TM

Free 8-shaft
Weaving Patterns
for the 8-shaft Loom

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 8-shaft project
virginia west

structure A shimmering scarf in

advancing point twill
Advancing point twill.

equipment
8-shaft loom, 9" weaving
width; 12-dent reed;
1 shuttle. tencel and twill are perfect partners for
Yarns showing off color, shine, and drape.
Warp: 8/2 Tencel (3,360
yd/lb, Webs), Iris, Red 1. Draft
Purple, and Royal, 145 yd 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8
each; Blue Ming, 73 yd. 7
6 6
7 7
6 6
7
6
7 7
6
7 7 7
6 6 6
7
6
Weft: 8/2 Tencel, Red, 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
375 yd. 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
warp length ← cont'd /
/
8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8
203 ends 21⁄2 yd long 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7
/
/
(allows 3" take-up, 27" 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 /
/
5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
loom waste; loom waste 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 /
/
3 3 3 3 3 /
includes fringe). 2 2 2 2 /
1 1 1 1 1 /

setts 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8
← cont'd
/
/
/
7 7 7 7 7 7 7 /
Warp: 24 epi (2/dent 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 /
/
in a 12-dent reed). 5
4 4
5 5
4
5
4
5 5
4
5
4 4
5
/
/
Weft: 24 ppi. 3 3 3 3 3 3 /
2 2 2 2 2 2 /
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 /
Dimensions ← cont'd /
/
2. Warp color order 8 8 8 /
Width in the reed: 81⁄2". 7 7 7 7 /
29 29 Blue Ming /
6 6 6 6
Woven length (measured 58 29 29 Royal
5 5 5 5 5 /
58 29 29 Iris /
under tension on the 58 29 29 Red Purple
4 4 4 4 4 4 /
3 3 3 3 3 /
203
loom): 60". Finished size 2 2 2 2 /
1 1 1 1 /
after washing: 7" × 58" /
/

T
with 6" twisted fringe. Virginia west’s studio, with its stunning view of his scarf has been selected to /
/

Baltimore harbor, houses her two big looms. /

appear in Sixty Scarves for /
/
Sixty Years, a future publication /
/
celebrating the sixtieth anniver- /
/
/
sary of the Weavers Guild of /
/
Greater Baltimore. /
/
/

1
/
Wind a warp and prepare the /
/
loom using your preferred method /
/
following Figures 1 and 2. Weave /
/
following Figure 1 for 60", allowing /
/
8" at each end for fringe. /
/

2
/
remove the scarf from the loom /
/
and prepare a twisted fringe with 12 /
/
virginia west

ends in each fringe; secure with an /

/

overhand knot. Wash by hand and /

/
/
lay flat to dry. Press.

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OR ALL PAGES IN THIS ISSUE TO BE COPIED FOR PERSONAL USE. [Link]
5 © F+W MEDIA, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. F+W MEDIA GRANTS PERMISSION FOR ANY
OR ALL PAGES IN THIS ISSUE TO BE COPIED FOR PERSONAL USE. [Link]
 TIP: I use satin cording, sold by the yard in fabric stores,
to spread the warp. To do this: Weave 4–6 picks with the
8-SHAFT PROJECT cording without beating, leaving loops at the selvedges.
Then pull the beater forward to align the warp threads.
Later, you can pull on the loops to remove the cording.
CARRY WILCOX
STRUC TURE

Cashmere/silk and bamboo shawl

Atwater-Bronson lace,
turned overshot,
and plain weave.

EQUIPMENT
8-shaft loom, 19" weaving
TO S H O W O F F A S P E C I A L YA R N , I T S H O U L D F LO AT I N
width; 15-dent reed; T H E WA R P, E S P E C I A L LY I F I T I S A VA R I E G AT E D YA R N .
weight for supplementary
warp; 1 shuttle.

YARNS
Ground warp and weft:
C ashmere is often used by knitters for lace
sweaters or lightweight shawls. It is amazing
to think that it has an insulating quality greater
from the fine. After dehairing the resulting fine
fiber cashmere is ready to be spun into yarn.
Much of this work is done by hand.
2-ply bamboo (2,100 yd/lb, than sheep’s wool. Cashmere comes from To showcase such a special yarn, I used a draft
Bambu 7, Cotton Clouds),
Cashmere goats, whose fleece consists of a fine, designed by Barbara Walker that features a
Dusty Peach, 1,402 yd.
soft undercoat comingled with a straighter and a narrow band of overshot as a supplementary warp
Pattern warp: 45% cash-
coarser outer coat of guard hair. The fiber must be on a ground cloth of bamboo, another soft yarn
mere/55% silk (400 yd/
55 g skein, 3,320 yd/lb, dehaired, a process that separates the coarse hairs that compliments the cashmere/silk.
Cashmere Silk, Jade
1. Draft for shawl 10x 15x 45x
Sapphire Yarns), Blue 1 2 3 4 5
This draft is from 7
Spruce, 114 yd. 6 6
Barbara Walker in 5 5 5

WARP LENGTH “One Shuttle and 3 3

4 4
3
4

Two Weaves,” The 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

277 ends bamboo, Best of Weaver’s:
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
/
cashmere/silk dent together (dent others 1/dent)
38 ends cashmere/silk Overshot is Hot! 19x /
/

3 yd long (allows 6" for Madelyn van der

/
/
/
take-up, 36" for loom Hoogt, ed. Sioux /
/
waste; loom waste Falls, South Dakota: /
/
includes fringe). Add 2 yd XRX, 2008, pp. 72–75. 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 /
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 /
for each additional shawl; To balance, stop here on last treadling repeat.
/
/
* /
there is enough /

1 3
/
cashmere/silk in one You can choose one of several Remove the fabric from the loom /
/
skein for three shawls. warping methods for this project. and prepare a twisted fringe with /
/
/
SET TS You can wind and thread the supple- 6 ends per fringe; secure each /
/

Warp: 15 epi (1/dent in a

mentary warp as a separate chain fringe with an overhand knot. /
/
/
15-dent reed) for plain and weight it, or you can wind both /

4
/
weave and lace; 30 epi warps together. If you beam both Soak in Synthrapol or mild deter- * /
/
17x

(2/dent) in supple- warps, raise shafts 3 through 7 and gent for about 20 minutes in the /
/
/
mentary warp areas. loop a cord (just above the warp washing machine. Without agita- /
/
Weft: 15 ppi. beam) around the supplementary tion, spin out water, rinse, and /
/
/
warp when it gets loose and add spin out again. Tumble in the /
DIMENSIONS weight (a plastic water bottle works dryer for 10–15 minutes along /
/
/
Width in the reed: 187⁄8". with clean dish towels or bed- /
well); the weight will slide to rest /
Woven length (measured /
under the warp beam). sheets without allowing to dry /
under tension on /
completely. Hang the shawl on a /

2
/
the loom): 66". /
Allowing 6" for fringe, weave the padded rod to finish drying. Press, /
Finished size after /
washing: 161⁄2" × 611⁄2" shawl following the treadling in moving the iron in the warp /
/

plus 4" twisted the draft. Adjust the weight on direction to bring out the sheen /
/
/
fringe at each end. the supplementar y warp as and align the cashmere ends. The /
/

needed. On the 17th repeat, end bamboo and cashmere shrink at

at the * to balance the pattern. similar rates in this project.
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 <.<. .>.>
45% cashmere,
55% silk

T he cashmere portion of this yarn

contributes incredible softness and
capacity for insulating warmth. The silk
adds strength and can accept intense
colors, which is especially important
for these luscious hand-dyed varie-
gated yarns. The yarn is available in
seventy colorways.

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8-SHAFT PROJECT

COREEN HARTIG
STRUC TURE

Pacific Waves in
Plain weave
and twill.

EQUIPMENT
8-shaft loom,
10" weaving width;
15-dent reed;
Tencel and bamboo
1 shuttle, 1 bobbin,
blunt tapestry needle.

YARNS Warp once and weave two scarves that capture the constantly changing
Warp: 8/2 Tencel colors and movement of the Pacific Ocean.
(3,360 yd/lb, WEBS),
Lake Combo
(variegated), 963 yd,
Navy and Grayed Teal , I have always loved the ocean—
the colors, the movement of the
waves, the sound, and the smell of
1. Warp color order
2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x
450 yd each. 72 8 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Teal
Weft: Bambu 12 the salt water. Every morning 72
154 9 8 8
1
8
2
8
3
8
4
8
5
8
6
8
7
8
8
8
8 Navy
9 Lake Combo
(6,300 yd/lb; when I walk my son to the bus 292

Cotton Clouds), stop, we look out at the Pacific

Emperor Blue, 820 yd Ocean to admire its constantly changing 2. Draft
for collapse-weave scarf; colors. I wanted to weave a scarf that would 2x 18x
410 for plain-weave scarf. capture the colors and movement of the
8 8 8 8 8 8
7 7 7 7 7 7
6 6 6 6 6 6
WARP LENGTH ocean. I found the perfect combination with 5 5 5 5 5 5

298 ends 6 ⁄4 yd long

1 a variegated Tencel yarn of blues and teals, 4
3
4
3
4
3 3
4
3
4

(18" for sampling, 8" for Bambu 12 for weft, and a collapse-weave 2
1
2
1
2
1 1
2
1
2

take-up, plus 35" for structure that creates pleats or furrows in the floating selvedge
/
/
plain weave

loom waste and fringe). fabric. The closely sett warp also allowed me /
/
to weave a warp-dominant plain-weave scarf /

SET TS on the same warp.

/

Warp: 30 epi (2/dent

in a 15-dent reed).

1 3
Weft: 36 ppi for collapse
Wind a warp of 298 ends following Figure 1. Remove fabric from the loom. Prepare a
scarf; 18 ppi for warp-
Use your preferred method to warp and twisted fringe at both ends of both scarves.
faced plain weave.
thread the loom, following Figure 2.
DIMENSIONS
Width in the reed: 10".
2 Spread the warp with scrap yarn using
treadles 1 and 2. Sample as desired for 18".
4 Wash the pleated scarf in hot water in the
washing machine with mild detergent on a
regular cycle. Dry in the dryer on medium
Woven length (measured
under tension on the Allowing 7" for fringe, weave 2 picks of heat to help set the pleats.
loom): 75", collapse- plain weave, then hemstitch encircling
weave scarf; 75" plain- every 4 ends within the warp stripes to Handwash the plain-weave scarf in warm
weave scarf. encourage pleating in the scarf. Weave the water with a mild soap. Lay flat to dry.
Finished sizes scarf for 75" following the twill treadling. When almost dry, put in the dryer on a
Collapse-weave scarf, End with 2 picks of plain weave and hem- gentle cycle for 10 minutes. Press on a
4" x 671⁄2" plus 4" twisted stitch. Allowing 14" between scarves, rayon setting to bring out the sheen of the
fringe; plain-weave scarf, weave the second scarf in plain weave, yarns.
81⁄2" x 70", plus 4" twisted beginning and ending with hemstitching
fringe. as for first scarf.

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 Designing for Collapse
To create the pleats, this collapse-weave scarf alternates
warp- and weft-faced stripes. When removed from the
loom and washed, the stripes collapse, creating pleats
where only the warp-faced stripes appear. In this scarf,
block A (shafts 1-4) warp stripes appear on one side of the
scarf, while block B (shafts 5-8) stripes appear on the other.
I arranged the warp stripes so that one side of the pleated
scarf shows only the variegated yarn, while the other side
shows stripes gradually moving from teal to navy.
For a collapse weave to work, the warp sett must be
closer than normal, the weft must be beaten closer than
normal, and the weft needs to shrink more than the warp
during finishing. Unless you want a scarf that resembles
the weight of chain mail, the weft needs to be a much
finer yarn, as well. For this scarf, Bambu 12 meets all of
these needs: it is much finer than the 8/2 Tencel warp,
shrinks more, and sets the pleats better.
For a collapse weave, you also need to plan warp stripes
based on the fiber type and size. I found a helpful article in
Fabrics That Go Bump (see Resources). And of course,
one must sample, sample, sample to find just the right
combination of sett, beat, and fiber.

Resources
Field, Anne. Collapse Weave: Creating Three-Dimensional Cloth.
North Pomfret, Vermont: Trafalgar Square, 2008.
van der Hoogt, Madelyn. “A perplexing plethora of pleats.” The
Best of Weaver’s: Fabrics That Go Bump. Sioux Falls, South
Dakota: XRX, 2002, pp. 60–65.

MONTH/MONTH 200X HANDWOVEN | 57

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Weave Your Next Masterpiece!
Valley Yarns 20/2 Silk is a beautiful spun silk that is available in 30 lustrous colors.
Weave it into a stunning fabric that has beautiful drape and delicate sheen.
100% spun silk | 8.8 oz (0.56 lb)/cone | set: 30–40 epi | hand wash cold, dry flat | $67.99/cone, discountable
Featured Project: Valley Yarns Draft #63 Advancing Twill Scarf $3.99 PDF Download

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