Amigurumi Pattern Crochet Doll Milena

Gorbunova_dolls’ design
Copyright
All Gorbunova_dolls’ patterns are protected by international copyright laws and are intended for
personal use only. All rights reserved. It is prohibited to distribute instructions on paper or
electronically (you may not sell or share the patterns, do not post them on the Internet, or
translate them into other languages). You may sell any item made personally by you according to
this pattern. If you have any questions about this pattern, please feel free to contact me!
Thanks, and enjoy crocheting!

Yulia Gorbunova
Etsy Shop: https://www.etsy.com/shop/GCrochetdolls
Email: [email protected]
Instagram: @gorbunova.dolls
Notes for following my dec (s) = decreasing (s) (sc2tog)
sc2tog = single crochet two stitches together
patterns:
sl st = slip stitch
1. Work in spirals. Do not join, slip stitch or turn
unless otherwise stated in the pattern. st(s) = stitch (es)
2. Use a stitch marker in the beginning of each
round. This will help to mark the first stitch of dc = double crochet
every round tr = treble crochet
3. Alternative for stitch marker: You can use
different yarn for stitch markers too. Just place BLO = back loop only
it into the first stitch of every row\round as you
go.
rnd = round
4. Alternative for magic ring: Make chain 2. Work If there is a record in the brackets in the pattern,
6sc in first chain. multiplied by some number, for example (3 sc, 1 inc)
5. Yarn suggestions: If you cannot find the same x 3, it means you need to repeat this action 3 times,
yarn, you can buy a different brand of yarn. But that is 3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc.
I suggest choosing to yarn similar m/gr.
6. Finished size is about 27 cm tall = 10,6 inches USA/UK terminology comparison chart
(using the yarn and crochet hook stated in the Abbreviations USA Abbreviations UK
pattern) ch - chain ch - chain
Abbreviations: sc – single crochet dc – double crochet
dc – double crochet tr - treble
ch(s) = chain (s) hdc – half double htr – half treble
crochet
sc = single crochet tr – treble (triple dtr – double treble
hdc = half double crochet crochet)
sl st – slip stitch sl - slip stitch
inc (s) = increasing (s) (2 sc in 1 st) skip miss
Materials:
✓ Hook 2 mm, 1.5 mm for doll, 1 mm to crochet eyes and outfit

✓ 100 gr yarn Charm Vita cotton 106m/50gr 100% mercerized cotton, color 4178

✓ Cotton yarn 475m/50gr, different colors for dress, shoe, cap, bag, panties
✓ PVC single copper electrical wire approx. 30 cm (11,8 inches) long, 1-1,5 mm in diameter
(for arms). You can buy it at electric supplies stores. Use only copper wire for the frame as
copper can better stand bending compared to aluminum
✓ Plaster - adhesive-backed fabric tape 1 cm wide to work up the wire (the one you use to
cover wounds).
✓ Insoles in boots, it can be plastic cards, plastic from cans, shampoos and so on. Any
plastic container
✓ Approximately 150-170 cm doll wig – 15-20 cm long.

✓ Fiberfill for stuffing

✓ Mulina DMC for eyes, required colors are black, white, others for taste, brown for
eyebrows, any for lips
✓ 3-4 buttons (8mm) for dress

✓ Eurofatin for underskirt, pink color (4m long, 8-9cm width)

✓ Jersey for leggings (you can use socks)
✓ Needle, scissors, elastic, glue – if you plan to crochet wig into head

✓ Different decorations, lace, flowers as you like

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Left leg
Attention: the marker should be always in the back central stitch. Move the marker up when you complete
the round. If you notice that marker moves to the right more, you need to work an extra stitch (or stitches) in
the end of round (shift stitch(es)). Place marker after that/those extra stitches. Shift stitch is not included in
description of rounds.

Shift stitch is an extra single crochet stitch (stitches) in the end of a round worked to move the beginning of
next round one or few stitches further than the original beginning of next round.

Continue stuffing while you go. Make sure you crochet tight enough; otherwise, the stuffing
will show through the holes.
Rnd1: ch 9, start from the second ch from hook – 7 sc, 3 sc in one ch,
6 sc, 2 sc in ch (18)
Rnd2: 1 inc, 6 sc, 3 incs, 6 sc, 2 incs (24)
Rnd3: 1 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 5 incs (dc), 1 hdc,
7 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc (32)
Now it is necessary to outline the sole
on paper and cut it out. Later we will
need this pattern for cutting out
insoles from plastic.
Rnd4: 1 sc, work BLO 31 sc, mark
the first BLO sc (32)
Rnds5-6: 32 sc (32)

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From the following round start to correct the marker in

each rnd
Rnd7: 11 sc, 6 decs, 9 sc (26)
Rnd8: 26 sc (26)
Rnd9: 8 sc, 6 decs, 6 sc (20)
Cut two insoles from plastic, be sure to make two so
that the foots are the same in size. We put one in the
foot and stuff a little.
Rnd10: 7 sc, 4 decs, 5 sc (16)
Rnd11: 3 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 2 sc (14)
Rnd12: 14 sc (14)
Rnd13: 2 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc, 1 sc (16)
Rnd14: inc, 15 sc (17)
Rnd15: 2 sc, inc, 14 sc (18)
Rnd16: 18 sc (18)
Rnd17: inc, 2 sc, inc, 14 sc (20)
Rnd18: 20 sc (20)
Rnd19: inc, 2 sc, inc, 16 sc (22)

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Rnd20: 22 sc (22)
Rnd21: 3 sc, 1 dec, 13 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc (20)
Rnd22: 20 sc (20)
Rnd23: 1 dec, 18 sc (19)
Rnd24: 2 sc, 2 dec, 13 sc (17)
Rnd25: 17 sc (17)

Before you start the next round, stuff firmly the leg, this will help to
determine the marker - the beg of rnd
Rnd26: 1 inc, 6 sc, 2 incs (knees), 8 sc (20)
To make 2 incs (knees) exactly in the center of the leg, you can work
7 or 5 sc instead of 6 sc before 2 incs, and 7 or 9 sc instead of 8 sc
after the increases, it depends on your density and the place of your
marker.
Rnd27: 20 sc (20)
2 decreases in the next round are worked not exactly above the incs of Rnd26, but from the
second sc of the first inc, so the dec sts go to the inner side of the leg. If the pattern of the
next round doesn’t suit to you, you should crochet 3 or 5 sc before 2 decs, and 4
or 2 sc instead of 3 sc at the end of the round
Rnd28: inc, 3 sc, inc, 4 sc, 2 dec, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc (21)
Rnd29: 21 sc (21)

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Rnd30: 4 sc, inc, 16 sc, (22)

Rnd31: 22 sc (22)
Rnd32: 4 sc, inc, 17 sc (23)
Rnd33: 23 sc (23)
Rnd34: 5 sc, inc, 17 sc (24)
Rnd35: 24 sc (24)
Rnd36: 5 sc, inc, 18 sc (25)
Rnd37: 25 sc (25)
The leg is ready. Do not cut off the yarn. Fill the leg firmly.

Right leg
Attention: the marker should be always in the back central stitch. Move the marker up when you complete
the round. If you notice that marker moves to the right more, you need to work an extra stitch (or stitches) in
the end of round (shift stitch(es)). Place marker after that/those extra stitches. Shift stitch is not included in
description of rounds.

Shift stitch is an extra single crochet stitch (stitches) in the end of a round worked to move the beginning of
next round one or few stitches further than the original beginning of next round.

Continue stuffing while you go. Make sure you crochet tight enough; otherwise, the stuffing will show through
the holes.

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Rnd1: ch 9, start from the second ch from hook – 7 sc, 3 sc in one ch, 6 sc, 2 sc in ch (18)
Rnd2: 1 inc, 6 sc, 3 incs, 6 sc, 2 incs (24)
Rnd3: 1sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 hdc, 5 incs (dc), 2 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc (32)
Rnd4: 1 sc, work BLO 31 sc, mark the first BLO sc (32)
Rnds5-6: 32 sc (32)
Rnd7: 9 sc, 6 decs, 11 sc (26)
Rnd8: 26 sc (26)
Rnd9: 6 sc, 6 decs, 8 sc (20)
Put insole in the foot and stuff a little.
Rnd10: 5 sc, 4 decs, 7 sc (16)
Rnd11: 2 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 3 sc (14)
Rnd12: 14 sc (14)
Rnd13: 1 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc, 2 sc (16)
Rnd14: inc, 15 sc (17)
Rnd15: 14 sc, inc, 2 sc (18)
Rnd16: 18 sc (18)
Rnd17: 14 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc (20)
Rnd18: 20 sc (20)
Rnd19: 16 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc (22)
Rnd20: 22 sc (22)

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Rnd21: 2 sc, 1 dec, 13 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc (20)

Rnd22: 20 sc (20)
Rnd23: 1 dec, 18 (19)
Rnd24: 13 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc (17)
Rnd25: 17 sc (17)
Before you start the next round, stuff firmly the leg, this will help to determine the marker - the beg of rnd
26 ряд: 6 sc, 2 incs (knees), 8 sc, 1 inc (20)
To make 2 incs (knees) exactly in the center of the leg, you can work 5 or 7 sc instead of 6 sc before 2 incs, and
9 or 7 sc instead of 8 sc after the increases, it depends on your density and the place of your marker.
Rnd27: 20 sc (20)
2 decreases in the next round are worked not exactly above the incs of Rnd26, but from the st before the first
inc, so the dec stitches go to the inner side of the leg. If the pattern of the next round doesn’t suit to you, you
should crochet 2 or 4 sc instead of 3 sc before 2 decs, then instead of 5 sc before the inc, we make 6 or 4 sc.
Rnd28: 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, 2 decs, 5 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc (21)
Rnd29: 21 sc (21)
Rnd30: 16 sc, inc, 4 sc (22)
Rnd31: 22 sc (22)
Rnd32: 17 sc, inc, 4 sc (23)

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Rnd33: 23 sc (23)
Rnd34: 17 sc, inc, 5 sc (24)
Rnd35: 24 sc (24)
Rnd36: 18 sc, inc, 5 sc (25)
Rnd37: 25 sc (25)
The leg is ready. Do not cut off the yarn. Fill the leg firmly.

BODY
We will connect the legs from the right one, making 4ch (groin)
Continue sc around the right leg to the inner side, choose the st from which we
start 4ch.
How to define the link sts on both legs: fold the legs in half and attach to each
other by inner sides, mark those sts, which you will join legs.
I choose the sts closer to the front, so that the legs are slightly clumsy.
Tip: when you link with the left leg, make 2 sc and check from above, putting the
doll, whether the chain runs straight. It is better to re-crochet several times at this stage, so that the legs stand
steady.
Rnd of link: make sc along the right leg to the chosen st, ch 4, join the left leg with 1 sc, 24 sc
around the left leg, 4 sc over the 4ch, then sl st and 24 sc around the right leg, 4 sc back side of
the 4ch, continue sc on the left leg to the middle of the outter side and place the marker - the
beginning of the rnd.
It should be 58 sc
You should stuff the body firmly as you go
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Rnds2-4: 58 sc (58)
After several rnds of the body cut the yarn from the left leg off
Count 12 sts from the center of the groin to the left leg and place the marker on
the 12th st. Work sc until you reach the marker. Work the st before the 12th st and
the 12th st together, and place marker on the dec
Rnd5: dec (marker), 22 sc, dec (marker), 31 sc,
leave the last sc unworked, because it will be
used in the dec of the following rnd (55)
In the following 4 rnds make 2 decs per rnd and take sts before the
marker and marker st for decrease. But you should follow for the
symmetry of the decs and work shift
stitch (es)
Rnd6: dec (marker), 22 sc, dec (marker),
29 sc (53)
Rnd7: dec (marker), 22 sc, dec (marker),
27 sc (51)
Rnd8: dec (marker), 22 sc, dec (marker),
25 sc (49)
Rnd9: dec (marker), 22 sc, dec
(don’t place marker), 24 sc
(48)

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Rnd10: (dec, 6 sc) * 6 (42)

Make butt, determine 24 central back sts, mark the 24th on the right hip
Rnd11: work sc till marker, 1 sc, (dec, 2 sc) * 6 times, 1 sc (place marker) (36)
Rnds12-14: 36 sc (36)
Rnd15: determine 18 front sts, mark the 1st st on the left side of the body, work sc
till marker if necessary, make inc in the 1st st (mark the first sc of the inc), 16 sc,
inc, 18 sc (38)
Rnd16: 38 sc (place marker as in 15 rnd)
Rnd17: work inc (where the marker is, and mark the 1st sc of the inc), 18 sc, inc,
18 sc (40)
Rnd18: 40 sc
Rnd19: work inc in the second st of the inc of the
17th rnd, 18 sc, inc, 20 sc (42)
Rnd20: 42 sc

Breast
Determine central front 4 sts, place
marker on the first one (left side of the
body)
Rnd21: work 4 incs before and 4 incs
after these 4 sts, other sts work sc (50)
Rnd22: 50 sc (marker is on the left
side))

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Rnd23: work incs before and after those 4 central sts, but between ins
goes 1 sc: count from the 1st st of the 4th central sts 11 sts to the left
side of the body, work inc the 11th st, (1 sc, inc) * 5 times, 4 sc (4 central
sts), (inc, sc) * 5 times, inc, 24 sc till the 1st inc of the round (62)
Rnd24: 38 sc (mark the 1st sc and the 38th sc), 24 sc (62)
Rnd25: (mark the 1st sc) 17 sc (till the 4 central sts), 2 dec (decs of these
4 central sts), 17 sc (mark the 17th sc), put aside
Don’t cut the yarn off, to continue we should crochet arms

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Arms (make two)

Place marker at the beginning of each rnd, but don’t
follow it and don’t work shift stitch (es)
Rnd1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)
Rnd2: 4 incs (8)
Rnd3: (inc, 1 sc) * 4 (12)
Rnd4: (3 sc, inc) * 3 (15)
Rnd5: 15 sc (15)
Rnd6: (dec, 3 sc) * 3 (12)
Rnd7: (dec, 2 sc) * 3 (9)
Before the following rnd prepare wire as in pictures and insert in the palm
Rnd8: (sc, dec) * 3 (6)
Take hook 1,5mm for convenience
Rnd9: 6 sc
Hook 2mm
Rnd10: (inc, 1 sc) * 3 (9)
Rnds11-13: 9 sc
Rnd14: (inc, 2 sc) * 3 (12)
Rnds15-17: 12 sc

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Rnd18: (dec, 2 sc) * 3 (9)

Rnds19-20: 9 sc
Rnd21: 1 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 1 sc (7)
Rnd22: 7 sc
Rnd23: inc, 3 sc, inc, 2 sc (9)
Rnd24: 9 sc
Rnd25: inc, 8 sc (10)
Rnds26-27: 10 sc
Rnd28: 4 sc, inc, 5 sc (11)
Rnds29-30: 11 sc
Rnd31: 8 sc, inc, 2 sc (12)
Now you should try the arm on. The palm should reach the
middle of the thigh, if not, you can work one or two rnds
more (12 sc) and then cut and fasten the yarn off
Measure the doll breast and the second arm plus 3-4 cm
and cut the wire. Make small loop at wire end and work
with fabric tape.
Start to crochet the second arm, inserting the
wire frame before rnd8

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Continue body
Continue 25th rnd of the body: join the 1st arm and work
hooking through both sts of the body and the arm (inserting the
hook from the back side of the arm) - 2 sc, 20 sc (back), join the
2nd arm and work hooking through both sts of the body and the
arm: 2 sc
Take hook 1,5 mm
Rnd26: 1 dec (mark dec), (sc, dec) * 5 times, skip 2 sts (the decs
of the 27th rnd), dec, (sc, dec) * 5 times (mark the last dec), 10 sc
along the arm, work 20 sc of the back (mark the 1st and the 20th
sc), 10 sc along the arm (62)
Rnd27: 1 sc (place marker), 20 sc front, 1 dec (the marker sts +
the st of the arm, place the marker on this dec), 8 sc along the
arm, 1 dec (marker), 18 sc along the back till marker st, dec (place marker), 8 sc along the arm, 1 dec (place
marker) (57)
Rnd28: 9 sc (breast), 1 dec, 9 sc (breast), 1 dec (place marker), 6
sc along the arm, 1 dec (place marker), 2 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc, 1 dec, 2
sc, 1 dec (place marker), 6 sc along the arm, 1 dec (place marker)
(51)
In the 29th rnd we will make shift stitch
29 ряд: 19 sc till marker (breast), 1 sc (shift stitch), 1 dec (place
marker), 4 sc along the arm, 1 dec (place marker), 15 sc (back) till
marker, 1 sc, 1 dec (place marker), 4 sc along the arm, 1 dec
(place marker) (47)

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Rnd30: 1 sc, 1 dec, 13 sc along breast, 1 dec, 1 sc, 1 dec (place marker), 2 sc along the arm, 1 dec (place
marker), 3 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec (place marker), 2 sc along the arm, 1 dec (place marker) (39)
Stuff firmly
Rnd31: 3 sc, (1 dec, 1 sc) * 3, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec (place
marker), 2 sc along the arm, 1 dec (place marker), 2 sc,
(1 dec, 1 sc) * 2, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec (place marker), 2 sc
along the arm, 1 dec (place marker) (28)
Rnd32: (1 sc, 1 dec) * 9 (remain only marker of the
beginning of the rnd) (19)
Stuff breast
Rnd33: 1 sc (place marker), (1 dec, 2 sc) * 4 (14 sc)

NECK
Rnd34-35: 14 sc (14)
Rnd36: 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc (12 sc)
Rnd37: 12 sc (12)

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Head
Stuff the head as you go, hook 2mm. Marker in the left side,
don’t follow it.
Rnd1: (1 sc, inc) * 6 (18)
Rnd2: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) * 5, 1 sc (24)
Rnd3: (3 sc, inc) * 6 (30)
Rnd4: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) * 5, 2 sc (36)
Rnd5: (5 sc, inc) * 6 (42)
Rnd6: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) * 5, 3 sc (48)
Rnd7: (7 sc, inc) * 6 (54)
Rnd8: 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) * 5, 4 sc (60)
Rnd9: (9 sc, inc) * 6 (66)
Rnds10-12: 66 sc (66)
Rnd13: 66 sc, in the center of the face we work bubble crochet sc4tog - nose (66)
Rnd14: 66 sc
Rnd15: (dec, 9 sc) * 6 (60)
Rnds16-21: 60 sc
Don’t forget to stuff
Rnd22: 4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) * 5, 4 sc (54)
Rnd23: 54 sc (54)

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Rnd24: (7 sc, dec) * 6 (48)

Rnd25: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) * 5, 3 sc (42)
Rnd26: (5 sc, dec) * 6 (36)
Rnd27: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) * 5, 2 sc (30)
Rnd28: (3 sc, dec) * 6 (24)
Rnd29: 1 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) * 5, 1 sc (18)
Rnd30: (1 sc, dec) * 6 (12)
Stuff the head firmly
Rnd31: if you don’t sew wig, gather and secure sts, fasten and cut the
yarn off
If you sew wig, leave the hole and don’t cut the yarn off
The body of our doll is ready! Watch videos about sewing wig and crocheting eyes

If you want to crochet wig into head

Work 9 rnds as above, then you should cut wig and start crochet them into head from nape, increasing the
width of them. In video I crochet wig in each 3d rnd (if you have 1 m width) from 10 to 25 rnds, then start to
crochet in each round not cutting, but if you have 2 m of wig, you can crochet them each round
(Please see video for more info). If you crochet doll for the first time, I will recommend you crochet
the head and sew wig, then you can try to crochet wig into, while working the head.

ATTENTION: take 1,5 mm hook for all sc working with wig, other sc work with 2 mm hook

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Rnd10: 66 sc (cut and crochet wig)

Rnds11-12: 66 sc
Rnd13: 66 sc, make nose (cut and crochet wig)
Rnd14: 66 sc
Rnd15: (dec, 9 sc) * 6 (60)
Rnd16: 60 sc (cut and crochet wig)
Rnd17-18: 60 sc
Rnd19: 60 sc, (cut and crochet wig)
Rnds20-21: 60 sc
Rnd22: 4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) * 5, 4 sc (cut and
crochet wig)
Rnd23: 54 sc, (cut and crochet wig)

Rnd24: (dec, 7 sc) * 6 (cut and crochet wig)

Rnd25: (dec, 6 sc) * 6 (continue crochet wig, not cutting)
Rnd26: (dec, 5 sc) * 6
Stuff the head
Rnd27: (dec, 1 sc) * 12
Rnd28: work dec to necessary diameter of the hole, than roll up wig
(about 1 cm in diameter), put into hole, gather and secure sts, fasten
and cut the yarn off.

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Straighten the wig on the top, cover with a wet towel and gently iron for 2 seconds a couple of times.

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DRESS
Hook 1 mm, cotton yarn 475/50 (2 or 3 colors)
Work 90 chain
Rnd1: 17 sc, 2 inc, 14 sc, 2 inc, 20 sc, 2 inc, 14 sc, 2 inc, 17 sc, 1 ch,
turn (98)
Rnd2: 18 sc, 2 inc, 16 sc, 2 inc, 22 sc, 2 inc, 16 sc, 2 inc, 18 sc, 1 ch,
turn (106)
3 ряд: 19 sc, 2 inc, 18 sc, 2 inc, 24 sc, 2 inc, 18 sc, 2 inc, 19 sc, 1 ch,
turn (114)
Work sleeves
Rnd4: 21 sc, ch 5 (skip 22 sts of the
sleeve), 28 sc (back), ch 5 (skip 22 sts of
the sleeve), 21 sc, 1 ch, turn (80)
Work 1 inc in the 5th round – we need 81 sts instead of 80 for the following pattern
Rnd5: 81 sc, 3 ch, turn

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Rnd6: 2 extended hdc, *skip 1 st, 2 extended hdc *,

work from * to * till the end of the rnd, 1 hdc in the
last st, 3 ch, turn
Rnd7: 2 extended hdc in the arch - between 2
extended hdc of the 6th rnd till the end of the rnd, 1
hdc in the 3d ch, 3 ch, turn
Rnds8-14: work as rnd7
In the 15th rnd work 1 dec in the back
Rnd15: 1 ch, turn, 80 sc (1 dec in any place), 1 ch,
turn

Rnd16: 1 sc, skip 3 sts, *9 dc in one st, skip 3 sts, 1 sc,

skip 3 sts * work from * to * till the end of the rnd, 1 sc in
ch, 3 ch, turn
Rnd17: dc4tog, 3 ch, 1 sc, 3 ch, * dc9tog, 3 ch, 1 sc, 3 ch *
work from * to * till the end of the rnd, dc5tog, 1 ch, turn
Rnd18: 1 sc in the body of dc, *4 sc in the 3 chain space of
the prev.rnd, 1 sc in the sc of the prev.rnd, 4 sc in the 3
chain space, 1 sc in the hole of the dc9tog of the
prev.rnd * work till the end, 1 sc in the 3d ch, 3
ch, turn

The following pattern should be start at the back side

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Rnd19: 1 dc, skip 2 sts, * (2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) in one st., skip 2 sts, 1 dc, skip 2 sts * repeat 15 times, (2 dc, 2 ch,
2 dc) in one st, skip 3 sts, 1 dc in the last st, 1 dc in the 3d ch, 3 ch, turn

Rnd20: 1 dc, skip 2 sts, * (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in 2 chain

space, skip 2 sts, 1 front post dc over the 1 dc of the
prev.rnd, skip 2 sts* repeat 15 times, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in
2 chain space, skip 2 sts, 1 dc in the last st, 1 dc in the
3d ch, 3 ch, turn
Rnd21: 1 dc, skip 2 sts, * (4 dc, 2 ch, 4 dc) in 2 chain
space, skip 2 sts, 1 back post dc over the front post dc of
the prev.rnd, skip 2 sts * repeat 15 times, (4 dc, 2 ch, 4 dc) in 2 chain space, skip 2 sts, 1 dc in the last st, 1 dc
in the 3d ch, 3 ch, turn
Rnd22: 1 dc, skip 2 sts, * (4 dc, 3 ch, 4 dc) in 2 chain space, skip 2 sts, 1
front post dc over the 1 dc of the prev.rnd, skip 2 sts* repeat 15 times, (4 dc,
3 ch, 4 dc) in 2 chain space, skip 2 sts, 1 dc in the last st, 1 dc in the 3d ch,
3 ch, turn
Rnd23: 1 dc, skip 2 sts, * (5 dc, 3 ch, 5 dc) in 3 chain space, skip 2 sts, 1
back post dc over the front post dc of the prev.rnd, skip 2 sts * repeat 15
times, (5 dc, 3 ch, 5 dc) in 3 chain space, skip 2 sts, 1 dc in the last st, 1 dc
in the 3d ch, 3 ch, turn
Continue work as Rnd 23 till the desired length of the skirt (I’ve made 10
rnds this pattern in total)
Work plackets, skirt edge and yoke top with sc two rnds:

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Rnd1: after the last pattern rnd, continue working placket, yoke top, another placket and skirt edge with sc
(making 3 or 4 chains for buttons on any placket as you like)
Rnd2: continue working plackets and skirt edge with sc, making
sc in chain space for buttons. Crochet collar: alt 2 dc, 2 extended
tr, but sleeves work as: fold it half, determine the central st,
crochet dc9tog

SLEEVES
Rnd1: make loop, insert hook in the central 3 st (of 5 armhole),
27 sc, sl st in the 1st sc (27)
Rnd2: 1 ch, 1 sc in the st from which 1 ch goes, 1 dec, 22 sc, 1
dec, sl st in the 1st sc (25)
Rnd3: 1 ch, 1 sc in the st from which 1 ch goes, 24 sc, sl st in
the 1st sc (25)
Rnd4: 1 ch, 1 sc in the st from which 1 ch goes, 1 dec, 20 sc, 1
dec, sl st in the 1st sc (23)
Rnd5: 1 ch, 1 sc in the st from which 1 ch goes, 22 sc, sl st in
the 1st sc (23)
Rnd6: 1 ch, 1 sc in the st from which 1 ch goes, 1 dec, 18
sc, 1 dec, sl st in the 1st sc (21)
Sew buttons. The dress is ready!

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SHOE
Hook 1 mm, cotton yarn 475/50 (3 colors)
Rnd1: 16 ch, 2 hdc in the 4th ch from hook, 11 hdc, 6 hdc in one
st, 11 hdc, 2 hdc in one st, sl st in the 3d ch (33)
Rnd2: 2 ch, (2 hdc in 1 st) * 3 times, 5 hdc, 6 dc, (2 dc in 1 st) * 6
times, 6 dc, 5 hdc, (3 hdc in 1 st) * 2 times, sl st in the 2nd ch (44)
Rnd3: 3 ch, 2 dc in 1 st, 1 dc, 2 dc in 1 st, 13 dc, (2 dc, 1 dc) * 2
times, (2 dc in 1 st) * 4 times, (dc, 2 dc) * 2 times, 13 dc, 2 dc in 1
st, 1 dc, 1 dc in 1 st (from which 3ch goes), sl st in the 3d ch (56)
Rnd4: 3 ch, 1 dc, 2 dc in 1 st, 2 dc, 2 dc in 1 st, 14 dc, (2 dc in 1
st, 2 dc) * 5 times, 2 dc in 1 st, 14 dc, 2 dc in 1 st, 2 dc, 2 dc in 1 st, 1 dc, 2 dc
in 1 st, 1 dc in the 1 st (from which 3ch goes), sl st in the 3d ch (68)
Rnd5: 1 ch, turn, 68 front post sc, sl st (68)
Rnds6-11: 1 ch, turn, 68 sc, sl st (68)
The next rnd12 don’t turn
Rnd12: 1 ch, 13 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc (dc2tog, 1 dc) * 4 times, dc2tog * 7 times, 1 dc,
(dc2tog, 1 dc) * 4 times, 1 hdc, 13 sc, sl st
Rnd13: 1 ch, turn, 21 sc, dc2tog * 6 times, 20 sc, sl st (47)
Rnd14: 1 ch, turn, 47 sc, sl st (47)
Continue work in spirals

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Rnd15: 3 ch, 46 dc, sl st in the 3d ch (47)

Rnd16: 3 ch, (2 dc, 1 front post dc) * 7 times, 4 dc, (1 front post dc, 2 dc) * 7
times, sl st in the 3d ch (47)
Rnd17: 3 ch, (2 dc, 1 front post dc) * 7 times, 2 decs dc, (1 front post dc, 2
dc) * 7 times, sl st in the 3d ch (45)
Rnd18: 3 ch, (2 dc, 1 front post dc) * 7 times, 1 dec, (1 front post dc, 2 dc) *
7 times, sl st in the 3d ch (44), fasten and cut off
Change to 2nd yarn, determine the central st in front top of the shoe, work
from the next st sc around, till the central st (don’t crochet the central), then
make 3ch, turn all sts work front post dc
Work chain stitch(cable) of 3d yarn color (I
took white color as in photo)
Crochet sole (Rnds1-4) of gray color yarn, outline it and cut it out from plastic,
join shoe and sole with chain stich, inserting hook through shoe and sole.
Insert insole from plastic
The shoe is ready. Make the
second one the same way

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CAP
Hook 1 mm, cotton yarn 475/50 (3 colors)
Rnd1: make double loop, work 3 ch, 17 dc into the loop, sl st in the 3d ch (18)

Rnd2: 3 ch, 1 dc in the same st (from which 3 ch goes), 17 inc, sl st in the 3d ch (36)

Rnd3: 3 ch, 2 dc in 1 st, *1 dc, inc (the inc = 1 dc

in st, 1 front post dc), 1 dc, inc. * work from * to *
8 times, 1 dc, inc (the inc = 1 dc in st, 1 front post
dc), sl st in the 3d ch (54)
Rnd4: 3 ch, 1 dc, inc, *2 dc, inc (the inc = 1 dc in
st, 1 front post dc), 2 dc, inc. * work from * to * 8
times, 2 dc, inc (the inc = 1 dc in st, 1 front post
dc), sl st in the 3d ch (72)
Rnd5: 3 ch, 2 dc, inc, *3 dc, inc (the inc = 1 dc in st, 1 front post dc), 3 dc,
inc. * work from * to * 8 times, 3 dc, inc (the inc = 1 dc in st, 1 front post dc),
sl st in the 3d ch (90)

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Rnd6: 3 ch, 3 dc, inc, *4 dc, inc (the inc = 1 dc in st, 1 front post dc), 4
dc, inc. * work from * to * 8 times, 4 dc, inc (the inc = 1 dc in st, 1 front
post dc), sl st in the 3d ch (108)
Rnd7: 3 ch, 4 dc, inc, *5 dc, inc (the inc = 1 dc in st, 1 front post dc), 5
dc, inc. * work from * to * 8 times, 5 dc, inc (the inc = 1 dc in st, 1 front
post dc), sl st in the 3d ch (126)
Rnd8: 3 ch, 5 dc, inc, *6 dc, inc (the inc = 1 dc in st, 1 front post dc), 6
dc, inc. * work from * to * 8 times, 6 dc, inc (the inc = 1 dc in st, 1 front
post dc), sl st in the 3d ch (144)
Rnd9: 3 ch, 6 dc, inc, *7 dc, inc (the inc = 1 dc in st, 1 front post dc), 7
dc, inc. * work from * to * 8 times, 7 dc, inc (the inc = 1 dc in st, 1 front
post dc), sl st in the 3d ch (162)
Rnd10: 3 ch, 7 dc, inc, *8 dc, inc (the inc = 1 dc in st, 1 front post dc), 8
dc, inc. * work from * to * 8 times, 8 dc, inc (the inc = 1 dc in st, 1 front
post dc), sl st in the 3d ch (180)
Rnd11: 3 ch, 8 dc, inc, *9 dc, inc (the inc = 1 dc in st, 1 front post dc), 9 dc, inc. * work from * to * 8 times, 9
dc, inc (the inc = 1 dc in st, 1 front post dc), sl st in the 3d ch (198)
Rnd12: 3 ch, 3 dc, * dc2tog, 9 dc, dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 front post dc, 4 dc * work from * to * 8 times, dc2tog, 9 dc,
dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 front post dc, sl st in the 3d ch (180)
Rnd13: 3 ch, 2 dc, *dc2tog, 8 dc, dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 front post dc, 3 dc * work from * to * 8 times,
dc2tog, 8 dc, dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 front post dc, sl st in the 3d ch (162)
Rnd14: 3 ch, 1 dc, *dc2tog, 7 dc, dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 front post dc, 2 dc * work from * to * 8 times,
dc2tog, 7 dc, dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 front post dc, sl st in the 3d ch (144)
Rnd15: 3 ch, 1 dc, *dc2tog, 6 dc, dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 front post dc, 2 dc * work from * to * 8
times, dc2tog, 6 dc, dc2tog, 3 dc, 1 front post dc, sl st in the 3d ch (126)

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Rnd16: 3 ch, 1 dc, *dc2tog, 5 dc, dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 front post dc, 2 dc *
work from * to * 8 times, dc2tog, 5 dc, dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 front post dc, sl st
in the 3d ch (108)
Rnd17: 3 ch, 1 dc, *dc2tog, 4 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 front post dc, 2 dc*
work from * to * 8 times, dc2tog, 4 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 front post dc, sl st
in the 3d ch (90)
Rnds18-20: change to 2nd yarn, work 90 sc in spirals, fasten and cut off.
Change back to main color
CAP-PEAK
Rnd1: 30 sc in front of the cap, turn
Rnd2: start from the 2nd st, 28 sc, turn
Rnd3: start from the 2nd st, 26 sc, turn
Rnd4: start from the 2nd st, 24 sc, 2 sc in the last st, work 5 sc in the side
edge, turn, work 29 sc, 2 sc in one st, crochet 5 sc in another side edge,
fasten and cut off
Work chain stitch between 17 and 18 rnds,
using another color yarn (I used white)

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HANDBAG
Hook 1 mm, cotton yarn 475/50 (3 colors)
Rnd1: 15 ch, 5 dc in the 4th ch from hook, 10 dc, 6 dc in the last ch, 10
dc, sl st in the 3d ch
Rnd2: 3 ch, 1 dc in the same st (from which 3 ch goes), 5 inc (dc), 10 dc,
6 inc (dc), 10 dc, sl st in the 3d ch
Rnd3: 3 ch, 1 dc in the same st (from which 3 ch goes), * 1 dc, 2 dc *
work from * to * 5 times, 11 dc, * 2 dc, 1 dc * work from * to * 6 times, 10
dc, sl st in the 3d ch
Rnd4: 1 ch, turn, 56 front post sc, sl st in the 3d ch
Rnd5: 1 ch, turn, skip 3 sts, * 9
dc in the 4th st, skip 3 sts, 1 sc in
the 4th st, skip 3 sts * work from * to * 7 times, sl st in the 1st st. (It
should be 7 fans), fasten and cut off
The following two rnds work with the other color yarn
Rnd6: make loop, insert the hook in the 5th sts of the fan, sc, 3 ch,
dc9tog, * 3 ch, 1 sc in the 5th sts of the fan, 3 ch, dc9tog * work from * to
* 6 times, sl st in the 1st st
Rnd7: 1 ch, 9 dc in the hole from dc9tog of the prev.rnd, * 1
sc in the st from 1 sc of the prev.rnd, 9 dc in the hole from dc9tog of the prev.rnd * work from * to
* 6 times, sl st in the ch, fasten and cut off

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The following two rnds work with the main color yarn
Rnd8: work as 6rnd
Rnd9: work as 7rnd
The following two rnds work with the other color yarn
Rnd10: work as 6rnd
Rnd11: work as 7rnd
Don’t cut the yarn off and crochet straps: make sl st to the desired place,
from which make 30 or 35 ch, skip 3 fans, sc in the bag st, turn, 30 or 35 sc
along the strap, sl st. Work the second strap
The handbag is ready.

EUROFATIN UNDERSKIRT
Hook 1 mm, cotton yarn 475/50 the same color as eurofatin, 4m long, 8-9cm width
Fold 4m fatin in 4 times, or 2 m in half
Rnd1: work chain stitch, inserting hook through all lays of fatin, at the top edge. Between
the sts should be about 1,5 cm.

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Rnd2: 1 ch, work FLO sc around the skirt, sl st in the 1st sc

I have 70 sts, if you have more than 85 sts, work the next rnd, doing
decs evenly to get 70 sts.
Take elastic, length is equal to the circumference of the waist, make a
knot
Rnd3: 1 ch, work sc in each sts, lay elastic
and hide it inside scs, sl st, fasten and cut
off

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PANTIES
Hook 1 mm, cotton yarn 475/50
Make ch measure to the waist, sl st, we continue to crochet right on the
doll
Rnd1: 1 ch, sc along the chain, sl st in
the 1 sc
Rnd2: work pattern «Cross dc»: 3 ch, *
skip 1 st, 1 dc, 1 dc in the st which we
skipped* work till the end, sl st in the 3d
ch (if only 1 st remains in the end, work
1 dc)
Rnd3: 3 ch, dc in each st till the end, sl st in the 3d ch.
Repeat Rnd3 1-2 times to desired length
Rnd4: 3 ch, turn, 14 dc
Rnd5: 3 ch, turn, dc2tog, 9 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc in the 3d ch
Rnd6: 3 ch, turn, dc2tog, 7 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc in the 3d ch
Rnd7: 3 ch, turn, dc2tog, 5 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc in the 3d ch
Rnd8: 3 ch, turn, dc2tog, 3 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc in the 3d ch
Rnd9: 3 ch, turn, 6 dc
Rnd10: crochet as rnd9 (if necessary you can work 1-2 rnd)
Rnd11: 3 ch, turn, 2 dc in 1 st, 3 dc, 2 dc in 1 st., 1 dc in the 3d
ch
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Rnd12: 3 ch, turn, 2 dc in 1 st, 5 dc, 2 dc in 1 st, 1 dc in

the 3d ch
Rnds13-14: 11 dc
Cut the yarn off and put it into a needle, sew parts with
slip stitches front loop only, fasten and cut off

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BRA
Hook 1 mm, cotton yarn 475/50 (2 colors)
Rnd1: 6 ch, 4 sc, 3 sc in 1 ch, 4 sc, 1 ch, turn
Rnd2: 5 sc, 3 sc in 1 st, 5 sc, 1 ch, turn
Rnd3: 6 sc, 3 sc in 1 st, 6 sc, 1 ch, turn
Rnd4: 7 sc, 3 sc in 1 st, 7 sc, 1 ch, turn
Rnd5: 8 sc, 3 sc in 1 st, 8 sc, 3 ch, turn
Rnd6: cross dc: *skip 1sc, 1 dc, 1 dc in st which we’ve skipped* repeat 4 times, 5 dc in 1 st, *skip 1sc, 1 dc, 1
dc in st which we’ve skipped* repeat 4 times, 1 dc in the last st, 1 ch, turn
Rnds7-31: 3 sc, 1 ch, turn (24 rnds), fasten and cut yarn off
Make the second piece:
Rnd1: 5 ch, 4 sc, 3 sc in 1 ch, 4 sc, 1 ch, turn
Rnd2: 5 sc, 3 sc in 1 st, 5 sc, 1 ch, turn
Rnd3: 6 sc, 3 sc in 1 st, 6 sc, 1 ch, turn
Rnd4: 7 sc, 3 sc in 1 st, 7 sc, 1 ch, turn
Rnd5: 8 sc, 3 sc in 1 st, 8 sc, 3 ch, turn
Rnd6: cross dc: *skip 1sc, 1 dc, 1 dc in st which we’ve skipped* repeat 4
times, 5 dc in 1 st, *skip 1sc, 1 dc, 1 dc in st which we’ve skipped* repeat 4
times, 1 dc in the last st, fasten and cut yarn off
Start from another side
Rnds7-34: 3 sc, 1 ch, turn (27 rnds)
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Rnd35: 3 sc
Rnd36: 1 ch, continue at the bottom, work sc
joining the second piece, 1 ch, turn
Rnd37: 1 sc, *ch3, skip 1 st, 1 sc* repeat till the
end (you should finish with sc, if it is not, skip 2
sts instead of 1), fasten and cut the yarn off
Take another color yarn
Rnd38: *3 sc in 3 chain space, 1 front post sc (over sc of the prev.rnd) * repeat till the end, fasten and cut the
yarn off
STRAPS
Insert the hook at the top (where we have 5 dc): *2 sc,
1 ch, turn* repeat approx. 28 rnds (you should try on
the doll), cut the yarn off, leaving a long tail for sewing
Sew button

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LEGGINGS
Take 1 sock and cut as in the picture below

Make felled seam at the top (inserting elastic)

Make felled seam at the bottom
We need 2 measurements
1) from waist to groin
2) the hip width
Draw the pattern on the sock as in the picture
Work leg seam

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SEWING WIG
Start from the back of the head. You start from the 12 or 13th rnd, lay the wig in spirals around the entire
circumference of the head, you can fix with needles for convenience.
Sew them to the head, leaving the distance between the rows about 1 cm.
The closer to the top of the head is the smaller the distance between the rows. When you reach the hole on the
top, you should turn the wig into a roll, sew through it, until the diameter of the roll reaches about 1
centimeter. Put the finished roll into the hole, gather
and secure the sts of the head, fasten the yarn and
cut off.
Straighten the wig, especially on the top, cover with
a wet towel and gently iron for 2 seconds a couple of
times.

Crochet eyes, sew them to the face, embroider

eyelashes, eyebrows and mouth. Give the cheeks
some color

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Your doll is ready! Congratulations!

I would love to see your finished dolls, so it would make me very happy, if you share
your pictures by tagging #gorbunova_dolls on Instagram
I hope this doll will bring you joy and happiness!
Copyright notes: ©2018 Gorbunova_dolls’ design. Finished products created with this
pattern may be used for commercial sale, provided you comply with the following:
• The items must be 100% handmade by you - the purchaser of the pattern (no
production-line allowed). Every person who uses my patterns to make items for
sale must have their own copy of the pattern.
• Any items for sale must state in the item description that they are based on
‘Gorbunova_dolls’ design’ pattern, include the name of the designer and also
include a link to my etsy shop (www.etsy.com/shop/Gorbunovadolls)
• Any items you sell based on my patterns must feature only your own photographs of
the item you have made to sell. You do not have permission to use my photographs to help
sell your work.

Text and images Copyright ©2018 by Gorbunova_dolls’ design, all rights reserved.
No pattern may be reproduced or distributed - mechanically, electronically, or by any other
means, including photocopying, without written permission. I work hard to design and write these patterns.
Thank you so much for your understanding, and happy crocheting!

Milena Doll. Gorbunova_dolls’ design 2018