emboss (but not too soft!). Use your chosen stamps to gently
press an imprint into the candle in the mould. The effect can be enhanced by using
embossing powder or extremely fine glitter very sparingly. Again, test out different ideas
and products to achieve your desired effect; it does look stunning once the candles are
lit and floating in their beautiful bowl.
Calming, Sleep-inducing, Restful
HERBAL ESSENTIAL OILS SUCH AS LAVENDER AND HOP HAVE BEEN
USED FOR GENERATIONS TO HELP RELAX AND PROMOTE SLEEP.
THESE TRIED AND TESTED INGREDIENTS ARE COMBINED WITH
CALMING WOODY OILS SUCH AS CEDAR AND SANDALWOOD TO
CREATE RELAXING TREATMENTS FOR BOTH BODY AND MIND.
◁ Calming Facial Cleansing Balm
A good cleanser is the key to any spa facial treatment. This solid cleansing
balm is the most moisturizing and indulgent facial cleanser, as it melts on the
skin, turning to a soft milky lotion as you add warm water. For an exfoliating
treatment, add a small amount of bamboo powder to the cleansing balm and
combine with your fingers; this is perfect for use on dry skin patches around
the elbows, feet and knees. You will find that a little of the cleansing balm
goes a long way when using this recipe, making it a great choice for packing in
your holiday luggage. At the final stage, why not try pouring some of the
product into a separate small plastic jar, specifically for use when travelling.
Then you will always be ready with the perfect-sized cleanser if you are
packing in a hurry or have limited space in your luggage. The Directory of
Suppliers will help you find something suitable.

Makes approx. 100ml (31/2fl oz)

INGREDIENTS
40ml (23/4 tbsp) sweet almond oil
10g (2 tsp) Polysorbate 20
38ml (21/2 tbsp) fractionated coconut oil
5g (1 tsp) cetyl alcohol
6g (11/4 tsp) beeswax
20 drops lavender essential oil

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
heatproof jug
metal saucepan or bain marie
thermometer
sterilized jars and lids
 SAFE STORAGE
Store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 6 months.

Step 1
Place all the ingredients apart from the lavender essential oil in a heatproof jug
and place the jug in a pan of simmering water or bain marie. Heat to 70–80°C
(158–176°F); you will need to use a thermometer. Remove the jug from the heat
and leave to cool slightly, then whizz with a stick blender.
Step 2
Allow the temperature of the liquid to reduce to 45–50°C (113–122°F), then stir in
the lavender oil to combine. Pour the liquid balm into sterilized jars and allow to
set, then seal the lids.

HOW TO APPLY
Scoop out about half a teaspoonful and, using the fingertips, massage the balm
gently around the face to loosen make-up. Remove the residue with a Hot Cloth
Facial Cleanser for super clean and calmed skin.
◁ Rich, Restful Night Cream Mask
A rich and nourishing night-time treat to soothe and smooth fatigued skin.
Allow the beneficial butters, plant oils and essential oils to get to work while
you sleep.

Makes approx. 100ml (31/2fl oz)

INGREDIENTS

Phase 1
43ml (3 tbsp) lavender water
5ml (1 tsp) aloe juice
10g (2 tsp) ESP Organic SafeEmuls SCA
5g (1 tsp) shea butter
5g (1 tsp) cetearyl alcohol
2g (1/2 tsp) beeswax

Phase 2
7ml (11/2 tsp) rosehip oil
7ml (11/2 tsp) evening primrose oil
14ml (3 tsp) wheatgerm oil

Phase 3
15 drops lavender essential oil
5 drops hop essential oil
40 drops grapefruit seed extract

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
heatproof jug
metal saucepan or bain marie
thermometer
stick blender
 SAFE STORAGE
Store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 3 months.

Step 1
Place all the ingredients from phase 1 into a heatproof jug. Place the jug in a pan
of simmering water or bain marie and heat to 70–80°C (158–176°F); you will need
to use a thermometer. Maintain this heat for 30 minutes. To avoid excess
evaporation, cover the jug with cling film (plastic wrap).

Step 2
Remove the jug from the heat and allow to cool slightly. Add the phase 2
ingredients and whizz with a stick blender until a cream is formed. Allow the
temperature to reduce to 40°C (104°F), then stir in the phase 3 ingredients and
continue mixing until the cream is smooth and uniform.

HOW TO APPLY
Apply generously to the face and neck and massage into the skin (see here for
self-massage techniques). Leave overnight and remove with cleanser in the
morning.
◁ Relaxing Herbal Body Cream
A luxurious and indulgent body cream enriched with nourishing rosehip and
argan oils blended with shea butter to pamper, soothe and help calm tired
and troubled skin. A blend of lavender, sandalwood and geranium essential
oils provides just the right relaxing and mood-enhancing scent.

Makes approx. 100ml (31/2fl oz)

INGREDIENTS
12g (21/2 tsp) ESP Organic SafeEmuls SCA
5ml (1 tsp) glycerine
60ml (2fl oz) lavender water
5ml (1 tsp) rosehip oil
5ml (1 tsp) argan oil
9g (13/4 tsp) shea butter
2g (1/2 tsp) cetyl alcohol
8 drops lavender essential oil
4 drops sandalwood essential oil
8 drops geranium essential oil
40 drops grapefruit seed extract

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
heatproof jug
metal saucepan or bain marie
thermometer
stick blender
sterilized airtight jars with lids

SAFE STORAGE
Store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 3 months.
Step 1
Place all the ingredients apart from the essential oils and grapefruit seed extract in
a heatproof jug. Place the jug in a pan of simmering water and heat to 70–80°C
(158–176°F); you will need to use a thermometer. Maintain this heat for 30
minutes. To avoid excess evaporation, cover the jug with cling film (plastic wrap).

Step 2
Remove the jug from the heat and allow to cool slightly, then whizz with a stick
blender. Allow the temperature to reduce to 40°C (104°F), then add the essential
oils and grapefruit seed extract. Spoon into sterilized airtight jars and secure the
lids once the mixture has completely cooled.

HOW TO APPLY
Apply liberally to the body, especially after a bath or shower. Leave for a few
minutes to be absorbed into the skin before getting dressed.
◁ Indulgent Moisturizing Bath Soak with
Lavender
This highly concentrated and super moisturizing bath soak contains only
natural foaming agents to give the bath water a soft, foamy texture, as well as
soothing evening primrose oil and relaxing lavender oil to give your skin a
truly pampering and hydrating bathtime treat. This kind of richly indulgent
recipe is one you would struggle to find in a commercial product due to the
expensive ingredients used, so it really makes sense to have a go at making
this yourself. Once you have tried it you will really understand the difference
and return to the recipe time after time.

Makes approx. 100ml (31/2fl oz)

INGREDIENTS
10ml (2 tsp) evening primrose oil
56ml (13/4fl oz) Sucragel CF
28ml (13/4 tbsp) coco-glucoside
6ml (11/4 tsp) lavender essential oil

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
sterilized bottle and cap

SAFE STORAGE
Store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 3 months.
Step 1
In a small glass dish or beaker, measure out the evening primrose oil into the
Sucragel CF and stir carefully to combine this premix.
Step 2
Slowly stir through the coco-glucoside and lavender essential oil in turn until the
mix is completely uniform. Pour into a sterilized bottle and seal.

HOW TO APPLY
Use sparingly, as this recipe is really concentrated: pour a couple of teaspoons
into a bath of warm running water to disperse.
◁ Relaxing and Calming Reed Diffuser
Many of us have trouble sleeping, but there are a few simple ideas which can
help us to relax and switch off. Essential oils are powerful tools that can aid in
dealing with the pressures of daily life, and this reed diffuser, with its relaxing
and restful essential oil blend, is a really useful item to make for your home
spa.

Makes approx. 50ml (11/2fl oz)

INGREDIENTS
34ml (21/4 tbsp) formulator’s alcohol
75 drops lavender essential oil
30 drops cedarwood essential oil
30 drops amyris essential oil
15 drops cypress essential oil
8.5ml (11/2 tsp) deionized water

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
rattan reed sticks
narrow-necked bottle with seal

SAFE STORAGE
This recipe is sufficient for a 50ml (11/2fl oz) diffuser, which should last for around 6 weeks,
but you can double the quantities and make 100ml (31/2fl oz), which will last for around 3
months. We generally prefer to make a smaller amount as the mixture stays fresh and is less
likely to be contaminated by dust or any airborne particles that could settle in the bottle.

Step 1
Measure the formulators’ alcohol into a beaker, then add the essential oils and stir
until clear. Slowly add the deionized water, and mix thoroughly. Pour the liquid into
a suitable bottle, seal, and allow to macerate in a cool place for a few days prior to
using the diffuser.
Step 2
When ready, remove the seal and insert around 4 to 6 rattan reeds into the bottle.

HOW TO USE
Turn the reeds regularly to ensure that the fragrant liquid travels up the length of
the reeds and disperses into the air.

Safety Tips
The bottle should not be too tall, as it could be knocked over. Diffusers which
contain alcohol and essential oils are flammable and can be damaging to
furnishings and painted surfaces. Ensure that diffusers are placed well away from
children, pets and open flames.
◁ Sleepy Herbal Tea Infusion
Caffeine is the last thing you need if you want to get a good night’s sleep, so
any evening drink should avoid traditional tea and coffee which might
stimulate the system. This recipe contains valerian and lime flowers, which
are known for their ability to relax and aid restful sleep, and liquorice and
mint, both of which are helpful for digestion. You will find that using whole,
dried ingredients as well as fresh herbs creates a much finer tasting tea than
anything you might find in a sachet, where the ingredients are finely cut and
chopped.

Makes approx. 2 cups

FRESH INGREDIENTS
3 sprigs of peppermint or spearmint, or more or less as desired

DRY INGREDIENTS
1 piece of valerian root, approx. 2.5–3.75cm (1–11/2in) long, crushed
5g (1 tsp) liquorice root, chopped
5g (1 tsp) lime flowers
5g (1 tsp) rose petals

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
glass teapot
kettle
tea strainer
2 cups, mugs or tea glasses

SAFE STORAGE
The tea should be enjoyed immediately and should not be stored for future use.
Step 1
Pick your fresh ingredients and wash them, then set aside.

Step 2
Measure out the dry ingredients into a teapot and add the mint. Pour over boiling
water sufficient for two cups. Allow to infuse for 5 to 10 minutes before pouring into
the cups through a strainer. No sweetener is required as the liquorice gives a
natural sweet aspect to the tea.

HOW TO USE
The tea is best enjoyed hot, so serve immediately.

Tip!
If you make the tea in a glass teapot you will be able to see just how beautiful the
colours of the ingredients look, which is also part of the holistic experience.
◁ Lavender and Hop Pillow Mist
Both lavender and hops have traditionally been used to soothe and calm, and
in particular to help promote rest and relaxed slumber. Hop pillows, made
using English hops, are well known for their association with helping you to
drift off and get a good night’s sleep. This atomizer mist is a simple but
effective way to add calming aromas for a more restful sleep experience. You
will need to choose a bottle with a very fine atomizer pump, like those used
for perfume, so that the mist lightly scents the pillow, rather than making it
too wet.

Makes approx. 100ml (31/2fl oz)

INGREDIENTS
76ml (21/2fl oz) formulators’ alcohol
2 drops lavender essential oil
3 drops hop essential oil
24ml (11/2 tbsp) spring water or demineralized water

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
glass storage bottle with cap
optional: coffee filter paper
glass or plastic bottle with atomizer spray

SAFE STORAGE
Store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 3 months.

Step 1
Pour the formulators’ alcohol into a glass jug or beaker, then add the lavender and
hop essential oils, stirring until clear. Finally, add the spring or demineralized water
slowly, and stir to mix thoroughly.
Step 2
Transfer the liquid into the glass storage bottle, seal the cap and leave in a cool
place to mature for 5 to 7 days to allow the essential oils to settle.

Step 3
After maturing, chill the liquid overnight in the fridge, then decant into a spray
bottle. If desired, decant the liquid through a fine coffee filter paper to remove any
particles. Finally, attach the cap.

HOW TO APPLY
Spray a small amount on to your pillow at bedtime and allow the aroma of lavender
and hops to help you sleep.
Detoxifying, Cleansing
FRESH, CITRUSY LIME, LEMONGRASS AND MELISSA JOIN AROMATIC
PLANT OILS OF CYPRESS AND FENNEL, AS WELL AS OZONIC
SEAWEED, TO CREATE A SELECTION OF DETOXIFYING TREATMENTS
DESIGNED TO CLEANSE AND KICK-START THE BODY AND ELIMINATE
TOXINS.
◁ Peeling Seaweed Face Mask
This peelable face mask is both fun to use and highly effective. It uses a
seaweed alginate base, which is packed with minerals that activate the mask
to set on contact with water, giving your face a cool, revitalizing experience.
To this we have added camomile tea to give a soothing, calming quality to the
detoxifying effect of the seaweed.

Makes approx. 50g (11/2oz)

INGREDIENTS
40ml (23/4 tbsp) camomile tea, made using camomile flower tea bags (such as teapigs)
10g (2 tsp) alginate powder

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
heatproof jug
tall ceramic mug
broad-bladed knife or palette knife

SAFE STORAGE
The mask should be used immediately and any excess discarded after use. Do not discard
down the sink as the alginate does not dissolve in water; discard with household waste or as
composting.

Step 1
Make up the camomile tea in the heatproof jug following the instructions on the
packet. Leave to cool completely.

Step 2
Place the alginate powder in the ceramic mug and add the cold tea, mixing quickly
and continuously with the palette knife to form a smooth, runny paste. Mash the
mix against the sides of the mug to break up any undispersed powder. As soon as
the tea is added to the alginate powder the setting process begins, so speed of
mixing and application to the face (see below) is crucial for effective results.
HOW TO APPLY
Apply a thick layer of the mask to the face immediately and allow to set; this will
take only a few minutes. Leave for 10–15 minutes, then peel the mask off; it
should come off in large pieces or as one continuous film. Discard in household
waste.

Variation
For a cooling eye mask, pour the mix into two dessertspoons and allow to set.
Remove the set gel from the spoons and place over or around closed eyes. Relax
and enjoy.
◁ Ginger, Lemongrass and Lime Loofah Soap
The fresh, zesty fragrance from the ginger, lemongrass and lime essential oils
makes a really refreshing addition to this exfoliating treatment. This is a very
simple and quick way to make your own soap, and this particular form of
melt-and-pour base is a clear, vegetable-derived version. Adding a loofah into
your soap mould with the melt-and-pour base transforms this from simply a
soap to an exfoliating treatment ideal for use in the bath or shower. You can
also have fun adding your own colour, if you wish. If you do choose to colour
your soap, take care to add the concentrated colour very gradually, to avoid
ending up with a more vibrant shade than you had intended.

Makes 1 loofah soap

INGREDIENTS
100g (31/2oz) Crystal Clear Melt and Pour Soap Base
optional: natural food colouring
6 drops ginger essential oil
7 drops lemongrass essential oil
7 drops lime essential oil

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
silicone mould or shallow dish
loofah slice, size and shape to suit your mould (see Step 1)
cling film (plastic wrap)
heatproof jug
metal saucepan or bain marie

SAFE STORAGE
Store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 6 months.
Step 1
Choose a suitable mould or dish, approximately the same diameter as the loofah,
and place the loofah inside. A silicone mould is the best option, but if you cannot
find one then choose a shallow dish and line it with a large sheet of cling film
(plastic wrap), which overlaps the sides of the container. Keep the cling film
(plastic wrap) smooth with no creases. Cut the soap base into small pieces,
approx. 2.5 x 2.5cm (1 x 1in). Place in a heatproof jug in a bain marie over a low
heat and warm the soap base until melted, then remove from the heat and add the
food colouring (if using), a couple of drops at a time, until you reach the desired
shade.
Step 2
Cool the soap to around 60°C (140°F); you will notice a skin beginning to form on
the top. Add the essential oils and stir to combine. Pour the soap into the prepared
mould and allow to cool and solidify completely. Release the soap from the mould
carefully by turning it over and pulling gently on the cling film (plastic wrap) to ease
it out.

HOW TO APPLY
Use the loofah soap as you would a conventional soap, working a lather into the
hands and paying attention to areas of hard skin, allowing the loofah to gently
exfoliate as you wash.
◁ Detoxifying Fizzing Seaweed Bath Tablets
These fun, refreshing alternatives to bath bombs are quick and simple to
create and can be varied in shape and size depending on your choice of
mould. To use a garlic press to make the tablets, cut a piece of greaseproof
paper to fit the base of the press, add the powder into the press and place a
second identical piece of paper on top. Press down to make a tablet and
leave for a few minutes. before turning out. We have used freshly harvested
seaweed for its detoxifying properties, but seaweed powder is also suitable.

Makes approx. 225g (8oz)

INGREDIENTS
10g (2 tsp) dried fresh seaweed
125g (4oz) sodium bicarbonate
62g (21/4oz) citric acid
25g (1oz) cornflour
2.5ml (1/2 tsp) essential oil blend (see below)
witch hazel, as required (see method)

Essential Oil Blend

20 drops grapefruit essential oil
18 drops cedarwood essential oil
12 drops palmarosa essential oil

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
colander
metal baking tray
coffee grinder/smoothie blender
plastic pipette
spray bottle/atomizer
 vinyl gloves
vintage patisserie moulds
optional: garlic press

SAFE STORAGE
Store the tablets in an airtight jar for up to 6 weeks.

Step 1
Preheat the oven to 120°C (250°F). Place the seaweed in a colander and rinse
with plenty of clean, running water. Place the seaweed on a baking tray and into
the oven for about 30 minutes until completely dry. Remove from the oven and set
aside to cool, then blitz the seaweed in a coffee grinder until the particles are fine.
Weigh the other dry ingredients into a mixing bowl, along with the blitzed seaweed.
Combine the essential oils in a jug, then measure out 2.5ml (1/2 tsp) using a plastic
pipette and add to the dry ingredients, stirring well to ensure they are fully mixed.
Put the witch hazel into an atomizer and spray into the bowl until the ingredients
seem slightly damp. Wearing vinyl gloves, check to see if the mixture clumps
together when compressed in the hand; once this happens you are ready to place
the mixture into the moulds.

Step 2
Press the mixture into the moulds with the back of a teaspoon to ensure the
powder is really compacted. Leave the moulds for at least 15 minutes to harden
before inverting them on to a chopping board. Tap the base of the moulds to allow
the tablets to drop down.

HOW TO APPLY
Place 2 or 3 tablets in a warm bath and allow the fizzy tablets to soften and
fragrance the bath water. The essential oils will mix with the aroma of seaweed for
a fabulous, detoxifying soak.
◁ Shower Mud with Juniper, Cypress and
Fennel
Why mud, I hear you ask? Well, once you’ve tried this unusual shower
treatment combining clay and oats to both detox and nourish, you will see
what we mean! It’s spreadable, moisturizing and washes off like a milky body
cleanser, leaving your skin feeling amazingly soft and supple.

Makes approx. 100ml (31/2fl oz)

INGREDIENTS
10ml (2 tsp) Sucragel AOF
46ml (3 tbsp) sunflower oil
5g (1 tsp) oat flour or porridge oats
23g (3/4oz) kaolin
10ml (2 tsp) Lamesoft PO65
5ml (1 tsp) glycerine
7 drops cypress essential oil
5 drops fennel essential oil
8 drops juniper essential oil

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
plastic pipette
flat-bladed knife or palette knife

SAFE STORAGE
Ideally, the mud should be used straight away, but it will keep in a clean, sterilized jar in a
cool, dry place away from sunlight for up to 3 months.
Step 1
Measure the Sucragel into a beaker and the sunflower oil into a jug. Using the
pipette, add the oil to the Sucragel only a few drops at a time, to avoid the mix
splitting, and blend with a knife. Use all the oil, which will make a firm gel; it will
appear cloudy at first, but will become clear if left.
Step 2
If you are using porridge oats, these will need to be whizzed in a spice grinder or
blender to form a fine powder. You may need to whizz the oats a few times to get a
really fine, smooth powder. Add the oat flour to the kaolin clay in a bowl and mix to
combine well.
Step 3
Add the whizzed porridge oats and clay to the gel in the beaker, along with the
Lamesoft PO65, the glycerine and the cypress, fennel and juniper essential oils.
Use a metal spoon to mix well, until the mixture reaches the consistency of a
spreadable mud.

HOW TO APPLY
Apply to the body before showering, paying particular attention to areas of dry skin
such as the knees, elbows and feet. The mud will dissolve in water and leave the
skin feeling soft and moisturized.

Tip!
This recipe is a little more time-consuming than some of the others (although the
extra effort is more than worth it!), so you could always make double the amount to
save time at a later date.
◁Creamy Foot Scrub with Peppermint and
Pumice
This creamy scrub is ideal for exfoliating dead skin from the heels and feet,
while giving your feet a moisturizing treatment at the same time. The fresh
scent of peppermint, combined with lavender, cypress and lemon balm will
leave your feet fresh and restored, ready to slip into those revealing peep-toe
shoes or strappy sandals.

Makes approx. 100ml (31/2fl oz)

INGREDIENTS
3ml (1/2 tsp) glycerine
58ml (2fl oz) peppermint water
3g (1/2 tsp) cetearyl alcohol
5g (1 tsp) Olivem 1000
5g (1 tsp) unrefined coconut oil
10ml (2 tsp) sweet almond oil
6g (11/4 tsp) shea butter
8g (11/2 tsp) fine- to medium-grade pumice powder
5 drops lavender essential oil
5 drops cypress essential oil
5 drops lemon balm essential oil
40 drops grapefruit seed extract

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
heatproof jug
metal saucepan
thermometer
stick blender
 sterilized airtight glass jar and lid

SAFE STORAGE
Store in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 3 months.

Step 1
Measure all the ingredients except the pumice, essential oils and grapefruit seed
extract into a heatproof jug.

Step 2
Place the jug in a pan of simmering water and heat to 70–80°C (158–176°F).
Maintain this temperature for 30 minutes, then remove from the heat.

Step 3
Whizz the mixture with a stick blender, then leave to cool to around 40°C (104°F).
Add the pumice, essential oils and grapefruit seed extract, and stir to incorporate
the pumice evenly. Spoon into a sterilized airtight jar and secure the lid once
completely cool.

HOW TO APPLY
Massage the scrub into the feet, paying particular attention to the heels, toenails
and any areas which have hard skin. Rinse and dry the skin.
◁ Herbal Detox Tea
It’s easy to make your own herb-based teas using fresh ingredients from your
garden or windowbox, augmented with some dried botanical ingredients
from a supermarket, health-food store or online specialist (see Directory of
Suppliers). A tea infuser or glass teapot with an infusing compartment will
make you feel like a pro, but you can simply infuse your tea in an existing
teapot or jug and use a tea strainer or small sieve for the same results. Using
fresh mint leaves, especially peppermint, will greatly enhance the flavour and
aroma of your tea, as well as increasing the detoxifying and digestive
properties of the drink.

Makes approx. 2 cups

FRESH INGREDIENTS
few slices of root ginger
2 sprigs of peppermint or spearmint leaves, plus extra for the cup
optional: honey

DRY INGREDIENTS
15g (1 tbsp) loose-leaf gunpowder green tea
3g (1/2 tsp) chopped burdock root
5g (1 tsp) chopped liquorice root
2 or 3 pieces of star anise
1 cinnamon stick

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
kettle
teapot or jug
2 cups, mugs or tea glasses
optional: tea strainer
 SAFE STORAGE
The tea should be made fresh each time and consumed immediately.

Step 1
Pick your fresh ingredients, wash them if needed, then set aside.

Step 2
Measure out the dry ingredients into a bowl. You can make a larger amount and
store it in an airtight tin or glass jar with a lid for later use; always label your jar so
you know it is a tea mix.

Step 3
Place 1 or 2 teaspoons of the dry mix in a teapot or jug, along with the ginger and
mint. Pour over enough hot water for 2 cups; the water must be hot (but not
boiling) to avoid the green tea developing a harsh taste. Allow to infuse for 5 to 10
minutes before pouring into a cup or mug (through a strainer if you are not using
an infusing teapot). You can also use a tea glass, but remember to place a metal
spoon in the glass before pouring in the hot liquid to avoid cracking.

Step 4
Add a few more mint leaves to the cup. The amount of mint you use is optional,
depending on how minty you like your tea. You can also add a teaspoon of honey
to sweeten the tea, if you wish.

Tip!
The dry ingredients mix of this tea can be made and stored for up to 3 months.
This will make the teamaking process quicker. Store the mix in an airtight tin, or
glass jar with a secure lid.
Adaptation:
Camomile Tea Eye Pads

You may be fond of camomile tea, but you have probably never thought of using it as a
spa treatment. However, the beneficial, restorative qualities of herbal teas make them
ideal ingredients for eye pads or compresses, while camomile is soothing and calming to
the skin. Choose herbal teas from premium brands where the ingredients used are
bulkier whole leaves and flowers, as opposed to the fine powders which tend to be a
feature of the budget teas.

INGREDIENTS
camomile flower tea bags (such as teapigs)

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
cotton wool pads
Place a teabag in a cup or mug and pour over boiling water. Allow the tea to infuse and
cool for around 10 minutes.
Dip a couple of cotton wool pads into the tea so they are soaked, and squeeze out the
excess moisture. Check the pads are warm but not too hot.

SAFE STORAGE
The tea should be made fresh each time and used immediately.

HOW TO APPLY
Place the pads over closed eyes and lie back while the warming pads soothe and relax tired
eyes.
Adaptation:
Green Tea Eye Pads

Green tea is another wonderful herbal tea option for using as soothing eye pads. It is an
antioxidant and anti-inflammatory, which can offer anti-ageing benefits. The larger oval
cotton wool pads are our favourites for this recipe as their shape is better suited to use
around the eye area. We also like to use loose-grade green tea from specialist ethnic
stores and health-food shops. Make the tea in a teapot, leave it to infuse fully, and then
strain into a glass or mug to cool, as for the teabag option below.

INGREDIENTS
green tea bags (such as teapigs)

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
cotton wool pads
Place a teabag in a cup or mug and pour over boiling water. Allow the tea to infuse and
cool for around 10 minutes.
Dip a couple of cotton wool pads into the tea so they are soaked, and squeeze out the
excess moisture. Check the pads are warm but not too hot.

SAFE STORAGE
The tea should be made fresh each time and used immediately.

HOW TO APPLY
Place the pads over closed eyes and lie back while the warming pads soothe and relax tired
eyes.
◁ Purifying Incense Powder and Cones
The use of incense is centuries old and has its roots in many different parts of
the world, from the master incense-makers of Japan to the Spice Road in
India, the Christian churches in Europe and the origins of self-burning incense
from China. Often bound up with religious practices, incense has a mystical
quality and is believed by many to be a source of energy and capable of
creating a sacred space. It is cleansing and can help with meditation – and if
you really want to find a way to banish an unwelcome odour from your
home, incense is the way to do it.

Making your own incense is a really satisfying task. You can keep it simple and
assemble some wood powders, aromatics and herbs to make a loose
powder for burning on a charcoal disc. Or you can experiment with creating
specific blends which can be formed into cones and burned on their own,
with no need for the assistance of heat from charcoal. This allows you to
achieve a purer scent, which is entirely derived from the wood powder that
you have chosen and doesn’t have the familiar charcoal background odour.

As with our cosmetic recipes, your garden can be a source of inspiration for
incense-making materials. Anything you use will need to be dried completely
to allow it to burn, so it is a good idea to gather up leaves and even small
herb and flower stems which can be dried in your airing cupboard and used
later. Try some of the following ideas: scented pelargonium, lavender, cistus,
pine tree resin, viburnum, thyme, rosemary, oregano, marjoram, salvia, juniper,
peppermint. You could also raid your spice cupboard for cinnamon, clove,
nutmeg, star anise. Remember that these materials are only used in loose
incense (not cones) and must be ground to a powder prior to use.
Incense Powder
Loose incense is very simple to produce from a variety of dried materials and
can be assembled and burned straight away. You can use a combination of
the suggested ingredients below, or adapt the recipe to suit the materials that
you have, and have fun experimenting using your own ideas.

INGREDIENTS
The best materials for loose incense are gums such as frankincense, myrrh, pine and
rosin, available from online suppliers.You can also add powdered woods such as
cedarwood and sandalwood, and dried herbs like lavender, rosemary and thyme.
However, due to the heat of the charcoal, these botanical elements will tend to have
only a fleeting effect as the smell of the charcoal woods and gums can overwhelm more
delicate aromas.

5g (1 tsp) yellow sandalwood powder

5g (1 tsp) ground resin such as myrrh or frankincense
5g (1 tsp) dried botanical such as pelargonium or rosemary leaves
5g (1 tsp) spice powder such as cinnamon, allspice or nutmeg
15g (1 tbsp) makko
Mix all the ingredients together so they are well blended.

SAFE STORAGE
Store the powder in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. Keeps for up to 12 months.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
Step 1
Place a charcoal disc in a suitable incense burner placed on a heat-resistant
surface. Light the disc with a long match. Ensure that it is alight and leave to burn
until the disc has transformed from black to pale grey and is very hot. Do not touch
the disc.

Step 2
With a metal teaspoon, carefully place a small amount of the powder on the lit disc
and allow to burn. The aroma will gradually fill the room, although the powder will
burn quickly.
Incense Cones
Cone-making is simple, but it requires practice to achieve the right
consistency of wet material, combined with the correct tapered shape which
allows the cone to be lit and to burn evenly to the base. You will also need
to allow several days for the cones to dry, so if you are in a rush, try the
loose version first and plan to make the cones when you have more time.
Most shop-bought cone incense is made from unscented compressed
blanks which have been dipped in fragrance, often from a cheap source. For
this reason many people find incense unpleasant and overpowering. Making
your own using naturally scented, unrefined ingredients is a totally different
concept and immensely satisfying. The recipe here uses only natural plant
materials so that the wood powder itself gives the scent to the room when
burning.

Makes approx. 20

INGREDIENTS
18g (31/2 tsp) sandalwood powder, or other wood powder such as cedarwood
15g (1 tbsp) makko
1g (1/4 tsp) cellulose gum binder
approx. 25ml (5 tsp) water

SAFE STORAGE
Store the cones in a cool, dry place, away from sunlight. Keep for up to 12 months.
Step 1
Place the sandalwood powder, makko and binder into a bowl and mix together.
Add the water gradually until you have a slightly wet, pliable dough. Pinch off
around 1/4 tsp of the incense dough and start to form the cones in the palm of your
hand, by rolling the dough into a long cylindrical shape. You are aiming to get a
pointed top and a flat base, which is best achieved by placing the rolled cylinder on
a flat board or plate and pushing down gently so that it forms a stable base to the
cone. The cones should be smooth without lumps or cracks in the surface. If the
dough isn’t wet enough you will notice the cone develops cracks which will prevent
it from burning well, so if this is the case add more water to your mix and start
rolling again. You can also mould the cones with damp hands, adding water as you
roll them, which should enable you to smooth the surface as you go.
Step 2
Once you have rolled all the cones, place them on a plate to air-dry at ambient
room temperature. Ideally, place them on their plate inside a large plastic box and
cover with a lid for 24 hours, then remove the lid and let them dry naturally for 3
days. Resist the temptation to speed up the process by putting them somewhere
hot – this will affect their ability to burn well. They should be totally dry to the touch
and a lighter colour than when just made.

CONE-MAKING TIPS
• If you wish to incorporate essential oils to your cones, add just 4 or 5 drops
of your chosen oil at Step 1 along with the water. Essential oils are very
powerful so add just a few drops per batch.
• If you have trouble getting your cones to burn, they are probably not dry
enough. Leave them for another day or two and then try lighting them again.
• Many people don’t seem to be able to smell sandalwood well, so if you find
that your cones don’t appear to have a strong scent, try using cedarwood
 powder instead.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE

Step 1
To light a cone, place it on a suitable plate or other heatproof surface, as the cone
will leave a resin residue after burning which is difficult to remove. We use a
specific incense burner or a flat stone or pebble specifically reserved for incense.

Step 2
Light the tip of the cone and allow it to burn briefly. Generally the cone will self-
extinguish after a few seconds; if it doesn’t, blow out the small flame leaving a
burning tip which will immediately give off a trail of smoke. If the incense cone
stops burning altogether, try relighting it as sometimes it takes more than one go to
get the cone burning correctly. The incense will burn for around 10 minutes,
wafting the most amazing aroma around the room.
 Glossary of Ingredients

The following table includes all ingredients used in the book, their
INCI name, and their health and beauty benefits. The cosmetics
industry uses a common naming system known as the International
Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI). This means that the
same ingredient names, based on scientific names, are used
internationally, helping people to avoid the ingredients to which
they’re allergic.
KEY:
The symbols indicate where you will be able to buy the ingredients
featured in the recipes in this book:

CHEMIST (DRUGSTORE)

HEALTH-FOOD STORE
 INTERNET
SUPERMARKET OR SPECIALIST SHOP

COMMON NAME INCI (EU) NAME BENEFIT

ALGINATE POWDER SODIUM ALGINATE, A natural polysaccharide
DIATOMACEOUS EARTH, product extracted from brown
CALCIUM SULPHATE seaweed that grows in cold
water regions. In the presence
of calcium it sets to form a
rubbery gel, making it ideal as a
base for natural peel-off face
masks.
ALOE VERA JUICE ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF Great benefits in skin
JUICE protection and repair; its
soothing, cooling and healing
effects are well documented.
AMYRIS ESSENTIAL AMYRIS BALSAMIFERA BARK More commonly known as
OIL OIL West Indian Rosewood or
West Indian Sandalwood, and
can be used as a cheaper
alternative to genuine
sandalwood. Amyris essential oil
originates from Haiti and is
often used as a perfume
‘fixative’ to extend the fragrant
life of a blend due to its soft
resinous aroma. It is also
popular in aromatherapy for its
grounding and soothing
properties.
ARGAN OIL ARGANIA SPINOSA KERNEL Used for centuries by Berber
OIL women in Morocco to nourish
their skin, hair and nails. Argan
oil is exceptionally rich in
natural tocopherols, carotenes,
Squalane and essential fatty
acids.
BAOBAB OIL ADANSONIA DIGITATA SEED This exquisite oil is cold-pressed
OIL from the seeds of the baobab
fruit tree, known in Africa as
the Tree of Life. The oil helps to
 improve moisture in hair and
skin, stimulates the skin’s
recovery from external stresses,
and enhances healing from
within (hair and skin), instantly
relieving dry, cracked skin. A
natural source of vitamins A, D
and E and Omega 3, 6 and 9
fatty acids.
BEESWAX WHITE CERA ALBA The wax obtained from the
BP honeycomb created by bees. It
forms a protective barrier on
the skin’s surface, providing a
shield against irritants while
allowing the skin to breathe.
BENZOIN BENZOIN A solvent extracted from resin
of the Styrax benzoin tree that
grows in Java, Sumatra and
Thailand. It has a sweet, warm,
vanilla-like aroma and has a
calming and uplifting effect.
Benzoin, also known as gum
Benjamin, is one of the classic
ingredients of incense and is
also used as a fixative in the
perfume industry.
BERGAMOT CITRUS AURANTIUM The bergamot tree is common
ESSENTIAL OIL BERGAMIA FRUIT OIL to South East Asia and also Italy.
* must be bergatene/psoralen Bergamot oil is extracted from
free * the rind of both ripe and unripe
fruit by expression. The scent of
the oil is basically citrus, yet
fruity and sweet, and is used in
aromatherapy for its uplifting
effect. Bergamot oil often
contains bergatene, which is
sensitizing in the presence of
sunlight, which is why the
bergatene-free oil is
recommended.
BURDOCK ROOT ARCTIUM LAPPA ROOT A long tradition of use for its
EXTRACT detoxifying and purifying health
benefits. It can be found in
 supplement form or be eaten
as a vegetable, and can also be
made into a tea.
CAMOMILE TEA CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA Camomile extract is renowned
FLOWER EXTRACT for many skincare benefits,
including soothing and calming,
plus radiance and brightening.
CEDARWOOD JUNIPERUS ASHEI OIL Obtained from wood chips and
ESSENTIAL OIL sawdust of the North American
cedar tree through steam
distillation. It has a soft, clean,
woody aroma and is known for
its astringent properties, being
beneficial for oily skin, acne and
dandruff. It is also good for
respiratory disorders.
CEDARWOOD JUNIPERUS VIRGINIANA Cedarwood comes from
POWDER several different trees known as
cedars that grow in different
parts of the world, and that
have many uses from pencils to
ship building.This red
cedarwood powder is mixed
from all parts of the tree and
has a richer, more complex and
uplifting scent and is ideal as a
pure incense.
CELLULOSE GUM CELLULOSE GUM Also known as carboxymethyl
cellulose, this is a derivative of
natural cellulose found in plant
material such as wood and
cotton. Cellulose is the most
abundant organic polymer on
earth. Cellulose gum is often
used as a natural thickener and
stabilizer for shampoos, creams
and lotions.
CETEARYL CETEARYL ALCOHOL A mixture of fatty alcohols
ALCOHOL (cetyl and stearyl) derived from
palm oil that takes the form of
white flakes and is used as a co-
emulsifier, emollient and
 thickener for creams and
lotions.
CETYL ALCOHOL CETYL ALCOHOL A fatty alcohol derived from
palm oil that takes the form of
white flakes and is used as a co-
emulsifier, emollient and
thickener for creams and
lotions.
CHINESE CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF A classic green tea from China,
GUNPOWDER made up of leaves hand-rolled
GREEN TEA LEAVES into tiny pellets that resemble
gunpowder, giving this tea its
distinct name. Gunpowder tea
is full-bodied with a hint of
smokiness, and when blended
with spearmint creates the
famous ‘Moroccan Mint’ tea.
CINNAMON LEAF CINNAMOMUM This warm, spicy oil is
ESSENTIAL OIL CULILAWAN LEAF OIL renowned for its distinctive
aroma and antimicrobial
properties.
CINNAMON STICKS CINNAMOMUM VERUM Rolled from the aromatic, spicy
bark of tropical East Indian
cinnamon trees.
CITRIC ACID CITRIC ACID A pH modifier.

COCO-GLUCOSIDE COCO-GLUCOSIDE A mild, non-ionic, naturally

derived and biodegradable
surfactant. Recommended to
create very mild and sulphate-
free surfactant systems with
good foam.
COCONUT OIL, COCOS NUCIFERA OIL This tropical oil has so many
UNREFINED uses for skin and hair. Rich in
fatty acids, triglycerides and
natural tocopherol, it has
excellent protective and
moisturizing properties.
CORN STARCH ZEA MAYS This fine powder is often used
as a natural thickener or
cosmetic powder base,
 imparting a smooth feel to the
skin.
CRYSTAL CLEAR GLYCERIN, AQUA, SORBITOL, This vegetable-based, melt-and-
MELT AND POUR SODIUM STEARATE, SODIUM pour soap base is made from
SOAP BASE OLEATE, SODIUM LAURATE 99 per cent natural ingredients
and is free from surfactants. It
produces natural translucent
soap bars with good
moisturizing properties due to
its very high glycerine content,
which also provides a pleasant
skin feel.
CUCUMBER CUCUMIS SATIVUS FRUIT Renowned for its cooling and
EXTRACT soothing effect on the skin.

CYPRESS ESSENTIAL CUPRESSUS SEMPERVIRENS This aromatic oil is obtained by

OIL OIL distilling the small branches and
leaves with steam. It is a venous
decongestant, vasoconstrictor
and has healing properties,
particularly in the case of
varicose veins.
DEMINERALIZED / AQUA A carrier, solvent and hydrator.
DEIONIZED WATER

DISTILLED WITCH ALCOHOL DENAT; A renowned natural astringent,

HAZEL BPC HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA skin toner and skin refresher.
BARK/LEAF/TWIG EXTRACT

DRIED SEAWEED SPIRULINA MAXIMA A well-known type of

POWDER POWDER blue/green algae that can be
found in the world’s oceans and
lakes. The vitamin-rich dried
spirulina powder has
antioxidant and detoxifying
benefits for the skin.
EPSOM SALTS MAGNESIUM SULPHATE This amazing mineral has so
many benefits. Easily absorbed
by the skin, it helps to soothe
and relax the body, relieve
aches and ease muscular pains.
ESP ORGANIC SAFE- ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF A unique combination of aloe
EMULS SCA JUICE; SUCROSE COCOATE vera extract with a natural
emulsifier derived from coconut
oil and sugar that has
exceptional skin-softening
properties, leaving it with a
unique velvety feel. It enables oil
and water to combine easily to
form a stable cream.
EUCALYPTUS EUCALYPTUS GLOBULUS This aromatic oil obtained from
ESSENTIAL OIL LEAF OIL the leaves of the tree is anti-
inflammatory, antimicrobial and
has stimulating properties.
EVENING PRIMROSE OENOTHERA BIENNIS OIL This nutritious emollient plant
OIL oil is rich in essential fatty acids
(EFAs) and gamma linoleic acid
(GLA), which help to maintain
the moisture barrier of the skin.
It is ideal to help soothe and
protect dry skin.
FENNEL ESSENTIAL FOENICULUM VULGARE OIL This aromatic oil distilled from
OIL the seeds of the plant has
antimicrobial properties and is
also helpful against cellulite.
FORMULATORS’ ALCOHOL DENAT; A special solvent/carrier blend
ALCOHOL ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE; based on alcohol, which allows
PROPYLENE GLYCOL the simple addition and
blending of essential oils and
fragrances to produce clear
solutions.The volatile alcohol
evaporates quickly as it is
warmed by skin temperature to
deposit the fragrance evenly,
and gives a cooling sensation. It
is also ideal for making diffuser
oils.
FRACTIONATED CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC A fine emollient extracted from
COCONUT OIL TRIGLYCERIDE coconut oil that gives a light but
silky skin feel without greasiness.

FRANKINCENSE BOSWELLIA CARTERII OIL Olibanum, also known as

ESSENTIAL OIL frankincense, is extracted from
the tree resin and is known for
 its anti-ageing and skin-toning
properties.
GERANIUM PELARGONIUM This aromatic oil with its
ESSENTIAL OIL GRAVEOLENS FLOWER OIL characteristic floral odour
makes it ideal for skincare
fragrancing. It also has
antimicrobial and astringent
properties, making it beneficial
for natural deodorants.
GINGER ESSENTIAL ZINGIBER OFFICINALE ROOT Extracted by steam distillation
OIL OIL of the dried root. This warming
essential oil has a strong, spicy,
sharp aroma with a hint of
lemon and pepper, and when
topically applied it can relieve
muscle aches and pains and
poor circulation.
GINGER ROOT ZINGIBER OFFICINALE Common to India and China,
this has many therapeutic
properties, including relief from
nausea and digestive problems,
and is well known as a remedy
for travel sickness. As a home
remedy, it can be made into
herbal tea to ease gut
inflammation, boost liver health
and to ward off colds, flu and
sore throats.
GLYCERINE GLYCERIN A highly effective humectant
derived from palm oil that helps
to maintain the moisture
balance of skin and hydrate
parched skin. It is one of the
oldest and most respected
moisturizers.
GRAPEFRUIT CITRUS GRANDIS PEEL OIL A zesty, refreshing aromatic oil
ESSENTIAL OIL extracted from the fruit peel. It
has excellent cleansing
properties and is ideal for oily
skin.
GRAPESEED OIL VITIS VINIFERA SEED OIL Has a very light skin feel, is
easily absorbed and helps to
 reduce water loss.
GREEN CLAY ILLITE French green clay has long been
known for its detoxifying
skincare benefits that can be
attributed to its unique mineral
composition. It helps to absorb
skin impurities and is mostly
recommended for oily, clogged
or acneic skin.
GREEN TEA CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF Infusions of tea contain
EXTRACT polyphenols that have
antioxidant and anti-
inflammatory properties,
protecting the skin against
damage that can be caused by
free radicals. Also offers anti-
ageing properties.
GROUND PUMICE PUMICE These hard grains of volcanic
rock make an ideal exfoliant for
removing rough skin from busy,
tired feet.
HOP ESSENTIAL OIL HUMULUS LUPULUS OIL Famous throughout the world
for flavouring beers, yet steam
distillation of the flowers,
known as cones or strobiles,
yields a beneficial essential oil.
The aroma is fresh and sweet
with a sharp earthy and
herbaceous aroma. It has
sedative properties, hence its
use in treatment for insomnia
or sleeplessness. It is also
beneficial for skin problems
such as eczema, and improves
the health of hair.
INCA INCHI OIL PLUKENETIA VOLUBILIS SEED This nourishing oil is a natural
OIL legacy from the ancient
civilizations of Peru (the Incas),
which has been carefully
guarded until recently, and is
extremely rich in Omega 3, 6
and 9 fatty acids. It is shown to
be ideal for sensitive, damaged
 and dry skin and to have skin
regenerative properties.
JASMINE ESSENTIAL JASMINUM OFFICINALE OIL Originally from China and India,
OIL jasmine tea is a traditional
Chinese drink. Solvent
extraction of jasmine flowers
produces a ‘concrete’ from
which an ‘absolute’ is obtained
by separation with alcohol. The
essential oil is then produced
off the absolute by steam
distillation, and has a sweet,
exotic and richly floral aroma
with calming and soothing
properties.
JUNIPER ESSENTIAL JUNIPERUS COMMUNIS This aromatic oil is obtained
OIL FRUIT OIL from the needles, wood and
fruit of the shrub. It has
excellent antimicrobial and
astringent properties.
KAOLIN KAOLIN A soft white clay, commonly
referred to as ‘China clay’,
named after the hill in China
(Kao-Lin) from which it was
mined for centuries. It helps to
draw impurities and toxins from
the skin.
LABDANUM CISTUS LADANIFERUS LEAF Steam-distilled from the crude
ESSENTIAL OIL OIL gum obtained from the twigs of
the Cistus ladaniferus shrub, or
rockrose, that grows in
southern Europe. It has a warm,
sweet, herbaceous and musky
scent, and has antiseptic and
astringent properties. It is
excellent for use in creams for
mature skin to help to optimize
a healthy complexion.
LAMESOFT PO65 AQUA; CITRIC ACID; COCO- Naturally derived from coconut
GLUCOSIDE; GLYCERYL oil and sunflower oil, it has
OLEATE; HYDROGENATED positive moisturizing effects on
PALM GLYCERIDES CITRATE; the skin in surfactant/foaming
TOCOPHEROL cleansers.
LAVENDER LAVANDULA ANGUSTIFOLIA This multi-tasking aromatic oil
ESSENTIAL OIL OIL has many skincare benefits due
to its unique soothing and
antimicrobial properties. It is
also renowned for its relaxing
fragrance and is ideal for night-
time use.
LAVENDER LAVANDULA ANGUSTIFOLIA In Roman times the flowers
FLOWERS were added to baths, which is
where lavender gets its name
(lavare means ‘to wash’). The
fragrant dried flowers give a
pleasing visual texture and
delicate fragrance to bath
powders and body scrubs.
LAVENDER WATER LAVANDULA ANGUSTIFOLIA The condensation biproduct
FLOWER WATER from steam distillation of the
essential oil. It has a delicate
floral, herbaceous aroma and is
an excellent tonic for the skin.
Its calming and antimicrobial
properties make it ideal for mild
acne and for naturally cleansing
the pores.
LEMON BALM MELISSA OFFICINALIS LEAF Steam-distilled from the melissa
ESSENTIAL OIL OIL leaves and tops of the
herbaceous plant, the warm
and lemony aroma has calming
and uplifting benefits. It also has
antimicrobial properties and is
excellent for refreshing tired
and troubled skin.
LEMON ESSENTIAL CITRUS LIMON PEEL OIL This fresh citrus aromatic oil
OIL helps to brighten and
rejuvenate sagging or tired-
looking skin. Its antimicrobial
properties help to treat various
skin disorders such as acne, and
it is also recommended for
reducing excessive oil on the
skin. Also effective in hair tonics
to help promote strong, healthy
 and shiny hair and eliminate
dandruff.
LEMONGRASS CYMBOPOGON This characteristic lemony
ESSENTIAL OIL SCHOENANTHUS OIL essential oil contributes to the
fragrance of the product and
has a mild deodorizing effect.
LIME ESSENTIAL OIL CITRUS AURANTIFOLIA OIL This mouth-watering citrus peel
oil has antimicrobial properties
and helps to fight acne and
dandruff.
LIME POWDER CITRUS AURANTIFOLIA PEEL This fine zesty powder is made
by grinding dehydrated lime
peel. It offers gentle exfoliation
and contains plant acids that
help to cleanse and brighten
the skin and even the skin tone.
LIQUORICE ROOT ARCTIUM LAPPA ROOT Liquorice has been used for
EXTRACT many thousands of years to
treat skin ailments. The root
extract is renowned for its skin-
soothing and skin-lightening
properties.
LOOFAH LUFFA CYLINDRICA FRUIT From the plant L.aegyptiaca, a
member of the cucumber
family. The fruit is allowed to
fully mature and ripen, then dry
out on the vine. The flesh then
disappears, leaving only the
fibrous skeleton and seeds,
which can be easily shaken out
to give the loofah that we know
and use as a body scrub.
MAKKO MACHILUS THUNBERGII Makko or ‘Tabu no ki’ is the
BARK bark of the Machilus Thunbergii
tree, cultivated mainly in South
East Asia from Kyushu to China,
Taiwan and Thailand. The bark
is ground up and added to
incense mixtures as a natural
binder for making incense cones
and sticks, and was first used as
a replacement for sandalwood.
MANDARIN CITRUS NOBILIS PEEL OIL Extracted from the peel of the
ESSENTIAL OIL fruit by cold expression. It has a
sweet and tangy aroma and
complements other citrus notes
for a refreshing effect. It is
sometimes used to help to
prevent stretch marks, while
increasing circulation and
reducing fluid retention.
MARJORAM ORIGANUM MAJORANA Extracted from freshly dried
ESSENTIAL OIL LEAF OIL leaves and flowering tops of the
Mediterranean bushy herb by
steam distillation. It has a warm,
slightly spicy smell, and has
calming, warming and relaxing
properties, making it ideal for
bath soaks to ease tired
muscles.
MATCHA GREEN CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF A stone-ground powdered
TEA POWDER green tea used in traditional
Japanese tea ceremonies. It
contains small amounts of
vitamins and minerals, but is
most prized for being rich in the
antioxidant polyphenol
compounds catechins. Because
matcha is made from ground
whole tea leaves, it is a more
potent source of catechins than
standard green tea.
MEADOWFOAM LIMNANTHES ALBA SEED A natural oil pressed from the
OIL OIL seeds of white meadowfoam
flowers, native to California,
Oregon and British
Columbia.The oil has a unique
blend of fatty acids that gives it
superior moisturizing and
conditioning properties.
MELISSA WATER MELISSA OFFICINALIS The condensation biproduct
FLOWER/LEAF/STEM WATER from steam distillation of the
essential oil. Melissa water is an
astringent and an ideal toner,
tightening and awakening dull,
 sluggish skin while providing
calming relief to the senses.
MINT MENTHA PIPERITA LEAF The condensation biproduct
WATER/PEPPERMINT WATER from steam distillation of the
WATER essential oil. This natural toner
helps to keep your skin oil-free
and fresh. It also helps to even
skin tone and reduce puffiness
around the eyes.
NEROLI ESSENTIAL CITRUS AURANTIUM AMARA This uplifting essential oil from
OIL OIL orange flowers can be used as a
body perfume, and due to its
potent antimicrobial properties
is also beneficial for skincare.
OAT FLOUR AVENA SATIVA A fine powder of ground oats
that helps to smooth and
exfoliate the skin.
OLIVE OIL OLEA EUROPAEA FRUIT OIL Obtained from the ripe fruit of
the olive tree. It consists
primarily of the glycerides of
linoleic, oleic and palmitic fatty
acids and is reputed to help skin
cell regeneration.
OLIVEM 1000 CETEARYL OLIVATE; A natural ‘PEG-free’ emulsifier
SORBITAN OLIVATE derived from olive oil that is
easy to use and also has skin
moisturizing benefits.
ORANGE CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS This essential oil is obtained
ESSENTIAL OIL, PEEL OIL from the peel of orange. It has
SWEET a popular aroma and creates a
happy, uplifted mood. It also has
antimicrobial and cleansing
properties and helps to
brighten the skin.
ORANGEFLOWER CITRUS AURANTIUM AMARA Water produced from the
WATER FLOWER DISTILLATE distillation of orangeflower
petals. This delicately fragrant
water helps to soothe and
refresh the skin.
PALMAROSA CYMBOPOGON MARTINI This particular essential oil is
ESSENTIAL OIL OIL popular in aromatherapy, as it
 has excellent skincare
properties and a sweet uplifting
rose-like odour. The oil is
steam-distilled from the dry
grass just before the flowers
appear.
PEARL BARLEY HORDEUM VULGARE Pearl barley, or pearled barley, is
barley that has been processed
to remove its hull and bran, and
it makes an ideal alternative to
wheat for microwaveable ‘hot
packs’.
PEPPERMINT MENTHA PIPERITA OIL Contains menthol, which
ESSENTIAL OIL creates a cooling sensation that
refreshes tired skin. It is also
beneficial for oily skin. It is an
excellent oil for rejuvenating the
hair follicles, stimulating the
scalp and promoting hair
growth.
PEPPERMINT LEAVES MENTHA PIPERITA LEAF Peppermint is native to Europe
and is a cross between water
mint and spearmint. Peppermint
tea is delicious and refreshing
and offers many benefits,
including improving digestion,
reducing inflammation and
relaxing the body and mind.
PEPPERMINT WATER MENTHA PIPERITA WATER See ‘Mint Water’.

PETITGRAIN CITRUS AURANTIUM AMARA Extracted from the fresh leaves

ESSENTIAL OIL LEAF/TWIG OIL and young and tender twigs of
the orange tree through steam
distillation. It is a popular
perfumery ingredient, having an
uplifting aroma, and is useful for
deodorizing and skin infections
due to its antimicrobial
properties.
PLANTAPON LGC SODIUM LAURYL GLUCOSE A mild ‘green’ liquid surfactant
CARBOXYLATE (AND) blend which can be used to
LAURYL GLUCOSIDE make up a base for foaming
 cleansing products such as
shower gels, body washes, face
washes, etc.
POLYSORBATE 20 POLYSORBATE 20 A solubilizer/emulsifier derived
from sugar that enables the
essential oils/oils/fragrance to
mix in with an aqueous base.
POMEGRANATE OIL PUNICA GRANATUM OIL Contains ‘punicic acid’, a unique
Omega 5 fatty acid, which has
strong anti-inflammatory
properties. The oil helps to
fend off free radicals keeping
skin ageing at bay. It also
provides skin regenerative
properties and helps to protect
against sun damage.
PORRIDGE OATS AVENA SATIVA Oats have many benefits for all
skin types. They are very
effective in addressing dry skin
as they contain beta-glucan,
which forms a fine protective
film and penetrates to provide
deep moisturization. They also
have anti-inflammatory
properties that are effective in
healing dry and itchy skin. Oat
flour will absorb and remove
excess oil and bacteria from
your skin and exfoliate dead
skin cells, thus helping to
combat acne.
PRESERVATIVE GSE CITRUS GRANDIS EXTRACT A bioflavonoid concentrate
(GRAPEFRUIT SEED prepared from the seeds, pulp
EXTRACT) and white membranes of
grapefruits. It is used as a broad
spectrum, non-toxic,
antimicrobial compound.
PUMICE POWDER PUMICE The solidified lava from
volcanoes. This natural material
is commonly used in its raw
state for smoothing rough skin
on hands and feet.
RAPESEED OIL BRASSICA CAMPESTRIS SEED Rapeseed, or canola, oil is
OIL extracted from the seeds of
yellow flowering rape plants
and has excellent emollient and
protective properties for dry
skin. Cold-pressed rapeseed is a
natural source of vitamin E, a
strong antioxidant which
protects against free radicals
that can damage and age the
skin.
RICE BRAN OIL ORYZA SATIVA BRAN OIL An excellent natural, non-greasy
emollient and moisturizer. It is
rich in antioxidant vitamin E and
gamma-oryzanol, protecting
against free radicals and skin
dryness.
RICE GRAIN ORYZA SATIVA Rice is the seed of the grass
species Oryza sativa. This cereal
grain is the most widely
consumed staple food for a
large part of the world’s
population, but it also makes an
ideal alternative to wheat for
microwaveable ‘hot packs’.
ROSE GERANIUM PELARGONIUM This sweet and rosy essential oil
ESSENTIAL OIL GRAVEOLENS FLOWER OIL is steam-distilled from geranium
flowers, and occasionally leaves
and stalks. It is often used in
aromatherapy for its uplifting
and balancing properties.
ROSEHIP OIL ROSA CANINA FRUIT OIL Rich in Omega 3 and 6, vitamin
A and antioxidant tocopherols,
this helps to protect, repair and
restore the skin and maintain
moisture balance.
ROSEWATER ROSA DAMASCENA The condensation biproduct
FLOWER WATER from steam distillation of the
essential oil. It adds a delicate
fragrance to products and is an
ideal toner for soothing irritated
skin due to its anti-
inflammatory properties.
ROSEMARY ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS Regular use of rosemary oil
ESSENTIAL OIL LEAF OIL helps to stimulate follicles,
nourishes the scalp and
removes dandruff. It is also
believed that rosemary oil slows
down premature hair loss and
greying of the hair. It has
antimicrobial properties and
can help to tone the skin.
SANDALWOOD SANTALUM ALBUM OIL An essential oil obtained from
ESSENTIAL OIL the steam distillation of chips
and billets cut from the
heartwood of the sandalwood
tree. The oil is known for its
exotic, woody, sweet smell and
is frequently used as a base for
products such as incense and
perfumes. It is also used in
aromatherapy for its various
benefits, including calming and
harmonizing, and has
antimicrobial properties.
SANDALWOOD SANTALUM ALBUM or Indian Sandalwood has always had
POWDER sandalwood SANTALUM strong links with many of the
SPICATUM or Australian world’s spiritual groups, and the
Sandalwood powder can be burnt to
produce a distinctive relaxing
and meditative scent, and is
commonly used in incense
cones.
SEAWEED FUCUS SERRATUS This olive-brown shrubby
(SERRATED WRACK) seaweed contains natural
antioxidant compounds that
have long been known to have
pronounced anti-ageing, skin
conditioning, repairing and
hydrating effects.
SHEA BUTTER BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII Has a unique fatty acid profile,
BUTTER such that it readily melts at
body temperature, thus making
it an ideal emollient for skin. It
has a high content of
unsaponifiables and is also a
 natural source of allantoin,
which combined yield soothing
and protective properties.
SODIUM SODIUM BICARBONATE The natural mineral form of
BICARBONATE sodium bicarbonate is nahcolite.
(BAKING SODA) It is often found dissolved in
mineral springs and can be used
in natural cosmetic products to
smooth the skin, cleanse and as
a deodorant. The ‘fizz’
generated by a bath bomb is
when this material combines
with citric acid in the presence
of water.
SPEARMINT MENTHA SPICATA HERB OIL Extracted by steam distillation
ESSENTIAL OIL of the flowering tops of the
spearmint plant. It doesn’t
contain as much menthol as
peppermint, and as such is not
as cooling, but it does have
antimicrobial properties.
SPEARMINT LEAVES MENTHA SPICATA LEAF Spearmint is a herbaceous
perennial plant whose leaves
contain many of the active
ingredients and a high
concentration of the scent and
flavour. Its benefits are similar to
that of peppermint but it has a
sweeter taste.
SPRING WATER AQUA A natural source of water,
containing minerals and trace
elements to help to rehydrate
the skin.
SQUALANE SQUALANE A fine, light and non-greasy
emollient derived from olive oil
that gives the skin an amazingly
soft feel and a natural bloom.
STAR ANISE ILLICIUM VERUM A spice that closely resembles
anise in flavour, obtained from
the seeds of the star-shaped
fruits that grow on the
 evergreen star anise tree,
Illicium verum.
STEVIA STEVIA REBAUDIANA A sweetener and sugar
LEAF/STEM POWDER substitute extracted from the
leaves of the plant species
Stevia rebaudiana. Known as the
sweet honey leaf of Paraguay,
the leaves have been used
traditionally for hundreds of
years in both Brazil and
Paraguay to sweeten local teas
and medicines. The active
compounds of stevia are steviol
glycosides (mainly stevioside
and rebaudioside), which have
up to 150 times the sweetness
of sugar.
SUCRAGEL AOF AQUA; GLYCERIN; PRUNUS This unique natural emulsifying
AMYGDALUS DULCIS OIL; blend combines plant sugars,
SUCROSE LAURATE coconut palm and sweet
almond oils. It is kind to delicate
and dry skin and leaves it feeling
ultra-soft and conditioned.
SUCRAGEL CF AQUA; CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC This unique natural emulsifier
TRIGLYCERIDE; GLYCERIN; blend derived from plant sugars
SUCROSE LAURATE and coconut palm oils is gentle
to the skin and leaves it with an
ultra-soft conditioned feel.
SUNFLOWER OIL HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED Sunflower oil is cold-pressed
OIL from sunflower seeds and is
light and non-greasy. It is
beneficial to the skin, helping to
reduce moisture loss and
support the skin’s barrier
function.
SWEET ALMOND PRUNUS AMYGDALUS Protects and softens the skin. It
OIL DULCIS OIL is rich in essential fatty acids and
vitamin E.

THYME ESSENTIAL THYMUS VULGARIS OIL This aromatic oil is extracted

OIL through steam distillation of
fresh flowers and leaves. It has
medicinal and antimicrobial
 properties and is effective
against insect stings and bites.
VEGETABLE AGAR AGAR; Vegetable alternatives to the
GELATINE POWDER CARRAGEENAN; PECTIN; traditional animal gelatine,
XANTHAN GUM; GUAR; providing the ‘jelly-like’ texture
LOCUST BEAN GUM that is ideal for refreshing face
masks.
VITAMIN C ASCORBIC ACID Pure vitamin C is renowned for
its potent antioxidant
properties. It helps to brighten
the skin, reducing the
appearance of age spots and
other types of sun damage, and
also boosts healthy collagen
production.
VITAMIN E TOCOPHEROL Found widely throughout
nature, particularly in
wheatgerm oil. It is an effective
antioxidant and free radical
scavenger, so helps to protect
the skin from environmental
damage. It has also been found
to be beneficial in scar
reduction and wound healing.
WHEATGERM OIL TRITICUM VULGARE GERM Readily absorbed by the skin,
OIL delivering a healthy infusion of
vitamins, antioxidants, fatty acids
and phytosterols. These
nutrients help to moisturize and
heal dry or cracked skin, and
also help to prevent scarring. In
particular, wheatgerm oil is a
rich source of vitamin E, which
helps to reduce skin damage,
fight free radicals, support
healthy collagen formation and
maintain even skin tone.
XANTHAN GUM XANTHAN GUM Thickener/stabilizer naturally
derived from corn sugar
through a bio-fermentation
process. Commonly used in
foods.
YLANG YLANG CANANGA ODORATA This uplifting essential oil is
ESSENTIAL OIL FLOWER OIL extracted by steam distillation
of the fresh flowers of the ylang
ylang tree. It can help to
maintain moisture and oil
balance in the skin, keeping it
hydrated and smooth, but is
mostly used for its exotic
fragrance.
Directory of Suppliers

UK
ABSOLUTE AROMAS
absolute-aromas.com
Specialist online supplier, with an extensive collection of essential oils. Also sells
carrier oils.
Ships internationally

AMPULLA
ampulla.co.uk
Online packaging supplier, selling glass, plastic and aluminium containers for
cosmetics and food.
Offers an excellent selection, with pricing from a single item to bulk quantities.
Also has a European site: ampulla.eu

AROMANTIC
aromantic.co.uk
Online supplier of cosmetic ingredients, containers and kits. Also offers skincare
and cosmetic courses in Scotland (where the company is based) and London.
Ships internationally

G. BALDWIN AND CO
baldwins.co.uk
171/173 Walworth Road, London, SE17 1RW
Retail store and online supplier of herbs, vitamins and supplements, as well as
incense materials and burners. Also offers skincare courses in London.
Ships internationally

CANDLE SHACK
candle-shack.co.uk
Online supplier of candle-making equipment.

COMPAK SOUTH
compaksouth.com
Online supplier of glass containers. Specializing in food containers, but also sells
clip-top jars, smaller bottles and jars, and closures for cosmetics, as well as a few
plastic items.
GRACEFRUIT
gracefruit.com
Online supplier of cosmetic ingredients. Also stocks packaging, fragrances and
flavours, and bases.
Ships to Europe

HAYES AND FINCH

www.candlewick-supplies.com
Suppliers of candle wax, candle wicks, cores and sustainers. Helpful website with
tips on how to make and use candles.

HOLISTIC SHOP
holisticshop.co.uk
Online supplier of incense materials, herbs and supplements.

HOLLAND AND BARRETT

hollandandbarrett.com
Large chain of local health-food stores, located in most large towns in the UK.
Sells food ingredients, including nuts, seeds and cereals, as well as essential oils,
vitamins and supplements.

INCENSE SHOP
www.incense-shop.co.uk
Suppliers of blended incense and ingredients.

MISTRALNI
www.mistralni.co.uk
Supplier of formulators’ alcohol.

NATURALLY THINKING
naturallythinking.com
Supplier of cosmetic raw materials.

PELL WALL
www.pellwall.com
Supplier of perfumery raw materials.

THE SOAP KITCHEN

thesoapkitchen.co.uk
Online supplier of a wide range of cosmetic ingredients, starter kits, and bath
bomb and soap moulds. Also offers courses in making soaps, creams and bath
bombs, as well as general technical advice.
Ships to Europe

USA
BRAMBLEBERRY
brambleberry.com
Online supplier of soap-making and other cosmetic ingredients, essential oils,
moulds and packaging. Offers courses in soap-making.
Ships internationally

CANDLEWIC
www.candlewic.com
Suppliers of candle wax, wicks, moulds, as well as soap-making ingredients.

THE CHEMISTRY STORE

chemistrystore.com
Online supplier of soap-making and other cosmetic ingredients, equipment and
packaging.
Ships internationally

FROM NATURE WITH LOVE

fromnaturewithlove.com
Online supplier of cosmetic ingredients, equipment, packaging and books.
Ships internationally

THE HERBARIE
theherbarie.com
Online supplier of cosmetic ingredients, packaging and books.
Ships to North America

MAKING COSMETICS
makingcosmetics.com
Online supplier of cosmetic ingredients, vitamins, fragrances, equipment,
packaging and books.
Ships internationally

SCENTS OF EARTH
www.scents-of-earth.com
Suppliers of incense resins, herbs and woods, as well as incense mixtures.
Ships internationally
Australia and New Zealand
NEW DIRECTIONS
newdirections.com.au
Online supplier of essential oils, herbal extracts, cosmetic ingredients,
cosmeceuticals, equipment, packaging; also stocks Australian specialities, listed
as native botanical skincare.
Ships internationally

SOAP NATCH
soapnaturally.org
Online supplier of ingredients, particularly for soap-making, but also for cosmetics;
also stocks moulds and stamps.
Ships internationally

Europe
AROMA ZONE
www.aroma-zone.com
French online supplier of cosmetic ingredients, natural extracts and essential oils,
as well as packaging.

DRAGONSPICE
dragonspice.de
German online health-food supplier with some cosmetic ingredients.

HELENA COSMETICA
www.helenacosmetica.nl
Dutch supplier of cosmetic and perfumery raw materials.

JABONARIUM
jabonariumshop.com
Spanish online supplier of cosmetic ingredients, essential oils, fragrances and
packaging.

JEAN PUETZ
www.jean-puetz-produkte.de
German online shop for cosmetic, perfumery and soap-making materials.

MANSKE
manske-shop.com
German online supplier of cosmetic ingredients, essential oils and equipment.

URTEGAARDEN
www.urtegaarden.dk
Online supplier of cosmetic raw materials in Denmark. Also offers recipes and
courses.
Acknowledgements
We would like to thank everyone at Jacqui Small for asking us to write a follow-up
to Handmade Beauty, and to the amazing job they have done in sending our
previous book all over the world. We are truly amazed at how far it has travelled,
and the way that so many people in other countries have taken to making our
recipes and telling us about them.
Our special thanks go to our lovely editor Rachel Malig with her all-important eye
for detail, as well as Amanda Heywood for once again producing such fabulous
images that leap out from the page and make you really want to make the recipes.
Thanks are also due to Caroline Davis who works such magic with everything she
touches. It goes without saying that we couldn’t do this without you all!

Juliette: Thanks once again to Abi for her exceptional knowledge of cosmetic
products and in particular for her tireless work on the glossary. Thanks to James
Debnam for his help with the scented candles, and to Anny Evason, Julia Fogg
and Barbara Fredriksson for their incense material foraging. Thanks to all those
who bought Handmade Beauty and whose enthusiasm for it encouraged us to
work on another book.
Abi: Many thanks to Juliette for her continued enthusiasm and energy throughout
the project, and I echo my thanks to all who purchased our first book, Handmade
Beauty. A special thanks to my late partner Anthony for his encouragement and
support at the start of this book, and who sadly will not see it completed, and also
thanks to my new canine friend Santa for his cheerful distraction.
Design, layout and photography copyright © 2018 Quarto Publishing Group plc
Text copyright © Juliette Goggin and Abi Righton

First published in 2018 by Jacqui Small

an imprint of The Quarto Group
The Old Brewery, 6 Blundell Street
London N7 9BH, United Kingdom
T (0)20 7700 6700 F (0)20 7700 8066
www.QuartoKnows.com

The authors’ moral rights have been asserted.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval
system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, electrostatic,
magnetic tape, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior
permission in writing from the publisher.

Publisher: Jacqui Small

Senior Commissioning Editor: Eszter Karpati
Managing Editor: Emma Heyworth-Dunn
Design and Art Direction: Rachel Cross
Editor: Rachel Malig
Photographer: Amanda Heywood
Stylist: Caroline Davis
Production: Maeve Healy

Digital edition: 978-1-91112-777-2

Softcover edition: 978-1-91112-719-2

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.