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 Atlanta
10th Edition

by K.K. Snyder

Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:

“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”
—Booklist

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”

—Glamour Magazine

“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”

—Des Moines Sunday Register

“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
 Atlanta
10th Edition

by K.K. Snyder

Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:

“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”
—Booklist

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”

—Glamour Magazine

“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”

—Des Moines Sunday Register

“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.”
—Knight Ridder Newspapers
About the Author
K.K. Snyder admits that while she wasn’t born in the South, she got there as quickly as
she could and has lived there for the past 25 years. A freelance writer specializing in
travel, she writes for a number of publications in the southeast.
Published by:

Wiley Publishing, Inc.

111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
Copyright © 2007 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No
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Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John
Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark
of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their
respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor
mentioned in this book.
ISBN: 978-0-470-08297-3
Editor: Leslie A. Shen
Production Editor: Eric T. Schroeder
Cartographer: Guy Ruggiero
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Anniversary Logo Design: Richard Pacifico
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Front cover photo: Child playing in fountain at Centennial Olympic Park
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5 4 3 2 1
 Contents
List of Maps vi

What’s New in Atlanta 1

1 The Best of Atlanta 3

1 Frommer’s Favorite Atlanta 2 Best Hotel Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 3 Best Dining Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Cheers to the New World The Importance of P.C. . . . . . . . . . . .11
of Coca-Cola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

2 Planning Your Trip to Atlanta 13

1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 9 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . . . . . .32
2 Entry Requirements & Customs Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . . . . . .34
for International Visitors . . . . . . . . . .13 10 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Destination: Atlanta— Flying with Film & Video . . . . . . . . . .39
Red Alert Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
11 Packages for the Independent
3 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
4 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 12 Escorted General-Interest Tours . . . . .41
Atlanta Calendar of Events . . . . . . . .17 13 Special-Interest Trips . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
5 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 14 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . . . . .42
6 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Tips for Digital Travel
7 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . . .26 Photography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
8 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . . . . . .30 15 Tips on Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
[Link]: The Complete 16 Recommended Reading . . . . . . . . . .45
Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

3 Suggested Atlanta Itineraries 47

1 Atlanta in 1 to 4 Days . . . . . . . . . . .47 2 Itineraries by Interest . . . . . . . . . . . .52

4 Getting to Know Atlanta 57

1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64
Atlanta’s Neighborhoods in Brief . . . .62 Fast Facts: Atlanta . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68
iv CONTENTS

5 Where to Stay 75
1 Downtown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76 5 Decatur/Lake Claire . . . . . . . . . . . .101
Family-Friendly Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . .83 6 Stone Mountain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102
2 Midtown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84 7 Druid Hills/Emory University . . . . . .103
3 Buckhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 8 Duluth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103
The Vine That Ate the South . . . . . .96 9 Airport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104
4 Virginia-Highland & Inman Park . . .100 10 South of Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105

6 Where to Dine 107

1 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . . . . . .107 A Buckhead Fish Tale . . . . . . . . . . .130
2 Downtown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110 5 Virginia-Highland & Inman Park . . . .138
Family-Friendly Restaurants . . . . . .112 Outdoor Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .140
3 Midtown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .113 6 Vinings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .142
True Grits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117 7 Decatur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .143
4 Buckhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123 Cheesecake Fit for a President . . . .144
Picnic Fare & Picnic Spots . . . . . . . .127 8 Doraville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146

7 What to See & Do in Atlanta 147

1 The Top Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . .147 3 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . . . . . .180
Water, Water Everywhere . . . . . . . .158 Coo at the Zoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .186
Searching for Margaret Mitchell . . .160 4 Special-Interest Tours . . . . . . . . . . .187
2 More Attractions in Atlanta Run the Peachtree . . . . . . . . . . . . .188
& Beyond . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171 5 Parks & Outdoor Pursuits . . . . . . . .189
Did You Know? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .178 6 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .193

8 A Walking Tour of Sweet Auburn 197

Walking Tour: Sweet Auburn . . . . .197

9 Shopping 202
1 Great Shopping Areas . . . . . . . . . . .202 3 More Shopping Around Town . . . . .211
2 Department Stores & Malls . . . . . . .209
 CONTENTS v

10 Atlanta After Dark 216

1 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . . . . . .217 4 Coffeehouses, Cafes &
2 The Club & Music Scene . . . . . . . . .220 Late-Night Bites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .225
3 The Bar Scene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .222

Appendix: Atlanta in Depth 227

1 History 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227 2 Famous Atlantans . . . . . . . . . . . . . .234
Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .228

Index 236
General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .236 Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . .243
Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . .242
 List of Maps

The Atlanta Region 4 Downtown Dining 111

Suggested Itinerary: Day 1 48 Dining in Midtown, Virginia-Highland
Suggested Itinerary: Day 2 49 & Little Five Points 114
Suggested Itinerary: Day 3 50 Buckhead Dining 124
Suggested Itinerary: Day 4 51 Centennial Olympic Park 153
MARTA Rail Map 59 Downtown Attractions 163
Atlanta at a Glance 61 Midtown Attractions 165
Downtown Accommodations 77 Stone Mountain Park 168
Midtown Accommodations 86 Regional Atlanta Attractions 172
Buckhead Accommodations 92 Walking Tour: Sweet Auburn 198
 Dedicated to Garret, my college bound young man, and Caitlin, my sweet 16.
And For OVM.

Acknowledgments
This project would not be possible without the help and support I receive from my fam-
ily as well as tourism and public relations professionals at the Atlanta Convention and
Visitors Bureau. In addition, I appreciate the enthusiasm and hospitality of the fine peo-
ple of Atlanta, who graciously share their city with 20 million visitors each year.

An Invitation to the Reader

In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and
more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information
with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommenda-
tion, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Atlanta, 10th Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially
true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making
your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experi-
ences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to
stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets,
all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.

Other Great Guides for Your Trip:

Frommer’s Carolinas & Georgia
Frommer’s Portable Savannah
Frommer’s USA
Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value,
service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional
guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your
time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three
stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to
the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very
highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the
great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists.
Throughout the book, look for:

Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about

Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun

Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family

Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of

Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money

Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money

Value Great values—where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

[Link]
Now that you have this guidebook to help you plan a great trip, visit our website at www.
[Link] for additional travel information on more than 3,500 destinations. We update
features regularly to give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information avail-
able. At [Link], you’ll find scoops on the best airfares, lodging rates, and car rental bar-
gains. You can even book your travel online through our reliable travel booking partners. Other
popular features include:
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• Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways
• Newsletters highlighting the hottest travel trends
• Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions
 What’s New in Atlanta
T he Atlanta of the ’60s was the city too
busy to hate. Today’s Atlanta is still busy,
version of the sensual Kama Sutra, the
Glenn is as sexy as it gets. The only thing
but it channels all of its energy into being sexier is the on-site restaurant, B.E.D.
a mecca for entertainment, fine dining, (& 404/222-7992), where diners can sip
professional and college sports, and shop- their trendy cocktails while relaxing in
ping. It is also one of the largest conven- lushly appointed beds. Don’t worry: Tra-
tion cities in the country. There is always ditional seating exists for the less adven-
something new on the horizon—from a turous. See p. 110 for more information.
new entertainment venue to a restaurant ATTRACTIONS The new and
opened by an internationally recognized improved World of Coca-Cola (& 404/
chef, Atlanta is home to an ever-chang- 676-5151), opening in 2007, will be a
ing, ever-improving list of places to fantastic neighbor to the new Georgia
explore and things to experience. Here’s a Aquarium. The pair are expected to
smattering of some recent additions to make the northwest section of downtown
Atlanta, as well as a rundown of upcom- Atlanta—already occupied by a half-
ing changes. dozen major attractions—the ultimate
WHERE TO STAY & DINE Despite tourist area. At 5 million gallons and
the huge decline in convention business 400,000 square feet, the Georgia Aquar-
following the September 11, 2001, terror- ium is among the most elaborate in the
ist attacks, developers continue to con- nation, with more than 100,000 freshwa-
struct and renovate hotels in Hotlanta as if ter and saltwater fish and mammals. See
the city were preparing to host another p. 170 and p. 157, respectively, for more
Olympic Games. InterContinental Hotels on these attractions.
Group has unveiled InterContinental Adding to its reputation for family fun,
Buckhead, 3315 Peachtree Rd. (& 404/ Six Flags Over Georgia (& 770/948-
946-9000), an elegant new luxury hotel 9290) added the colossal Goliath roller
designed to cater to the most discriminat- coaster in 2006, much to the delight of
ing guests. See p. 91 for a review. Located amusement-park fans. Soaring over 200
in Buckhead, the hotel houses the fabulous feet above the park and covering an area
24-hour Au Pied de Cochon European 81⁄2 acres in size, this much-anticipated
brasserie, featuring an extensive raw steel monster is just one of 10 coasters
seafood bar and sinful desserts. See p. 123 here. Fans of such rides should check out
for more details. the new Flash Pass, which allows you
The seductive Glenn Hotel, 110 Mari- to reserve your place in line and do the
etta St. NW (& 404/521-2250), is capa- waiting while enjoying other aspects of
ble of lighting a spark in any relationship. the park. See p. 182 for more info on
Featuring glass showers open to the bed- Six Flags.
room, erotic art, and even a pop-up book
2 W H AT ’ S N E W

Atlantic Station (& 404/733-5000), Already named one of the top 10 art
a modern mixed-use district with shops, institutions in the country, the High
town houses, office buildings, and ample Museum of Art, 1280 Peachtree St. NE
park space, covers 138 acres and is as (& 404/733-HIGH), recently unveiled
ambitious a development as any this its $130-million expansion to the public.
country has seen. It includes 1 million The added 177,000 square feet (which
square feet of open-air retail and enter- more than doubled the size of the facility)
tainment venues, a two-story movie the- includes additional gallery space for the
ater, and the Southeast’s first IKEA—the museum’s expansive permanent collec-
first in the world to serve grits and sweet tion, enlarged special-exhibit space, a
tea in its restaurant. See p. 202 for more coffee bar, and a new retail shop. The
details on the shopping here. In addition, museum’s restaurant, Table 1280, con-
the development is home to Twelve tinues to receive rave reviews, and a spe-
Hotel, 361 17th St. (& 404/961-1212), cial exhibit from the Louvre is on display
featuring 102 suite-style hotel rooms and through 2009. See p. 157 for additional
the Lobby at Twelve restaurant and bar, information on the High Museum.
reviewed on p. 112.
 1
The Best of Atlanta
“How do I get to Tara?”
“Where are Scarlett and Rhett buried?”
“Why do you put sugar in iced tea but not on grits?”
“Just what is a grit anyway?”
S ome visitors come to Atlanta looking for Old South stereotypes—white-columned
mansions surrounded by magnolias, owned by slow-moving folks with accents as
thick as molasses. What they find is a lot more cosmopolitan and a heck of a lot more
interesting.
When Gen. William Sherman burned Atlanta to the ground in 1864, the city rose
from those smoldering bitter ashes and has not looked back since. Instead, it has spent
the last 140 years or so building what’s been described as the Capital of the New South
and the Next Great International City. Atlanta’s heritage may be Southern, but the
current dynamic is brashly Sunbelt, and now it’s straight-up economic vitality that
drives this city’s engines.
Atlanta is and always has been a city on the move. Longtime mayor William B.
Hartsfield called it the city “too busy to hate,” and the spirit of Atlanta is one of work-
ing together to get the job done. The dramatic downtown skyline, with its gleaming
skyscrapers, is testimony to Atlanta’s inability to sit still—even for a minute. And its
role as host for the Centennial Olympic Games in 1996 finally convinced the rest of
the world that Atlanta is a force to be reckoned with—and a great place to visit.
Recent projects have only reinforced that notion. These new ventures include the
$214-million, 70,500-seat Georgia Dome, which hosted the Super Bowl in 2000 and
will host basketball’s Final Four again in 2007; the 5-million-gallon Georgia Aquar-
ium, completed in 2005; and the new World of Coca-Cola, coming this year.
Consistently ranked one of the best cities in the world in which to do business,
Atlanta is headquarters for hundreds of corporations, including Coca-Cola, Delta Air
Lines, UPS, Holiday Inn, Georgia-Pacific, Home Depot, BellSouth, and Cox Enter-
prises, and has become a magnet for many Internet-related companies. A major con-
vention city and a crossroads where three interstate highways converge, it’s home to
the country’s busiest airport. And all those convention-goers certainly find many
places to spend money—Atlanta is considered the shopping capital of the Southeast.
Although the city limits are only 131 square miles, the metro area is vast and sprawl-
ing. With a population of 4.1 million and still counting, there seems to be no limit to
its growth.
But commerce and development are not the only things that characterize this
bustling metropolis. Its success is due in no small part to its quality of life, which is
hard to beat. Atlanta is often called the City of Trees, and the streets are indeed filled
with dogwoods and azaleas. The city has a small-town quality to it, with dozens of
 4
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6 C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F AT L A N TA

neighborhoods and parks. A temperate climate makes Atlanta a magnet for anyone
who enjoys the outdoors, and the city’s Southern roots ensure graciousness and hos-
pitality. As Atlanta has grown in stature, it has attracted residents from across the con-
tinent and around the world, further enriching the city’s social fabric. You’ll still hear
gentle Southern accents here, but at least half of Atlanta’s citizens were born outside
the South. Interestingly, many of these transplants find themselves bending to the
local customs, saying “please” and “ma’am” and holding doors open for one another.
When H. L. Mencken came south early in the 20th century, he branded Atlanta a
cultural wasteland. Media mogul Ted Turner inaugurated CNN here in 1980, and
subsequently launched Superstation TBS, Headline News, and TNT. Also in 1980,
the revitalized African-American neighborhood of Sweet Auburn became a national
historic district, with 10 blocks of notable sites including Martin Luther King, Jr.’s
boyhood home, his crypt, the church where he preached, a museum, and the Martin
Luther King, Jr., Center for Nonviolent Social Change. It is probably the major black
historical attraction in the country, and in the last several years it has undergone a
major revitalization and restoration.
Atlanta is home to major art, science, nature, and archaeology museums; a vibrant
theater community; an outstanding symphony orchestra; a well-regarded ballet com-
pany; opera; blues; jazz; Broadway musicals; a presidential library; Confederate and
African-American heritage sites; and dozens of art galleries. Add to those leisure
options such attractions as Stone Mountain Park, a regional theme park, a botanical
garden, and professional sports teams, and you have the makings of a lively and
sophisticated city. The culinary spectrum here ranges from grits and biscuits to caviar
and sushi. Sure, you can still feast on fried chicken and barbecue, but Atlanta also
serves up cuisine from across the globe.
Of great significance is the recent development downtown. For years, city leaders
have tried to encourage central city living, and it’s finally beginning to take hold as
developers remake old buildings into attractive apartments and lofts. The mark of a
great city is an attractive and vital downtown area where people live as well as work,
and Atlanta finally appears to be headed in that direction.
Atlanta now has Shirley Franklin, the first African-American female elected as
mayor of this busy city. Her vision for this heart of the New South is expansive, and
she’s not too shy to tell you all about it. So if it’s hoop skirts and plantations you’ve
got your heart set on, go on down to your local bookstore and pick up a copy of Gone
with the Wind. But if you want to visit a vibrant, energetic city that’s rich in heritage,
culture, fine cuisine, entertainment, and commerce, Atlanta runs right up there with
the big dogs.

1 Frommer’s Favorite Atlanta Experiences

• Stepping Back in Time at the the lifestyle enjoyed by upper-crust
Atlanta History Center: A re-created Atlantans in the early 20th century.
farm (with original buildings from Kids will love the hands-on discovery
the 1840s) shows how rural Southern areas at the history museum. Explore
folks really lived before the Civil War, the walking trails after you take in the
and the beautifully restored 1928 exhibits. It all adds up to great look at
Swan House, an estate on the prop- the rich tapestry of Atlanta’s past and
erty, gives a fascinating glimpse into present. See p. 150.
 F R O M M E R ’ S FAV O R I T E AT L A N TA E X P E R I E N C E S 7

• Frolicking in the Fountain: The life from foreign waters around the
biggest attraction at Centennial planet. A 4-D movie, numerous
Olympic Park is the Fountain of opportunities for dining and shop-
Rings, where young and old can get ping, and amazing play spaces for the
delightfully soaked on warm days. little ones provide a full day of fun at
The fountain is a simple but ingen- this hot spot. Plan to order advance
ious design on the plaza floor, con- tickets online, as huge crowds con-
sisting of 251 water jets in the shape tinue to converge on this attraction.
of the five Olympic rings. Take a deep See p. 157.
breath and zip in and around the 12- • Exploring the King Center: It’s an
foot water bursts, or just sit and inspiring experience to visit this living
watch the timed light-and-sound- memorial to a true American hero.
effects show, when the water bursts You’ll see lots of King memorabilia
35 feet into the air. See p. 152. and a film on his life and works. Espe-
• Touring the CNN Studios: The net- cially moving is Freedom Plaza, where
work that started round-the-clock Dr. King is buried. The tomb is
television news lets you take a peek inscribed with his words: “Free at Last.
behind the scenes to see how it’s all Free at Last. Thank God Almighty I’m
done. You can even have a videotape Free at Last.” See p. 159.
made of yourself reading the day’s top • Strolling around Oakland Ceme-
stories from behind a CNN anchor tery: This 88-acre cemetery is a
desk. See p. 154. peaceful place, and its Victorian
• Time-Traveling at Fernbank graves are of aesthetic, historic, and
Museum of Natural History: Check symbolic interest. The guided tour is
out the 45-foot-long model of a recommended. Bring a picnic lunch;
Giganotosaurus, then travel back 15 even your dog is welcome to hang out
billion years and experience the Big here (on a leash). See p. 166.
Bang that jump-started the formation • Relaxing in Stone Mountain Park:
of the universe. The museum’s stun- Take a hike to the top of the big gran-
ning architecture is notable. IMAX ite rock or spend a leisurely day taking
films are shown here, too. See p. 155. in the diverse attractions, from a pad-
• Discovering the Fox Theatre: This dlewheel cruise to a living museum of
Moorish-Egyptian palace exemplifies Southern history. You can also choose
the glamorous movie-theater archi- from an array of activities—golf, ten-
tecture of the 1920s, complete with nis, swimming, hiking, boating, and
onion domes, minarets, and a twin- more. See p. 167.
kling starlit sky over the auditorium. • Touring the World of Coca-Cola:
See p. 156. Atlanta is Coke’s hometown, so it’s
• Marveling at the Creatures in the only fitting that there’s a museum
Georgia Aquarium: Even if you have dedicated to the world’s most
only a day or two to spend in the city, renowned beverage. Come see the
this is a must-see. The Georgia gigantic collection of memorabilia,
Aquarium, the largest in the country, explore the interactive exhibits, and
continues to draw mind-boggling take the opportunity to sample Coke
numbers of visitors every day. The beverages from around the world. A
highlights include giant whale sharks new 75,000-square-foot facility opens
and unforgettable exhibits in five soon near Centennial Park and the
major categories, from river life to sea Georgia Aquarium. See p. 170.
8 C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F AT L A N TA

Tips Cheers to the New World of Coca-Cola

With downtown revitalization at the top of the list for Atlanta leaders and
developers, the proposal for a new and improved World of Coca-Cola right
next to the well-attended Georgia Aquarium was well received. The new
cola museum will further focus on the storied history of Coca-Cola, while
also celebrating consumer connections with the brand in new and exciting
ways. State-of-the-art technology and story-telling techniques will make
the guest experience interactive and engaging.
These two projects, along with Imagine It! Children’s Museum, the CNN
Center, Philips Arena, and the Tabernacle—the latter two being popular
entertainment venues—should be a much-needed shot in the arm for the
downtown residential and commercial markets. These developments will
no doubt make the downtown area the place to be in this city, for visitors,
residents, and convention-goers alike.

• Hanging Out at the Zoo: Ever since coffee bars, galleries, cafes, and funky
the giant pandas, Yang Yang and Lun little boutiques. It all makes for a
Lun, arrived at Zoo Atlanta, this has pleasant stroll on a sunny afternoon.
been one of the hottest tickets in For some of the shopping highlights,
town. It’s been even more popular see p. 63.
since the arrival of baby Mei Lan, in • Shopping at Lenox Square: One of
2006. You don’t have to be a kid to be the most popular malls in the South-
fascinated by these adorable crea- east, Lenox Square is a mecca for
tures. See p. 185. affluent shoppers. It’s hard to visit
• Getting a Breath of Fresh Air in every store, even if you spend the
Piedmont Park: Atlanta’s favorite whole day, but many visitors think it’s
public park is fun and funky and a a worthy goal. You’ll find good
terrific place to watch the world go restaurants and great people-watch-
by. Take your in-line skates or pack a ing, too. See p. 209.
lunch and find a shady spot for a pic- • Spending the Morning at the Mar-
nic. See p. 189. ket: Atlanta is home to two gigantic
• Spending a Day at the Ballpark: indoor farmers’ markets, both jammed
Pack up the kids and take them out with locals who are shopping in
to the old ballgame. Even if there isn’t earnest and visitors who have a hard
a Braves game scheduled, you can time keeping their eyes from bugging
take a tour of Turner Field, play in out. Choose from the DeKalb Farm-
Tooner Field playground, and visit ers’ Market, which has an interna-
the museum. The ballpark served as tional flavor, and Harry’s, which is a
the Olympic Stadium for the 1996 little more upscale. Each has loads of
Olympic Games. See p. 195. gourmet goodies you can take home
• Trekking through Virginia- or consume on the spot. See p. 213.
Highland: Atlanta’s version of New • Taking in a Chastain Park
York’s Greenwich Village or SoHo, Amphitheatre Concert: Big-name
this trendy neighborhood is full of entertainers perform under the stars,
 B E S T H OT E L B E T S 9

and everyone brings elaborate picnic table). Even the entertainers seem
fare (some people even bring table- dazzled by the setting. See p. 219.
cloths and candelabra for the picnic

2 Best Hotel Bets

• Best for Business Travelers: All the offering exceptional nightlife, dining,
major downtown megahotels—which and shopping. There are two MARTA
cater largely to a business and conven- stations (Buckhead and Lenox) where
tion clientele—are fully equipped to you can connect to other parts of the
meet your business needs. The finest city, and any hotel within walking dis-
is the Ritz-Carlton Atlanta, 181 tance of either of those stations is a
Peachtree St. NE (& 800/241-3333), sure bet. A good example is the J. W.
which combines a full business center Marriott Hotel Buckhead, 3300
and a can-do concierge with superb Lenox Rd. NE (& 800/613-2051),
service. See p. 76. adjacent to the upscale Lenox Square
• Best for Families: The Residence mall. See p. 92.
Inn by Marriott Buckhead, 2960 • Best Service: The Four Seasons
Piedmont Rd. NE (& 800/331- Hotel, 75 14th St. (& 800/819-
3131), offers accommodations large 5053), continues to wow visitors
enough to ensure privacy for all, plus with its attention to detail and
fully equipped kitchens, washers and supreme service. The Ritz-Carlton
dryers, indoor and outdoor swim- Atlanta, 181 Peachtree St. NE
ming pools, barbecue grills, and bas- (& 800/241-3333), and the Ritz-
ketball, volleyball, and paddle tennis Carlton Buckhead, 3434 Peachtree
courts. Many rooms even have fire- Rd. NE (& 800/241-3333), are tied
places. See p. 99. for a close second. See p. 84, 76, and
• Best for a Romantic Getaway: You’ll 93 for each hotel, respectively.
fall for each other all over again at the • Best Architectural Digest Interior:
luxurious Four Seasons Hotel, 75 The towering Grand Hyatt Atlanta,
14th St. (& 800/819-5053), an ele- 3300 Peachtree Rd. (& 800/233-
gant choice with lavish guest rooms, 1234), offers a stunning combination
luxurious marble tubs, and impecca- of 18th-century American architec-
ble service. See p. 84. ture and Japanese attention to aes-
• Best Moderately Priced Hotel: It’s thetic detail. A 9,000-square-foot
hard to beat the Residence Inn by garden features waterfalls viewable
Marriott Downtown, 134 Peachtree from the lobby overlook. See p. 91.
St. NW (& 800/331-3131). It offers • Best Trendy Hotel: The Westin
a convenient location, large rooms, Buckhead Atlanta, 3391 Peachtree
and a bundle of amenities for a very Rd. NE (& 404/365-0065), with its
reasonable price. See p. 81. clean Euro-modern style, is a favorite
• Best Inexpensive Accommodations: among visiting celebrities. The chic
It’s nothing fancy, but the convenient W Atlanta, 111 Perimeter Center W.
Buckhead location of the Sleep Inn, (& 770/396-6800), is another trendy
800 Sidney Marcus Blvd. (& 800/ fave. See p. 94.
753-3746), makes this a good deal. • Best for Travelers with Disabilities:
See p. 100. The Embassy Suites Atlanta
• Best Location: Buckhead is one of the Buckhead, 3285 Peachtree Rd. NW
loveliest—and busiest—parts of town, (& 800/362-2779), is fully accessible,
10 C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F AT L A N TA

with 10 suites completely equipped with your pooch, but not the trendy
for visitors with disabilities (some Hotel Indigo, 683 Peachtree St.
with roll-in showers, too). The hotel (& 404/874-9200). All pets are wel-
is just a block away from the Buck- come—no fees, no weight limit. If
head MARTA station. See p. 97. you’re in town on Tuesdays, don’t
• Best for Pets: Some hotels get down- miss Canine Cocktail Hour in the
right snooty if you try to check in bar. See p. 90.

3 Best Dining Bets

• Best Spot for a Business Lunch: • Best Italian Cuisine: It’s noisy as the
Power brokers head for steaks at devil, but Sotto Sotto, 313 N. High-
Bone’s, 3130 Piedmont Rd. NE land Ave. (& 404/523-6678), gets
(& 404/237-2663), in Buckhead, my vote for its inspired Northern
where the food is serious and the Italian cuisine. See p. 140.
service is impeccable and unobtru- • Best Italian on a Budget: Pasta da
sive. See p. 123. Pulcinella, 1123 Peachtree Walk
• Best Spot for a Romantic Dinner: (& 404/876-1114), serves gourmet
There’s no better spot than the tree- pasta for next to nothing. See p. 118.
shaded terrace at Horseradish Grill, • Best Seafood: The Atlanta Fish
4320 Powers Ferry Rd. (& 404/255- Market, 265 Pharr Rd. (& 404/262-
7277). See p. 132. 3165), is the ticket, with an enormous
• Best Spot for a Celebration: Why selection of fresh seafood dishes that
not pick one of the most sought-after are done to perfection. See p. 130.
tables in town? That would be at • Best New Southern Cuisine: The
Bacchanalia, 1198 Howell Mill Rd. competition is stiff, but the Horse-
(& 404/365-0410). See p. 113. radish Grill (see “Best Spot for a
• Best Newcomer: Lobby at Twelve, Romantic Dinner,” above) wins by a
361 17th St. (& 404/961-7370), hair. See p. 132.
inhabits the 5,000-square-foot space • Best Traditional Southern Cuisine:
at the bottom of Atlantic Station’s It’s a tie between Colonnade, 1879
Twelve Hotel. Lobby offers two din- Cheshire Bridge Rd. NE (& 404/874-
ing rooms divided by an open 5642), keeper of the best heirloom
kitchen, serving up a diverse menu. recipes; and Mary Mac’s Tea Room,
See p. 112. 224 Ponce de Leon Ave. NE (& 404/
• Best View: Canoe, 4199 Paces Ferry 876-1800), a legend in this city for
Rd. NW, in Vinings (& 770/432- more than 60 years. See p. 120 and
2663), is perched on the north side 118, respectively.
of the Chattahoochee River. Ask for a • Best Southwestern Cuisine: Nava,
table on the large, canopied patio, 3060 Peachtree Rd. (& 404/240-
surrounded by landscaped gardens, 1984), is a stunning restaurant with
and watch the river go by. See p. 142. food to match. See p. 132.
• Best Wine List: The Dining Room • Best Steakhouse: There’s quite a turf
at the Ritz-Carlton Buckhead, 3434 war going on, but Bone’s (see “Best
Peachtree Rd. NE (& 404/237- Spot for a Business Lunch,” above),
2700), is Atlanta’s premier dining that powerhouse for powerbrokers,
venue, and its cuisine is complemented gets my vote. See p. 123.
by a vast wine cellar. See p. 126.
 BEST DINING BETS 11

Fun Fact The Importance of P.C.

P.C. is a big priority in Atlanta. No, no—not P.C., as in political correctness. P.C.,
as in pimento cheese. And let’s get the pronunciation down right off the
bat. It’s puh-MEN-uh cheese, an utterly simple but delightful mixture, usu-
ally consisting of just three main ingredients—canned pimentos, cheese,
and some sort of binder, probably mayonnaise—slapped between two
pieces of white bread. Southern cooks have hot debates over the fine
points. Cheddar or Monterey Jack? Sharp or extra sharp? Duke’s mayon-
naise or Hellmann’s? Is onion okay? How about red-pepper flakes?
Regardless of the mixture, a pimento-cheese sandwich is right up there
with grits as one of the ultimate Southern comfort foods. It’s usually a
homemade concoction, not found on many restaurant menus. But Scott
Peacock, renowned executive chef of Watershed (p. 143) in Decatur, has
seen fit to include it among his lunch and dinner offerings. Here’s his take
on the venerable Southern classic. We recommend adding a little more
mayonnaise.
Watershed’s Pimento Cheese
21⁄2 cups (10 oz.) extra-sharp cheddar cheese, grated
1
⁄8 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste
salt to taste, if needed
5 or 6 grinds of black pepper
3
⁄4 cup homemade mayonnaise
3 tablespoons finely chopped pimento
In a mixing bowl, stir together all of the ingredients until well mixed and
creamy. Taste carefully for seasoning and adjust as needed. Cover and keep
refrigerated until ready to use. Makes about 2 cups.

• Best Fried Chicken: There are lots of has transitioned right along with this
New Southern restaurants trying to funky neighborhood. See p. 139.
invent newfangled ways to cook fried • Best Breakfast: The fun and funky
chicken. Well, they should just cut it Flying Biscuit Cafe, 1655 McLen-
out. And you should head to the don Ave. (& 404/687-8888), fulfills
Colonnade (see “Best Traditional all the usual breakfast expectations,
Southern Cuisine,” above) for some and also offers a great selection of off-
of the best fried chicken you’ve ever beat specialties. See p. 142.
tasted. This establishment has been • Best Afternoon Tea: Fresh-baked
turning it out for years, and they scones with Devonshire cream, finger
know what they’re doing. See p. 120. sandwiches, pastries, and tea are
• Best Brunch: The winner of this cat- served every afternoon in the posh
egory can be no other than Mur- lobby lounge of the Ritz-Carlton
phy’s, 997 Virginia Ave. NE (& 404/ Buckhead, 3434 Peachtree Rd. NE
872-0904), where the serving of (& 800/241-3333). See p. 93.
American and Continental cuisine
12 C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F AT L A N TA

• Best Desserts: Bacchanalia (see “Best • Best People-Watching: Famous

Spot for a Celebration,” above) takes beefeaters flock to Bone’s (see “Best
this category with its warm Valrhona Spot for a Business Lunch,” above),
chocolate cake with vanilla-bean ice which has welcomed the likes of Bob
cream—a flourless confection with a Hope, George Bush, and the Atlanta
sinful, gooey center. They tried to take Braves. See p. 123.
it off the menu once, but the public • Best Pre- and Post-Theater Dining:
outcry was too great. See p. 113. If you’re attending a show at the
• Best Late-Night Dining: Head to Woodruff Arts Center—Atlanta’s
the 24/7 R. Thomas Deluxe Grill, major performance facility—dine at
1812 Peachtree St. NW (& 404/872- Veni Vidi Vici, 41 14th St. (& 404/
2942), where you can eat some of the 875-8424), which opens early enough
healthiest fare in town at any hour of to have a relaxing meal. For post-
the day. See p. 121. theater noshing, try South City
• Best Decor: Bluepointe, 3455 Kitchen, 1144 Crescent Ave. (& 404/
Peachtree Rd. NE (& 404/237- 873-7358). See p. 120 and 119,
9070), is an energy-filled multilevel respectively.
restaurant in a soaring contemporary
space. Its dramatic decor feels very of-
the-moment and classy. See p. 131.
 2
Planning Your Trip to Atlanta
Itravel
n the pages that follow, you’ll find practical information that will help you make
arrangements, pick a time to visit, find local resources for specialized needs, and
even access tons of useful information on the Internet.

1 Visitor Information
As soon as you know you’re going to partners include the Atlanta Journal-
Atlanta, write or call the Atlanta Con- Constitution and WSB-TV and radio.
vention & Visitors Bureau (ACVB), There, you’ll find current local news, a
233 Peachtree St. NE, Suite 2000, 5-day weather forecast, street maps, and
Atlanta, GA 30303 (& 800/ATLANTA up-to-date information about special
or 404/222-6688). They’ll send you a events, the arts, entertainment, sports,
copy of Atlanta Heritage Guide, a visitors’ recreation, restaurants, shopping, and
guide, a book of discount coupons, a more. There’s even a link to the Atlanta
Metro Atlanta Map and Attractions Guide, Yellow Pages.
and a 2-month calendar of events; they Another site worth checking out is
can also advise you on anything from [Link]. Although
Atlanta’s hotel and restaurant scene to the it’s not as complete as [Link].
best tour packages available. Visit the com, it still has lots of useful information
ACVB website at [Link] for about the arts, entertainment, attractions,
lots of information. restaurants, shopping, and hotels. Finally,
You can also learn a lot about the city Creative Loafing ([Link]) features
and its latest happenings by visiting loads of entertainment information and
[Link], a website whose great restaurant reviews.

2 Entry Requirements & Customs for International Visitors

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS website at [Link] Inter-
PA S S P O R T S national visitors can obtain a visa applica-
For information on how to get a passport, tion at the same website.
go to “Passports” in the “Fast Facts:
VISAS
Atlanta” section of chapter 4—the web-
For information on how to get a visa, go
sites listed provide downloadable passport
to “Visas” in the “Fast Facts: Atlanta”
applications as well as the current fees for
section of chapter 4.
processing passport applications. For an
The U.S. Department of State has a
up-to-date, country-by-country listing of
Visa Waiver Program allowing citizens
passport requirements around the world,
of the following countries (at press time)
go to the “Foreign Entry Requirement”
to enter the United States without a visa
page of the U.S. Department of State
14 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO AT L A N TA

Destination: Atlanta—Red Alert Checklist

• Do any theater, restaurant, or travel reservations need to be booked in
advance?
• Did you bring a prepaid phone card to save big money on long-distance
calls to check in back home?
• Do you have a safe, accessible place to store money?
• Did you bring your ID cards that could entitle you to discounts, such as
AAA and AARP cards, student IDs, and so on?
• Did you bring emergency drug prescriptions and extra glasses and/or con-
tact lenses?
• Do you have your credit card PINs?
• If you have an e-ticket, do you have documentation and the credit card
you bought your ticket with or a frequent-flier card?
• Did you leave a copy of your itinerary with someone at home?

for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Aus- or vaccinations are not required for entry
tralia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Den- into the United States. If you have a med-
mark, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, ical condition that requires syringe-
Ireland, Italy, Japan, Liechtenstein, Lux- administered medications, carry a valid
embourg, Monaco, the Netherlands, signed prescription from your physician—
New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San the Federal Aviation Administration
Marino, Singapore, Slovenia, Spain, Swe- (FAA) no longer allows airline passengers
den, Switzerland, and the United King- to pack syringes in their carry-on baggage
dom. Citizens of these nations need only without documented proof of medical
a valid passport and a round-trip air or need. If you have a disease that requires
cruise ticket upon arrival. If they first treatment with narcotics, you should also
enter the United States, they may also carry documented proof with you—
visit Mexico, Canada, Bermuda, and/or smuggling narcotics aboard a plane is a
the Caribbean islands and return to the serious offense that carries severe penalties
United States without a visa. Further in the U.S.
information is available from any U.S. For HIV-positive visitors, require-
embassy or consulate. Canadian citizens ments for entering the United States are
may enter the United States without somewhat vague and change frequently.
visas; they need only proof of residence. For up-to-the-minute information, con-
Citizens of all other countries must tact AIDSinfo (& 800/448-0440 in the
have (1) a valid passport that expires at U.S., or 301/519-6616; [Link].
least 6 months later than the scheduled [Link]) or the Gay Men’s Health Crisis
end of their visit to the United States, and (& 212/367-1000; [Link]).
(2) a tourist visa, which may be obtained
without charge from any U.S. consulate. CUSTOMS
W H AT YO U C A N B R I N G I N
MEDICAL REQUIREMENTS Every visitor more than 21 years of age
Unless you’re arriving from an area known may bring into the U.S., free of duty, the
to be suffering from an epidemic (particu- following: (1) 1 liter of wine or hard
larly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations
 MONEY 15

liquor; (2) 200 cigarettes, 100 cigars (but the Canada Border Services Agency
not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking (& 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/
tobacco; and (3) $100 worth of gifts. 983-3500; [Link]).
These exemptions are offered to travelers U.K. Citizens
who spend at least 72 hours in the United For information, contact HM Revenue
States and who have not claimed them & Customs at & 0845/010-9000 (or
within the preceding 6 months. It is alto- 020/8929-0152 from outside the U.K.),
gether forbidden to bring into the coun- or go to [Link].
try foodstuffs (particularly fruit, cooked
meats, and canned goods) and plants Australian Citizens
(vegetables, seeds, tropical plants, and the A helpful brochure available from Aus-
like). Foreign tourists may carry in or out tralian consulates or Customs offices is
up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency Know Before You Go. For more informa-
with no formalities; larger sums must be tion, call the Australian Customs Ser-
declared to U.S. Customs on entering or vice at & 1300/363-263, or log on to
leaving, which includes filing form CM [Link].
4790. For details regarding U.S. Customs New Zealand Citizens
and Border Protection, consult your near- Most questions are answered in a free
est U.S. embassy or consulate, call U.S. pamphlet available at New Zealand con-
Customs (& 202/927-1770), or go to sulates and Customs offices: New
[Link]. Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers,
W H AT YO U C A N TA K E H O M E Notice no. 4. For more information, con-
Canadian Citizens tact New Zealand Customs Service, The
For a clear summary of Canadian rules, Customhouse, 17–21 Whitmore St., Box
write for the booklet I Declare, issued by 2218, Wellington (& 04/473-6099 or
0800/428-786; [Link]).

3 Money
ATMs transactions (up to $5 or more) than for
Nationwide, the easiest and best way to domestic ones (where they’re rarely more
get cash away from home is from an than $2). In addition, the bank from
ATM (automated teller machine), some- which you withdraw cash may charge its
times referred to as a “cash machine” or own fee. To compare banks’ ATM fees
“cashpoint.” The Cirrus (& 800/424- within the U.S., use [Link].
7787; [Link]) and PLUS For international withdrawal fees, ask
(& 800/843-7587; [Link]) net- your bank.
works span the country; you can find
them even in remote regions. Look at the
CREDIT CARDS & DEBIT CARDS
The most widely used form of payment
back of your bank card to see which net-
in the United States is credit cards: Visa
work you’re in; then call or check online
(Barclaycard in Britain), MasterCard
for ATM locations at your destination. Be
(EuroCard in Europe, Access in Britain,
sure you know your personal identifica-
Chargex in Canada), American Express,
tion number (PIN) and daily withdrawal
Diners Club, and Discover.
limit before you depart. Note: Remember
It’s highly recommended that you
that many banks impose a fee every time
travel with at least one major credit card.
you use a card at another bank’s ATM, and
You must have one to rent a car, and
that fee can be higher for international
16 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO AT L A N TA

Tips Money Changing Tips for International Travelers

You’ll avoid lines at airport ATMs by exchanging at least some money—just
enough to cover airport incidentals and transportation to your hotel—before
you leave home.
When you change money, ask for some small bills or loose change. Petty cash
will come in handy for tipping and public transportation. Consider keeping the
change separate from your larger bills, so that it’s readily accessible and you’ll
be less of a target for theft.

hotels and airlines usually require a credit charged an ATM withdrawal fee if the
card imprint as a deposit against expenses. bank is not your own, so if you’re with-
Credit cards also provide a convenient drawing money every day, you might be
record of all your expenses, and they gen- better off with traveler’s checks—provided
erally offer relatively good exchange rates. that you don’t mind showing identifica-
You can withdraw cash advances from tion every time you want to cash one.
your credit cards at banks or ATMs, pro- You can get traveler’s checks at almost
vided you know your PIN. any bank. American Express offers
Visitors from outside the U.S. should denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500,
inquire whether their bank assesses a 1% and (for cardholders only) $1,000. You’ll
to 3% fee on charges incurred abroad. pay a service charge ranging from 1% to
ATM cards with major credit card 4%. You can also get American Express
backing, known as debit cards, are now a traveler’s checks over the phone by calling
commonly accepted form of payment in & 800/221-7282; AmEx gold and plat-
most stores and restaurants. Debit cards inum cardholders who use this number
draw money directly from your checking are exempt from the 1% fee.
account. Some stores enable you to Visa offers traveler’s checks at Citibank
receive “cash back” on your debit card locations nationwide, as well as at several
purchases as well. The same is true at other banks. The service charge ranges
most U.S. post offices. between 1.5% and 2%; checks come in
denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500,
TRAVELER’S CHECKS and $1,000. Call & 800/732-1322 for
Traveler’s checks are something of an information. AAA members can obtain
anachronism from the days before the Visa checks without a fee at most AAA
ATM made cash accessible at any time. offices or by calling & 866/339-3378.
Traveler’s checks used to be the only MasterCard also offers traveler’s
sound alternative to traveling with dan- checks. Call & 800/223-9920 for a loca-
gerously large amounts of cash. They tion near you.
were as reliable as currency, but, unlike If you choose to carry traveler’s checks,
cash, could be replaced if lost or stolen. be sure to keep a record of their serial
These days, traveler’s checks are less numbers separate from your checks in the
necessary because most cities have 24- event that they are stolen or lost. You’ll
hour ATMs that allow you to withdraw get a refund faster if you know the
small amounts of cash as needed. How- numbers.
ever, keep in mind that you will likely be
 W H E N TO G O 17

4 When to Go
Although there is no high season for Don’t let the low average daytime tem-
tourism here, Atlanta is a major convention peratures for July, August, and early Sep-
and trade-show destination. Before choos- tember fool you. Summers can be hot and
ing travel dates, it’s wise to ask the Atlanta humid, with daytime highs reaching into
Convention & Visitors Bureau (ACVB; the 90s, although the really stifling spells
p. 58) or your travel agent what major usually last just a few days at a time.
events will be taking place in Atlanta when Annual rainfall is about 48 inches, and the
you plan to visit. Large conventions can wettest months are December through
mean an increase in hotel prices and longer April, plus July.
waits at popular restaurants.
Spring and autumn are long seasons,
and in terms of natural beauty and mod-
ATLANTA CALENDAR OF
erate temperatures, they’re ideal times to EVENTS
visit. April, when the dogwoods and azal- Note: Some events, such as the Georgia
Renaissance Festival and the Georgia Shake-
eas put on a brilliant, colorful display, is speare Festival, begin in one month and con-
especially lovely, but May and October tinue for several months thereafter. These are
are excellent months here, too. listed under the month in which they start, so
If you come during July and August, do look back and ahead a few months for infor-
when Atlanta gets a little steamy, you may mation on ongoing events. The ACVB’s website
find some hotels offering summer dis- ([Link]) also offers a terrific calendar
of events.
counts. Almost all accommodations offer
reduced rates during the Christmas holi- January
day season. Martin Luther King, Jr., Weekend.
This major event begins with an inter-
THE WEATHER faith service and includes musical trib-
Atlanta’s climate is mostly temperate year- utes, seminars, awards dinners, and
round. The city enjoys four distinct sea- speeches by notables. There are also
sons, but the variations are less extreme concerts by major performers (in past
than in other parts of the United States. years, Stevie Wonder and the Neville
It does get cold here in winter. The Brothers, among others, have per-
mercury dips below freezing—usually at formed). For details, contact the King
night—an average of 50 days a year, and Center (& 404/526-8900; [Link]
at least once a year there’s a snowfall or an [Link]). Second weekend of
ice storm. (Northern transplants think it’s January.
pretty hilarious the way an inch or two of
Cathedral Antiques Show. For 4 days,
snow can paralyze the city.) But for the
30 to 35 high-quality antiques dealers
most part, winter days are mild, and it’s
display their wares at the Cathedral of
often possible to enjoy the parks and even
St. Philip, 2744 Peachtree Rd. (at W.
the outdoor restaurants in the middle of
Wesley Rd.). The merchandise ranges
January or February.

Atlanta’s Average Daytime Temperature & Rainfall

Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec
Temp. °F/°C 52/11 57/14 65/18 73/23 80/27 87/31 89/32 88/31 82/28 73/23 63/17 55/13
Rainfall (in.) 5.0 4.7 5.4 3.6 4.0 3.6 5.1 3.7 4.0 3.1 4.1 3.8
18 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO AT L A N TA

from 18th- and 19th-century furnish- and next year’s intros. Tickets are $8
ings to vintage jewelry and Oriental for adults and $5 for children. For
rugs. Admission is $10 per day. On the details, call & 770/977-6301 or visit
first day of the show, a tour of homes [Link]. Five days in
and mansions in Buckhead is offered mid-March.
for an additional fee. For details, April
call & 404/365-1000. Last week in Easter Sunrise Services. This service is
January. held at the top and the base of Stone
March Mountain at 30 minutes before sun-
Southeastern Flower Show. One of the rise. Park gates open at 4am, and the
South’s premier gardening events, the skylift begins operating at 5am. For
flower show takes place for 5 days details, call & 770/498-5690 or visit
toward the beginning of the month at [Link]. Easter
the Atlanta Exposition Center, 3650 Sunday.
Jonesboro Rd. SE. You’ll find nearly 4 Atlanta Dogwood Festival. Held in
acres of stunning landscapes and gar- Piedmont Park, this huge festival fea-
dens displaying both flowers and plants. tures concerts, food booths, kite-flying
Garden-related products are sold at the contests, children’s activities, a juried
90-vendor marketplace; there are also arts-and-crafts show, the National
events for children and demonstrations Disc-Dog Championship (a canine
of gardening techniques. Admission is Frisbee tournament), and an exciting
$11 in advance, $15 at the door, with display of hot-air balloons. For details,
discounts for seniors and children. For call & 404/329-0501 or visit [Link]
information, directions, and tickets, call [Link]. Three days in mid-April.
& 404/351-1074 or visit [Link] Inman Park Spring Festival. This
[Link]. Five days in early March.
Atlanta suburb (the city’s oldest) is
Lasershow Spectacular. This extrava- noted for its gorgeous turn-of-the-20th-
ganza of laser lights and fireworks, held century Victorian mansions and Crafts-
at Stone Mountain Park, is choreo- man-style cottages. Activities include a
graphed to popular, patriotic, country, tour of homes, live entertainment (the-
and classical music. Admission is free, ater, jazz bands, cloggers, Irish music,
but you must pay $7 for a parking per- country music, and more), an arts-and-
mit to the park. For details, call & 770/ crafts festival/flea market, a parade, and
498-5690 or visit [Link] food vendors. Tickets to the tour of
[Link]. Beginning in March, the homes are $10 in advance, $12 the day
show is held on Saturdays at 8:30pm. of the tour. All other events are free. For
From Memorial Day weekend through more information, call & 770/242-
Labor Day, the show takes place 4895. Last weekend in April.
nightly at 9:30pm. After Labor Day, it
resumes its Saturday 8:30pm schedule Spring Campaign. Although there are
through October. several Civil War reenactments at
Stone Mountain Park during the year,
International Auto Show. Held at the this full-scale encampment of both
Georgia World Congress Center, this Union and Confederate soldiers is the
annual showcase features over 500 cur- most ambitious. It’s staged near the
rent-year import and domestic cars, Antebellum Plantation, and partici-
light trucks, vans, and SUVs. Special pants in uniforms and other period
attractions include concept cars, exotics, costumes demonstrate what life was
 AT L A N TA C A L E N D A R O F E V E N T S 19

like during the Civil War. Admission is with storytelling, readings, and book
free, but you must pay $7 to park. For signings. Events are free, except for the
details, call & 770/498-5690 or visit garden tour, which costs $10 for eight
[Link]. Late gardens. For details, call & 404/371-
April. 8386. Memorial Day weekend, but
Georgia Renaissance Festival. This most events take place on Saturday and
re-creation of a 16th-century English Sunday.
county fair (held in Fairburn—8 miles Atlanta Jazz Festival. This is a week of
south of the airport on I-85, Exit 61) jazz in different venues around the city,
boasts a 30-acre “village,” a juried beginning the week before Memorial
crafts show and marketplace with over Day and continuing through the holi-
100 craftspeople (many of them demon- day weekend. Past concerts have
strating 16th-century skills), continu- included such major stars as Wynton
ous entertainment on 12 stages (there Marsalis, Nancy Wilson, Shirley Horn,
are more than 100 shows each day), Cyrus Chestnut, Max Roach, and
period foods, a birds-of-prey show, and Sonny Rollins. Admission is charged to
a cast of costumed characters including most events, but concerts in Piedmont
jousting knights, jugglers, storytellers, Park on Memorial Day weekend are
giant stilt-walkers, minstrels, magi- free. The celebration in the park also
cians, and choral groups. King Henry includes artists’ booths and food ven-
VIII and one of his wives oversee the dors. For details, call the Performing
festivities. Admission is $15 for adults, Arts Hotline (& 404/817-6851), visit
$11 for seniors, $7 for kids 6 to 12. For [Link], or call the
details, call & 770/964-8575 or visit city’s Bureau of Cultural Affairs
[Link]. Saturdays and (& 404/817-6815). Begins the week
Sundays, mid-April to early June (plus before Memorial Day and continues
Memorial Day). through the holiday weekend.
May June
Gardens for Connoisseurs Tour. Gar- Virginia-Highland Summerfest. This
dening buffs will enjoy this excellent weekend neighborhood arts and music
tour, which allows a peek into several festival takes place along Virginia
outstanding private gardens. Tickets, Avenue near the intersection of North
which benefit the Atlanta Botanical Highland Avenue. There’s a juried arts-
Garden, are $20 for all the gardens or and-crafts show, an artists’ market, food
$10 for an individual garden. For booths, and plenty of free entertain-
details, call & 404/876-5859 or visit ment in John Howell Park. Afterward,
[Link]. take a stroll through Virginia-High-
Mother’s Day weekend. land, which has lots of galleries and
Decatur Arts Festival and Garden shops. All events are free. For more
Tour. This 3-day event features an art information, call & 404/222-8244,
show on the south lawn of the Old ext. 9, or visit [Link]. Weekend
Courthouse in Decatur, various juried in early June.
shows nearby, garden tours, mimes, Atlanta Film Festival. The IMAGE
jugglers, puppet shows, clowns, chil- (Independent Media Artists of Georgia
dren’s art activities, great food, and per- Etc.) Film & Video Center, 535 Means
formances by music, dance, and theater St., features hundreds of films by
groups. The literary arts are celebrated some of the country’s most important
20 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO AT L A N TA

independent media artists. Admission July

averages $6 per movie, and films are Asian Cultural Experience. The
shown at several venues around the Atlanta Botanical Garden celebrates
city, including some newly added out- Asian culture with demonstrations of
door ones. For details, call & 404/ crafts, musical performances, children’s
352-4225 or visit [Link]. activities, an art show, and dancing,
Nine days in mid-June. among other offerings. Admission is
Georgia Shakespeare Festival. Five included with paid entrance to the
productions are presented from mid- Botanical Garden. For details, call
June through November on the campus & 404/876-5859 or visit [Link]
of Oglethorpe University, 4484 [Link]. Weekend in early
Peachtree Rd., in the intimate 510-seat July.
Conant Performing Arts Center. Before Independence Day. If you’re willing
the summer performances, audiences to get up early on July 4th, you can
enjoy farcical vignettes on the lawn. start the day’s celebrations by watching
Everyone brings a pre-performance pic- 55,000 runners pound the pavement
nic or arranges in advance to purchase it in the Peachtree Road Race, a 10K
on the premises. The company, made run down Peachtree Road from Lenox
up of Actors Equity pros for the most Square to Piedmont Park. For details,
part, offers both traditional and innova- call & 404/231-9064.
tive Shakespearean productions as well Later in the afternoon, take in
as other classics. Picnic grounds open Atlanta’s star-spangled Salute 2 Amer-
11⁄2 hours before summer performances, ica Parade. The floats, marching
and the pre-show begins 1 hour before bands, and giant helium-filled balloons
curtain time. There are both matinees start their marching, rolling, and float-
and evening performances. Admission ing at Centennial Olympic Park at
is $20 to $35 for adults. Call for tickets 1pm, then travel down Marietta Street
as far in advance as possible, especially to Five Points. For information, call
for weekend performances. For infor- & 404/897-7855. Afterward, there’s
mation about tickets or picnic lunches, more free entertainment and music in
call & 404/264-0020 or visit [Link] Centennial Olympic Park; the best
[Link]. Mid-June through part is the stunning fireworks display
November. at night. For information, call & 404/
Stone Mountain Village Annual Arts 222-7275.
& Crafts Festival. This family- An old-fashioned Fourth of July
oriented festival has something for Parade, complete with floats, bands,
everyone. More than 125 Southeastern baton twirlers, cloggers, and more,
craftspeople display their wares in a takes place in Stone Mountain Village,
juried show, and entertainment (clog- traveling from Mountain Street at the
gers, clowns, country music, and foot of the west gate of Stone Moun-
more) is offered continually in the Vil- tain Park along Main Street through
lage. There are food booths and lots of the Village shopping area. The stores
activities for kids, too. Admission is $1 are open, and when the parade’s over,
for adults, free for children under 12. there’s free watermelon for everyone at
For details, call & 770/879-4971. the visitor center. The parade begins at
Father’s Day weekend. 10am, preceded by a 5K run at 7am.
For details, call & 770/879-4971. The
 AT L A N TA C A L E N D A R O F E V E N T S 21

Impressions
We’re going to ride these buses desegregated in Atlanta, Georgia, or we’re
going to ride a chariot in heaven or push a wheelbarrow in hell.
—Rev. William Holmes Borders, civil rights leader, 1957
Atlanta is like Los Angeles was before it went bad.
—Jane Fonda, activist, 1996

biggest attraction at Stone Mountain different venues around the city,

Park’s Fantastic Fourth Celebration is including Centennial Olympic Park
the extravagant fireworks display after and Piedmont Park. Admission is
the star-spangled laser show. Many charged to most events, but concerts in
people make a day of it, coming early Piedmont Park on Labor Day weekend
for the race and parade, picnicking in are free. The Labor Day celebration in
the park, and staying through the the park also features artists’ booths
grand finale of the fireworks. For and food vendors. For details, call the
details, call & 770/498-5690 or visit Performing Arts Hotline (& 404/817-
[Link]. 6851), visit [Link],
About 100,000 people gather every or call the city’s Bureau of Cultural
July 4th at Underground Atlanta for a Affairs (& 404/817-6815). A week-
multicultural celebration featuring live long affair ending on the Monday of
entertainment from a variety of back- Labor Day weekend.
grounds. Call & 404/523-2311 for September
details. July 4th. Art in the Park. This Labor Day week-
National Black Arts Festival. More end art show, on the historic square in
than 150 events (most of them free) take Marietta (just northwest of Atlanta),
place throughout the city during this fes- offers fine art by more than 120 artists,
tival. Billed as “a celebration of the plus food and antiques. Admission is
sights, sounds, and expressions of the free. Call & 770/429-1115 for details.
African Diaspora,” it features concerts Labor Day weekend.
(including such big names as Abbey Lin- Yellow Daisy Festival. Stone Moun-
coln and Wynton Marsalis), theater, tain Park hosts a vast outdoor arts-and-
film, dance, storytelling, poetry read- crafts show (more than 400 exhibitors)
ings, performance art, art and folk-art with musical entertainment, a flower
exhibitions, children’s activities, work- show, great food, clogging, and story-
shops, African puppet shows, and more. tellers. About 175,000 people attend
For details, call & 404/730-0177 or each year. For details, call & 770/
visit [Link]. A 10-day affair 498-5690 or visit [Link]
(even-numbered years only) in late July [Link]. Weekend after Labor Day.
and early August. The next one is in
October
2008.
Annual Scottish Festival and High-
August land Games. This gathering of the
Montreux Atlanta Music Festival. clans at Stone Mountain comprises 2
Jazz, blues, gospel, reggae, and zydeco days of Highland dancing, pipe and
music are performed by both regional drum concerts, Scottish harping and
and internationally known artists in fiddling, sword dancing, reel dancing,
22 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO AT L A N TA

lilting, and athletic events such as the Stone Mountain Village Candlelight
hammer throw and caber toss. For Shopping. Every Thursday and Friday
details and entrance fees, call & 770/ night until 9pm, beginning the Thurs-
498-5690 or visit [Link] day before Thanksgiving and continu-
[Link]. Mid-October. ing until Christmas, this charming
Sunday in the Park at Oakland Ceme- shopping village lures shoppers with
tery. On an October Sunday every year, candlelight and the aroma of mulled
this graveyard party features storytellers, cider. A jolly St. Nick, strolling carol-
historians, guided tours, a hat and cos- ers, gaily lighted trees, and carriage
tume contest, turn-of-the-20th-century rides are part of the fun. Admission is
music, and Victorian boutiques. Admis- free. The Village also hosts the Sugar
sion is free. For a small charge, you can Plum Festival, a breakfast with Santa
reserve a picnic lunch. Call & 404/688- Claus from 7 to 11am on the first Sat-
2107 or visit [Link] urday of December. The $5 admission
for details. Sunday in October. includes breakfast and a photograph
with Santa. Call & 770/879-4971
November
for details. Every Thursday and Friday
Veterans Day Parade. Atlanta mounts night, beginning the Thursday before
an impressive version of this parade Thanksgiving and continuing until
each year, with floats, drill teams, Christmas.
marching bands, clowns, color guards,
and more. The parade begins at 11am Holiday High Lights. When Rich’s
at 16th Street and Peachtree Street in department store decided to move its
Midtown and proceeds south to 10th giant Christmas tree to Lenox Square
Street. Veterans Day. from Underground Atlanta, it looked
as if a longtime Atlanta holiday fixture
An Olde-Fashioned Christmas. The would be history. But World of Coca-
holiday season kicks off with an array Cola and Underground Atlanta
of events at Stone Mountain Park from quickly stepped in to continue the tra-
mid-November to December 30 (daily dition of an enormous, exquisitely dec-
6–10pm, except for Dec 24 and 25). orated tree and an accompanying
Tour the authentically decorated Ante- holiday celebration in the heart of
bellum Plantation, where you’ll find a downtown. Festivities kick off with the
five-story poinsettia Christmas tree, tree-lighting in the plaza between
crafters, carolers, storytellers, and a live Underground and World of Coca-Cola
nativity scene. The open-air Scenic on the Saturday after Thanksgiving.
Railroad is decorated to the hilt, too, Family-friendly activities featuring the
and travels through a spectacular array Underground Express Train and the
of Christmas-light displays as it makes Coca-Cola Polar Bear are on offer from
its way around the base of Stone the Saturday after Thanksgiving on.
Mountain. Santa Claus is here, and For details, call & 404/676-5151.
there’s also an animated children’s pro- Take MARTA to the Five Points sta-
gram with a talking Christmas tree. tion for the lighting, which is usually
Admission is $10 for adults and $5 for attended by thousands. Tree lighting
children, in addition to the $6 parking takes place on the Saturday after
charge. For details, call & 770/498- Thanksgiving; the tree is up through
5690 or visit [Link] December 30.
[Link]. Mid-November through
December 30.
 T R AV E L I N S U R A N C E 23

December include carolers, bell ringers, children’s

Children’s Healthcare of Atlanta theater, entertainers, chestnuts roasting
Christmas Parade and Festival of on an open fire, pony rides, cranberry
Trees. The parade is a major to-do, and popcorn stringing, and strolling
with award-winning bands, lavish hol- mimes, musicians, and magicians.
iday-themed floats, helium-balloon Christmas crafts such as wreath-mak-
cartoon characters, and, of course, ing are demonstrated, and you can
Santa Claus. It kicks off the 9-day Fes- shop for handmade gifts and home-
tival of Trees at the Georgia World made baked goods. Admission is free.
Congress Center, for which Atlanta For details and to inquire about off-site
artists and designers lavishly decorate parking and shuttle buses, call & 404/
trees, wreaths, and Christmas vignettes 876-5859 or visit [Link]
that are exhibited and auctioned off to [Link]. First Sunday in December.
benefit Children’s Healthcare of Peach Bowl Game. This exciting foot-
Atlanta. The festival also features live ball game is held annually at the Geor-
entertainment, cooking demonstra- gia Dome. Tickets are hard to come by;
tions, an antique carousel, a roller reserve well in advance. Call & 404/
coaster, a giant slide, a balloon ride, 586-8499 for information. Sometime
international holiday displays, and between Christmas and New Year’s
more. Admission to the festival is $8 (occasionally in early Jan).
for adults, $5 for seniors and children
2 to 12. For tickets, call & 404/785- New Year’s Eve. The Big Peach that
8815. The parade begins at 10:30am, rings in Atlanta’s New Year is dropped
and the festival follows. For informa- at the stroke of midnight from the 138-
tion, call & 404/325-NOEL or visit foot light tower at Underground
[Link]/festival. First Saturday Atlanta. But festivities begin earlier
in December. (about 8pm), with live music for danc-
ing in the streets, a pyrotechnic display
Holiday in the Garden. The Atlanta and laser show, balloons, and usually a
Botanical Garden is beautifully deco- marching band. Call & 404/523-2311
rated, and highlights of the afternoon for details.

5 Travel Insurance
The cost of travel insurance varies widely,
travel supplier goes bankrupt. Permissible
depending on the cost and length of your reasons for trip cancellation can range
trip, your age and health, and the type from sickness to natural disasters to the
of trip you’re taking, but expect to pay Department of State declaring a destina-
between 5% and 8% of the vacation tion unsafe for travel.
itself. You can get estimates from various For more information, contact one of
providers through [Link]. the following recommended insurers:
Enter your trip cost and dates, your age, Access America (& 866/807-3982; www.
and other information for quotes from [Link]), Travel Guard Inter-
more than a dozen companies. national (& 800/826-4919; [Link]
[Link]), Travel Insured International
TRIP-CANCELLATION (& 800/243-3174; [Link].
INSURANCE com), and Travelex Insurance Ser-
Trip-cancellation insurance will help vices (& 888/457-4602; [Link]-
retrieve your money if you have to back [Link]).
out of a trip or depart early, or if your
24 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO AT L A N TA

Travel in the Age of Bankruptcy

Airlines go bankrupt, so protect yourself by buying your tickets with a credit
card. The Fair Credit Billing Act guarantees that you can get your money back
from the credit card company if a travel supplier goes under (and if you request
the refund within 60 days of the bankruptcy). Travel insurance can also help,
but make sure it covers against “carrier default” for your specific travel
provider. And be aware that if a U.S. airline goes bust mid-trip, a 2001 federal
law requires other carriers to take you to your destination (albeit on a space-
available basis) for a fee of no more than $25, provided you rebook within 60
days of the cancellation.

MEDICAL INSURANCE a holiday. Think before you sign. Britain’s

Although it’s not required of travelers, Consumers’ Association recommends
health insurance is highly recommended. that you insist on seeing the policy and
Most health-insurance policies cover reading the fine print before buying travel
you if you get sick away from home—but insurance. The Association of British
verify that you’re covered before you Insurers (& 020/7600-3333; [Link].
depart, particularly if you’re insured by an [Link]) gives advice by phone and pub-
HMO. lishes Holiday Insurance, a free guide to
International visitors should note that policy provisions and prices. You might
unlike many European countries, the also shop around for better deals: Try
United States does not usually offer free or Columbus Direct (& 0870/033- 9988;
low-cost medical care to its citizens or vis- [Link]).
itors. Doctors and hospitals are expensive, INSURANCE FOR CANADIAN
and in most cases will require advance TRAVELERS Canadians should check
payment or proof of coverage before they with their provincial health plan office or
render their services. Good policies will call Health Canada (& 866/225-0709;
cover the costs of an accident, repatria- [Link]) to find out the extent of
tion, or death. Packages such as Europ their coverage and what documentation
Assistance’s “Worldwide Healthcare and receipts they must take home in case
Plan” are sold by European automobile they are treated in the United States.
clubs and travel agencies at attractive
rates. Worldwide Assistance Services, LOST-LUGGAGE INSURANCE
Inc. (& 800/777-8710; [Link] On flights within the U.S., checked bag-
[Link]) is the agent for Europ gage is covered up to $2,500 per ticketed
Assistance in the United States. passenger. On flights outside the U.S. (and
Though lack of health insurance may on U.S. portions of international trips),
prevent you from being admitted to a baggage coverage is limited to approxi-
hospital in nonemergencies, don’t worry mately $9.07 per pound, up to approxi-
about being left on a street corner to die: mately $635 per checked bag. If you plan
The American way is to fix you now and to check items more valuable than what’s
bill the living daylights out of you later. covered by the standard liability, see if your
homeowner’s policy covers your valuables,
INSURANCE FOR BRITISH TRAV-
get baggage insurance as part of your com-
ELERS Most big travel agents offer
prehensive travel-insurance package, or
their own insurance and will probably try
buy Travel Guard’s “BagTrak” product.
to sell you their package when you book
 H E A LT H & S A F E T Y 25

If your luggage is lost, immediately file or lost baggage within 4 hours of arrival.
a lost-luggage claim at the airport, detail- The airlines are required to deliver lug-
ing the luggage contents. Most airlines gage, once found, directly to your house
require that you report delayed, damaged, or destination free of charge.

6 Health & Safety

STAYING HEALTHY identification tag (& 888/633-4298;
Hospitals and emergency numbers are [Link]), which will immedi-
listed under “Fast Facts: Atlanta,” p. 68. ately alert doctors to your condition and
Contact the International Associa- give them access to your records through
tion for Medical Assistance to Travelers MedicAlert’s 24-hour hot line.
(IAMAT; & 716/754-4883, or 416/ Pack prescription medications in
652-0137 in Canada; [Link]) for your carry-on luggage, and carry them in
tips on travel and health concerns in the their original containers with pharmacy
countries you’re visiting, as well as for lists labels affixed—otherwise they won’t
of local English-speaking doctors. The make it through airport security. Also
U.S. Centers for Disease Control and bring along copies of your prescriptions
Prevention (& 800/311-3435; www. in case you lose your pills or run out.
[Link]) provides up-to-date information Don’t forget an extra pair of contact
on health hazards by region or country lenses or prescription glasses.
and offers tips on food safety. The website For domestic trips, most reliable
[Link], sponsored by a con- healthcare plans provide coverage if you
sortium of travel-medicine practitioners, get sick away from home. For travel
may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad, you may have to pay all medical
abroad. You can find listings of reliable costs upfront and be reimbursed later. See
clinics overseas at the website of the “Medical Insurance” under “Travel Insur-
International Society of Travel Medi- ance,” above.
cine ([Link]).
If you suffer from a chronic illness, con- STAYING SAFE
sult your doctor before your departure. GENERAL SAFETY
For conditions like epilepsy, diabetes, Atlanta’s neighborhoods are relatively
or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert safe, but it’s wise to exercise caution at

Avoiding “Economy Class Syndrome”

Deep vein thrombosis, or “economy-class syndrome,” as it’s known in the
world of flying, is a blood clot that develops in a deep vein. It’s a potentially
deadly condition that can be caused by sitting in cramped conditions—such as
an airplane cabin—for too long. During a flight (especially a long-haul flight),
get up, walk around, and stretch your legs every 60 to 90 minutes to keep your
blood flowing. Other preventative measures include frequent flexing of the
legs while sitting, drinking lots of water, and avoiding alcohol and sleeping
pills. If you have a history of deep vein thrombosis, heart disease, or another
condition that puts you at high risk, some experts recommend wearing com-
pression stockings or taking anticoagulants when you fly; always ask your
physician about the best course for you. Symptoms of deep vein thrombosis
include leg pain or swelling, or even shortness of breath.
26 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO AT L A N TA

Healthy Travels to You

The following government websites offer up-to-date health-related travel advice:
• Australia: [Link]/travel
• Canada: [Link]/index_e.html
• U.K.: [Link]/PolicyAndGuidance/HealthAdviceForTravellers/fs/en
• U.S.: [Link]/travel

night near Underground Atlanta, as well DRIVING SAFETY

as around the major venues for sporting Question your rental agency about per-
events. Most of the central city is prima- sonal safety and ask for a traveler-safety
rily a business district that closes up after brochure when you pick up your car.
dark, so it’s a good idea to stay within the Obtain written directions—or a map with
downtown hotel and entertainment dis- the route clearly marked—from the
trict, which is likely to be much busier. agency showing how to get to your desti-
Buckhead, a major restaurant and bar nation. (Many agencies now offer the
scene, is safe as long as the crowds are out. option of renting a cellular phone for the
Recently, however, a few square blocks of duration of your car rental; check with the
Buckhead’s entertainment district— rental agent when you pick up the car.)
where most of the bars are located—have Recently, more and more crime has
been plagued by overly rowdy behavior involved cars and drivers. If you drive off
and incidents of violent crime. Much of a highway into a doubtful neighborhood,
the undesirable activity takes place after leave the area as quickly as possible. If you
midnight or in the wee hours as the bars have an accident, even on the highway,
are winding down, so be alert. stay in your car with the doors locked
Avoid carrying valuables with you on until you assess the situation or until the
the street, and don’t display expensive police arrive. If you’re bumped from
cameras or electronic equipment. If you behind on the street or are involved in a
are using a map, consult it inconspicu- minor accident with no injuries and the
ously—or better yet, try to study it before situation appears to be suspicious, motion
you leave your hotel. Hold onto your to the other driver to follow you. Never
pocketbook, and place your billfold in an get out of your car in such situations. Go
inside pocket. In theaters, restaurants, directly to the nearest police precinct,
and other public places, keep your posses- well-lit service station, or 24-hour store.
sions in sight. Always try to park in well-lit and well-
Remember also that hotels are open to traveled areas if possible. Never leave any
the public, and in a large hotel, security packages or valuables in sight. If someone
may not be able to screen everyone enter- attempts to rob you or steal your car,
ing. Always lock your room door—don’t don’t try to resist the thief/carjacker—
assume that once inside your hotel you report the incident to the police depart-
are automatically safe and no longer need ment immediately by calling & 911.
to be aware of your surroundings.

7 Specialized Travel Resources

TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES and resources out there than ever before.
Most disabilities shouldn’t stop anyone Before planning a trip to Atlanta, travelers
from traveling. There are more options with disabilities should request A Guide to
 S P E C I A L I Z E D T R AV E L R E S O U R C E S 27

Atlanta for People with Disabilities, avail- and students), which offers a wealth of
able from the Shepherd Center, a nation- travel resources for all types of disabilities
ally renowned Atlanta hospital specializing and informed recommendations on desti-
in the treatment of spinal-cord injuries nations, access guides, travel agents, tour
and diseases. The guide rates the accessi- operators, vehicle rentals, and companion
bility of local museums, parks, restau- services; and the American Foundation
rants, hotels, theaters, sports venues, and for the Blind (AFB) (& 800/232-5463;
other popular tourist stops. Accessibility is [Link]), a referral resource for the
assessed in several categories, including blind and visually impaired that includes
restrooms, parking, main entrance, and information on traveling with Seeing
telephone. The booklet also lists services Eye dogs.
and other information of interest to trav- For more information specifically tar-
elers with disabilities. For a free copy, geted to travelers with disabilities, check
contact the Noble Learning Resource out the magazines Emerging Horizons
Center, Shepherd Center, 2020 Peachtree ($15 per year, $20 outside the U.S.;
Rd. NW, Atlanta, GA 30309 (& 404/ [Link]) and Open
350-7473). The guide is also available at World ($13 per year, $21 outside the U.S.;
[Link]. published by SATH, described above).
Many travel agencies offer customized
tours and itineraries for travelers with dis- GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS
abilities. Flying Wheels Travel (& 507/ Atlanta has a large gay community. You’ll
451-5005; [Link]) want to check out Southern Voice, a news-
offers escorted tours and cruises that paper that covers gay issues across the
emphasize sports, as well as private tours Southeast. Call & 404/876-1819 for
in minivans with lifts. Access-Able information or go to [Link]
Travel Source (& 303/232-2979; www. [Link] for a comprehensive online
[Link]) offers extensive access edition, including information on distri-
information and advice for traveling bution points near your hotel.
around the world with disabilities. Acces- Once you arrive, you might want to
sible Journeys (& 800/846-4537 or visit Outwrite Bookstore & Coffee-
610/521-0339; [Link]) house, 991 Piedmont Ave., at 10th Street
caters specifically to slow walkers and (& 404/607-0082; [Link].
wheelchair travelers and their families com). It’s a popular Midtown gathering
and friends. spot for gay men and lesbians, and a sort
Avis Rent a Car has an “Avis Access” of unofficial clearinghouse for information
program that offers such services as a ded- on local gay and lesbian resources, events,
icated 24-hour toll-free number (& 888/ and issues.
879-4273) for customers with special The International Gay and Lesbian
travel needs; special car features such as Travel Association (IGLTA) (& 800/
swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand 448-8550 or 954/776-2626; [Link].
controls; and accessible bus service. org), the trade association for the gay and
Organizations that offer assistance to lesbian travel industry, offers an online
travelers with disabilities include Moss- directory of gay- and lesbian-friendly
Rehab ([Link]), which travel businesses; go to its website and
provides a library of accessible-travel click on “Members.”
resources online; SATH (Society Many agencies offer tours and itineraries
for Accessible Travel & Hospitality) specifically for gay and lesbian travelers.
(& 212/447-7284; [Link]; annual Above and Beyond Tours (& 800/397-
membership fees: $45 adults, $30 seniors
28 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO AT L A N TA

2681; [Link]) is the Members of AARP (formerly known as

exclusive gay and lesbian tour operator for the American Association of Retired Per-
United Airlines. Now, Voyager (& 800/ sons), 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC
255-6951; [Link]) is a 20049 (& 888/687-2277; [Link]),
well-known San Francisco–based gay- get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car
owned and -operated travel service. Olivia rentals. AARP offers members a wide range
Cruises & Resorts (& 800/631-6277; of benefits, including AARP: The Magazine
[Link]) charters entire resorts and and a monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50
ships for exclusive lesbian vacations and can join.
offers smaller group experiences for both The U.S. National Park Service offers
gay and lesbian travelers. a Golden Age Passport that gives seniors
[Link] Travel (& 800/929-2268 or 62 and older lifetime entrance to all prop-
415/644-8044; [Link]/travel or erties administered by the National Park
[Link]), is an excellent Service—national parks, monuments,
online successor to the popular Out & historic sites, recreation areas, and
About print magazine. It provides regularly national wildlife refuges—for a one-time
updated information about gay-owned, processing fee of $10. It must be pur-
gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, chased in person at any NPS facility that
dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shop- charges an entrance fee. Besides free
ping establishments in every important entry, the Golden Age Passport also offers
destination worldwide. It also offers trip- a 50% discount on federal-use fees
planning information for gay and lesbian charged for such facilities as camping,
travelers for more than 50 destinations, swimming, parking, boat launching, and
along various themes, ranging from Sex tours. For more information, go to
& Travel to Vacations for Couples. [Link]/fees_passes.htm or call
The following travel guides are avail- & 888/467-2757.
able at many bookstores, or you can order Many reliable agencies and organiza-
them from any online bookseller: Spar- tions target the 50-plus market. Elder-
tacus International Gay Guide (Bruno hostel (& 877/426-8056; [Link]
Gmünder Verlag; [Link]. [Link]) arranges study programs for
com/gayguide/) and Odysseus: The Inter- those 55 and over (and a spouse or com-
national Gay Travel Planner (Odysseus panion of any age) in the U.S. and in
Enterprises Ltd.), both good, annual, more than 80 countries around the
English-language guidebooks focused on world. Most courses last 5 to 7 days in the
gay men; and the Damron guides (www. U.S. (2–4 weeks abroad), and many
[Link]), with separate, annual include airfare, accommodations in uni-
books for gay men and lesbians. versity dormitories or modest inns, meals,
and tuition. ElderTreks (& 800/741-
SENIOR TRAVEL 7956; [Link]) offers small-
Mention the fact that you’re a senior group tours to off-the-beaten-path or
when you make your travel reservations. adventure-travel locations, restricted to
Although all of the major U.S. airlines travelers 50 and older. INTRAV (& 800/
except America West have canceled their 456-8100; [Link]) is a high-end
senior discount programs, many hotels still tour operator that caters to the mature,
offer discounts for seniors. In most cities, discerning traveler (not specifically sen-
those over the age of 60 qualify for reduced iors), with trips around the world that
admission to theaters, museums, and other include guided safaris, polar expeditions,
attractions, as well as discounted fares on
public transportation.
 S P E C I A L I Z E D T R AV E L R E S O U R C E S 29

private-jet adventures, and small-boat Frommer’s Unofficial Guide to the

cruises down jungle rivers. Southeast with Kids (Wiley Publishing,
Recommended publications offering Inc.) also includes information on kid-
travel resources and discounts for seniors friendly attractions in and around Atlanta.
include the quarterly magazine Travel
50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond. AFRICAN-AMERICAN
com); Travel Unlimited: Uncommon TRAVELERS
Adventures for the Mature Traveler Agencies and organizations that provide
(Avalon); 101 Tips for Mature Travel- resources for black travelers in particular
ers, available from Grand Circle Travel include Rodgers Travel (& 800/825-
(& 800/221-2610 or 617/350-7500; 1775; [Link]), the
[Link]); and Unbelievably Good African American Association of
Deals and Great Adventures That You Innkeepers International (& 877/422-
Absolutely Can’t Get Unless You’re Over 5777; [Link]),
50 (McGraw-Hill). and Henderson Travel & Tours (& 800/
327-2309 or 301/650-5700; www.
FAMILY TRAVEL [Link]), which has also
If you have enough trouble getting your specialized in trips to Africa since 1957.
children out of the house in the morning, Black Travel Online ([Link]
dragging them thousands of miles away [Link]) posts news on upcoming
may seem like an insurmountable chal- events and includes links to articles and
lenge. But as any veteran family vaca- travel-booking sites. Soul of America
tioner will assure you, a trip with the kids ([Link]) is a compre-
can be among the most pleasurable and hensive website with travel tips, event
rewarding times of your life. Some of information, family-reunion postings,
Atlanta’s best attractions for families are and sections on historically black beach
discussed on p. 180. A list of kid-friendly resorts and active vacations.
hotels can be found on p. 83, while For more information, check out the
restaurants that kids will love are men- following collections and guides: Go Girl:
tioned on p. 112. The Black Woman’s Guide to Travel &
Familyhostel (& 800/733-9753) Adventure (Eighth Mountain Press), a
takes the whole family, including kids 8 compilation of travel essays by writers
to 15, on moderately priced domestic and including Jill Nelson and Audre Lorde;
international learning vacations. Lec- The African American Travel Guide, by
tures, field trips, and sightseeing are Wayne Robinson (Hunter Publishing;
guided by a team of academics. [Link]); Steppin’
Recommended family-travel websites Out, by Carla Labat (Avalon); Travel and
include Family Travel Forum (www. Enjoy Magazine (& 866/266-6211;
[Link]), a comprehen- [Link]); and Pathfind-
sive resource that offers customized trip ers Magazine (& 877/977-PATH; www.
planning; Family Travel Network (www. [Link]), which includes
[Link]), an award- articles on everything from Rio de Janeiro
winning site that offers travel features, to Ghana as well as information on upcom-
deals, and tips; and Family Travel Files ing ski, diving, golf, and tennis trips.
([Link]), which
offers an online magazine and a directory STUDENT TRAVEL
of off-the-beaten-path tours and tour A valid student ID will often qualify stu-
operators for families. dents for discounts on airfare, accommoda-
tions, museum admissions, cultural events,
30 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO AT L A N TA

movies, and more. If you’re planning to If you’re no longer a student but are still
travel outside the U.S., you’d be wise to under 26, you can get an International
arm yourself with an International Stu- Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same
dent Identity Card (ISIC), which offers company; it entitles you to some discounts
substantial savings on rail passes, plane (but not on museum admissions). Travel
tickets, and entrance fees. It also provides CUTS (& 800/667-2887 or 416/614-
you with basic health and life insurance 2887; [Link]) offers similar
and a 24-hour help line. The card is avail- services for Canadians. USIT (& 01/602-
able from STA Travel (& 800/781-4040 1600; [Link]) is an Ireland-based
in North America; [Link]), the specialist in student, youth, and independ-
biggest student travel agency in the world. ent travel.

8 Planning Your Trip Online

SURFING FOR AIRFARES to and from your destination, go to “Get-
The “big three” online travel agencies, ting There,” p. 35.
[Link], [Link], and Orb- Great last-minute deals are available
[Link], sell most of the air tickets bought through free weekly e-mail services pro-
on the Internet. (Canadian travelers vided directly by the airlines. Most of
should try [Link] and [Link]; these are announced on Tuesday or
U.K. residents can go to [Link] and Wednesday and must be purchased
[Link].) Each has different business online. Most are only valid for travel that
deals with the airlines and may offer differ- weekend, but some (such as Southwest’s)
ent fares on the same flights, so it’s wise to can be booked weeks or months in
shop around. Expedia and Travelocity will advance. Sign up for weekly e-mail alerts
also send you e-mail notification when a at airline websites or check megasites that
cheap fare becomes available to your compile comprehensive lists of last-
favorite destination. Of the smaller travel- minute specials, such as Smarter Travel
agency websites, SideStep ([Link] ([Link]). For last-minute
[Link]) has gotten the best reviews from trips, [Link] and LastMinute-
Frommer’s authors. It’s a browser add-on [Link] often have better air-and-
that purports to “search 140 sites at once,” hotel package deals than the major-label
but in reality only beats competitors’ fares sites. A website listing numerous bargain
as often as other sites do. sites and airlines around the world is
Also remember to check airline web- [Link].
sites, especially those for low-fare carriers If you’re willing to give up some con-
such as Southwest, JetBlue, AirTran, trol over your flight details, use what is
WestJet, or Ryanair, whose fares are often called an “opaque” fare service like
misreported or simply missing from Priceline ([Link]; [Link]
travel-agency websites. Even with major [Link] for Europeans) or its smaller
airlines, you can often shave a few bucks competitor Hotwire ([Link].
from a fare by booking directly through com). Both offer rock-bottom prices in
the airline and avoiding a travel agency’s exchange for travel on a “mystery airline”
transaction fee. But you’ll get these dis- at a mysterious time of day, often with a
counts only by booking online: Most mysterious change of planes en route.
airlines now offer online-only fares that The mystery airlines are all major, well-
even their phone agents know nothing known carriers—and the possibility of
about. For the websites of airlines that fly being sent from Philadelphia to Chicago
 P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P O N L I N E 31

via Tampa is remote; the airlines’ routing they must, for prices can vary consider-
computers have gotten a lot better than ably from site to site. And keep in mind
they used to be. Your chances of getting a that hotels at the top of a site’s listing may
6am or 11pm flight, however, are still be there for no other reason than that
pretty high. Hotwire tells you flight they paid money to get the placement.
prices before you buy; Priceline usually Of the “big three” sites, Expedia offers
has better deals than Hotwire, but you a long list of special deals and virtual tours
have to play its “name-our-price” game. If of available rooms so you can see what
you’re new at this, the helpful folks you’re paying for (a feature that helps
at BiddingForTravel ([Link] counter the claims that the best rooms are
[Link]) do a good job of demystifying often held back from bargain-booking
Priceline’s prices and strategies. Note: In websites). Travelocity posts unvarnished
2004, Priceline added non-opaque serv- customer reviews and ranks its properties
ice to its roster. You now have the option according to the AAA rating system.
to pick exact flights, times, and airlines Also reliable are [Link] and
from a list of offers—or opt to bid on [Link]. An excellent free pro-
opaque fares as before. gram, TravelAxe ([Link]), can
For much more about airfares, as well help you search multiple hotel sites at
as savvy air-travel tips and advice, pick up once, even ones you may never have heard
a copy of Frommer’s Fly Safe, Fly Smart of—and conveniently lists the total price
(Wiley Publishing, Inc.). of the room, including the taxes and serv-
ice charges. Another booking site, Travel-
SURFING FOR HOTELS web ([Link]), is partly
Shopping online for hotels is generally owned by the hotels it represents (includ-
done one of two ways: by booking ing the Hilton, Hyatt, and Starwood
through the hotel’s own website or chains) and is therefore plugged directly
through an independent booking agency into the hotels’ reservations systems—
(or a fare-service agency like Priceline; see unlike independent online agencies,
below). These Internet hotel-booking which have to fax or e-mail reservation
agencies have multiplied in mind- requests to the hotels (a good portion of
boggling numbers of late, competing for which get misplaced in the shuffle).
the business of millions of consumers In the opaque website category, Price-
surfing for accommodations around the line and Hotwire are even better for hotels
world. This competitiveness can be a than for airfares; with both, you’re allowed
boon to consumers who have the to pick the neighborhood and quality level
patience and time to shop and compare of your hotel before offering up your
the online sites for good deals—but shop

Travel Blogs & Travelogues

To read a few blogs about Atlanta, try [Link] or [Link]
[Link]. Other blogs include:
• [Link]
• [Link]/wanderlust
• [Link]
• [Link]
• [Link]
• [Link]
32 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO AT L A N TA

[Link]: The Complete Travel Resource

For an excellent travel-planning resource, we highly recommend
[Link] ([Link]), voted Best Travel Site by PC Maga-
zine. We’re a little biased, of course, but we guarantee that you’ll find the
travel tips, reviews, monthly vacation giveaways, bookstore, and online-
booking capabilities thoroughly indispensable. Among the special features
are our popular Destinations section, where you’ll get expert travel tips,
hotel and dining recommendations, and advice on the sights to see for
more than 3,500 destinations around the globe; the [Link]
Newsletter, with the latest deals, travel trends, and money-saving secrets;
and our Travel Talk area featuring Message Boards, where Frommer’s read-
ers post queries and share advice, and where our authors sometimes show
up to answer questions. Once you finish your research, the Book a Trip area
can lead you to Frommer’s preferred online partners’ websites, where you
can book your vacation at affordable prices.

money. Priceline’s hotel offerings even Tip: It’s a good idea to get a confirma-
cover Europe and Asia, though it’s much tion number and make a printout of
better at getting five-star lodging for three- any online booking transaction.
star prices than at finding anything at the
bottom of the scale. On the downside, SURFING FOR RENTAL CARS
many hotels stick Priceline guests in their For booking rental cars online, the best
least desirable rooms. Be sure to go to the deals are usually found at rental-agency
BiddingForTravel website (see above) websites, although all the major online
before bidding on a hotel room on Price- travel agencies also offer rental-car reser-
line; it features a fairly up-to-date list of vations services. Priceline and Hotwire
hotels that Priceline uses in major cities. work well for rental cars, too; the only
For both Priceline and Hotwire, you pay “mystery” is which major rental company
upfront, and the fee is nonrefundable. you get, and for most travelers the differ-
Note: Some hotels do not provide loyalty ence between Hertz, Avis, and Budget is
program credits or points or other fre- negligible.
quent-stay amenities when you book a
room through opaque online services.

9 The 21st-Century Traveler

INTERNET ACCESS AWAY all—two places to start looking are at
FROM HOME [Link] and [Link]
W I T H O U T YO U R O W N [Link].
COMPUTER Aside from formal cybercafes, most
It’s hard nowadays to find a city that does- youth hostels nowadays have at least one
n’t have a few cybercafes. Although there’s computer that can access the Internet.
no definitive directory for cybercafes— And most public libraries across the
these are independent businesses, after world offer Internet access free or for a
 T H E 2 1 S T- C E N T U R Y T R A V E L E R 33

small charge. Avoid hotel business cen- coffee shops nationwide. Boingo (www.
ters unless you’re willing to pay exorbitant [Link]) and Wayport ([Link]
rates. [Link]) have set up networks in airports
Most major airports now have Internet and high-class hotel lobbies. IPass
kiosks scattered throughout their gates. providers (see below) also give you access
These kiosks, which you’ll also see in to a few hundred wireless hotel-lobby
shopping malls, hotel lobbies, and tourist setups. To locate other hotspots that pro-
information offices around the world, vide free wireless networks in cities around
give you basic Web access for a per- the world, go to [Link]/
minute fee that’s usually higher than [Link]/WirelessCommunities.
cybercafe prices. The kiosks’ clunkiness Most business-class hotels in the U.S.
and high prices mean they should be offer dataports for laptop dial-up
avoided whenever possible. modems, and many hotels now offer free
To retrieve your e-mail, ask your Inter- high-speed Internet access using an
net Service Provider (ISP) if it has a Web- Ethernet network cable. You can bring
based interface tied to your existing e-mail your own cables, but most hotels rent
account. If your ISP doesn’t have such an them for around $10. Call your hotel in
interface, you can use the free mail2web advance to see what your options are.
service ([Link]) to view and In addition, major ISPs have local
reply to your home e-mail. For more flexi- access numbers around the world, allow-
bility, you may want to open a free, Web- ing you to go online by placing a local
based e-mail account with Yahoo! Mail call. Check your ISP’s website or call its
([Link] or Google Gmail toll-free number and ask how you can use
([Link]). (Microsoft’s Hotmail your current account away from home,
is another popular option, but Hotmail has and how much it will cost.
severe spam problems.) Your home ISP The iPass network also has dial-up
may be able to forward your e-mail to the numbers around the world. You’ll have to
Web-based account automatically. sign up with an iPass provider, who will
If you need to access files on your then tell you how to set up your computer
office computer, look into a service called for your destination(s). For a list of iPass
GoToMyPC ([Link]). It providers, go to [Link] and click
provides a Web-based interface for you to on “Individuals Buy Now.” One solid
access and manipulate a distant PC from provider is i2roam ([Link];
anywhere—even a cybercafe—provided & 866/811-6209 or 920/235-0475).
your “target” PC is on and has an always- Wherever you go, bring a connection
on connection to the Internet (such as kit of the right power and phone adapters,
with Road Runner cable). The service a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet
offers top-quality security, but if you’re network cable—or find out whether your
worried about hackers, use your own lap- hotel supplies them to guests.
top rather than a cybercafe computer to For information on electrical currency
access the GoToMyPC system. conversions, see “Electricity” in the “Fast
Facts: Atlanta” section of chapter 4.
W I T H YO U R O W N C O M P U T E R
More and more hotels, cafes, and retailers CELLPHONE USE IN THE U.S.
are signing on as Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity) Just because your cellphone works at
“hotspots.” T-Mobile Hotspot (www. home doesn’t mean it’ll work everywhere
[Link]/hotspot) serves up wireless in the U.S. (thanks to our nation’s frag-
connections at more than 1,000 Starbucks mented cellphone system). It’s a good bet
34 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO AT L A N TA

Online Traveler’s Toolbox

Veteran travelers usually carry some essential items to make their trips easier.
The following is a selection of handy online tools to bookmark and use.
• Airplane Seating and Food. Find out which seats to reserve and which to
avoid (and more) on all major domestic airlines at [Link].
And check out the type of meal (with photos) you’ll likely be served on
airlines around the world at [Link].
• ATM Locators. Go to [Link] for locations of PLUS ATMs world-
wide. Point your browser to [Link] for locations of Cirrus
ATMs worldwide.
• Foreign Languages for Travelers ([Link]). Learn basic terms
in more than 70 languages and click on any underlined phrase to hear
what it sounds like.
• Mapquest ([Link]). This mapping site lets you choose a
specific address or destination; in seconds, it will return a map and
detailed directions.
• Subway Navigator ([Link]). Download subway
maps and get savvy advice on using subway systems in dozens of major
cities around the world.
• Time and Date ([Link]). See what time (and day) it is
anywhere in the world.
• Travel Warnings ([Link]
[Link]/travel, [Link], [Link]/consular/
advice). These American, British, Canadian, and Australian sites report on
places where health concerns or unrest might threaten travelers. Gener-
ally, U.S. warnings are the most paranoid; Australian warnings are the
most relaxed.
• Universal Currency Converter ([Link]/ucc). See what your dollar or
pound is worth in more than 100 other countries.
• Weather ([Link] and [Link]). Get weather
forecasts for all 50 states and for cities around the world.

that your phone will work in major cities, If you’re venturing deep into national
but take a look at your wireless company’s parks, you may want to consider renting a
coverage map on its website before head- satellite phone (“satphone”), which is
ing out; T-Mobile, Sprint, and Nextel are different from a cellphone in that it con-
particularly weak in rural areas. If you nects to satellites rather than ground-based
need to stay in touch at a destination towers. Unfortunately, you’ll pay at least
where you know your phone won’t work, $2 per minute to use the phone, and it
rent a phone that does from InTouch only works where you can see the horizon
USA (& 800/872-7626; [Link] (that is, usually not indoors). In North
[Link]) or a rental-car location, but America, you can rent Iridium satellite
be aware that you’ll pay $1 a minute or phones from RoadPost ([Link].
more for airtime. com; & 888/290-1606 or 905/272-5665).
 GETTING THERE 35

InTouch USA (see above) offers a wider U.S., check out [Link]/
range of satphones, but at higher rates. coverage.) And you may or may not be
If you’re not from the U.S., you’ll be able to send SMS (text messaging) home.
appalled at the poor reach of our GSM Assume nothing—call your wireless
(Global System for Mobiles) wireless provider and get the full scoop.
network, which is used by much of the In a worst-case scenario, you can
rest of the world. Your phone will proba- always rent a phone. InTouch USA deliv-
bly work in most major U.S. cities; it def- ers to hotels, and Rent-A-Cellular kiosks
initely won’t work in many rural areas. are located throughout the Hartsfield-
(To see where GSM phones work in the Jackson Atlanta International Airport.

10 Getting There
BY PLANE downtown area. Most large hotels offer
Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta Interna- their guests shuttle service, accessible
tional Airport (& 404/768-4100; www. through a courtesy phone located near
[Link]), 10 miles south of baggage claim at Hartsfield-Jackson
downtown, is the world’s largest and Atlanta International Airport. Other
busiest passenger airport and transfer options include taxi, MARTA rapid-rail
hub, accommodating 78 million passen- or bus service, and rental cars. See p. 57
gers a year. It provides 186 U.S. cities for details on getting from the airport to
with nonstop service. your destination.
Delta Air Lines (& 800/221-1212;
GETTING THROUGH
[Link]), which is based at
THE AIRPORT
Hartsfield-Jackson, is the major carrier to
With the federalization of airport secu-
Atlanta, connecting the city to the rest of
rity, security procedures at U.S. airports
the U.S. as well as 62 countries interna-
are more stable and consistent than ever.
tionally. It carries 80% of the air passen-
Generally, you’ll be fine if you arrive at
gers who come into Atlanta and serves
the airport 1 hour before a domestic
over 350 international cities.
flight and 2 hours before an international
Other major carriers include AirTran
flight; if you show up late, tell an airline
(& 800/247-8726; [Link]),
employee and she’ll probably whisk you
American Airlines (& 800/433-7300;
to the front of the line.
[Link]), America West (& 800/
Bring a current, government-issued
235-9292; [Link]),
photo ID such as a driver’s license or
British Airways (& 800/247-9297;
passport. Keep your ID at the ready to
[Link]), Continental
present at check-in, the security check-
(& 800/525-0280; [Link].
point, and sometimes even the gate.
com), Japan Airlines (& 800/525-3663;
(Children under 18 do not need govern-
[Link]), KLM (& 800/374-7747;
ment-issued photo IDs for domestic
[Link]), Lufthansa (& 800/645-
flights, but they do for international
3880; [Link]), North-
flights to most countries.)
west (& 800/225-2525; [Link]),
The Transportation Security Adminis-
United Airlines (& 800/241-6522; www.
tration (TSA) has phased out gate check-
[Link]), and USAirways (& 800/
in at all U.S. airports. But passengers with
428-4322; [Link]).
e-tickets, which have made paper tickets
Those flying into Atlanta have several
nearly obsolete, can beat the ticket-
options for getting from the airport to the
counter lines by using airport electronic
36 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO AT L A N TA

kiosks or even online check-in from their general rule is that sharp things are out,
home computers. Online check-in involves but nail clippers are okay. Bring food in
logging on to your airline’s website, access- your carry-on rather than checking it, as
ing your reservation, and printing out your explosive-detection machines used on
boarding pass—and the airline may even checked luggage have been known to
offer you bonus miles to do so! If you’re mistake food (especially chocolate, for
using a kiosk at the airport, bring the credit some reason) for bombs. Travelers in the
card you used to book the ticket or your U.S. are allowed one carry-on bag, plus a
frequent-flier card. Print out your boarding “personal item” such as a purse, briefcase,
pass from the kiosk and simply proceed to or laptop bag. Carry-on hoarders can
the security checkpoint with your pass and stuff all sorts of things into a laptop bag;
a photo ID. If you’re checking bags or look- as long as it has a laptop in it, it’s still con-
ing to snag an exit-row seat, you will be sidered a personal item. The TSA has
able to do so using most airline kiosks. issued a list of restricted items; check
Even the smaller airlines are employing the [Link]/311/[Link] for the most
kiosk system, but call your airline to make up-to-date details.
sure these alternatives are available. Curb- Airport screeners may decide that your
side check-in is also a good way to avoid checked luggage warrants a hand search.
lines, although a few airlines still don’t You can now purchase luggage locks that
allow it; call before you go. allow screeners to open and relock a
Security lines remain, particularly dur- checked bag if hand searching is neces-
ing periods of high security alerts. If you sary. Look for Travel Sentry certified locks
have trouble standing for long periods of at luggage or travel shops and Brookstone
time, tell an airline employee; the airline stores ([Link]). Luggage
will provide a wheelchair. Speed up secu- inspectors can open these TSA-approved
rity by not wearing metal objects such locks with a special code or key—rather
as big belt buckles. If you’ve got metallic than having to cut them off the suitcase,
body parts, a note from your doctor can as they normally do to conduct a hand
prevent a long chat with the security search. For more information on the
screeners. Keep in mind that only tick- locks, visit [Link].
eted passengers are allowed past security, IMMIGRATION & CUSTOMS
except for folks escorting passengers with CLEARANCE Foreign visitors arriving
disabilities or children. by air, no matter what the port of entry,
Federalization has stabilized what you should cultivate patience and resignation
can carry on and what you can’t. The

Tips International Travelers, Prepare to Be Fingerprinted

Many international visitors traveling on visas to the United States will be
photographed and fingerprinted at Customs, thanks to a new Department of
Homeland Security program called US-VISIT. Non-U.S. citizens arriving at air-
ports and on cruise ships must undergo an instant background check as part of
the government’s efforts to deter terrorism by verifying the identity of incom-
ing and outgoing visitors. Exempt from the extra scrutiny are visitors entering
by land or those who don’t require a visa for short-term visits (see p. 13 for a
list of Visa Waiver Program countries). For more information, go to the Home-
land Security website at [Link]/dhspublic.
 GETTING THERE 37

Tips Don’t Stow It—Ship It

Though pricey, it’s sometimes worthwhile to travel luggage-free. Specialists
in door-to-door luggage delivery include Virtual Bellhop ([Link]
[Link]), SkyCap International ([Link]), Luggage
Express ([Link]), and Sports Express ([Link]
[Link]).

before setting foot on U.S. soil. Clearing Times, Los Angeles Times, and Miami
immigration control can take as long as Herald. U.K. travelers should search
2 hours. This is especially true in the in the Independent, the Guardian, or
aftermath of the September 11, 2001, the Observer. Beware: Bucket-shop
terrorist attacks, when U.S. airports con- tickets are usually nonrefundable or
siderably beefed up security clearances. rigged with stiff cancellation penal-
People traveling by air from Canada, ties, often as high as 50% to 75% of
Bermuda, and certain Caribbean coun- the ticket price, and some put you on
tries can sometimes clear Customs and charter airlines, which may leave at
Immigration at the point of departure, inconvenient times and experience
which is much faster. delays. Several reliable consolidators
operate worldwide and have an
F LY I N G F O R L E S S : T I P S F O R
online presence: STA Travel (& 800/
G E T T I N G T H E B E S T A I R FA R E
781-4040; [Link]) is
• Passengers who can book their ticket now the world’s leader in student
either well in advance or at the last travel, thanks to its purchase of
minute, or who fly midweek or at Council Travel, but its fares are com-
less-trafficked hours, may pay a petitive for travelers of all ages.
fraction of the full fare. If your sched- ELTExpress ([Link]) (& 800/
ule is flexible, say so, and ask if you TRAV-800; [Link]) has
can secure a cheaper fare by changing excellent fares worldwide, particularly
your flight plans. to Europe. It also has “local” websites
• Search the Internet for cheap fares in 12 countries. FlyCheap (& 800/
(see “Planning Your Trip Online,” FLY-CHEAP; www.1800flycheap.
earlier in this chapter). com) offers especially good fares to
• Keep an eye on local newspapers for sunny destinations. AirTicketsDirect
promotional specials or fare wars, (& 800/778-3447; [Link]
when airlines lower prices on their [Link]) is based in Montreal and
most popular routes. You rarely see leverages the currently weak Cana-
fare wars offered for peak travel dian dollar for low fares; it also books
times, but if you can travel in the off- trips to places that U.S. travel agents
months, you may snag a bargain. won’t touch, such as Cuba.
• Consolidators, also known as bucket • Join frequent-flier clubs. Frequent-
shops, are great sources for interna- flier membership doesn’t cost a cent,
tional tickets, although they usually but it does entitle you to better seats,
can’t beat Internet fares within North faster response to phone inquiries, and
America. Start by looking in Sunday prompter service if your luggage is
newspaper travel sections; U.S. trav- stolen or your flight is canceled or
elers should focus on the New York
38 C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO AT L A N TA

delayed. And you don’t have to fly to airlines, the research firm Skytrax has
earn points; frequent-flier credit posted a list of average seat pitches at
cards can earn you thousands of miles [Link].
for doing your everyday shopping. • Bulkhead seats and those in emer-
With more than 70 mileage awards gency-exit rows typically have the
programs on the market, consumers most legroom. Emergency-exit seats
have never had more options. Investi- are usually left unassigned until the
gate the program details of your day of a flight (to ensure that some-
favorite airlines before you sink points one able-bodied fills the seats); it’s
into any particular one. Consider worth getting to the ticket counter
which airlines have hubs in the airport early to snag one of these spots for a
nearest you, and, of those carriers, long flight. Many passengers find
which have the most advantageous that bulkhead seating (the row facing
alliances, given your most common the wall at the front of the cabin)
routes. To play the frequent-flier game offers more legroom, but keep in
to your best advantage, consult Randy mind that bulkheads are where air-
Petersen’s InsideFlyer ([Link] lines often put baby bassinets, so you
[Link]). Petersen and friends review may be sitting next to an infant.
all the programs in detail and post • To have two seats for yourself in a
regular updates on changes in policies three-seat row, try for an aisle seat in
and trends. a center section toward the back of
coach. If you’re traveling with a com-
LONG-HAUL FLIGHTS: HOW
panion, book an aisle and a window
T O S TAY C O M F O R TA B L E
seat. Middle seats are usually booked
• Your choice of airline and airplane last, so chances are good you’ll end up
will definitely affect your legroom. with three seats to yourselves. And in
Find details about U.S. airlines at the event that a third passenger is
[Link]. For international assigned the middle seat, he or she

Tips Coping with Jet Lag

Jet lag is a pitfall of traveling across time zones. If you’re flying north–south and
you feel sluggish when you touch down, your symptoms are likely the result of
dehydration and the general stress of air travel. When you travel east–west or
vice versa, however, your body becomes thoroughly confused about what time
it is, and everything from your digestive system to your brain is knocked for a
loop. Traveling east, say from San Francisco to Boston, is more difficult on your
internal clock than traveling west, say from Atlanta to Hawaii, because most
peoples’ bodies are more inclined to stay up late than fall asleep early.
Here are some tips for combating jet lag:
• Reset your watch to your destination time before you board the plane.
• Drink lots of water before, during, and after your flight. Avoid alcohol.
• Exercise and sleep well for a few days before your trip.
• Fly eastward on morning flights if you have trouble sleeping on planes.
• Daylight is the key to resetting your body clock. At the website for Out-
side In ([Link]), you can get a customized plan of when to
seek and avoid light.
 GETTING THERE 39

Flying with Film & Video

Never pack film—exposed or unexposed—in checked bags, as the new,
more powerful scanners in U.S. airports can fog it. The film you carry with
you can be damaged by scanners as well. X-ray damage is cumulative; the
faster the film, and the more times you put it through a scanner, the more
likely the damage. Film under 800 ASA is usually safe for up to five scans. If
you’re taking your film through additional scans, U.S. regulations permit
you to demand hand inspections. In international airports, you’re at the
mercy of airport officials. On international flights, store your film in trans-
parent baggies, so you can remove it easily before you go through scanners.
Keep in mind that airports are not the only places where your camera may
be scanned: Highly trafficked attractions are X-raying visitors’ bags with
increasing frequency.
Most photo supply stores sell protective pouches designed to block dam-
aging X-rays. The pouches fit both film and loaded cameras. They should
protect your film in checked baggage, but they may also raise alarms and
result in a hand inspection.
You’ll have little to worry about if you’re traveling with a digital camera.
Unlike film, which is sensitive to light, the digital camera and storage cards
are not affected by airport X-rays, according to Nikon.
Carry-on scanners will not damage videotape in video cameras, but the
magnetic fields emitted by the walk-through security gateways and hand-
held inspection wands will. Always place your loaded camcorder on the
screening conveyor belt or have it hand-inspected. Be sure your batteries
are charged, as you may be required to turn the device on to ensure that
it’s what it appears to be.

will probably be more than happy to your head and avoid being bumped
trade for a window or an aisle. in the aisle.
• Ask about entertainment options. • Get up, walk around, and stretch
Many airlines offer seatback video every 60 to 90 minutes to keep your
systems where you get to choose your blood flowing. This helps avoid deep
movies or play video games—but vein thrombosis, or “economy-class
only on some of their planes. (Boeing syndrome.” See p. 25 for more infor-
777s are your best bet.) mation.
• To sleep, avoid the last row of any • Drink water before, during, and after
section or the row in front of an your flight to combat the lack of
emergency exit, as these seats are the humidity in airplane cabins. Avoid
least likely to recline. Avoid seats near alcohol, which will dehydrate you.
highly trafficked toilet areas. Avoid • If you’re flying with kids, don’t forget
seats in the back of many jets—these to carry on toys, books, pacifiers, and
can be narrower than those in the rest chewing gum to help them relieve
of coach. You may also want to ear-pressure buildup during ascent
reserve a window seat so you can rest and descent.
Another random document with
no related content on Scribd:
 Yard and sail with studding-sail
34. 71. Tack.
booms.
35. Stay and sail. 72. Bowlines and bridles.
36. Preventer stay. 73. Top.
37. Backstays. 74. Cap.

Yard and course with studding-sail

75. 112. Horse.
booms.
76. Futtock-shrouds. 113. Top.
77. Maintop mast. 114. Cap.
78. Shrouds and lanyards. 115. Mizzen topmast.
Yard and sail with studding-sail
79. 116. Shrouds.
booms.
80. Back stay. 117. Stay.
81. Preventer stay. 118. Backstay.
82. Stay and sail. 119. Yard and sail.
83. Halyards. 120. Lifts.
84. Lifts. 121. Braces.
85. Braces. 122. Bowlines and bridles.
86. Horse. 123. Crosstrees.
87. Sheets. 124. Cap.
88. Bowlines and bridles. 125. Mizzen topgallant mast.
89. Crosstrees. 126. Shrouds.
90. Cap. 127. Stay.
91. Main topgallant mast. 128. Backstay.
92. Shrouds. 129. Yard and sail.
93. Yard and sail. 130. Bowlines and bridles.
94. Backstay. 131. Lifts.
95. Stay, halyard, and sail. 132. Braces.
96. Lifts. 133. Royal yard and sail.
97. Braces. 134. Royal lifts.
98. Bowline and bridle. 135. Royal braces.
99. Royal stay. 136. Royal stay.
100. Back stay. 137. Royal backstays.
101. Royal yard and sail. 138. Union Jack.
102. Royal braces. 139. Driver boom.
103. Royal lifts. 140. Boom topping-lift.
104. Royal standard. 141. Boom guy-falls.
105. Mizzen mast. 142. Gaff and driver.
106. Shrouds and ratlines. 143. Derrick-fall.
107. Cross-jack yard. 144. Peak-brails.
108. Stay. 145. Peak-halyards.
109. Preventer-stay. 146. Ensign staff.
110. Cross-jack lifts. 147. Ensign.
111. ” ” braces. 148. Bower cable.

Fig. 80. A First-rater of 1815, showing Details of Spars and Rigging.

 Fig. 81. Full-rigged Ship.
1. Flying jib. 13. Upper main topsail.
2. Outer jib. 14. Lower main topgallant sail.
3. Inner jib. 15. Upper main topgallant sail.
4. Fore topmast staysail. 16. Main royal.
5. Fore-course or foresail. 17. Cross-jack (pr. cro’jack).
6. Lower fore topsail. 18. Lower mizzen topsail.
7. Upper fore topsail. 19. Upper mizzen topsail.
8. Lower fore topgallant sail. 20. Lower mizzen topgallant sail.
9. Upper fore topgallant sail. 21. Upper mizzen topgallant sail.
10. Fore royal. 22. Mizzen royal.
11. Main course or mainsail. 23. Driver or spanker.
12. Lower main topsail.
 CHAPTER IX.
THE FORE-AND-AF T RIG AND ITS DEVELOPMENTS;

C O A S T E R S , F I S H I N G B O AT S , YA C H T S , E T C . [ 1 1 6 ]

o far we have, with the exception of the primitive

lateen, dealt exclusively with the square-rigged
sailing ship. We have seen that this was the
earliest and has continued to be the most universal
sail of the ship. The Egyptian and other early races
possessed it, and likewise the Greeks, Romans and
Vikings. In the most modern full-rigged ship it is
to-day seen as conspicuous as ever. For ocean,
deep-sea sailing it has no peer, but in course of time with the growth
of the coasting and fishing shipping, of pilotage and yachting, a rig
that was suitable for deep-sea sailing was found to be not altogether
ideal for the new demands. And so, gradually, side by side with the
squaresail, has grown up another development which we may divide
into two sections: first, the fore-and-aft rig, and secondly, the
compromises that have been made between the fore-and-aft and
the squaresail.
It would be quite impossible here to trace in such complete detail
the history and development of the fore-and-afters as we have done
of the larger sailing ships; that, indeed, demands a separate volume
to itself. But we can show here, what, as far as I am able to
ascertain, has never been attempted by any previous writer, in
outline, at least, the story of the rise of the fore-and-after, and link it
up to that larger ship that sets her sails at an angle athwart the keel
instead of parallel with it. We shall thus complete our study in
connecting the present with the past, and in showing how the latest
Shamrock is related to the early Egyptian ship, and how on the one
hand she has inherited certain family characteristics of her fore-
parent, yet on the other hand, through coming under new influences
and acquiring new habits, she has altered some of the features by
which her ancestors were especially distinguished.
In an earlier chapter we mentioned that it was in Holland during
the sixteenth century that the fore-and-aft rig originated. At first it
was only used for quite small sailing boats, but it was not long
before craft of fifty tons and more adopted it. We must remember
that about this time the Dutch were more advanced in maritime
matters than any other nation. With them shipbuilding and naval
architecture were much nearer to being an art and a science than
elsewhere. The vast number of miles open to inland navigation, the
shallowness of their channels and coasts naturally encouraged and
stimulated them to study the problem of smaller ships. What the
Tigris and Euphrates and Nile had been to the ancients the inland
waterways were to the Dutch. The squaresail rig was out of the
question. It was far too clumsy for tacking in and out of the small
harbours of the Zuyder Zee and German Ocean. It would not sail
close enough to the wind to allow the little craft just to lay her
course in a straight narrow channel, while at the same time the
Mediterranean lateen rig with its enormous yard was not suitable for
the boisterous, squally North Sea. So the Dutchman, appreciating
the virtues which the lateen shape possessed, just preserved this
same triangular form, but cut it in two for convenience and
handiness, though at the sacrifice of speed. Let the reader take his
pencil and draw a vertical line to represent a mast. Across this let
him draw a triangle with the apex well over to one side of the mast
and the rest of the triangle and base to the other. This is roughly the
shape of the Mediterranean and Eastern lateen as one can see by
comparing Figs. 102 and 103. Now rub out from the drawing that
part which is forward of the mast, and there remains a rectangular
figure which is the germ of the first mainsail the cutter, or, more
properly, the sloop-rigged boat had. In actual practice the sail was
made much squarer at the top. A sprit was then stretched diagonally
across the sail, with the peak on nearly the same level as where the
throat now is. This sprit was supported just as in the Thames barge
to-day, by a yard-tackle coming down from the throat to the sprit. It
was thus, as we see from the engravings of the contemporary record
of the first Dutch voyage to the North Pole in 1599, that the little
craft that brought the ill-fated members home was rigged. Similarly
the staysail, working on the forestay, as to-day, was in shape and
size roughly equivalent to that part which in the triangular sketch
just now would project forward of the mast. Vangs came down from
the peak, and a bonnet being in use on the contemporary full-rigged
ships, was naturally enough used for the smaller ships, too. Thus the
sprit is really the old lateen yard modified, and the fore-and-aft rig is
in its earliest days but the dhow rig cut in two. I have made a close
study of the earliest Dutch engravings and paintings, and have little
doubt in my mind as to the stages of development here indicated.
The next change came when the last relic of the lateen yard
disappeared, for in place of the sprit a tiny gaff was added at the top
and a boom at the bottom of the sail. The sail was, of course, loose-
footed and very baggy, and was kept to the mast by lacing, wooden
hoops being still unknown. Then a long clumsy bowsprit was given,
so that forward of the staysail a jib might be introduced. Thus it is
not the foresail that was added to the jib, but vice versâ. Originally
the foresail was the fore sail in fact as well as in name, until the jib
was introduced. Then topsails were added. These were copied from
those on the contemporary full-rigged ships, were square in shape,
were set athwart the ship and not parallel like the modern topsails.
Before long, we find that not content with one square topsail, some
of the bigger craft set a square topgallant sail also. The topsail was
goared out considerably and the foot was cut in a deep curve
upwards, but a “barren” yard like that of the old cro’jack was
retained. In light winds, the triangular spinnaker not being yet
invented, the Dutchman set a large squaresail for running. This was
similar to the lower course of the full-rigged ship and was set below
the topsail when the ship was large enough to carry the former. This
lower course extended
from the hounds, was
hoisted outside the
forestay and, if she was a
large sized ship and
possessed a bowsprit, the
sail extended right down
to the furthest end of the
latter. If she had no
bowsprit then it came
down to the stem. This
latter instance will be seen
in Fig. 82, which has been
sketched from the picture
by Van der Cappelle in the
National Gallery (No. 964;
Van der Cappelle painted
from 1650 to 1680). We
find in the paintings and
engravings of this time Fig. 82. From “River Scene with Sailing Boats,” by
Jan Van der Cappelle.
that the Dutch were
immensely fond of
booming out these sails with a light spar. One is seen in this
illustration, but sometimes, besides such a one as this, they would
set another boom one-third of the way up the sail, so that it might
catch every breath of wind. In the present illustration the staysail is
seen set, but one often finds it rolled round and round the forestay.
So, too, with the mainsail, if it should happen to be a spritsail, then
the foot was boomed out, in running, with a light spar also. It was
thus, I believe, that the introduction of a boom and gaff mainsail
came—the boom first and the necessary spar at the top to
correspond thereto. Then, not infrequently, one finds in the
Dutchmen of about 1700 that they dispense with the boom but
retain the gaff. The brails, in the case of the spritsails, were
plentifully used, sometimes with the addition also of reef-points. As
to the hulls, they were tubby, bluff-bowed, but excellent sea-boats, if
slow. Being of light draught, they had leeboards. Until about 1840-
1850, we in this country continued to model our fishing and small
sailing craft generally upon the lines of these Dutchmen (notice the
cutter shown in Turner’s painting reproduced in Fig. 71). But whilst
we have gone ahead from improvement to approximate perfection,
from ignorance to knowledge, the ships of the Low Countries remain
but little altered since the days of Tromp, when the Dutch were at
the height of their maritime progress. The Dutch schuyt, such as
may be seen any day lying at her buoy off Billingsgate, is shown in
Fig. 83. The Viking influence is written largely over the ships of
Holland, but breadth has taken the place of the length beloved of
the Northerner.

Fig. 83. A Modern Dutch Schuyt.

 Fig. 84. “A Fresh Gale at Sea.”
After the painting by W. Van der Velde, No. 150 in the National Gallery.

If we compare the last-mentioned sketch of a modern Dutchman

with that in Fig. 84, which has been copied from the exquisite little
Van der Velde in the National Gallery, we shall see how little the hulls
of their ships have altered. Van der Velde (the younger) lived from
1633 to 1707, so that he saw the Dutch ships at their very best. As
Macaulay says, the Van der Veldes, father and son, produced, when
they came over to Greenwich as painters to Charles II., some of the
finest sea-pieces in the world. The title given to the present picture
is A Fresh Gale at Sea (No. 150). It is extremely interesting to us for
its indication of the rig. The ship in the foreground on the port tack
will collide with the other if both stand on. But to avoid this she has
resolved to bear up. The reader will notice the helm has been put
hard over as the other ship is seen staggering out of the squall and
mist. Easing off her sheet she has also lowered her peak by slacking
off the tackle at the foot of the sprit. In another of Van der Velde’s
paintings in the same gallery (No. 149, A Calm at Sea) the same
peculiar method of lowering sail is seen. We see a ship at anchor in
a calm. She has slacked off the tack in the same way, so that the
spar comes right across the mast. English ships of the eighteenth
and nineteenth centuries possessing this characteristic will be found
in the paintings of Turner and other contemporary artists.

Fig. 85. “River Scene.”

After the painting by W. Van der Velde. No. 978 in the National Gallery.

For many years, though the Dutch had changed their rig for small
craft, yet they still felt the influence of the bigger squaresail ships,
notably in the design of the sterns. Thus the familiar decoration and
the sheer to a high poop will be noticed in the vessel that occupies
the centre of Fig. 85, which is rigged with a spritsail. This has been
copied from another Van der Velde in the same gallery (No. 978). I
have selected this picture expressly for the purpose of indicating, as
Van der Velde has done, as many of the prevailing types of Dutch
seventeenth-century craft as possible in a small space. The short
gaff, the spritsail furled by means of its brails, the large squaresail
for spinnaker work seen on the ship to the left of the picture, the
high stempost (relic of the Vikings) on the ship to the right—these
will all be found deserving of notice. It was no doubt a ship very
similar to the high-pooped yacht in the centre of this picture that
was sent to Charles II. in 1660 by the Dutch. The vessel was called
the Mary, and was the first yacht ever owned in this country.
In England the revenue and other sailing cutters of the
seventeenth and eighteenth centuries were rigged with the square
topgallant sail and “goared” topsail below, with a hollow foot. Old
prints of the beginning of the eighteenth century (1717) show British
cutters sailing with the jack flying from the staff at the end of the
bowsprit just clear of the jib. The bowsprit is steeved remarkably
high and is very long. In a like manner were rigged also the yachts
of this period. So the cutters continued until the ’forties and ’fifties,
when the bluff bows and rough rig gave way to a larger, cleaner
lined, and more scientific production than the slavish copying of a
seventeenth century Dutch type could produce. Now the old-
fashioned square topsail has utterly disappeared in fore-and-afters,
and one of more or less triangular shape has taken its place. But
since it is in the building and rigging of yachts that the most
complete changes have occurred during the nineteenth and
twentieth centuries we shall postpone the further progress of the
cutter until later in the chapter.
 Fig. 86. The Bawley.

No modification of the cutter rig in England is so thoroughly Dutch

as the bawley (Fig. 86). Not even the least observant of passengers
on the Margate steamer can have failed to notice these little ships
off the Nore or cruising somewhere up and down the Thames
estuary. Off Southend and Whitstable they are as common as flies in
summer, and bigger children of the same family are to be seen
brought up in the Stour abreast of Harwich. The bawley inherits the
Dutch ancient mainsail, with brails that can speedily shorten canvas,
and without a boom to be kicking about from side to side as the ship
rolls in the trough of the nasty seas that can get up off the entrance
to our great waterway. With their transom stern and easily brailed
and triced mainsail these bawleys are excellent bad-weather boats.
Some of the finest cutters in the country are the Brixham Mumble
Bees, trawlers of about 27 tons. They have their mast stepped well
aft, so that they are able to set an enormous foresail. Here
especially the long bowsprit has survived, and without a bobstay to
support it. The Plymouth hooker, with her mast stepped well
amidships, with her square stern, no boom to her mainsail, and
pole-mast, cannot be said altogether to have escaped Dutch
influence, although it is said that the Devonshire men in Elizabeth’s
time possessed cutters of their own.
The illustration in Plan 1 shows the sail and rigging plan of the
Gjöa. The vessel is shown here because in combining much that is
old and new she is one of the most interesting cutters afloat. Her
tonnage is 70, length over all 69 feet, beam 20·66 feet, depth 8·75
feet, draught 7·5 feet. In June 1903 she set out from Christiania,
and three and a half years later she had navigated the North-West
Passage and reached San Francisco. Obviously built for the hard
service of the Arctic regions, her hull is bluff and strong. The
bowsprit is more that of an old-fashioned full-rigged ship than of a
modern cutter, and the squaresail, whose yard and braces will be
noticed, has come back from the times of the old Dutchmen, being,
as already mentioned, of inestimable value for running across vast
expanses of ocean. But in spite of her old-fashioned bow and stern
and rigging she is fitted with a heavy-oil motor, as will be seen from
Plan 2. This was found very useful, giving the ship a speed of 4
knots per hour; and it was the first time a motor-propelled ship had
been so far north. Plan 3 gives an adequate idea of Gjöa’s deck
arrangement.
Pass we now to trace the progress of the schooner. It is a common
error to suppose that this rig was derived direct from the cutter by
merely adding another mast and sail of the same shape as the
mainsail. Such a statement is pure guess-work, and entirely contrary
to fact. The schooner originated quite independently of the cutter
and much later, though the shape of her mainsail and foresail was
obtained from the former. About the beginning of the seventeenth
century a craft far from uncommon among the Dutch was the sloop.
Now in order to clear the ground, let us carefully separate the three
distinct kinds of craft to which this name belonged at that time. The
word sloop, or more properly sloepe, was applied less to the rig than
to the size of the craft, denoting a somewhat small tonnage. Thus it
was primarily applied to a ship’s big boat, such as was used to run
out the kedge anchor and for fetching provisions and water from the
shore. The same name was also given to the Dutch vessels of about
55 feet long and 12½ feet beam which sailed to the Cape Verde
Islands. More familiar to us was the custom of applying it to the
early cutter-like craft which carried a triangular foresail yet no jib.
But not one of these is the sloop we are looking for. This is found in
that kind of sailing craft which was about 42 feet overall and with 9
feet beam. She was rigged with two pole masts, the mainmast being
24 feet long. On each she had just such a sail as we see in Fig. 83 of
a modern schuyt, with loose foot and with both gaff and boom, but
the most important fact is that she had neither bowsprit nor
headsails of any kind, while her foremast was stepped right as far
forward as it could get. There are plenty of contemporary prints and
paintings in existence to show such a vessel, which usually had an
enormous sheer coming up from bow to stern. This, then, was not a
schooner but a sloop, and you may search high and low in all the
seventeenth century dictionaries, marine and otherwise, but you will
not find such a word as “schooner” in existence. We come, then, to
the early part of the eighteenth century, and we cross to North
America. When in 1664 the British, during the war with Holland,
seized the Dutch colony of the New Netherlands and changed the
name of New Amsterdam to New York in honour of Charles II.’s
brother, most of the Dutch settlers who had come out from Europe
remained. So, like those early people who trekked westwards across
the Syrian desert to Egypt, the Dutch had also brought with them
their ideas and practical knowledge of shipbuilding, included in which
was that of making sloops. It was at Gloucester, Massachusetts, still
to-day famous for the finest schooners and the very finest schooner-
sailors that ever tasted brine on their lips, that in 1713 the first
genuine schooner with a triangular headsail was built. To add the
latter to the two-masted sloop was but the easiest transition. Not till
the first vessel of this now enormous class was actually making its
first contact with water was the name schooner bestowed on it. As
she was leaving the stocks some one remarked “Oh, how she
scoons.” “Very well, then,” answered her proud builder, “a scooner
let her be.” And so she has remained ever since.
 For the next century and a half Gloucester went ahead building
these beautiful creatures, more stately than a cutter, less ponderous
than a full-rigged ship, until 1852, when the famous America still
perpetuated in the America Cup came across to the English waters
and so wiped the slate that every rich owner of yachts desired to
turn them into the same rig as this Yankee. We will say no more
about her at present as we shall presently make her acquaintance
anew when we come to deal entirely with yachts.

Fig. 87. The Schooner “Pinkie” (1800-50).

 Fig. 88. The “Fredonia.” Built in 1891.

But to return to the more commercial schooner; for whatever else

Gloucester, Massachusetts, may yet become famous, it will always be
associated with that wonderful fleet of fishing schooners which those
who have read Kipling’s “Captains Courageous,” and Mr. J. B.
Connolly’s “The Seiners,” already know. The origin of this wonderful
Gloucester breed may be traced to the Dutch fly-boat, or flibot, of
the eighteenth century. The next step in the evolution of the
Gloucester schooner is seen in Fig. 87, the Pinkie, engaged in the
fishery industry between 1800 and 1850. Although the sail plan
belongs to a smaller boat than the one just indicated, yet we see the
first step in the introduction of the single headsail to the old two-
masted “sloepe,” with the foremast even now stepped very far
forward. Impelled by the demands for a ship that would be able to
carry its fish to market with the utmost despatch, but which would
be able to endure being caught in the terrible seas off the
Newfoundland Banks; and subsequently encouraged to progress
through the popularity which such craft were obtaining among the
American pilots who used to come out enormous distances into the
Atlantic in those days to meet the incoming liners, the builders and
designers went on improving the design and rig, giving them fine
hollow lines, adding jibs and standing bowsprits, greater draught
and speed, larger spars with a vast square measurement of canvas.
The Fredonia, seen in Fig. 88, was one of the famous schooners of
the ’nineties and is so still. She was designed by W. Burgess in 1891,
and with her cut-away fore-foot and finer lines is a great
improvement on the old Dutch models. This vessel measures 114
feet 2 inches long, with 25 feet beam, drawing 12 feet 8 inches. Her
displacement is 188 tons, and her sail area is the enormous extent
of 7542 square feet. Fig. 89 represents one of the earliest of the
twentieth-century productions, and is designed by the famous
Crowinshield. Her fore-foot is cut away more like that of a Solent
racing schooner-yacht. Indeed, many of these Gloucester schooners
are far more entitled to be called yachts than any other name. I
have watched them turning up the Hudson in the winter, threading
their way through the ice-blocks and the crowd of fussy tugs and
mammoth liners in New York harbour with the handiness of a small
rater. The most modern example of this ideal ship is that seen in Fig.
90. She is only a 53-tonner with an overall length of under 70 feet,
and is fitted with a 25-horse-power motor. But in many cases the
internal combustion engine has been adopted by the American
sailing ships only to be rejected as not worth while.
Fig. 89. Gloucester Schooner, a.d. 1901.
 Fig. 90. Gloucester Schooner, a.d. 1906.

The coasting trade of the United States of America is not done in

the ketches and topsail schooners and barquentines that we use. It
is done exclusively, where sailing ships are used, in fore-and-aft
schooners which have arisen directly or indirectly from Gloucester.
Two masts have become three, three have become five, and even as
many as seven have been used. Perhaps the most notable of these
was the seven-masted Thomas W. Lawson, which foundered off the
Scillies on December 14, 1907. Remarkable for the ease with which
it can be handled, a three-masted schooner of about 400 tons
requires only a dozen hands aboard. In tacking, a couple of hands
work the head-sheets, and these with a man at the wheel can work
her in and out of narrow channels, for which the rig is more suited
than any modification of the squaresail. For labour-saving “gadgets”
the American schooner has reached the furthest limit. Thus the
anchor and sails are raised by steam force; there is steam steering
gear as well as steam capstan, and the biggest ships of all have
been fitted even with electric light. The illustration in Fig. 91 of a
four-master will give one some idea of the extent to which the
American schooner has developed.

Fig. 91. An American Four-masted Schooner.

Coming back to European waters, besides the pure fore-and-aft

schooner we have also the topsail schooner and the two-topsail
schooner. No better instance of the former could be found than in
the illustration in Fig. 116 of Lord Brassey’s famous auxiliary yacht
the Sunbeam, of which we shall give further details on a later page,
among the yachts. But we may now call attention to the square fore-
topsail and smaller t’gallant sail on this ship. Sometimes, too, one
finds a royal added also to the foremast. The braces, clew-garnet,
lifts, and other rigging are so well shown in this photograph as to
require no further comment. A two-topsail schooner carries a square
topsail and t’gallant sail at the main as well as the fore. The topsail
schooner is perhaps the best known of our coasting types. Most of
our trading schooners are “butter-rigged,” that is to say, that
whereas the topsail schooner has a standing t’gallant yard set up
with lifts, the butter-rigged sets her t’gallants’l flying by hoisting the
yard every time.

Fig. 92. A Barquentine off the South Foreland.

 Fig. 93. Barquentine with Stuns’ls.

The illustrations in Figs. 92 and 93 represent barquentines,

although one of them is seen with the now obsolete stun’s’ls. A
barquentine is square-rigged on the foremasts, but fore-and-aft
rigged on the main and mizzen. The difference between the
barquentine and the three-masted schooner is that the former has a
regular brigantine’s foremast. The three-masted schooner does not
carry a fore-course, but in place of it a large squaresail, only used
when running free in moderate weather, only differing from the fore-
course in that it is not bent to the yard.
 Fig. 94. The “Fantôme,” 18-ton Brig. Launched 1838.

The illustration shown in Fig. 94 represents the 18-ton brig

Fantôme. She was designed by Sir W. Symonds and launched about
1838. Her armament consisted of eighteen 32-pounders, and her
complement was 148 officers and men. Her tonnage was 726, her
breadth 37·7 feet, length 120 feet, and depth of hold 18 feet. This is
from a photograph of the model in the South Kensington Museum.
Fig. 95 is a photograph of the training brig Martin, actually afloat.
The brig was the last sailing ship to disappear from the British Navy,
and her final abolition is so recent that her picturesqueness still
lingers in the imagination of Solent yachtsmen and others. The
Martin was launched in 1836. As will be seen from the photograph,
which obtains even greater interest when compared with the model
just mentioned, she carried single topsails, t’gallants and royals.
Stun’sails will be noticed on the foresail, fore-topsail, fore-topgallant
sail as well as on her main topgallant sail. As we shall never see
these sailing brigs again, the photograph is of more than ordinary
interest.

Fig. 95. H.M.S. “Martin,” Training Brig. Launched 1836.

In olden days the brig was a favourite rig for small coasters. In the
marine paintings of Turner and the early part of the nineteenth
century one sees them frequently. In the eighteenth century, and
even as late as the nineteenth, the brig was used for the coal-
carrying trade. The nineteenth-century brigs often carried, besides
the sails seen in the two illustrations, an enormous fore-topgallant
staysail. But both the handiness of schooners and ketches began to
oust her, and the coming of the steam collier finally did for her in the
mercantile marine as, at a later date, she was abolished from the
Royal Navy.
 Fig. 96. A Hermaphrodite Brig, commonly but erroneously called a Brigantine.

I have intentionally introduced the brig at this point,

notwithstanding that she is essentially a square-rigged ship, in order
that we may compare her the more easily with that compromise
between the square rig and fore-and-aft vessel, the brigantine.
Strictly speaking, the brigantine is square-rigged at her foremast,
but differs from the Hermaphrodite brig in carrying small squaresails
aloft at the main. She differs also from the full-rigged brig in having
no top at the mainmast and in carrying a fore-and-aft mainsail and
sometimes a main-staysail instead of a square mainsail and try-sail.
(The fore-and-aft sail at a brig’s mainmast is called a try-sail.) The
illustration in Fig. 96 represents a Hermaphrodite brig, commonly
and erroneously called a brigantine. The Hermaphrodite brig, or
brig-schooner, is square-rigged at her foremast like a brig, but
without a top forward, and carrying only a fore-and-aft mainsail and
gaff topsail on the mainmast. And here it may not be out of place to
mention another subtlety: while a barque has three masts, being
square-rigged at her fore and main like a ship, and differing from a
ship-rigged vessel in having no top at her mizzen, but carrying a
fore-and-aft spanker and gaff topsail, yet what is known among
sailormen as the “Jackass” barque resembles a barque proper, but
has no crosstrees, does not spread lower courses and has no tops.
(Tops are the platforms placed over the heads of the lower masts,
while the crosstrees are at the topmast heads, being used for giving
a wider spread to the standing rigging).
The illustration seen in
Fig. 97 shows one of the
smallest schooner-rigged
craft that ever sailed the
ocean. This is the famous
Tillikum, adapted from a
“dug-out,” in which
Captain J. C. Voss,
F.R.G.S., sailed round the
world to England. The
sketch which we give here
of this odd ship was made
in November 1906, while
she lay off the Houses of
Parliament. She has since
changed ownership and
been fitted with a motor,
and in her green paint is a
familiar sight to those who
bring up in the Orwell off
Fig. 97. The “Tillikum,” Schooner-rigged “Dug-out,”
Pin Mill.
which sailed round the World.
The origin of the ketch
is also Dutch, although the
word is in old French quaiche and in Spanish queche. We frequently
find the influence of the bomb-ketch in old pictures and engravings,
in which the mizzen is close up against the mainmast, and the latter
is stepped well abaft of amidships, so as to allow the shot fired to
clear the rigging, leaving a large fore-triangle. (See Fig. 62, the
galiote à bombe.) This influence is felt even as late as the second
half of the eighteenth century. The ketch is descended from the
Dutch galliot, which, besides having a gaff mizzen, had a sprit
mainsail like the barge, and with no boom, but three brails and one
row of reef-points. The usual vangs led down aft from the peak, and
she also had lee-runners. But, besides her triangular headsails,
consisting of a fore(stay)sail and a couple of jibs, she carried also a
small t’gallant sail, with big topsail below, and often a large lower
course below that—all these last three being square, as on a full-
rigged ship, and to this day many Baltic ketches continue to be
rigged in like manner. At the close of Charles II.’s reign we find that
among the 173 ships in the British Royal Navy there were three
ketches, but before this date, in his “Seamen’s Dictionary” of 1644,
Sir Henry Manwayring defines them simply as “a small boate such as
uses to come to Belinsgate with mackrell, oisters, &c.” From the time
of Charles I. the Dutch have had the privilege of mooring three of
their fish-carrying craft off Billingsgate in recognition of “their
straightforward dealings with us,” and any day the reader likes to go
down in the vicinity of London Bridge he will see two or three Dutch
schuyts swinging to their moorings. In an eighteenth century work
on naval architecture it is curious to see the galliot also called a
galleasse. In this case the mainsail has discarded the sprit and taken
on a small gaff with boom and loose foot. Two rows of reef-points
are also added, and the squaresails are still there. An old English
engraving also shows a close similarity to the former bomb-ketch.
But in the course of time all the squaresails were abolished, the
mainmast brought further forward, and the mizzen sail enlarged so
as to be not much smaller than the mainsail. Nowadays nowhere is
the modern ketch rig so prominent as on the east coast of England,
from as far north as Whitby to as far south as Ramsgate, and even
Brixham. The billy-boy, with her long raking bowsprit, setting almost
as many jibs as a full-rigged ship, and whose general design bears
the most remarkable likeness to the ship in the seal of Dam in Fig.
40, is the Yorkshire adaptation of the old Dutch galliot, and, with her
leeboards and ketch rig, is well known in the North Sea. In the
’seventies our East Coast fishermen were almost all rigged with the
lug-sail, but now some of the finest ketches will be found in the
fishing fleets of Yarmouth, Lowestoft, and Ramsgate. For powerful,
seaworthy craft, able to heave-to comfortably, and with the capacity
of riding out gales that few modern yachts with their cut-away bows
could survive, there is nothing on the sea, size for size, to beat these
ketches. In Fig. 98 we give an illustration of a Lowestoft “drifter.”
With her boomless mainsail and raking mizzen, setting a jackyard
topsail over both main and mizzen, she sets also in light winds a
large reaching jib.

Fig. 98. Lowestoft Drifter.

 Fig. 99. Thames Barge.

We come next to the yawl. Correctly speaking this word has

reference not to rig but to shape. The Scandinavian yol was a light
vessel, clinker-built and double-ended, like the Viking shape. The
Yarmouth yawls that we shall consider presently, were correctly
called yawls with their bow and stern alike. But the word has now
come to refer to a later adaptation of the ketch, in which the
mainsail has grown bigger and the mizzen smaller. In a ketch the
mizzen mast is stepped forward of the rudder-head; in the yawl the
mizzen mast is abaft the rudder-head. The Jullanar, for instance, in
Fig. 117, is a yawl. But to the Londoner no more familiar example
could be found of a yawl than the Thames barge, of which the
illustration in Fig. 99 is a fair specimen. Still inheriting her Dutch-like
spritsail and brailing arrangement, she has also the vangs that were
first attached to the peak in the sixteenth century. The old-fashioned
topsail is a cross between a modern jackyarder and the old Dutch
square topsail. Aft she carries another small spritsail on the
diminutive mizzen. Smaller types of barge, called “stumpies,” have
only pole-masts and neither bowsprit nor jib nor topsail. But the
larger type of barge, carrying topmast and setting a big jib-headed
topsail, known as topsail barges, with their red-ochred canvas and
the untanned jib, always known by bargemen as the “spinnaker,”
have grown to such sizes that they go right down to the west end of
the English Channel. Yet these are rather ketches than yawls. But
even in the Thames barges developments have not ceased.
Obviously Dutch, as they strike one in a moment, the old Dutch bluff
bows have been replaced by the straight bow as seen in the sketch.
A whole book could be written about the barge and her ways, her
history, her leeboards, her lengthy topmast, and the wooden horse
on which the staysail works; but we must pass on.