Vehicle Maintenance Checklist:

DIY Projects Anyone Can Do

Written by Derek Mau Dec 21, 2021 5:25 p.m. ET
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(Photo/Derek Mau)
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Doing essential maintenance on your car may seem intimidating, but not
everything requires advanced mechanical skills.

Since a vehicle is a hefty investment, here are some simple maintenance

tasks that are straightforward, inexpensive, and will help extend the life of
your car.

 Inspecting the Car’s Battery

 Replacing the Wiper Blades
 Changing Out the Engine Air Filter
 Replace the Cabin Air Filter
 Hand Washing Your Car
 Vacuum With Verve
 How to Change Oil & Filter
 How to Rotate Your Tires
 How to Install New Spark Plugs

Inspecting the Car’s Battery

(Photo/Derek Mau)
Corrosion on the battery terminals can add stress to the vehicle’s charging
system. Even minor deterioration can reduce alternator output up to 30%.
Eventually, it could lead to troubles with one of the many electronically
controlled systems present in modern cars. Hence, cleaning the battery
terminals is suitable insurance against future electrical problems.

Cleaning Corroded Battery Terminals

Tools required for cleaning the battery terminals:

 Socket/ratchet set
 Wire brush
 Wrench set
 Latex or nitrile gloves
 Neutralizing battery post felt pads
 Anti-corrosion spray
 Baking soda/water solution
 Paper towels or shop rag

If the battery terminals have minor corrosion, disconnect and clean them.
Take precautions not to arc the positive leads to avoid short-circuiting and
potentially causing damage to the electrical system. Use a wire brush to clean
the terminals and battery posts if corrosion buildup is excessive.

Baking soda has a thousand and one uses, one of which is a baking soda and
water solution that will neutralize the battery acid. Or buy a can of battery
terminal spray cleaner.

Whichever one you utilize, wipe the terminals and posts clean with paper
towels or a rag afterward. Then add acid-neutralizing felt pads to the posts
and reconnect the battery terminals.

Apply an anticorrosive material to the battery terminals to prevent future

corrosion. If the old plastic guards are done, install new ones. Plastic or
rubber battery post caps are about 5 dollars.

If the battery terminals and posts are badly corroded, replacing the cable
terminals is likely necessary. Installing new terminals isn’t too difficult and the
topic for another article. Generally, it takes about an hour of labor and less
than $20 for replacement parts.

Changing Windshield Wipers Is a Breeze

Windshield wiper blades are typically made of natural rubber or a synthetic

compound with the elastic properties of rubber. This helps the blades conform
to the curved glass and is soft enough to squeegee the water off.

Some parts of the country have extreme weather conditions, and

recommended replacement is about once every 6 months. If you live in milder
climates, wipers will last approximately a year before they begin streaking or
squeaking annoyingly as they work back and forth.

Fortunately, learning how to replace windshield wipers is a snap by following

these steps:

 Measuring your wiper blades (driver side, passenger side, and rear)
 Removing the old wiper blade
 Attaching the new one
 Testing them out

How to Remove Windshield Wipers

Measure your wipers: Windshield wipers come in several sizes; use the
wrong ones, and they either won’t fit or won’t work correctly. To find the right
size windshield wipers for your car, measure the current blade length and
read your owner’s manual. You can also look up the correct size using the
reference guide found next to where they sell wiper blades at most auto parts
stores.

Remove the old wiper: Carefully pull the arm away from the windshield, and
then squeeze the small tab under the wiper where it meets the arm. The wiper
blade should then slide off the arm when you pull downward.

How to Install Windshield Wipers

First, confirm that the new wiper blade uses the same hooks as the old, and
then attach it to the arm. A clicking sound signals that the new blade is locked
in place. Lower the wiper arm to the windshield before repeating the process
on the opposite side.

Test Them Out

Don’t wait until a downpour to see if you did this right. Use the vehicle’s
windshield cleaner system to spray fluid and ensure that the wipers make a
clean sweep of the windscreen without coming loose.

Changing Out the Engine Air Filter

In a similar fashion to the way humans need oxygen to live, a vehicle needs
clean air for the combustion process. The air filter inhibits dust, sand, debris,
and insects from reaching the engine and ensures a good mixture of air and
fuel. Over time, the filter element can become clogged, preventing the engine
from working at peak efficiency.

The filter is usually housed within the airbox and is often inspected or replaced
with few to no tools. If the filter looks extra dirty, then it’s worth the few bucks
to change it for having the peace of mind that your engine can breathe easier.

Replacing the Cabin Air Filter

(Photo/Derek Mau)
Often the cabin air filter is overlooked for many reasons. Ultimately, people
neglect to replace it because they don’t understand its importance, or the
service center is overcharging for swapping it out.

However, that filter blocks a lot of pollutants and drastically reduces the load
of allergens that can potentially get into your vehicle. If you can’t recall the last
time the cabin air filter was replaced, now is an excellent time to install a fresh
filter.

Thankfully, installing a new cabin air filter takes only a few minutes and no
tools in a majority of cases. Not to mention saving about $30 if you do it
yourself.

Buy a New Cabin Air Filter

Cabin air filters are available at any auto parts store or Walmart; you don’t
have to purchase one from a dealership. Find the specific part number for
your vehicle by either searching online via Google or — what I prefer to do —
ask the person behind the counter to look up the part number for your specific
make, model, and year of the car.

Pinpoint the Cabin Air Filter Compartment

The vehicle’s cabin air filter location is somewhat tricky to find but is often
easily accessible. Typically, it’s somewhere in the dashboard, either
underneath it or behind the glove box. In some cases, it’s situated in the
engine bay.

The compartment holding the element is hidden from sight, so your best
method of finding it is reading your car’s manual or searching YouTube
videos. Often, accessing the casing involves twisting or removing some
fasteners by hand.

Remove the Old Cabin Filter

After establishing how to access the air filter compartment, open it up by

pinching the cover and sliding it open. Examine the air filter and note its
condition. A clear indication of a neglected element is a dark color to the fabric
and lots of debris embedded in between the pleats.

As you pull it out, remember the direction of the airflow arrow marked on the
side of the filter. Matching this orientation is relevant when installing the clean
filter. If there is any debris in the compartment, take a moment to vacuum or
take a dry rag and wipe it out.

Slide the Clean Filter In

Insert the fresh cabin air filter, so it doesn’t stick out or hang up on anything. It
should fit comfortably in the chamber, facing the same direction the old one
did.

Close the Access Cover

Reverse the removal steps and reattach the panel to its original position.
Reinstall everything the way it was, and check that nothing is loose.

The cabin air filter is an essential part of your car’s climate control system,
blocking harmful allergens and debris from entering the vents and
subsequently to the vehicle interior. Thus, set a reminder to perform this
exercise at least once a year.

Hand Washing Your Car

(Photo/Derek Mau)
Washing your car will save you money that would otherwise go toward
paying for an automated car wash and puts you up close to filthy areas that
need more attention. Moreover, commercial car washes use abrasive
materials that may scratch or damage your car’s paint, so handwashing will
help keep it in the best possible condition.

To clean your vehicle by hand, you’ll need a flat, shady patch of concrete, a
hose, and access to plenty of water. It usually takes an hour or two to wash
and dry, depending on the size of your vehicle and how dirty it is. Car wash
shampoo is highly advised because it’s specifically formulated for automotive
paint and won’t compromise wax protection.

Preparing to Wash the Vehicle

 Park out of direct sunlight (full shade is optimal)

 Check that all windows and sunroof are closed
 Retract the antenna
 Collect your supplies: bucket, hose, tire/wheel brush, car wash
shampoo, wash mitts, drying towels
 Fill a bucket with water and mix in car wash soap
 Fill a second bucket with water for rinsing towels and brushes if your
vehicle is heavily soiled

Washing the Car

 Soak the tires and wheels first, as they are usually the dirtiest part.
 Rinse off the loose dirt, and then follow up with a brush for scouring the
sidewalls and the brake dust off the wheels. If they’re in poor shape,
spray on your favorite rim and wheel cleaner, let it dwell for 2 to 5
minutes, and then scrub off the brake dust, road grime, and other nasty
stuff stuck to the metal — follow up with a thorough rinse.
 Wash your car using a wash mitt or microfiber towel.
 Wash one section at a time, starting at the top and working your way to
the bottom.
 Refrain from using a brush on the car body, as this will leave micro
scratches on the paint
 If the car is filthy, let the soap and water do the work. Make multiple
passes and avoid excessive scrubbing, as this could scratch or damage
the paint.
  Keep the wash mitt clean by rinsing it often. The risk of marring or
damaging the paint increases by letting the dirt and grit build up in the
wash mitt.
 Rinse each section after cleaning it. Don’t allow the soap to dry on the
paint to prevent stains, which may prove difficult to remove.
 Keeping the entire car wet as you progress through the wash process
will prevent water spots.
 Scrub the lower body sections last, as this is typically the dirtiest,
grimiest area.

Drying and Waxing Your Car

Dry the vehicle with fresh microfiber towels to evade micro scratches on the
painted surfaces. The cool aspect about microfiber towels is that they’re
reusable. Just wash them with like materials to avoid picking up extra lint. Air
dry or use the delicate cycle when tossing them into the dryer.

Another drying technique, which doesn’t even involve touching the vehicle, is
to use a blower — even a leaf blower can work well.

For that extra shine and protection against the sun, apply a coat of wax. If
you think the exercise of rubbing on a thin coat of your favorite carnauba wax
is laborious and time-consuming, look at hybrid ceramic spray waxes.

Now it’s as simple as wetting the car, spraying on the hybrid ceramic wax,
waiting a few minutes, spraying off the excess with a hose, and then toweling
it dry. The ceramic coating is tougher than regular car wax, has a deep shine,
and lasts 4 to 6 months.

Vacuuming for Hidden Treasure

(Photo/Derek Mau)
In a similar fashion as washing your car, use a top-to-bottom approach when
vacuuming. Use a brush attachment on the dashboard, instrument panel, and
center console to avoid scratching the surfaces. A crevice attachment is
perfect for getting into tight spaces between the seats.

When you get to the floor mats, remove them and slide the seats forward to
suck up all the junk underneath. You’ll be surprised by what you find. We
found an assortment of pens, McDonald’s fries, Lego pieces, and enough
coins for several vending machine snacks the last time our family car was
cleaned out. After vacuuming the seats, remove the mats and clean the
carpet.

How to Change Engine Oil

(Photo/Derek Mau)
With gas prices creeping up into the uncomfortable range and the thought of
expensive engine repairs haunting you, it makes sense to have your engine
running at peak efficiency and ward off any potential breakdowns with regular
oil changes.

Sure, some manufacturers say their engines can go 10,000 miles between oil
services, but have you looked at and smelled engine oil after that many miles?

Because oil is one of the most vital fluids your car uses, conducting regular oil
changes is favorable for the engine — and your wallet. The gearheads in the
office typically do oil services every 5,000 to 7,000 miles. Over time, motor oil
gets gritty and breaks down due to heat from the engine, which in turn causes
it to lose viscosity and its ability to lubricate the cylinder walls.

Draining the old motor oil and replacing the filter routinely help keep the
engine clean and protect other engine parts. A more noticeable effect is better
fuel economy, as uncontaminated clean oil has less friction without the dirt
and grime adding extra wear over time.

Why not do it yourself? It’s easier than you’d imagine, and it’s a prime
opportunity to check under the hood and see if anything else needs some
attention, such as checking the fluid levels or the battery’s condition.

What You Need

 Ratchet/open-end wrench
 Oil filter wrench
 Oil drain pan
 Funnel
 Latex or nitrile gloves
 New oil filter
 New engine oil
 New drain plug crush washer
 Clean rag

Before You Begin

 Read the owner’s manual to learn the correct oil viscosity and engine’s
oil capacity.
  View a couple of YouTube videos for the year, make, and model of the
vehicle to get an idea of what’s involved, the location of the oil filter, the
easiest way to access it, and any tips that will make the process more
straightforward.
 Allow the car time to cool down enough after driving to prevent burning
yourself on hot oil.
 If you need the space to get underneath the vehicle, use a floor or bottle
jack and jack stands to raise the car for better access.

Changing the Oil and Oil Filter

 Find the oil filter and drain plug. Position the drain pan below the drain
plug at a slight angle to account for the stream and any possible breeze.
Taking off the engine oil cap will improve the flow as it drains. Remove
the drain plug with the correct size hex end of a wrench or socket, and
then let the oil drain oil into the pan.
 After emptying the oil from the engine, replace the drain plug paired with
a new crush washer, and tighten to the proper torque spec.
 Using the oil filter wrench, loosen and unscrew the oil filter. If the filter
is at a horizontal angle, removing it will get messy, so get ready to soak
up the drips with a clean rag or shop towel.
 After removing the filter, drain its contents into the pan, too.
 Wipe the clean rag to clean excess oil away from the filter sealing
surface, where the new oil filter will go.
 Lubricate the new filter’s O-ring by smearing some clean oil on it, and
then screw it on using the oil filter wrench or your hand. Do not
overtighten.
 Recheck to make sure everything is fastened tightly and secured before
refilling using the amount specified by the manufacturer.
 Replace the oil filler cap and start the engine long enough to circulate
the oil. After turning the engine off, check for leaks. If everything
appears to be dry underneath, check the oil level one more time with
your dipstick after the car is level again.
 Properly dispose of used engine oil or take it to a hazardous waste
collection center. Another option is to ask your local auto parts store if
they recycle used oil.

How to Rotate Your Tires

(Photo/Derek Mau)
If you have the jack stands out for an oil change, it’s also a good time to
rotate the tires. Coincidentally, recommended tire rotation falls right in line with
oil changes at approximately 5,000 miles.

If you think about it, the front tires of most vehicles wear more rapidly than the
back tires — unless you love doing Ken Block impersonations. Factors
affecting wear and tear — for drivers less inclined to do smoky burnouts —
include turning, braking, and supporting the weight of the front end. Front-
wheel-drive cars add the burden of transmitting power to the front wheels.

In contrast, rear-wheel-drive vehicles typically have more balanced wear, as

the rear tires are responsible for propulsion while the front tires handle
steering duties. In the case of RWD drivetrains, the rear tires are
predominantly driven in a straight line; thus, they wear a lot less than the front
tires.

Regardless of whether your vehicle is FWD, RWD, or AWD, rotating the tires
at regular intervals will get you the maximum miles out of them.

What You Need

Tire rotation doesn’t require a full-size car lift or air tools. What works best is
the following:

 A hard, flat, and level work area

 A jack rated strong enough to lift your vehicle
 At least two jack stands
 Wheel chocks to prevent the car from rolling
 A torque wrench
 A standard set of hand tools
 Enough muscle to lift the tire and wheel

Steps for Rotating Tires

 Use a socket wrench large enough to break loose the wheel’s lug nuts
 Lift the car off the ground and remove lug nuts using a socket wrench or
cordless drill
 Dismount tires due for rotation
 Thoroughly examine each tire for tread or sidewall damage
  Measure tread depth
 Rotate and mount tires
 Reinstall lug nuts and lower the vehicle until the tire touches the ground
 Use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts to half the recommended
torque spec. The owner’s or shop manual will have this specification.
 Lower vehicle all the way and tighten each lug nut in a star pattern to
the specified torque
 Check the air pressure using a quality gauge to get an accurate reading

It’s strongly advised to use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts.
Overtightening is the primary cause of warped brake rotors and broken wheel
studs.

How to Change Your Car’s Spark Plugs

(Photo/Derek Mau)
Small and simple in design, your car’s spark plugs play an integral role in the
combustion process. This crucial automotive part uses the electrical current
from the ignition to ignite the compressed fuel and air mixture while containing
combustion pressure within the engine. It’s a hardy design, but nothing lasts
forever.

Fortunately, spark plugs are easy to replace if in an accessible location — this

varies widely between vehicles.

Tools Needed

 A socket wrench
 An extension for the above wrench
 A spark plug socket (specifically designed not to crack or damage
them)
 A gap measurement gauge
 Replacement spark plugs
 Wire brush

Work on a cold engine. A hot engine also means hot spark plugs. Thus, it’s a
sound idea to cool the engine before removing the old spark plugs.

Another tip is to clear the engine of any dirt and debris that could fall inside
the engine cylinder during replacement.

Locate the position of all the spark plugs before starting.

The biggest challenge for this task is reaching the parts and stubborn
components that won’t come loose, such as when removing spark plug wires
or ignition coils and unscrewing the spark plugs.

There are situations where spark plugs are difficult to reach and require
dismantling the upper plenum or intake manifold. If this is the case, a new
plenum gasket is necessary.

Remove the Old, Worn Spark Plugs

An ignition coil attaches directly to the spark plug and has a long rubber
insulator boot. First, disconnect the electrical connector to the ignition coil by
releasing the locking tab and then pulling off the ignition coil. Use a small
screwdriver to depress the locking tab if your fingers aren’t successful.

After removing the connector, unscrew the hold-down bolt and carefully twist
the coil back and forth about a quarter turn until it breaks free from the spark
plug. Then carefully pull it straight up and out.

Inspect for damage and extreme wear. If the boots are damaged, consider
replacing them immediately. Replacement is strongly recommended for
components older than 5 years or with more than 100,000 miles of use.

Use a spark plug socket, preferably one with a magnetic or rubber insert that
holds the plug firmly in place, to remove the spark plugs. Begin with blowing
compressed air into the spark plug well to remove debris and grit.

First, loosen the plug about a half turn. If you feel a lot of resistance, squirt
some penetrant fluid onto the base area of the spark plug threads and let it
dwell for a few minutes. Repeat if too much torque is needed to unscrew the
spark plug.

Install the New Spark Plugs

Check each spark plug for the following:

1. Ensure the threads are clean and straight

2. Make sure the tips aren’t bent or damaged
3. Double-check the gap, so it matches your engine’s plug gap spec

Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the threads. Then insert and
tighten each new spark plug to the correct amount of torque, taking
precautions not to cross-thread or ruin the cylinder head threads.

HOW TO INSTALL SEAT COVERS: A

COMPLETE STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE
CategoriesBest Auto ComponentsReviewsPopularSafety ProductsInterior
Accessories
Replacing worn-out or damaged seat covers is an easy and affordable way to give your
car’s interior a fresh new look. Whether you want to upgrade to a more stylish fabric or
need to replace torn seat covers, installing new seat covers is a project you can do
yourself in just a few hours.

In this comprehensive guide, we will walk you through the entire process of installing
seat covers, from choosing the right type of seat cover to properly securing them on
your seats. With these simple step-by-step instructions and tips, you’ll be able to give
your car an interior makeover with new seat covers.

Things You’ll Need

Before starting the installation process, make sure you have the following materials and
tools:

 New replacement seat covers for your specific vehicle make and model
 Screwdrivers – both flathead and Phillips’s head
 Socket wrench set or ratchet wrench with sockets
 Scissors or utility knife
 Cleaning spray and rags
 Heavy-duty tape such as Gorilla tape
A Step-by-Step Guide to Install Seat
Covers in Your Car
The first step is selecting seat covers that properly fit your vehicle. When shopping
online or in auto parts stores, you’ll need to know the make, model, and year of your
vehicle. This ensures you get seat covers designed specifically for your car. Some key
factors to consider when choosing seat covers include:

 Fabric – Popular options include neoprene, polyester, faux leather, and

genuine leather. Consider durability, comfort, and style.
 Front or Back Seats – Make sure to get covers for the front and back
seats, as needed.
 Bench or Bucket Seats – Bucket seats with separate seat backs and
bench seats require different cover designs.
 Color – Select a color that matches your vehicle’s interior.
 Budget – Prices range from $50 for basic vinyl to over $500 for real
leather.
Once you select the proper seat covers for your vehicle, you’re ready to start
installation. Make sure to thoroughly read the instructions that come with the seat
covers for cover-specific guidance.

Step 1 – Remove the Seats

The first step in installing seat covers is removing the vehicle’s seats. This allows for
easier access during the installation process. Use the following steps to remove your
seats:

 Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent any electrical issues.

 Identify bolts under seats through holes in the carpet or by feel and use
wrenches or sockets to loosen and remove them. There are typically 4
bolts per seat.
 Unplug any electrical connections like seat heaters or electronic controls.
These are normally accessible under or behind the seats.
 Label any electrical wires so you can properly reconnect them later.
With all bolts removed slide seats backward and outward to remove them. The front
seats typically lift right out while rear seats may need to be maneuvered around seat
belts.

Step 2 – Clean Seats

Now is a good opportunity to do a deep clean of your vehicle’s seats to remove any dirt,
grime, or stains. Here’s how:

 Use your vacuum’s brush attachment to remove any loose dirt or debris
from the seats. Get into crevices and seams.
  Mix warm water and mild dish soap in a spray bottle. Spray down the
seats and scrub with a soft brush and rag to lift stains.
 Use a wet/dry vacuum to remove soap residue and water. Let seats fully
dry before continuing.
 Thoroughly cleaning seats allows for the best adhesion when applying
new seat covers.
Check out our guide on how to clean a car seat for more detailed instructions.

Step 3 – Install Seat Bottom Covers

Once the seats are removed and cleaned, you can start installing the new seat covers.
Begin with the bottom cushions:

 Read seat cover instructions and identify the cover for the bottom seat
cushion.
 Slip the seat bottom cover over the cushion frame and pull down evenly.
The cover should fit snugly in place.
 Wrap the material around the bottom of the seat and secure it with Gorilla
tape. This keeps the cover from sliding off.
 Pull the cover taut on the front and sides so there are no wrinkles.
 Use a utility knife to trim any excess material hanging off the seat bottom.
Step 4 – Install Seat Back Covers
After securing the bottom seat cover, move on to the seat back:

 Identify the seat cover designed for the upper seat back cushion.
 Pull the cover over the seat starting at the top and smoothing it downward.
Like the bottom, it should fit tightly.
 Wrap excess material around the seat back and tape off. The cover often
wraps around the bottom for a few inches.
 Use scissors to trim any overhanging material above and below the seat.
 Replace the headrest with its opening at the top of the seat back.
Step 5 – Secure Seat Covers
At this point, the seat covers should be in position but need to be properly secured. Use
the following tips:

 Utilize hooks, elastic straps, Velcro strips, or other attachments on the

covers to anchor them around and under the seat frame.
 Lift seat pad flaps and tuck excess cover material up under the seat
bottom and back.
 Pull the seat covers tight from the bottom, sides, and back to create a
smooth wrinkle-free fit.
  Replace any electrical components you unplugged like heating wires and
control modules.
 Reinstall the seats back into the vehicle by reversing the removal process.
Slide them onto tracks and re-bolt them into place.
Step 6 – Repeat Steps for Remaining
Seats
Once you have installed new seat covers on the first seat, repeat the process for any
remaining seats in your vehicle, whether front or back seats. The same general
instructions apply but covers may differ slightly between driver and passenger seats.
Refer to seat cover directions for each seat.