HOW TO BUILD A DIY COMPOST BIN

I had a lot of fun designing this DIY compost bin! The entire thing is covered in chicken wire or
hardware cloth to allow airflow (even the bottom so that critters can’t tunnel into the bin from
below). The lid has two latches and is covered with corrugated polycarbonate to protect it from
the weather. (Note: if you don’t mind rain and snow and ice getting into your compost pile you
can just cover the lid with chicken wire instead.)

The front panel is split in two and the bottom portion lifts up so that you can scoop out the
compost from the bottom of the pile when you’re ready to garden. And the bottom panel also
latches to keep critters out.

LUMBER & CUT LIST TOOLS

We used untreated cedar for our compost • cordless drill (I used my Ryobi 18v One+
bin; it’s slightly more expensive than treated drill and it worked great! I bought this
lumber, but since I plan on using this Ryobi starter kit that came with the drill
compost in our edible garden, I want to and a circular saw for under $100!)
make sure the compost doesn’t leach any • circular saw (if you need to cut down your
chemicals out of the lumber as it sits in the polycarbonate panel)
bin.
• 3/8″ drill bit
2×6 boards (two 12′ boards and three 10′ • driver bit (phillips or square drive, de-
boards), cut into the following pieces: pending on the deck screws you have)
• 15 – 2×6 at 3′ • staple gun and staples
• 2 – 2×6 at 3′ 3″ • carpenter’s square

2×4 boards (one 12′ board and one 10′ • diagonal pliers
board), cut into the following pieces: • pencil

• 7 – 2×4 at 3′ • tape measure

• fence post driver (or a hammer and a
2×2 boards (two 12′ boards), cut into the spare block of wood)
following pieces:

• 2 – 2×2 at 3′
• 2 – 2×2 at 1′ 3-3/4″
• 2 – 2×2 at 3′ 1/2″
• 3 – 2×2 at 2′ 9″

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HARDWARE & SUPPLIES Lay out all three 2×4 boards so that they
are evenly spaced across 3′ of space. Then
I’ve created a list on Home Depot’s website lay out three of the 3′ long 2×6 boards
of the exact supplies and tools I used for this perpendicular across the tops of the 2×4
project. Click here to see the DIY compost boards, evenly spaced again, so that you end
bin hardware & tools list. up with a square grid.

• 15′ of 3′ tall hardware cloth (I originally [Photo 1]

used chicken wire, but after a few years
our giant pitbull mix wore it out in places Pre-drill two holes at each end of each 2×6
by nosing into the bin and trying to eat board. Pre-drilling your holes helps keep
kitchen scraps!) the wood from splitting as you drive your
screws. Once your holes are drilled, square
• box of #8 2-1/2″ deck screws (I love up the boards using your carpenter’s square,
square drive screws because they’re so and then attach the 2×6 boards to the 2×4
easy to drive, but if you don’t have a boards using the 2-1/2″ deck screws. It’s
square drill bit, you can get these same super important that all of your boards
deck screws with a Phillips head drive) are square before you attach them,
• box of #8 1″ wood screws otherwise your compost bin is going to be
• 3′ x 3′ corrugated polycarbonate panel (I lopsided!
used a large panel, cut it down to size, and [Photo 2]
pieced it together to get 3′ by 3′)
• clear silicone sealant (to seal the lid if you You’ll use the other three 2×6 boards to help
have to piece it together) reinforce the grid. The 3′ boards will go along
each side and the 3′ 3″ board will be the
• 2 gate handles bottom of each side, as shown in the photo
• 4 3-1/2″ door hinges below.
• 4 3-1/2″ latch post safety hasps [Photo 3]
• 8 2-1/2″ flat corner braces
Remember that the vertical 2×4 boards are
• 2 3″ T-plates on the “inside” of the compost bin, while the
• 4 4′ fence stakes horizontal 2×6 boards are the “outside”.

Stand the grid on its side so that the 2×6

boards are standing vertically, and place
SIDES OF THE BIN one 3′ 2×6 board on top of the grid, lining
up the long edge of the board flush with the
Start by building the sides of the bin. You will
“outside” edges of the 2×6 boards (as shown
need the following boards for each side:
in photo below).
• 5 – 2×6 at 3′
Pre-drill holes into the middle of the 3′ 2×6
• 3 – 2×4 at 3′ board. You want the screws to go into the
• 1 – 2×6 at 3′ 3″ 2×4 board, not the 2×6 boards; this will give
you a stronger attachment. Drive 2-1/2″ deck

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screws to attach the support board to the boards across the two side pieces to make
side of the grid. the back of the bin. (See photo below; the
“bottom” of the bin is facing the camera and the
[Photo 4] “top” of the bin is facing the fence.)
Flip the grid over and repeat for the other 3′ Pre-drill two holes at each end of the 2×6
support board on the other side. boards, then square the boards to the sides
Then rotate the grid 90 degrees so that the of the bin and drive 2-1/2″ deck screws to
2×4 boards are standing vertically. Place the attach the “back” boards to the two sides.
3′ 3″ 2×6 board on top of the grid, lining up [Photo 6]
the long edge of the board flush with the
“outside” edge of the 2×6 board so that the Stand the bin up on its bottom boards, and
entire “outside” surface of the grid is flush. your DIY compost bin is 3/4 complete!
This 3′ 3″ board will become the “bottom” of
the bin. [Photo 7]

Pre-drill holes into the 3′ 3″ 2×6 board so that

you have 2 holes lined up with each of the
short ends of the vertical 2x4s. Drive 2-1/2″
FRONT OF THE BIN, PLUS
deck screws to attach the support board to HINGED DOOR
the bottom of the grid.
Next we will add some support to the front of
Flip the grid over so the 3′ 3″ board is on the the bin, and build the hinged lower door for
bottom, and you have made one side of your easy compost access. For this part, you need
compost bin! (The photo below is shown from the following boards and hardware:
the “inside” of the compost bin; the boards are
all flush on the side facing the fence, but they • 2 – 2×2 at 3′
are not flush on the “inside”, which is totally • 2 – 2×2 at 1′ 3-3/4″
fine!) • 1 – 2×6 at 3′
[Photo 5] • 1 – 2×4 at 3′

Repeat the directions above to make the • 4 2-1/2″ flat corner braces
second side piece. • 2 3-1/2″ door hinges
• 1 gate handle
BACK OF THE BIN • 2 3-1/2″ latch post safety hasps

For this part, you need the following boards: Lay out the 2×2 boards into a rectangle so
that the entire length of the shorter 2×2
• 3 – 2×6 at 3′ boards is sandwiched between the ends of
the 3′ boards. The entire rectangle should be
Once you have two sides, rotate them 90 exactly 3′ long and 1′ 6-3/4″ tall (the 1′ 3-3/4″
degrees so they are standing on their side boards plus 1-1/2″ on either end, the width of
edges; the 3′ 3″ bottom boards should be the 2×2 boards).
standing vertically. Then lay three 3′ 2×6

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Pre-drill a single hole through both ends of hasp with the post, and attached the hinged
the 3′ boards. Then square the joints and use latch to the bin frame itself.
2-1/2″ deck screws to attach the 3′ boards to
the shorter boards. [Photo 11]

Attach a flat corner brace to the bottom of Repeat to attach the hasp on the other side.
each corner. This will help support the joint
since you only have one screw holding each
corner together. Once you have the 2×2 door TOP OF THE BIN, PLUS
frame built, set it aside.
HINGED LID
[Photo 8]
Next you’ll build the lid and top of the bin. For
Flip the bin over so that it is laying on the this part, you need the following boards and
back boards and the open front is face up. hardware:
Pre-drill 2 holes into each end of the 3′ 2×6
board and place the board on the “front” of • 2 – 2×2 at 3′ 1/2″
the bin, flush with the “top”. Square the board • 3 – 2×2 at 2′ 9″
and attach it to the “front” of the bin using • 1 – 2×6 at 3′
2-1/2″ deck screws. (See photo below.)
• 4 2-1/2″ flat corner braces
Set the 2×2 door frame on the bin so that • 2 3″ T-plates
three sides are lined up with the sides and
bottom of the compost bin. Place the 3′ 2×4 • 2 3-1/2″ door hinges
board on the “front” of the bin, about 1/4″ • 1 gate handle
above the door frame. Pre-drill two holes in • 2 3-1/2″ latch post safety hasps
either end, square the board to the bin, and
attach using 2-1/2″ deck screws. (See photo Rotate the bin back to upright (bottom
below.) boards on the bottom). Place the 3′ 2×6
board across the bin, at the back. Pre-drill
Attach the door frame to this 2×4 board two holes in either end of the board, square
using the two door hinges. the board so it is flush with the back of the
[Photo 9] bin, and attach using 2-1/2″ deck screws. (See
photo below.)
Attach the gate handle to the front of the
door frame at the bottom. Build the lid frame the same way you built
the lower door frame. Lay out the two longer
Then attach the latch post safety hasps to 2×2 boards, and put the three shorter 2×2
either side of the door to hold it closed. I boards in between the longer boards, evenly
attached the “post” part of the hasp to the spaced. Pre-drill a single hole in the longer
door frame itself, about 3″ up from the 2×2 boards at each joint, square each joint,
“bottom” of the bin. then attach the frame using 2-1/2″ deck
screws. (See photo below.)
[Photo 10]
Attach flat corner braces at each of the four
Then I lined up the hinged latch part of the

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outer corners of the lid, and attach the two slowly unroll it as we attached it. Once the
T-plates at the joints in the middle of the lid. entire bottom is covered, use the wire cutters
to snip the hardware cloth free of the roll,
[Photo 12] flush with the edges of the compost bin.
Attach the lid to the 3′ 2×6 board using the Then stand the bin upright and add hardware
two door hinges. cloth to the inside (You could do it on the
Attach the gate handle to the top of the lid at outside of the bin, but it isn’t as pretty and it
the very front. doesn’t contain the compost as well; stuff can
slip out the gaps between the boards, so it’s
Then attach the latch post safety hasps at the better to attach it on the inside.) Again, the
front of the lid to hold it closed. I attached easiest way to do this is to put the whole roll
the “post” part of the hasp to the lid itself, inside, start in one corner, and slowly staple
at the front, about 3″ in from the sides of and unroll as you go. Make sure you attach
the bin. Then, same as with the lower door, hardware cloth to the lower door frame as
I lined up the hinged latch part of the hasp well, as a separate piece so you can still open
over the posts and attached the latch itself to the door.
the front of the bin.
Feel free to go heavy on the staples! You
Now you have the framework of your DIY don’t want to leave any spaces for rats and
compost bin completely built! other critters to get in, so staple away!

[Photo 13] Note: The photos show us using chicken wire

instead of hardware cloth, but like I mentioned
before, our giant pitbull mix kept nosing the bin
ADDING HARDWARE CLOTH to get at our kitchen scraps, and the chicken
wire slowly started to fail after a few years.
The next step is to add hardware cloth to I replaced it with hardware cloth and that’s
help keep the compost in the bin and the holding up great, so I suggest using hardware
critters out! For this part, you need the cloth in the first place!
following supplies:
[Photo 14]
• 15′ of 3′ tall hardware cloth
• staple gun and staples
• diagonal pliers COVERING THE LID
Tip the bin backwards so it’s resting on its Once you have hardware cloth everywhere,
back boards. Using your staple gun, staple it’s time to cover the lid! For this part, you
hardware cloth across the entire bottom of need the following supplies:
the bin. Be sure to put staples every 3″ or 4″
• #8 1″ wood screws
to make sure it’s held on well and no critters
can burrow in between the staples. • corrugated polycarbonate panel cut
down to 3′ x 3′
We found the easiest way to do this was to
• clear silicone sealant
leave the hardware cloth on the roll, and

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Take your 3′ x 3′ piece of corrugated compost from the front. You also want to be
polycarbonate and attach it to the top of the sure to keep the bin at least 6″ away from all
lid frame using the 1″ wood screws. There’s fences and structures on all sides. This is so
no need to pre-drill these holes; the screws that you don’t get any critters nesting in the
are short enough that they shouldn’t split the nice, dark, warm spaces between the bin and
wood, and the screws will drive right through your garage or fence!
the polycarbonate without issue.
Once you have your bin placed, drive a fence
Our piece of polycarbonate was not actually post into the ground at each of the four
3′ wide, so we had to layer two pieces next corners. If you have a fence post driver, use
to each other. We overlaid two pieces so that; otherwise a hammer and a scrap block
that the corrugations fit nicely together, and of wood will work!
used clear silicone sealant to hold the pieces
together. Then we added our wood screws [Photo 16]
about every 3″ or so around all four edges to Drive the stakes about a foot into the ground.
hold the polycarbonate in place. Then attach them to the bin itself using
We also added a few wood screws in the 2×2 2-1/2″ deck screws through the pre-drilled
in the middle of the lid frame, just for good holes in the fence stakes.
measure! And you’re done! Stand back and enjoy!
[Photo 15] [Photo 17]

INSTALLING THE BIN

The last step is to find a place for your DIY
compost bin, and “install it”! For this part, you
need:

• 4 4′ fence stakes
• fence post driver

The bin itself is really beefy and strong, but

we added a few fence stakes just to be extra
sure that no critters could tip it over, or that
the strong summer storm winds wouldn’t
knock it over.

First, find a place for your bin.

You want it to be near your garden so you

don’t have to carry the finished compost very
far, and you need to make sure you have
room to open the lower door and pull out

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 PHOTO APPENDIX
PHOTO 1 PHOTO 4

PHOTO 2 PHOTO 5

PHOTO 3 PHOTO 6

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 PHOTO APPENDIX
PHOTO 7 PHOTO 10

PHOTO 8 PHOTO 11

PHOTO 9 PHOTO 12

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 PHOTO APPENDIX
PHOTO 13 PHOTO 16

PHOTO 14 PHOTO 17

PHOTO 15

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