TEXTILES

MARKET
SITUATION
REPORT
2024
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About WRAP
WRAP is a climate action NGO working
around the globe to tackle the causes
of the climate crisis and give the
planet a sustainable future.
Our core purpose is to help you tackle
climate change and protect our
planet by changing the way things are
produced, consumed, and disposed of.

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 Textile UK Manufacturing Post-consumer Looking Ahead
Consumption Textiles Market

Introduction

WRAP’s Textiles Market Situation These macroeconomic developments,

coupled with growing concerns about climate
Report (TMSR) debuted in 2016,
change and the environmental impact of
followed by a second edition in fashion, have questioned established market
2019, delivered in-depth insights knowledge and necessitated business practice
on economic trends impacting shifts. Hence, it is timely to assess the current
UK textiles market, considering these factors
the capture, re-use, and recycling and their implications for sustainability and
of key materials. Since then, the used textiles.
textiles industry has faced several This report provides a snapshot of the present
challenges, including the UK’s exit state of the UK textiles market, enabling the
identification of future opportunities and risks,
from the EU, the Covid-19 pandemic,
including updated material and economic
and a cost-of-living crisis. flows with a focus on sustainability.

Note
In this report, ‘textiles’ includes clothing, items such as shoes,
bags and belts, as well as household-type textiles such as bed and
table linen, and leisure textiles such as sleeping bags. Anything
outside of this scope will be highlighted in the text or footnotes.

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Key Themes and Findings

UK Consumption UK Manufacturing Post-consumer Textiles

The covid-19 pandemic had a large impact on The number of textiles and apparel Approximately 1,450 kilotonnes of post-
textiles consumption, with rates falling 330kt manufacturers within the UK has steadily consumer textiles were generated in 2022.
between 2019 and 2020, however this downward grown, totalling 9,315. Although investment
trend was temporary. Consumption figures in Gross Fixed Capital Formation (GFCF) in the
are back to near pre-covid levels, with the UK textile manufacturing sector has seen reductions, Around 727.7 kilotonnes of textiles were
consuming 1,420 kilotonnes of virgin products the sales value of manufactured textiles has discarded to landfill or incineration, with 546.4
in 2022. increased and the technical textiles sector kilotonnes disposed of in household residual
is expected to have year-on-year growth of waste bins, equating to about 4.2% of general
4.36% until 2030. waste.
The environmental impact of textiles
consumption in the UK remains very high,
Leading up to 2021 there was a significant
with carbon and water footprints at 32.9 million 650 kilotonnes of PCTs generated were diverted
decline in the value and volume of textile
tonnes of CO2e and 4.98 billion m3 of water. to reuse and recycling from end-of-life disposal,
imports and exports, largely due to Covid-19
where 421.6 kilotonnes were exported.
and Brexit. However following 2021, the volume
of imports has recovered by only 12.5%. Yet,
the cost of those imports is greater than pre-
pandemic levels, indicating a shift towards higher See Sankey diagram on page 20 for full Post
£/kg ration. Consumer Textiles flows.

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Contents
Textile Consumption 7 Post-consumer textiles market 18

Consumption Trends 8 Post-consumer Textiles Generated 19

Household Expenditure 9 Post-consumer Textiles Collected for Diversion 21

Inflation and Cost 9 Post-consumer Textiles Sold to the Public 22

Imports and Exports 10 Post-consumer textiles sent for end of life 23

Environmental Impact 13

Looking Ahead 33
UK Manufacturing 14
New, innovative materials, processes, 34
and technology
Manufacture of textiles 15
Supply chain mapping and transparency 37
Manufacture of clothing 16

Fibre prices 16

UK Wool manufacture 17

Technical textiles 17

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Glossary/Acronyms

B2C – Business to Consumer. EoL – End of Life. Sent to waste management Pre-consumer textiles - Textile stock that has
facilities for either incineration, landfill or other end been manufactured for and transferred to a retailer
B&R – Brand and Retailer. of life methods. but is yet to be used by a consumer. This can
include unsold products, returns, and damaged or
CAGR – Compound Annual Growth Rate. The mean GFCF – Gross Fixed Capital Formation. The faulty goods. ​
annual growth rate of an investment over a specified acquisition of produced assets (including purchases
period of time, longer than one year. R&R – Reuse and Recycler.
of second-hand assets), including the production of
such assets by producers for their own use, minus Raw Wool – Grease wool (wool as it is shorn from
Chemical polymer recycling -A type of chemical disposals. Also called “investment”. the sheep, before any processing.) in a natural state
recycling which takes materials back to their before scouring.
polymer level, purifies and reprocesses into pulp or HWRC – Household Waste Recycling Centre.
material to be re-spun into new fibres. This includes Scouring – The act of separating dirt, grease and
pulping, solvent-based and hydrothermal processes. HS – Trade Harmonized System. A standardised foreign matter from grease wool.
numerical system for the classification of traded
Chemical monomer recycling - A type of products. Technical Textiles – Textile products and
chemical recycling, which takes materials back to materials used for functional properties or
their monomer and/or oligomer building blocks, Mechanical recycling – A type of recycling, where technical performance over aesthetic or decorative
purifies and repolymerises for use in place of virgin materials are mechanically processed to recover characteristics.
polymers. This includes Methanolysis, Glycolysis, and use the existing fibres in new textiles. This TMSR – Textiles Market Situation Report.
Hydrolysis and Enzymatic processes. includes processes such as cutting, shredding and
flocking. TRA – Textile Recycling Association.
Commodity code – Commodity codes are
internationally recognised reference numbers. A OECD – Organisation for Economic Co-operation WDF – Waste Data Flow.
code describes a specific product when importing and Development. An intergovernmental
or exporting goods.1 organisation founded to promote world trade and WRAP – Waste Action Resource Programme .
economic progress.
CPI – Consumer Price Inflation is the rate at Wool Clip – Total amount of wool produced and
which the prices of goods and services brought P2P – Peer to Peer. shorn from a particular flock or flocks in a particular
by households rise and fall; it is estimated using region or country, in one year.
consumer price indices. Post-consumer textiles – Textiles that have
been purchased, used and then discarded for
reuse or disposal. It refers to textiles generated
by households or by commercial, industrial, and
institutional facilities in their role as end-users. This
excludes returned items

1 [Link]

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TEXTILE
CONSUMPTION
Over the last five years the textiles industry has
encountered disruptions in consumption patterns and
market dynamics, particularly shaped by the Covid-19
pandemic and the cost-of-living crisis.
 Textile UK Manufacturing Post-consumer Looking Ahead
Consumption Textiles Market

UK Consumption

Consumption Trends
Consumption of new
textiles fell by
330 kilotonnes
from 2019 to 2020.

This considerable downturn can be primarily

attributed to the widespread impact of Covid-19.
While some recovery was observed, consumption
levels by 2021 remained 15% below those recorded
in 2019. This indicates a gradual alleviation of the
pandemic’s influence; however, the persisting cost-
of-living crisis in 2022 has created a slow recovery
of consumption with figures reaching
1,420 kilotonnes2,3.

Figure 1: Total UK manufacturer sales of textiles 2011-2021 (UK) (in 1,000 GBP).

2 [Link]
3 [Link]

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Household Expenditure Avg. Weekly 2019 2020 2021 Inflation and Cost
Household Clothing prices steadily increased by 1.4% from
Regarding household expenditure, spending on
Expenditure 2020 2021 2022 2015 to 202113. However, in the 12 months leading
new clothing (excluding second-hand purchases)
underwent fluctuations during the examined period4. up to August 2022, the inflation rate soared to 7.6%,
In 2019, expenditure amounted to £59.1 billion,
Clothing and £22.80 £14.5011 £17.60 significantly hampering the recovery of clothing
which decreased to £48.3 billion in 2020, reflecting
Footwear10 consumption.
the impact of Covid-19 restrictions. By 2022, The average cost per clothing item followed a different
expenditure on new clothing experienced a slight Household £1.90 £2.20 £2.00 trajectory, registering nearly a 2% decrease since 2015
rebound, reaching £56.1 billion5. Textiles12 and finishing at £16.37 in 202214. Notably, this figure is
Notably, the Covid-19-induced upheavals led significantly below the overall Consumer Price Index
to a significant reduction in the average weekly Table 1: Average Weekly Household Expenditure on Textiles in the (CPI) rate during the same period which actually rose
household expenditure on clothing and footwear6,7 UK 2019-2022. Data collected from ONS and Statista (2023). by 9% between 2021-2022.
but expenditure on household textiles witnessed
an increase between 2020 and 20218. This is
potentially attributable to the Covid-19 restrictions,
with consumer shopping habits changing during
lockdown9.

4 Clothing costs consist of clothing materials, garments, other articles of clothing and clothing accessories, and the cleaning and hire of clothing.
5 ONS, Consumer trends: chained volume measure, seasonally adjusted, Consumer trends: chained volume measure, seasonally adjusted - Office for National Statistics
6 Deflated to 2019 figures
7 Family spending workbook 1: detailed expenditure and trends - Office for National Statistics ([Link])
8 [Link]
9 [Link]
10 Family spending workbook 1: detailed expenditure and trends - Office for National Statistics ([Link])
11 Deflated to 2019 figures
12 [Link]
13 [Link]
14 Statista. (September 2, 2022). Average price per unit in the apparel market in the United Kingdom (UK) from 2013 to 2026 (in GBP) [Graph]. In Statista. Retrieved December 15, 2022,
from [Link]

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Imports and Exports

Between 2017 and 2021, the UK textiles industry
experienced a significant decline in imports and
exports. Import volumes dropped by nearly 590
kilotonnes or £5 billion, with a notable downturn in
2020 due to Covid-19 and Brexit. Although there was
a slight increase in import mass in 2021, the overall
value continued to decline (£3.2 billion), indicating a
shift towards lower-priced textiles.
However, between 2021 and 2022 as the volume
only increased by value 74 kilotonnes, the value
increased by £6.3 billion, showing a shift in towards
items with a higher £/kg ratio. Textiles exports
decreased by over 480 kilotonnes or just over £3
billion, primarily driven by reduced exports to the
European Union (EU). The most significant decline
in export value occurred from 2020 to 2021 (£2.7
billion), with a sharp drop in EU exports. The decline
in both imports and exports can be attributed to the
combined impact of Covid-19 and Brexit.

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Top Ten Import

Countries
The map and accompanying chart below
show the top ten countries that the UK
imports consumer textiles from.

Import
Import Mass
Country Value
(Tonnes) (Millions £)
China 417,600 5,500

Bangladesh 232,700 3,200

Turkey 75,600 1,500

India 85,100 1,400

Pakistan 137,700 1,100

Vietnam 36,600 800

Cambodia 38,300 600

Sri Lanka 29,100 500

Myanmar 27,500 400

Hong Kong 10,300 300

Table 2: Top Importers (by value) and

associated mass. Source: UK Trade Info (2022).
Figure 2: Top Ten Import Countries by Value. Source: UK Trade Info (2022).

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Top Ten Export Countries

The map and accompanying chart below
show the top ten countries that the UK
exports consumer textiles to

Export
Export Mass
Country Value
(Tonnes)
(Millions £)
United States 7700 560

South Korea 700 400

Hong Kong 950 200

Australia 4500 150

UAE 3200 100

Macao 76 100

Japan 800 90

Switzerland 560 85

Saudi Arabia 1200 65

China 1200 50

Table 3: Top Exports (by value) of Textiles from the UK.

Source: UK Trade Info (2022).
Figure 3: Map of the Top Ten Export Countries by Value. Source: UK Trade Info (2022).

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%
The carbon and water footprints 2019 2021 Fibres 2019 2021 2022
decrease
of textiles consumed in the UK
34.5
decreased from 2019 to 2021, but Carbon million 29.4 million
14.8% Cotton 349,700 282,400 313,064
raised again in 2022 Footprint tonnes tonnes CO2e
CO2e
Wool 15,800 11,800 14,230
Environmental Impact Water 5.64 billion c. 4.67
17.2%
The carbon and water footprints of textiles can be Footprint m3 billion m3
mitigated through various measures including using Silk 20 1,930 1,138
less impactful or recycled fibres and extending the Table 4: Carbon and water footprints of textiles in the UK 2019
lifespan of clothing. The carbon and water footprints versus 2021.
Flax/linen 88,900 75,700 73,997
of textiles consumed in the UK was estimated using
the Textiles 2030 Footprint Tool15. The tool measures
the environmental footprint for the full life cycle % Viscose 96,800 82,300 101,034
2021 2022
impact of textiles. This is based on Textiles 2030 increase
signatories that cover 62% of the market16. The carbon
and water footprints of textiles consumed in the 29.4
32.9 million Polyester 786,800 693,200 768429
UK decreased from 2019 to 2021, but raised again Carbon million
tonnes of 11.9%
in 2022 (see table 4 and 5). This can be attributed to Footprint tonnes of
CO2e
a decrease in the mass of textiles consumed during CO2e Acrylic 39,900 19,300 19,922
that period due to Covid-19. However, the impact per Water c 4.67 c. 5 billion
tonne of fibre used in the UK changed by less than 7%
Footprint billion m3 m3
1% for both carbon and water footprints. To further Polyamide 75,400 64,200 71,151
reduce these impacts, decision-makers in the UK can Table 5: Carbon and water footprints of textiles in the UK 2021
consider increasing the use of ‘improved’ or ‘preferred’ versus 2022. Polyurethane/
fibres as referenced in the WRAP Circular Design Tool Polypropylene/ 39,900 34,800 54,075
Kit17 or reducing the total quantity of textiles produced Elastane
and imported.
Other 14,000 18,100 5,977
15 [Link]/resources/report/textiles-2030-footprint-tool
16 [Link]/resources/report/textiles-2030-annual-progress- Table 6: UK textiles apparent consumption by fibre type for
report-202122#download-file 2019-2022 (tonnes)
17 [Link]

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UK
MANUFACTURING
Outlining the UK’s textile and apparel manufacturing
landscape, showing growth trends, challenges, and
the promising expansion of technical textiles
 Textile UK Manufacturing Post-consumer Looking Ahead
Consumption Textiles Market

UK Manufacturing During the same period, the value of ‘Preparation

and spinning of textile fibres,’ ‘Finishing of textiles,’
Manufacturing locations
The UK has a total of 4,435 textiles manufacture
and ‘Manufacture of knitted and crocheted fabrics’
There are a combined total of 9,315 enterprises as of 202221. With England holding the
decreased by £112 million, £195 million, and £56
textiles and apparel manufactures within most (85.7%), followed by Scotland (7.0%), Wales
million, respectively. In 2019 to 2020, there was a
the UK18 (3.9%) and Northern Ireland (3.4%). Within England,
significant decrease of £550 million in the value of
most of the textiles manufacturing enterprises are
textile manufacturing, likely due to complications
based within the North West of England (15.4%), yet
and reduced demand caused by the Covid-19
Manufacturing businesses have been steadily East Midlands (14.2%), London (13.9%), the South East
lockdowns.
increasing since 2015, with 870 new enterprises (13.2%) and Yorkshire and The Humber (12.5%) closely
opening within the eight-year period. follow.

Manufacture of textiles
Sales value of textile19 manufacturing in the UK
increased from £3.94 billion in 2010 to £4.38 billion
in 2021, slightly down from the peak of £4.53 billion
in 201920.

The increase was mainly driven by:

● An increase in the value of ‘Manufacture of

made-up textiles articles, except apparel’ e.g.
bed linen (£411 million)
● An increase in the value of ‘Manufacture of non-
wovens and articles made from non-wovens
except apparel’ e.g. non-woven fabrics (£128
million).

Figure 4: Revenue of the textiles market in the UK (in billion GBP) – Sources: HMRC and ONS (2022)

18 [Link]/businessindustryandtrade/business/activitysizeandlocation/datasets/ukbusinessactivitysizeandlocation
19 The Textiles are covered by Division 13 – Manufacture of Textiles. This division includes preparation and spinning of textile fibres as well as textile weaving, finishing of textiles and wearing apparel,
manufacture of made-up textile articles, except apparel (e.g. household linen, blankets, rugs, cordage etc.).
20 [Link]
21 [Link]

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Manufacture of clothing Fibre prices Fibre prices have fluctuated

The sales value of wearing apparel manufacturing in In 2020, most fibres experienced a drop in prices, with
since the end of 2017
the UK reached its lowest level in 2021 (£1.27 billion) lower prices in Q2 2020 compared to Q2 2019 (except
since 2010 (£1.53 billion)22. There was a significant for Spandex, which slightly increased). However, prices
Cotton, acrylic, viscose,
reduction in sales from 2019 (£1.61 billion) to 2020 began recovering in 2021 and 2022, surpassing 2019 spandex, and flax saw
(£1.38 billion). The sectors that saw a decline were; levels for several fibres in Q2 of those years. price increases of over 10%
Cotton prices hit a multiyear low in 2020 but increased between Q3 2017 and Q1 2023
● ‘Other outerwear’ (-£93 million)23 (with flax increasing by over
in 2021. Stable cotton prices are expected in 2023, due
● ‘Underwear’ (-£183 million) 100%).
to reductions in consumption caused by the negative
● Knitted and crocheted hosiery (-£82 million) global economic outlook and high inflation being
manufacturing
somewhat offset by reductions in cotton production25.
● Sales of ‘Leather clothing’ and ‘Workwear’ Potential polyester price increases in 2023 will be limited Conversely, polyester, nylon,
also declined £2.1 million and £39.8 million
respectively if crude oil prices remain low. The overall negative global and wool prices decreased by
economic situation may hinder significant price increases at least 9% from Q3 2017 to
for textiles, while volatility and decreased business Q1 2023
Yet, in this period ‘Other wearing apparel and
confidence could cause price decreases.
accessories24 and ‘Other knitted and crocheted
apparel’ did see an increase of £125 million and £19
million, respectively. Unlike clothing consumption,
there was no recovery in manufacturing sales from
2020 to 2021, and they continued to decrease.

The ‘manufacture of other

outerwear’ is the largest
subsector in the UK representing
44.3% of UK apparel
manufacturing.
Figure 5: Annual fibre prices 2017 – 2023 (£/kg) - Source - TexPro: Textiles & Apparel, historic prices (2023)

22 [Link]
23 ‘Other outerwear’ - e.g. Coats, suits, skirts etc
24 ‘Other wearing apparel and accessories’ – Other wearing apparel e.g. Babies’ garments, tracksuits, swimwear etc. Accessories e.g. gloves, belts, shawls, hairnets etc
25 Global cotton consumption to fall below output after 2 years: ICAC - Fibre2Fashion

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UK wool manufacture
Production of raw wool in the UK has been stable
Technical textiles
Technical textiles are textile products and
The UK
technical
during the last decade with a slight increase in materials used for functional properties or
production between 2010 and 2021 going form technical performance over aesthetic or decorative
67 kilotonnes to 70.4 kilotonnes26. The main characteristics.

textiles
uses for raw wool in the UK are bedding and other
The UK technical textiles sector is experiencing
homeware, clothing, yarns for knitting and crochet,
strong growth. In 2022, it generated £9.68 billion and
carpets and insulation27.
is projected to have a compound annual growth rate
Prices of wool clip, on the other hand, have had
heavy fluctuations, with a very pronounced decline
from 2011 to 202128 due to a reduction in demand
(CAGR) of 4.36% until 2030, reaching a forecasted
value of £13.39 billion. In 2022, 2,394 kilotonnes of
technical textiles were manufactured, dominated by
sector is
experiencing
for woollen fabrics in the last two decades as a woven material and synthetic polymer fibres34.
result of manmade fibres and other natural fibres
The number of businesses in this sector accounts
that are more economically feasible such as acrylic,
for 5.64% of UK textiles manufacturing, with a

strong
polyester and cotton29.
notable growth of 74% between 2017 and 202235.
The volume of wool imported into the UK in 2021, The growth is primarily driven by domestic
which was in the form of non-manufactured textile automobile production and the demand for
wool not carded or combed, was slightly over 36
million kilograms30, with a value of $57.7 million31. By
comparison, the amount of non-manufactured textile
specialized components. The largest application of
technical textiles is in the transport sector, followed
by industrial products and components. Medical and
growth.
wool exported from the UK in 2021 was of 20.5 million hygiene has the highest CAGR at 5.64%.

In 2022, it
kilograms32 with a value of almost $46 million.33

26 UK wool annual production 2021 | Statista

27 What do we use wool for? | British Wool
28 Wool clip output price trend UK 1994-2021 | Statista
29 science behind the wool industry. The importance and value of wool production from sheep | Animal Frontiers | Oxford Academic
generated
£9.68 billion
30 UK wool imports 2021 | Statista
31 UK wool import value 2021 | Statista
32 UK wool exports 2021 | Statista
33 UK wool export value 2021 | Statista
34 Verified Market Research, 2022, UK Technical Textiles Market: Market Size, Status and Forecast to 2030
35 [Link]
kmanufacturerssalesbyproductprodcom

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POST-CONSUMER
TEXTILES MARKET
The following section will cover multiple areas of the
post-consumer textiles market such as textiles collected for
diversion in the UK; textiles sold/traded in the UK and textiles
sent for end of life36.
36 The analysis covers clothing, home textiles, leisure textiles, and accessories (shoes, bags, belts). Other categories like mattresses, carpets, workwear, pre-
consumer clothing, post-industrial waste, etc., are not included.
 Textile UK Manufacturing Post-consumer Looking Ahead
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Post-consumer
textiles generated
Around 1,450 kilotonnes of post-consumer textiles
were generated in the UK in 2022. See Sankey

1,400
diagram on page 20 for the post-consumer
materials flows and Table 7 for breakdown of key
volumes by stage.

Stage/Activity/Actor
Estimated
quantity 2021 kilotonnes of
post-consumer
(Tonnes)37

PCTs diverted from end of life 650,000 (Up 5%

textiles were
from 2019)
PCTs sold to the public 276,000

generated in
PCTs sent for end of life 759,000

Table 7: Quantification (tonnes) of post-consumer textiles at

the UK in 2022.
different stages and routes in the UK market in 2022.

37 Note, the total does not add to 1,450 kilotonnes. This is due to double counting in the onward destinations and material flows following PCT generation e.g., tonnages diverted by charities may be sold to
public or could be sent for end of life.

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Charity to EOL
Used textile/sorters/
18
graders to EOL
18

276

Figure 5: Sankey diagram showing the UK market for used textiles by kilotonnes, estimated value (£ million).

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Post-consumer textiles Average price per tonne of used textiles collected

in 2022 runs at £32938. The monetary value of
diverted from end of life used textiles is highest when the source of the
collected textiles was from Local Authority kerbside
collections. Bring banks and HWRCs were found to
Post-consumer textiles for Volume be of the lowest value39.
diversion (Tonnes)
Brand and retailer partnerships and take-back
Local authority managed collections 240,900
schemes
(kerbside/HWRCs/bring banks)
Brand and Retailer (B&R) take-back schemes are
Charities 350,000 a growing source of post-consumer textiles, as
Textile collectors/sorters & graders 469,000 companies attempt to build on more circular and
sustainable ways of disposing used garments.
Table 8: Volume (tonnes) collected for diversion by key reuse and Take-back schemes are usually managed by third
recycling actors. parties such as charities, collector/sorters or
online resellers. Data reports to Textiles 203040
Textile collectors/sorters & graders
has shown there has been a 60% increase in the
For this report, textile collectors, sorters and graders volume of used textiles collected from signatory
are combined together as one business type, as take-back schemes between 2019 and 2021. In
many actors participate across the reuse and 2021, signatories collected over 45 kilotonnes of
recycling value chain, both collecting and sorting. used textiles from online and in-store take-back
schemes, with this number expected to continue to
Textiles collectors, sorters & graders collect and
rise with the uptake of schemes by B&R.
handle the greatest volumes of used textiles by
business type around 469 kilotonnes of used textiles.
See Figure 5 for pie chart with list of sources and
percentage breakdown. The majority (45%) of used
textiles is sourced from privately operated commercial
bring banks. Following this, an estimated 32% are
collected from charities – this includes shops and
charity managed bring banks, which are then sorted
and graded in preparation for the next destination.
Figure 6: Pie chart displaying used textile collectors/sorters &
graders sources and percentage breakdown.
38 WRAP, Unpublished, Textiles Market and Waste Hotspot survey findings
39 WRAP, Unpublished, Textiles Market and Waste Hotspot survey findings
40 WRAP, 2022, Baseline Report

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Post-consumer textiles
sold to the public
Approximately, 276 kilotonnes of post-consumer
textiles were sold to the public via various streams
in 2022, including by charity retailers, business
to consumer used textiles retailers and peer to
peer (P2P) reuse organisations – see Figure 5 for
breakdown. Research suggests sales of post-
consumer textiles have increased in past years, with
notable changes also seen in the method of sales
(e.g., online/P2P platforms/in store), however there is
variation by business type.
From research and reporting by consulting41 and
market research firms42, the total value of the UK
second-hand clothing market ranges between low
estimates of £3,200 million and high estimates of
£6,500 million, this averages out at £4,845 million.
Note, there is a lack of reliable data in this area, this
figure should act as an estimation only.

Understanding how the differences between sources of used

textiles impact used textiles value would support the business
case for textile reuse, and the implementation of strategies to
promote collection from specific sources offering the highest
value option.
41 Oakdene Hollins calculation (low estimate)
42 Future Market Insights, 2022, Secondhand Apparel Market
Outlook (2022-2032),

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Charity retailers
Item Average Price (£)

Womenswear
According to the Charity Retail £3.95
(average)
Association approximate 53% of
textiles (c. 185.5 kilotonnes) collected Womenswear blouses,
£3.89
tops, knitwear
by charities are sold in store or online43.
Womenswear skirt
£3.82
Apparel makes up 65% of sales for charity retailers, and trousers
worth an estimated £552.8 million in 2022. Industry
experts indicated in interviews with WRAP that Menswear (average) £4.25
charity retail revenue is at an all-time high, largely
due to improved commercial and retailing practices Menswear shirts,
£3.90
that are increasing the price of an average item (see t-shirt, knitwear
Table 8).
Menswear trousers £4
Average prices of womenswear and menswear
stand at £3.95 and £4.25 per item, respectively.
Charities are also selling textiles through Table 9: Average price of clothing sold by charity retailers by
e-commerce, with around 4% of total retail sales product type45.
made online, predominantly on eBay (65.6%),
followed by charities’ own websites (33.7%) and
other reuse sites (0.7%)44. The volume of used
clothes sold in charity stores has decreased, with
more items being sent to used textile collectors
due to lower quality. Lower quality items are less
desired by customers and bring in a smaller margin
for charities and therefore are more challenging to
sell.

43 WRAP, Unpublished, Textiles Market and Waste Hotspot survey findings

44 WRAP, Unpublished, Textiles Market and Waste Hotspot survey findings
45 [Link]

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 Textile UK Manufacturing Post-consumer Looking Ahead
Consumption Textiles Market

Peer to peer reuse organisations

P2P reuse organizations, including digital platforms
The price per kilogram of used textiles on P2P
platforms varies based on retail channels, product
type, and brand48. It is unclear if items sold through
More work
is needed to
and consignment stores, connect sellers and buyers
P2P platforms are in addition to, or diverted from,
directly without owning the goods. These platforms
traditional reuse channels. However, if they are
also attract charities and B&R organisations for
in addition to traditional channels this suggests

encourage
selling pre- and post-consumer textiles. The use
great potential as currently on P2P platforms
of online P2P platforms has increased, especially
more items are listed for sale than actually sold49.
during the pandemic, with a 9.7% revenue growth in
Meaning they’ve been able to tap into the 26% of

the wider
e-commerce between 2021 and 202246.
unworn clothing currently dormant in the publics
wardrobes50.

The volume of textiles traded through

P2P platforms is estimated at 82.5
kilotonnes, but accurate quantification
population
is challenging due to limited transaction
records47.
to purchase
preloved
textiles over
new.
46 Oberlo, 2022
47 For the exercise, 3 platforms considered were eBay, Depop, and Vinted, due to their relative size to the market and the publicly available data. Of these platforms, the volume of textiles trade are
approximately 36,500 tonnes. Unquantified P2P volumes are estimated at 46,000 tonnes.
48 eBay is considered to be the P2P market leader, where the price per kilogram of textiles is £39.70. This figure includes apparel, footwear and accessories, but may not include home and leisure textiles.
49 Morning Consult, 2022, What Retailers Need to Know About Resale’s Buyers and Sellers. The research did not focus solely on textiles or P2P platforms.
50 WRAP,2022. Citizen Insights: Clothing Longevity and Circular Business Models Receptivity in the UK.

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 Textile UK Manufacturing Post-consumer Looking Ahead
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Recovered textile prices

Covid-19 saw recovered textile

prices impacted, with prices for
textiles banks bottoming out
around mid-2020 at £15 per tonne,
due to disruption and declining
demand due to lockdowns. This
period also saw nationwide closure
of charity shops, making price data
inaccessible. The value of recovered
textiles stabilized in mid-2021 but
at lower levels, The UK’s economic
slowdown in late 2022 has kept
prices low due to rising costs and
reduced discretionary spending.
As of January 2023, textile bank
prices are £172.5/tonne, and
charity shop prices are £255/tonne,
encouraging the collection of used
textiles for reuse and recycling.

Figure7: UK Recovered Textiles prices (£ per tonne). – Source: WRAP Materials Pricing Report (2023).

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 Textile UK Manufacturing Post-consumer Looking Ahead
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Business to consumer used textiles retailers Rental organisations

Research suggests the volume of textiles sold by The UK saw significant growth in the clothes rental
business to consumer used textiles retailers in the market between 2021 and 2022, with an estimated
UK in 2022 was 7,800 tonnes51. To help compare, this volume of 135.2 tonnes rented annually53. This
is a tiny fraction of both the post-consumer textiles corresponds to approximately 213,100 units and 2.8
generated (0.6%) and post-consumer textiles sold million rentals per year. New rental business models,
(3%). WRAP estimates the average price per kilogram including peer-to-peer renting, have emerged.
However, the current estimate suggests that less
for used textiles from this business type is £56.70,
than 100,000 items are rented through peer-to-peer
significantly the highest price for used textiles within
platforms.
the reuse market. The value of the business to
consumer used textiles retailer market is estimated The rental market relies on two key technologies:
at £441.2 million in 202252. Note, there is a large logistics & back-end technology and front-end
range of uncertainty, as prices per kilogram and technology. Logistics & back-end technology
markups on these vary widely depending on the facilitates the physical flow of rentals, requiring
method to commercialise the used textiles.” (see specialised infrastructure and capacity. Front-
page 28 on the word report) end technology enables businesses to offer rental
services through websites or rental marketplaces.
As the rental market expands, more players are
expected to enter the market on the fulfilment
side, leveraging the ease of front-end technology
implementation.

51 WRAP, Unpublished, Textiles Market and Waste Hotspot survey findings. Low estimation 5,190 tonnes, high estimation 10,381 tonnes. Level of confidence low.
52 WRAP, Unpublished, Textiles Market and Waste Hotspot survey findings. Low estimation £51.9 million, high estimation £830.5 million. Level of confidence low.
53 WRAP, Unpublished, Textiles Market and Waste Hotspot survey findings. Estimations based on figures from a market leader

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 Textile UK Manufacturing Post-consumer Looking Ahead
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Imported post-consumer textiles

● 38 kilotonnes post-consumer textiles
imported in 2022, up from 15.9 kilotonnes
from 2021.
● The increase in clothing sales attributed
to B2C used textiles retailers, vintage
wholesalers, and international shipping from
P2P platforms.
● Over half of the volume of used textiles
imported into the UK comes from Ireland
due to having the lowest value per kilogram
(£0.62).
● Poland and the Netherlands are known for
supplying vintage clothing to the UK.
● An unknown volume of used textiles are
collected in the UK, exported and re-imported
after detailed sorting and grading in other
countries. Reasons for re-importation of used
clothing to the UK include greater clothing
volumes than UK sorting capacity, cheaper
labour and established infrastructure abroad.

There is a clear need and business

case to increasing sorting capacity
in the UK.
Figure 8: UK Textiles imports into the UK 2017-2022 by mass (Kilotonnes). Source: HMRC (2023).

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 Textile UK Manufacturing Post-consumer Looking Ahead
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Exported post-consumer textiles

The UK is one of the world’s biggest exporters of used

clothing, behind the US and China. The top export
destinations in 2022 were the UAE, Ghana, and Pakistan.

● 421.6 kilotonnes of post- ● The UAE has a fast growing

consumer textiles were textile sorting and grading
exported from the UK in 2022. industry. Free-trade zones allow
● Exports reached their highest unsorted used textiles to be
level in 2022 after a dip in 2020 exported from the UK to be
due to Brexit uncertainty and sorted in-country.
the Covid-19 pandemic. ● The UAE is an example of wider
● 99% of the exports were offshoring of sorting and grading
categorized as worn clothing, operations in the used textiles
and 1% as rags. industry. Sorting is increasingly
economically unviable in the
● Sorting geographies for used
UK, due to high volumes of
textiles traditionally based
low quality volumes, high
within the E.U. and U.S. are
labour costs and low economic
shifting to other countries in
returns.
South America, Pakistan, India,
Bangladesh, and the United ● The estimated value of exported
Arab Emirates. textiles in 2022 was £367
million, with an average price of
£0.87 per kg.

Figure 9: UK Textile Exports in Kilotonnes. Source: HMRC (2023).

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 Textile UK Manufacturing Post-consumer Looking Ahead
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End markets Open/closed-loop recycling Fibre to Fibre (F2F) recycling in the UK

F2F mechanical recycling is currently taking place
Onward markets refer to markets for post- The other onward market for post-consumer textiles
in the UK for wool and cotton. Based off current
consumer textiles following collection and sorting collected outside of exports is open/closed-loop
business developments, by 2023, recycling polyester
recycling.
using a thermo technique is also expected to be
Onward Markets Volumes (Tonnes) operative in the UK.
The current volume of feedstock Volumes that are ‘chemically recycled’ through
Exports 421,600 for textiles recycling is estimated at chemical polymer or chemical monomer recycling
around 34,000 tonnes. processes in the UK are still very low, estimated
at below 1,000 tonnes per year. This accounts to
Open/closed-loop around 2% of textiles recycled into new products in
34,000
recycling the UK. At the time of writing, no chemical recycling
This mass is mainly direct from used textiles
was fully operative, with a small number of chemical
Table 10: End markets of post-consumer textiles generated collectors, sorters & graders or charities, with a
recycling businesses currently in the research and
included volume (tonnes). point-of-sale value at approximately £29.2 million.
development and piloting phases.
Per kilogram, costs for the feedstock are similar to
exports, estimated to average out at £0.87. Comparatively to Europe and globally, F2F recycling
is still in its relative infancy in the UK and requires
These volumes are then mechanically recycled,
significant investment to be an economically
where the used textile is typically cut into smaller
efficient equivalent to virgin fibres and to operate at
pieces and utilised in new textile-based products,
scale. Developments are expected in the UK in the
such as non-wovens and wipers. By grinding and
next few years, which would likely increase the value
shredding processes, post-consumer textiles can
per kilo of post-consumer textiles once sorted, to
also be returned to its fibrous form for products
create mass balance suitable for F2F technologies.
such as stuffing and insulation. The majority of this
This represents a substantial market opportunity as
recycled product (90%) is sold within the UK. The
well as increased and enhanced UK sorting capacity.
domestic market is prevalent for manufacturing
components and mattress materials, whilst recycled
wipers are largely exported.

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Textiles sent for end of life

Volume of textiles
Source % of the total
Textiles sent for end of life enter residual waste (tonnes)
streams such as general rubbish bins, residual
waste banks at HWRCs, bulky waste and litter.
These textiles end up being disposed of primarily Kerbside residual waste 546,390 72%
either through incineration or landfill – see Table
7. They are widely measured through the platform HWRC residual 164,850 22%
Waste Data Flow, as local authorities or their
contractors, are responsible for reporting on residual
waste collections. Bulky waste 5,140 1%

Litter 11,280 1%
In 2021, there were approximately
727.7 kilotonnes of clothing, shoes, Charity EoL 17,500 2%
bags and non-clothing textiles from
the sources above sent to landfill or Used textiles collectors/sorters/graders 13,840 2%

incineration in the UK.

Total textiles 759,000 100%

Table 11: Textiles sent to end of life disposal by waste stream and volume (Tonnes).

This number increases to 759 kilotonnes, when

textiles sent to end of life from charities and used
textile collectors/sorters & graders are included
– see Table 12 for tonnage breakdown. This figure
represents over half (54%) of all post-consumer
textiles generated in the UK in 2022.

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Consumption Textiles Market

% of total textiles % of all waste

Textiles found in the residual waste
Product type Tonnes found in residual disposed in residual
stream stream
Household residual waste
Of the textile tonnage found in household residual Clothing 259,500 47% 2%
bins in the UK, the highest proportion is identified
as clothing, totalling 47% or an estimated 259.5
kilotonnes. This figure stands at approximately 2% Other non-clothing
165,640 30% 1.3%
of waste disposed of in the residual stream54. See textiles
Table for tonnage breakdown by product type.
Shoes, bags & belts 121,250 22% 0.8%

Please note, comparisons on textiles Total textiles 546,390 - 4.2%

arisings in residual waste (kerbside and
Table 12: Tonnes (T) of textiles disposed of in household residual waste bins in UK in 2021.
HMRC) against our previous TMSR in 2019
should be taken with caution, due to Kerbside residual waste treatment
Covid-19 impacting collection operations In England in 2020 to 2021, once an item was Incineration with 84%
during research years. disposed of in the household residual waste bin energy recovery
and collected at kerbside by local authorities, the
majority of waste (84%) was sent to incineration
with energy recovery55 and 11% headed to landfill.
A landfill tax must be paid by local authorities
Landfill 11%
and waste management companies to place
volumes in landfill. This has an estimated value
of £10.2 million, or per kilo £0.1.

Other*
* Other includes incineration without energy recovery at 5%
0.49%. Other methods are not listed in WDF.

54 WRAP, Unpublished, England Waste Synthesis. English data scaled up to estimate UK tonnages
55 Waste Data Flow Q100. 2020-2021. England only

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HWRC residual waste

164.9 kilotonnes of textiles were disposed of in
residual waste banks at HWRCs in UK in 202156 .
This calculates to 10% of all waste discarded in the
HWRCs residual stream. Given the large quantity
‘Other non-clothing textiles’, which primarily of textiles that arises in
includes household textiles, accounts for the largest
proportion of textiles by product type at HWRCs at residual waste streams
49%, followed by clothing at 37%, - see Table 13 for
breakdown. (727.7 kilotonnes), there
is great opportunity
Product type Tonnes
% of textiles in
HWRC residual and economic value in
stream
diverting volumes away
Other non-clothing
80,600 49%
from incineration and
textiles
landfill by improving and
Clothing 61,760 37% investing in increased
Shoes, bags
capture, collection and
& belts
22,500 14%
sorting. This could enable
Total textiles 164,900 – a thriving circular resale,
Table 13: Tonnes (T) of textiles disposed of in HWRC residual
reuse and recycling
waste banks in UK (scaled) in 2021.
industry within the UK.

56 WRAP, Unpublished, England Waste Synthesis. English data

scaled up to estimate UK tonnages.

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 Textile UK Manufacturing Post-consumer Looking Ahead
Consumption Textiles Market

LOOKING AHEAD
Exploring the dynamics of research and development
investment and the emergence of innovative materials
within the UK textile and apparel sector.
 Textile UK Manufacturing Post-consumer Looking Ahead
Consumption Textiles Market

New, innovative materials, processes, and technology

The Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Investment in Research & Development (R&D) From 2006 to 2016, R&D expenditure in the UK
Development (OECD) classes R&D spending into in textiles and apparel in the UK textiles, apparel, and leather industries remained
three different categories: stable at an average of £17 million per year60.
Compared to other creative industries R&D in the
Although investment peaked at £39 million in 2017,
● “Basic research, which is experimental or textiles and apparel industry has been limited due
it declined to £29 million in 2020. In comparison to
theoretical work undertaken primarily to acquire to late adoption of technology, lack of innovation,
the total R&D expenditure across all industries in the
new knowledge of the underlying foundations of and structural constraints58.
UK, which reached £44 billion in 2020 and increased
phenomena and observable facts, without any
to £46.9 billion in 2021, the textile and apparel
particular application or use in view.
A survey revealed that 82% of manufacturing sector allocates a relatively small
portion of funds to R&D.
● Applied research, which is original investigation businesses in the fashion, textiles,
undertaken in order to acquire new knowledge. The UK textile, clothing, and leather manufacturing
and technology ecosystem are SMEs,
It is, however, directed primarily towards a sector prioritises applied research over basic and
specific, practical aim or objective. making it challenging for them to experimental development, resulting in limited
innovation and technology adoption. Increased
invest in R&D59.
investment in experimental development could
● Experimental development, which is systematic
lead to product and process improvements61.
work, drawing on knowledge gained from research
Funding for R&D primarily comes from businesses’
and practical experience and producing additional
own funds, followed by government and overseas
knowledge, which is directed to producing new
investments62.
products or processes or to improving existing
products or processes57.”

57 R&D in the creative industries | Nesta

58 Business of Fashion, Textiles & Technology: Mapping the UK Fashion, Textiles and Technology Ecosystem ([Link])
59 House of Commons, Business Statistics,(2022).
60 Textiles & clothing businesses: R&D expenditure 2006-2020 | Statista
61 The UK Fashion and Textile Association (2020) Compendium of Industry Analysis and Trends. UKFT.
62 Research and development in the UK: flow of funds explained - Office for National Statistics ([Link])

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Investment in Textile and Apparel Manufacturing

Gross Fixed Capital Formation (GFCF)63 for apparel manufacturers
remained stable at an annual average of £40 million from 2008
to 201864, while the textile manufacturing sector experienced
more volatility, ranging from £105 million in 2010 to £245 million
in 201765. However, both sectors have seen significant declines in
GFCF since 2018, with textile manufacturing falling by £277 million
and apparel manufacturing by £96 million. In 2019, investment in
textile manufacturing reached – £1 million and -£49 million for
apparel manufacturing, indicating investment levels lower than
depreciation. This decline in investment can be attributed to
factors such as Brexit, Covid-19, and economic recession66.

63 A measure of the net investment in capital (with deductions made for

disposals) including machinery, IT systems, intellectual property, etc.
64 Apparel manufacturers refer to those producing clothing.
65 The UK Fashion and Textile Association (2020) Compendium of Industry
Analysis and Trends. UKFT.
66 Business of Fashion, Textiles & Technology: Mapping the UK Fashion, Textiles
Figure 0: Flow of R&D development funding in the UK. Source: Office for National Statistics (2022).
and Technology Ecosystem ([Link])

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 Textile UK Manufacturing Post-consumer Looking Ahead
Consumption Textiles Market

Wrap’s Circular Design Innovative materials and processes

in the UK
Toolkit67 glossary defines
By main input, next-gen materials can be
next-gen materials categorised into69:
as “Materials that are ● Plant-derived: applies to virgin or waste or by
designed to replace product plant matter.
conventional materials, ● Mycelium: applies to root-like structure of fungal
and use a variety of species called mycelium.
● Cultivated animal cells: applies to tissue
innovative approaches to engineering approached to grow animal cell
replicate the aesthetics constructs in the laboratory.
and performance of ● Microbe-derived: applies to cellular engineering
their conventional approached such as cell culture or fermentation
processes to produce products such as proteins
counterparts”. Next- and biopolymers.
generation materials use ● Recycled materials: applies to recycled plastic
a variety of biomimicry or recycled textile feedstock as a main input.
approaches to replicate ● Blend: applies to blend of components not well-
captured by any of the above categories.
the aesthetics and
performance of At a global level, there are 102 companies focused
petroleum-based exclusively in researching and developing next-gen
materials, with $457 million invested in 202270 . 67
synthetics or animal- of these companies are trying to create alternatives
based counterparts68. to leather71. At a UK level, there are 8 companies that
exclusively focus on the research and development
Figure 11. Number of companies researching
of next-gen materials72.
and developing next-gen materials worldwide.

67 WRAP, Circular Design Toolkit, 2023.

68 [Link] ([Link])
69 2021 State of The Industry Report: Next-Gen Materials (2022). Material Innovation Initiative.
70 2022 State of The Industry Report: Next-Gen Materials (2023). Material Innovation Initiative.
71 Next-gen material companies globally by type 2021 | Statista
72 2022 State of The Industry Report: Next-Gen Materials (2023). Material Innovation Initiative.

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Supply chain mapping

UK Global
and transparency Average Average
Consumer values are shifting towards socially and
environmentally conscious purchasing due to the Governance 48.2% 34%
pandemic and climate emergency, with 26% of UK
consumers prioritising the environment when making
Transparency 30.6% 38%
purchases73. In 2020, the UK fashion sector invested
£623.9 thousand in improving supply chain ethics and
sustainability, focusing on packaging, logistics, industry Table 14: Comparison of supply chain commitment scores by FTI,
memberships, and supplier auditing74. However, UK and Global Average.
progress on transparency in the global fashion Source: FTI (2022).
industry is slow, with brands disclosing policies and
commitments more than outcomes and impacts.
UK-based brands scored higher in governance and
transparency compared to the global average75. Calls
for supply chain mapping and public disclosure are
increasing, but only 58 brands in the UK have disclosed
through the Open Apparel Registry76. Legislation that
could mandate greater public disclosure is expected in
the near future77.

73 The new normal is about shopping better not more | EY UK

74 Reshaping Retail ([Link])
75 Fashion Transparency Index 2022 (2022). Fashion Revolution.
76 Open Supply Hub
77 Sustainability Reporting: UK - Makersite GmbH

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of the climate crisis and give the planet
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sustainably. Our core purpose is to help
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