Skip to content
anicka.design
Sewing pattern drafting made easy.
MENU +EXPANDEDCOLLAPSED
How To Easily Draft A Basic Sleeve Pattern?
anicka.design Home » How To Easily Draft A Basic Sleeve Pattern?
The basic set-in sleeve pattern is one of the most important sewing patterns for dressmaking. You may
add pleats, folds, flounces, or gathers to the sleeve and create endless variations of an otherwise very
simple and basic design.
This tutorial is designed for a basic, long set-in sleeve and woven fabric.
This page also contains a basic sleeve block calculator that will make drafting easier for you. Based on
your body measurements, it computes parts of the sleeve pattern that need to be calculated. These will
be shown in individual parts of the step-by-step drafting guide on this page.
This page contains:
Anatomy of the set-in sleeve pattern
How to distinguish the FRONT and BACK sleeve pattern parts
Tools you need to draft the pattern
Taking body measurements
Basic set-in sleeve pattern calculator
Step-by-step instructions on drafting the sleeve pattern
Conclusion
Anatomy of the set-in sleeve pattern
The image below describes the individual parts of the sleeve pattern, which are: the sleeve cap, cap
height, side seams, underarm, overarm parts, and sleeve hem (wrist for a long sleeve). The sleeve cap
might be also referred to as the sleeve head or sleeve crown. I will use the term “sleeve cap” as it is
more common than the other ones :).
Individual parts of the basic set-in sleeve pattern with labels.
The FRONT and BACK sides of the sleeve pattern are NOT reversible. Keep this in mind when tracking the
pattern onto the fabric.
The shape of the sleeve cap
As you can see in the image below, the sleeve cap has a different shape at the FRONT and the BACK part
of the pattern. At the FRONT, both the over-arm and under-arm curves are more prominent (or curved)
than the ones at the BACK. This is due to the anatomy of the shoulder (I mean the actual shoulder 🙂 and
the function of the arm. So, let’s just briefly dive into it.
Anatomy of the set-in sleeve pattern cap.
The prominent FRONT underarm cap: you need more space at the FRONT underarm, to be able to reach
forward. You do not and also cannot reach in the same way backward.
The prominent FRONT overarm cap: the sleeve has to accommodate the prominent bone of the
shoulder at your front in contrast with the back where the shoulder blade is flat and shallow.
That being said, you may come across many various tutorials on drafting the set-in sleeve. However, all
have one in common: the different shapes of the FRONT and BACK sleeve caps.
How to identify the FRONT and BACK if it is not labeled?
Just fold the pattern in half along the centre line and compare the curves of the sleeve cap and
determine the FRONT and BACK (see the image below).
A pattern folded in half along the centre of the sleeve in order to distinguish the FRONT and BACK part.
Tools you need to draft the pattern block
To draft the basic set-in sleeve pattern you will need the following:
the bodice you are drafting the sleeve for *
large sheet of paper or tissue paper
long ruler
French curve
pencil
Sharpie (thin marker)
* Either prepare the bodice pattern or the actual garment you are drafting the set-in sleeve for. Make
sure the bodice is not designed as a sleeveless one. Follow my tutorial, If you wish to draft your very
own basic bodice pattern based on your body measurements.
In the images in this tutorial, some of the lines are grey and some are black. I recommend drawing the
grey lines with a pencil. These lines are mainly guidelines that are supposed to help you with positioning
individual parts of the pattern. The black lines are the ones of the sleeve pattern itself. Use a Sharpie
(thin marker) to draw them.
Taking body measurements
Take measurements of your arm according to the illustrations below. While doing so, make sure your
tape measure is neither too tight nor too loose.
As you measure, you can enter the arm measured values into the calculator below. If you do so, the
taken measurements and calculated measurements for the pattern pieces will be included in the step-
by-step tutorial below.
Basic set-in sleeve block pattern calculator
Centimeters Inches
Upper arm circumference
Circumference:
30
cm
Upper arm (biceps) circumference measurement taken with a tape measure.
Wrist circumference
Circumference:
16
cm
Wrist circumference measurement taken with a tape measure.
Arm length
Length:
55
cm
Measuring the arm length from the tip of the shoulder to the wrist with a tape measure.
Cap height
Cap height:
15
cm
Measuring the cap height of a sleeve from the tip of the shoulder to the armpit line with a tape
measure.
Bodice FRONT armscye length
Armscye length:
23
cm
Basic bodice FRONT sewing pattern with armscye and waist darts.
Bodice BACK armscye length
Armscye length:
24
cm
Basic bodice BACK sewing pattern with armscye and waist darts.
Seam allowance
cm
The amount of seam allowance is used to calculate approximate fabric consumption for the basic set-in
sleeve pattern.
We do not store, nor share any data you put into the form above.
How to draft the basic sleeve pattern step-by-step
Drawing a long vertical line on a blank sheet of paper.
On the prepared sheet of paper draw a long vertical line.
Marking the distance between the shoulder tip and wrist that will be the sleeve/arm length.a
At the top of the paper, draw a small marking called shoulder. At the bottom mark the wrist. The
distance between the two is your measured arm/sleeve length.
a = measured arm length
Marking the arm length on a vertical line that is the centre of a basic sleeve pattern.b
Draw a marking for the upper arm line.
You have measured this distance from the tip of your shoulder to the armpit line.
b = measured cap height
Marking the arm length on a vertical line that is the centre of a pattern.
Draw the upper arm (biceps) line and the wrist (hem) line.
Marking the arm length on a vertical line that is the centre of a pattern.cd
On the upper arm line, mark the underarm seams. The distance between the shoulder and the
underarm marking is calculated according to the following formula:
c = (bodice FRONT armscye + bodice BACK armscye)/2
d = (bodice FRONT armscye + bodice BACK armscye)/2
Marking the arm length on a vertical line that is the centre of a basic sleeve pattern.
Connect the shoulder and underarm seam markings. These two diagonal lines are the base for drawing
the basic set-in sleeve cap.
Now, measure the distance between the two underarm seams. It should be larger, than the
circumference of your biceps.
Marking the arm length on a vertical line that is the centre of a basic sleeve pattern.e
Divide both diagonal lines you have drawn in the previous step into quarters. Each quarter has the same
length (in this tutorial labeled as e). Mark A, B, C, D, E and F.
e = (diagonal line length)/4
Marking the arm length on a vertical line that is the centre of a basic sleeve pattern.
From the diagonal lines, square out short markings towards the outside or inside of the diagonal lines.
You will use them to draw the sleeve cap.
Use the following measurements:
A (inside): 1 cm (3/8″)
B (outside): 0,5 cm (1/4″)
C (outside): 1,5 cm (5/8″)
D (outside): 1,8 cm (3/4″)
E (outside): 0,8 cm (1/4″)
F (inside): 1,3 cm (5/8″)
Marking the arm length on a vertical line that is the centre of a basic sleeve pattern.
Using a French curve, draw the shaped sleeve cap by passing the tips of the short lines. Make sure not to
cross the short lines. It may take a minute or two to find the proper portion and position of the French
curve, so be patient :).
Marking the arm length on a vertical line that is the centre of a basic sleeve pattern.fg
On the wrist line, mark the underarm seam.
f = sleeve width/2 – 5 cm
g = sleeve width/2 – 5 cm
——
f = sleeve width/2 – 2”
g = sleeve width/2 – 2”
Marking the arm length on a vertical line that is the centre of a basic sleeve pattern.
Using a long ruler, draw the wrist and underarm seams.
Marking the arm length on a vertical line that is the centre of a basic sleeve pattern.hi
On the BACK part of the sleeve cap, mark the length of the bodice BACK armscye. On the FRONT of the
cap, mark the bodice FRONT armscye length.
To do so: use a tape measure, measure the bodice armscyes, and transfer the measurements.
Alternatively, you can walk the bodice pattern along the sleeve pattern.
h = bodice BACK armscye length
i = bodice FRONT armscye length
Marking the arm length on a vertical line that is the centre of a basic sleeve pattern.
Measure the distance between the armscye markings. This distance is the ease of the sleeve cap.
Marking the arm length on a vertical line that is the centre of a basic sleeve pattern.
In the middle of the measured sleeve cap ease, mark the CENTRE notch. This notch may not be aligned
with the central vertical line you have drawn at the beginning. This does NOT mean, that you have
drafted the sleeve incorrectly.
Marking the arm length on a vertical line that is the centre of a basic sleeve pattern.jk
On the sleeve cap at the BACK, mark 1/3 of the bodice BACK armscye length. Drawing two short lines,
you will mark the BACK notch for the sleeve.
On the sleeve cap at the FRONT, mark 1/3 of the bodice FRONT armscye length. Drawing one short line,
you will mark the FRONT notch for the sleeve.
j = (bodice BACK armscye length)/3
k = (bodice FRONT armscye length)/3
Marking the arm length on a vertical line that is the centre of a basic sleeve pattern.
The sleeve pattern is finished. Now, you can sew and test it with the bodice.
How to use the pattern?
Sew it and test with the bodice you drafted the pattern for and see how it fits. Apart from using the
pattern you have drafted in this tutorial, you can further modify it to make other types of sleeves and
sleeve designs.
A great book for every beginner. Learn the basics to modify a basic bodice, circle skirts, pencil skirt, or
sleeve slopers to create your fashion designs. To learn more, read my review of Make Your Own Dress
Patterns.
A comprehensive book for both beginner and advanced sewers and fashion designers, that contains
tutorials on creating all the basic pattern blocks. Plus about 800 pages of interesting fashion design
ideas.
Facebook
Instagram
Pinterest
Conclusion:
As you can see, drafting the pattern is not as complicated as it might look at first sight. Now, that you
have succeeded in making your basic block, you are free to create any other design you like.
How did you like this post?
Click on a star to rate it!
Average rating 4.8 / 5. Vote count: 5
Sewing Pattern Calculators
Date
October 5, 2022
Free Downloadable Patterns And Templates
Date
September 6, 2021
How To Draft A Basic Bodice Block Pattern?
Date
June 21, 2023
Facebook
Instagram
Pinterest
Enter your email and subscribe
SUBSCRIBE
By clicking SUBSCRIBE, you agree to share your email address with anicka.design and Mailchimp to
receive emails from anicka.design. To unsubscribe, please, contact me or use the unsubscribe link in
those emails to opt-out at any time.
Share this:
333Save
Like this:
Loading...
Privacy Policy
notification icon
Save
