Sew Exciting Level I
Sew Exciting Level I
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No. 5350 Printed December 2017
Sew Exciting Introduction and Montana Curriculum Requirements
Member Project Guide – This project is designed for youth who want to learn to sew, no experience is necessary, just a desire
to learn. Being able to sew opens a new way to express creativity and create sewn objects for family, friends and yourself.
Sew Exciting is designed to be completed in one year. There are 5 sewing projects featured in this curriculum and you need
to complete 3 of those to complete the year.
This project features the following Life Skills:
It fosters a positive self-concept as youth complete successful sewing projects and are able to share what they have made
with other people.
They will learn decision making as they choose projects from the curriculum and choose the materials they are going to use,
creating a unique product.
In sewing there are many opportunities for community service through sewing including rice bags for local hospitals and
nursing homes, bibs for young mothers, bathrobes for nursing homes, etc.
Notes to Project Helper:
You have been asked to be a project leader for a 4-H youth who is learning a new skill. What a wonderful opportunity to
pass on your love of sewing and help youth create and carry out a project plan.Your job is to help youth with activities
they have selected and provide guidance and gentle feedback on what they have done well and where there is room for
improvement. It is your role as a project helper to encourage, guide and assist the 4-H member.
The 4-H Experiential Learning Model provides the framework for this curriculum and
reflects the design of the original Bioscience Montana project (http://eu.montana.edu/
bioscience/).
Experience
Pfeiffer, J.W., & Jones, J.E., “Reference Guide to Handbooks and Annuals”
©1983 John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
Reprinted with permission of John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
Other Equipment
Basic Tools for your Sewing Kit Iron – Used to press seams open or to the side
Marking Tools – Chalk, pens or pencils made and keep fabric neat.
especially to mark fabric temporarily.
Ironing Board – A padded surface to iron on.
Needles – Pointed at one end with an eye for the
Press Cloth – Helps prevent iron shine and is
thread at the other end. They come in assorted
always used when applying fusible interfacing.
sizes. The lower the number, the larger the needle.
Keep tools together so they are easy to find when
Pin Cushion or Pin Magnet – A place to store
you are ready to sew. A sewing box is a great way
pins when they are not being used. A pin magnet
to keep tools organized. In Level 1, we will make a
makes it easy to pick up spilled pins.
sewing kit that will hold basic supplies.
Pins – Used to keep pieces of fabric together. They
are easiest to use if they are at least 1 ¼ - 1 ½
inches long. (Images on next page)
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Scissors Shears Tape Measure
Tension
Control Flywheel or
handwheel
Reverse lever
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Throat Plate – The metal plate with openings that Tension Control – Limits the tightness of the
fit around the feed dogs. The needle goes through upper thread.
it to catch the bobbin thread and it usually has a Thread Cutter – A place to cut thread without
seam guide on it. scissors.
Power Switch – Turns a sewing machine off and on. Thread Guides – Holds thread in place on the
Presser Foot – Holds fabric in place while sewing. sewing machine between the spool of thread and
It must be down whenever sewing. the needle.
Presser Foot Lever – Lifts and lowers presser foot. Thread Take-Up Lever – Pulls thread from the
Reverse Lever – Allows the machine to sew spool. Moves up and down with the needle.
backwards.
Spool Pin – Holds the spool of thread in place. Where Is The Part?
Stitch Length Control – Sets length of the stitch. Directions
Stitch Pattern Control – Shows which pattern Photocopy or replicate the labels below, and then
the machine will sew. cut them out. Using tape, attach each label to the
Stitch Width Control – Sets the width for the correct part on your sewing machine.
zigzag stitch.
Bobbin Case
Presser Foot Bobbin Winder Reverse Lever
and Bobbin
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Threading the Machine and Bobbin
The diagram below shows the basic threading Practice threading the machine a few times, after a
pattern. Each model may be a little different. Have while you will not even have to think about it – the
someone who is familiar with the machine show threading will just come naturally. Some machines
you how to thread it. have arrows to help thread the machine correctly.
1. 2.
3. 4.
5. 6.
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Winding a bobbin Drawing Up The Bobbin Thread
Winding a bobbin can vary depending on the 1. Pull the needle thread behind the needle and
machine, but the steps below apply to most hold on to it.
machines. Check the machine manual for 2. Turn the hand wheel toward you so that the
instructions to wind a bobbin on your machine. needle goes down once and comes back up.
1. Loosen the hand wheel to disengage the 3. Gently pull the thread you held onto and a
needle. loop will come up; that is the bobbin thread.
2. Pull the thread from the main spool and wind it 4. Pull both threads until they are at 4 - 6 inches
around the bobbin thread guide. Take an empty long, then pull threads under the presser foot
bobbin and guide the end of the thread up and and to the back of the machine.
out of the hole found on the top of the bobbin.
Snap the bobbin in place on the bobbin winder 5. A machine is much less likely to come
while holding the top thread. unthreaded with a long tail of threads under
the presser foot and behind the machine.
3. While holding the thread end, gently step on
the foot control to wind the bobbin. Once it
has filled the bobbin enough to securely wind, Rules for Using the Sewing
cut off (as short as you can) the thread you Machine
were holding, then continue winding.
1. Before sewing, pull threads UNDER and BACK
4. Many machines automatically stop when the behind the presser foot about 4-6 inches.
bobbin is full.
2. The hand wheel ALWAYS turns toward you,
5. Cut the thread and remove the bobbin from even when stitching in reverse.
the bobbin winder. Tighten the hand wheel to
re-engage.
Your machine will have either a drop in bobbin or
a bobbin case. Check the sewing machine manual
to see how to put a bobbin in your machine.
Photos: Sara Adlington
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3. Keep fingers several stitches away from the 6. To begin, place fabric under the presser foot
stitching line; keep them flat on the machine on and lower the needle into the fabric about a
both sides of the presser foot. half-inch from the edge of the fabric. Stitch in
4. The presser foot must always be in the down reverse until reaching the edge of the fabric
position when sewing. and then proceed forward until reaching the
end of the seam. Press the reverse button for 4
5. Do not force or pull the fabric. The feed dogs – 6 stitches (back-stitching) and then sew again
will feed fabric through automatically. to the end of the fabric.
6. Use the thread cutter to cut the threads close 7. When finished stitching, turn the hand wheel
to fabric or trim threads with a small scissors. toward you until the take-up lever is at the
7. Take pins out as you sew – do not sew over highest point.
pins. 8. Pull the fabric out the back of the machine for
8. Maintain a slow, even speed with the foot pedal. 4-5 inches and clip the threads close to the
fabric.
9. Watch the seam guide, not the needle, to
produce a straight sewing line. Read all directions before starting a project.
10. When stopping in the middle of a line of
sewing, put the needle down into the fabric to Stitching Corners
prevent thread loops and to anchor the fabric. Once you have mastered straight lines, you are
11. Keep the bulk of the fabric to the left of the ready to sew corners. To turn corners you will
needle when sewing to better see the seam need to learn to “pivot.”
guide on the needle plate. 1. To turn a corner, first stitch to within a seam’s
width of the corner, stop, put the needle down
Steps to Begin Sewing on the through the fabric by turning the hand wheel
toward you and then lift the presser foot.
Sewing Machine
2. Turn the fabric 90 degrees so that the presser
1. Before starting, make sure to have the small
foot lines up with the next stitching line. Lower
scissors, pins and fabric near the machine.
the presser foot and sew to within a seam’s
2. Raise the take-up lever and needle to their width of the next corner.
highest point using the hand wheel (always
3. Continue the process above for each corner:
move the hand wheel toward you). Make sure
to use thread tails that are at least 4 inches • Stop
long. This will keep the thread from pulling out • Put the needle down
of the needle.
• Lift the presser foot
3. Make sure the upper thread and the bobbin
• Turn the fabric
thread are pulled back behind the presser foot.
This will keep them from getting tangled in the • Presser foot down
bobbin case. • Continue sewing
4. Place the fabric under the presser foot, with
the bulk of the fabric to the left of the machine.
Lower the presser foot.
TIP: Measure where the next seam needs to
5. At the beginning and end of a seam, use a
be, and mark it with a pencil or a pin for the
backstitch to secure the stitches so the seam
correct seam width.
does not pull out.
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PRACTICE STITCHING SHEETS
Photocopy or trace practice stitching sheets for easier use, or remove the center sheets (p. 8-11) from the booklet.
Lines
You will have more fun using the sewing machine if When you sew on fabric, you won’t have lines
you learn to control how fast you sew. Sewing on to follow. You will have to look at a “guide” and
paper practice sheets will prepare you to sew on not the needle. To practice this:
fabric. Here is how: Place the right edge of your Presser Foot right
1. Take all the thread out of the sewing machine. next to a line. Try to stitch an even distance from
2. Put the needle down on the end of one line each line.Your Presser Foot is the “guide.”
and lower the Presser Foot. Quilters often use seams that are ¼ inch wide. To
3. Slowly press down on the foot pedal to start practice this, try stitching exactly ¼ inch from all
the machine sewing. You will learn just how edges of this practice page.
much to press to get a smooth, even speed. Try Remember that the machine will feed the fabric and
to keep the needle going down right onto the you only need to guide the fabric to the left or right
line. Do the same on all lines. under the needle. Pushing the fabric or holding it back
can cause the needle to bend or break.
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Corners
This page will help you practice sewing straight
lines and making square corners.
4. Do the same thing at each corner.
1. Start at one end of the line.
5. Now, use the edge of the pressure foot as a
2. When you come to a corner, put the needle guide and stitch an even distance from the line.
down exactly on the corner. Turn each corner the same way you did as
3. Lift the presser foot, and turn the sheet of when stitching on the line.
paper so the line is straight in front of you. Put 6. Now stitch exactly ¼ inch from the edge of all
presser foot back down and sew. four edges of this page.
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Spirals
Slow down for this practice sheet. 3. Then stitch exactly ¼ inch from all 4 edges of
1. Stitch on the spiral line. Try to keep the needle this page.
on the line.
2. Then stitch an even distance from the line just
like on the other pages.
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CHOOSING FABRIC
Choosing Fabric for Sewing
Things to think about when selecting fabric: Knit fabric –made of one or more threads that
form interlocking loops.
1. For the first few projects, solid fabric and
overall prints are the best choices. Plaids and Lengthwise grain (warp) – Lengthwise grain
stripes should be matched, which is more has threads that run in the same direction as the
difficult and usually requires more fabric. selvages. Lengthwise threads are usually stronger
and heavier than crosswise threads.
2. Border prints are beautiful but not a good
choice for beginning projects. Selvage – The tightly-woven edge running in the
lengthwise direction of the fabric. Typically the
3. Woven cotton or polyester-cotton blend
selvage edge does not ravel.
fabrics are the best choices for beginning
sewing projects. They lie flat and smooth, do Woven Fabric – is made of lengthwise and
not usually ravel easily and are not too stretchy crosswise threads.
or tightly woven.
When purchasing fabric, make sure to examine the Preparing Fabric for Sewing
end of the bolt for important information including: 1. Prewash fabric according to the care
• Fiber content instructions on the end of the bolt before
• Fabric width – usually 41- 44 inches cutting out a project. If any shrinkage is going
to occur, you want it to happen before cutting.
• Cost Once dry, press the fabric.
• Care Instructions 2. Now straighten the fabric so that both
There are a few fabric vocabulary words to know grainlines are straight and the edges of fabric
before selecting fabric. match.
Bias – is the stretchiest part of the fabric, and is 3. To straighten woven fabric, cut through one
the crossgrain (45 degrees) direction to the warp side of the selvage about 1” and pull the fabric
and weft threads. to tear across entire width of fabric.
Crosswise grain (weft) – Crosswise grain has 4. Fold fabric in half so that selvages are together
threads that run across the fabric from one selvage and check to see if the grainline is straight.
to the other. Crosswise threads stretch more than The lengthwise grain should be parallel to the
lengthwise threads. selvage edge and the crosswise threads should
be perpendicular.
knit woven
Photos: Susan Anderegg
Picture of the end of bolts of fabric Diagram of knit and woven fabric
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5. If the fabric edges are uneven, pull the fabric Zigzag Stitch – Zigzag
on the bias the length of the fabric until the close to the raw edge.
fabric lays flat. Some fabric may remain about The lighter the weight of
half-inch off, but that is not a problem. The fold the fabric, the smaller the
should lay flat on the table. stitch should be. Once
the seam is sewn and
Pressing versus Ironing pressed, either zigzag the
raw edges together or
To have a great finished product when sewing, separately. Zigzag Stitch
pressing is just as important as sewing! Sew and
then press, sew and press, sew and press! Edge Stitch – Machine
stitch ¼ inch from the raw edge. Once the seam
Ironing – Is the motion of moving the iron back is sewn and pressed, edge stitch the raw edges
and forth in a gliding motion. Ironing is what we do together or stitch them separately.
to clothing to get wrinkles out.
Turn and stitch – Turn the raw edge of the fabric
Pressing – Is a lifting up and down motion – no under ¼ inch, press it and then sew.
gliding and it is the only way to use the iron when
sewing, because it does not stretch the fabric. A seam only has to be finished if it will be exposed
once the entire project is complete.
Steps to Pressing:
• Use a steam iron.
• Choose the correct temperature setting for
the fabric. It is always a good idea to test the
iron on a small piece of fabric first.
• Usually it is best to press on the wrong side of
the fabric.
• Avoid pressing over pins because they will
Checklist to Begin Sewing
leave marks, and you can even melt the heads ____ Do you have the right color thread?
of pins.
____ Is the bobbin filled with the right color of
• First press the seam flat, it sets the stitches and thread?
makes it easier to press the seam open. ____ Are the top thread and bobbin threaded
• Now spread the fabric to press the seam correctly?
open and watch out so your fingers don’t get ____Are the correct sides of fabric facing each
burned! other?
Remember to always rest an iron on the heel! ____Are the edges pinned together?
____Do you know where to start and stop
Seam Finishes
sewing?
____Do you know how wide the seam allowance
Seam finishes are used to prevent seams or fabric should be?
edges from raveling. There are 4 acceptable seam ____Is the presser foot down?
finishes in 4-H. They are:
____Remember to backstitch at the beginning and
Serged Overlock Stitch – Serge fabric edge with end of the seam.
an overlock stitch. ____Remove pins as you sew.
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PROJECTS
Rice Bag (no-turn project)
Supplies: Using a funnel with the end inserted into the
• 2 – 12 inch squares of fleece 2-inch open space, fill the bag with 4 to 5 cups of
rice. Pin the opening and carefully take the rice bag
• 4-5 cups of rice (not Minute Rice) to the sewing machine and sew closed the 2-inch
1. Put pieces of fleece together and pin all the opening, back stitching at both ends.
way around leaving 2 inches unpinned on the 2. The bag can either be heated in the microwave
middle of one side. Sew the two pieces of for 2 – 2 1/2 minutes or put in the freezer
fleece together using a ½ inch seam allowance and used as an ice pack. If using as an ice pack,
and pivoting at the corners, leaving the 2-inch store it in the freezer in a large plastic zipper
space unsewn. Make sure to backstitch at the bag so that it does not absorb moisture or
beginning and end of the seams. Cut all loose freezer odors.
threads.
12”
12”
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Pot Holder
Supplies: pivoting at the corners. Back stitch at the
• 2 – 8” squares of cotton fabric, they can be beginning and end of the seams. It will be easier
matching or different to sew on the fabric side of the fabric/batting
sandwich.
• 2 – 8” squares of cotton batting
2. Trim the corners of the potholder to reduce
1. Place the two pieces of batting together on a bulk. Turn the potholder right side out through
flat surface. Place one piece of the fabric on the opening left on the side. Push out the
top of the batting with the right side of the corners using a knitting needle or point turner.
fabric facing up. Place the second piece of fabric Be careful not to poke a hole in the fabric.
on top of the first with the WRONG side up. Iron the potholder flat, making sure the seam
You now have a 4-layer sandwich. Pin all the allowances on the open side of the potholder
way around leaving a 3-inch spot unpinned are tucked in. Sew the opening closed, sewing
in the middle of one side. Using a ½ inch very close to the edge and back stitching at
seam allowance, sew all the way around the both ends.
potholder (except for the 3 inches left open),
batting
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Reversible Headband
Photo: Shannon Brence
the general and adjust the elastic to fit. Sew across the end,
shape you catching the elastic and back stitching at either end.
will be 4. Topstitch around the whole headband if desired.
cutting.
Sides about
About 4” wide
long,
7.5”
a b out
de th
a l f-si l leng
H tota
15”
Press 1/4 inch of fabric to the wrong side on narrow ends of both
before folding right sides together and then pinning. Elastic inserts
into these ends after sewing and turning.
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Sewing Tool Kit
Supplies: edges together using the same steps, but begin
at the bottom this time.
• One brightly colored hand towel
3. Measure the size of various sewing tools such
• Matching thread as scissors, measuring tape, seam gauge, pin
• 12 inches of 1/4 -inch elastic boxes, etc. Mark the desired number and size
• 3 yards of narrow ribbon of the pockets with a marking pen and ruler;
make at least six (6) pockets. Pin them in place.
You will learn how to: Stitch on the marked lines from top to bottom,
• Measure, using a ruler or a seam gauge. backstitching at each end (see B).
• Mark with chalk or a marking pencil. 4. Attach elastic on the left side of the towel,
3 - 4” from the hemmed edge. To do this, mark
• Pin items together for accurate stitching.
a line with chalk as a guide for the elastic.
• Backstitch. Divide the line into 1 1/2” sections, using
• Sew elastic. a ruler and pins. Turn the end of the elastic
under 1/2” on one end. Use a pencil to mark
1. On the long edge of the towel, turn up 7” and
the elastic at 2” intervals, creating 5-7 loops.
pin it in place with 3 pins. For a smaller towel
Starting at the top, stitch across the turned
you may need to fold up less than 7”.
under end of the elastic three times (see C).
2. Sew the two thicknesses of towel together Continue matching elastic to the pins on the
(see A) using the right edge of the presser towel, stitching across the elastic three times.
foot as a seam guide, backstitching at the top
and bottom. To backstitch, place needle in
the fabric 1/2” from the edge, and lower the
presser foot. Press the backstitch lever or
button to reverse stitching, sewing backwards Stop Start
to the edge. Release the backstitch lever and
complete the seam. At the end of the seam,
sew to the edge, then press the backstitch
lever or button and sew back 1/2”. Raise the Stop
Start
needle and the presser foot. Clip the thread
close to the fabric. Sew the other two towel A. Sew the Two Thicknesses Together
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At the bottom cut off excess elastic, turn
under as with the top end, and stitch across
the turned-under end of the elastic three times.
Clip the threads close to the towel.
5. To anchor scissors, sew two 12” ribbon ties
1” above the scissors pocket edge to keep the
scissors in place. Do this by folding the ribbon
C. Attaching the Elastic and Ribbon
in half, creasing with your thumbnail. Pin it in
place and sew across the crease three times
(see C).
6. On the outside, sew through the middle of
1-yard lengths of ribbon as you did with the
scissors’ ribbon tie. The ribbon ties should
be located on the ribbing of the towel on the
opposite end from the spools (see D). Be sure
to sew the tie over a pocket seam so as not to
sew your pocket shut.
7. Insert your sewing tools (see E) and roll the
towel from the spool end. Tie the ribbons to D. Attaching the Longer Ribbons
secure the sewing kit.
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Butcher’s Apron the strip and then fold the sides in to meet in the
Supplies: middle and press again. Sew around the strap close
• 1 yard fabric to the edges, pivoting at the corners.
• Matching thread For the waist ties:
• Pattern (dimensions below, left) 4. Press in one short end of each tie ¼ inch to the
• Cut 2 strips - 18” long and 3” wide wrong side of the fabric.
• Cut one strip 16” long and 3” wide Fold each strip in half lengthwise and press, open
the strip and then fold the sides in to meet in the
• Cut one Apron front middle and press again. Sew around the strap close
1. On the diagonal cuts/sides of the apron front, to the edges, pivoting at the corners.
press the edge ¼ inch to the wrong side of the Attaching the neck strap:
fabric, turn another ¼ inch and press and pin.
Sew the two diagonal sides as close to the inside 5. Pin the neck strap on the left corner of the top
edge as possible. Do the same thing to both of the of the apron, with the end of the strap even with
straight sides of the apron and sew them. Now the hem edge. Do the same thing on the right.
turn the hem up ¼ inch, press. Turn up another Use the hem stitching at the top of the apron as a
¼ inch, press, pin and sew as close to the outside guide. Back stitch at both ends of each strap. Sew
edge as possible. across the top of the apron where the straps are
attached, ¼ inch from the edge so that the straps
2. Turn and press the top edge one inch and then are attached at the top of the apron and at the
turn it another inch, press, pin and sew as close to hem line.
the bottom edge as possible.
Attaching ties:
For the neck strap:
6. Pin the unfinished end of a tie to the apron on
3. Press in each short end of the neck strap ¼ inch each side. Sew across the end of each tie on the
to the wrong side of the fabric. right side of the apron, use the previous stitching as
Fold the strap in half lengthwise and press, open a guide. Then sew across the tie close to the edge.
5”
16”x3” strip for neck strap
11”
18”x3” strips for waist ties
Apron front
28” 20”
Place on fold
of fabric
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Practice Corners (duplicate)
See page 9.
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