HELMETS

SAVE CORRECT FITTING - MAKE

SURE YOUR HELMET COVERS

LIVES !!!
YOUR FOREHEAD.

ALWAYS WEAR A PROPERLY

FITTED HELMET WHEN
YOU RIDE YOUR BICYCLE.
DO NOT RIDE AT NIGHT.
AVOID RIDING IN WET INCORRECT FITTING. FOREHEAD
CONDITIONS. IS EXPOSED AND VULNERABLE
TO SERIOUS INJURY.
 P ersonal C are
from Pacific Cycle
1.800.626.2811
Congratulations on your new bike!
Our Service Department is dedicated
to your satisfaction with Pacific Cycle.
We want to help with any questions
or comments you may have.
You can also reach us by email at:
[email protected].

D O N O T Return this Product to the Store.

STOP Please Call Pacific Cycle for Assistance.
RIDING SAFELY
General Rules
When riding obey the same road laws as all other road vehicles, including giving way to
pedestrians, and stopping at red lights and stop signs.
For further information, contact the Road Traffic Authority in your State.
Ride predictably and in a straight line. Never ride against traffic.
Use correct hand signals to indicate turning or stopping.
Ride defensively. To other road users, you may be hard to see.
Concentrate on the path ahead. Avoid pot holes, gravel, wet road markings, oil, curbs, speed
bumps, drain grates and other obstacles.
Cross train tracks at a 90 degree angle or walk your bicycle across.
Expect the unexpected such as opening car doors or cars backing out of concealed driveways.
Be extra careful at intersections and when preparing to pass other vehicles.
Familiarize yourself with all the bicycle's features. Practice gear shifts, braking, and the use of
toe clips and straps, if fitted.
If you are wearing loose pants, use leg clips or elastic bands to prevent them from being caught
in the chain.
Don't carry packages or passengers that will interfere with your visibility or control of the bicycle.
Don't use items that may restrict your hearing.
When braking, always apply the rear brake first, then the front. The front brake is more powerful
and if it is not correctly applied, you may lose control and fall.
Maintain a comfortable stopping distance from all other riders, vehicles and objects.
Safe braking distances and forces are subject to the prevailing weather conditions.

14
 Wet Weather
DO NOT RIDE IN WET WEATHER
- In wet weather you need to take extra care.
- Brake earlier, you will take a longer distance to stop.
- Decrease your riding speed, avoid sudden braking, and take corners with additional
caution.
- Be more visible on the road.
- Wear reflective clothing and use safety lights.
- Pot holes and slippery surfaces such as line markings and train tracks all become more
hazardous when wet.

Night Riding
Do not ride at night

- Ensure bicycle is equipped with a full set of correctly positioned and clean reflectors.
- Refer to p. 82 of this manual.
- Use a properly functioning lighting set comprising a white front lamp and a red rear lamp.
- If using battery powered lights, make sure batteries are well charged.
- Some rear lights available have a flashing mechanism which enhances visibility.
- Wear reflective and light colored clothing.
- Ride at night only if necessary. Slow down and use familiar roads with street lighting, if possible.

Pedaling Technique
- Position the ball of your foot on the center of the pedal.
- When pedaling, ensure your knees are parallel to the bicycle frame.
- To absorb shock, keep your elbows slightly bent.
- Learn to operate the gears properly. (Refer to p. 13-15)

15
Hill Technique
- Gear down before a climb and continue gearing down as required to maintain pedaling speed.
- If you reach the lowest gear and are struggling, stand up on your pedals. You will then obtain more power from
each pedal revolution.
- On the descent, use the high gears to avoid rapid pedaling.
- Do not exceed a comfortable speed, maintain control and take additional care.

Cornering Technique
Brake slightly before cornering and prepare to lean your body into the corner. Maintain the inside pedal at the 12 o'clock
position and slightly point the inside knee in the direction you are turning. Keep the other leg straight, don't pedal through
fast or tight corners.

Rules for Children

To avoid accidents, teach children good riding skills with an emphasis on safety from an early age.
1. Always wear a properly fitted helmet.
2. Do not play in driveways or the road.
3. Do not ride on busy streets.
4. Do not ride at night.
5. Obey all the traffic laws, especially stop signs and red lights.
6. Be aware of other road vehicles behind and nearby.
7. Before entering a street: Stop, look right, left, and right again for traffic.
If there's no traffic, proceed into the roadway.
8. If riding downhill, be extra careful. Slow down using the brakes and maintain control of the steering.
9. Never take your hands off the handlebars, or your feet off the pedals when riding downhill.

The Consumer Protection Safety Commission advises that the riding of small wheel diameter
bicycles at excessive speeds can lead to instability and is not recommended.

Children should be made aware of all possible riding hazards and correct riding behavior before they take to the streets
- Do not leave it up to trial and error.

16
 Drivetrain Derailleur Control GEARS - HOW TO OPERATE
Cable
Freewheel Front Derailleur
Cogs Derailleur Gears
Most multi-speed bicycles today are equipped with what are known as
derailleur gears. They operate using a system of levers and mechanisms
to move the drive chain between different sized driving gears or cogs.
The purpose of gears is to let you maintain a constant, steady pedaling
pace under varying conditions. This means your riding will be less
tiring without unnecessary straining up hills or fast pedaling down hill.
Bicycles come with a variety of gear configurations from 5 to 27
speeds. A 5-6 speed bicycle will have a single front chainwheel, a
Front Chainwheels
Guide Pulley rear derailleur, and 5 or 6 cogs on the rear hub. Bicycles with more
Crank Arm gears will also have a front derailleur, a front chainwheel with
Rear Derailleur 2-3 cogs, and up to 8 cogs on the rear hub.
Pedal

Operating Principles
No matter how many gears, the operating principles are the same.
The front derailleur is operated by the left shift lever and the rear
derailleur by the right. To operate you must be pedaling forward. You
can not shift derailleur gears when you are stopped or when pedaling
backwards. Before shifting ease up on your pedaling pressure. For a
smooth gear change when approaching a hill, shift to a lower gear
BEFORE your pedaling speed slows down too much. When coming
to a stop, shift to a lower gear first so it will be easier when you start
riding again. If, after selecting a new gear position, you hear a slight
rubbing noise from the front or rear gears, gently adjust the appropriate
shifter using the barrel adjusters until the noise goes away. For opti-
mal performance and extended chain life, it is recommended that you
avoid using the extreme combinations of gear positions (diagram p.
14) for extended periods.

17
 1 1
3 2 3 2
4 4
6 5 6 5

2 1 1
3 For optimal performance, 2 For optimal performance,
High Middle Low NOT RECOMMENDED High Low NOT RECOMMENDED

Recommended Chainwheel/Rear Sprocket Gear Combinations

Front Low Gear Rear Low Gear

Hand Grip Shifters
Some bicycles are now being equipped with a shifting
mechanism called Grip Shift, which is built into the handlebar grips
and does not make use of separate levers. The actuating mechanism
is built into the inside part of the grip that the web of the thumb and
index finger closes around. To select a lower gear, twist the right
shifter toward you to engage a larger rear cog. You can shift one gear
at a time by moving the Grip Shift one click, or through multiple gears
by continued twisting. By twisting the left shifter forward or away from
you, a smaller chainwheel can be selected. To select a higher gear,
twist the right shifter forward or away from you to engage a smaller
rear cog. To engage a larger front chainwheel, twist the left shifter
towards you. Single shifts can be achieved by twisting one click at a
Front High Gear Rear High Gear time and multiple shifts by larger twists.

18
 Please Retain your Sales Receipt
as Proof of Purchase.

Notes:
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________

_______________________________________________________________________

_______________________________________________________________________

_______________________________________________________________________

_______________________________________________________________________

_______________________________________________________________________
The following manual is only a guide to assist you and is not a complete or comprehensive manual of all aspects of
maintaining and repairing your bicycle. The bicycle you have purchased is a complex object. We recommend that you
consult a bicycle specialist if you have doubts or concerns as to your experience or ability to properly assemble, repair, or
maintain your bicycle. You will save time and the inconvenience of having to go back to the store if you choose to write or
call us concerning missing parts, service questions, operating advice, and/or assembly questions.

SERVICE
CALL TOLL FREE 1.800.626.2811
Monday - Friday 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Central Time

Serial Number Location

Bottom View

PACIFICC Y C L E
4902 Hammersley Road
Madison, WI 53711
Customer Service 1.800.626.2811
www.pacific-cycle.com Serial Number
 Thank You for purchasing your bicycle. Please take a moment to fill out this reply card, and
mail it back to us. We value your business and appreciate your feedback.

Name: ______________________________________________ Birthdate: ____________________

Cut along dotted line before mailing

Address: __________________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________________
E-mail Address: ____________________________Phone Number: ________________________
Bicycle Model purchased: __________________________________________________________
Store at which you purchased your bicycle: ____________________________________________
Serial Number ____________________________________________________________________

How did you hear about your bicycle?

Magazine Ad In Store Display Web Site

Newspaper Ad Friends Other (Please specify)

What was the most important factor in choosing your bicycle?

Color / Graphics Frame Style Gift

Price Components Other (Please specify)

Cut along dotted line before mailing

www.pacific-cycle.com
 PLACE
STAMP
HERE

Cut along dotted line before mailing

BICYCLE REGISTRATION
4902 HAMMERSLEY ROAD
MADISON, WI 53711

Cut along dotted line before mailing

 PART 1 Parts Identification ................................................01-05

DIRECTORY
PART 2 Before You Ride ....................................................06-21

PART 3 Assembly ..............................................................22-54

PART 4 Servicing ................................................................55-57

PART 5 Detailed Maintenance ............................................58-90

? PART 6 How Things Work ................................................91-103

PART 7 Purchase Record and Warranty ........................104-105

Warning / Important
Take notice of this symbol throughout this manual and pay particular
attention to the instructions blocked off and preceded by this symbol.

PACIFICC Y C L E
4902 Hammersley Road Madison, WI 53711
Customer Service 1.800.626.2811 www.pacific-cycle.com
 1. PARTS IDENTIFICATION 2-5 Derailleur Geared Bicycle 22-42 Tire Pressures 5 9 -Freewheel 81-82
Mountain Bicycles 2 Handlebars 22-24 Hub Bearing Adjustment 60 -Inspection 8 1
BMX Bicycles 3 Forks 25 Flat Tire Repair 60-61 -Lubrication 8 2
Seat and Seat Post 26 Handlebar Stem 62-63
Tools Required 4 Pedals & Crank Set 27 Handlebars 63 -Coaster Hub 82
Front Wheel 28
2. BEFORE YOU RIDE 6-21 Quick Release Axle 28-29 Grip Shift Installation 64 Derailleur Systems 83-85
Correct Frame Size 6 -Inspection 8 3
Riding Position 7 Front Brake 29-36 Cables & Cable Housing 65 -Lubrication 8 4
-Saddle Height 7 -Cantilever with Link Wire 29-30 -Adjustment (Rear) 84
-Reach 7 -Cantilever with Straddle Cable 31 Headset 66 -Adjustment (Front) 85
-Handlebar Height 8 -V-Style 31-33 -Inspection 6 6
-Check your Brakes 34 -Adjustment 66 Quick Release Levers 86
Safety Checklist 9-10 -Disk Brakes 35-36 Reflectors 86
-Brakes 9 Suspension Fork 67 Miscellaneous Accessories 87
-Wheels & Tires 9 Derailleur 37-38 -RST Maintenance 67 Troubleshooting 88-90
-Steering 9 -Rear Derailleur 37 -RST Reassembly 67
-Chain 1 0 -Front Derailleur 38 -Check before each ride 67 6. HOW THINGS WORK 91-103
-Bearings 10 -A. Wheel Quick Release 91-94
-Cranks & Pedals 10 Dual Suspension 39 Saddle & Seat Post 68-69 -B. Seatpost Quick Release 95
-Derailleurs 10 Rear Pivots 40 -Inspection 6 8 -C. Brakes 96-97
-Frame & Fork 10 Accessories 41 -Lubrication 6 8 -D. Shifting 97-99
-Accessories 10 Reflectors 41 -Adjustment 69 -E. Toeclips & Straps 100
Final Check 42 -F. Clipless (“step-in”) pedals 101
Helmets 11 Brakes 70-73 -G. Tires and Tubes 101-102
Reflectors 12-13 Single Speed & BMX 43-54 -Inspection 70-71 -H. Bicycle Suspension 103
Handlebars 43 -Lubrication 7 1
Riding Safely 14-16 Seat 44 -Adjustment Sidepull Calipers 71-72 7. PURCHASE RECORD 104-105
-General Rules 14 Pedals & Crank Set 44 -Adjustment Cantilever Calipers 72-73 & WARRANTY
-Wet Weather Riding 15 Frontwheel 45
-Night Riding 15 Drivetrain 74-82
-Pedaling Technique 15 Front Brake 45 -Pedals 74-75
-Hill Technique 16 Side Pull Brake 46 -Inspection 7 4
-Cornering Technique 16 Cantilever with Link Wire 46-47 -Lubrication & Adjustment 75
-Rules for Children 16 V-Brake 48-49 -Attachment 75
Cantilever with Straddle Cable 50
Gears - How to Operate 17-19 Check your Brakes 51 -Crank Set 76-79
-Derailleur Gears 17 Training Wheels 5 1 -Inspection 7 6
-Operating Principles 17 Rotors 52-53 -Lubrication & Adjustment
-Hand Grip Shifters 18 Final Check 54 (one piece cranks) 77
-Thumb Shifters 19 -Lubrication & Adjustment
-Below the Bar Shifters 19 4. SERVICING 55-57 (cotterless cranks) 78-79
Schedule 1 - Lubrication 55
Bicycle Care 20-21 Schedule 2 - Service Checklist 56 -Chain 80-81
-Basic Maintenance 20 Tools Required 5 7 -Inspection 8 0
-Storage 21 -Lubrication 8 0
-Security 21 5. DETAILED MAINTENANCE 58-90 -Adjustment & Replacement 80-81
Wheel Inspection 58
3. ASSEMBLY 22-54 Tire Inspection 5 9

01
Mountain Bicycles . Mountain bicycles are designed to give maximum comfort over a wide variety of road surfaces. The wider
handlebars and convenient shift lever position make them very easy to control. Wider rims and tires give them a softer ride with
more traction on rough surfaces. The frame and fork on mountain style bicycles are much sturdier than those on racing style bicycles.

Shift Lever

Handlebar

PART 1 - PARTS IDENTIFICATION

Top Tube
Brake Lever
Seat
Brake Control Cables
Seat Post
Handlebar Stem Front Reflector
Quick Release
Head Set Front Brake
Seat Stay
Head Tube Front Fork
Rear Reflector
Wheel Reflector
Rear Brake
Seat Tube Front Hub
Wheel Reflector
Down Tube Spokes
Freewheel
Gear Control Cable

Front Derailleur

Bottom
Bracket Axle

Rim

Tire

Chain Wheel

Crank Arm

Pedal

Chainstay
Gear Control Tire Valve
Cable Chain
Rear Derailleur 02
 BMX Bicycles . BMX style bicycles are a popular general purpose type most suited for young riders. They are
valued because of their sturdy and simple construction, and low maintenance.

Brake Lever

Handlebar
Seat Handlebar Grip Brake Control Cable
Seat Post Handlebar Stem
Seat Post Binder Bolt Head Set Reflector
Seat Stay Head Tube Front Brake
Rear Reflector Top Tube Brake Pad
Wheel Reflector
Front Fork

Wheel Reflector
Front Hub
Spokes
Seat Tube

Down Tube

Chain Wheel

Crank Arm

Pedal

Rim
Chain
Tire
Rear Sprocket
Tire Valve
Training Wheel

03
Your new bicycle was assembled and tuned in the factory and then partially disassembled for shipping. You
may have purchased the bicycle already fully re-assembled and ready to ride OR in the shipping carton in the
partially disassembled form. The following instructions will enable you to prepare your bicycle for years of
enjoyable cycling. For more details on inspection, lubrication, maintenance and adjustment of any area please
refer to the relevant sections in this manual. If you have questions about your ability to properly assemble this
unit, please consult a qualified specialist before riding. If you need replacement parts or have questions pertain-
ing to assembly of your bicycle, call the service line direct at:

SERVICE AND TECHNICAL SUPPORT:

1.800.626.2811
Monday - Friday 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Central Time.

Tools Required:
Phillips head screw driver; 4mm, 5mm
6mm & 8mm Allen keys; adjustable
wrench or a 9mm, 10mm, 14mm & 15mm
open and box end wrenches; and a pliers
with cable cutting ability.

To avoid injury, this product must be properly assembled before use. If your bicycle was
obtained assembled, we strongly recommend that you review the complete assembly
instructions, and perform checks specified in this manual before riding.
04
 ABOUT THIS MANUAL
This manual was written to help you get the most performance, comfort, enjoyment and safety when riding your new bicycle.

It is important for you to understand your new bike. By reading this manual before you go out on your first ride, you’ll know how to get
the most from your new bicycle.

It is also important that your first ride on your new bicycle is taken in a controlled environment, away from cars, obstacles, and other
cyclists.

GENERAL WARNING
Bicycling can be a hazardous activity even under the best of circumstances. Proper maintenance of your bicycle is your responsibility as
it helps reduce the risk of injury. This manual contains many “Warnings” and “Cautions” concerning the consequences of failure to main-
tain or inspect your bicycle. Many of the warnings and cautions say, “you may lose control and fall.” Because any fall can result in seri-
ous injury or even death, we do not repeat the warning of possible injury or death whenever the risk of falling is mentioned.

A SPECIAL NOTE FOR PARENTS

It is a tragic fact that most bicycle accidents involve children. As a parent or guardian, you bear the responsibility for the activities and
safety of your minor child. Among these responsibilities are to make sure that the bicycle which your child is riding is properly fitted to the
child: that it is in good repair and safe operating condition; that you and your child have learned, understand and obey not only the applic-
able local motor vehicle, bicycle, and traffic laws, but also the common sense rules of safe and responsible bicycling. As a parent, you
should read this manual before letting your child ride the bicycle. Please make sure that your child always wears an approved bicycle
helmet when riding.

05
 CORRECT FRAME SIZE
When selecting a new bicycle, the correct choice of frame size is a very important safety consideration. Most full sized
bicycles come in a range of frame sizes. These sizes usually refer to the distance between the center of the bottom bracket
and the top of the frame seat tube.

PART 2 - BEFORE YOU RIDE

For safe and comfortable riding there should be a clearance of between 25mm and 50mm between
the groin area of the intended rider and the top tube of the bicycle frame, while the rider straddles the
bicycle with both feet flat on the ground.

The ideal clearance will vary between types of bicycles and rider preference. This makes straddling the frame when off the
saddle easier and safer in situations such as sudden traffic stops. Women can use a men’s style bicycle to determine the
correct size women’s model.

The following chart and diagram will help you make the correct choice. Rider leg length refers to approximate pant inseam.

Frame Sizing Guide

Approximate Rider Leg Suggested Frame Size for Suggested Frame Size for
Length Racing/Touring Bicycle Mountain or Hybrid Bicycle

61-69cm / 24-27 inches - 37cm / 14.5 inches

66-76cm / 26-30 inches - 43cm / 17 inches

25-50mm
71-79cm / 28-31 inches 50cm / 19.5 inches 45cm / 18 inches

76-84cm / 30-33 inches 55cm / 21.5 inches 50cm / 19.5 inches

79-86cm / 31-34 inches 57cm / 22.5 inches 52cm / 20.5 inches

81-89cm / 32-35 Inches 60cm / 23.5 Inches 53-56cm / 21-22 Inches

86-94cm / 34-37 inches 63cm / 25 inches 58-60cm / 23-23.5 inches

06
 RIDING POSITION
Saddle Height
In order to obtain the most comfortable riding position and offer the
best possible pedaling efficiency, the seat height should be set
correctly in relation to the rider’s leg length. The correct saddle height
should not allow leg strain from over-extension, and the hips should
not rock from side to side when pedaling. While sitting on the bicycle
with one pedal at its lowest point, place the ball of your foot on that
pedal. The correct saddle height will allow the knee to be slightly
bent in this position. If the rider then places the heel of that foot on
the pedal, the leg should be almost straight.
Maximum Height / Mini-
mum Insertion Mark
(Should not be visible) Under no circumstances should the seat post project
from the frame beyond its “Minimum Insertion” or
“Maximum Extension” mark. If your seat post projects
from the frame beyond these markings, the seat post
Arms not over- or frame may break, which could cause you to lose control and
extended
fall. After any saddle adjustment, be sure to tighten the saddle
Handlebar stem adjusting mechanism properly before riding. A loose saddle
height about the clamp or seat post binder can cause damage to the bicycle or
same as can cause you to lose control and fall. Periodically check to make
seat height
sure that the saddle adjusting mechanism is properly tightened.

Reach
To obtain maximum comfort, the rider should not overextend his or her
reach when riding.

To adjust this distance, the position of the seat can be altered in

Pedal at relation to the seat pillar. (Refer to p. 65 on how to adjust the seat
bottom position clamp.)
07
 Handlebar Height
Stem Wedge Bolt Maximum comfort is usually obtained when the handlebar height is
equal to the height of the seat. You may wish to try different heights
to find the most comfortable position.

Handlebar Binder Bolt

Maximum Height/
Minimum Insertion
Exceeds 2 1/2” Mark
(64mm)

Threadless headsets and clamp-on stems are not adjustable and are outside the scope
of this manual. Please consult a qualified bicycle technician for details and instruc-
tions on how to adjust and maintain these types of systems.

The stem’s “Minimum Insertion” mark must not be visible above the top of the headset.
If the stem is extended beyond this mark, the stem may break or damage the fork’s
steerer tube, which could cause you to lose control and fall.

Failure to properly tighten the stem binder bolt, the handlebar binder bolt, or the bar
end extension clamping bolts may compromise steering action, which could cause you
to lose control and fall. Place the front wheel of the bicycle between your legs and
attempt to twist the handlebar/stem assembly. If you can twist the stem in relation to
the front wheel, turn the handlebars in relation to the stem, or turn the bar end exten-
sions in relation to the handlebar, you must tighten the appropriate bolts accordingly.

08
 SAFETY CHECKLIST
Before every ride, it is important to carry out the following safety checks:

1. Brakes
- Ensure front and rear brakes work properly.
- Ensure brake shoe pads are not over worn and are correctly positioned in relation to the rims.
- Ensure brake control cables are lubricated, correctly adjusted, and display no obvious wear.
- Ensure brake control levers are lubricated and tightly secured to the handlebar.

2. Wheels and Tires

- Ensure tires are inflated to within the maximum recommended limit as displayed on the tire sidewall.
- Ensure tires have tread and have no bulges or excessive wear.
- Ensure rims run true and have no obvious wobbles or kinks.
- Ensure all wheel spokes are tight and not broken.
- Check that axle nuts are tight. If your bicycle is fitted with quick release axles, make sure locking levers
are correctly tensioned and in the closed position.

3. Steering
- Ensure handlebar and stem are correctly adjusted and tightened, and allow proper steering.
- Ensure that the handlebars are set correctly in relation to the forks and the direction of travel.
- Check that the head set locking mechanism is properly adjusted and tightened.
- If the bicycle is fitted with handlebar end extensions, ensure they are properly positioned and tightened.

09
4. Chain
- Ensure chain is oiled, clean and runs smoothly.
- Extra care is required in wet or dusty conditions.

5. Bearings
- Ensure all bearings are lubricated, run freely and display no excess movement, grinding or rattling.
- Check headset, wheel bearings, pedal bearings and bottom bracket bearings.

6. Cranks and Pedals

- Ensure pedals are securely tightened to the cranks.
- Ensure cranks are securely tightened to the axle and are not bent.

7. Derailleurs
- Check that front and rear mechanisms are adjusted and function properly.
- Ensure control levers are securely attached.
- Ensure derailleurs, shift levers and control cables are properly lubricated.

8. Frame and Fork

- Check that the frame and fork are not bent or broken.
- If either are bent or broken, they should be replaced.

9. Accessories
- Ensure that all reflectors are properly fitted and not obscured.
- Ensure all other fittings on the bike are properly and securely fastened, and functioning.
- Ensure the rider is wearing a helmet.

10
 Helmets
It is strongly advised that a properly fitting, ANSI or SNELL approved,
bicycle safety helmet be worn at all times when riding your bicycle. In
addition, if you are carrying a passenger in a child safety seat, they
must also be wearing a helmet.

The correct helmet should:

- be comfortable
- be lightweight
- have good ventilation
- fit correctly

Always wear a properly fitted helmet when riding a bicycle. Many states require specific safety devices.
It is your responsibility to familiarize yourself with the laws of the state where you ride and to comply
with all applicable laws, including properly equipping yourself and your bike as the law requires. Reflec-
tors are important safety devices which are designed as an integral part of your bicycle. Federal regula-
tions require every bicycle to be equipped with front, rear, wheel, and pedal reflectors. These reflectors
are designed to pick up and reflect street lights and car lights in a way that helps you to be seen and rec-
ognized as a moving bicyclist. Check reflectors and their mounting brackets regularly to make sure they
are clean, straight, unbroken, and securely mounted. Have your dealer replace damaged reflectors and
straighten or tighten any that are bent or loose.

11
Reflectors
Your bicycle is supplied with one front (white), one rear (red), two wheel (white), and two pedal (orange)
reflectors. These are an important safety and legal requirement, and should remain securely fitted and in good, clean condi-
tions at all times. Periodically, inspect all reflectors, brackets and mounting hardware for signs of wear or damage. Replace
immediately if damage is found. Some bicycles will require you to install your reflectors onto your bicycle. Please refer to the
following section for instructions on all the types of bicycle reflectors.

Fork Mount Reflector Bracket Assembly

First insert one washer onto the hex bolt and insert hex bolt through the reflector
bracket and then through the fork. Next, insert a second washer onto the bolt and
thread a hex nut onto the bolt behind the fork. Tighten bolts until snug, making sure
the reflector is in an upright position. See diagram at the right.

Front Reflector Mount with Caliper Brake Assembly

First remove the hex nut from the back of the fork and pull the brake from the fork.
Insert a washer and the reflector bracket on to the caliper bolt. Insert the caliper bolt
back into the fork and secure firmly with a washer and the hex nut. Finally, adjust the
reflector such that it is in an upright position. See diagram at the right.

12
 Seat and Handlebar Mounting Reflectors
First attach the reflector to the reflector bracket with the reflector screw, see the top
diagram. Next, remove the clamp screw and open the clamping reflector bracket.
Place clamping reflector bracket around the handlebar or seatpost. If the clamp is
too loose, insert the shim inside of the clamp. Tighten the clamp screw to hold
reflector assembly in place, see the second diagram. Finally, adjust the reflector
assembly in place. Finally, adjust the reflector such that it is upright and facing away
from the bike.

Chainstay Mount Reflector Bracket Assembly

first insert one washer onto the hex bolt and insert hex bolt through the reflector
bracket and then through the chainstay bridge. Next, insert a second washer onto
the bolt and thread a hex nut onto the bolt behind the chainstay bridge. Tighten
bolts until snug, making sure the reflector is in an upright position. See diagram at
the right.

13
 Thumb Shifters (Top Mounted)
Left hand lever Right hand lever
Most mountain style bicycles are equipped with shifters
mounted on the top of the handlebars and operated by the thumbs.
To select a lower, easier gear, shift to a bigger rear cog and a small
chainwheel. Pull the left shifter back to operate the front derailleur,
and push the right shifter forward to operate the rear derailleur. To
select a higher, harder gear, shift to a smaller rear cog and a larger
chainwheel. Push the left shifter forward for the front, and pull the
right lever back for the rear.
Top Gear Bottom Gear
(Harder) (Easier)
Small rear sprocket Large rear sprocket
Large chainwheel Small chainwheel

Left hand lever forward Left hand lever back

Right hand lever back Right hand lever forward

Below the Bar Shifters

Left hand lever Right hand lever Many mountain style bicycles now use a shift lever arrangement
mounted on the underside of the handlebars, which use two levers
operated by the thumb and index finger. To select a lower gear push
the larger (lower) right shifter with your thumb to engage a larger rear
cog. One firm push shifts the chain one cog, continuing to push will
move the chain over multiple cogs. Pulling the smaller (upper) left
shifter with your index finger moves the chain from a larger to a smaller
chainwheel. To select a higher gear pull the smaller (upper) right
lever with your index finger to engage a smaller rear cog. Pushing
the larger (lower) left lever with your thumb will move the chain from a
smaller to a larger chainwheel.

19
BICYCLE CARE
Basic Maintenance
The following procedures will help you maintain your bicycle for years of enjoyable riding.
For painted frames, dust the surface and remove any loose dirt with a dry cloth. To clean, wipe with a damp cloth
soaked in a mild detergent mixture. Dry with a cloth and polish with car or furniture wax. Use soap and water to clean
plastic parts and rubber tires. Chrome plated bikes should be wiped over with a rust preventative fluid.

Store your bicycle under shelter. Avoid leaving it in the rain or exposed to corrosive materials.
Riding on the beach or in coastal areas exposes your bicycle to salt which is very corrosive. Wash your bicycle
frequently and wipe or spray all unpainted parts with an anti-rust treatment. Make sure wheel rims are dry so braking
performance is not affected. After rain, dry your bicycle and apply anti-rust treatment.

If the hub and bottom bracket bearings of your bicycle have been submerged in water, they should be taken out and
re-greased. This will prevent accelerated bearing deterioration.

If paint has become scratched or chipped to the metal, use touch up paint to prevent rust. Clear nail polish can also be
used as a preventative measure.

Regularly clean and lubricate all moving parts, tighten components and make adjustments as required. (Refer to Parts
4 and 5 of this manual for further details).
The use of alloy components and BED, SATIN, and TITANIUM surface treatments minimizes the number of places
where rust can surface.

20
 Storage
Keep your bicycle in a dry location away from the weather and the
sun. Ultraviolet rays may cause paint to fade or rubber and plastic
parts to crack.Before storing your bicycle for a long period of time,
clean and lubricate all components and wax the frame. Deflate the
tires to half pressure and hang the bicycle off the ground. Don't store
near electric motors as ozone emissions may effect the rubber and
paint. Don't cover with plastic as "sweating” will result which may
cause rusting. Please notice that your bicycle warranty does not
cover paint damage, rust, corrosion, dry rot, or theft.

Security
It is advisable that the following steps be taken to prepare for and help
prevent possible theft.

1. Maintain a record of the bicycle’s serial number, generally located

on the frame underneath the bottom bracket.
2. Register the bicycle with the local police.
3. Invest in a high quality bicycle lock that will resist hack saws and
bolt cutters. Always lock your bicycle to an immovable object if it
is left unattended.

21
DERAILLEUR GEARED BICYCLES
Includes 20", 24” and 26" Wheel Mountain Bikes
Assembly is the same for men’s and women’s bikes.
.

PART 3 - ASSEMBLY
Getting Started
Open the carton from the top and remove the bicycle. Remove the
straps and protective wrapping from the bicycle. Inspect the bicycle
and all accessories and parts for possible shortages. It is recommended
that the threads and all moving parts in the parts package be lubricated
prior to installation. Do not discard packing materials until assembly is
complete to insure that no required parts are accidentally discarded.
Assemble your bicycle following the steps that pertain to your model.
Note: Your bicycle may be equipped with different style compo-
nents than the ones illustrated.

Handlebars
Remove the protective cap from the handlebar stem wedge and loosen
the Allen key bolt using the 6mm Allen key. Some models may use a
Binder Bolt 13mm hexagonal bolt instead of an Allen key bolt. Place the handlebar
stem into the top of the head tube, ensuring that all cables are free of
tangles. Tighten the stem bolt observing the minimum insertion mark and
checking that the forks and the handlebars are facing forward. Check
the headset for smooth rotation and that the top nut is secured tightly.
Stem Bolt Loosen the 6mm Binder Bolt and rotate the handlebar forward so the
levers are at a 45 degree angle below the handlebar. Retighten the
Binder Bolt to ensure the handlebar does not rotate in the stem.
Top Nut
Minimum Insertion
Mark Warning: Over tightening the stem bolt or headset
assembly may cause damage to the bicycle and/or
injury to the rider.
Wedge
Head Tube

22
 NOTE: Comfort Series (CS) bicycles may be equipped with a stem that has an adjustable angle.
In addition to the normal assembly, these stems will require angling the stem to the desired position,
and securely tightening the 6mm angle bolt located in front of the stem bolt.
Failure to do this may cause loss of steering control.

If the stem is not inserted into the top nut to at least the “Minimum Insertion” mark, it is
possible to over-tighten the stem bolt and damage the fork steerer tube. If these instruc-
tions are not followed, it could cause an unsafe condition and risk injury to the rider.
Check steering tightness prior to riding by straddling the front wheel. Try turning the han-
dlebar. If you can turn it without turning the front wheel, the stem is too loose. Re-align
the handlebar with the front wheel and re-tighten the stem bolt.

23
 Shifter binder bolt
(2.5 Allen key)

Brake lever binder bolt

Bar end (5mm Allen key) (5mm Allen key)
1.

Tighten all bolts that clamp the shifters, brake levers, and bar ends
to the handlebar using a 5mm Allen key or Phillips head screwdriver.
(Figure 1) Handlebar with Grip Shifter.
(Figure 2) Top mounted thumb shifter.
Shift binder
bolt (Phillips
head or 5mm
Allen key)

Failure to properly tighten clamping bolts may

cause sudden movement of the component
resulting in loss of steering control. 2.
24
 Steering Tube
Forks
There are two different types of forks that range in styles and
Brake Boss dimensions. One type is a rigid fork (Figure 1) consisting of
stationary tubing with curved blades. The other type is a
Drop-out suspension fork (Figure 2) consisting of stanchion tubes
riding on elastomers or springs inside of a straight fork leg.
This mechanism acts as a shock absorber with a specified
amount of travel that varies between models. Some suspen-
Crown
sion forks are not adjustable and are very difficult to disas-
semble. If service is needed on a suspension fork, consult a
professional bicycle repair technician.

Fork Leg
1. Do not attempt to disassemble a suspension
fork yourself. Consult a professional bicycle
repair technician.

Check the tightness of the headset and the fork. Rotate the
Brake Bridge fork checking for smoothness. If it feels like the fork is
Crown
Brake Boss binding, then an adjustment will need to be made to the
headset. Move the fork in a push/pull manner checking for
Drop-out tightness. If any play is detected, loosen the top nut, adjust
the bearing cup, and retighten the top nut. Recheck the
rotation and tightness. If necessary, readjust until a smooth
rotation is achieved without backward or forward movement.
If your bike is equipped with a suspension fork, check that
Steering Tube the fork compresses and rebounds smoothly. To do this,
place the fork dropouts against the ground, push and
release the handlebar. The fork will generally compress 1-2”
Fork Leg and rebound quickly. Most elastomer type forks will gradually
2. soften with use.

25
 Seat and Seat Post
Attach the seat to the seat post by loosening the nuts on the seat clamp. Insert the
tapered end of the seat post into the seat clamp until it is at the top of the clamp.
Partially tighten the nuts on the seat clamp until the seat is snug, but can still be
Seat turned. Insert the seat assembly into the frame of the bicycle and adjust the seat to
Clamp the proper height. The seat post must be inserted to at least the “Minimum Inser-
Seat
Post tion” line marked on the seat post. If equipped with a quick release; tighten the
adjusting nut by hand and move the quick release lever to the closed position. You
Adjusting Quick should feel considerable resistance while moving the lever. If not, re-open and re-
Nut Release tighten the lever, then move it to the closed position so it is in line with the frame as
pictured. If equipped with a binder clamp; Insure the lip on the binder clamp is fitted
completely against the top of the seat tube of the frame. With the seat post insert-
ed, tighten the binder bolt securely. Position the top of the seat parallel with the
ground. Push the front of the seat up and down to firmly mesh the serrations
together. The serrations must mesh completely together to insure a stabilized riding
Attach position. Securely tighten the nut on the seat clamp. If there is a nut on both sides
Seat Here of the clamp, tighten each one by alternating from one to the other. Check for tight-
ness by twisting the seat from side to side, and from front to back. If the seat
moves at the seat clamp or quick release, reposition and re-tighten the appropriate
Boot clamping mechanism.

NOTE: Comfort Series (CS) bicycles may be equipped with a suspension

seat post (See Diagram-bottom left). Some suspension posts can be adjusted for stiff-
ness using the preload adjusting screw. Turning the 6mm Allen screw Clockwise will
decrease travel and make the suspension stiffer, while turning the 6mm Allen screw
Counter-clockwise will increase travel and make the suspension less rigid.

Minimum
Note: In addition to normal assembly, please be aware that the preload adjusting
Insertion screw must be flush with the bottom of the post. Some bicycles may come equipped
Mark Insert this with a shim that should be positioned over the lower half of the seat post and inserted
end into into the seat tube of the frame. Failure to do this may cause irreparable damage.
frame

The seat post must be inserted so that the minimum insertion

Preload adjusting mark cannot be seen. The quick release mechanism must be
screw on underside tightened securely to prevent a sudden shift of the seat when
riding. Failure to do this may cause loss of bicycle control.
26
 Pedals & Crank Set
Look for the letters “R” for right, and “L” for left, stamped on each pedal
spindle. Start each pedal spindle by hand to avoid stripping the threads.
Tighten with a 15mm narrow open ended wrench. Note that the right
hand pedal attaches to the chainwheel side crank arm with a right-hand
(clockwise) thread. The left pedal attaches to the other crank arm and has
a left-hand (counter-clockwise) thread. It is very important that you check
the crank set for correct adjustment and tightness before riding your
Dust
bicycle. New cranks may become loose with initial use, refer to p. 73-76
Cap for proper crank set adjustment and maintenance. Once the pedals have
been installed, remove the dust caps from the center of each crank arm.
Using a 14mm socket wrench, tighten the spindle nuts securely (approx.
350 in. lbs.) and replace the dust caps.
Attachment of an incorrect pedal into a crank arm will
cause irreparable damage. Before your first ride, please
check to insure your pedals are attached correctly.

27
 Quick Front Wheel
Adjusting Release
Nut
Quick Check the wheel hub before attaching it to the fork by rotating the
Axle Release
threaded axle. It should be smooth with no lateral movement. Insert
Lever
the front wheel into the fork dropouts. Tighten the wheel nuts using
the appropriate 14mm or 15mm wrench. Spin the wheel checking for
trueness. Some bicycles have wheel axles that incorporate a Quick
Release (QR) mechanism. This allows easy wheel removal without
the need for tools. The mechanism uses a long bolt with an adjusting
Hub Spring nut on one end, and a lever operating a cam-action tensioner on the
Hub
Axle other. If the wheel is fitted with a Quick Release type axle, turn the
adjusting nut so that the locking lever is moved to the closed position
with a firm action. At the halfway closed position of the quick release
lever, you should start to feel some resistance to this motion. Do not
tighten the quick release by using the quick release lever like a wing
Closed Position
nut. If the quick release lever is moved to the closed position with no
resistance, clamping strength is insufficient. Move the quick release
lever to the open position, tighten the quick release adjusting nut,
and return the quick release lever to the closed position.

Correct Quick Release Axle Setting

1. To set, turn the lever to the open position so that the curved
part faces away from the bicycle.
2. While holding the lever in one hand, tighten the adjusting nut
Open Position until it stops.
3. Pivot the lever towards the closed position. When the lever is
halfway closed, there must be firm resistance to turn it
beyond that point. If resistance is not firm, open the lever and
tighten the adjusting nut in a clockwise direction.
4. Continue to pivot the lever all the way to the closed position
so that the curved part of the lever faces the bicycle.

28
 5. The wheel is tightly secured when the serrated surfaces of the
quick release clamping parts actually begin to cut into the
bicycle frame/fork surfaces.
6. Note that the same procedure applies when operating a quick
release seat post binder mechanism.
7. Turn the bicycle upright using the kickstand to support it.

If you can fully close the quick release without wrapping you fin-
gers around the for blade for leverage, and the lever does not
leave a clear imprint in the palm of you hand, the tension is
insufficient. Open the lever, turn the adjusting, and try again.
Continue until the QR lever closes properly. Secondary retention
devices are not a substitute for a correct quick release adjust-
ment. Failure to properly adjust the quick release mechanism
can cause the wheel to wobble or disengage, which could cause
you to lose control and fall, resulting in serous injury or death.
Cantilever 1. Install the cable into
Brakes the link wire. Front Brake
Determine which type of brake your bike is equipped with and refer to
the appropriate assembly instructions. For more information on brake
Cable adjustment and maintenance, refer to p. 66-69.
End
Cantilever Brakes - Utilizing a Link Wire
If fitted with cantilever type brakes, insert the brake cable into the link
wire lead, and notch the cable end into the slot of the left brake arm.
Loosen the anchor bolt on the right brake arm and slide the brake cable
2. Set the cable into under the tabbed washer. Squeeze both brake arms together so the
2
the straddle holder. 1 brake shoes hit the rim, pull all slack out of the brake cable, and tighten
the anchor bolt. With the cable fitted, the straddle holder should sit 10-
20mm above the reflector bracket. Adjust the brake shoes using a
10mm wrench so that they are parallel with the rim and are positioned
1-2mm away from the rim. Several adjustments may be necessary to
achieve the correct brake position.
29
3. Temporarily tighten the cable so 5. Secure one of the shoes at a time.
that the link wire is at the position in The adjustment of the shoe clearance is
the illustration. not necessary at this time.
Shoe fixing nut tightening torque:
Link Wire 7.84 - 8.82 Nm (70 - 78 in. lbs.)

10 mm wrench
To u c h i n g
5 mm Allen key
Cable Anchor Bolt

Spring tension
adjustment screw 1 mm

6. If balance adjustment is necessary,

Cable Casing Holder adjust with the spring tension
adjustment screw.

1 2 Cut off any unnecessary

4. Turn the spring tension
cable, attach an end cap,
adjustment screw so that the link
and hook it onto the
wire comes to a position directly
1 2 notched part of the nut
below the cable casing holder.
which secures the shoe.

End cap

2 1

2 1

30
 Straddle Cantilever Brakes - Utilizing a Straddle Cable
Cable The length of the straddle cable, the height of the straddle hanger, and
Brake Brake Cable the brake pad-to-caliper arm position all have an effect on braking
power. Generally, the straddle cable bridge is set low and close to the
Straddle Hanger
Pinch Bolt
tire for maximum braking force. The straddle cable should be high
Straddle Cable enough, however, to adequately clear the tire (and any debris that
may stick to the tire) or to fit over the front reflector hanger. In the
event of brake cable failure, the front reflector hanger would prevent
the straddle cable from catching in the tire and locking up the front
90o wheel. The straddle cable length (when adjustable) is set to transfer
as much force to the brake pads as possible. For the most efficient
transfer of force, the straddle cable and the line between the
Cable cantilever pivot and the cable anchor should form a right angle (90
Anchor degrees). If the force is not at a right angle, part of the force gets
wasted in pulling on the brake post, which has no effect on braking.
Caliper Arm
Pivot

V-Style Brakes
If not already assembled, take the brake noodle from the parts box
and slide the cable through the larger opening. The cable housing will
Brake
Outer then seat into the end of the noodle. Slide the cable through the cable
Cable
Cable
Boot lead on the end of the left brake arm, this will cause the noodle to fit
Lead into the lead. Slip the brake cable boot over the cable and position it
between both brake arms. Next, loosen the 5mm anchor bolt at the
end of the right brake arm and slide the cable under the retaining
washer. Pull the slack out of the cable making sure a distance of
Brake
39mm or more remains between the end of the lead and the start of
Noodle
the anchor bolt. Once the cable is secured to the brake arms, engage
Anchor
the brake lever several times, checking the position of the brake
Bolt shoes at the rim. The brake shoes should be 1mm away from the rim
when in a relaxed position. When the brake lever is engaged, the
Brake
Arm
brake shoe should hit the rim flush (never the tire) with the front touch-
ing slightly before the rear. If this position is not achieved, adjustments
Pivot Tension to the brake shoe are required. Loosen the brake shoe hardware and
Bolt Brake Screw reposition the brake shoe. It may take several shoe and cable adjust-
Shoe
ments before the required position is accomplished.
31
 V - Brake 2. While holding the shoe against the rim, adjust the
amount of shoe protrusion by interchanging the
1. If fitted with V-Brakes, insert the brake body into position of the B washers (i.e. 6 mm and 3 mm) so that
the center spring hole in the frame mounting dimension A is kept at 39 mm or more.
boss, and then secure the brake body to the
frame with the link fixing bolt.
39 mm or more
A

5 mm Allen key

3 mm washer B 6 mm washer B

Shoe fixing nut

Washer

Link
Spring
fixing
hole
bolt Washer
Washer A
Washer A
Stopper pin Shoe fixing link

32
 3. While holding the shoe against the 5. Adjust the balance with the spring
rim, tighten the shoe fixing nut. tension adjustment screws.

shoe fixing nut

5 mm Allen key 1 mm 1 mm
1 mm

Spring tension Spring tension

adjustment screw adjustment screw

4. Pass the inner cable through the inner 6. Depress the brake lever about 10 times as
cable lead. Set the cable with a clearance far as the grip to check that everything is
of 1mm between each brake pad and the operating correctly and that the shoe
rim, tighten the cable fixing bolt. clearance is correct before using the brakes.

Depress about
10 times

5 mm Allen key

1mm 1mm

33
Check your Brakes
Press each brake lever to make sure that there is no binding and that the brake pads press hard enough on the rims to
stop the bike. The brake pads should be adjusted so they are 1 mm to 2 mm away from the rim when the brakes are
not applied. Brake pads should be centered on the rim and the rear portion of each brake pad should be about 0.5 - 1.0
mm farther from the rim than the front portion of the brake pad.

Brake pad aligned with the rim surface Pad and rim should be parallel. Direction of rim
rotation

1- 2 mm

0.5 - 1.0 mm

Do not ride the bicycle until the brakes are functioning

properly. To test, apply the brakes while trying to push
the bike forward to make sure they will stop the bicycle.
Never ride a bicycle that is not functioning properly.

Sudden or excessive application of the front brake may

pitch the rider over the handlebars, causing serious injury
or death.

34
 Disk Brakes
Brake Cable If fitted with a front disc brake, the components should already
Housing be attached. However, please check all connections before
Barrel Adjuster attempting to ride the bicycle. Secure tightly the 6 bolts that
Lock Nut hold the disc to the front wheel hub and the 2 bolts that hold
the brake mechanism to the fork. Insert the front rim into the
fork dropouts ensuring that the disc fits into the brake mechanism
Brake Lever between the enclosed brake pads. Secure the front rim to the
bicycle by tightening the quick release mechanism and clamping
the lever to the closed position. Please refer to section 6 for
further instruction on quick release mechanisms.
Cable
Insertion
Slot Next, attach the cable to the brake lever by inserting the cable
Brake Cable Cable End Brake Type end into the cable end holder after the barrel adjuster and lock
Holder Selector nut slots have been aligned with the cable end holder. After the
cable is secured to the lever, rotate the barrel adjuster and lock
nut so the slots no longer line up. Ensure the cable housing
seats appropriately into the end of the barrel adjuster and
“C” Clip Rotating Rod check for any kinks or damage.
Caliper
Mounting Slide the exposed brake cable through the rotating rod located
Bolt with on the caliper body and seat the housing into the same stop.
spacers Insert the cable into the spring and spring boot.
Actuating Arm
Next, slide the cable through the cable anchor and pull all the
slack out. Secure the cable in place by tightening the bolts that
comprise the anchor assembly. Some disc brakes will have a
centering devise while others are a free-floating mechanism. If
Brake Pads
your caliper body is equipped with centering bolts, apply the
brake lever after the cable has been connected. While engaging
the lever, tighten the centering bolts securely. This will center
Caliper
the caliper body on the disc.
Mounting
Bolt with Cable Anchor DISC GETS HOT! Severe injury could result from
spacers Bolt contact with the hot disc! Mind your legs, as well
as your hands.
35
 Hub Centering Bolt
Fork Leg
Disc Mounting
Bolts

Brake Cable
Housing

Rotating
Rod

Caliper
Body

Disc Cable Boot

with Spring
inside

Centering Bolt (inside)

Actuating
Arm Cable Anchor
Bolt

Fork Drop Out

Quick Release Caliper Mounting

lever Bolts with spacers

These brakes require breaking in! Ride and use the brakes gently for 13
miles before using the brakes in downhill conditions, for sudden stops, or
any other serious braking. Please be aware that your brake system will
change in performance throughout the wear-in process. The disc brake
should be cleaned before the first ride using rubbing alcohol. NEVER use oil
or similar products to clean your disc brake system.
36
 Derailleur
Freewheel Outer side of Top Gear Although the front and rear derailleurs are initially adjusted at
Pulley Adjustment
the factory, you will need to inspect and readjust both before
Screw riding the bicycle.

Rear Derailleur
Begin by shifting the rear shifter to largest number indicated,
disconnect the cable from the rear derailleur cable anchor bolt,
and place the chain on the smallest sprocket.
Guide Pulley
Adjust the High limit screw so the guide pulley and the
smallest sprocket are lined up vertically. Reconnect the cable,
pull out any slack, and retighten the anchor bolt securely. Shift
Adjustment through the gears, making sure each gear achieved is done
Screws quietly and without hesitation. If necessary, use the barrel
adjuster to fine tune each gear by turning it the direction you
Tension Pulley
want the chain to go. For example, turning clockwise will
SIS Cable Adjuster
loosen the cable tension and move the chain away from the
wheel, while turning counter-clockwise will tighten cable
tension and direct the chain towards the wheel. Shift the rear
shifter to the gear one and place the chain on the largest cog.
High Gear Adjust the Low limit screw in quarter turn increments until the
Adjustment Screw guide pulley and the largest cog are aligned vertically. Again,
Low Gear
shift through each gear several times, checking that each gear
H
Adjustment is achieved smoothly. It may take several attempts before the
Screw rear derailleur and cable is adjusted properly.
L

Ensure all bolts are secured tightly and the chain

does not fall off in either direction.
Barrel
Adjuster

Rear Derailleur Side View

37
 Front Derailleur
Low Adjusting Screw Shift both shifters to the smallest number indicated and place
High Adjusting the chain on the corresponding cog and chainwheel. Discon-
Cable Anchor Bolt
Screw nect the front derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt.
Check the position of the front derailleur; it should be parallel with
the outer chainwheel and clear the largest chainwheel by 3-
Chainguide
5mm when fully engaged.
Outer Chainguide clearance of With the chain on the smallest chainwheel in front and the
1-3mm largest cog in back, adjust the Low limit screw so the chain is
Inner Chainguard centered in the front derailleur cage. Reconnect the cable, pull
any slack out, and tighten the anchor bolt securely. Shift the
front shifter to the largest chainwheel. If the chain does not go
onto the largest chainwheel, turn the high limit screw in 1/4 turn
increments counter-clockwise until the chain engages the largest
chainwheel. If the chain falls off the largest chainwheel, and
into the pedals, you will need to turn the High limit screw in 1/4
turn increments clockwise until the chain no longer falls off.
Shift through every gear, using the barrel adjusters to fine tune
each transition. The barrel adjuster for the front derailleur is
located on the front shifter where the cable comes out of the
shifter. Clockwise will loosen the cable tension and direct the
chain closer to the frame while counter-clockwise will tighten
the cable tension and direct the chain away from the frame.

Do not ride a bicycle that is not shifting prop-

erly. Overlooking proper adjustments may
cause irreparable damage to the bicycle and/or
bodily injury. Never move the shifter while
pedaling backward, nor pedal backwards
after having moved the shifter. This could
jam the chain and cause serious damage to
the bicycle and/or rider.
38
 Dual Suspension
Dual Suspension bikes (DS) are equipped with a front fork as
well as a rear suspension generally located below the seat.
The piston works in conjunction with a spring to allow the bike
to rotate on a pivot point. Ensure all attaching hardware is
secured and there is no lateral movement of the rear triangle.
The amount of Rear Suspension travel can be adjusted by
turning the adjusting plate. Clockwise will increase spring
tension and decrease travel, while turning counter-clockwise
will decrease spring tension and increase travel. There are
many different types of suspension systems-too many to deal
with individually in this manual.

There must be enough tension on the spring to hold

the spring plate in place. Failure to do this may cause
the mechanism to fail. Failure to maintain, check and
properly adjust the suspension system may result in
suspension malfunction, which can cause you to lose
control and fall. Changing suspension adjustment can
Spring change the handling and braking characteristics of
Spring plate
you bicycle. Never change suspension adjustment
unless you are thoroughly familiar with the suspen-
Anchor bolt sion system, manufacturer’s instructions and recom-
mendations, and always check for changes in the per-
formance of your bicycle by taking a careful test ride
in a hazard free area. If your bike has suspension
equipment, the increased speed you may develop also
increases your risk. When braking, the front of a sus-
pended bike dips. You could lose control and fall if
Adjusting plate your skill is not up to handling this system. Get to
know how to handle your suspension system safely
Piston before trying any downhill or very fast biking.

39
 3 2
Rear Pivots
1 The pivot assembly is a simple mechanism that allows
the rear triangle to move up and down in combination
with a rear suspension. Size, shape, and compounds will
vary between models; however, operating principles are
1. Attaching Bolt the same. A shaft will pivot inside of two bushings
2. Bushing secured in place with bolts. Pivots should be kept clean
3. Shaft and free from grime and should be disassembled and re-
2 greased at least once every riding season. Please note
1 3
the drive side crank arm must be removed from the spin-
dle before attempting to work on the pivot. Some models
have two, small (2.5mm) Allen bolts on the underside of
the bottom bracket shell. These must be removed before
attempting to disassemble the pivot. After disassembling
and cleaning, the shaft of the pivot assembly should be
lightly coated with lithium-based grease, as well as the
bushings and the threads of the attaching hardware.
Please remember: Never use WD-40 to grease compo-
nents. It is a degreaser that will not provide required
lubrication and has a tendency to attract dust.
1

1. Pivot Assembly
2. Bottom Bracket Cup & Lockring
3. Rear Triangle

40
 Accessories
Saddle Bag If your bike is supplied with a water bottle and cage, attach the
cage to the bicycle using the Allen bolts provided.
Frame Bag Most bikes come equipped with a saddle bag or frame bag.
The saddle bag installs under the seat with the zipper facing
Reflector
Reflector the rear wheel. Undo the straps that wrap around the bag,
thread them through the rails underneath the seat and secure
around the bag. The smaller strap wraps around the seat post.
Frame bags install at the apex of the top and seat tubes.
Secure the straps around each tube.
NOTE: The frame bag straps must not bind the cables. The
straps must go around the frame only.

Other: Some 20” and 24” model bicycles come with a rear
Reflector Water bottle and cage derailleur guard to protect the rear derailleur from damage. To
install, remove the the rear wheel axle nut on the drive side,
install the rear derailleur guard over the axle with the U-shaped
guard pointing down, and retighten the axle nut. The guard will
sit between the frame and the axle nut.

Reflectors
Tighten both rear wheel axle nuts or the Attach the white reflector to the front reflector bracket and
quick release mechanism securely. Failure secure to the fork using the hardware provided. Attach the red
to do this may cause the rear wheel to reflector to the rear reflector bracket and secure to the frame
dislodge from the frame dropouts resulting or seat post, depending on the bracket style, with the hardware
provided.
in serious damage or injury.

41
Final Check
- After all adjustments have been made, shift through every
gear several times at varying speeds. This will ensure all
your adjustments are correct and will allow you to pinpoint
any trouble areas. If you encounter any problems, refer to
the appropriate section and make any necessary adjustments.

- Check the tire pressure and inflate each tube to the recommended
psi as stated on the sidewall of the tire.

- Check that the kickstand operates smoothly and the

kickstand bolt is secured tightly.

- Finally, examine the bicycle. Make sure all accessories are

attached and all quick releases, nuts and bolts have been
tightened securely.

- Correct maintenance of your bicycle will ensure many years

of happy riding. Service your bicycle regularly by referring
to the relevant sections of this manual, OR take it to a
professional bicycle shop.

Remember: Always wear a helmet and obey all

traffic laws.

Never inflate a tire beyond the maximum pres-

sure marked on the tire’s sidewall. Exceeding
the recommended pressure may blow the tire
off the rim, which could cause damage to the
bicycle and injury to the rider and bystanders.

42
 SINGLE SPEED & BMX
Includes 16" and 20" BMX Bikes Foreword: Assembling a bicycle is an important responsibility. Proper
Assembly is the same for boy’s and girl’s bikes. assembly not only gives the rider more enjoyment of the bicycle; it
also offers an important measure of safety.

Getting Started
Open the carton from the top and remove the bicycle. Remove the
straps and protective wrapping from the bicycle. Inspect the bicycle and
all accessories and parts for possible shortages. It is recommended that
the threads and all moving parts in the parts package be lubricated prior to
installation. Do not discard packing materials until assembly is complete
to insure that no required parts are accidentally discarded. Assemble
your bicycle following the steps that pertain to your model.

Note: Your bicycle may be equipped with different style components

than the ones illustrated.
Stem Cap Binder Bolts
Handlebars
Remove the protective cap from the stem wedge and loosen the stem
bolt using the 6mm Allen key. Some models may use a 13mm
Stem hexagonal bolt instead of an Allen key bolt. Place the handlebar stem
Bolt
into the head tube, observing the minimum insertion mark on the
handlebar stem and ensuring that all cables are free of tangles. Check
that the fork and the handlebar are facing forward, and that they are
properly aligned with the front wheel. Tighten the stem bolt. Rotate the
Minimum handlebar to the desired position and tighten the Stem Cap Binder Bolts
Insertion Mark
securely using a 5mm Allen key. You must alternate tightening each bolt
until all bolts are secured and the stem plate evenly clamps the handlebar.
Stem Wedge
Head The handlebar must be inserted so that the minimum insertion
Tube mark cannot be seen.
Warning: Over tightening the stem bolt or headset assembly may
43 cause damage to the bicycle and/or injury to the rider.
Seat
Loosen nut on the seat clamp and add 3 or 4 drops of oil onto the threads
of the bolt. Place the smaller end of the seat post into the seat clamp
until it stops with the bolt to the rear of the seat post. Thread the nut on
the seat clamp loosely. Insert the larger end of the seat post into the seat
tube of the bicycle frame observing the minimum insertion mark on the
seat post. Position the top surface of the seat parallel with the ground.
The serrations on the seat clamp must mesh completely with the seat
frame serrations, push the front of the seat up and down to align the serrations.
Securely tighten the seat clamp. Securely tighten the bolts on the seat
post clamp. Turn the bicycle upside down and rest it on the seat and
handlebars.

The seat pillar must be inserted so that the minimum

insertion mark cannot be seen.

Pedals & Crank Set

Look for the letters “R” for right, and “L” for left, stamped on each pedal spindle.
Start each pedal spindle by hand to avoid stripping the threads. Tighten with a
15mm narrow open ended wrench. Note that the right hand pedal attaches to
the chainwheel side crank arm with a right-hand (clockwise) thread. The left
pedal attaches to the other crank arm and has a left-hand (counter-clockwise)
thread. It is very important that you check the crank set for correct adjustment
and tightness before riding your bicycle. New cranks may become loose with
initial use, refer to p. 73-76 for proper crank set adjustment and maintenance.
Once the pedals have been attached, check that the crank arm rotates
smoothly and that there is no lateral movement.

Attachment of an incorrect pedal into a crank arm will

cause irreparable damage.
44
 Front Wheel
Axle Nut 1. Make sure the brakes are loose enough to allow the wheel to
Axle pass through the brake pads easily.
Hub 2. Place wheel into fork drop outs.
3. Install retaining washers with raised lip pointed towards the fork,
and insert into the small hole of the fork blade.
4. Install axle nut and tighten. Make sure the wheel is centered
between the fork blades.
5. Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered and clears the
brake shoes. Tighten the brakes if necessary.
Retaining
6. Turn the bicycle upright using the kickstand to support it.
Cone Nuts
Washer
Fork Drop Out It is very important to check the front wheel
connection to the bicycle. Failure to properly tighten
may cause the front wheel to dislodge.

Front Brake
Brake Lever
Determine which type of brake your bike is equipped with and refer to
Nipple
Ferrule the appropriate assembly instructions. For more information on brake
adjustment and maintenance, refer to p. 68-71. A greater force is
required to activate the rear brake due to longer cable length. It is
advisable to mount the rear brake on the side of the stronger hand. It
is important to become familiar with the use of hand brakes. When
properly adjusted, hand brakes are an efficient braking system. Keep
the rim and brake shoes clean and free from wax, lubricants and dirt
at all times. Keep brakes properly adjusted and in good working
condition at all times.

Cable
Open the brake lever and place the nipple end of the short brake
Adjusting cable into the lever, then close the lever. Secure the ferrule against
Barrel the lever using the cable adjusting barrel.
Grip Handlebar

45
Side Pull Cable Side Pull Brake
Brakes Adjusting Loosen the cable anchor nut and thread the brake cable through it.
Barrel Tighten the nut by hand until it holds the cable in place. Squeeze the
Center Bolt brake arms together against the rim of the wheel. Loosen the nuts on
Brake the brake shoes and turn until they match the angle of the rim. Tight-
Arm en the nuts securely. Pull down on the end of the brake cable with pli-
Cable
ers, hold taut and securely tighten the cable anchor nut.
Anchor Spin the wheel, the brake shoes should not contact the rim at any
Fixing Nut
in Back
Nut point and should be an equal distance from the rim on both sides.
Make sure all nuts and bolts are securely tightened. Test the brake
levers 20-25 times to take care of any initial cable stretch. Be sure to
tightly secure the brake fixing nut behind the fork.
Brake Shoe

When assembling or adjusting the brakes, make

Cantilever 1. Install the cable into sure the cable anchor is tight. Failure to securely
Brakes the cable carrier. tighten the nut could result in brake failure and
personal injury.

Cable
End Cantilever Brakes - Utilizing a Link Wire
If fitted with cantilever type brakes, insert the brake cable into the link
wire lead, and notch the cable end into the slot of the left brake arm.
Loosen the anchor bolt on the right brake arm and slide the brake
cable under the tabbed washer. Squeeze both brake arms together so
the brake shoes hit the rim, pull all slack out of the brake cable, and
2. Set the cable onto
the straddle holder. 1
2
tighten the anchor bolt. With the cable fitted, the straddle holder
should sit 10-20mm above the reflector bracket. Adjust the brake
shoes using a 10mm wrench so that they are parallel with the rim and
are positioned 1-2mm away from the rim. Several adjustments may
be necessary to achieve the correct brake position.

46
 3. Temporarily tighten the cable so 5. Secure one of the shoes at a time.
that the link wire is at the position in The adjustment of the shoe clearance is
the illustration. not necessary at this time.
Shoe fixing nut tightening torque:
Link Wire 7.84 - 8.82 Nm (70 - 78 in. lbs.)

10 mm wrench
To u c h i n g
5 mm Allen key
Cable Anchor Bolt

Spring tension
adjustment screw 1 mm

6. If balance adjustment is necessary,

Cable Casing Holder adjust with the spring tension
adjustment screw.

1 2 Cut off any unnecessary

4. Turn the spring tension
cable, attach an end cap,
adjustment screw so that the link
and hook it onto the
wire comes to a position directly
1 2 notched part of the nut
below the cable casing holder.
which secures the shoe.

End cap

2 1

2 1

47
 V - Brake 2. While holding the shoe against the rim, adjust the
amount of shoe protrusion by interchanging the
1. If fitted with V-Brakes, insert the brake body into position of the B washers (i.e. 6 mm or 3 mm) so that
the center spring hole in the frame mounting dimension A is kept at 39 mm or more.
boss, and then secure the brake body to the
frame with the link fixing bolt.
39 mm or more
A

5 mm Allen key

3 mm washer B 6 mm washer B

Shoe fixing nut

Washer

Link
Spring
fixing
hole
bolt Washer
Washer A
Washer A
Stopper pin Shoe fixing link

48
 3. While holding the shoe against 5. Adjust the balance with the spring
the rim, tighten the shoe fixing nut. tension adjustment screws.

5 mm Allen key 1 mm 1 mm
1 mm

Spring tension Spring tension

adjustment screw adjustment screw

4. Pass the inner cable through the inner 6. Depress the brake lever about 10 times as
cable lead. Set the cable with a clearance far as the grip and check that everything is
of 1mm between each brake pad and the operating correctly and that the shoe clearance
rim, tighten the cable fixing bolt. is correct before using the brakes.

Depress about
10 times

5 mm Allen key

B C

B + C = 2 mm

49
Straddle Cantilever Brakes - Utilizing a Straddle Cable
Cable The length of the straddle cable, the height of the straddle hanger, and
Brake Brake Cable the brake pad-to-caliper arm position all have an effect on braking
Straddle Hanger power. Generally, the straddle cable bridge is set low and close to the
Pinch Bolt tire for maximum braking force. The straddle cable should be high
Straddle Cable enough, however, to adequately clear the tire (and any debris that
may stick to the tire) or to fit over the front reflector hanger. In the
event of brake cable failure, the front reflector hanger would prevent
90o the straddle cable from catching in the tire and locking up the front
wheel. The straddle cable length (when adjustable) is set to transfer
as much force to the brake pads as possible. For the most efficient
transfer of force, the straddle cable and the line between the
Cable cantilever pivot and the cable anchor should form a right angle (90
Anchor
degrees). If the force is not at a right angle, part of the force gets
Pivot Caliper Arm wasted in pulling on the brake post, which has no effect on braking.

Brake pad aligned with the rim surface Pad and rim should be parallel. Direction of rim
rotation

1- 2 mm

0.5 - 1.0 mm

50
 Check your Brakes
Press each brake lever to make sure that there is no binding and that the brake pads press hard enough on the rims to stop
the bike. The brake pads should be adjusted so they are 1mm to 2 mm away from the rim when the brakes are not applied.
Brake pads should be centered on the rim and the rear portion of each brake pad should be about 0.5 - 1.0 mm farther from
the rim than the front portion of the brake pad.

Do not ride the bicycle until the brakes are functioning properly. To
test, apply the brakes while trying to push the bike forward to make
sure they will stop the bicycle.

Training Wheels
1. Position a washer on the shoulder bolt. Insert the
shoulder bolt through the wheel. Follow with another
Stabilizer Bracket flat washer then completely thread a nut on the
shoulder bolt.
Axle Nut

2. Insert the shoulder bolt through the brace. Set the

Brace “star” washer on the shoulder bolt. Lock into place by
screwing another nut onto the shoulder bolt.
Training Wheel

Washer 3. Remove the nut and washer from the rear wheel axle.
Align stabilizer bracket onto the brace. Align brace and
Shoulder stabilizer bracket on the wheel axle. Replace the axle
Bolt
nut and washer, secure tightly. The elongated hole on
the brace allows for raising or lowering the training
Nut wheel to the proper height.
Star Washer

Nut

Washer

51
Rotors to set the bearing for maximum travel. The bearing should
Some freestyle BMX bicycles come equipped with a detangler be as far down as it can go without resting on the lower
system that will allow the handlebar to spin 360-degrees plate or the adjusting barrels screwed into the lower plate.
without binding the cables. It is very important that this system 3. Use the adjusting barrels that are screwed into the
is adjusted correctly. Installation should only be done by a upper plate to make the bearing parallel to the upper
qualified bicycle mechanic with the correct tools. plate. Use a 10mm wrench to tighten the locknut on the
Upper Cable left adjusting barrel of the upper cable. Leave the right
1. First connect the barrel end of the upper cable to the adjusting barrel loose.
rear brake lever. Make sure the long cable casing is on 4. Screw the lower cable adjusting barrel into (or out of)
top of the short cable casing; otherwise, the upper cable the lower plate until they are as close to the bearing as
will have a twist in it. they can get without touching it.
2. Route the upper cable through the handlebars (below 5. Screw the cable adjuster on the upper cable splitter out
the crossbar) with the short cable casing on the same until all slack is removed from the upper cable. Then
side as the rear brake lever. screw the cable adjuster out one more turn to raise the
3. Connect the upper cable to the upper plate by passing bearing an additional 1mm away from the lower cable
the football ends of the upper cable through the threaded adjusting barrels.
holes in the upper plate and connecting them to the bearing. CAUTION: Don’t screw the cable adjuster on the upper
4. Screw the adjusting barrels into the upper plate. Don’t cable splitter out more than 8mm. Use the cable adjuster
tighten the locknuts at this time. on the rear brake lever if more adjustment is needed.
Lower Cable 6. Check for bearing flop by placing the handlebars in the
1. Slide the cable casing through the cable guide on the frame. normal riding position, then quickly rotate the handlebars
2. Connect the lower cable to the lower plate by passing back and forth. Perform the following steps to eliminate
the football ends of the lower cable through the threaded bearing flop.
holes in the lower plate and connecting them to the bearing. NOTE: The bearing should never be allowed to rest on
3. Screw the adjusting barrels into the lower plate. Don’t the lower plate or lower cable adjusting barrels.
tighten the locknuts at this time. a) Screw the lower cable adjusting barrels out of (or
4. Connect the lower cable to the rear brake. Don’t adjust into) the lower plate until all bearing flop is eliminated.
the rear brake at this time. b) Tighten the locknut of the right adjusting barrel on the
NOTE: Check to make sure all 11 cable casing ends on lower cable.
the upper and lower cables are seated correctly, and that c) Rotate the handlebars 180 degrees and recheck for
the spring tension of the rear brake is pulling the bearing down. bearing flop. If there is any bearing flop, use the
Adjustment “loose” adjusting barrels on the upper and lower cable to
1. Screw the cable adjusters on the rear brake lever and the remove it.
upper cable splitter all the way in. d) Repeat steps (6a) and (6c) until the handlebars can be
2. Screw the adjusting barrels in the upper plate in (or out) rotated 360 degrees without any bearing flop.
7. Finish adjusting the rear brakes. 52
 Failure to adjust correctly may result in
loss of braking power and personal injury.

Single Cable Casing

Cable Adjuster
Cable Splitter

Upper Cable
Barrel End (long casing)

Upper Cable
(short casing)

Adjusting Barrel

Locknut
Upper Plate
Set for Max. Travel
37mm + or - 1mm Keyed Washer

Bearing
Minimum 1mm (1/32”)
Football Ends
Lower Plate
Locknut
Adjusting Barrel
Lower Cable

53
 Final Check
Pads Install any additional parts that are supplied with your bike.
NOTE: Your bicycle may be equipped with different style
components than the ones illustrated.
Reflectors: Attach the white reflector to the front bracket and
the red reflector to the rear bracket using an 8mm wrench or a
Phillips head screwdriver. Attach the brackets to the bicycle
using the hardware provided. For some models, the front reflector
bracket will be mounted on the front brake assembly bolt that
fits through the fork. It is important to make sure all connections
are tightened securely and that the reflectors are properly
angled.
Pads: If your bike is supplied with pads, wrap the foam inner
cushion around the appropriate bar. Place the outer cover over
the inner cushion and press the velcro together securely. Turn
the pad so the velcro faces the ground.
Chainguards: If not already attached, attach the chainguard to
the bicycle frame using the clamps provided. Secure in place
making sure the guard does not bind or get caught on the
chain.
Rear Front Tire Pressure: Check tire pressure, inflate to the range
Reflector Reflector
(White)
recommended on the tire sidewalls.
(Red)
Pegs: There are many different types of pegs-too many to deal
with individually in this manual. Please see your dealer for spe-
cific information regarding peg installation.

Before riding, ensure all nuts, bolts and fittings

on the bicycle have been correctly tightened.

Chainguard

54
 Correct routine maintenance of your new bike will ensure:
Smooth running - Longer lasting components - Safer riding - Lower running costs

Every time you ride your bicycle, its condition changes. The more you ride, the more frequently maintenance will be
required. We recommend you spend a little time on regular maintenance tasks. The following schedules are a useful guide
and by referring to Part 5 of this manual, you should be able to accomplish most tasks. If you require assistance, we
PART 4 - SERVICING

recommend you see a bicycle specialist.

Schedule 1 - Lubrication
Frequency Component Lubricant How to Lubricate
Weekly chain chain lube or light oil brush on or squirt
derailleur wheels chain lube or light oil brush on or squirt
derailleurs oil oil can
brake calipers oil 3 drops from oil can
brake levers oil 2 drops from oil can
Monthly shift levers lithium based grease disassemble

Every Six Months freewheel oil 2 squirts from oil can

brake cables lithium based grease disassemble
Yearly bottom bracket lithium based grease disassemble
pedals lithium based grease disassemble
derailleur cables lithium based grease disassemble
wheel bearings lithium based grease disassemble
headset lithium based grease disassemble
seat pillar lithium based grease disassemble

Note: The frequency of maintenance should increase with lots of usage and use in wet or dusty conditions. Do not over
lubricate - remove excess lubricant to prevent dirt build up. Never use a degreaser to lubricate your chain (WD-40)
55
Schedule 2 - Service Checklist

Frequency Task Page Reference

Before every ride Check tire pressure 55
Check brake operation 66-69
Check wheels for loose spokes 54
Make sure nothing is loose 54
After every ride Quick wipe down with damp cloth 16-17
Weekly Lubrication as per schedule 1 51
Monthly Lubrication as per schedule 1 51
Check derailleur adjustment 79-81
Check brake adjustment 66-69
Check brake and gear cable adjustment 61,66
Check tire wear and pressure 55
Check wheels are true and spokes tight 54
Check hub, head set and crank bearings for looseness 56,62,73
Check pedals are tight 70
Check handlebars are tight 58-59
Check seat and seat post are tight and comfortably adjusted 64
Check frame and fork for trueness 63
Check all nuts and bolts are tight
Every Six Months Lubrication as per schedule 1 51
Check all points as per monthly service 52
Check and replace brake pads, if required 69
Check chain for excess play or wear 76
Yearly Lubrication as per schedule 1 51
56
 Tools Required
1. Open ended wrench or ring
wrenches: 8mm, 9mm, 10mm,
12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm
2. Open end or pedal wrench 15mm
3. Allen key wrenches: 4mm, 5mm,
6mm, 8mm
4. Adjustable wrench
5. Standard flat head screwdriver
6. Standard Phillips head screwdriver
7. Standard slip joint pliers
8. Tire pump
9 Tube repair kit
10. Tire levers

Travel Tools
1. Spare Tube
2. Patch kit
3. Pump
4. Tire levers
5. Multi-tool
6. Change (phone call)

57
WHEELS AND TIRES

Wheel Inspection
It is most important that wheels are kept in top condition. Properly maintaining your bicycle's wheels will help braking
performance and stability when riding. Be aware of the following potential problems:

PART 5 - DETAILED MAINTENANCE

•Dirty or greasy rims:
Caution: These can render your brakes ineffective. Do not clean them with oily or greasy materials. When
cleaning, use a clean rag or wash with soapy water, rinse and air dry. Don't ride while they're wet.
When lubricating your bicycle, don't get oil on the rim braking surfaces.

•Wheels not straight:

Lift each wheel off the ground and spin them to see if they are crooked or out of round. If wheels are not straight, they
will need to be adjusted. This is quite difficult and is best left to a bicycle specialist.

•Broken or loose spokes:

Check that all spokes are tight and that none are missing or damaged.
Caution: Such damage can result in severe instability and possibly an accident if not corrected.
Again, spoke repairs are best handled by a specialist.

•Loose hub bearings:

Lift each wheel off the ground and try to move the wheel from side to side.
Caution: If there is movement between the axle and the hub, do not ride the bicycle. Adjustment is required.

•Axle nuts:
Check that these are tight before each ride.

•Quick release:
Check that these are set to the closed position and are properly tensioned before each ride.
Caution: Maintain the closed position and the correct adjustment. Failure to do so may result in serious injury.

58
 Tire Inspection
Tires must be maintained properly to ensure road holding and stability. Check the following areas:

Inflation: Ensure tires are inflated to the pressure indicated on the tire sidewalls. It is better to use a tire gauge
and a hand pump than a service station pump.
Caution: If inflating tires with a service station pump, take care that sudden over inflation does not cause
tire to blow up.

Bead
Seating: When inflating or refitting tire, make sure that the bead is properly seated in the rim.

Tread: Check that the tread shows no signs of excessive wear or flat spots, and that there are no cuts or other damage.
Caution: Excessively worn or damaged tires should be replaced.

Valves: Make sure valve caps are fitted and that valves are free from dirt. A slow leak caused by the entry of the dirt can
lead to a flat tire, and possibly a dangerous situation.

Recommended Tire pressures:

The recommended pressure molded on the sidewall of your bicycle tires should match the following chart.
Use this as a general guide.

BMX 35-50 p.s.i.

MTB 40-65 p.s.i.
Road Touring 70-90 p.s.i.
Road Racing 110-125 p.s.i.
Hybrid/Crossbike 60-100 p.s.i.

59
 Ball Bearings Hub Bearing Adjustment
Lock Bearing When checked, the hub bearings of either wheel will require
Washer
Hub Body
Cone adjustment if there is any more than slight side play.

1. Check to make sure neither locknut is loose.

2. To adjust, remove wheel from bicycle and loosen the locknut on
one side of the hub while holding the bearing cone on the same
side with a flat open end wrench.
Axle
3. Rotate the adjusting cone as needed to eliminate free play.
Lock Nut Washer 4. Re-tighten the locknut while holding the adjusting cone in position.
Axle Nut 5. Re-check that the wheel can turn freely without excessive side play.

How To Fix a Flat Tire

If you need to repair a tire, follow these steps:

1. Remove the wheel from the bicycle.

Push tire bead
into the center 2. Deflate the tire completely via the valve.
of the rim. Loosen the tire bead by pushing it inward all the way around.
3. Press one side of the tire bead up over the edge of the rim.
Note: Use tire levers, not a screwdriver, otherwise you may
damage the rim.
4. Remove the tube, leaving the tire on the rim.
5. Locate the leaks and patch using a tube repair kit, carefully
following the instructions, or replace the tube.
Note: Ensure that the replacement tube size matches the size
stated on the tire sidewall and that the valve is the correct type
for your bicycle.

60
 6. Match the position of the leak in the tube with the tire to locate the possible
cause and mark the location on the tire.

7. Remove the tire completely and inspect for a nail, glass, etc. and remove if
located. Also inspect the inside of the rim to ensure there are no protruding
spokes, rust or other potential causes. Replace the rim tape which covers the
spoke ends, if damaged.

8. Remount one side of the tire onto the rim.

Remove tire bead from the rim. 9. Using a hand pump, inflate the tube just enough to give it some shape.

10. Place the valve stem through the hole in the rim and work the tube into the
tire. Note: Do not let it twist.

11. Using your hands only, remount the other side of the tire by pushing the edge
toward the center of the rim. Start on either side of the valve and work around
the rim.

12. Before the tire is completely mounted, push the valve up into the rim to make
sure the tire can sit squarely in position.

13. Fit the rest of the tire, rolling the last, most difficult part on using your thumbs.
Note: Avoid using tire levers as these can easily puncture the tube or damage
Pull tire back onto the rim. the tire.

14. Check that the tube is not caught between the rim and the tire bead at any point.

15. Using a hand pump, inflate the tube until the tire begins to take shape, and check
that the tire bead is evenly seated all the way around the rim. When properly
seated, fully inflate the tire to the pressure marked on the sidewall. Use a tire air
pressure gauge to check.

16. Replace the wheel into the frame checking that all gears, brakes and quick
release levers are properly adjusted.
61
 HANDLEBARS AND STEM

Handlebar Stem
The handlebar stem fits into the steering column and is held firm by
the action of a binder bolt and expander wedge which, when tightened,
binds with the inside of the fork steerer tube.
When removing the stem, loosen the stem bolt two or three turns,
Max. Height/ then give it a tap to loosen the wedge inside.
Minimum Insertion Lubricate by first wiping off any old grease and grime, then applying a
Mark
thin film of grease to the part, including the wedge, that will be inserted
into the frame.
The height of the handlebar can be adjusted to suit your
comfort preference.
If the stem is removed from the steering column, you will notice a
mark about 65mm up from the bottom with the words “max. height” or
“minimum insertion".

Handlebar Clamp Bolts Never ride a bicycle if the stem has

Handlebar Binder Bolt
been raised so that the max. height/
minimum insertion line can be seen.

Stem Bolt
Warning: Over tightening the stem
bolt or headset assembly may cause
Max. Height/ damage to the bicycle and/or injury
Min. Insertion Mark to the rider.
Stem Bolt Wedge

62
 When re-fitting the stem, make sure the handlebars are correctly
Grip aligned and tightened using the appropriate hex wrench or allen key.
Do not over tighten.
Test the security of the handlebar within the stem, and the stem
Stem Bolt within the fork steerer tube, by clamping the front wheel between your
Handlebar
knees and trying to move the handlebar up and down, and from side
Handlebar Stem
to side. The handlebar should not move when applying turning pressure.
Stem Bolt Wedge

MTB Handlebar Assembly Handlebars

The exact positioning of the handlebar is a matter of personal
comfort. For MTB bicycles, the bar should be approximately
Make sure
horizontal, with the ends pointing back and slightly up. On BMX
handlebars and bicycles, the handlebar should remain in an approximately upright
fork are facing position but can be angled back or forward slightly for comfort. On
forward MTB and racing style bicycles, the handlebar is usually tightened in
Note, curved rake of the stem by a single allen key bolt or hexagonal bolt. On BMX style
fork faces forward bicycles there may be four clamping bolts.

Make sure, when setting the handlebars in the fork, that the curved
rake of the fork is angled to the front of the bicycle.
Please note that if you need to replace the forks in your bicycle at any
time, the replacement forks must have the same rake and the same
tube inner diameter as those originally fitted to the bicycle.

Never ride unless the handlebar clamping

mechanism has been securely tightened.

63
 Grip 7/8” Plastic Washers

Barrel Adjuster Cable

GRIP SHIFTERS

Grip Shift - Installation

1. Slide front Grip Shift assembly over left side of handlebar leaving proper clearance for handlebar grip.
If necessary, move the brake lever to accommodate Grip Shift and handlebar grip.
2. Rotate assembly until cable exits beneath brake lever with adequate clearance for brake lever movement.
3. Firmly tighten recessed clamp screw. Installation torque should be 20 in.-lbs.
4. Slide the two 7/8” plastic washers over handlebar. The washers prevent the grip from interfering with Grip Shift rotation.
5. Slide handlebar grip over handlebar. Thread the cable inner wire through cable housings and frame, and attach to
derailleur. Make sure that the cable is in the V groove at the derailleur attachment bolt. If trimming the cable housing is
necessary, be sure to replace the housing end cap.
6. Adjust indexing.
7. Slide rear Grip Shift over right side of handlebar and repeat steps 2 - 6.
8. Actuate front and rear brake levers to be certain of proper operation. If Grip Shift interferes with brake lever movement,
rotate brake lever or Grip Shift. Check for proper brake lever operation again.

64
 Cables and Cable Housing
Cables and housing are one of the most overlooked
parts on the bicycle. The first indication that your
cables and housing need to be replaced is an
increased amount of pressure needed to operate the
brakes or shifters. Before every ride, check that there
are no kinks or frays in the cables and housing. Also
check that the housing is seated properly into each
cable stop of the bicycle. It is recommended
that the cables and housing are replaced at least good cable kink
every riding season to prolong the life of your bike.

Do not ride a bicycle that is not

operating properly.

fray

65
HEADSET
Standard Headset
Inspection
The headset bearing adjustment should be checked every month.
Lock Nut
This is important as it is the headset which locks the fork into the
frame, and if loose, can cause damage or result in an accident.
While standing over the frame top tube with both feet on the ground,
Lock Washer
apply the front brake firmly and rock the bicycle back and forth; if you
detect any looseness in the headset, it will need adjustment. Check
that the headset is not over tight by slowly rotating the fork to the right
and left. If the fork tends to stick or bind at any point, the bearings Adjusting Cup/Cone
are too tight.

Note: If your bike is equipped with a threadless headset, please see Ball Retainer
a qualified specialist for repairs and adjustments.

Adjustment
Loosen the headset top locknut or remove it completely along with the Top Head Cup
reflector bracket, if fitted. Turn the adjusting cup clockwise until finger
tight. Replace the lock washer or reflector bracket and re-tighten the
lock nut using a suitable wrench.
Note: Do not over tighten or bearing damage will occur. Bottom Head Cup

Always make sure that the headset is properly Ball Retainer

adjusted and that the headset locknut is fully
tightened before riding.
Crown Race
Warning: Over tightening the stem bolt or headset
assembly may cause damage to the bicycle and/or
injury to the rider.
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 Suspension SUSPENSION FORK
Fork Some fork models differ from the one illustrated. Those models are
not adjustable and require no maintenance other than keeping it free
from dirt and grime.
Sleeves

Seal
RST - Regular Maintenance
The following maintenance should be performed every month (if riding
off-road), or whenever you feel performance is
Slider deteriorating.
Elastomer
Skewer 1. With the fork apart, thoroughly clean all parts.
Elastomer 2. Apply a thin coat of grease to the upper tubes, coil springs, and all
internal bushings.
Top-out
RST - Reassembly
Through-Shaft
1. Slide upper tubes into lower tubes.
Bottom-out
2. Firmly hold lower tube and turn clockwise until it will not turn anymore.
3. Align the brake arch mounts on both lower tubes and install brake arch.
4. Tighten brake arch bolts to 70-80 in.-lbs (8-9.2 Nm).
Drop-Out

Check before each ride:

1. Make sure the headset is properly secured.
2. Make sure the exposed portions of the upper tubes are clean.
3. Make sure the quick releases are properly secured.
4. Make sure the front brake cable housing is properly seated into the
brake cable stop.
5. Check tire clearance and clearance between the top of the front
brake straddle cable carrier and the bottom of the cable stop.
Make sure the front brake cable is routed to the brake cable stop
located on the brake arch. Do not route the cable through the
stem or any other mounts or cable stops.

67
 SADDLE AND SEAT POST

Inspection
The seat fixing bolt and the seat post binder bolt should be checked
for tightness and adjustment every month. On removing the seat post
from the frame, you will notice a mark about 65mm up from the
Seat Fixing Bolt bottom with the words “max. height” or “minimum insertion”.

Micro Adjustable
Seat Post To avoid damage to either the seat post, the frame
Binder Bolt or possibly the rider, a minimum of 65mm of the seat
Seat Post
post must always remain in the frame.

Lubrication
Remove the seat post from the frame and wipe off any grease, rust or
dirt. Then apply a thin film of new grease to the part that will be inserted
into the frame. Re-insert, adjust and tighten the seat post in the frame.

Seat Clamp Nut

Standard
Seat Post

68
 Adjustment
As mentioned in Part 2, the seat can be adjusted in height, angle and distance from the handlebars to suit the
individual rider.
Saddle angle is a matter of personal preference but the most comfortable position will usually be found when the top
of the seat is almost parallel to the ground, or slightly raised at the front.

The saddle can also be adjusted by sliding it forward or back along the mounting rails to obtain the most
comfortable reach to the handlebars.
When fitting, position the seat post into the clamp under the seat and place it in the frame without
tightening. Adjust it to the desired angle and position, and tighten the clamping mechanism.

There are two types of seat clamps commonly in use. The most common employs a steel clamp with hexagonal
nuts on either side to tighten. The other type, known as a micro-adjustable clamp, uses a single vertically mounted
Allen head fixing bolt to tighten. After fixing the seat to the desired position on the post, adjust the height to the
required level and tighten the binder bolt.

Note that the type of binder bolt may be either a hexagonal bolt, an Allen head bolt, or a quick release mechanism.
The operation of a seat post quick release mechanism is the same as for quick release hubs.
Refer to p.22.
Test the security by grasping the seat and trying to turn it sideways. If it moves, you will need to further tighten the
binder bolt.
Note: Remember that the minimum insertion mark must remain inside the frame assembly.

69
BRAKES
The correct adjustment and operation of your bicycle's brakes is extremely important for safe operation. Brakes should be
checked for effective operation before every ride. Frequent checking of adjustment is necessary as the control cables will
stretch and the brake pads will become worn with use.

Never ride a bicycle unless the brakes are functioning properly.

There are two types of hand operated bicycle brakes in common use: sidepull calipers and cantilever calipers. Both utilize
a handlebar mounted lever which controls a cable to operate the brake. Sidepull brakes are mounted to the frame or fork
via a single pivot point. Cantilever brakes use two brake pivot arms, each mounted on separate pivots on either side of the
frame/fork.

Inspection
Brake levers should be checked for tightness at least every three
months. They should be set in a comfortable position within easy
Brake Cable reach of the rider's hands, and must not be able to move on the
handlebar. Some brake levers make use of a reach adjustment
Brake Arm Straddle Cable screw, which can be altered to the distance between the handlebar
grip and the lever, as required. The brake pads should be checked for
correct positioning and tightness before every ride, and the various
bolts and nuts at least every three months. Squeeze each brake lever
to make sure they operate freely and that the brake pads press hard
enough on the rims to stop the bike. There should be about 1mm -
2mm clearance between each pad and the rim when the brakes are
not applied. The brake pads must be properly centered for maximum
contact with the rim. Replace the brake pads if they are over worn so
that the grooves or pattern cannot be seen. The brake cable wires
should be checked for kinks, rust, broken strands or frayed ends. The
outer casing should also be checked for kinks, stretched coils and
Cantilever Brakes other damage. If the cables are damaged, they should be replaced.

70
 Some brakes have a quick release mechanism to allow easier wheel removal. Whenever you adjust the brakes,
make sure the quick release mechanism is in the closed position.

Never ride unless the quick release is firmly locked in the closed position.

Cable Adjusting Barrel Lubrication

The brake lever and brake caliper pivot points should be oiled with
Lock nut
2-3 drops of light oil at least every three months to ensure smooth
operation and to reduce wear. Cables should be greased along
Brake Lever
their entire length, after removing them from their casings, at least
every six months. Always grease new cables before fitting.
Brake Lever Housing

Adjustment - Sidepull Calipers

Minor brake adjustment can be made via the cable
adjusting barrel, usually located at the upper cable arm. To adjust,
squeeze the brake pads against the rim, loosen the lock nut and
Cable Adjusting Barrel
turn the adjuster Brake pad clearance should be a maximum 2mm
Center Bolt from the rim. When correct, re-tighten the lock nut. If the pads
cannot be set close enough to the rim in this manner, you may
Brake Shoe have to adjust the cable length. Screw the barrel adjuster 3/4 of the
Cable
Anchor way in, squeeze the pads against the rim, undo the cable anchor
Bolt bolt and pull the cable through with pliers. Re-tighten the cable
Fixing Nut anchor bolt and apply full force to the brake lever to test, then fine
in Back
tune using the barrel adjuster. If one pad is closer to the rim than
the other, loosen the fixing nut at the back of the brake, apply the
brake to hold it centered, and re-tighten the fixing nut.

Ensure the Brake fixing nut is secured tightly.

Failure to do this may cause the Brake assembly
Side-Pull Brakes to dislodge from the fork.
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 Some brakes have a special mechanism which enables you to set the
clearance on either side of the rim using a screwdriver. Brake pads
should finally be adjusted so that the leading edge of the pad makes
first contact with the rim. Some brakes have special curved washers
to allow this, but on less complex models it will be necessary to apply
a little force to the pad and its mounting.

Adjustment - Cantilever Calipers

Minor brake adjustment can be made via the barrel cable adjusters
which are located on each brake lever. To adjust, squeeze the brake
pads against the rim, loosen the lock nut, and turn the adjuster to pull
the brake pads closer to, or spread them away from the rim as required.
2mm clearance Brake pad clearance should be a maximum 2mm from the rim.
When correct, re-tighten the lock nut.
If the pads cannot be set close enough to the rim in this manner, you
Fully Adjustable Brake Shoes
may have to adjust either the length of the straddle cable or the
Curved
Adjustment
length of the brake cable.
Washer
If the brakes use a separate brake cable and straddle cable, adjust
the straddle length by first screwing the barrel adjuster 3/4 of the way
in, then loosening the straddle cable fixing bolt, then pulling or pushing
the cable through the fixing bolt to adjust the length, and finally
re-tightening the fixing bolt.
Parallel
Curved Check that the straddle bridge is in the middle of the cable to ensure
Adjustment even brake pad contact. Apply full force to the brake lever to test,
Washer
then fine tune using the barrel adjuster.

To adjust the brake cable length, loosen the brake cable fixing bolt on
the cable straddle bridge, adjust the length until the brake shoes are
the correct distance from the rim, then re-tighten and test.
Parallel

72
4. Removing and Installing Bolt-On Wheels
a. Removing a Bolt-On Front Wheel
(1) Open up the brake shoes.
(2) With a 15mm box wrench or a six inch adjustable wrench, loosen the two axle nuts.
(3) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary retention device, disengage it and go to step (4). If your front fork has
an integral seondary retention device, loosen the axle nuts about six full turns; then go to step (4).
(4) Raise the front wheel a few inches off the ground and tap the top of the wheel with the palm of your hand to knock
the wheel out of the fork ends.
b. Installing a Bolt-On Front Wheel
(1) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel between the fork blades so that the axle seats firmly at the
top of the slots which are at the tips of the fork blades. The axle nut washers should be on the outside, between the
fork blade and the axle nut. If your bike has a clip-on type secondary retention device, engage it.
(2) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the slots in the fork dropouts, and at the same time centering the wheel
rim in the fork, use a six-inch adjustable wrench or a 15mm box wrench to tighten the axle nuts as tight as you can.
(3) Close the brake shoes; then spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake
shoes.
c. Removing a Bolt-On Rear Wheel
(1) Open the rear brake shoes.
(2) Shift the rear derailleur to high gear (the smallest rear sprocket) and pull the derailleur body back with your right
hand
(3) With a 15mm box wrench or a six-inch adjustable wrench, loosen the two axle nuts.
(4) Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches and, with the derailleur still pulled back, push the wheel forward and
down until it comes out of the rear dropouts.
d. Installing a Bolt-On Rear Wheel
(1) Shift the rear derailleur to its outermost position and pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.
(2) Put the chain on to the smallest sprocket. Then, insert the wheel into the frame dropouts and pull it all the way in to
the dropouts. The axle nut washers should be on the outside, between the frame and the axle nut.
(3) Tighten the axle nuts as tightly as you can, using a six-inch adjustable wrench or a 15mm box wrench.
(4) Push the rear derailleur back into position.
(5) Close the brake; then spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake shoes.

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 B. Seatpost Quick Release
Many mountain bikes are equipped with quick-release seat post binders. The seatpost quick-release binder works exactly like the wheel
quick-release. While a quick release looks like a long bolt with a lever on one end and a nut on the other, the quick release uses a cam
action to firmly clamp the seat post.

WARNING: Riding with an improperly tightened seat post can allow the saddle to turn or move and cause you to lose control and fall.
Therefore:
1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you know how to correctly clamp your seat post.
2. Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your seat post quick release.
3. Before you ride the bike, first check that the seatpost is securely clamped.

Adjusting the quick release mechanism

The action of the quick release cam squeezes the seat collar around the seat post to hold the seat post securely in place. The amount of
clamping force is controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever from
rotating increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Less
than half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the difference between safe clamping force and unsafe clamping force.

CAUTION: The full force of the cam action is needed to clamp the seatpost securely. Holding the nut with one hand and turning the lever
like a wing nut with the other hand until everything is as tight as you can get it will not clamp the seatpost safely.

CAUTION: If you can fully close the quick release without wrapping your fingers around the fork blade for leverage, and the lever does
not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the tension is insufficient. Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a
quarter turn; then try again.

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C. Brakes
NOTE: For most effective braking, use both brakes and apply them simultaneously.
WARNING: Sudden or excessive application of the front brake may pitch the rider over the handlebars, causing serious injury or death.

1. How brakes work

It’s important to your safety that you instinctively know which brake lever controls which brake on your bike. In the U.S., bikes are
required to be set up with the right brake lever controlling the rear brake, and the left lever controlling the front brake.

The braking action of a bicycle is a function of the friction between the brake surfaces -- usually the brake shoes and the wheel rim. To
make sure that you have maximum friction available, keep your wheel rims and brake shoes clean and free of lubricants, waxes or pol-
ishes.

Make sure that your hands can reach and squeeze the brake levers comfortably. If your hands are too small to operate the levers com-
fortably, consult your dealer before riding the bike. The lever reach may be adjustable; or you may need a different brake lever design.

Most brakes have some form of quick release mechanism to allow the brake shoes to clear the tire when a wheel is removed or rein-
stalled. When the brake quick release is in the open position, the brakes are inoperative. Ask your dealer to make sure that you under-
stand the way the brake quick release works on your bike and check each time to make sure both brakes work correctly before you get
on the bike.

Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just to stop the bike. Maximum braking force for each wheel occurs at the point just
before the wheel “locks up” (stops rotating) and starts to skid. Once the tire skids, you actually lose most of your stopping force and all
directional control. You need to practice slowing and stopping smoothly without locking up a wheel. The technique is called progressive
brake modulation. Instead of jerking the brake lever to the position where you think you’ll generate appropriate braking force, squeeze the
lever, progressively increasing the braking force. If you feel the wheel begin to lock up, release pressure just a little to keep the wheel
rotating just short of lockup. It’s important to develop a feel for the amount of brake lever pressure required for each wheel at different
speeds and on different surfaces. To better understand this, experiment a little by walking your bike and applying different amounts of
pressure to each brake lever, until the wheel locks.
WARNING: Some bicycle brakes, such as linear-pull and disc brakes, are extremely powerful. You should take extra care in becoming
familiar with these brakes and exercise particular care when using them. Applying these brakes too hard or too suddenly can lock up a
wheel, which could cause you to lose control and fall.

96
 When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins to slow, but your body wants to continue at the speed at which it was going. This
causes a transfer of weight to the front wheel (or, under heavy braking, around the front wheel hub, which could send you flying over the
handlebars). A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater brake pressure before lockup; a wheel with less weight will lock up with
less brake pressure. So, as you apply brakes and your weight shifts forward, you need to shift your body toward the rear of the bike, to
transfer weight back on to the rear wheel; and at the same time, you need to both decrease rear braking and increase front braking force.
This is even more important on steep descents, because descents shift weight forward. The keys to effective speed control and safe
stopping are controlling wheel lockup and weight transfer. Practice braking and weight transfer techniques where there is no traffic or
other hazards and distractions.

Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces or in wet weather. Tire adhesion is reduced, so the wheels have less cornering and
braking traction and can lock up with less brake force. Moisture or dirt on the brake shoes reduces their ability to grip. The way to main-
tain control on loose or wet surfaces is to go more slowly to begin with.

2. Adjusting your brakes

If either brake lever on your bike fails the Mechanical Safety Check you can restore brake lever travel by turning the brake cable adjust-
ing barrel counterclockwise, then lock the adjustment in by turning the barrel’s lock nut clockwise as far as it will go. If the lever still fails
the Mechanical Safety Check, or you have any question about whether your brakes are working properly have your dealer check the
brakes.

D. Shifting
Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur drivetrain, an internal gear hub drivetrain or, in some special cases, a combination of the
two.

1. Why all those gears?

You will get the greatest fitness benefit, produce the greatest sustained power and have the greatest endurance if you learn to spin the
pedals at high revolutions per minute(called cadence) against low resistance. You will get the least fitness benefit and have the least
endurance by pushing hard on the pedals against heavy resistance. The purpose of having multiple gears on a bicycle is to let you chose
the gear that allows you to maintain your optimum cadence under the widest range of riding conditions. Depending on your fitness level
and experience (the more fit, the higher the cadence), optimum cadence is between 60 and 90 pedal revolutions per minute.

97
2. Shifting a derailleur drivetrain
If your bicycle has a derailleur drivetrain, the gear-changing mechanism will consist of:
• a rear sprocket cluster, called a freewheel or freewheel cassette
• a rear derailleur
• usually a front derailleur
• one or two shifters
• one or two control cables
• one, two or three front sprockets called chainrings
• a drive chain
The number of possible gear combinations (“speeds”) is the product of multiplying the number of sprockets at the rear of the drivetrain by
the number of sprockets at the front (6 x 2 = 12, 6 x 3 = 18, 7 x 3 = 21 and so on).

a. Shifting Gears
There are many different types of shifter mechanisms, each preferred for specific types of application because of its
ergonomic, performance and price characteristics. The designers of your bike have selected the shifter design which
they believe will give the best results on your bike.

The vocabulary of shifting can be pretty confusing. A downshift is a shift to a “slower” gear, one which is easier to
pedal. An upshift is a shift to a “faster”, harder to pedal gear. What’s confusing is that what’s happening at the front de-
railleur is the opposite of what’s happening at the rear derailleur (for details, read the instructions on Shifting the Rear
Derailleur and Shifting the Front Derailleur below). For example, you can select a gear which will make pedaling easier
on a hill (make a downshift) in one of two ways: shift the chain down the gear “steps” to a smaller gear at the front, or
up the gear “steps” to a larger gear at the rear. So, at the rear gear cluster, what is called a downshift looks like an
upshift. The way to keep things straight is to remember that shifting the chain in towards the centerline of the bike is for
accelerating and climbing and is called a downshift. Moving the chain out or away from the centerline of the bike is for
speed and is called an upshift.

Whether upshifting or downshifting, the bicycle derailleur system design requires that the drive chain be moving forward
and be under at least some tension. A derailleur will shift only if you are pedaling forward.

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 1) Shifting the Rear Derailleur
The rear derailleur is controlled by the right shifter. The function of the rear derailleur is to move the drive chain from one gear to another
on the rear gear cluster, thereby changing gear drive ratios. The smaller sprockets on the gear cluster produce higher gear ratios. Pedal-
ing in the higher gears requires greater pedaling effort, but takes you a greater distance with each revolution of the pedal cranks. The
larger sprockets produce lower gear ratios. Using them requires less pedaling effort, but takes you a shorter distance with each pedal
crank revolution. Moving the chain from a smaller sprocket of the gear cluster to a larger sprocket results in a downshift. Moving the
chain from a larger sprocket to a smaller sprocket results in an upshift. In order for the derailleur to disengage the chain from one sprock-
et and move it on to another, the chain must be moving forward (i.e. the rider must be pedaling forward).

2) Shifting the Front Derailleur:

The front derailleur, which is controlled by the left shifter, shifts the chain between the larger and smaller chainrings. Shifting the chain
onto a smaller chainring makes pedaling easier (a downshift). Shifting to a larger chainring makes pedaling harder (an upshift).
b) Which gear should I be in?
The combination of largest rear, smallest front gears is for the steepest hills. The smallest rear, largest front combination is for
the greatest speed. It is not necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead, find the “starting gear” which is right for your level of
ability -- a gear which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling — and
experiment with up-shifting and downshifting to get a feel for the different gear combinations. At first, practice shifting where
there are no obstacles, hazards or other traffic, until you’ve built up your confidence. Once you’ve learned the basics, experi-
ence will teach you which gear is appropriate for which condition, and practice will help you shift smoothly and at precisely the
optimum moment.

99
3. Shifting an internal gear hub drivetrain
If your bicycle has an internal gear hub drivetrain, the gear changing mechanism will consist of:
• a 3, 5, 7 or possibly 12 speed internal gear hub
• one, or sometimes two shifters
• one or two control cables
• one front sprockets called chainrings
• a drive chain
a) Shifting internal gear hub gears
Shifting with an internal gear hub drivetrain is simply a matter of moving the shifter to the indicated position for the desired gear.
After you have moved the shifter to the gear position of your choice, ease the pressure on the pedals for an instant to allow the
hub to complete the shift.
b) Which gear should I be in?
The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest hills. The numerically largest gear (3, 5, 7 or 12, depending on the number of
speeds of your hub) is for the greatest speed. Shifting from an easier, “slower” gear (like 1) to a harder, “faster” gear (like 2 or 3)
is called an upshift. Shifting from a harder, “faster” gear to an easier, “slower” gear is called a downshift. It is not necessary to
shift gears in sequence. Instead, find the “starting gear” for the conditions -- a gear which is hard enough for quick acceleration
but easy enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling -- and experiment with up-shifting and downshifting to get a feel
for the different gears. At first, practice shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or other traffic, until you’ve built up your
confidence. Once you’ve learned the basics, ex-perience will teach you which gear is appropriate for which condition, and prac
tice will help you shift smoothly and at precisely the optimum moment.

E. Toeclips & Straps

Toeclips and straps are the traditional means which experienced cyclists use to keep their feet correctly positioned and engaged with the
pedals. The toeclip positions the ball of the foot over the pedal spindle, which gives maximum pedaling power. The toe strap, when tight-
ened, keeps the foot engaged throughout the rotation cycle of the pedal. While toeclips and straps give some benefit with any kind of
shoe, they work most effectively with cycling shoes designed for use with toeclips. Your dealer can explain how toeclips and straps work.

WARNING: Getting into and out of pedals with toeclips and straps requires skill which can only be acquired with practice. Until it
becomes a reflex action, the technique requires concentration which can distract the rider’s attention, causing you to lose control and fall.
Practice the use of toeclips and straps where there are no obstacles, hazards or traffic. Keep the straps loose, and don’t tighten them
until your technique and confidence in getting in and out of the pedals war-rants it. Never ride in traffic with your toe straps tight.

100
 F. Clipless (“step-in”) pedals
Clipless pedals (sometimes called “step-in pedals”) are the means most racers use to keep their feet securely in the correct position for
maximum pedaling efficiency. They work like ski bindings ... a plate on the sole of the shoe clicks into a spring-loaded fixture on the
pedal. Clipless pedals require shoes specifically designed for the make and model pedal being used. Many clipless pedals are designed
to allow the rider to adjust the amount of force needed to engage or dis-engage the foot. Your dealer can show you how to make this
adjustment.

WARNING: Clipless pedals are intended for use with shoes specifically made to fit them and are designed to firmly keep the foot
engaged with the pedal. Practice is required to learn to engage and disengage the foot safely. Until engaging and disengaging the foot
becomes a reflex action, the technique requires concentration which can distract the rider’s attention, causing the rider to lose control and
fall. Practice engaging and disengaging clipless pedals in a place where there are no obstacles, hazards or traffic; and be sure that you
follow the setup and service instructions and warnings which came with your pedals.

G. Tires and Tubes

1. Tires
Bicycle tires are available in many designs and specifications, ranging from general-purpose designs to tires designed to perform best
under very specific weather or terrain conditions. Your bicycle has been equipped with tires which the bike’s manufacturer felt were the
best balance of performance and value for the use for which the bike was in-tended. If, once you’ve gained experience with your new
bike, you feel that a different tire might better suit your riding needs, your dealer can help you select the most appropriate design.

The size, pressure rating, and on some high-performance tires the specific recommended use, are marked on the sidewall of the tire. The
part of this information which is most important to you is Tire Pressure.

WARNING: Never inflate a tire beyond the maximum pressure marked on the tire’s sidewall. Exceeding the recommended maximum
pressure may blow the tire off the rim, which could cause damage to the bike and injury to the rider and bystanders. The best way to
inflate a bicycle tire to the correct pressure is with a bicycle pump. Your dealer can help you select an appropriate pump.

CAUTION: Gas station air hoses move a large volume of air very rapidly, and will raise the pressure in your tire very rapidly. To avoid
overinflation when using a gas station air hose, put air into your tire in short, spaced bursts.

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Tire pressure is given either as maximum pressure or as a pressure range. How a tire performs under different terrain or weather condi-
tions depends largely on tire pressure. Inflating the tire to near its maximum recommended pressure gives the lowest rolling resistance;
but also produces the harshest ride. High pressures work best on smooth, dry pavement. Very low pressures, at the bottom of the recom-
mended pressure range, give the best performance on smooth, slick terrain such as hard-packed clay, and on deep, loose surfaces such
as deep, dry sand. Tire pressure that is too low for your weight and the riding conditions can cause a puncture of the tube by allowing the
tire to deform sufficiently to pinch the inner tube between the rim and the riding surface.

CAUTION: Pencil type automotive tire gauges and gas station air hose pressure settings can be inaccurate and should not be relied
upon for consistent, accurate pressure readings. Instead, use a high quality dial gauge.

Ask your dealer to recommend the best tire pressure for the kind of riding you will most often do, and have the dealer inflate your tires to
that pressure. Then, check inflation as described in so you’ll know how correctly inflated tires should look and feel. Some tires may need
to be brought up to pressure every week or two.

Some special high-performance tires have unidirectional treads: their tread pattern is designed to work better in one direction than in the
other. The sidewall marking of a unidirectional tire will have an arrow showing the correct rotation direction. If your bike has unidirectional
tires, be sure that they are mounted to rotate in the correct direction.

2. Tire Valves
The tire valve allows air to enter the tire’s inner tube under pressure, but doesn’t let it back out unless you want it to. There are primarily
two kinds of bicycle tube valves (actually, there are other designs, but they are seldom seen in the US any more): The Schraeder Valve
and the Presta Valve. The bicycle pump you use must have the fitting appropriate to the valve stems on your bicycle.

The Schraeder is like the valve on a car tire. To inflate a Schraeder valve tube, remove the valve cap and push the air hose or pump fit-
ting onto the end of the valve stem. To let air out of a Schraeder valve, depress the pin in the end of the valve stem with the end of a key
or other appropriate object.

The Presta valve has a narrower diameter and is only found on bicycle tires. To inflate a Presta valve tube using a Presta headed bicycle
pump, remove the valve cap; unscrew (counterclockwise) the valve stem lock nut; and push down on the valve stem to free it up. Then
push the pump head on to the valve head, and inflate. To inflate a Presta valve with a gas station air hose, you’ll need a Presta adapter
(available at your bike shop) which screws on to the valve stem once you’ve freed up the valve. The adapter fits the end of the air hose
fitting. Close the valve after inflation. To let air out of a Presta valve, open up the valve stem lock nut and depress the valve stem.

102
 H. Bicycle Suspension
Some Mountain Bikes come equipped with suspension systems which are designed to smooth out some of the shocks encountered in
off-road riding. There are many different types of suspension systems — too many to deal with individually in this Manual. If your bicycle
has a suspension system of any kind, ask your dealer to provide you with the appropriate adjustment and maintenance instructions.

WARNING: Failure to maintain,check and properly adjust the suspension system may result in suspension malfunction, which may cause
you to lose control and fall.

CAUTION: Changing suspension adjustment can change the handling and braking characteristics of your bicycle. Never change suspen-
sion adjustment unless you are thoroughly familiar with the suspension system manufacturer’s instructions and recommendations, and
always check for changes in the handling and braking characteristics of the bicycle after a suspension adjustment by taking a careful test
ride in a hazard-free area.

CAUTION: Not all bicycles can be safely retrofitted with some types of suspension systems. Before retrofitting a bicycle with any suspen-
sion, check with the bicycle’s manufacturer to make sure that what you want to do is compatible with the bicycle’s design.

WARNING: If your bike has suspension, the increased speed you may develop also increases your risk. When braking, the front of a
suspended bike dips. You could lose control and fall if your skill is not up to handling this system. Get to know how to handle your sus-
pension system safely before trying any downhill or very fast mountain biking.

Suspension can increase the handling capabilities and comfort of your bicycle. This enhanced capability may
allow you to ride faster; but you must not confuse the enhanced capabilities of the bicycle with your own
capabilities as a rider. Increasing your skill will take time and practice. Proceed carefully until you are sure
you are competent to handle the full capabilities of your bike. Never ride at a speed or on terrain which is
not suitable for your personal riding skill and experience. Always proceed cautiously in areas where you are
not familiar with the terrain. If you exceed your limitations, serious injury or death could occur.

103
Purchase Record Card
Fill in Immediately and retain as a record of your purchase.
*Please retain your sales receipt for any possible warranty claims.

PART 7 - PURCHASE RECORD

Your Name: __________________________________________________

Address: ____________________________________________________

Date Purchased: ________________ Place of Purchase: ____________

Model & Brand Information: ____________________________________

Wheel Size: ____________________

Color:__________________________

Serial Number: __________________

Serial Number Location

104
 LIMITED WARRANTY
AND POLICY ON REPLACEMENT PROCEDURES AND RESPONSIBILITIES
Your purchase includes the following warranty which is in lieu of all other express warranties. This warranty is extended only to the initial consumer purchaser. No
warranty registration is required. This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may have other rights which vary from state to state.

FRAME
The entire frame is guaranteed against faulty materials and workmanship for as long as the initial consumer purchaser has the bicycle, subject to the condition of the
warranty listed below. If frame failure should occur due to faulty materials or workmanship during the guarantee period, the frame will be replaced. For frame replacement under this
Pacific Limited Warranty, contact us, stating the nature of the failure, model number, date received and the name of the store from which the bike was received, at the address given
on this page. Frame must be returned for inspection at customer's expense. Please note: the fork is not part of the frame. A lifetime warranty on your frame does not guarantee that
the product will last forever. The length of the useful life cycle will vary depending on the type of bike, riding conditions and care the bicycle receives. Competition, jumping, down-
hill racing, trick riding, trial riding, riding in severe conditions or climates, riding with heavy loads or any other non-standard use can substantially shorten the useful product life cycle.
Any one or a combination of these conditions may result in an unpredictable failure that is not covered by this warranty. All bicycles and frame sets should be periodically checked
by an authorized dealer for indications of potential problems, inappropriate use or abuse. These are important safety checks and are very important to help prevent accidents, bod-
ily injury to the rider and shortened useful product life cycle.

PARTS
All other parts of the unit except Normal Wear Parts are warranted against defective materials and workmanship for a period of 1 year from the date of purchase by the initial con-
sumer purchaser, subject to the Terms and Conditions of the warranty listed below. If failure of any part should occur during the warranty period, the part will be replaced for you if
the failure was due to faulty materials or workmanship. All warranty claims must be submitted to the address below and must be shipped prepaid and accompanied by proof of pur-
chase. Any other warranty claims not included in this statement are void. This especially includes installation, assembly, and disassembly costs. This warranty does not cover paint
damage, rust, or any modifications made to the bicycle. Normal Wear Parts are defined as grips, tires, tubes, cables and saddle covering. These parts are warranted to be free from
defects in material and workmanship as delivered with the product. Any claim for repair or replacement of Normal Wear Parts (grips, tubes, tires, cables, brake shoes, and saddle
covering) and missing parts must be made within thirty (30) days of the date of purchase. The warranty does not cover normal wear and tear, improper
assembly or maintenance, or installation of parts or accessories not originally intended or compatible with the bicycle as sold. The warranty does not apply to damage or failure due
to accident, abuse, misuse, neglect, or theft. Claims involving these issues will not be honored.

CONDITIONS OF WARRANTY
1. Your bicycle has been designed for general transportation and recreational use, but has not been designed to withstand abuse associated with stunting and jumping.
This warranty ceases when you rent, sell, or give away the bicycle, ride with more than one person, or use the bicycle for stunting or jumping.
2. This warranty does not cover ordinary wear and tear or anything you break accidentally or deliberately.
3. It is the responsibility of the individual consumer purchaser to assure that all parts included in the factory-sealed carton are properly installed, all functional parts are
initially adjusted properly, and subsequent normal maintenance services and adjustments necessary to keep the bicycle in good operating condition are properly made.
This warranty does not apply to damage due to improper installation of parts or failure to properly maintain or adjust the bicycle. NOTICE: Bicycle specifications
subject to change without notice.

PACIFIC CYCLE LLC

4902 Hammersley Road
Madison, WI 53711
Call Toll Free 1.800.626.2811
Monday -Friday 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Central Time
105
 Tread Tread Worn Off
On some newer type cantilever brakes, the main brake cable
continues through the central cable carrier to an anchor bolt on one
of the brake arms. A shorter link cable reaches from the carrier and
the hook on the other brake arm. Adjustment of the cable length is
made after loosening the anchor bolt on the brake arm.

Adjust the brake pad position so that it is parallel to the wheel rim
Usable Brake Shoe Worn Out Brake Shoe (Replace)
and so that the leading edge makes first contact.
To do this, fit an Allen key into the brake pad holding bolt, loosen
the fixing nut and adjust. Move the brake pad along its mounting
post to alter the distance from the rim, and move the curved adjustment
washer to alter the angle of the pad.

On some models there is a spring-force adjustment screw on the

brake arm which allows further fine tuning of the brake shoe position.
Align brake shoe with rim surface
Bicycles with cantilever brakes must be fitted with safety devices to
prevent a possible accident in the event of the brake control cable
or the straddle bridge becoming loose or breaking while riding.
These are usually the reflector brackets, and must be fitted in the
Direction of rim Brake Shoe Holding Nut
rotation front and rear. The bracket will prevent the straddle cable from
interfering with the wheel should the cable become disconnected
from the control cable. If the reflector brackets are not fitted in this
position, then alternative emergency cable safety stops must still be fitted.

0.5 - 1.0 mm

73
 DRIVETRAIN
The drivetrain of a bicycle refers to all parts that transmit power to the
rear wheel including the pedals, chain, chainwheel, crank set, and
freewheel.

PEDALS
Pedals are available in a variety of shapes, sizes and materials, and
each are designed with a particular purpose in mind. Some pedals
can be fitted with toe clips and straps. These help to keep the feet
correctly positioned and allow the rider to exert pulling force, as well
as downward pressure, on the pedals. Use of toe clips with straps
requires practice to acquire the necessary skill to operate them safely.

Inspection
Pedals should be inspected every month, taking note of the
following areas:
- Check correct tightness into the crank arms. If pedals are allowed
to become loose, they will not only be dangerous but will also
L = Left
cause irreparable damage to the cranks.
Turn counter-clockwise - Check that pedal bearings are properly adjusted. Move the pedals
to tighten. up and down, and right to left, and also rotate them by hand. If
you detect any looseness or roughness in the pedal bearings then
adjustment, lubrication or replacement is required.
- Ensure that the front and rear pedal reflectors are clean and
securely fitted.
- Also ensure that the toe clips, if fitted, are securely tightened
to the pedals.

R = Right
Never ride with loose pedals.
Turn clockwise
to tighten.

74
 Lubrication and Adjustment
Many pedals cannot be disassembled to allow access to the
internal bearings and axle. However, it is usually possible to inject
a little oil onto the inside bearings, and this should be done every
six months. If the pedal is the type that can be fully
disassembled, then the bearings should be removed, cleaned and
greased every six to twelve months. Because of the wide variety
of pedal types and their internal complexity, disassembly procedures
are beyond the scope of this manual and further assistance
should be sought from a specialist.

Never ride in traffic with fully tightened toe straps.

Pedal with toe clip and strap attached

Attachment
Note: The right and left pedals of a bicycle each have a different thread and are not interchangeable.
Never force a pedal into the incorrect crank arm.
The right pedal, which attaches to the chainwheel side, is marked 'R' on the end of the axle, and screws in with a clock-
wise thread. The left pedal, which attaches to the other crank arm, is marked 'L' on the axle, and screws in with a
counter-clockwise thread.
Insert the correct pedal into the crank arm and begin to turn the thread with your fingers only. When the axle is screwed
all the way in, securely tighten using a 15mm wrench.
If removing a pedal, remember that the right pedal axle must be turned counter clockwise, i.e. the reverse of when fitting.
If replacing the original pedals with a new set, make sure the size and the axle thread is compatible with the cranks on
your bicycle. Bicycles use one of two types of cranks and these use different axle threads. Your bike may be equipped
with cranks that are a one piece design with no separate axle. These operate with pedals that have a 1/2"(12.7mm)
thread. Bikes equipped with three piece crank sets with a separate axle, left crank and right crank, use a slightly larger
9/16"(14mm) thread.
Note: Never try and force a pedal with the wrong thread size into a bicycle crank.

75
 CRANK SET
The crank set refers to the bottom bracket axle and bearings, the
crank arms, and chainrings.
Your bike may be fitted with either a one piece crank, where the crank
arms and bottom bracket are a single component, or cotterless cranks,
where the crank arms bolt onto the bottom bracket axle without using
old fashioned type cotterpins. The one piece system is simpler and
requires less maintenance, while the cotterless system requires a little
extra care.

Never ride your bike if the cotterless cranks are loose.

Cotterless Crank This may be dangerous and will damage the crank
arms beyond repair.

Inspection
Fixed Cup The crank set should be checked for correct adjustment and tightness
every month. Cotterless crank axle nuts must be kept tight, and the
bottom bracket bearings must be properly adjusted.
Remove the chain and try to move the cranks from side to side with
Ball Bearing your hands. The cranks should not move on the axle, and there
Axle
Lockring should be only very slight movement in the bottom bracket. Next,
spin the cranks. If they don't spin freely without grinding noise, then
Adjusting adjustment or lubrication will be needed. Also check that there are no
Cup broken teeth on the chainrings, and wipe off excess dirt and grease
that may have built up on them.

Standard Bottom Bracket Assembly (Cotterless)

76
 Lubrication and Adjustment - One Piece Cranks
To adjust the free play in a one piece type bottom bracket, loosen the locknut on the left side by turning it clockwise
and tighten the adjusting cone counter-clockwise using a screwdriver in the slot. When correctly adjusted, re-tighten
the locknut counter-clockwise.
To disassemble:
1. Remove the chain from the chainwheel.
2. Remove the left pedal by turning the spindle clockwise.
3. Remove the left side locknut by turning it clockwise and remove the keyed lockwasher.
4. Remove the adjusting cone by turning it clockwise with a screwdriver.
5. Remove the left ball retainer, slide the crank assembly out of the frame to the right, and remove the right ball retainer.
Clean and inspect all bearing surfaces and ball retainers, and replace any damaged parts. Pack the ball bearing
retainers with grease, then re-assemble in the reverse of the above procedure.

Bearing Cup
Locknut

Fixed Cone

Lockwasher

Adjusting Cone

Bearing Cup
Ball Retainer
Ball Retainer
Crank

Chainwheel
One Piece Crank Assembly

77
 Lubrication and Adjustment
Bottom Bracket - Cotterless Cranks
To adjust the free play in a three piece type bottom bracket, loosen
the lockring on the left side by turning it counter-clockwise, then turn
the adjusting cup as required. Re-tighten the lockring taking care not
to alter the cup adjustment.

Fixed Cup
Cotterless Crank removing tool To disassemble:
1. Remove the cranks from the axle.
2. Remove the left side lockring by turning it counter-clockwise.
3. Remove the adjusting cup by turning it counter-clockwise.
Ball Retainer 4. Remove the left ball retainer and slide the axle out of the frame to
the left.
Adjusting Cup 5. Remove the right side fixed cup by turning it counter-clockwise and
remove the right ball retainer. Clean and inspect all bearing surfaces
Bottom Bracket Lockring and ball retainers, and replace any damaged parts. Pack the ball
Shell
bearing retainers with grease, then re-assemble in reverse of
Axle the above procedure.

Remove the dust cap.

Cotterless Crank Removal
To remove cotterless cranks use the following procedure.
Loosen and remove Note that a special tool will be required.
the flange nut.
1. Remove the dust cap with a coin or screwdriver.
2. Loosen the flange nut or bolt and washer, and remove.

78
 Screw in the removal tool.
3. Screw the removing tool into the crank and tighten.
4. Turn the screw bolt down until the crank comes away from
the axle.
Turn the screw bolt
clockwise.
Cotterless Crank Replacement:
1. Replace the crank arm onto the axle.
2. Tap the crank arm lightly with a mallet.
3. Refit the washer and tighten flange nut or bolt securely to a
torque of 27Nm.
4. Replace the dust cover

Position the crank on the axle.

Adjustment After Use:
1. Remove dust cap.
Lightly tap the crank 2. Tap the crank arm lightly with a mallet.
onto the axle. 3. Re-tighten the flange nuts, and refit the dust caps.

New cotterless cranks may become loose with initial

use. Perform the following task after several hours of
riding, and repeat it two or three times after further
use. Cranks should then remain tight.

Tighten the flange nut.

Replace the dust cap.

79
 Rear Sprocket Front Chainwheel
CHAIN

Inspection
Pull up
The chain must be kept clean, rust free and frequently lubricated in
order to extend its life as long as possible. It will require replacement
if it stretches, breaks, or causes inefficient gear shifting. Make sure
that there are no stiff links, they must all move freely.

10 mm
Straightedge

Lubrication
The chain should be lubricated with light oil at least every month, or after use in wet, muddy, or dusty conditions.
Take care to wipe off excess oil, and not to get oil on the tires or rim braking surfaces.

Adjustment and Replacement

On derailleur geared bicycles the rear derailleur automatically tensions the chain.
To adjust the chain on single speed freewheel, coaster hub braked or 3-speed hub geared bicycles:

1. Loosen the rear axle nuts (and coaster brake arm clip if fitted) and move the wheel forward to loosen, or backward to
tighten, in the frame.
2. When correctly adjusted, the chain should have approximately 10mm of vertical movement when checked in the center
between the chainwheel and rear sprocket. Center the wheel in the frame and re-tighten the axle nuts after any
adjustment. Bicycles which have a single speed freewheel, coaster hub brake or 3-speed hub, generally use a wider
type chain than derailleur geared bicycles. These chains can be disconnected by way of a special U-shape joining link,
that can be pried off of the master link with a screwdriver. To replace, feed the chain around the chainwheel and rear
sprocket, fit the master link into the rollers into each end of the chain, position the master link side plate, and slip on the
U-shaped snap-on plate. Make sure the open end of the U-shaped plate is trailing as the link approaches the
chainwheel when pedaling forward.
80
 Derailleur geared bicycles use narrower chains and require a
special tool to fit and remove chain links, or to change the length.
To remove, fit the rivet tool so that the punch pin is centered over
any one of the chain rivets. Push the rivet almost all the way out,
then back out the punch and remove the tool. Holding the chain
on both sides of the punched rivet, bend it slightly to release link
from the rivet. To install, feed chain around chainwheel, rear
sprocket and derailleur cage with rivet facing away from the bicycle.
Bring the two ends together within the special tool and punch the
rivet into place. Be sure not to push rivet too far through side plate.

Chain Rivet Tool

FREEWHEEL
Inspection
Like the chain, the freewheel must be kept clean and well
lubricated. If the chain has become worn and needs replacing,
then it is likely that the freewheel will also have become worn and
should also be replaced. Take the chain off the freewheel and
rotate it with your hand. If you hear a grinding noise or the
freewheel stops suddenly after spinning it, it may need adjustment
or replacement. Such action is beyond the scope of this manual
and you should consult a specialist.

81
 Lubrication
Brake Arm Clip Remove any accumulated dirt from the freewheel with a brush
Brake Arm
and a degreaser. Disassembly of the freewheel is a complicated
procedure requiring special tools, and should be left to a
Sprocket specialist. Apply oil to the freewheel whenever you lubricate the
chain, taking care to wipe off any excess.

COASTER HUB
Many BMX style and other children's bicycles are fitted with a
coaster hub brake in the rear wheel. This type of brake offers
the advantages of reliability and easy operation. The brake is
operated by applying back pedal pressure and allows the rider
to 'coast' without pedaling, if desired. There are several models
of coaster hubs available, and the internal mechanisms are very
complex. They require infrequent attention as far as lubrication,
adjustment or replacement of internal parts; if needed, this
should be left to a specialist.
Keep the coaster hub sprocket clean and oil it along with the chain.

Make sure the brake arm is correctly attached to

the chainstay with the brake arm clip. The brake
will not operate otherwise.

82
 DERAILLEUR SYSTEMS
The derailleur system includes the front and rear derailleurs, the shift levers, and the derailleur control cables, all of which
must function correctly for smooth gear shifting to occur. There are several different types of derailleur systems but all
operate using similar principles. Your new bicycle may be fitted with a standard 'friction' type system where you will need
to feel each gear shift into position. It may be fitted with an ‘index’ system (e.g. SIS) which links each different gear position
to a positive click mechanism in the shifter, and makes shifting very simple and precise. A further development of SIS is
the fully integrated system (e.g. STI) where the shift lever and brake lever mechanisms form an integrated unit with the
system allowing both gear shifting and braking to occur at the same time.

Inspection
Pre-stretch the derailleur The operation of the derailleur system should be checked at
cables to remove slack least every month. Check the operation of the rear derailleur
first, then the front. The rear derailleur should shift the chain
cleanly from one cog to the next without hesitation. On SIS
equipped bicycles, each notched position in the shifter must
equate to a new gear position. After shifting, the rear derailleur
should not rub on the chain. The derailleur should never cause
the chain to fall off the inner or outer freewheel cogs.
The front derailleur should also shift the chain cleanly and
without hesitation between each chainring. If your bicycle is
equipped with front SIS, then each click or stop in the shifter
should equate exactly to a new gear position. When the chain
has been positioned onto a new chainring, it should not rub on
the front derailleur. The chain should not fall off a chainring at
any time. Derailleur control cables are a critical component that
must be well maintained for accurate shifting performance.
Stretch
Check them for any sign of rust, fraying, kinks, broken strands,
and any damage to the cable housing. If you find any
problems, the cables may need replacing before you ride.
83
Freewheel
Outer side of Top Gear Lubrication
Pulley Adjustment All the pivoting points of the front and rear derailleurs should be
Screw lubricated with light oil at least every month. Be sure to wipe off any
excess oil to prevent attraction of dirt into the mechanisms. The shifting
cables should be cleaned and re-coated with a thin layer of grease
every six months, or whenever new cables are being installed.

Adjustment - Rear Derailleur

Adjustment The Low limit screw determines how far the rear derailleur will travel
Screws
toward the wheel of the bicycle, while the High limit screw determines
how far the cage will travel toward the frame.
1. Shift the rear shifter to the largest number indicated, disconnect the
SIS Cable Adjuster rear derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt and place the chain
Guide Pulley
on the smallest sprocket.
Tension Pulley 2. Adjust the High limit screw so the chain and the smallest sprocket
are lined up vertically. Remove any slack in the cable by pulling it
Rear Derailleur Rear View
taut, then re-connect the cable and tighten the cable anchor bolt securely.
3. Shift up through the gears making sure that each gear is achieved quietly
High Gear
Adjustment Screw
and without hesitation.
If noise occurs, use the barrel adjuster to fine-tune the cable tension.
Low Gear Turning the barrel adjuster clockwise will decrease cable tension and
Adjustment Screw allow the derailleur cage to move farther away from the bicycle in small
increments. Turning counter-clockwise will increase cable tension and
bring the cage closer to the bicycle. This will micro-adjust the positioning
of the derailleur cage in relation to the freewheel. Simply put; turn the
barrel adjuster the direction you want the chain to go.
4. Shift the chain onto the largest sprocket; adjust the low limit screw so the
chain and the largest cog are lined up vertically. If you are unable to get
the chain to the largest cog, turning the Low limit screw counter-clockwise
will enable the chain to move towards the wheel.
SIS Cable 5. Shift through the gears ensuring each gear is achieved quietly and without
Adjuster hesitation.
NOTE: It may take several adjustments to achieve the desired positioning.
Rear Derailleur Side View Please refer to the troubleshooting section for more assistance.
84
 Low Adjusting Screw Adjustment - Front Derailleur
1. Shift the rear shifter to the smallest number indicated, then shift
High Adjusting the front shifter to the smallest number indicated. Disconnect the
Cable Fixing Bolt Screw
front derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt and place the
chain on the smallest chainwheel.
2. Make sure the front derailleur cage is parallel with the outer
Chainguide
Outer Chainguide clearance of
chainwheel on the crankset. There must be a 3-5mm gap between
1-3 mm the bottom of the derailleur cage and the top of the outer chainwheel
Inner Chainguide teeth to ensure the derailleur will clear the chainwheel when shifting.
3. Adjust the low limit screw so the chain is centered in the middle of
derailleur cage. Pull all slack out of the cable by pulling it taut, then
reconnect the cable and tighten the cable anchor bolt securely.
4. Shift the front shifter into the largest gear and pedal the bike so the
chain jumps to the largest chainwheel. If the chain does not shift
onto the largest chainwheel, you will need to turn the High limit
screw counter-clockwise until the chain moves to the largest
chainwheel. If the chain falls into the pedals, the High limit screw has
been turned too far. You will need to readjust the High screw
clockwise in 1/4 turn increments until the chain no longer falls off.
5. Shift through each gear ensuring all are achieved quietly and without
hesitation.
6. The barrel adjuster for the front derailleur is located on the shift
mechanism. Turning clockwise will decrease cable tension and
allow the front derailleur cage to move away from the bike, while
turning counter-clockwise will increase tension and bring the cage
closer to the bike. If you are experiencing problems shifting between
gears, use the barrel adjuster to fine-tune the cable tension.
NOTE: It may take several adjustments to achieve the desired positioning.

85
QUICK RELEASE LEVERS
It is important to check the quick release levers before every ride to ensure all connections are made properly
and securely. Periodically, disassemble the mechanism from the bicycle and inspect for any wear or damage
and replace if necessary. When re-installing, it is very important to ensure the connections are made properly.
Please refer to page 21 and 22 for the appropriate assembly instructions.

REFLECTORS
Your bicycle is supplied with one front (white), one rear (red), two wheel (white), and two pedal (orange)
reflectors. These are an important safety and legal requirement, and should remain securely fitted and in good,
clean conditions at all times. Periodically, inspect all reflectors, brackets and mounting hardware for signs of
wear or damage. Replace immediately if damage is found. Please see pages 12-13 for more information.

Wear reflective clothing

when riding.

Reflectors Attach a light to your

Reflectors
bike if you ride at night.

86
 MISCELLANEOUS ACCESSORIES
Your bicycle might be shipped with accessories that can be added onto you new bicycle. The following will detail how and where to
attach your micilanious accessories.

Basket Assembly
Your bicycle may be supplied with an attachable front basket. You
must make sure that the basket is attached properly.

First insert on washer onto the 10mm hex head bolt and insert hex
head bolt through the basket an then through the basket bracket
assembly (on bike). Next, insert a second washer onto the bolt and
thread a 10mm nylox nut onto the bolt behind the basket bracket
assembly. Tighten bolts until snug. Repeat for second bolt. See dia-
gram at the right.

87
Problem Possible Cause Remedy
Gear shifts not working properly - Derailleur cables - Lubricate/tighten/replace cables
sticking/stretched/damaged
- Front or rear derailleur not adjusted - Adjust derailleurs
properly
- Indexed shifting not adjusted properly - Adjust indexing

Slipping chain - Excessively worn/chipped chainring - Replace chainring, sprockets and

or freewheel sprocket teeth chain
- Chain worn/stretched - Replace chain
- Stiff link in chain - Lubricate or replace link
- Non compatible chain/chainring/ - Seek advice at a bicycle shop
freewheel

Chain jumping off freewheel - Chainring out of true - Re-true if possible, or replace
sprocket or chainring - Chainring loose - Tighten mounting bolts
- Chainring teeth bent or broken - Repair or replace chainring/set
- Rear or front derailleur side-to-side - Adjust derailleur travel
travel out of adjustment

Constant clicking noises when - Stiff chain link - Lubricate chain / Adjust chain link
pedaling - Loose pedal axle/bearings - Adjust bearings/axle nut
- Loose bottom bracket axle/bearings - Adjust bottom bracket
- Bent bottom bracket or pedal axle - Replace bottom bracket axle or
pedals
- Loose crankset - Tighten crank bolts

Grinding noise when pedaling - Pedal bearings too tight - Adjust bearings
- Bottom bracket bearings too tight - Adjust bearings
- Chain fouling derailleurs - Adjust chain line
- Derailleur jockey wheels - Clean and lubricate jockey wheels
dirty/binding
88
 Problem Possible Cause Remedy
Freewheel does not rotate - Freewheel internal pawl pins are - Lubricate. If problem persists,
jammed replace freewheel

Brakes not working effectively - Brake blocks worn down - Replace brake blocks
- Brake blocks/rim greasy, wet or dirty - Clean blocks and rim
- Brake cables are
binding/stretched/damaged - Clean/adjust/replace cables
- Brake levers are binding - Adjust brake levers
- Brakes out of adjustment - Center brakes

When applying the brakes - Brake blocks worn down - Replace blocks
they squeal/squeak - Brake block toe-in incorrect - Correct block toe-in
- Brake blocks/rim dirty or wet - Clean blocks and rim
- Brake arms loose - Tighten mounting bolts

Knocking or shuddering when - Bulge in the rim or rim out of true - True wheel or take to a bike shop
applying brakes for repair
- Brake mounting bolts loose - Tighten bolts
- Brakes out of adjustment - Center brakes and/or adjust brake
block toe-in
- Fork loose in head tube - Tighten headset

Wobbling wheel - Axle broken - Replace axle

- Wheel out of true - True wheel
- Hub comes loose - Adjust hub bearings
- Headset binding - Adjust headset
- Hub bearings collapsed - Replace bearings
- QR mechanism loose - Adjust QR mechanism
89
Problem Possible Cause Remedy
Steering not accurate - Wheels not aligned in frame - Align wheels correctly
- Headset loose or binding - Adjust/tighten headset
- Front forks or frame bent - Take bike to a bike shop for possible
frame realignment

Frequent punctures - Inner tube old or faulty - Replace Inner tube

- Tire tread/casing worn - Replace tire
- Tire unsuited to rim - Replace with correct tire
- Tire not checked after previous - Remove sharp object embedded
puncture in tire
- Tire pressure too low - Correct tire pressure
- Spoke protruding into rim - File down spoke

90
 6. How Things Work
It’s important to your performance, enjoyment and safety to understand how things work on your bicycle. Even if you’re an experienced
bicyclist, don’t assume that the way things work on your new bike is the same as how they work on older bikes. Be sure to read and to
understand this section of the Manual. If you have even the slightest doubt as to whether you understand something, talk to your dealer.

A. Wheel Quick Release

WARNING: Riding with an improperly adjusted wheel quick release can allow the wheel to wobble or disengage from the bicycle, causing
damage to the bicycle, and serious injury or death to the rider. Therefore, it is essential that you:
1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you know how to install and remove your wheels safely.
2. Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your wheel in place with a quick release.
3. Each time, before you ride the bike, check that the wheel is securely clamped.
Invented in the 1930s to allow quick, easy wheel removal without the need for tools, the bicycle wheel quick release has become stan-
dard equipment on most recreational, sports and competition bicycles. While it looks like a long bolt with a lever on one end and a nut on
the other, the wheel quick release uses a cam action to clamp the bike’s wheel in place. Because of its adjustable nature, it is critical that
you understand how it works and how to use it properly.

CAUTION: The full force of the cam action is needed to clamp the wheel securely. Holding the nut with one hand and turning the lever
like a wing nut with the other hand until everything is as tight as you can get it will not clamp the wheel safely in the dropouts.

1. Adjusting the quick release mechanism

The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of the quick release cam pushing against one dropout and pulling the tension adjusting
nut, by way of the skewer, against the other dropout. The amount of clamping force is controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning the
tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise while
keeping the cam lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Less than half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the difference
between safe clamping force and unsafe clamping force.
NOTE: Once the quick release is installed in the hub axle by the manufacturer or the dealer, it never needs to be removed unless the
hub itself requires servicing. If the hub requires servicing, consult your dealer.
2. Front Wheel Secondary Retention Devices
Many bicycles have front forks which utilizes a secondary wheel retention device to keep the wheel from disengaging if the quick release
is incorrectly adjusted. Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for correct quick release adjustment.

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Secondary retention devices fall into two basic categories:
a) The clip-on type is an accessory part which the manufacturer adds to the front wheel hub or front fork.
b) The integral type is molded, cast or machined into the outer faces of the front fork dropouts.
Ask your dealer to explain the particular secondary retention device on your bike.
WARNING: Removing or disabling the secondary retention device is extremely dangerous and may lead to serious injury or death. It also
may void the warranty.
3. Removing or Installing Quick Release Wheels
a. Removing a Quick Release Front Wheel
(1) Open up the brake shoes.
(2) Rotate the wheel’s quick-release lever from the locked or CLOSED position to the OPEN position.
(3) If your front fork does not have a secondary retention device go to step 5.
(4) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary retention device, disengage it and go to step (5). If your front fork has
an integral secondary retention device, loosen the tension adjusting enough to allow removing the wheel; then go to
step (5).
(5) Raise the front wheel a few inches off the ground and tap the top of the wheel with the palm of your hand to knock
the wheel out of the front fork.
b. Installing a Quick Release Front Wheel
(1) Rotate the quick-release lever so that it curves away from the wheel. This is the OPEN position.
(2) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel between the fork blades so that the axle seats firmly at the
top of the slots which are at the tips of the fork blades — the fork drop-outs. The quick-release lever should be on the
left side of the bicycle. If your bike has a clip-on type secondary retention device, engage it.
(3) Holding the quick-release lever in the OPEN position with your right hand, tighten the tension adjusting nut with your
left hand until it is finger tight against the fork dropout.
(4) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the slots in the fork dropouts, and at the same time centering the wheel
rim in the fork, rotate the quick-release lever upwards and push it into the CLOSED position (fig. 11 & 12). The lever
should be parallel to the fork blade and curved toward the wheel.
CAUTION: If you can fully close the quick release without wrapping your fingers around the fork blade for leverage,
and the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the tension is insufficient. Open the lever; turn the
tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.
(5) If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel to the fork blade, return the lever to the OPEN posi-
tion. Then turn the tension adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter turn and try tightening the lever again.

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 (6) Close the brake shoes; then spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake
shoes.
WARNING: Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for correct quick release adjustment. Failure to properly
adjust the quick release mechanism can cause the wheel to wobble or disengage, which could cause you to lose con
trol and fall, resulting in serious injury or death.
c. Removing a Quick Release Rear Wheel
(1) Shift the rear derailleur to high gear (the smallest, outermost rear sprocket).
(2) Open up the brake shoes.
(3) Pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.
(4) Rotate the quick-release lever to the OPEN position.
(5) Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches and, with the derailleur still pulled back, push the wheel forward and
down until it comes out of the rear dropouts.
d. Installing a Quick Release Rear Wheel
(1) Shift the rear derailleur to its outermost position
(2) Pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.
(3) Rotate the quick-release lever to the OPEN position. The lever should be on the side of the wheel opposite the
derailleur and freewheel sprockets.
(4) Put the chain on top of the smallest free wheel sprocket. Then, insert the wheel into the frame dropouts and pull it
all the way in to the dropouts.
(5) Tighten the adjusting nut until it is finger tight against the frame dropout; then rotate the lever toward the front of the
bike until it is parallel to the frame’s chainstay or seatstay and is curved toward the wheel.
CAUTION: If you can fully close the quick release without wrapping your fingers around the fork blade for leverage,
and the lever doe not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the tension is insufficient. Open the lever; turn the
tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.
(6) If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel to the chainstay or seatstay tube, return the lever to
the OPEN position. Then turn the adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter turn and try tightening again.
(7) Push the rear derailleur back into position.
(8) Close the brake shoes; then spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake
shoes.

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