This pattern doesn’t include any crochet lessons.

Difficulty: intermediate..

FROGGY
crochet pattern

Author: Kseniya
Froggy Krupskaya
Crochet Pattern
 Copyright:
C o p yr i g h t i s a typ e o f i n te l l e ctu a l p r o p e r ty th a t g i ve s me , th e o w n e r , th e
e xcl u si ve r i g h t to co n tr o l a n d ma n i p u l a te a n y a cti on s a b o u t my i n te l l e ctu a l w o rk
l i ke th i s p a tte r n , i n str u cti o n s o r p i ctu r e s i n i t. Th i s ri g h t i s p r o te cte d b y th e L a w .

D ea r cr af ter s, I d id my bes t to make th is pa tter n sim ple an d cle ar , eas y t o

u n d er sta n d an d to f o llo w , an d I s pen t a lo t o f time mak in g it. I r ea lly h o pe
t ha t yo u r es p ect m y w o r k a n d give m e a cr ed it a s t he des ign er o f th is
p a tter n in yo u r s o cia l med ia. Bu t yo u d o n 't h av e to .

T h is pa tter n is my in telle ctu al p r o per ty , a nd it is f o r yo u r p er so n a l us e o nly.

F ul l o r pa r tial co p yin g, sh ar in g (p o s tin g, s end in g, p u r ch as in g it w ith o ther
p eo p le, cr o c het ing alo n g wi th so meo n e e lse a n d so o n ) , tr an sla tin g in to
o t her la ng ua ges o r r esel ing a r e the in fr in ge men t o f m y co p yr igh t.

B u yin g th is pa tter n y o u get th e r igh t to cr ea te to y s ac co r d in g to it a nd sell

t hem b u t n o t the r igh t to d isp o s e o f th e pa tter n o n y o ur o w n. P lea se r esp ect
t he d esi gn er’ s r ig ht s!

Th an k y ou v e ry mu ch!

Ple a se c o nta ct me in a ny c on ve nie nt w a y if y o u ha v e

any que sti ons , s ug g es tio ns a b ou t the p a ttern , o r if y ou
hav e fo und a n erro r in t he instru ct ion .

Al so p lea se reme mbe r to ta g me o n y ou r f inis hed w o r k

whe n y o u use an y o f m y p at terns .

I wil l b e g la d t o g et a ny f e ed ba ck f ro m Y ou !

2
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
 Dear friends,
let me introduce myself

My name is Kseniya, and for the past four years crocheting has
been my hobby. I'm absolutely obsessed with crocheting Amigurumi
toys and photographing my toys in the best way to present my
creations. Perhaps, the idea to combine these two kinds of
expressing myself is the true reason why I'm so obsessed with
amigurumi and that is why we are both here to crochet the cutest
travel and chill lover - my Froggy.

This project became a real challenge for me.I guess this is the main
reason why it is so loved not only by me, but by many of you. Never
before I didn't remake the parts of the project so many times over
and over again to get the right shape. There is not such part that I
have crocheted
from the first time and
got it right. For example,
to get the right shape of
the eyes I needed about
10 tries, and for the final
head shape I needed 3
tries. The project became
a hard but truely a gift of
fate. It helps me to be
more patient and selfsure
in what I do.

Now I would like you to

share with me the
experience in creating the
cutest flower guy - the
most charismatic froggy.
He will bring only good
vibes and memories to
you.

3
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
materials and tools
yarn for the body in lime color Alize Cotton Gold #193/YarnArt Jeans #29,
yarn for the eyes in white color Alize Cotton Gold #62/YarnArt Jeans #03,
yarn for the cheeks in pink color YarnArt Jeans #36/Alize Cotton Gold #33,
yarn for the head in light-yellow color Alize Cotton Gold #187/YarnArt Jeans #88,
yarn for the spots in khaki color Alize Cotton Gold #29/YarnArt Jeans #82, Gazzal
Jeans #1129,
yarn for the hat in straw color Alize Cotton Gold #262/YarnArt Jeans #07,
yarn for the hat's stripe in graphite color YarnArt Jeans #28/Alize Cotton Gold #182,
yarn for the rubber ring in yellow color Alize Cotton Gold #216/YarnArt Jeans #35,
yarn for the duck's beack in orange color YarnArt Jeans #31,
yarn for the swimwear in violet color Alize Cotton Gold #44/YarnArt Jeans #72,
yarn for the lemonade in 3 colors you like, I've used pink color YarnArt Jeans #59,
beige color YarnArt Jeans #05/Alize Cotton Gold #67 and azure color YarnArt Jeans
#55,
yarn for the lemon in 3 colors you like, I've used white color Alize Cotton Gold #62,
light-yellow color YarnArt Jeans #88 and yellow color Alize Cotton Gold #216,
crochet hooks: 2 mm Clover OR 1.75 mm any other type you prefer (US 4),
a thick cardboard (I have used piece of cardboard of 20*20 cm, 1250 gr/m2) or any
polymer material which fits,
8 pieces of wire 0.4 mm dia with the length of about 23 cm, 2 pieces of wire 0.8 mm
dia with the length of about 30 cm,
adhesive woven tape bandage,
8 mm safety eyes - 2 pcs, 4 mm safety eyes - 2 pcs,
a tapestry needle for attaching the pieces,
some pins,
scissors,
markers, thread thickness:
fiberfill, YarnArt Jeans - 160m/50gr
happy vibes. Cotton Gold - 330m/100gr

For body you will need

about 50 gr, therefore it's
better to prepare 2 skeins if
you use YartArt Jeans.

Th e s e ma te r i a l s a re o n l y a l i st o f my
r e co mme n d a ti o n s to h e l p y o u c re a te th e to y
l i ke mi n e . Yo u ca n u se a n y ty p e /si z e o f th e
y a rn a n d th e h o o k, b u t yo u mu st u n d e r sta n d i t
w i l l a ffe ct th e to y' s fi n a l l o o k.

4
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
 Color palette

Alize Cotton
Gold #193

Alize Cotton

Gold #216

YarnArt
Jeans #36

Alize Cotton
Gold #262

YarnArt Alize Cotton

Jeans #55 Gold #44

YarnArt
Alize Cotton
Jeans #88
Gold #62

YarnArt YarnArt

Jeans #05 Jeans #59

YarnArt
YarnArt
Jeans #31
Jeans #82

5
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
about glue and wire

In t his pr o jec t I us ed t wo kin d s o f w ir e:

1. C o p pe r w ir e wh ic h is thi n en o u gh - fo r th e f in ger s 0. 4 mm d ia.

2. C o pp er w ir e 0 .8 mm d ia f o r d o ll' s fr a me.

If yo u d eci de n o t to us e a w ir e at all o r in to the fin ge rs , yo u can cr o ch et

wit ho u t th e f r ame .

Bu t i f yo u d ecid e no t to us e the w ir e fo r f in ger s y o u wil l n eed th e w ir e 8

mm dia o nly .

Y o u r d o ll c an be ma de w ith o ut a w ir e. B ut p leas e p a y a tten tio n , th at if

y o u do n ' t us e it - y o ur d o ll w ill n o t b e a ble to be nd its ar ms , legs an d
n ec k. A ls o it w ill p r o ba b ly no t b e ab le to h o ld its h ead str a igh t.

6
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
 factors to define how much yarn you need

1. T he fir s t an d the mo st o bv io us f ac to r is a c ro ch et ho o k si ze . If yo u u se th e
yar n men tio ne d in th e m ater ia ls lis t a nd a cr o ch et ho o k s iz e o th er th a n
r eco mmen d ed o n e, it wil l a ff ect th e amo u n t o f yar n n ec ess ar y fo r y o ur pr o jec t.
If yo u ch o o se a lar ge r cr o c het h o o k, th en y o u w ill n eed m o re ya r n an d if y o u go
fo r a s malle r cr o ch et ho o k - th en yo u w ill n eed les s ya r n th an it is sp eci fied in
th e m ater ia ls lis t.

2. T he sec on d fa cto r – y ou r ty pic a l te ns io n w h en cr o ch etin g. T h e gau ge a n d

ten sio n i s go in g t o ma ke a dif fer en ce w ith th e amo u n t o f u s ed ya r n be cau s e y o u
get m o r e o r les s sp ac e b etw een s titch es . T he tigh te r yo ur sti tch es ar e, th e l ess
yar n yo u need .

3. T h e th ir d an d ver y im po r ta nt co n d itio n – y o ur stitc he s sha pe: V -s h ap e, X-

sh ap e/s emi- X . T h e s titch s ha pe d ep en ds o n wh a t cr o c h et tec hn iq u e yo u us e –
yar n o ver o r ya r n u n d er th e h o o k.

If yo u w r a p th e th re a d , p l a ci n g th e h o o k u n d e rn e a th th e ya r n stra n d (Y a rn
U n d e r - ci rcu l a r m o ve m e n t o f th e h o o k fro m th e ri g h t to th e l e ft) – th i s m a ke s
V-s ha pe d s titc h, i f y o u p u t th e h o o k o v e r th e y a rn stra n d (Y a rn Ov e r - ci rcu l a r
mo v e me n t fro m th e ri g h t to th e l e ft) – th i s m a ke s X-s ha pe d s tit c he s , a n d i f yo u
ma k e y a rn u n d e r th e n y a rn o v e r, th i s te c h n i q u e g i ve s u s s e m i-X s titc he s. Y o u
w i l l n e e d m u ch mo r e ya r n fo r th e fa b ri c ma d e i n Y a r n Ove r te ch n i q u e co m p a re d
w i th th e a m o u n t n e e d e d fo r Ya rn U n d e r te ch n i q u e .

Wh y d id I s pec ify th e yar n d en sit y in th e ma ter ial s lis t? If yo u d on ’ t h av e th e

sa me b r an d tha t I r ec o mmen d , y o u s h o ul d u s e the ya r n w eigh t a s s ub s titu tio n
w ith a ny r is k o f mis ca lcu la tio n f o r th e to y an d c lo th es s izes .

Vi deo how to make

Yo u ca n s ca n or tap o n
th i s QR -c od e an d othe r
on es to w a tch v i d eo s.

7
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
instructionS
s t = stitc h inc = i nc r eas e ( w ith th e
M R = mag ic r in g s ame typ e o f st itch es w h ich
c h/ tch = c h ain /tu r n ing c h ain w e us e in r n d )
s l s t = s lip stitc h B L O = cr o ch et in to b ac k
s c = si ng le c r o ch et lo o p s o n ly
h dc = h alf d o u bl e c r o ch et F L O = c ro c h et in to fr o n t
d c = d o u bl e c r o ch et lo o p s o n ly
t r = tr eb le cr o ch et CL = cl us ter stitc h ( 4 d c
d ec = dec r eas e (w ith th e jo in ed a t th e to p )
s am e typ e o f stitc h es w h ich shi ft stitc h - ex tr a r egu la r
w e u se in r nd ) s titch

T h e numb er in bra ck ets a t the e nd of ev e ry ro und me a ns a to ta l numbe r of

s titc hes in the ro un d,
( … ) * n – m ea ns tha t y ou sho ul d r epe a t the c omb ina t io n o f s titc hes n time s.

I n this pa tt ern w e use U S te rmino lo g y .

C h o o se th e c o rre ct h o o k si ze w h i ch i s a p p ro p ri a te f o r th e ya r n yo u a re g o i n g to
u s e . Yo u r ch o i ce ca n b e d i ffe re n t fro m m i n e , b u t p l e a s e p a y a tte n ti o n to th e
fa ct, th a t th e si ze o f th e to y a n d th e c l o th e s w i l l b e d i ffe re n t w h e n y o u u se o th e r
y a rn a n d a n o th e r h o o k si ze .

U se a s titc h ma r ker fo r yo u r c o nv enie nc e f o r r o u n d s co u n tin g.

T h e to y is cr o c het ed in s emi- X stitc he s. S hif t s titc hes a r e ca lcu la ted p r ecis ely
f o r th is tec hn iq u e. If yo u cr o ch et the s titch es w it h Y ar n O ver s , th en Y o u w ill
n eed to d eter min e the s ymmetr y o f th e pie ces a nd t h e nu mb er o f s hi ft s titc he s
a n d th eir lo ca tio n b y yo u r sel f.

S tu ff a ll th e pi eces a s yo u go , ti gh t ( un les s o th er wi se sta ted ), gr a d ua lly ad d ing

s ma ll po r tio n s o f s tu ff in g a n d f or m ing n ec ess ar y s ha p es o f p ieces .

A b ou t c ol or cha ng in g. I re co mmen d to c h an ge co lo r in th e las t stitc h o f a

r o u n d , b efo r e yo u sta r t th e ro u n d with a n ew co lo r . Wo r k t his las t st itch w ith
t hr ea d o f a n ew c o lo r in th e f o llo w in g w ay : pu ll u p a lo o p w ith the ya rn yo u 'r e
w o r ki ng w ith an d th en fin is h w ith the ya r n o f n ew c o lo r .

A b ou t de c rea se s. I ma ke in vis ibl e d ec r eas es - w o r k in F L O, b u t it's eas ier to

m ake c las sic d ec r eas es in to so me s titch es - in b o th lo o ps .

T h e f r o ggy is 25 c m/9. 84 in ch es tall in ca se of u s i ng th e ma ter ial s li sted a n d

c r o ch etin g in semi -X s titc h.
8
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
 how to make
an invisible edge
Her e I w an n a s ho w yo u h o w I en d th e cr o ch etin g in t he r o u n ds by ma kin g
in vis ib le e dge .

1. In se rt th e n eedl e in th e stitc h c o un tin g 2 st itch es b efo r e yo u r las t on e.

Pu ll it o ut .
2. I n ser t th e need le b etw een f r on t a nd ba ck lo o p s o f th e st itch bef o r e y o ur
las t o ne. Pu ll it o u t.
3. Ma ke s ur e th e thr ea d is tigh t eno u gh . Th a t is all .

9
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
Part 1.
Froggy
arms 1
Wit h the yarn of l ime col or #193. Make
two.

Start crocheting from the fi ngers. There

are 8 fi ngers: 6 pcs 1 rnd longer and 2
thumbs which are 1 rnd shorter.

The thumbs are 1 rnd shorter (7 rnds in the thumb).

Start crocheting from the thumb (1st finger), next
crochet 3 more fingers with the regular length.

1. 6 sc i n MR (6)
2. (sc, i nc)*3 (9)
3. 9 sc (9)
4. (sc, dec)*3 (6)
5 -8. 6 sc (6) 4 rn ds, fasten o f two re gu l ar 2
fi n ge rs ( 2n d и 3 rd ), d on 't stu ff.

Starti ng from t he 4th finger we crochet the

the hand:

1. 3 sc along the 4th finger on the hook, 3

sc along t he 3rd finger, 6 sc along the 2nd
finger, 3 sc al ong the 3rd fi nger, 3 sc
al ong the 4th finger (рi с. 2), put the
marker (18)
2. 18 sc (18)
3. (4 sc, dec)*3 (15)

1-st hand:
4. 3 sc through the 1st (t humb) finger and
the hand, 12 sc al ond the hand (15) 3
5. 3 sc through the 1st (thumb) finger, 12
sc al ong the hand (15)

2- nd hand:
4. 5 sc along the hand, 3 sc through the 1st
(thumb) finger and the hand, 7 sc along the
hand (15)
5. 5 sc along the hand, 3 sc through the 1st
(thumb) finger, 7 sc along the hand (15)

11
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
Pr ep a r e th e w ir e fo r the fin ger s : tak e th e
p iece o f w ir e ab o u t 23 c m lo n g f o r eac h
fi ng er a nd b end th e l oo p o n its end ( рiс . 4) . 4
N ext we need to wr a p the wir e wit h t he
a dh es ive wo v en ta pe b an d age s tar tin g fr o m
th e l o op o n th e l eng th little b it mo r e th at
th e len gth o f t he f ing er ( рiс . 5)

If the layers of the tape bandage are thick, you

wouldn't be able insert the wire into the fingers.

In s er t t he w ir e i nto ea ch f in ger a n d tw is t its

fr ee en d s a r o un d eac h o th er , w r a p th e
tw is ted en d s w ith th e th in la yer o f th e
a dh es ive wo v en ta pe b an d ag e ( рi с. 6 ).

6. ( 3 sc , d ec) *3 (1 2)
7. 12 sc ( 12) , s tu ff th e h an d a l ittle bit 5
8. ( 2 sc , d ec) *3 (9 )
9 -3 4 . 9 sc (9 ), 2 6 rn d s, fa s te n o ff.

D on ' t cu t the w ir e.

If y o u 'r e u si n g th e fr a me d o n o t stu ff th e a r ms,

stu ff o n l y th e h a n d a re a a l i ttl e b i t.

Rep eat w ith th e 2nd ar m, s tar ti ng fr o m th e

fi ng er s.

66 7

12
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
body and legs 8
Wi th t he yarn of li me col or # 193.
Start crocheting from the bottom of the body,
next going to the legs and after that we will go
back to the body.

1. 8 sc i n MR (8)
2. 8 i nc (1 6)
3. (sc, inc)*8 (24)
4. (2 sc, i nc)*8 (32), f asten of f ( рi с. 8).

Going to the toes. As we did it in hands we start

from the toes (3 pcs for each leg), next we join
them to the foot. Make 2 toes for the 1st leg
and fasten them off, don't cut the thread on the
3rd toe and continue to crochet the foot:
9
1. 6 sc i n MR (6)
2. (sc, i nc)*3 (9)
3. 9 sc (9)
4. (sc, de c)*3 (6)
5. 6 sc (6)
6. 3 sc along the 3rd toe, 3 sc along the 2nd
toe, 6 sc along the 1st toe, 3 sc along the
2nd toe, 3 sc along the 3rd toe (18) (рiс. 9),
put the marker.
7-10. 18 sc (18), 4 rnds, stuff the toes
11. (4 sc, dec)*3 (15)
1 2 - 1 5 . 1 5 sc ( 1 5 ), 4 rn d s
16. (3 sc, dec)*3 (12)
17. 12 sc (12), make 1 shi f t st, the end of
the rnd must be placed on t he si de edge of
the foot , stuff the f oot ( рiс. 10). 6 10
Maki ng the he el of the fo ot:
18. 6 sc, ch, turn the work,
3 dec, ch, turn the work,
triple dec (crochet 3 sc together), put the
marker (рiс. 11,12).

Prepare the piece of the wire about 30 cm long,

wrap the loop on the end of it with the thin
layers of the adhesive woven tape bandage (рiс.
13).
19. 2 sc along the side of the heel of the foot, 6
sc along the foot, 2 sc along the side of the heel
13
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
of the foot, 1 sc along the foot (the poi nt
where we worked 3 sc t oget her) (11), insert
the wire int o the foot (рiс. 14).
11
20. 9 sc, dec (10), stuff the heel of the foot

Next stuff the leg as you crochet.

2 1-5 0. 10 sc ( 10 ), 3 0 rn ds
51. (4 sc, i nc)*2 (12)
52. 12 sc (12), make some shi ft sti tches.

You need to make it according to your thread tention.

Tne number of shift stitches can be different.

The marker on the 2nd leg must be pl aced

i n the middl e of t he back side (рi с. 20), for
the 1st one t he place is not so i mportant.

1st leg:
8 sc, fasten off. 12
2nd leg:
19 sc, don't cut the thread, conti nue to
crochet the body and go back to the bott om
of the body, whi ch we had crochet before
the toes.
Now we need to mark the stitches on the
bottom of the body symmetrical ly: 6 st for
ech leg, 6 st on t he back of the body and 14
st on the bell y (рiс. 20).
In the beginning of the 5t h r nd of the body we
will cr oc het in the opposit e dir ect ion along
the 2nd leg, but clockwise (a s usual) f or the
body (рiс. 2 1).

136 14

14
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
 15 16

17 18

196 20
ba c k

leg

1st
2nd le g
leg be lly

15
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
 21 22

5. 6 sc through the 2nd leg and the body, 14 sc

along the belly, 6 sc through the 1st leg and the
body, 6 sc alond the back (32)
6. 6 sc along the 2nd leg, 14 sc along the belly,
6 sc along the 1 st leg, 6 sc along the back (32), 23
put the marker (рiс. 23). Now the start of the
rnd will be placed here.

Stu ff th e b o d y a s yo u c ro c h e t, o th e rw i se i t w i l l
b e p ro b l e ma ti c to ma ke i t n e a t a n d ti g h t e n o u g h .

7. (3 sc , i nc )*8 (40)
8. (4 sc, inc)* 8 ( 48)
9. (5 sc, inc)* 8 ( 56)
10. (6 sc, inc)*8 (64), stuff the leg, bend and twist
the wire (рiс. 24-26).
1 1 -1 6. 6 4 s c (6 4 ), 6 rn d s, stu ff
17. (6 sc , d ec)* 8 ( 56)
1 8 -2 3. 5 6 sc (5 6 ), 6 rn d s

24 25

16
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
Next for forming the shape of the belly we
need to mark 19 st in the middle of the back
(рiс. 27).
26

Depending on where your marker is placed,

make some shift stitches till the left pin. I
made 7 shift sts and put the marker. Now the
rnd starts here.

24. (dec, 3 sc)*8, 16 sc (48)

25-30. 48 sc (48), 6 rnds

Mark 18 stitches in the middle of the back

again (рiс. 29).

Crochet shift stitches if it is needed till the left pin or

maybe unravel some already crocheted stitches. I have
unraveled 2 stitches.
27

31. (dec, 2 sc)*8, 16 sc (40)

32-34. 40 sc (40), 3 rnds

Next we need to mark the stitches on the body

symmetrically: 4 stitches for each arm, 14
stitches on the back and 18 stitches on the
belly.

The marker must be placed at the last of 14

stitches of the back (рiс. 30-31).

28 29

17
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
 30 31
ba ck

a rm

be lly

35. 4 sc through the 1st arm and the body

(рiс. 32), 18 sc along the belly, 4 sc
through the 2nd arm and the body, 14 sc
along the back (40) 32
36. 5 sc along the 1st arm (рiс. 33), 18 sc
al ong the bel ly, 5 sc al ong the 2nd arm, 14
sc along the back (42)

Twi st the wire ends around each other (pay

att ention to the neck area - it must be t hin
enough), wrap it and continue to crochet
(рiс. 34).

37. (5 sc, dec)*6 (36)

38. 36 sc (36)
39. (4 sc, dec)*6 (30)
40. (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)

33 34

18
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
41. (sc, dec)*8 (16)
42. (2 sc, dec)*4 (12)
35
Now it's time to make a deal with the
end of the wire which is left. Bend it and
twist free ends so that about 5-6 cm of
the wire were out of the body (рiс. 35).

It's necessary for holding the head and

for the neck to be able to bend in any
direction. At the same time the wrapped
part of the neck must be not thick and
you wouldn't have to stuff the neck, but
only crochet around the wire.

I have wrapped the wire with a thin layer

of adhesive woven tape bandage after
twisting again.
36
43-49. 12 sc (12), 7 rnds, leave a long
tail for sewing and cut the thread.

37

19
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
 head 38
With the yarn of lime color #193.

Make ch5, from the 2nd ch from the hook:

1. inc, 2 sc, 3 sc into 1 ch, on the other side

- 3 sc (10)
2. 2 inc, 2 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc, inc (16)
3. 16 sc (16)
4. (sc, inc)*8 (24)
5. 24 sc (24)
6. (2 sc, inc)*8 (32)
7. 32 sc (32)
8. (3 sc, inc)*8 (40)
9. 40 sc (40)
10. (4 sc, inc)*8 (48)
11. 48 sc (48) 39
12. (5 sc, inc)*8 (56)
13. 56 sc (56)
14. (6 sc, inc)*8 (64)
15-16. 60 sc (64), 2 rnds
17. (7 sc, inc)*8 (72)
18-19. 72 sc (72), 2 rnds
20. (8 sc, inc)*8 (80)
21. 80 sc (80), make 3 shift sts, marker
must be placed on the side edge of the
head. Change the yarn to light-yellow color
#187 and cut the lime yarn .
22. BLO: 80 sc (80)
23. (8 sc, dec)*8 (72)
24. (7 sc, dec)*8 (64)
25. (6 sc, dec)*8 (56)
26. (5 sc, dec)*8 (48) 40
27. (4 sc, dec)*8 (40)
28. (3 sc, dec)*8 (32)
29. (2 sc, dec)*8 (24), stuff
30. (sc, dec)*8 (16)
31. (2 sc, dec)*4 (12), fasten off.

Please pay attention to the shape of the head during the

stuffing. It's very important that the shape of the head
was look like a triangle with the wide foundation (cheeks
area) - the color changing line.

20
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
eyes 41
With the yarn of white color #62.
Make ch10, from the 2nd ch from the hook:
1. 8 sc, 4 hdc into 1 ch, on the other side - 8 sc
(20)
2. 3 sl st, 5 sc, 4 hdc inc, 5 sc, 3 sl st (24)
3. (3 sc, inc)*2, (hdc, hdc inc)*4, (inc, 3 sc)*2
(32), insert the safety eyes (рiс. 42).

You can choose any placing of the safety eyes.

Depending on them the gaze of the froggy can be
different. I placed the safety eyes on the inner edge
of the white part: between the 2nd and the 3rd rnds.
You can find the variations on the page with
assembling.

Close the back of the eyes. And I recommend 42

melting them. I use a household lighter. But
be careful at this step, your crocheted piece
could get damaged, stained or even burnt
when doing so. Press the melted part of the
back side of the eye with a lighter or a knife
to secure it.

4-5. 32 sc (32), 2 rnds

6. (2 sc, dec)*8 (24)
7. (sc, dec)*8 (16), stuff it
8. 8 dec (8), close the hole through the front
loops, fasten off.

43 44

21
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
Next we will crochet the eyelids with the
yarn of lime color #193, make two.
45
Make a ch10, from the 2nd ch from the
hook:

1. 8 sc, 4 hdc into 1 ch, on the other side -

8 sc (20)
2. 3 sl st, 5 sc, 4 hdc inc, 5 sc, 3 sl st (24)
3. (3 sc, inc)*2, (hdc, hdc inc)*4, (inc, 3
sc)*2 (32)
4-7. 32 sc (32), 4 rnds, fasten off and leave
a long tail for sewing.

46
cheeks
With the yarn of pink color #36, make two.

8 sc in MR (8), leave a long tail and cut the

thread.

spots
With the yarn of khaki color #29, you make
any quantity you want. I've made 10 small
spots and 3 big ones.
47
Small spot: 8 sc in MR (8), leave a long tail
for sewing and cut the thread.

Big spot: 8 hdc in MR (8), leave a long tail

for sewing and cut the thread.

22
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
assembling
1. Sculpting.
To make the eyes fit bett er on the head, you shoul d make t he scul pti ng -
hol lows under t he eyes. Mark 7 sti tches wi th t he pins (рiс. 48) between rnds
11 and 12. Insert the t hreaded needle into point 1. Make a longwi se stit ches
from point 2 to point 3 and from point 5 to point 4 (рi с. 49). Pull out the
needl e from point 6.

Pul l both free tai ls of the thread until you have t he hol lows deep enough
(рiс. 51-52) and make a knot. Insert the eyes int o the eyel ids, pi n it (рiс. 53)

48 49 50
4 2

5 3

6 1

51 52 53

and check the result. Maybe you need to loose the t ention or otherwi se make
i t stronger. If it is needed, pul l t he thread tail s agai n and make one more
knot. Cut the thread and fasten off.

23
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
 54 55 56

2 . Se w the e y es a nd the c he ek s.
A s I men tio ne d in p a ge 21, d ep en din g o n the 57
sa fety eyes p lac in g ( рiс . 54- 56) , th e ga z e o f
f r o ggy c an be d iff er en t. C h o o se th e o n e yo u li ke
th e mo s t, o r c r eate yo u r o wn . S ew t he eyes lid s,
b u t do n ' t c u t t he th r ead .

P u t th e ey es in to tw o h o llo w s , th at y o u fo r med
du r in g sc ulp tin g (р iс. 57- 58) , p in th e eyes a nd
s ew t hem to th e hea d s tr o n g eno u gh . I r eco mmen d
to s ew it w ith sh o r t inv isib le s titch es .

Don't make the thread tention during a sewing too tight, so

that the edge of the eyelids can look natural, not the
58
pilfered - without folds.

A f ter yo u s ew the eyes , p in th e c hee ks un d er th e

ey es (рiс . 5 8- 59) a nd sew th em t hr o u gh the b ac k
lo o p s o n ly if yo u w a nt the m to lo o k co n vex a n d
th r o u gh th e b o th lo o ps if y ou w an t th em to lo o k
f lat.

3 . S ew the he a d.
P u t t he h ead o n th e w ir e stic kin g fr o m th e nec k
a n d p in th e h ead to it (p ic . 60 ). M ake su r e th e
h ea d is p la ced str a igh t.
59
I lik e th e tec h niq u e of th e c faf tma ker
@ littl ef ish. cro c het erie . I t's r eall y n eat an d
in vis ib le tech n iqu e o f a tta ch in g th e piec es
to g eth er .

P ay yo u r a tten tio n , th at th e w ir e mus t be in ser ted

in to the he ad d eepl y en o u gh . Stu ff th e h ea d tigh t
a s yo u sew .

24
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
 60 61

I n ser t a n eed le u p in to t he stitc h o f th e

n ec k, th en ca tch a sti tch o f th e h ead w ith
a ne edle, as if p ier cin g th is s titc h w ith a
n eed le - in s er ting a n eed le in to a s titc h 62
b ef o re i t a n d p u llin g it o u t fr o m th e n ext
s titc h.

P a y a tte ntio n, If y o u w an t th e h ea d to be
i n t he midd le w ith o u t a ny sh if tin g, wo r k in
t he “ s titch to s titch ” tec hn iq u e. D o n 't
f o r get to s tu ff th e h ead wh ile s ewin g a nd
u s e th e p in s to h elp th e p r o ces s o f
a tta ch in g it.

T h is i s h o w th e hea d lo o k s af ter
s ew in g (p ic 64) . V er y n eat.

63 64

25
Kse n iy a K ru pskay a • F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
 65 66 67

5. Se w th e spo ts.
Depending on how many spots you crocheted 68
you can place them on the body in a very
different ways. I tried to place them to look
like it was random and assymetrically. And
in the same time I wanted them to be seen
from the front and the side look too.

I placed two big spots on the bottom of the

back and one on the back side of the head.

Pin the spots (рiс. 65-67), don't be rush

with its placing and sew them with short 69
invisible stitches through the back loops
only if you want them to look convex and
through the both loops if you want them to
look flat.

I prefer the convex look. You can see how I

placed the spots in рiс. 68-70.

70

26
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
Part 2.
accessories
hat 71
Wit h th e yar n o f stra w co lo r #262.

1. 8 s c in M R (8 )
2. 8 in c ( 16)
3. (s c, in c)* 8 (24 )
4. (3 s c, inc )* 6 ( 30)
5. (4 s c, inc )* 6 ( 36)
6. (5 s c, inc )* 6 ( 42)
7. (6 s c, i nc )* 6 ( 48)
8. (7 s c, inc )* 6 ( 54)
9. (8 s c, inc )* 6 ( 60)
10. ( 9 sc , in c) *6 (66 )
11. ( 10 sc , in c) *6 ( 72)
12. B L O: 72 sc ( 72) 72
1 3 -1 4 . 7 2 sc (7 2 ), 2 rn d s, ch a n g e th e ya rn
to gr a phit # 2 8 fo r th e stri p e , b u t don't c ut
th e th re a d o f th e m a i n co l o r.
1 5 -1 6 . B LO: 7 2 s c (7 2 ) , 2 rn d s, ch a n g e th e
ya rn to s tr a w co l o r # 2 6 2 , cu t th e gr a phit
th re a d a n d fa ste n o ff.
17. B LO : 72 sc ( 72)
18. FR L : ( sc , in c) *36 ( 108)
1 9 -2 0 . 1 0 8 s c(1 0 8 ), 2 rn d s
21. ( 11 sc , in c) *9 ( 117)
2 2 . 1 1 7 sc ( 1 1 7 ), ma ke a n i n vi si b l e e d g e
a n d fa ste n o ff.

73 74

28
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
rubber ring 75
Wi th the yarn of yel low color #216.

Make ch64, next make sl st into the 1st ch

(рiс. 75). Pay attenti on that the chain
must be not twi sted.

1. 64 sc (64)
2. (7 sc, inc)*8 (72)
3. (8 sc, i nc)*8 (80)
4. (9 sc, i nc)*8 (88)
5. (10 sc, i nc)*8 (96)
6. (11 sc, inc)*8 (104)
7. (12 sc, i nc)*8 (112)
8-1 3. 1 12 sc (1 12 ), 6 rn ds (рi с. 76 )
14. (12 sc, dec)*8 (104) 76
15. (11 sc, dec)*8 (96)
16. (10 sc, dec)*8 (88)
17. (9 sc, dec)*8 (80)
18. (8 sc, dec)*8 (72)
19. (7 sc, dec)*8 (64), (рi с. 77)
20 -24 . 6 4 sc ( 64 ), 5 rn ds, l ea ve a l o ng tai l
fo r se wi n g ab ou t 40 cm l on g an d fa ste n off
(рi с. 78 ).

Fold rnds 20-24 inwards to get t he look of

donut, li ke i n рiс. 79.

77 78

29
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
Now we need to sew two edges of the
rubber ring together with the thread, which
we have left. 79
Use the overedge seam working with the
front loop of the 24th rnd and the loop of the
1st one (рiс. 80), leave a non-sewn hole
about 3 cm (рiс. 81).

Stuff the rubber ring tight enough and sew the

hole, stuff it.

You can use sushi stick or back end of the hook during
stuffing the rubber ring for more comfortable work.

DU CK' s HE AD
Wit h th e yar n o f y e llo w c o lo r #2 16.
1. 6 s c in M R (6)
2. 6 in c (12 )
3. (s c, in c)* 6 (18)
4. (2 s c, inc )* 6 ( 24) 80
5. (3 s c, inc )* 6 ( 30)
6. (4 s c, inc )* 6 ( 36)
7. (5 s c, inc )* 6 ( 42)
8 -1 3 . 4 2 s c (4 2 ) , 6 rn d s
14. (5 s c, d ec )*6 ( 36)
15. (4 sc, dec)*6 (30), insert the safety eyes
between rnds 10 and 11, leaving 10 stitches
appart.
16. (3 s c, d ec )*6 ( 24)
17. ( 2 sc , d ec) *6 (18 )
18. (sc, dec)*6 (12), leave a long tail for
sewing and cut the thread, stuff the head.

81 82

30
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
BE A K
Wit h th e yar n o f o ra ng e c o lo r # 31.
83
Ma ke ch 9, fr o m th e 2 nd ch fr o m th e h o o k:

1. in c, 6 s c, 3 sc in to 1 ch , o n t he o th er
sid e - 7 s c (1 8)
2. 18 sc ( 18) , leav e a lo n g tai l f o r s ewi ng
an d c ut th e th r ead .

Pu t all p ar ts o f th e ru b b er r in g to g hete r
us in g pi ns an d s tar t th e as semb ly.

84 85

86 87

31
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
Sew th e b eak bet wee n th e ey es o n th e
hea d fir s t. I h ad to w o rk o nl y w ith the
88
fr o n t l oo p s .

Nex t sew th e hea d t o th e b o dy o f t he

ru b b er r in g. C h o o se th e r ig ht p lac e, fi x th e
hea d w ith th e p in s an d s ew it o n, li ke y ou
ha d s ew n the f r o ggy h ea d - w ith sh o r t
inv isib le s titch es .

89

32
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
swimwear 90
Wi th t he yarn of viol et color #44, crochet
in turni ng rows, don't forget to turn the
work i n the end of each row.

Make ch23 and l eave a long tail in the

beginning, from the 2nd ch from the hook:

1-18. BLO: 22 hdc, ch, turn the work (22),

18 rnds
19. BLO: 18 hdc, 5 ch (22)
20. BLO: from the 2nd st from the hook: 22
hdc (4 hdc along the chain and 18 hdc along
the work) (22)
21-37. BLO: 22 hdc, ch (22), 17 rnds
38. BLO: 4 sl st, ch, 18 hdc (22), leave a long 91
tail for sewing (рiс. 90).

Fold the work in half and sew the swimwear

through the back loop of 38th row and the
loop of the 1st one, which we had left after
the 38th row, using stich to stich seam (рiс.
91). Fasten off.

Using the tail of the thread that we had left

in the beggining of crocheting, sew the
bottom of the swimwear (рiс. 93). Fasten
off.

92 93

33
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
Next we will crochet the belt. Attach the
thread of violet color #44 to the seam
94
area on the back (рiс. 94) and crochet
along the edge into every hole, but do
not overtight the work.

Quantity of the stitches can be different, it is

not important. The main thing is that the belt
wasn't too tight and can be dressed on the
froggy’s belly.

I h a ve 68 sc . C ro c h et 3 r o u n ds w ith o u t
ch an gin g an d m ake an in visi ble ed ge.
Fas ten o f f (р iс. 95) .

Nex t w e ma ke th e c or d f o r t he s w imw ear

fr o m th e y ar n o f wh ite co l or #62 .
95
Ma ke ch 10 0 (p la ce it a ro u n d the f r o ggy ’s
bell y b ef or e co n tin u ein g). If n eed ed ma ke
the c ha in lo n ger .

Ma ke the kn o ts o n th e en d s o f th e co r d
an d c ut th e th r ead (рiс . 96 -9 7).

If yo u like p o lka d o t, yo u ca n m ake it o n

the sw im wea r u si ng a Fr en ch k no t
tech n iqu e.

96 97

34
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
 98 99 100

F renc h kno t tec hniq ue .

1. Pull out the needle with the thread of 101
white color in the random place (рiс. 98).

2. Yarn over the working thread on the

needle 2-3 times (the more times you do that,
the bigger the knot will be), keep the thread
in tension (рiс. 99).

3. Insert the thread near the place where it

was pulled out, holding it during that for
making the knot neat (рiс. 100).
102
Y ou r F r enc h kn o t is r ea dy (p i с . 101) . Rep eat
th es e s tep s a s man y tim es, as n eed ed .

I ns er t th e c o rd th r o u gh th e b elt r o u n ds o f the
s w imw ear a n d no w the sw im wea r o f yo u r Fr o g gy
is co mp letely ma d e!

35
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
lemonade 103
Wit h the yarn of pi nk col or #59.

1. 8 sc in MR (8)
2. 8 inc (16)
3. (sc, inc)*8 (24), draw an outline on cardboard
(or any other polymer material) around the
contour of the part and cut it out (рiс. 103).
4. (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
5. BLO: 30 sc (30)
6-11. 30 sc (30), 6 rnds, change the yarn to
beige #05
12. BLO: 30 sc (30)
13-15. 30 sc (30), 3 rnds
16. (4 sc, inc)*6 (36), insert the cardboard
into the part 104
17. BLO: 36 sc (36)
18. (4 sc, dec)*6 (30)
19. (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)
20. 24 sc (24)
21. (2 sc, dec)*6 (18)
22. (sc, dec)*6 (12)
23. 6 dec (6), change the yarn to azure #55
24. BLO: 6 sc (6)
25-30. 6 sc (6), 6 rnds
31-32. BLO: 6 sc (6), 2 rnds
33-35. 6 sc (6), 3 rnds, make an invisible edge,
fasten off (рiс. 105).

105 106

36
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
Bend t he tube at sharp angl e around 31-
32 rnds. 107
Attach the bei ge yarn #05 to the front
loo p of the 16t h round ( рi с. 106):

36 sc (36), make an i nvi si bl e edge, fast en

off .

LEMON
Start wi th t he yarn of whi te col or #62.

1. 8 sc in MR (8), don't close the MR, change

the yarn to light-yellow color #88
2. 8 inc (16)
3. (sc, inc)*8 (24), change the yarn to yellow
color #216 (рiс. 108)
4. Fold the part in half, hide all thread tails and 108
crochet 12 sc through both sides, fasten off.

Sew the lemon in the way that non-closed

MR was fit exactly to convex in the 16th
round of lemonade cup.

109 110

37
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2
No w y o ur jo yfu l F r og gy o n v ac atio n is r ead y fo r a ny ad ven tu r es, w h ich c an b e
b r o ug ht b y th e s ea b r eez e a n d th e bes t vac ati on s e v er .

It 's ti me f o r s u n ny d ay s!

That is it.

Thanks for your interest

to my work and see you
soon!
38
F ROG GY pa tt e rn • 20 2 2