Bad Boy Mowers Service Manual

Section 1 Hydrostatic System …………………………. Pg. 02

Section 2 Drive Belt ……………………………………….. Pg. 09

Section 3 Engine ……………………………………………. Pg. 12

Section 4 Electrical System ……………………………. Pg. 20

Section 5 Frame Maintenance ……………………….... Pg. 25

Section 6 Cutting Deck …………………………………… Pg. 37

Section 7 Mowing Tips ……….…………………………… Pg. 46

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SECTION 1: HYDROSTATIC SYSTEM

TO CHANGE HYDRO OIL ON COMMERCIAL MODELS, REMOVE OIL

RETURN LINES FROM TOP OF HYDRO TANK AND PLACE THEM IN
A DISPOSABLE OIL CONTAINER. START AND RUN MOWER
UNTIL OIL LEVEL IS REDUCED DOWN TO ABOUT 2” OF OIL
REMAINING IN THE TANK. DO NOT ALLOW AIR TO ENTER THE
OIL LINES IN THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK. KEEP IN MIND THAT
ONLY ABOUT 75% OF THE HYDRO OIL CAN BE CHANGED AT A
TIME. USE ONLY 20W50 MOTOR OIL IN THE HYDRO SYSTEM.

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CHANGE HYDRO OIL FILTERS BY UNSCREWING THEM FROM THE
FILTER HEAD. FILL NEW FILTERS WITH 20W50 MOTOR OIL
BEFORE INSTALLING. USE ONLY BAD BOY REPLACEMENT
FILTERS. USING ANY OTHER FILTER WILL RESULT IN DAMAGE
TO THE HYDRO SYSTEM AND VOID THE WARRANTY.

3
 ONCE THE SYSTEM IS REFILLED WITH OIL, LIFT REAR OF
MOWER UNTIL TIRES ARE OFF THE GROUND. START ENGINE,
RELEASE PARKING BRAKE, STAY CLEAR OF MOVING REAR
TIRES, LOOSEN BYPASS BOLT ½ TO ¾ TURNS, MOVE DRIVE
ARMS FORWARD AND BACKWARD 4 TO 6 TIMES SLOWLY. THIS
WILL PURGE THE AIR FROM THE SYSTEM.
(THE BYPASS BOLT HAS A HOLE DRILLED THROUGH THE SIDE
OF THE BOLT HEAD). THIS VALVE ALSO SERVES AS A NEUTRAL
FOR MOVING THE MOWER WITHOUT THE ENGINE RUNNING.

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 THE HYDRO OVERFLOW TANK ON A ZT MODEL IS LOCATED
BEHIND THE SEAT. NOTICE THE “FULL COLD” LINE AT THE
BOTTOM OF THE TANK. USE ONLY 20W50 MOTOR OIL IN THIS
TANK.

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WHEN SERVICING A LIGHT DUTY COMMERCIAL MOWER WITH A
SEALED TRANSAXLE UNIT, START BY REMOVING THE FILTER
SKID PLATE ON THE BOTTOM OF EACH UNIT. THE SKID IS HELD
ON BY THREE 10MM BOLTS. NEXT, REMOVE THE FILTER. THE
FILTER ALSO SERVES AS THE OIL DRAIN. EACH TRANSAXLE
HOLDS ABOUT 2 QUARTS OF HYDRO OIL. REINSTALL NEW
FILTERS AND SKID PLATES. USE ONLY HYDRO-GEAR FILTERS.
USE OF ANY OTHER TYPE OF FILTER WILL RESULT IN DAMAGE
TO THE HYDRO SYSTEM AND VOID THE WARRANTY.

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 THE CHECK PLUG IS LOCATED AT THE TOP CENTER OF THE
INSIDE CASE OF EACH TRANSAXLE. THE TRANSAXLE CAN BE
FILLED WITH OIL BY REMOVING THESE CHECK PLUGS FROM
BOTH TRANSAXLES AND POURING THE OIL IN THE HYDRO
OVERFLOW TANK, LOCATED BEHIND THE SEAT. OIL WILL
BEGIN TO RUN OUT OF THE CHECK PLUG HOLES WHEN THE
TRANSAXLES ARE FULL. USE ONLY 20W50 MOTOR OIL IN THE
HYDRO SYSTEM.

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 ONCE THE SYSTEM IS FILLED WITH OIL, LIFT REAR OF MOWER
UNTIL REAR TIRES ARE OFF THE GROUND. START ENGINE,
RELEASE PARKING BRAKE, STAY CLEAR OF MOVING REAR
TIRES. NEXT, PULL THE NEUTRAL BYPASS LEVERS (LOCATED
AT THE REAR OF THE FRAME, ON EITHER SIDE OF THE
MUFFLER), MOVE THE DRIVE ARMS FORWARD AND BACKWARD
4 TO 6 TIMES SLOWLY. THIS RELIEVES ANY AIR THAT MAY BE
TRAPPED IN THE SYSTEM. IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO ADD
MORE OIL TO THE HYDRO OVERFLOW TANK AFTER 10-15
MINUTES OF RUNNING. THESE BYPASS LEVERS ALSO SERVE
AS A NEUTRAL FOR MOVING THE MOWER WITHOUT THE ENGINE
RUNNING.

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SECTION 2: DRIVE BELT

SHOWN ABOVE IS THE AOS/DIESEL PUMP BELT TENSIONER.

TIGHTENING THE TWO ¾”JAM NUTS ON THE LEFT SIDE WILL
INCREASE THE BELT TENSION ON ALL MODELS. FACTORY
SETTING IS ABOUT .030” (ABOUT THE THICKNESS OF A CREDIT
CARD) BETWEEN COILS AS SHOWN BELOW.

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SHOWN ABOVE IS A TYPICAL PUMP BELT TESIONER FOR PUP

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 AND LIGHTENING MODELS.

SHOWN ABOVE IS A TYPICAL PUMP BELT LAYOUT FOR MOST

COMMERCIAL MODELS.

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SECTION 3: ENGINE

SHOWN ABOVE IS A KAWASAKI ENGINE WITH THE “QUICK

DRAIN” OIL DRAIN LOCATED ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE ENGINE.
USE A FLAT SCREW DRIVER AS SHOWN TO LOOSEN THE DRAIN.

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 MOST MODELS HAVE A DRAIN HOSE INSTALLED ON THE
ENGINE, FOR EASIER OIL CHANGES. ALL GAS ENGINES USED
BY BAD BOY HAVE AN OIL CAPACITY OF 2 QUARTS. BAD BOY
RECOMMENDS THAT THE OIL AND FILTER BE CHANGED EVERY
50-60 HOURS OF USAGE.

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 THE FUEL FILTER IS LOCATED IN THE FUEL LINE ABOUT 12”
FROM THE CARBURATOR ON THE SIDE OF THE ENGINE. NOTE
THE DIRECTION OF FLOW ON THE SIDE OF THE FILTER.
REPLACE ONCE A YEAR.

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 MOST ALL MODELS HAVE A VACUUM OPERATED FUEL PUMP
BOLTED TO THE SIDE OR TOP OF THE ENGINE. THE PUMP HAS
A “FUEL IN”, A “FUEL OUT”, AND A VACUUM LINE COMING FROM
THE ENGINE BLOCK. FUEL FLOW CAN BE CHECKED HERE IF
THE PUMP IS SUSPECTED TO BE DEFECTIVE.

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WHEN SERVICING THE FUEL SYSTEM ON THE CAT DIESEL, IT IS
NECESSARY TO PURGE THE AIR FROM THE SYSTEM BY
LOOSENING THE 9/16” BOLT ON TOP OF THE FUEL FILTER AND
PUMPING THE FUEL BULB (LOCATED UNDERNEATH THE
RADIATOR) UNTIL AIR BUBBLES ARE NO LONGER VISIBLE.

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REMOVE AND INSPECT AIR CLEANER WEEKLY. (MORE OFTEN IN
DUSTY CONDITIONS). DO NOT BLOW FILTER OUT WITH AIR
PRESSURE, THIS WILL CAUSE THE FILTER TO BE FILLED WITH
TINY HOLES THAT WILL ALLOW DIRT TO ENTER. INSTEAD, TAP
FILTER ON SIDE TO REMOVE ANY DEBRIS. REPLACE AT LEAST
ONCE A YEAR, MORE OFTEN IN DUSTY CONDITIONS.

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TORQUE THE CLUTCH BOLT TO 50 FT. LBS. ON ALL MODELS.
RETORQUE AT EVERY OIL CHANGE.

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 KEEP RADIATOR SCREEN CLEAN AND FREE OF DEBRIS ON
LIQUID COOLED MODELS. CHECK SCREEN HOURLY DURING
DRY CONDITIONS. SLIDE RADIATOR SCREEN UP TO REMOVE.

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SECTION 4: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

ON MOST LARGER COMMERCIAL ENGINES (27 HP AND UP). THE

25 AMP MAIN FUSE IS LOCATED ABOUT 3” FROM THE STARTER
ON THE ENGINE.

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ON SMALLER COMMERCIAL AND LIGHT DUTY COMMERCIAL
MOWERS, THE 25 AMP MAIN FUSE IS LOCATED JUST BEHIND
THE BATTERY CONNECTED TO THE STARTER SOLINOID.

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 ALWAYS CHECK THE CONDITION OF THE WIRING HARNESS
GROUND CABLE. THE GROUND IS LOCATED JUST INSIDE OF
THE RIGHT SIDE FUEL TANK ON MOST MODELS. ENSURE THAT
THE GROUND IS CONNECTED, CLEAN, AND TIGHT. ON SOME
MODELS, THIS WIRE MAY BE CONNECTED TO THE NEGATIVE
SIDE OF THE BATTERY.

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 CHECK THE CONDITION AND CONNECTION OF THE RELAYS
LOCATED UNDER THE SEAT. ENSURE THAT THEY ARE CLEAN
AND CONNECTED. MAKE SURE THAT WIRE TERMINAL ENDS
HAVE NOT BEEN PUSHED OUT OF THE RELAY BLOCK.

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ON MOST MODELS, THE RED WIRE COMING OUT OF THE ENGINE
IS THE CHARGING WIRE FROM THE ALTERNATOR. CHECK FOR
13.6 - 14.2 VOLTS DC AT THIS WIRE WITH ENGINE AT FULL
THROTTLE.

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SECTION 5: FRAME

FOR NON-SUSPENSION MODELS, TORQUE FRONT FORK CASTLE

NUT TO 40 [Link]. BE SURE TO SPIN THE FORK WHILE
TORQUING THE NUT TO ENSURE THAT NO BEARING DAMAGE IS
DONE.

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 BE SURE TO REINSTALL THE COTTER PIN INTO THE CASTLE
NUT. ALWAYS TRY TO GO TIGHTER ON THE NUT TO FIND A
CASTLATION FOR THE PIN TO FIT IN. NEVER BACK THE
BEARING TENSION OFF AFTER TORQUING THE NUT, THIS WILL
“SPRING” THE BEARING CAGE.

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PICTURED ABOVE IS THE BEARING ASSEMBLY FOR MOWERS
EQUIPPED WITH SUSPENSION 2009 AND NEWER. THIS SETUP
REQUIRES A TORQUE OF 53 FT LBS. NEVER BACK THE BEARING
TENSION OFF AFTER TORQUING THE NUT, THIS WILL “SPRING”
THE BEARING CAGE.

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TORQUE REAR WHEEL LUGS TO 65-75 [Link]. RETORQUE AT
EVERY OIL CHANGE.

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 THERE IS ONE GREASE FITTING IN EACH FRONT WHEEL AND
ONE IN EACH FRONT CASTER BEARING HOUSING. GREASE AT
EVERY ENGINE OIL CHANGE.

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THERE IS ONE GREASE FITTING ON EACH OF THE ACTUATOR
BAR PILLOW BLOCKS LOCATED UNDER THE FUEL TANKS.
GREASE TWICE A SEASON.

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THE PUMP BELT TENSIONER IS LOCATED UNDER THE ENGINE
AND HAS A GREASE FITTING AT ITS PIVOT POINT. GREASE AT
EVERY ENGINE OIL CHANGE.

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THE DECK BELT TENSIONER IS LOCATED AT THE REAR OF THE
DECK AND HAS A GREASE FITTING ON ITS PIVOT POINT.
GREASE AT EVERY ENGINE OIL CHANGE.

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THE CONTROL ARM BLOCKS HAVE GREASE FITTINGS LOCATED
ON THE TOP AND BOTTOM OF EACH BLOCK. GREASE ONE TIME
A YEAR.

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 WHEN ADJUSTING THE TRACKING ON THE MOWER, THE
LENGTH OF THE PUSHRODS CAN BE CHANGED BY SCREWING
THE SWIVEL JOINT IN OR OUT ON THE ENDS OF THE RODS.
SHORTENING THE OVERALL LENGTH OF THE ROD SLOWS THE
PUMP DOWN. LENGTHENING THE ROD WILL INCREASE THE
SPEED OF THE PUMP.

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ON COMMERCIAL MODELS, THE REACTION OF THE HYDRO
PUMPS AND THE RESISTANCE FELT IN THE CONTROL ARMS
CAN BE ADJUSTED BY MOVING THE PUSHRODS OR THE
DAMPENERS UP OR DOWN IN THE MOUNTING HOLES.
MOVING DAMPENERS UP, LESS RESISTANCE.
DAMPENERS DOWN, MORE RESISTANCE.
MOVING PUSHRODS UP, SLOWER REACTION.
PUSHRODS DOWN, FASTER REACTION.

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TO SERVICE THE PARKING BRAKE SYSTEM, THE REAR BRAKE
ASSEMBLY REQUIRES A HUB PULLER TO REMOVE THE BRAKE
DRUM AS SHOWN ABOVE. THE AXLE NUT MUST BE REPLACED
AND TORQUED TO 200 [Link]. BE SURE TO REINSTALL THE
COTTER PIN.

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SECTION 6: CUTTING DECK

TO REMOVE THE DECK BELT, LIFT UP ON THE BELT WHILE

ROTATING THE PULLEY TO ROLL THE BELT UP AND OFF OF THE
PULLEY. (BE SURE NOT TO GET YOUR FINGERS BETWEEN BELT
AND PULLEY).

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 TO CHECK THE LEVEL OF THE DECK, START ON A FLAT
SURFACE AND SET THE AIR PRESSURE IN ALL FOUR TIRES.
RAISE THE DECK UP, AND MEASURE ALL FOUR CORNERS OF
THE DECK TO SEE IF IT IS LEVEL FROM LEFT TO RIGHT AND
FRONT TO BACK. ALL DECKS SHOULD BE LEVEL FROM LEFT TO
RIGHT AND HAVE A ¼” PITCH DOWN IN THE FRONT.

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 IF DECK ADJUSTMENTS ARE NECESSARY, START WITH THE
CHAIN LENGTH ADJUSTERS. THESE ADJUSTERS AFFECT THE
OVERALL HIEGHT OF THE DECK AND THE LEVEL FROM LEFT TO
RIGHT.

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THE LARGE TURN BUCKLES ON THE FRONT OF THE DECK ONLY
AFFECT THE PITCH OF THE DECK OR THE LEVEL FROM FRONT
TO BACK.

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THE DECK SPRING TENSION IS CRITICAL. IF THE TENSION IS
TOO MUCH, IT WILL CAUSE THE SPRING TO BREAK. IF TOO
LOOSE, THE BELT CAN JUMP OFF OR SLIP ON THE PULLEYS
AND CAUSE A CUT QUALITY ISSUE. WITH THE DECK UP, THE
SPRING COIL GAP SHOULD BE ABOUT .025” - .030”(ABOUT THE
THICKNESS OF A BUSINESS CARD). SPRING TENSION
ADJUSTMENTS CAN BE MADE BY SLIDING THE BOLT SHOWN
ABOVE FORWARD OR BACKWARD IN THE SLOT OF THE DECK.

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 ON AN AOS/DIESEL MODEL, ADDITIONAL DECK BELT
ADJUSTMENTS CAN BE MADE BY SLIDING THE REAR “V” IDLER
PULLEYS UP OR DOWN IN THEIR SLOTS.

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 THE CONDITION OF THE BLADES CAN DRASTICLY AFFECT THE
CUT QUALITY OF THE MOWER DECK. REPLACE AS NECESSARY.
THESE BLADES WERE USED CONSIDERABLY TOO LONG.
RESHARPENING IS RECOMMENDED BY PROFESSIONALS ONLY
TO DETERMINE WHEN THE BLADE NEEDS TO BE REPLACED AND
BECAUSE OF THE NEED FOR REBALANCING.

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 TO CHANGE BLADES, IT MAY BE EASIER TO USE A PIECE OF
WOOD TO KEEP THE BLADE FROM TURNING SO THAT THE BOLT
CAN BE LOOSENED. RETORQUE THE BLADE BOLTS TO 90 - 110
[Link].

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THE BLADE SPINDLES CONTAIN A SEALED BALL BEARING IN
THE TOP AND BOTTOM OF THE SPINDLE. THE BEARINGS ARE
REPLACEABLE FOR A MORE COST EFFECTIVE REPAIR.

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Mowing tips:
• Mow header strips at the ends of the lawn and around flower
beds first. Make them wide enough that you can turn the mower
around in the already mown section. Then mow back and forth
between these header strips overlapping each lap by about 1/8
the width of the mower's deck.

• Don't cut your grass too short, particular for cool season
grasses. Higher heights usually provide for a deeper root
system, looks better, and is less likely to have weeds invading,
particularly crabgrass.

• Don't remove any more than one third of the grass leaf at any
one cutting. If circumstances arise that a lawn gets too tall and
you just have to lop off a bunch to get caught up, bite the bullet
and break it down into several mowings to get caught up with 3
or so days between cuttings.

• NEVER SCALP YOUR LAWN. Scalping severely damages the root

system to such a degree that it may die.

• Avoid mowing when the grass is wet or when it's dark

• Avoid throwing grass clippings into the street and driveway

where they can be washed into the sewer system. After mowing,
clean up driveway and walkways.

• When mowing remove only a third with each cutting (except for
the first mowing of the season when it's ok to remove more).
You can safely leave clippings that will quickly decompose and
add nutrients back into the soil. Contrary to popular opinion,
grass clippings do not add to thatch buildup. Grass blades are
made up of about 75% water.

• Mow your lawn in a different direction with each mowing,

especially with lawns of shorter grass types. Altering the
direction ensures a more even cut since grass blades will grow
more erect and less likely to develop into a set pattern.

• Keep your mower's blade sharp, which means having it

sharpened several times during the mowing season. Keep
several blades around so you'll always have a sharp one on
hand. Sharp blades cut the grass cleanly and help mulch
clippings into small pieces which break down quickly.

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 • Don't forget to change your mower's oil at least once during the
mowing season. For brand new mowers, change the oil after
about 5 hours of operation during the initial break-in period.

• At the end of the mowing season use a fuel stabilizer in the

remaining gasoline

• In the spring, don't use that old gas unless you properly used a
fuel stabilizer, it can cause a number of problems. Better to use
fresh gasoline to begin the new mowing season.

• Leaf blade A demonstrates what a leaf blade should look like

after mowing with a sharp blade.

• Leaf blade B demonstrates a leaf blade that was injured by a

dull mower blade.

• Leaf blade C was cut by the mower but indicates that the
mower blade is not sharp enough. The shredded white tissue
protruding from the leaf blades C and D is the vascular tissue of
the plant.

• Leaf blade D has been mown for quite some time with a dull
mower blade.

To bag or mulch?
Grass clippings do not contribute to thatch buildup or increase the
chances of disease. If you mow your lawn at the right height, without
removing any more than 1/3 of it's total height, clippings will quickly
breakdown without a trace. These clippings contribute additional
nitrogen and other nutrients to the soil and supply it with additional
organic materials. Clippings from a 1000 sq. ft. lawn can add as much
as 1 - 2 pounds of nitrogen back into the soil.

If you have a compost pile, then you may want to bag your clippings
occasionally to add much needed green-matter to the compost pile.

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Make sure it is mixed thoroughly with brown matter to avoid a strong
ammonia odor. DO NOT COMPOST CLIPPINGS after applying any weed
control or weed-feed type product. Before adding clippings to the
compost pile wait at least 3 mowings after these products have been
applied.

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