Reviewer in TLE

Use of Sewing Tools

Measuring Tools

Tape Measure – A flexible measuring device used in taking body measurements. The front has the
measurement of 150 centimeters and 60 inches on the other side. Fiberglass tape is commonly used by
dressmakers.

Sewing Gauge – A small ruler with a sliding guide and is about six inches long. This gauge is used for
measurements at hem lines, button holes and areas where other small measurements require checking,
such as pleats and tucks. The gauge is usually made of metal or plastic.

Rulers – A ruler measuring 12 inches or even 18 inches, either clear or solid. It is a useful tool to have for
measuring and drawing straight seam lines and cutting lines. It also aids in connecting lines. A clear ruler
is also a good tool for marking buttonholes.

Yardstick – A yardstick is made of smooth, shellacked hardwood or metal. It is used for marking
hemlines and checking grainlines when laying out the pattern.

L-Square – The tailor square or "L" is used to transfer measurements to the draft pattern. It also divides
the garment into the desired measurement. It has perfect squares and is useful in making straight lines
and numbers. It can also function as a tape measure.

It has two arms connected perpendicularly.

a. The longer arm is twenty-four (24) inches long.

b. The shorter arm is fourteen (14) inches long.

French Curve – This is used to shape the depth of the neckhole and armhole of the pattern.

Cutting Tools

Bent-handled dressmaker’s shears – These are made of quality steel and hold a sharp cutting edge. The
blades move easily and cut smoothly along the entire length and the points should come together.

Shears have the length of 7- 12 inches and are satisfactory for most apparel fabrics.

a. All steels, chrome-plated shears are for heavy duty cutting.

b. Stainless steel blades and plastic handles are fine for lightweight fabrics.
c. A serrated edge shears give maximum cutting control and is used for synthetic fibers and
slippery knits

Pinking Shears – This is popular in zigzagging or scalloped edge or for seam finishes. This is used to finish
seams and raw edges and to create decorative edges on many types of fabric. It cuts a ravel-resistant
edge. This is not satisfactory for straight cutting.

Trimming scissor – It is 3-4 inches long. It is used for trimmings, clipping threads and snipping slashes.

Embroidery scissor – It has 4-5 inches finely tapered blades. Both points are sharp for use in working
with fine details in delicate fabrics and in embroidery work.
Buttonhole scissor – This is intended for making buttonholes.

Thread clippers – Are a handy little spring loaded cutting tool that allows for the snipping of threads.
These clippers are specifically used to snip threads and they are not designed to cut fabric.

Seam rippers – Are specifically designed for ripping out stitches from seams, either as a result of an error
or during alterations. They should be used carefully to prevent damage to the fabric.

Rotary Cutter and Mat – It is an adaptation of the giant rotary cutter used by the garment industry. It
works like a pizza cutter and can be used by left or right-handed sewers. The rotary cutter is available in
different sizes with different blades. When using a rotary cutter, work on a cutting mat to protect the
blade and the cutting surface.

Marking Tools

Liquid marking pens – This is available in white or pastel shades. This chalk pencil is used to make fine
lines on fabric. It has an erasing brush at one end. Liquid marking pens come in two types. There is one
that washes out and one that fades after 48 hours. Those that wash out should not be used on fabric
that show water marks. The mark should be removed before pressing the fabric.

Tailor’s chalk – This is essential as a marker for use on materials. Tailor‘s chalk is available in a range of
colors and is Removed by brushing.

Wax chalk – This is available in black or white and is used for woolen fabrics. Wax can be removed by
pressing.

Tracing wheels – There are two types of tracing wheels, those with a serrated edge and those with a
smooth edge. The serrated edge wheel produces dots on the fabric and is suitable for most types of
fabrics. The smooth edge wheel is best for delicate fabrics and unlike the serrated edge will not pierce
more delicate fabrics. The smooth edge wheel creates a solid line.

Dressmaker’s carbon paper – Dressmaker‘s carbon paper also called dressmaker‘s tracing paper is a
specially waxed carbon paper that transfer‘s the tracing wheel‘s markings to the fabric. A color of tracing
paper should be chosen that is close to the color of the fabric. Different brands of tracing paper have
different instructions; therefore, the instructions for the particular brand that is purchased should be
followed.

Pinning and Sewing Tools

Pincushion – A pincushion holds the straight pins and needles while working to prevent accidents.

Hand Needle – Used in making temporary stitches and buttonholes. Sizes of 7 to 10 are for general hand
sewing.

Sewing Needle Threader – It aids in putting the thread to the needle. It consists of two parts. The handle
and the wire. The end of the wire that is away from the holder is folded. Place the folded wire of the
needle threader through the eye of the sewing needle.

Thimble – A small hard pitted cup worn for protection on the finger that pushes the needle in sewing.
Materials

Fabric – The Fabric is the cloth used in making garments. The plain cotton fabrics, flour sack or catcha is
the most appropriate material for beginners because these are very easy to handle.

Thread – The thread is used in assembling or constructing the parts of the garment. Threads vary in
sizes. Heavy fabrics need stronger threads. Threads should have the same color with that of the fabric
used.

Types of Sewing Machines

Lockstitch Sewing Machine – This is usually used in homes and sometimes in school. This is also called
Domestic Sewing Machine. It is run by foot and may also be converted to electric power machine

Hi-Speed Lockstitch Sewing Machine – This is sometimes called „straight stitching machine‖ or industrial
sewing machine. It has automatic lubrication and is used by tailors and dressmakers

Over Edging Machine – Other companies call it small machine. It finishes the raw edges of the pattern
for construction.

Embroidery Machine – This is used in making fancy stitches and in making different kinds of embroidery
stitches on fabrics for the Barong Tagalog, pillow cases, linen, and other novelty items.

Button Holer Machine – This is used in making buttonholes on garments.

Button Attachment Machine – This is used in attaching buttons to the garments.

Double Needle Machine – This is used in the construction of the different kinds of clothing especially for
the inseam, outseam and side seam.

Bartacking Machine – This is used in reinforcing the opening and closing of pockets.

Carry out measurements and calculations

Parts of body to be measured can be taken in:

• Horizontal measurement
• Vertical measurement
• Circumferential measurement
1. The horizontal measurement is taken from the left of the figure to the right.
2. The vertical measurement is taken from the top of the body figure to its base.
3. Circumferential measurement is taken around the body.

Neck

− Loosely measure around the circumference at the base of your neck.

Bust
 − Lift your arms to the side. Measure around your body crossing over the fullest part of your bust.
(The tape measure must run directly over your nipples and across your shoulder blades on your
back).

Bust to Bust

− Measure from your one nipple to your other nipple.

Upper Bust

− Measure around the torso directly above the bust line. From armhole to armhole +- 8cm down
from neck.

Lower Bust

− Measure around the torso directly under the bustline.

Waist

− Measure around the waist at the narrowest natural waistline point, allowing 2 fingers between
your waist and tape measure.

Hips

− Measure around the fullest part of your hips. As a guide, this is often 20cm below your natural
waistline. Stand with your knees together.

Shoulder to Bust

− Measure from tip of the shoulder to the centre of bust (nipple).

Front Shoulder to Waist

− Measure from tip of shoulder over bust to natural waistline.

Shoulder to Shoulder

− Measure across the back of neck from socket of one shoulder to socket of the other shoulder.

Shoulder to Neck

− Measure from base of neck along top of shoulder to the shoulder socket.

Down Center Back

− Measure from nape of neck to natural waist.

Back Shoulder to Waist

− Measure from tip of shoulder to natural waist line.

Across Back
 − Measure from armhole across back to armhole positioning tape measure + - 8cm down from
nape of neck.

Full Back

− Measure from side seam, under armpits to side seam across back, positioning tape measure +-
4cm down under armpit.

Sleeve Hole

− Measure around the shoulder under the armpit.

Bicep

− Measure around the fullest part of the upper arm.

Elbow

− Do a fairly loose measurement around the bent elbow.

Under Arm

− Measure from under the arm. Start at the armpit to the wrist.

Over Arm

− Measure from outer shoulder socket on outside of arm, with a bent arm, to the wrist.

Upper Arm

− Measure from the outer shoulder socket on outside of arm to crook of elbow.

Side Seam

− Measure from under armpit to natural waistline down.

Men’s Apparel (Measurement)

A. Vertical Measurement

Shirt length

− Taken from the nape down the center back to the desired length.

Sleeve length

− Taken from the shoulder tip point down to the desired sleeve length.

Length of pants or shorts

− Measures along the side below the waist band to the desired length of the pants

Crotch or Rise
 − Measured by placing a ruler under the crotch then measuring below the waistband down to the
top of the level of the ruler.

B. Horizontal Measurements

Shoulder

− Taken from one shoulder point to the other.

Bust/Breast

− Taken around the body with the tape measure passing over the fullest part of the shoulder
blade at the back and over to the apex.

Upper arm girth

− Taken around the fullest part of the arm in line with the armpit.

Lower arm girth or sleeve width

− Taken around the arm two to three inches below the armpit.

Neck measure

− Taken around the neckline.

Waist (w)

− Taken around the smallest part of the waistline. Insert two fingers under the tape measure for
ease or allowance.

Hip or seat (H)

− Taken around the fullest part of the hip (buttocks) with two fingers inserted under the tape
measure.

Desired Bottom or Hem Circumference or leg hole

− Taken around the fullest part of the bottom.

Shoulder

− Taken from one shoulder point to the other.

Principles of Design

− The Principles of Designs are concepts used to organize or arrange the structural elements of
design. These the ways in which these principles are applied the affects the expressive content,
or the message of the work.
Balance – According to this principle, from the centered of the dress, design should be identified on both
sides may be achieved ways:

a. Symmetrically or the formal balance – Can be described as having equal "weight" on equal
sides of a centrally placed like a see saw. This is an easy way of balancing but such balance lends
monotony to the design.
b. Asymmetrically or the informal balance – When The structure decoration and accessories are
different both sides from the center of the design. In this design attraction both sides is created
by using different accessories.

Proportion – Is the pleasing relationship of all parts of the object with one another. Proportion refers to
the relative size and scale of the various elements in a design. The issue is the relationship between
objects, or parts, of a whole.

Emphasis – Every pleasing design has one part that is more interesting than any other. This is the
emphasis or the center of interest.

Rhythm – Tare smooth movement repeated again and again. Rhythm is an important principle of art. It
is created by repeated use of the design. If there is rhythm in a design, the eye would move easily from
one part to the other.

Rhythm can be created in three ways in a design:

a. Repetition of Lines, Colors, or Accessories. Parallel Lines are formed by the use of seams,
buttons, embroidery, lace, etc. Which helps uninterrupted eye movement.
b. Radiation. Rhythm can also be created by the radiated lines. These lines are created by gathers
eyes can move easily from one part to the other on the small lines created by gathers. Such lines
can be seen in gathers on neckline, arm and skirt.
c. Gradiation. Rhythm can be created by gradual change of lines, shape or shade of the color.

Harmony – Means a relationship of different portion of a design. Harmony should be achieved through
judicious use of color, shape, and texture to give a feeling of oneness.