08/10/2024, 23:10 Hedge Witch Hat Pattern | Morale Fiber

Hedge Witch Hat Pattern

OCTOBER 7, 2019AUGUST 26, 2024 / REGINAALEXISWEISS

Sounds trendy to talk about how much you love Halloween these
days, but like, I really love Halloween guys. No trend shame here.
That’s why despite the myriad and awesome crochet witch hat
patterns out there, I had to design my own. I wanted a certain
look and after a few tries, I really like what I came up with!

UPDATE 5/28/20 I’ve also added a

purchasable, downloadable, ad-free
PDF for this pattern in my Etsy Shop
(https://www.etsy.com/listing/816147447/crochet-
pattern-hedge-witch-hat-cute?
ref=listing_published_alert), Ko-fi
Shop (https://ko-
fi.com/s/c5a429d04f), and Ravelry

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Store
(https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/hedge-
witch-hat)! ❤ thank you!

This free crochet pattern works with worsted weight yarn in half
double stitches, and utilizes the Switchback Join technique to
keep the seam straight, which you can find in this free tutorial on
my blog (https://atomic-temporary-
83250059.wpcomstaging.com/2019/10/02/switchback-join-
tutorial/)!

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Please excuse the fact that I had way too much fun creating a
vintage witch photoshoot 😉

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Hedge Witch Hat

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Show Above: Type A

Materials:
3.75 mm hk
#4 weight yarn – Approximately 200-250 yds

Gauge: 4 sts & 3 rows – 1” in hdc

Finished measurements: ~ 25″ on the inside, 36″ brim on the

outside, 9-10″ height

Types: A (Pointier, black & dark gray versions), B (Rounder, light

gray and tan versions)

(Show above: Type B. Also wearing the Embla Vest

(https://atomic-temporary-
83250059.wpcomstaging.com/2019/11/22/embla-vest-pattern/)!

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Show above: Type B

Stitches (sts) & Abbreviations

half-double crochet (hdc)
slip stitch (sl st)
chain (ch)
back loop only (BLO)
round (rnd)
each (ea)

Special Techniques & Notes:

The Switchback Join

This pattern uses a special join to keep the

seam straight. This technique uses a system of
backward and forward positioning, alternating on
each row. The end of each backward row is
joined by slip stitching forward by one stitch in a
special way, as shown in my free tutorial which
can be accessed here on my blog.
(https://moralefiber.blog/2019/10/02/switchback-
join-tutorial/)
The Switchback Join method is marked on the
pattern instructions to keep track. This join must
be used if you want the curves of the hat
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positioned correctly. If you want a knobbly chaos

witch hat, feel free to skip!

Notes: All tutorial images appear after the written instructions

they are depicting

Instructions, Type A:

Rnd 1 (back): hdc 8 into magic ring. Join with a sl st

Rnd 2 (forward): 1 hdc in ea st. Join with a slip st to first hdc of

the rnd. – 8 sts

Rnd 3 (back): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the same
st. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next st) 3
times. Join with a sl st. – 12 sts

Rnd 4 (forward): Ch1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the
same st, 1 hdc in the next st. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of
the next 2 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 16
sts

Rnd 5 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the

same st, 1 hdc in ea of the next 2 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in
ea of the next 3 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st.
– 20 sts

Rnd 6 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the

same st and in ea of the next 3 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea
of the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 3 times. Join with a sl st. – 24
sts

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Rnd 7 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st

around. Join with a sl st. – 24 sts

Rnd 8 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st

around. Join with a sl st. – 24 sts

Rnd 9 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the

same st. (2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12
sts. (2 hdc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 36 sts

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The first 6 increases

Hdc in the next 12 sts

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Increase in the last 6 sts

Rnd 10 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st
around. Join with a sl st. – 36 sts

Rnd 11 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea

st around. Join with a sl st. – 36 sts

Rnd 12 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the

same st. (2 hdc in the next st) 8 times. 1 hdc in ea of the next 18
sts. (2 hdc in the next st) 9 times. Join with a sl st. – 54 sts

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The curve of the hat will be offset from concentrating the

increases on one side

Rnd 13 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea

st around. Join with a sl st. – 54 sts

Rnd 14 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the

same st, 1 hdc in ea of the next 7 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in
ea of the next 8 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. –
60 sts

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Rnd 15 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea

st around. Join with a sl st. – 60 sts

Rnd 16 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the

same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in
ea of the next 9 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. –
66 sts

Rnd 17 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea

st around. Join with a sl st. – 66 sts

Rnd 18 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the

same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in
ea of the next 10 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st.
– 72 sts

Rnd 19 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea

st around. Join with a sl st. – 72 sts

Rnd 20 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the

same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc
in ea of the next 11 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl
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st. – 78 sts

Rnd 21 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea

st around. Join with a sl st. – 78 sts

Rnd 22 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the

same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 11 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc
in ea of the next 12 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl
st. – 84 sts

Rnd 23 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea

st around. Join with a sl st. – 84 sts

Rnd 24 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the

same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc
in ea of the next 13 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl
st. – 90 sts

Rnd 25 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea

st around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts

Rnd 26 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st

around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts

Rnd 27 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea

st around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts

Rnd 28 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st

around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts

Rnd 29 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the

same st. 1 hdc in the next 3 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in ea of
the next 4 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. (1 hdc in ea of the next
14 sts. 2 hdc in the next st) twice. (1 hdc in ea of the next 4 sts, 2
hdc in the next st) 6 times. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 104 sts

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The curve of the hat is offset again by concentrating the increases

on 2/3rds of the hat

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Rnd 30 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the

same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 11 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc
in ea of the next 12 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl
st. – 112 sts

Rnd 31 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the

same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc
in ea of the next 13 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Sl st in the
BLO of the next st. – 120 sts

Rnd 32 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the

same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 13 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc
in ea of the next 14 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl
st. – 128 sts

Rnd 33 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in

the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 14 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1
hdc in ea of the next 15 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Sl st in the
BLO of the next st. – 136 sts

Rnd 34 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the

same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 15 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc
in ea of the next 16 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Join with a sl
st. – 144 sts

Rnd 35 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea

st around. Join with a sl st. – 144 sts

Rnd 36: Sl st in ea st around.

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Weave in all ends to finish. I used some spare chenille yarn and a
larger hook to double chain (https://atomic-temporary-
83250059.wpcomstaging.com/2015/03/07/double-chain-tutorial/) a
thin hat band. These hats would be really cute with extras like
felted leaves or buttons – I may have to make some more!

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Instructions: Type B

Rnd 1 (back): Ch 1. Hdc 8 into magic ring. Join with a sl st. Sl st in

the BLO of the next st.

Rnd 2 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st.

Join with a slip st to first hdc of the rnd. – 8 sts

Rnd 3 (back): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the same
st. 2 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 4 sts. 2 hdc in ea of
the next 2 sts. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 12
sts

Rnd 4 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the

same st. 2 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts. 2 hdc in
ea of the next 2 sts. Join with a sl st. – 16 sts

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Rnd 5 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the

same st. 2 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. 2 hdc in
ea of the next 2 sts. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st.
– 20 sts

Rnd 6 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the

same st. 2 hdc in the next st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 16 sts. 2 hdc in
ea of the next 2 sts. Join with a sl st. – 24 sts

Rnd 7 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st

around. Join with a sl st. Sls t in the BLO of the next st. – 24 sts

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Rnd 8 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the

same st. (2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12
sts. (2 hdc in the next st) 6 times. Join with a sl st. – 36 sts

Rnd 9 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st

around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 36 sts

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Rnd 10 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 2 hdc in the

same st. (2 hdc in the next st) 8 times. 1 hdc in ea of the next 18
sts. (2 hdc in the next st) 9 times. Join with a sl st. – 54 sts

Rnd 11 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea

st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st.– 54 sts

Rnd 12 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the

same st, 1 hdc in ea of the next 7 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in
ea of the next 8 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. –
60 sts

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Rnd 13 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea

st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 60 sts

Rnd 14 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the

same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in
ea of the next 9 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st. –
66 sts

Rnd 15 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea

st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st.– 66 sts

Rnd 16 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the

same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 9 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc in
ea of the next 10 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl st.
– 72 sts

Rnd 17 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea

st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st.– 72 sts

Rnd 18 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the

same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 10 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc
in ea of the next 11 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl
st. – 78 sts

Rnd 19 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea

st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 78 sts

Rnd 20 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the

same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 11 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc
in ea of the next 12 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl
st. – 84 sts

Rnd 21 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea

st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 84 sts

Rnd 22 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in the

same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 12 sts. 2 hdc in the next st. (1 hdc
in ea of the next 13 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 5 times. Join with a sl
st. – 90 sts

Rnd 23 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea

st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 90 sts

Rnd 24 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st

around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts

Rnd 25 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea

st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st. – 90 sts

Rnd 26 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st

around. Join with a sl st. – 90 sts

Rnd 27 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea

st around. Join with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st.– 90 sts

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Rnd 28 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in ea st

around. Join with a sl st.

Resume pattern at Round 29 for Type A and complete the

instructions from there onward.

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For more Halloween themed crochet patterns and tutorials, check

out these:

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(https://moralefiber.blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/witch3-
2.jpg)
Classic Witch Hat (https://moralefiber.blog/2020/09/02/witch-hat-
pattern/)

Crochet Pumpkin (https://moralefiber.blog/2017/10/07/halloween-

special-crochet-pumpkin/) project

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08/10/2024, 23:10 Hedge Witch Hat Pattern | Morale Fiber

Jack-O-Lantern Mushroom crochet pattern

(https://moralefiber.blog/2017/10/10/glow-in-the-dark-mushroom-
free-pattern/)

And of course, I have tons more free patterns available – if you

would like to check them out, visit my Free Pattern page
(https://moralefiber.blog/free-patterns/)!

❤ MF

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Crochet, Patterns, Tutorials

CROCHET PATTERN , FREE , FREE PATTERN ,
FREE TUTORIAL , HALLOWEEN , HAT

100 thoughts on “Hedge Witch

Hat Pattern”

1. Amanda Richard
OCTOBER 25, 2019 AT 10:09 PM
Hey, so good pattern, however it is way too big for my head (i
dont really have alot of hair) any tips on how to make it a bit
more snug?

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
OCTOBER 26, 2019 AT 6:07 AM

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Certainly! You can work this pattern up to Round 19 –

depending on the yarn and gauge, this round might be big
enough (I’m making one right now with double strands
where I stopped increasing at Round 19). Or, you can work
to Round 21 and then stop increasing, or work to Round 23
and then stop increasing. Ending increasing at these
rounds will give you more size options (the fewer rounds
with increase the smaller it will be). After that, you can
skip to Rounds 25-28 to finish the length of the hat, or add
a few rounds there without increasing if the hat isn’t long
enough (since you skipped earlier rows). Then you can
work the brim! 🙂

REPLY
2. Pingback: Costume Mega Tail | Morale Fiber

3. Pingback: Switchback Join Tutorial | Morale Fiber

4. Cearshafire
NOVEMBER 27, 2019 AT 12:28 PM
Sooo cute! Can’t wait to try it!

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
NOVEMBER 27, 2019 AT 12:44 PM
Thank you! I am working on a two-stranded version too
😉
REPLY
Analaya
FEBRUARY 22, 2022 AT 11:31 AM
I Iove this so much and I’m making it in a burnt saffron
ish color to wear all year round 😀 I may add a vine
brim braid thing to go around it with small flowers. I’m
so excited!! Thank you so much for sharing this!

reginaalexisweiss
FEBRUARY 24, 2022 AT 7:13 AM
Ooh that sounds absolutely lovely! And I love saffron
color, burnt orange, persimmon, whatever you call it –
divine! ❤

5. jan
JANUARY 9, 2020 AT 9:55 PM
…hey chicky…I love this pattern and I am in the process of
making it…but im only a beginner. so I stopped increasing in
round 23 as yooh stated which left me at 84 sts. so now im at
round 29 and I don’t know how to continue from there as far
as figuring out how many stitches to increase to the end of the
pattern…pleeeese help me..
thank yooh
jan

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REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
JANUARY 10, 2020 AT 4:39 AM
Hi Jan! What I would do is add one more round (or use
round 29) to add just 6 more stitches to your total to bring
the hat up to the 90 stitches you should have in round 28.
That way the majority of the hat is your size but you can
add the the stitches now so that increased size becomes
part of your brim instead of your hat band size. Then you
can continue with your increasing as normal 🙂

REPLY
6. jan
JANUARY 10, 2020 AT 9:44 AM
…hey chicky… omg…that makes total sense…I will certainly
do that…thank yooh so very much for replying…
jan

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
JANUARY 10, 2020 AT 12:26 PM
Absolutely!! 🙂 🙂 🙂

REPLY
7. malicetrebek
JANUARY 17, 2020 AT 10:43 AM
The Switchback Join Tutorial has Round 2 & even rounds as
the backward leaning rounds. This pattern has Round 1 & odd
rounds as the backward leaning round. For this pattern, at the
end of Round 1, should I join with a slip stitch, then skip one
more stitch and add an extra at the end of the Round r to
make up for it or at the end of Round 1, join by working a slip
stitch in the first st, ch 1 & hdc in the same stitch to begin next
Round 2?

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
JANUARY 18, 2020 AT 4:02 AM
Yes, the pattern of backward & forward on this pattern is
different than the Demo – the pattern written should be
right, but I’ll double check. Honestly it wouldn’t make a
big difference either way for this design, as long as you
alternate backward and forward rounds in some way 🙂

REPLY
malicetrebek
JANUARY 18, 2020 AT 1:34 PM
Thank you much! Got it.
You told Amanda Richard “After that, you can skip to
Rounds 25-28 to finish the length of the hat”
Do you mean to literally skip Rounds 20-24 by doing
Round 19 & then Round 25 immediately after that
OR
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continue making all of the rounds, just skipping the

increases that are in Rounds 20-24?
Also, what size hook are you using for double strands?
Take care!
reginaalexisweiss
JANUARY 19, 2020 AT 10:59 AM
“After that, you can skip to Rounds 25-28 to finish the
length of the hat, or add a few rounds there without
increasing if the hat isn’t long enough (since you
skipped earlier rows).”

I think I meant literally skip them, lol, but that’s more

viable if you are working up to Rounds 21 or 23. If you
stop increasing at Rnd 19 you’ll need more rounds that
just work even without increasing if the hat isn’t long
enough. Sorry it took me some time to decipher what I
was talking about 😀 Hopefully that makes sense. For
the double stranded hat I remained at the hook size
recommended for this pattern, and just struggled along
with a too-small hook.
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9. Alix
APRIL 23, 2020 AT 7:39 AM
hi! i’m considering making one of these, but i don’t have the
right yarn. I was wondering about how much you used, so i
can buy enough skeins 🙂

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
APRIL 23, 2020 AT 7:53 AM
Hi Alix! I am not sure exactly but I would estimate that 250
yards should cover it 🙂

REPLY
Alix
APRIL 23, 2020 AT 11:42 AM
Thank you very much!

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11. Moire
JUNE 9, 2020 AT 4:50 AM
Hi! Just wondering how the switchback join works with this
pattern, as most of the backrounds start with Ch1 then HDC
in same stitch, when the switchback start calls for Ch1, skip
next stitch, those two instructions don’t seem to have a way to
work together, unless I’m missing something obvious 😅
Thanks in advance for your clarification, I LOVE this pattern
and really REALLY wanna make it

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss

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JUNE 9, 2020 AT 5:36 AM

Hi Moire! That’s a great question – the two do work
together, I’ll try to explain a little here! 🙂 The Switchback
join works with alternating Backward and Forward
rounds, of course. Each backward round starts with Ch 1,
which doesn’t count as the first stitch, then 1 hdc in the
same stitch. That’s the round that is worked like a normal
crochet round.

The forward round starts by making an extra slip stitch in

the very first stitch of the round. So you slip stitch to finish
& join the backward round, and then make another slip
stitch in the back loop only (BLO) of the very next stitch,
which is the first stitch of the next round (would have been
the second stitch if it had been a backward round). So your
slip stitch join occupies & replaces what would have been
the first stitch of the round, and you start the round by
chaining and hdc in the next stitch. Then at the end of the
round, you make your final stitch in the slip stitch join,
which now counts as the last stitch instead of the first 🙂

The instructions for this process are written a little clearer

in the PDF version of the pattern than in the blog post – I’ll
have to get that updated soon! I hope that helps and let me
know if you still have questions!

REPLY
Moire
JUNE 9, 2020 AT 6:55 AM
Thanks so much, this really helps 😊

reginaalexisweiss
JUNE 9, 2020 AT 7:38 AM
Awesome! ❤ ❤
12. Elisha
AUGUST 2, 2020 AT 1:50 PM
Since the update in the pattern, I’m having trouble. Around
row 32, I seem to have extra stitches at the end of the row. Can
some please verify if I’m doing something wrong, or if there is
a mistake in the pattern?

I also found that I can’t figure out the switchback join

technique, due to the mistake in the tutorial. Can you upload a
fixed version without the mistake so I can figure it out, please?
Thank you!

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
AUGUST 3, 2020 AT 8:36 AM
Hi Elisha, how many extra stitches are you coming up with
in Row 32? I will double check the pattern there. As for the
tutorial, can you specify where you are finding a mistake?
Thanks! 🙂
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REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
AUGUST 3, 2020 AT 8:42 AM
Also, were you working Type A or Type B?
I checked up on the tutorial and I think maybe you are
referring to the “mistake” at the first round, here’s the text:
“Rnd 1: You can and probably should count this as the first
round, meaning it will be an A or backward leaning round,
although I have to admit that I didn’t – oops. That will set
me off-center slightly but it won’t matter much. ”
This isn’t really a mistake one way or the other, you can
either count that round or not count it as your first forward
or backward round. It really doesn’t matter, as long as you
alternate forward and backward rounds, your seam will
stay straight 🙂 If that’s not the part you’re having trouble
with, let me know!

REPLY
Elisha
SEPTEMBER 2, 2020 AT 9:50 AM
I managed to finish. But I’m going to try again. I want
to get it right!!! I will let you know if I run into trouble
again.

reginaalexisweiss
SEPTEMBER 2, 2020 AT 9:53 AM
Ok great! It’s a bit of a fiddly pattern but hopefully it
came out good – definitely let me know! 🙂
13. Kristina
AUGUST 31, 2020 AT 4:26 PM
Wow! What a fun pattern to make. However I am confused
about the final rows for version A:

Rnd 34 (forward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in

the same st. 1 hdc in ea of the next 15 sts. 2 hdc in the next st.
(1 hdc in ea of the next 16 sts, 2 hdc in the next st) 7 times. Join
with a sl st. – 144 sts

Rnd 35 (backward): Ch 1 (does not count as first hdc). 1 hdc in

ea st around. Join with a sl st. – 136 sts

How can it end with 136 stitches when the prior row has 144?
I’m sooo close to being done lol but can’t figure out how to
lose those 8 extra stitches.
Thank you

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
SEPTEMBER 1, 2020 AT 5:10 AM
Oh, sorry about that! It looks like one of those counts is
wrong – left over from the first version of the pattern 🙂
144 should be the correct count!

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REPLY
Kristina
SEPTEMBER 1, 2020 AT 4:04 PM
Thank you for the swift response I really appreciate it! I
actually went ahead & finished and it came out
perfectly, can’t wait to wear it.

reginaalexisweiss
SEPTEMBER 2, 2020 AT 5:54 AM
Oh awesome! ❤ ❤ Yay! 🙂
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15. Deborah Dalum

SEPTEMBER 2, 2020 AT 2:31 PM
Would this pattern work JUST as well “in a continuous round
with NO join And no beginning chains? Will a seam show
with this method?

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
SEPTEMBER 3, 2020 AT 6:00 AM
Hi Deborah! You could definitely do this pattern in the
round without joining, but the problem with doing it that
way is that crochet stitch tends to lean toward the direction
of the dominant hand. So if you worked the entire pattern
without the switchback join, the way that the shaping lines
up will slant further and further right for every round (if
you’re right handed) and your hat won’t have the bulges &
bends all occurring in the same place at the back of the hat.

However, as I mentioned in the notes, you can still skip the

switchback join and do one of the regular joins for this hat
if you really prefer and end up with just a little more
crazy-looking hat! 🙂 A continuous join would get rid of
the seam, too 🙂

REPLY
16. Caitlin Bowles
SEPTEMBER 9, 2020 AT 11:37 AM
I made it, its xute, not fully sure if I did it right. How do you
make a hat band? Was there turns when you went to the next
row? Was there a full row of slip stitch in BLO parts of the
pattern?

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
SEPTEMBER 9, 2020 AT 11:45 AM
Hi Caitlin! I made the hat band by chaining a length of
stitches and then working back down the chain in single
crochet – I just estimated the amount needed by holding it
up to the hat 🙂
This piece is worked continuously in the round, so there
are no turns in the pattern or any rows that consist entirely
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of slip stitches – if your hat isn’t looking quite like the

picture, you may have missed that Switchback Join
method is required to make the hat look like the picture
(it’s mentioned in the notes and there’s a tutorial link for
how to work this join).
Though the method is written into the pattern instructions,
it may take a full viewing of the tutorial to fully
understand how it should be working in this project. 🙂
Thanks and I hope that helps!
REPLY
17. Nicole
SEPTEMBER 14, 2020 AT 8:23 PM
What yarn did you use?

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
SEPTEMBER 15, 2020 AT 11:33 AM
Hi Nicole! I use almost any #4 weight acrylic yarn for
these, such as Red Heart SS or I Love This Yarn! But be
sure to check your gauge before starting 🙂

REPLY
18. justiceforchildrenofabusedmothers
SEPTEMBER 20, 2020 AT 8:26 PM
Trying to mod this for my 2 year old daughter (she loves my
modern witch hats but of course they dont fit) any tips on
scaling it down that much..? I tried on my own it turned out
wonky and bubbly. TIA love the array of patterns.! Cant wait
to do them all 🥰🙃🥰

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
SEPTEMBER 21, 2020 AT 8:09 AM
Oh so cute! I’m not sure about sizing it down by the stitch
counts, but I’ll bet you can get a small one easiest by sizing
down your hook and yarn! I saw someone on Instagram
get a pretty small one by using a #3 weight yarn instead of
a #4 weight 🙂

REPLY
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20. Dani
OCTOBER 7, 2020 AT 12:26 PM
Hi there,

I have a big of a bigger head. How might I adjust this to fit

me? 🙂

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
OCTOBER 8, 2020 AT 5:21 AM

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Hi Dani! You’ll have to work extra rounds of increases after

Round 24. To do that, you add 6 more stitches each round
as you had already been doing, but do it until the inner
brim of the hat feels big enough to fit the intended head
🙂 After that, continue on with the Rounds (formerly 25-
28) that don’t increase. The next part will require some
math.

However many stitches you have, divide by 3 and

multiply by 2 – you will want to concentrate the increases
on 2/3rds of the hat to get the swayed brim of the original
on Round 29. If you don’t care to get that specific, you can
skip straight to the next part, which increases at a flat rate
as before, adding 8 stitches per row evenly placed, until
the flat brim is as big as you want.

You’ll probably end up having to smudge the math a little

but I hope that helps!

REPLY
21. Danielle Carroll
NOVEMBER 5, 2020 AT 8:49 AM
this may sound a bit dumb… but in the alternating rows are
you meant to also switch the direction of the crochet like in a
scarf? my join seems to be migrating to one side is all.

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
NOVEMBER 5, 2020 AT 9:53 AM
Hi Danielle- not a dumb question at all! You won’t be
turning like for a back-and-forth set of rows though, you’ll
be continuing to work all in the same direction. The
alternating join method (Switchback join) only refers to
moving the starting stitch one stitch forward, or leaving it
where it would normally be. If your join is skewing to one
side more heavily, your tension may be causing it to not be
balanced and that can be corrected by changing how much
you switch back and forth.

So if your join is leaning heavily to the side of your

dominant hand, do more joins that move the starting stitch
one stitch foward. If your joins are leaning to the side of
your non-dominant hand, do more joins that do not move
the starting stitch forward 🙂 Hope that helps!

REPLY
22. Julie Viator
MARCH 16, 2021 AT 10:27 AM
Hi Regina!
How did you attach the crochet hat band to your hat, please?
I was debating on sewing vs crocheting mine on and I bet you

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have already discovered the best method.

Many thanks!
Julie
REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
MARCH 17, 2021 AT 4:51 AM
Hi Julia! I definitely crocheted it separately and then sewed
it on 🙂 🙂 I like that method because crocheting it on can
end up a little wonky with tension sometimes! Thanks for
visiting ❤

REPLY
Julie Viator
MARCH 17, 2021 AT 5:31 AM
Thanks Regina, it’s a great pattern & super cute hat.
Keep up the great work!
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24. Sonia
SEPTEMBER 3, 2021 AT 12:45 PM
I love love this pattern. I am confuse with forward and back. Is
this pattern in round or joint and turn. I am sorry for the dum
question

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
SEPTEMBER 5, 2021 AT 6:38 AM
Hi Sonia! This pattern is worked in the round 🙂 the
Forward/Backward instructions refer to the Switchback
Join technique used in this pattern. Please refer to the notes
at the beginning g of the pattern for a full explaination/link
to tutorial 🙂

REPLY
25. Lisa Arkley
SEPTEMBER 9, 2021 AT 12:41 PM
Hi moralefiber, I was told about the pattern for the type A & B
hedge witch hat by my sister as I’ve taken up crocheting since
vivid hit the uk, and I was wondering if you were willing,
could you put a tutorial for these patterns on YouTube for
those of use who are left handed and don’t read patterns so
easily?
Much appreciated, Lisa A!

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
SEPTEMBER 10, 2021 AT 8:04 AM
Hi Lisa! I think that’s a great idea, one of the things I need
more of is lefty-friendly content 🙂 Thank you for the
suggestion, I will keep in in mind for the future 😊

REPLY
26. Andrea Cameron
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SEPTEMBER 23, 2021 AT 2:14 PM

Hello! I’m nearly done, and it’s looking cute! Before I
continue, where it says BLO, then work in the same stitch, do
you put the hdc in the back loop as well? Then do you
continue to work in BLO, or just for the second slip stitch?
Thank you 😃

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
SEPTEMBER 24, 2021 AT 9:50 AM
Great question! I only put the slip stitch in the back loop
only, the hdc goes into both loops – its just to make the slip
stitch a little less apparent 🙂 I’m so glad you are enjoying!

REPLY
27. Elene
SEPTEMBER 25, 2021 AT 5:14 PM
This is super cute, whimsical and yet practical too. I especially
appreciate projects where we get to learn new techniques
while making something fun. Thank you! I love your designs.
They’re unique in the sea of crochet that’s out there.

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
SEPTEMBER 26, 2021 AT 9:20 AM
Hi Elene and thank you so much for your kind feedback!
I’m so glad you like 🙂 🙂

REPLY
28. Skitty
SEPTEMBER 29, 2021 AT 4:42 PM
Hi, I had a question about Version A, Round 14. The
instructions only seem to over the first 50 st., but there are 54
stitches to work with. Do I just do 1hdc in the last 4 stitches
and sl or skip them?

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
OCTOBER 1, 2021 AT 9:08 AM
Hi there! I checked back to Rnd 14, Type A and I’m not
seeing a mistake in the numbers there, are you sure you
counted correctly? I have the following:
“1 hdc in the same st, 1 hdc in the next 7bsts, 2 hdc in the
next st” ( =10 sts total).
Then “(1 hdc in ea of the next 8 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 5
times” 10 sts per repeat x 5 repeats is 50 sts, plus the initial
10, = 60.

REPLY
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30. Rebecka
OCTOBER 23, 2021 AT 2:47 PM

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Hi there! After starting over a few times I finally got it and

have been having a lot of fun with this pattern. Just finished
round 19 (view A) but decided to look ahead a bit to see what
is coming. Which brings me to my question…

From 29 (backward) this bit starts to pop up at the end “Join

with a sl st. Sl st in the BLO of the next st”
the Sl st in the BLO comes after we’ve done the whole
switchback special stitch which goes under “join with a sl st”
correct? So it would be picking up the joining slip stitch into
the next BLO, and then slip stitching into the next BLO as
well?

Like I said I had to start over a few times, I have no idea

where I kept going wrong in the first few rounds, but I
decided to switch the meaning of back and forward rounds to
be able to follow the written tutorial for the join (meaning rnd
2 is really a backward round), to see if that would help. And I
don’t know if it was that or something else, but it did work
and it looks nice! Since I’m starting the “backwards” labelled
rounds with the special BLO loop pickup, should I move that
new “Sl st in the BLO of the next st” to match or is it more
important which number round that happens on?

Anyways, loving the pattern. Learning so much!

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
OCTOBER 25, 2021 AT 7:38 AM
Hi, that’s a great question! There should of be ONE slip
stitch ( in the BLO) at the beginning of each round, every
round through the whole hat. So that must be a typing
error or a repeat of instructions that slipped in somehow,
thanks so much for catching that!

REPLY
31. Doria
DECEMBER 14, 2021 AT 2:53 PM
Hi! How do you get the brim to stand out like
Pictured? The only thing I can think of is that On the rounds
where you slip into the BLO am I suppose to do the whole
round in the BLO?

Thanks

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
DECEMBER 15, 2021 AT 9:11 AM
Nope! I don’t do any rounds on the back loop only
entirely, the brim just stands that way from the
combination of my yarn (very stiff acrylic) and my tension
(i crochet very tightly) 🙂 You can try using starch on the
fabric or crocheting a wire into the brim to stiffen, too 🙂

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33. Jacqueline Marie Giordano

JULY 6, 2022 AT 8:57 AM
Hi Regina. As per usual, thank you SO much for this free
pattern! I saw something like this in an ad, and thought “I can
make this myself,” and low and behold a quick search for
witch hat patterns lead me right to you. I should have known!
LOL! Anyway, I’d like to make this as a summer sun hat, any
particular yarn you would recommend?

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
JULY 8, 2022 AT 10:43 AM
Hi Jacqueline! That’s so funny you mention, because I
designed this hat to match one I saw in those ads 😉 I own
one of them, and I used it as a template haha! I suspected
there would be other crocheters out there wanting to
recreate it. Anyway, I would want to try Lion Brand 24/7
Cotton for this project, although you might have to watch
your gauge for that one, I know for me my stitch would be
smaller in that yarn than in the acrylics. But I love that yarn
for summer outerwear, as it is 100% cotton and is a good
combination of durable and soft – I happened to look and
it’s on sale on their website right now, i hope that doesn’t
mean a discontinuation. I’ll include the link in case you
need it:
https://www.lionbrand.com/products/24-7-cotton

REPLY
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35. Pam Rush

SEPTEMBER 8, 2022 AT 3:57 AM
Hi! Thank you for this free pattern! So far I’m 11 rows in and I
am stumped on 12. I’m sorry if I sound stupid. I have tried 3
times but I’m only getting 30 stitches. I’m following the
pattern to a T. Is there something I’m missing? I’m working on
pattern B. Thank you again!

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
SEPTEMBER 8, 2022 AT 11:19 AM
Hi Pam! I can’t be sure, but I think I see where you are
coming up so short on stitches – the point where it says (2
hdc in the next st) 8 times means you will work 16 hdc
over the next 8 stitches. Same for part later in the row (2
hdc in next st) 9 times = 18 sts over the next 9 sts. So if you
didn’t get those repeats right, that would be almost 34
stitches too few in the row, which would be about what
you’re getting
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REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
SEPTEMBER 8, 2022 AT 11:20 AM
Also, no such thing as a stupid question here 🙂 🙂 glad
you asked and please let me know if that’s not the issue!

REPLY
36. vilnolin
SEPTEMBER 21, 2022 AT 11:24 AM
thanks again for an awesome pattern (i did the lotus duster
too, just need a model to get a picture). i’m making these as
winter hats with a yarn about a 5, and a 4mm hook, and it’s
sooooo cozy! great xmas gifts for my family!

however, even doing the switch back join, the beginning of the
row seems to be migrating left (i’m right handed). it seems to
be after i started the increases for the main body on pattern b.
like, you can see it moving and the join is a diagonal (if you
look really close). i’m on row 29 of the second hat, so i’m not
too fussed, but shouldn’t the seam be straight? i’m following
your switch back tutorial (sl into first stitch, sl in blo of next st
with the first sl off the hook, catch the it then work in the blo
st).

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
SEPTEMBER 22, 2022 AT 12:35 PM
Hi there and great question!! Okay, so the Switchback Join
actually does come with a caveat – in certain instances, in
certain gauges or tensions, the ration of Backward to
Forward rounds is actually not 50/50. Sometimes it’ll have
to be slipping in a Forward round every TWO rounds
instead of every OTHER round. This can be really hard to
predict because it depends on the hand tension of the
crocheter the most, so it’s not mentioned in the pattern. If
you want to straighten your seam out you may want to
throw some extra Backward rounds in and see what the
right ratio is for your tension.

Doing this shouldn’t mess up the increase placement too

much as long as you shoot for a straight-ish seam, the
shaping should line up more or less fine 🙂 🙂

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37. Evelyn Krull
OCTOBER 25, 2022 AT 8:43 PM
Wait im a little confused by CH1 are you meaning literal
chaining or like an increase?

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reginaalexisweiss
OCTOBER 27, 2022 AT 4:58 AM
Ch stands for chain stitch yes 🙂
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39. SweetClover
APRIL 3, 2023 AT 12:12 PM
I’m so excited I was finally able to get to this project. My mom
bought me some lovely wool yarn and I wanted to try felting
this pattern.

I used your cute little Krampus horn pattern to curl out the
point (ending Rnd: 25) and upped the gauge to the next sized
hook (4.25mm).

It’s adorable! Thanks for the pattern!

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reginaalexisweiss
APRIL 5, 2023 AT 9:23 AM
Oh that sounds like a totally charming twist (haha) to this
design! And felted too, are you on Instagram? If so I’d love
to see it, tag me if you want to ❤ ❤ Thank you so much
for the cool feedback

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40. Rhiannon
APRIL 17, 2023 AT 1:20 AM
I need some help. I have mostly completed the hat (not cut
from the skein yet) and it is too small. I followed the pattern
very carefully and I have a small head, but it is much too
small. Suggestions please

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
APRIL 17, 2023 AT 8:33 AM
Hi Rhiannon (I love your name 🙂 ) Did you do a gauge
swatch for this project? Is your gauge matching the
recommended gauge given for the pattern?

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41. Claudette
AUGUST 7, 2023 AT 12:55 AM
Just made this! Glad I checked the comments for how to make
it a bit smaller and it turned out perfect!! 🩷

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reginaalexisweiss
AUGUST 10, 2023 AT 11:02 AM
Yay so glad you liked! 🙂 Thanks for the feedback!

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42. Rachal
SEPTEMBER 4, 2023 AT 7:03 PM

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08/10/2024, 23:10 Hedge Witch Hat Pattern | Morale Fiber

My daughter wants this hat and I’m happy to make it for her,
but the switchback join is definitely throwing me off. You say
it’s written into the pattern – do you mean the actual process
or just which rows are which? Like, if I just follow the pattern
as written, will I be doing the join or do I have to consciously
add the steps for the join? If that makes sense!
Also, would using the join by Wilma (that you mentioned in
the switchback join blog) work as well for this pattern or no?
Thanks!

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
SEPTEMBER 5, 2023 AT 9:46 AM
Hi there and yes, Wilma’s strategy should work fine as a
substitute 🙂 For my switchback join, the manner of
joining is only marked in the pattern for the Hedge Witch
Hat as either a Forward round, or a Backward round, and
that’s marked at the beginning of the row. The actual step
by steps for the join aren’t written in specifically, so you’d
have to have a good handle on how the type of join works
since you’d be consciously using the Forward or Backward
label on the rows as a guide for which to do 🙂

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Rachal
SEPTEMBER 5, 2023 AT 2:03 PM
Thank you!
43. Maria
OCTOBER 27, 2023 AT 12:50 PM
What is meant by backward crochet? Is there a video tutorial
for that? All I can find are reverse crochet.

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reginaalexisweiss
OCTOBER 27, 2023 AT 1:07 PM
Hi Maria! “Forward” and “Backward” in this pattern refer
to the slant of your join when you join at the end of the
round. This pattern uses the Switchback Join method to
make the joining seam stay straight – refer to the tutorial
linked in the notes to get the full explanation! (So no,
you’re not actually crocheting backwards! 🙂 )

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44. Ultrabug
NOVEMBER 7, 2023 AT 12:47 PM
I love your patterns! I’ve actually bought a couple off Etsy.

A question for you: I have just a singular 2.75 hook. Would I

just continue increasing to make it fit correctly? I’m not going
to have easy access to the rest of my hooks for a couple days
and I need something to make, lol.

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reginaalexisweiss
NOVEMBER 13, 2023 AT 11:41 AM
HI and thank you so much! Sorry I missed this message
(not sure it matters now) but yes you can continue the
increases in the logic of the pattern until it’s big enough for
your head, but you’ll have to re-center when it comes to
working the brim (you should start the rows for the brim
in the middle of an increase set) or else the “lean” of the
hat will be off 🙂 Hope that helps!

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46. Amber Marie Reyes

JUNE 24, 2024 AT 10:51 AM
The Switchback Join tutorial doesn’t exist anymore!

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reginaalexisweiss
JUNE 25, 2024 AT 10:23 AM
Oh dear! I have no idea what happened there. I’ll contact
support and see if I can figure it out!

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reginaalexisweiss
JUNE 25, 2024 AT 10:25 AM
Ok, the Link Imps have been disciplined, the link should
be working again now 🙂

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47. Brandi
SEPTEMBER 8, 2024 AT 1:52 PM
On Type B, the beginning Rnd 1 says to ch 1, hdc 8 into magic
ring. Would that be 8 hdc in a magic ring, or 8 hdc in the ch 1
to make a magic ring? The ch 1 at the beginning confused me,
thought I’d ask.

REPLY
reginaalexisweiss
SEPTEMBER 9, 2024 AT 7:24 AM
Hi Brandi! The Ch 1 is just to gain height, and doesn’t
count as the first hdc or the magic ring! 🙂

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48. Cindy
OCTOBER 7, 2024 AT 2:03 PM
Hi! I’m making this and I’m trying to go from row 11 to row
12. I’ll finish row 11, get the correct amount of stitches in that
row, and start on 12. When got halfway through 12 I counted
stitches and I don’t have enough stitches in row 11 to finish 12.
11 had the correct stitch count but it’s not enough to finish
row 12. I’ve done it like five times trying to figure out what
I’ve done wrong.

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reginaalexisweiss
OCTOBER 8, 2024 AT 10:15 AM
Hi Cindy! What’s your stitch count that you’re ending up
with halfway through 12?

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