#thebakefeed

FROM SCRATCH
TM

strawberry jam
crumble bars p. 47
Recipes for

51 Baking with
Summer’s
Bounty

SUMMER 2016 VOLUME 2, ISSUE 3

$12.99 US
FEATURING
Pull-Apart Breads
Announcing Our 2016 Baker’s Dozen List
DISPLAY UNTIL AUGUST 22, 2016
The Essential Parker House Rolls
FROM SCRATCH
TM
table of contents

11 Products: Breezy Linens

Beautiful, handmade towels from American artisans 23 Bakery Profile: Never-Ending Nostalgia
All-American bakers Griith and Cheryl Day turn back
make a kitchen statement time and turn up the fun at Back in the Day Bakery

13 On the Shelf: A Sweet (and Savory) Summer

Read up on this season’s greatest hits, from pizza to 29 From the Pantry: Butter
Best butters for baking—the more butterfat, the better
desserts à la mode

15 Exert Q&A: Joanne Chang on Math + Baking 33 2016 Baker’s Dozen

Our inaugural list of thirteen movers and shakers
A beloved Boston baker with a Harvard math degree impacting the baking world
explains how her work with numbers afects her work
in the kitchen
43 That’s My Jam
19 Perfect Pairing: Summer Sipping al Fresco
A fizzy cocktail-savory cookie combo from a culinary
Make the most of the bounty of summer berries
with our quick jams and recipes that showcase these
power couple, best enjoyed outside jarred delights

51 Pulled Apart
Ooey, gooey, sweet, and savory—all hands will be on
deck for these mouthwatering grab-and-go recipes

3 bake from scratch

61 Hand Pie Jive
Get picnic ready with pastry chef Lisa Donovan’s
97 An Ode to Birthday Cake
Blow out the candles and celebrate with the most
handheld treats classic of all birthday cakes

69 Cool, Creamy Sandwiches of Summer

We all scream for these mix-and-match ice cream
101 Bake the Book: A Bakery Blooms in Pasadena
The ladies behind Little Flower Baking share what sets
and cookie combos their book and neighborhood café apart

77 My My American Pie
, ,
From Georgia peaches to Maine blueberries, we take
109 Origin of a Classic: Bermudian Rum Cake
Several theories surround the origin of this time-
it state-by-state with this timeless summer dessert honored treat soaked in the islands’ signature spirit

89 The Essential Parker House Roll

Master the rock star of all dinner rolls with our
113 Our Obsession: Old-Fashioned Doughnuts
The low-down on this old school doughnut’s
recipes and insider tips comeback and the best places to find one with a
modern twist

summer 2016 4
 VOLUME 2, ISSUE 3

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5 bake from scratch

 from the editor

There’s nothing more

exciting than summer’s bounty at the
farmers’ market—containers of vibrant berries
and fragrant stone fruit bound for butter-
flaked piecrusts. The sweet smell of peaches
always reminds me of summer nights spent
at my grandmother Mimi’s table peeling their
soft skin and slicing them for milkshakes, pies,
and cobblers. Our Georgia Peach Pie on page
84 will transport you to the Southern nights I
experienced as a child.
Speaking of pie, hand-pie maven Lisa Donovan
shares her recipes on page 61. You’ve probably
never thought about using black pepper and
cream in your apple filling, but believe us when
we tell you these hand pies are life changing. Lisa’s
family has been using this recipe for more than
130 years, and you’ll know why after one bite.
As we near our first anniversary, we’d be remiss
not to honor 13 of the baking world’s most
admired personalities. From bloggers and
cookbook authors to social activists and cookie
dough entrepreneurs, our 2016 Baker’s Dozen
list on page 33 honors and celebrates the bakers,
makers, and shakers that are impacting our
delicious world.
By now, you all know how much I love aprons
(stylish baking is a must!), and after discovering
the collaboration of fashion designer Billy Reid
and award-winning chef John Besh, my summer
baking uniform is complete. (Note: This full
apron can be folded down for hot summer days.)
Proceeds from every apron purchase benefit the
John Besh Foundation. Find it at billyreid.com.

Happy baking!

Follow us for
daily baking
inspiration.
Brian Hart Hoffman
Editor-in-Chief
Bake from Scratch
P.S. Never miss another issue
of Bake from Scratch. You can
now subscribe and have
@thebakefeed
each issue delivered to
your door! To subscribe,
visit bakefromscratch.com.
@thebakefeed
contributors
Paula Forbes
Paul Calvert Paula Forbes writes about cookbooks, restaurants, food,
Paul Calvert has worked in restaurants and and cooking; you can find her cookbook reviews on Epicurious. She is
bars since he was 15. A graduate of The College of Charleston originally from Madison, Wisconsin, and went to Grinnell College in Iowa
and Georgia State University with degrees in English Literature (Go Pioneers!). Paula has 10 years under her belt in Austin, Texas, where
from both, Paul worked as a teacher in Boston for years. In 2010, she now lives with a man, a dog, two cats, and an enthusiastic attempt at
Paul moved back to Atlanta to open the Sound Table, which was a vegetable garden. She’s currently working on a cookbook about the chefs
named one of the Best Bars in the South by Imbibe magazine. In and restaurants of Austin, to be published by Abrams in the spring of 2018.
2012, Paul became Beverage Director for local hangout Victory It’s Just Not Summer Without: “Green chiles. Every August, I spend a
Sandwich Bar and then managing partner of Paper Plane, which weekend roasting, peeling, and canning strips of green chiles so that come
was recognized by Esquire, Garden & Gun, and CNN as one of the football season, I’m ready to make a giant pot of my bourbon-braised
best bars in America. In 2015, Paul and his partners opened pork chili at a moment’s notice. This summer I’m attempting to grow
Ticonderoga Club. Paul believes in Atlanta and the amazing my own. Wish me luck!”
hospitality community that thrives there.
It’s Just Not Summer Without: “A glass of sherry and tonic. The
sherry I get down with in summer is dry and mineral-forward, and
pairs perfectly with a clam roll on the beach in Maine. Try a nice Tina Antolini
Fino or Amontillado from El Maestro Sierra, Valdespino, or Equipo Tina Antolini is a Peabody-Award-winning storyteller
Navazos. Because sherry is low alcohol it keeps me spiritually and radio producer. She serves as the host and producer of Gravy, a podcast
hydrated without the risk of actual dehydration.” with the Southern Foodways Alliance, which was named the James Beard
Photo courtesy Andrew Thomas Lee
Foundation’s Publication of the Year for 2015. Tina’s worked in public radio
for more than 10 years, including at State of the Re:Union (SOTRU) and New
England Public Radio, and has produced stories on everything from Iraqi
religious minorities to the sex lives of lobsters. Antolini won a Peabody and
Sarah O’Brien a national Edward R. Murrow Award for her work on SOTRU.
Sarah O’Brien has owned and operated The It’s Just Not Summer Without: “Chocolate and vanilla swirl soft serve
Little Tart Bakeshop in Atlanta since 2010, when she started from Dorman’s Dairy Dream, a little drive-up ice cream stand in my
selling her French-inspired pastries at the city’s farmers’ markets. hometown in Maine.”
Little Tart now has two locations, one with Octane Coffee in
Grant Park, and another at Atlanta’s new Krog Street Market, in
addition to tables at four farmers’ markets around town. Sarah
started baking with her grandmother at age 10, and later followed Sarah Simmons
her desire to learn more about pastry (and learn French) to Named one of the 50 best chefs in New York City in
Paris. She and the team at Little Tart were recently honored to 2014 by Food & Wine magazine, Sarah Simmons is the CEO of City Grit
be selected as a James Beard Foundation Award semi-finalist for Hospitality Group, the founder of City Grit Culinary Salon, and Executive
Outstanding Baker. Sarah lives in Atlanta with her boyfriend and Chef/Owner of Birds & Bubbles, a full-service restaurant in Manhattan’s
their son, plus a whole host of dogs and chickens. Lower East Side, and Rise Gourmet Goods & Bakeshop in Columbia, South
It’s Just Not Summer Without: “Peach galettes! I wait all year Carolina. In 2015 she was named to Williams-Sonoma’s Chefs’ Collective
for Pearson Farm peaches to become available, and then the bakery alongside nine other chefs, and launched the first products in her City Grit
kicks into high-galette gear, producing thousands of little open- product line in partnership with the company.
faced pies with local peaches and lemon thyme for our dedicated It’s Just Not Summer Without: “Watermelon! Nothing makes me
galette-loving customers.” happier or feel more childlike than a juicy piece of cold watermelon.”

7 bake from scratch

 #thebakefeed

on the cover
FROM SCRATCH
TM

team FROM SCRATCH

TM

Strawberry Jam aw y am

Crumble Bars Recipes for crumble bars p. 47

recipe index page 47

PHOTOGRAPHY BY
JIM BATHIE
51 Baking with
Summer’s
Bounty

BREAD RECIPE DEVELOPMENT

AND FOOD STYLING BY
Banana’s Foster Monkey MARY-CLAIRE BRITTON
Breads 58 STYLING BY
FEATURING

Mary Beth Jones

Pull-Apart Breads
Announcing Our 2016 Baker's Dozen List

Basic Pull-Apart Bread MARY BETH JONES The Essential Parker House Rolls

Mary Beth Jones is a stylist at Hoffman Media. Dough 55

Blackberry Jam Star 58
Having studied and worked in the interior Dill and Gruyère Rolls 96 Chocolate Shell 76
design field, her passion for design and love Maple-Bacon Cheddar Pickle Loaf 55 Deep Dark Chocolate Ice Cream 75
Nutella Crunch Braid 55 Dried Apple Filling 67
for food have brought her to this place in her Parker House Pocket Rolls 95 Lemon Thyme and Blackberry Filling 67
career. Southern culture is a staple in her life, Parker House Roll Dough 93 Paul Calvert’s Late Matinee 20
having lived equal time in Nashville, Tennessee, Parker House Round Rolls 95 Pesto 58
Parker House Square Rolls 95 Roasted Pistachio Ice Cream 76
and Birmingham, Alabama. When she’s not Pesto Sun-Dred Tomato Rolls 58 Roasted Strawberry Filling 67
traveling or hunting for the perfect prop, she’s Quick Blackberry-Blueberry Jam 47
at home with her husband decorating their BARS AND COOKIES Quick Strawberry Jam 47
Chocolate Chip Cookies 72 Spicy Green Tomato Jam Filling 67
1930s cottage. Chocolate Cookies 72 Strawberry Buttermilk Ice Cream 75
Ginger Cookies 72 Super Lemon Curd 18
It’s Just Not Summer Without: “A glass of Joanne Chang’s Lemon Lust Bars 18
rosé. There’s something about the weather Lemon Shortbread 72 PASTRY, PIES, AND TARTS
change when a glass of rosé is the only thing Nutty Thumbprint Cookies with Jam 50 Black and Blue Crostada 47
Sarah O’Brien’s Parmesan Sablés 19 California Plum Pie 80
that will hit the spot. Although let’s be Strawberry Jam Crumble Bars 47 Georgia Peach Pie 84
honest, any wine on a porch in the warm air Hand Pies 66
is summer in a glass to me.” CAKES AND MUFFINS Lisa Donovan’s Pie Dough 66
Amaranth Millet Muins 106 Maine Blueberry Pie 82
Chocolate Cake 107 Our Favorite Pie Crust 78
Sarah Simmons’ Birthday Cake 99 Peach Ricotta Scones 106
Sugared Jam Cake 50 Washington Cherry Pie 86
Sweet Saak’s Rum Cake 112
RECIPE CORRECTION
Sophia Jones FROSTINGS, GARNISHES, AND While we aim for perfection with each of our
GLAZES recipes, we do make the occasional mistake.
Sophia Jones is a writer and Here is a correction from our Spring 2016
Brown Butter Buttercream Frosting 107
assistant editor at Bake from Scratch. A firm Buttercream 99
issue.

believer in the healing powers of chocolate, Brie en Croûte, p. 98: At the end of Step 2
of the procedure, turn Brie over so folded
sunsets, and rock ’n’ roll, Sophia is always on MISCELLANEOUS
pastry edges are on the bottom. Place on
Brown Butter 107 prepared pan. Continue with Step 3.
the lookout for a good story and her next Brown Sugar Vanilla Bean Ice Cream 75
great adventure. She plans on following the
advice of award-winning author (and our
Baker’s Dozen Icon, p. 42) Dorie Greenspan,
who recently told her, “Now is such an
incredible time to be working for a food
resources
Joanne Chang on Math + Baking
2016 Baker’s Dozen
Page 35
Photo excerpted from Flavor
Flours by Alice Medrich (Artisan
Books). Copyright © 2014. Photo
Waldman Rodriguez. Photographs
by Jennifer May. Published by
Clarkson Potter/Publishers,
an imprint of Penguin Random
House LLC. Photo courtesy Evan
Page 15
Photos courtesy Kristin Teig and by Leigh Beisch. Sung for The Hot Bread Kitchen.
magazine. Make it count.” Keller & Keller Photography. Page 36 Page 40
Photos courtesy Ashleigh Photo excerpted from Patisserie
Never-Ending Nostalgia Amoroso for The Urban Poser; Made Simple by Edd Kimber (Kyle
It’s Just Not Summer Without: “A slice Pages 23-24 Drop Kitchen Inc. Books, 2014). Photo by Laura
Photos excerpted from The Back in the Page 37 Edwards.
of my Yia Yia’s strawberry pie topped with a Day Bakery Cookbook by Cheryl Day and Photos courtesy Molly Yeh for Pages 41
Griffith Day (Artisan Books). Copyright My Name is Yeh; Layo Mayoli for Photo courtesy Chris McEniry for
generous dollop of Cool Whip—preferably © 2012. Photo by Squire Fox. AHeirloom. Callie’s Charleston Biscuits.
Pages 25-28 Page 38
My, My, American Pie
eaten at dusk on the back porch, after a long Photos courtesy of Griffith Day and
Cheryl Day and excerpted from Back
Photo courtesy Steven Karl
Metzer for PieBox. Pages 77-88
in the Day Bakery Made with Love by Page 39 Hidden quote metal pie pans from
day on the lake.” Cheryl Day and Griffith Day (Artisan Photo excerpted from The Designs by Kace, designsbykace
Books). Copyright © 2015. Photo by Hot Bread Kitchen Cookbook. .com.
Angie Mosier. Copyright © 2015 by Jessamyn

summer 2016 8
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2. Madder Root Mason Jars Kitchen Towel

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3. Alabama Chanin Aria Tea Towel

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Artist Hannah Reeves of B & R Tiny Farm dyes
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11 bake from scratch

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on the shelf

a sweet Summer Berries & Autumn Fruits

By Annie Rigg

(and savory)
In Summer Berries & Autumn Fruits (Kyle Books), Annie Rigg teaches
readers to make the most of their seasonal farmers’ market haul.
From summer stone fruits and berries to fall fruits from the
orchard, she amplifies these natural gems in tarts, pies, and more,

SUMMER
BY MARY-KATE SHERER
adding spices and herbs to take flavors to a whole new level. With
page after page of stunning photography and recipes brimming
with delicious fruit, Annie makes it simple to bake with the
bounty of the season.

Can’t Wait To Make: Raspberry, Pistachio, and Passion Fruit

From fruit cobblers and crisps to perfect Yo-Yos, a sophisticated version of a favorite childhood sandwich
pizzas, the recipes in these beautiful new cookie with a fresh and fruity spin.
books will keep you baking all summer long
Clean Cakes A La Mode
By Henrietta Inman By Bruce Weinstein and Mark Scarbrough
In Clean Cakes (Jacqui Small), Henrietta Inman In the pages of À La Mode (Griffin Books), brownies, pies, cakes, and cookies meet
doesn’t simply share recipes, she explains the their frozen match. Authors Bruce Weinstein and Mark Scarbrough share recipes
concept of clean baking using only whole, natural for baked treats, each paired with a complementary ice cream, gelato, or frozen
ingredients, and eliminating gluten, dairy, and custard, such as Salty Key Lime Tart and Triple Coconut Frozen Custard. The
refined sugar. Only when she’s schooled readers on book is a celebration of the unrivaled affinity between baked goods and their
basic recipe elements, like nut milks and natural creamy sidekicks.
sweeteners, does she bring out the flavor-bomb
recipes, like her Clementine and Pomegranate Can’t Wait To Make: Sour Cherry Cobbler and Cannoli Cream Ice
Jewel Cake, which just happen to be good for you. Cream, a beautiful and delicious marriage of American cobbler and Italian
ice cream.
Can’t Wait To Make: Coconut Rose Cake with
Whipped Vanilla Coconut Cream, mouthwatering
layers of coconut flavor, and a hint of fragrant Layered
rosewater, covered in beautiful toasted flaked coconut. By Tessa Huff
Tessa Huff’s Layered (Stewart, Tabori & Chang) compiles dozens of ideas
for creating layer cake bliss without relying on basic vanilla cake. This
book ups the cake game with recipes such as Blood Orange and Thyme
Cake, Pink Peppercorn Cherry Cake, and Sweet Tea Cake. In addition to
sharing an arsenal of complex flavors in her recipes, Tessa arms readers
with techniques to demonstrate their baking prowess, from tips on
frosting to creating edible garnishes.

Can’t Wait To Make: Riesling Rhubarb Crisp Cake, a divine tower

of Riesling-infused cake, rhubarb-strawberry compote, and rhubarb
buttercream with crunchy oat crumble between the layers.

The Elements of Pizza

By Ken Forkish
The Elements of Pizza (Ten Speed Press) is Ken Forkish’s ode to the
combination of crisp crust and fresh toppings. Ken, the owner of the
acclaimed restaurant Ken’s Artisan Pizza in Portland, Oregon, instructs
readers in the process of creating the perfect pizza from the bottom up—
from a base of handmade crust to artisan cheese on top. Featuring gorgeous
photography and recipes ranging from classic to contemporary pies, The
Elements of Pizza will take any pizza lover to heaven and back. Readers will
discover, as Ken says, “Good pizza is magic.”

Can’t Wait To Make: Margherita and Arugula, a classic pie that delivers
the perfection of fresh garden tomatoes and peppery greens. b

summer 2016 14
expert q & a

joanne
chang
on math + baking
BY TINA ANTOLINI

We chatted with this Boston baking

phenom about everything from her first
batch of cookies to how her Harvard math
degree influences her creations

15 bake from scratch

It’s hard to imagine the Boston area without Flour Bakery. For more and working them through until you have a final solution. Baking is
than a decade now, Flour has been where people turn for bite-size very similar—you start with a group of ingredients, and then with
coconut cream tartlets, sweet lemon bars with a citrus zing, and careful mixing, blending, and baking, you end up with something
overstuffed turkey and cranberry chutney sandwiches on thick-cut that is much more than the sum of its parts. I was using my math and
homemade bread. Joanne Chang is the force behind every detail economics training as a management consultant after college, and
of Flour. She opened the original Flour Bakery & Café in the city’s after a few years, I decided to apply my analytical mind to something
South End neighborhood 15 years ago, using all of her savings plus I was much more passionate about: cooking. My first cooking job was
loans from family and friends to get the place off the ground. She got on the line at [Lydia Shire’s] Biba. After cooking for a year, I focused
up at 2 a.m. every day to do all the baking herself. Since then, she’s my interest on baking and I haven’t looked back since.
opened three more locations of Flour, written three cookbooks, and
been nominated for two different James Beard Foundation Awards, How did you come to start Flour?
for Outstanding Baker and Best Chef Northeast. Given that baking I had worked in bakeries and restaurants in Boston and NYC, and as I
empire, it’s hard to imagine that she once led a completely different was moving along in my career, I eventually started dreaming about
life. Joanne came to baking after working as a financial consultant, a opening my own place. I wanted a place like Cheers, a place where
career she pursued after majoring in Applied Mathematics at Harvard everyone knows your name and makes you feel welcome. A home
University. But Joanne doesn’t see the two interests—math and away from home.
baking—as quite as divided as you might think.
Where in your baking does your math training shine?
How did you come to major in math in college? I love analyzing a recipe to see how we can improve it. That takes
I always loved math and science in high school. Something about being able to parse a list of ingredients and recipe instructions and
how you can methodically get from a to b to c and end up with the determine what factors influence what outcome. This is exactly what
final answer d is very satisfying to me. Applied math allows you to applied math/economics is. Math helps you move around a recipe
take the math you learn and actually apply it to real life. I studied easily as well—if you need to double or triple the recipe, knowing
Applied Math/Economics, so my math was applied to studying how math well makes it easy.
the economy works.
How do you think the home baker should think about math?
How did you start baking in the first place? Use it to help you understand a recipe better. If you want to scale a
The only baking I did growing up was making Toll House Chocolate recipe up or down, being good with math is key. We tend to simply
Chip Cookies. Making those cookies with my mom is one of my scale up proportionately. For yeast, we will use less as we get larger,
favorite childhood memories. We didn’t have many sweets in our and with some recipes we will reduce baking powder and baking soda.
household when I was growing up, but for some reason my mom But typically it’s straight proportions.
relented when it came to chocolate chip cookies. We always ate them
warm from the oven and often burned the roofs of our mouths Have you ever had a scaling up attempt with a recipe that went
because we couldn’t wait for them to cool. hilariously wrong?
I can’t recall that I have, but once we made a batch of lemon scones
I carried this recipe with me to college, and in my junior and senior year with salt instead of sugar.
I baked and sold chocolate chip cookies to the student-run grill to make
spending money. After college, while working as a consultant, I also Speaking of lemon, tell us about your lemon bar recipe.
baked on the side, selling my cookies to colleagues who would hire me I start with a buttery shortbread and top it with lemon curd, which
to help them with birthday parties and graduation celebrations. is made with fresh lemon juice, cream, and butter. It’s very tart and
lemony so you have to be a lemon junkie to appreciate it.
How did you make the transition from math to baking?
When studying math, you are taking a mess of numbers and equations
 These rich lemon bars, sweet
with a potent citrus zing, are
one of Joanne Chang’s signature
treats. If you can’t get to
her bake shops, here’s the
recipe to make them at home.

17 bake from scratch

 joanne chang’s
lemon
lust bars
Makes 9 6. Bake until shortbread is light brown (about the color of
maple wood), about 20 minutes. Remove from oven, and pour
1 cup (224 grams) unsalted butter Super Lemon Curd on top of shortbread. Smooth filling evenly
6 tablespoons (75 grams) granulated sugar over shortbread with a spatula.
2 tablespoons (15 grams) confectioners’ sugar 7. Bake until curd has set and jiggles like firm Jell-O, 15 to
1 teaspoon vanilla extract 20 minutes more. Remove from oven, and let cool to room
1 large egg yolk temperature. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight to
1 cup (140 grams) all-purpose flour let curd set. If refrigerating overnight, lightly drape plastic wrap
1 cup (120 grams) cake flour over top to keep refrigerator smells from seeping into your
½ teaspoon (3 grams) baking powder lemon bars.
½ teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt 8. Gently tug parchment on all sides, and when bars are
Super Lemon Curd (recipe follows) loosened from pan, slide them out onto a cutting board. Trim
edges, and cut bars into 9 pieces.
1. Using a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment or mixing
by hand with a wooden spoon or an electric hand mixer, beat Super Lemon Curd
butter, granulated sugar, and confectioners’ sugar at medium Makes about 3½ cups
speed until light and flufy, about 5 minutes. Beat in vanilla and
egg yolk until thoroughly combined. Scrape down sides of bowl 2 cups plus 2 tablespoons lemon juice
with a spatula to make sure all of the yolk is mixed in with the ½ cup (112 grams) unsalted butter
butter-sugar mixture. ¼ cup heavy whipping cream
2. Sift together all-purpose flour, cake flour, baking powder, 2 cups (400 grams) sugar
and salt. In 3 to 4 increments, beat flour mixture into butter- 8 large eggs
sugar mixture at low speed. Mix until flour is totally blended 4 large egg yolks
in and dough is homogenous. Scrape down sides of bowl with 1 teaspoon (6 grams) kosher salt
a spatula again during mixing to ensure that all the flour is ½ teaspoon vanilla extract
thoroughly incorporated.
3. Scrape dough out of bowl onto a piece of plastic wrap. 1. In a medium saucepan, bring lemon juice, butter, and cream
Wrap dough in plastic wrap, and press it down to form a flat to just under a boil over medium-high heat. In a medium bowl,
disk about ½ inch thick. Refrigerate until dough has firmed whisk together sugar, eggs, and egg yolks. Remove lemon
up but is still pliable, about 15 minutes. (Dough can be stored juice mixture from heat, and gradually whisk in about ½ cup
in refrigerator for up to 5 days; in freezer for up to 1 month. hot liquid into sugar-egg mixture. Continue whisking hot
If frozen, defrost overnight in refrigerator before using. Let liquid into eggs about ½ cup at a time until all is incorporated.
soften at room temperature for about 20 minutes before This technique (adding hot liquid slowly to eggs) is called
using. A good time to prepare the lemon curd is while the tempering, and it allows the eggs to be brought up to the
dough is chilling.) same temperature as the hot liquid slowly and gently, without
4. Preheat oven to 350°. cooking them.
5. Remove dough from plastic wrap, and roll it between two 2. Return mixture to the saucepan over medium heat. Stir
large sheets of parchment paper into an 11x9-inch rectangle, continuously with a wooden spoon, making sure to scrape the
about ¼ inch thick. Transfer dough and bottom sheet of bottom of the saucepan frequently to prevent the eggs from
parchment to an 11x9-inch metal or glass baking pan that has scrambling. Cook until mixture thickens and coats the spoon
sides at least 2 inches high. Press dough into bottom of pan, with a thick enough layer of curd that you can draw your finger
and allow parchment to come up sides of the pan. Don’t worry through it and it holds a line, 5 to 8 minutes.
if dough is not perfectly smooth; it needs to be about the same 3. Remove curd from heat, and strain through a fine-mesh
thickness all around, but it does not have to be smooth. sieve into a medium bowl or pitcher. Whisk in salt and vanilla. b
 perfect pairing

Summer Sipping
AL FRESCO
Savory sables and For Atlanta food lovers, Sarah O’Brien and Paul Calvert are the power couple to know.
Sarah is the mastermind behind The Little Tart Bakeshop (littletartatl.com), a pastry lover’s
this refreshing gin dreamland for pitch-perfect kouign amanns, fruit tarts that just ooze the goodness of the
sipper take summer season, and cookies galore. Paul has been a driving force behind Atlanta’s rejuvenated—and
happy hour to the constantly growing—cocktail culture. Recently, he teamed up with fellow Atlanta barman
Greg Best to open the sultry Ticonderoga Club (ticonderogaclub.com) in the new Krog Street
next level Market. We asked the couple to come up with the cocktail hour bite and sip they’re excited
to dive into this summer. Your summer patio parties will thank us.

SARAH O’BRIEN’S PARMESAN SABLÉS 1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, preferably European-style high-fat butter
Makes 24 (such as Plugra), softened
⅓ cup (40 grams) confectioners’ sugar
After a day of baking and tasting sweets at the bakery, I often ¾ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated on the large holes of a box
come home wanting a light, salty snack in the evening. Popcorn grater
with Parmesan cheese is our go-to—and if I’m being honest, 1½ teaspoons (9 grams) kosher salt
I don’t mind eating it for dinner a couple of nights a week, 1 teaspoon olive oil
accompanied by a thirst-quenching apéritif. When Paul and I set 2 cups (280 grams) all-purpose flour
out to come up with a delicious baked good-cocktail combo, we 1 large egg yolk, whisked with a dash of cream
thought about how much we love our evening popcorn apéritif Maldon sea salt
snack, and the idea of a popcorn-inspired sablé was born. Red Mule yellow cornmeal

My go-to popcorn is popped in my air popper (one of my 1. Cut butter into large, tablespoon-size pieces.
favorite appliances ever), and topped with real Parmigiano- 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat butter at
Reggiano, olive oil, a little salted butter, and some delicious medium speed until no chunks remain but butter is not flufy, about 1 minute.
salt. In that same vein, this sablé recipe incorporates all of Scrape sides of bowl, and add confectioners’ sugar. Beat until mixture is smooth,
those elements, along with a dusting of cornmeal on top, and a but again, not flufy, about 1 minute.
hearty sprinkle of Maldon salt. These are eminently adaptable 3. Add Parmigiano-Reggiano, salt, and oil, and beat until incorporated. Add flour
little butter cookies: change out the Parmesan for your favorite all at once, and beat until dough comes together in a crumbly mass. The dough will
hard cheese, add an herb, top with black pepper, add cayenne. form a few large chunks around the paddle. Do not beat past this point.
They are perfectly crisp and sandy like a true French sablé no 4. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and knead quickly once or twice
matter what add-ins you choose; just make sure not to overmix by hand to bring it together until smooth.
the dough and activate the gluten in the flour more than is 5. Roll dough into a 12-inch log, and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 2
necessary. Since this is a slice-and-bake cookie, you can double hours. (Dough can be refrigerated for up to 2 days or frozen for up to 2 weeks.)
the recipe and keep a log on hand; baking happiness is being 6. Preheat oven to 350˚. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
able to slice and bake some delicious salty cookies whenever 7. Remove dough from refrigerator, and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices. Place ½ inch
you’re craving them, or when company is on the way. apart on prepared pan. Brush with egg mixture, and sprinkle with a dash of salt and
a generous helping of cornmeal.
8. Bake for 10 minutes. Rotate pan, and bake until sablés are evenly brown from
edges to center, about 5 to 7 minutes more.
19 bake from scratch
PAUL CALVERT’S LATE MATINEE
Makes 1 serving

2 ounces fino sherry

2 ounces dry gin
2 ounces chilled tonic water
1 ounce fresh lemon juice, strained
1 ounce Cocchi Americano
1 teaspoon caper brine
Garnish: caper berries

1. Fill a Collins glass with ice. Add sherry, gin, tonic water,
lemon juice, and Cocchi Americano, and stir with a long
spoon. Top with caper brine, and garnish with caper berries,
if desired.
 DEATH'S DOOR GIN,
DEATH'S DOOR SPIRITS
MIDDLETON, WISCONSIN
ETHEREAL GIN, BERKSHIRE MOUNTAIN “Distilled from local winter wheat
ALL-AMERICAN DISTILLERS grown near the distillery, Death's Door
GINS GREAT BARRINGTON, MASSACHUSETTS is full-bodied and English in style, with
We asked Paul Calvert to share his “Ethereal is actually a different gin every year. Chris Weld changes loads of juniper up front, and dry mint
picks for the best gins made all across the botanical recipe each time he distills so the resulting gin is true and anise in the finish. This gin is as
the States. to its name. Lately Chris has been on a tear and last year's Batch 12 solid in a Gin-and-Tonic as it is in a
was his best yet: full of bright notes of lemongrass with an almost Martinez. If any American gin wears a
chile-spice finish. It’s perfect in a Gimlet, my favorite gin sour. Go tuxedo and plays roulette, it's Death's
get a bottle before it's on to Batch 13.” berkshiremountaindistillers.com Door.” deathsdoorspirits.com
 b

BIMINI GIN, ROUND

TURN DISTILLING TERROIR GIN, ST. GEORGE SPIRITS
LEOPOLD'S AMERICAN SMALL BATCH GIN, BIDDEFORD, MAINE ALAMEDA, CALIFORNIA
LEOPOLD BROS DISTILLERS “A new gin from Southern Maine “Terroir is one of three beautiful gins from Lance
DENVER, COLORADO that's built on a simple profile of Winters and his team at St. George, all worth real
“I'll admit it: At first I was skeptical about a gin bottled at only fresh hops and grapefruit zest. estate in a home bar. Of the three, I like Terroir the
40% alcohol. Thankfully, it was love at first sip. Todd Leopold's The result is bright and somewhat best for its full palate weight and aggressive flavor
first gin is a textbook example of the so-called American tropical, with a finish that shows profile. Fresh pine. Wet cedar. Wild sage. Not a gin
Style—full of fresh citrus (orange, Meyer lemon, pomelo)— a soft dried tea-like botanicals, for people who don't like Christmas trees, but if you
perfect apéritif gin. Should a friend claim that gin isn't meant namely bergamot and chamomile. don't like Christmas trees, what the hell are you doing
to be sipped, hand them a slug of this over ice with an orange It’s killer with fresh citrus and drinking gin? This gin would make Proust swoon, and
twist. Also, excellent in a Negroni.” leopoldbros.com pineapple.” biminigin.com is amazing in a Tom Collins.” stgeorgespirits.com b
bakery pro²le
 Never-Ending
nostalgia
Self-taught and unabashed American bakers Cheryl and Griffith Day serve up
feel-good Southern soul from Savannah, Georgia’ s Back in the Day Bakery
BY SOPHIA JONES
Cheryl and Griffith Day like to keep it old school—she was once overflows with chocolate chip cookies, cornmeal jam drops, cotton
a dancer on Soul Train and he was a former player in a funk and candy meringues, and homemade Pop Tart-style pastries filled with
R&B band. The couple opened Back in the Day Bakery in central fresh strawberries and topped with sprinkles. Peer out the giant
Savannah’s Starland District in 2002, and have since reinvigorated window that wraps around their building, and before breakfast or
homespun, Southern-style baking by putting their own flair on lunch you’ll see people lined up by the dozen to get a slice of Cheryl’s
time-honored comfort food. ‘Nana Cream Pie or a loaf of Griffith’s artisan bread fresh from the
oven. When entering, customers are greeted with an assortment of
“America has a history of making things by hand, and a great pride vintage flour containers and mixers perched on bright blue shelves
in doing so,” Griffith says. “That’s been kind of lost, and people against a whitewashed brick wall splotched with patches of fading
really want something made with honesty and pride. I think people wallpaper. Antique pendant lights and crystal chandeliers dangle
are hungry for that.” from the ceiling. In the dining area, local regulars and tourists
intermingle in an eclectic mix of wooden chairs and benches at
Visiting Back in the Day Bakery, set in a former gas station, is like
communal tables. Family photos, pie tins, handmade pendants, and
stepping into a pastel kaleidoscope of sweets. The display case
a faded American flag hang from the mint-colored walls.

summer 2016 24
“We hung that American flag in the bakery with pride,” says
Cheryl, who learned to bake from her grandmother during
childhood summers spent in Tuscaloosa, Alabama. “Bakers
put so much thought into making things using these Old
World methods. Some of those are European techniques,
but we decided that it was a good thing to be all-American
bakers. It’s very honest. It’s who we are.”

Cheryl and Griffith believe in the power of simplicity. Yet

they don’t sacrifice their personal style, adding a touch of
the Day dazzle to all their downhome dishes. Cheryl puts a
Creole spin on the classic brownie, topping hers with New
Orleans-style chicory and coffee-infused ganache. Griff
takes his turnovers from traditional to tropical, packing
them with guava paste and sweet Neufchâtel cheese in his
Southern interpretation of the Cuban pastelito.

Cheryl runs Back in the Day’s front of house and creates

the dessert menu. To really make a connection with her
customers, Cheryl says she likes to think of herself as
that aunt who was the best baker in the family. Since the
beginning, Back in the Day’s bestseller has been Cheryl’s
Old-Fashioned Cupcake, a fluffy vanilla cupcake frosted
with vanilla buttercream. Her Coconut Cake and Bourbon
Bread Pudding—made with day-old ciabatta and topped
with raisins—are the best versions from your childhood. Ask
for a fried egg and a slice of candied bacon inside the warm,
flaky perfection that is her grandmother’s Old-Fashioned
Buttermilk Biscuit recipe, and be transported back to a
time when things moved a little slower and seemed a little
softer around the edges. Griffith works the back of house
and creates the savory menu. Sink your teeth into one of
his melty Pimento Pig Sandwiches, thick-cut apple-smoked
bacon and pimento cheese in a homemade ciabatta roll,
or a Bacon and Jam Empanada filled with Griff’s signature
jam—a smoky blend of Vidalia onion, bourbon, coffee, and a
splash of Coca-Cola. With each bite, you’ll feel the Southern
" We decided
stars align.
when we opened
“Food brings people together,” says Griffith, who learned
that our motto
to bake as a boy from his mother. “Both of our parents would be one
baked when we were growing up, and we really have great
memories of that. We both saw how baked goods made
person baking for
everyone else happy.” Cheryl tells her front of house staff another person.”
that they don’t just sell baked goods. They sell happiness.

While people come for the classics, Cheryl and Griffith make a
conscious effort to keep the menu fresh. After two cookbooks—
The Back in the Day Bakery Cookbook (Artisan Books, 2012) and Back
in the Day Bakery Made with Love (Artisan Books, 2015)—they
want to make sure customers can come in the bakery and find
food they’ve never tried before or wouldn’t make themselves.
There’s always upbeat music playing; Cheryl blasts Beyoncé
every morning. A lot of dancing goes on in the kitchen, too.
Frankly, Cheryl and Griffith have a lot to celebrate. A few
years ago, their first cookbook camped out on The New York
Times bestsellers list and won awards across the industry. In
2015, they were semi-finalists for the James Beard Foundation
Award for Outstanding Baker. Despite their accolades
and success, Cheryl and Griffith are most proud of their
authenticity. They’ve stayed true to themselves and their
roots as home bakers.
back in the day ti m eli n e
1969 1999
An 8-year-old Cheryl begins spending summers in The pair reconnects in Savannah
Tuscaloosa, Alabama, with her grandmother, who teaches her after spending more than a
how to bake. “My mom was adamant about making sure I decade apart—Griffith working
knew about her Southern roots, and those roots ended up as a professional musician and august 1, 2002
being the thing that Griff and I decided we wanted to hone Cheryl as a personal shopper. The duo launches Back in the Day Bakery in the now
in on when opening the bakery,” Cheryl says. flourishing Starland District of Savannah.

1973 1983
Griffith learns to bake Griffith and Cheryl meet through
from his mother in mutual friends while attending
Minneapolis, Minnesota. separate colleges in the Midwest.
Cheryl attended Griffith’s band
The Attitude’s shows. “I guess that
makes me a groupie,” Cheryl says.

Even though neither Cheryl nor Griffith is actually from the South—he is
originally from Minneapolis, Minnesota, and she is a Los Angeles native—
they’ve come to understand the soul of Southern cooking. The two met
through mutual friends while attending college in the Midwest. After college,
they went their separate ways, then reconnected more than a decade later in
Savannah. In 2001, both were ready for career changes. Cheryl had worked as a
personal shopper for her sister’s professional shopping service, and Griffith had
worked as a professional musician and then in graphic design and video editing.
They spent a year planning on a shoestring budget, combined their recipe
not somewhere transient, a tourist attraction per se. We wanted to make long-term
boxes filled with treasured heirloom recipes, and opened Back in the Day. The
connections with people because for us, that’s what a bakery is.”
bakery has been deeply interwoven in Cheryl and Griffith’s lives since. They
even tied the knot in front of the pastry display case in a spontaneous wedding Customers invite Cheryl and Griffith as guests to their weddings, funerals, and
ceremony in 2005. birthday parties, and children bring them artwork they made at school. Being a
part of their customers’ lives is what makes it all worth it, Cheryl says. “It’s much
Over the past fourteen years, Back in the Day has revived the once-struggling
easier to work the crazy hours that we work, and to do what we do, just to know
Starland District and become a gathering place and source of pride, not only
how many people have taken us in, and some have even accepted us as family.”
for the neighborhood but also for the entire city. The bakery sits under a single
palm tree at the intersection of West 40th and Bull Streets, an area that was Now working on their third cookbook, Cheryl and Griffith still have a story to
originally a merchant center for the five surrounding neighborhoods. Many tell. Cheryl is also creating a baking cookbook for children. Though Back in the
consider Griffith and Cheryl the pioneers of the now-thriving Starland District. Day has garnered attention nationwide, Cheryl and Griffith plan to remain small
“Back before we opened, Starland was very rough around the edges, but we saw and community-based, the familiar bakeshop around the corner. “We’re not here
a neighborhood that had heart,” Cheryl says. “We were adamant about opening to feed all of Savannah or to open up franchises,” Griffith says. “We decided when
up a neighborhood bakery. We wanted a place where we would have regulars, we opened that our motto would be one person baking for another person.” b

27 bake from scratch

 2011
Visitors pour in at an 2015
even greater pace when Cheryl and Griffith release
the bakery is named as their second cookbook,
a Savannah landmark Back in the Day Bakery
in The New York Times Made with Love, which
best-selling weekend offers a bread chapter and
travel guide 36 Hours hones in further on the
150 Weekends in the couple’s vintage lifestyle with
USA & Canada. handmade craft projects.

2007 2012-2013
september 3, Cheryl’s Old-Fashioned Artisan publishes The Back in the Day Bakery Cookbook, a collection of Cheryl and
2005 Cupcakes achieve cult status Griffith’s family heirloom recipes that they started with and still make at the bakery
This newspaper photo with thousands of orders sold per every day. The cookbook becomes a New York Times bestseller and wins the 2013
shows a local judge and week after the treat is mentioned Southern Independent Booksellers Alliance Cookbook of the Year.
Back in the Day regular in The New York Times article
marrying Cheryl and “36 Hours in Savannah, GA.”
Griffith in an impromptu Cheryl appears on Paula Deen’s
ceremony in the bakery. cooking show.

Photos excerpted from The Back in the Day Bakery Cookbook by Cheryl Day
and Griith Day (Artisan Books, 2012) and Back in the Day Bakery Made
with Love by Cheryl Day and Griith Day (Artisan Books, 2015)
from the pantry

For the flakiest, most decadent baked goods,

there’s just no substitute for real butter
BY PAULA FORBES
“
It’s like buttah!”
On Saturday Night Live, Mike Myers’ oft-verklempt Coffee Talk host, Linda Richman, used that phrase to
describe literally everything good in the world. It’s not every ingredient that inspires such passion. “Like
cabbage” or “like peanut butter” just doesn’t have the same ring.

When I was growing up, butter definitely signified good times: The low-fat, low-cal 90s were heavy on
margarine in my parents’ house, but special occasions and holidays called for the real deal. Thanksgiving
was a riot of full-fat sweet cream butter—in the mashed potatoes, under the turkey skin, and best of all, in
the piecrusts.

When it comes to baking, butter can play many roles. It’s a fat, obviously, that along with flour forms the
texture of doughs and batters. In piecrusts, butter is responsible for the flakiness. In chocolate chip cookies,
butter teams up with brown sugar to add chew. Once you get into more advanced pastries, butter is used in
laminated doughs—that is, dough that’s layered with butter and rolled thin before baking. Lamination is
what gives croissants their signature layers and puts the “Cro” in Cronut.

summer 2016 30
Butter can add flavor as well—particularly browned butter—and when melted and brushed on dough
before baking, it turns the surface of pastries and breads golden brown. It makes lemon curd luscious and
caramel glisten. Butter forms the body of buttercream frosting, giving it that luxurious texture.

There is a great fat debate when it comes to piecrusts. Lard receives accolades, sure, and a lard crust can be
a bit easier to work with. Shortening is even easier to work with. But, as cookbook author Dorie Greenspan
asserts in her beloved book Baking, “There is no substitute for butter.” Those who have the patience for an
all-butter pie dough will be rewarded with a tender, flaky crust. Luckily for those who don’t, though, many
cookbooks recommend a combination of butter and either lard or shortening to combine flavor, flakiness,
and ease of use.

One drawback? Doughs and batters that use butter can turn out somewhat wooden if overworked. To
help ensure flaky, tender pastries, I like to use a high-end European-style butter. These have a lower water
content and, more importantly, a higher percentage of butterfat. That extra bit of richness can help create
better flakiness and more layers, especially when working with laminated doughs. Fair warning: European
butters use cultured milk, which can often result in a slight tang in the finished product. Some people enjoy
the added flavor, but if you’re not one of them, a good-quality American butter works great, too.

Whether you use European- or American-style, only unsalted butter will do. The quantity of salt in salted
butters is not standardized, and cookbooks almost always test recipes with unsalted butter. (This goes for all
recipes, not just baking recipes.) If you use salted butter in addition to the amount of salt the recipe calls for,
you’ll likely get an oversalted result.

Don’t even think about substituting margarine or spreads in buttery baking recipes. The moisture content
is different than in butter and will alter the texture of the dough, and often the resulting baked goods will
taste of chemicals.

After all, there’s a reason everything good tastes, well, like butter.
Whether you’re a fan of the European-style cultured butters or good ol’ American sweet cream, you should
be baking with unsalted butters. Here’s a selection of our favorites that are available across the United States,
in both styles.

Plugra Land-O-Lakes European Style Challenge

Made in the United States, Plugra Super Premium Challenge is a great organic
is probably the most widely Land-O-Lakes is the standard for choice, and is probably the best
available European-style butter and many bakers—here you get that supermarket butter available.
Paula’s personal go-to. classic flavor with the added bonus
of more butterfat. Trader Joe’s Organic Butter
Kerrygold And, finally, a budget option:
Sweet and rich, Kerrygold naturally Cabot Creamery Trader Joe’s (shown below in their
has an intense yellow coloring Cabot sources their cream from nondescript packaging) sells one of
thanks to cows that feast on the family farms, and makes a rich, the least expensive organic butters
green, green grasses of Ireland. slightly tangy butter. available, and it works great in
baking. b

summer 2016 32
 bakers
DOZEN
2016

THE PITA MASTER THE GRAIN PIONEER THE INVENTOR

THE COOKIE DOUGH ENTREPRENEUR THE BISCUIT QUEEN THE INNOVATOR

 THE REALITY ROCK STAR THE WOMEN’S WARRIOR THE ICON

THE GIRL WONDER THE PALEO PÂTISSIER THE BLOGGER

In our Inaugural Baker’s Dozen,

we salute the movers and
shakers who are shapIng the
future of the bakIng world.
From bloggers to social activists to
cookie dough entrepreneurs, here are
13 standouts who are pushing baking
boundaries in all the most delicious ways.
BY SOPHIA JONES AND MARY-KATE SHERER
THE ARTISANS ILLUSTRATIONS BY LARISSA TOMLIN
 The Pita Master
ANGEL OSBEY
Shaya | New Orleans, Louisiana
shayarestaurant.com

There was a time when you may not have

been able to leave New Orleans without
grabbing a beignet. Now that Angel Osbey
is making pita bread, you won’t leave the
Crescent City without a piece (or stack)
of Angel’s pillowy, pliable pita perfection.
This is the fluffiest flatbread known to
man. All of Angel’s homemade, wood-fired
Photo courtesy Leigh Beisch
creations bring a distinct deliciousness to
the menus of Shaya, Domenica, and Pizza
Domenica—all restaurants that are part of
The Grain Pioneer the John Besh group that helped transform
and diversify New Orleans’ culinary scene—
ALICE MEDRICH but it is Angel’s pita that has developed a
Author and blogger | Berkeley, California cult following among bakers, chefs, and
Flavor Flours: A New Way to Bake with Tef, Buckwheat, food lovers nationwide. Pita is crucial to
Sorghum, Other Whole & Ancient Grains, Nuts & Non-Wheat Flours
alicemedrich.com
the modern Israeli cuisine of Shaya, where
Executive Chef Alon Shaya, who was named
Pastry chef and teacher Alice Medrich popularized the chocolate truffle in the U.S. the 2015 James Beard Best Chef South,
in the mid-1970s, and was one of the first people to sell cake by the slice. In her tenth handpicked Angel to bake the bread of his
cookbook, Flavor Flours: A New Way to Bake with Teff, Buckwheat, Sorghum, Other Whole & Ancient birthplace. Angel has never been to the
Grains, Nuts & Non-Wheat Flours (Artisan Books), Alice offers a collection of gluten-free Middle East, but this bread tastes like a dear
recipes that feature non-wheat varieties of flour as the hero ingredient. Flavor Flours family recipe she’s been baking for decades.
breaks the mold in gluten-free baking by celebrating non-traditional flours, where After graduating in 2010 from Café Reconcile,
many before her simply used them to fill the gap left by wheat. “There was a time 40 a non-profit that gives at-risk youth culinary
years ago when the flourless chocolate cake was becoming the next big thing, and Julia training, Angel began an internship as a prep
Child used to joke, ‘Why are we naming a dish for what isn’t in it instead of what is in cook at Domenica. She’s now been with
it?” says Alice, who was a guest on Child’s PBS series Baking with Julia. “Then Julia went the company for six years. “Passion,” says
on to joke about the Tuna-Free Chocolate Cake. I like to think that Flavor Flours is a Angel, when asked what makes her pita so
book about what is in the recipes, not what is missing from them.” unparalleled. “I put a lot of love into it.”

35 bake from scratch

The Paleo Pâtissier
JENNI HULET
Author and blogger | Dallas, Texas
The Urban Poser; My Paleo Patisserie
theurbanposer.com

Jenni Hulet, the voice behind The Urban Poser and author of My Paleo The Inventor
Patisserie, didn’t choose to pull all dairy and grains from her diet. BEN HARRIS
In early 2011, the yoga instructor and active mom was suddenly
Drop Kitchen Inc. | San Francisco, California
incapacitated by excruciating muscle pains all over her body—the getdrop.com
result of severe food sensitivities. A lover of cooking, baking, and
entertaining, Jenni was forced to reevaluate her family’s lifestyle— In baking, precision is key. With the interactive Drop
until one long-shot gluten-free baking experiment. “It was the first Recipe App and Drop Kitchen Scale ($99.95), Ben Harris
thing I’d baked in a year and I used to bake so much,” Jenni says. “It and his team at Drop Kitchen Inc. leverage innovative
was like, ‘I can bake again! Oh my goodness!’” So began her journey technology to simplify cooking for home bakers and
into the world of gluten- and dairy-free baking. She longed for the professionals alike. The free app offers hundreds of
artisan approach to baking and complex flavors that she once loved, recipes and step-by-step instructions. The scale wirelessly
so that’s what she painstakingly recreated, through multiple rounds connects to the app, and allows users to weigh ingredients
of trial and error. Now, Jenni’s blog and cookbook are filled with as they work through a recipe. It can rescale quantities
sophisticated baking recipes tailored for people who suffer from food and substitute ingredients in any of Drop’s recipes. “The
intolerances. These are no simple flourless brownies. With striking most important thing, especially in a baking recipe, is the
photography and bakery-level recipes for treats of all kinds, My Paleo proportion of ingredients to each other, so we started with
Patisserie (Victory Belt Publishing, 2015) and The Urban Poser give people the scale itself,” says Ben, who founded Drop with three
who live a gluten-free or paleo lifestyle the chance to enjoy food and other tech-minded creatives and designers in his homeland
baking with gusto, despite food allergies. She’s blazing one tasty trail. of Dublin, Ireland, in 2012. “By using the smart scale, we
actually remove the need for cups or measuring because
we know exactly how much of an ingredient you’re
adding.” The app and scale won the 2014 Best Consumer
Hardware Award at San Francisco’s Launch Festival, and
Ben was one of the youngest finalists nominated for
Ireland’s 2015 Entrepreneur of the Year Award. By bringing
recipes to life with this scale of the future, Ben has
facilitated foolproof baking. We’re thrilled to have a mind
this resourceful on our side in the kitchen.

summer 2016 36
 The Blogger
MOLLY YEH
Blogger | Grand Forks, North Dakota
My Name is Yeh
mynameisyeh.com

Molly Yeh, the force behind the wildly popular

blog My Name is Yeh, is like a millennial Pioneer
Woman. She grew up and went to school
around big cities—now she’s living the farm
life with her husband in the Midwest. Her
blog started as a journaling outlet during her
years studying percussion at Julliard in New
York, but while at school the once-persnickety
eater, who at one time ate only orange foods
and white bread, discovered a love of food
through the restaurant scene. The blog soon
veered from an online journal into a bona The Artisans
fide food blog. Featuring recipes that run
AMY STRINGER-MOWAT
the gamut from Chocolate Cake with Halva
Filling and Tahini Frosting to Bacon and Egg
AND BILL MOWAT
Shengjian Bao, Molly’s blog is a compilation of AHeirloom | Brooklyn, New York
aheirloom.com
her exploration of and experimentation with
the foods of her Jewish and Chinese heritage, When Amy Stringer-Mowat and Bill Mowat made their first set of cutting boards,
Midwestern culture, and her travels. Paired they didn’t expect it to become a business. What started as a personal project
with quirky stories about her chickens, an for decorations at their wedding turned into a burgeoning company touted for
unapologetic lack of proper capitalization, and its beautifully designed cutting boards, cocktail muddlers, and—our personal
liberal use of text-speak, My Name is Yeh has favorite—cake stands, with more product designs in the works. Just like the first
captured the eyes and hearts of readers—and cutting boards, each product is inspired by something the Mowats want for a
industry professionals. After snagging multiple family occasion. The cake stands came from an unused idea for their wedding
blogging awards in 2015, Molly is now taking decor (Amy wanted one on each table), and the cupcake stands were dreamed
on her first book project—and it’s sure to be up for their son’s birthday party. “Our projects are often inspired by family
something we’ve never seen before. celebrations and doing things that are very personal to us, and they become these
larger projects that resonate with other people as well,” Amy says. Featuring a
signature celebratory vibe, sleek and modern designs, and responsibly sourced
hardwood in every product, AHeirloom has become known for creating everyday
kitchen serving ware and tools that are also pieces of art.
The Innovator plastic containers just weren’t cutting it. When she realized how
ADRIENNE BLUMTHAL well a wine crate did the job, PieBox was born. Sturdy and more
stylish than alternative carriers, each of the boxes is crafted by
PieBox | Atlanta, Georgia
piebox.com
independent woodworkers, hand-assembled, and hand-branded.
From its roots in the Blumthals’ living room and garage in 2012 to a
Time, effort, and love go into each baker’s creation. So why not team of about 10 people in a woodworking shop, the company has
put the same care into the packaging? For Adrienne Blumthal, this grown rapidly and offers leather carrying straps as well as CakeBox
thought became the concept that changed her life. She needed a and CookieBox variations. Adrienne attributes the popularity to
sturdy and attractive way to transport the treats she’d spent hours the essence of PieBox: pretty enough to present your pie, but simple
perfecting while in pastry school. Flimsy cardboard boxes and bulky enough not to distract from it.

summer 2016 38
The Women’s Warrior
JESSAMYN WALDMAN
RODRIGUEZ
Hot Bread Kitchen | New York City
The Hot Bread Kitchen Cookbook: Artisanal Baking from Around the World
hotbreadkitchen.org

Sweet Mexican conchas, crispy Armenian lavash, and flaky

Moroccan m’smen are only a few of the fresh breads that
emerge daily from the ovens of the Hot Bread Kitchen (HBK).
In 2007, Jessamyn Waldman Rodriguez quit her job as (the
first female) bread baker at New York City’s Daniel restaurant
and launched HBK from her home, training immigrant and
minority women in artisan bread baking to help them secure
better jobs in the city’s competitive food industry. Today,
participants of the nine-month program make and profit
from the authentic breads of their homelands while honing
their culinary chops. The program allows participants to
improve their skills in English as a second language while
getting hands-on kitchen training with some the most
accomplished bakers in New York City. The program places
graduates in full time jobs with access to benefits. They earn,
on average, 70% more than they did before the training. “To
me, the most fulfilling moments happen when confidence is
instilled: watching the Bakers in Training graduates manage
other women, or hearing a trainee from the Dominican
Republic speak in unhesitating English during her time in
the classroom,” says Jessamyn, who spent a decade working
in immigration advocacy before entering the baking
industry. “When woven together, these individual stories of
perseverance and achievement are a testament to the power of
Hot Bread Kitchen’s innovative model and the profound impact
of our mission.” You can find the women’s multi-ethnic bread
recipes in The Hot Bread Kitchen Cookbook (Clarkson Potter, 2015).
 The Cookie Dough
Entrepreneur
OMAR MAMOON
Dough & Co. | San Francisco, California
doughand.co

Members of #teamdough (our Editor-in-Chief’s dream

come true) rejoice over Omar Mamoon’s egg-free cookie
dough, a dough that you can finally eat without the
risk of getting sick. Dough & Co. is one of the country’s
only purveyors of handmade, safe-to-eat cookie dough
The Reality Rock Star in the country. Since founding Dough & Co. from his
EDD KIMBER apartment in 2013, Omar has singlehandedly mixed and
packaged each batch. Instead of adding eggs, Omar uses
Author and blogger | London, England
a mixture of whole white chia seeds, pure Madagascar
The Boy Who Bakes; Say It With Cake; Patisserie Made Simple
theboywhobakes.co.uk vanilla extract, and water, giving his cookies a nuttier
taste. Omar’s relationship with cookie dough began
Edd Kimber lives the Cinderella story most bakers across the world only while dating a girl who was health conscious with a
dream of. Once a debt collector who dreaded going to work each day, weakness for fresh-baked cookies. “Being the good
Edd’s life changed when he stepped into the tent of the reality baking boyfriend I was, I made her cookies often,” Omar says.
competition The Great British Bake-Off during its first season in 2010. He “I had to run to the store weekly to grab an extra stick
won—and quit his job two days later. After the show, Edd created of butter or baking soda, to the point where I figured I
a distinctive brand for himself with his wry voice and clean images could just make a bunch of cookie dough at one time.”
on his blog, The Boy Who Bakes. He utilized social media to gain a mass When dough kept disappearing from the fridge (his
following, and since the blog’s launch, Edd has opened a pop-up bakery, girlfriend was sneaking bites), he realized he should
created a successful food writing and styling career, and authored three create egg-free dough that could be consumed raw.
cookbooks: The Boy Who Bakes (Kyle Books, 2011), Say It With Cake (Kyle Dough & Co. offers brownie and chocolate chip flavored
Books, 2012), and Patisserie Made Simple (Kyle Books, 2014). From his first cookie dough packaged in what he calls “doughritos,”
appearance on reality television to the release of his latest book, which cookie dough shaped and sized to the dimensions of your
received rave reviews from The New York Times, we’ve had the unique average burrito. There’s nothing
pleasure of witnessing Edd’s evolution from amateur baking hobbyist to like unwrapping that gloriously
culinary all-star—he’s documented his journey and shared every step gold foil to chomp down on
along the way. Edd has no plans to slow down any time soon. People some rich, gooey dough. For
are drawn to Edd, not only because he is a talented baker, but because $49, you get four doughritos,
he is an inspiration even outside of the kitchen. He took his dream and which bakes 40-48 cookies—
turned it into a reality. that is, if you can stop yourself
from eating all the dough.

summer 2016 40
 The Biscuit Queen biscuit business, in 2005. The business took off, shipping about 9,000
CARRIE MOREY handmade biscuits in its first year and more than 1.5 million in 2015.
Recently, the company expanded to include Callie’s Hot Little Biscuit,
Callie’s Charleston Biscuits | Charleston, South Carolina
calliesbiscuits.com
a spin-off grab-and-go restaurant with locations in Charleston and
Atlanta. From classic buttermilk biscuits and crowd-favorite ham biscuits
Carrie Morey is a biscuit-making Wonder Woman. This to biscuit sandwiches and biscuit bowls, we’re truly inspired by Carrie’s
entrepreneurial mom has managed to spend the last decade use of her mother’s simple base recipe to build an ever-growing and
not only raising three daughters—quite the task in itself— evolving menu that keeps customers and critics coming back for more.
but also starting and growing a business from the ground up. As the popularity of this simple Southern breakfast staple continues to
Inspired and assisted by her mom, Callie, a celebrated caterer grow nationwide—popping up in storefronts and food trucks from coast
who happened to have one tasty biscuit recipe, Carrie launched to coast—Callie’s Biscuits is helping keep real-deal Southern biscuits on
Callie’s Charleston Biscuits, an online and now wholesale the national map.

41 bake from scratch

 The Girl Wonder
BREANA “BREE” BRITT
Bree’s Sweet Treats | Accokeek, Maryland
treatsbybree.com
The Icon
DORIE GREENSPAN
At the age of 12, Breana “Bree” Britt opened
Author and blogger | Westbrook, Connecticut; New York City; Paris
her own bakery. Now, as an 18-year-old she Around My French Table; Baking Chez Moi
has accomplished more than some will in a doriegreenspan.com
lifetime. From the time Bree and her mother
launched Bree’s Sweet Treats website in 2011 and Dorie Greenspan is one of the greats whose work has spanned generations
opened the physical bakery in 2012—when and helped bring food to the forefront of daily conversation. What began
Bree was 13—Bree juggled her duties as head as a disastrous first experience in the kitchen—Dorie burned down her
baker with attending high school full time parents’ newly renovated kitchen trying to make French fries at the age of
(and remaining an honor roll student). Bree’s 13—has evolved into decades of culinary brilliance from a woman whose
ability to operate a successful business at such passion for food has only grown since she properly began teaching herself
a young age makes her impressive, but it’s to cook as a 19-year-old. As one of the most influential women in French
her need to take what she’s earned from the cooking since Julia Child, Dorie has written 12 cookbooks, won six James
bakery and put it back into the community Beard and International Association of Culinary Professionals Awards, and
that makes her remarkable. When Bree was been recognized on the James Beard Foundation’s Who’s Who of Food and
five, her father suffered a traumatic brain Beverage in America. With her distinctively clever and anecdotal voice and
injury while serving in the Army during innate ability to write easy-to-follow recipes, Dorie has developed a cult
Operation Iraqi Freedom, and Bree’s great- following of home cooks and professional chefs around the world.
grandmothers began teaching Bree to bake
She is revolutionary because she takes the fuss out of French cooking and
as a distraction. As the daughter of a veteran,
has changed the way we perceive French food by making it accessible.
being a philanthropist is what Bree is most
When you read Dorie’s work, you feel like you are talking with a friend.
proud of. “It’s not about the awards or the
“Nothing makes me happier than hearing from a home baker who’s used
recognition,” Bree says. “It’s about spreading
one of my recipes to make something that she was a little afraid of making,
love and the feeling of family to everyone
but she loves what she made, and feels really good about it. I can’t tell you
who comes into the bakery and beyond. That’s
how happy it makes me when I get a letter like that,” Dorie says. “After all
always been the most important thing.” She
these years and after all the things I’ve baked, baking still feels like magic.
mentors throughout town and in the bakery,
I just feel that it’s alchemy. When I make cream puffs, I still sit by the oven
and donates to The Fisher House Foundation,
window, and watch as the puffs grow. I’m still fascinated by baking, and
which provides free or low-cost lodging
I feel like there’s always something more to learn.” Her next cookbook
to veterans and military families receiving
Dorie’s Cookies goes on sale in October of this year. b
treatment at military medical centers.

summer 2016 42
 Jam
that’s my
From cookies to crostatas, these easy recipes
spotlight the beautiful simplicity of fruit in a jar
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JIM BATHIE / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT
AND FOOD STYLING BY MARY-CLAIRE BRITTON
STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES
 Nutty Thumbprint
Cookies with Jam
page 50
cover recipe
Strawberry Jam Crumble Bars page 47

summer 2016 46
 STEP 1 > MAKE THE JAM QUICK BLACKBERRY-BLUEBERRY JAM 1 large egg, lightly beaten
Makes 2 cups 2 tablespoons (24 grams) turbinado sugar
In the height of summer, a berry surplus makes
jam a no-brainer. And the process doesn’t have Tart blackberries and sweet blueberries converge 1. For crust: In the work bowl of a food
to take over your kitchen. Here are two quick to make this beautiful summer spread. processor, place flour, granulated sugar, and
jam recipes that you can use to make cookies, salt; pulse to combine. Add butter, and pulse
cakes, and bars galore. ½ pound fresh blackberries until mixture is crumbly. Add ice water,
½ pound fresh blueberries 1 tablespoon at a time, just until dough comes
QUICK STRAWBERRY JAM 2 cups (370 grams) sugar together.
Makes 2 cups Juice of 1 lemon 2. Shape dough into a disk, and wrap tightly in
plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
This jam comes together in a snap and is good 1. In a large saucepan, combine all ingredients. 3. Preheat oven to 375°.
enough to eat by the spoonful. Stir with a wooden spoon, and let stand for 2 4. For filling: Sprinkle granulated sugar onto
hours. a Silpat or sheet of parchment paper, and
1 pound fresh strawberries, chopped 2. Bring mixture to a boil over medium-high roll dough to a 12-inch circle. Spoon Quick
1¼ cups (231 grams) sugar heat. Cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes. Blackberry-Blueberry Jam into center of circle;
Juice of 1 lemon Reduce heat to medium, and cook, stirring spread to edges, leaving a 2-inch border. Top
frequently and mashing berries with a potato with blackberries and blueberries. Fold up
1. In a medium saucepan, combine strawberries, masher, until mixture thickens, 45 minutes to 1 pastry around berries. Brush edges of dough
sugar, and lemon juice. Bring to a boil over hour. Remove from heat, and let cool for 1 hour with beaten egg, and sprinkle with turbinado
medium-high heat. Cook, stirring frequently, before transferring to a clean jar. Jam will keep sugar.
for 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low, refrigerated for up to 2 weeks. 5. Bake until golden and bubbly, 35 to 40
and cook, stirring frequently and mashing minutes.
berries with a potato masher, until mixture
thickens, 30 to 45 minutes. Remove from STRAWBERRY JAM CRUMBLE BARS
heat, and let cool for 30 minutes before Makes 16
transferring to a clear jar. Jam will keep STEP 2 > BAKE WITH JAM
refrigerated for up to 2 weeks. These make a great breakfast, afternoon snack,
These easy recipes spotlight the jammy jewels or casual dessert. The strawberry jam may also be
of summer. They work beautifully with our exchanged for any other flavor you might fancy.
Strawberry and Blackberry-Blueberry varieties.
But even if you don’t make your own jam (we 1½ cups (210 grams) all-purpose flour
won’t judge), you can’t go wrong with a favorite 1¼ cups (110 grams) old-fashioned oats
jar from your local farmers’ market. ¾ cup (173 grams) unsalted butter, melted
¾ cup (166 grams) granulated sugar
BLACK AND BLUE CROSTATA ⅓ cup (75 grams) firmly packed dark brown
Makes 1 (9-inch) tart sugar
2 teaspoons (11 grams) kosher salt
This crostata looks so refined but is remarkably 1¾ cups fresh strawberries, chopped
simple to execute. Make the pastry dough a day or 1½ cups Quick Strawberry Jam (recipe
two ahead of time to make the process even easier. precedes)

Crust: 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Line an 8x8-inch

1⅓ cup (186 grams) all-purpose flour baking pan with parchment paper, and spray
1 tablespoon (12 grams) granulated sugar with baking spray with flour.
1 teaspoon (6 grams) kosher salt 2. In a medium bowl, stir together flour, oats,
½ cup (115 grams) cold unsalted butter, melted butter, sugars, and salt with a wooden
cubed spoon until crumbly. Press half of mixture
5 to 8 tablespoons ice water into bottom of prepared pan. Sprinkle with
strawberries, and cover with Quick Strawberry
Filling: Jam. Sprinkle remaining crumble on top.
¼ cup (46 grams) granulated sugar 3. Bake until golden brown and bubbly, 55
¾ cup Quick Blackberry-Blueberry Jam minutes to 1 hour. Let cool on a wire rack for
(recipe precedes) 20 minutes. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour
¾ cup fresh blackberries before slicing.
¾ cup fresh blueberries

47 bake from scratch

Black and Blue Crostata
Sugared Jam Cake
SUGARED JAM CAKE
Makes 1 (8-inch) cake

If you love jelly donuts, this cake just might

blow your mind. And if you choose to eat it for
breakfast, then we say you just won summer. NUTTY THUMBPRINT
COOKIES WITH JAM
Cake: Makes about 40
2 cups (312 grams) all-purpose flour
1¼ cups (242 grams) sugar Even if you don’t think you’re “a cookie person,”
1½ teaspoons (9 grams) baking powder these cookies will prove you wrong. The cookie
1 teaspoon (6 grams) kosher salt itself is well-balanced: slightly sweet, lightly salted,
1 teaspoon grated fresh nutmeg and chock-full of nuts. The jam center seals the
¾ cup whole milk deal. Each one is a bite of perfection.
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (145 grams)
unsalted butter, melted 1 cup walnuts
2 large eggs 1 cup pecan halves
½ teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla bean paste 1 teaspoon (6 grams) kosher salt, divided
¾ cup Quick Blackberry-Blueberry Jam 1 teaspoon grated fresh nutmeg, divided
(recipe on page 47) 1 cup (226 grams) unsalted butter, softened
⅔ cup (146 grams) sugar
Topping: 2 large egg yolks
½ cup (93 grams) sugar ½ teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla bean paste
1 teaspoon (4 grams) ground cinnamon 2 cups (280 grams) all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt ¾ cup Quick Strawberry Jam (recipe on
¼ cup (58 grams) unsalted butter, melted page 47)

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray an 8-inch 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Line baking sheets
round cake pan with baking spray with flour, with parchment paper.
and line with parchment paper. 2. In the work bowl of a food processor,
2. For cake: In a medium bowl, whisk together combine walnuts, pecans, ½ teaspoon
flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and nutmeg. In (3 grams) salt, and ½ teaspoon nutmeg. Pulse
a large bowl, whisk together milk, melted butter, until combined and nuts are finely ground,
eggs, and vanilla bean paste. Add milk mixture about 30 seconds. Transfer mixture to a small
to flour mixture, stirring just until combined. bowl, and set aside.
Pour half of batter into prepared pan. Spoon 3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
remaining batter into a large piping bag. Pipe a paddle attachment, beat butter and sugar
ring around the inside edge of the pan. Spoon at high speed until flufy, about 3 minutes.
Quick Blackberry-Blueberry Jam into center of Reduce speed to medium, and add yolks and
the ring. Pipe remaining batter on top of jam, vanilla bean paste, stopping to scrape sides of
and smooth with an ofset spatula. bowl. With mixer running on low speed, add
3. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center flour, ¼ cup chopped nut mixture, remaining
comes out clean, 55 minutes to 1 hour, covering ½ teaspoon (3 grams) salt, and remaining
with foil in the last 30 minutes of baking to ½ teaspoon nutmeg. Increase mixer speed to
prevent excess browning, if necessary. Let cool medium, and beat just until mixture comes
in pan for 10 minutes. together, 2 to 3 minutes.
4. For topping: In a small bowl, stir together 4. Roll dough into 1-inch balls. Roll balls in
sugar, cinnamon, and salt. Run an ofset spatula remaining nut mixture to coat, and place
around edge of pan to loosen cake before 2 inches apart on prepared pans. Using your
turning out. Turn cake back over (so dome is on thumb or the back of a spoon, gently make an
top). Brush top and sides of cake with melted indentation in center of each ball.
butter. Sprinkle top with sugar mixture, and 5. Bake for 10 minutes; remove from oven,
press into sides of cake. and press down centers again. Fill centers of
cookies with Quick Strawberry Jam. Return
to oven, and bake until lightly browned, 3 to 5
minutes more. Let cool on pans for 2 minutes.
Remove from pans, and let cool completely on
wire racks. b
pulled
ApA r T
Sometimes there’s nothing more satisfying than
eating with your hands. A craving for monkey bread
spurred us to create these loaves—all using the
same basic bread dough—that are meant to be picked
apart, bite by delicious bite.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARCY BLACK SIMPSON

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY
MARY-CLAIRE BRITTON
BETH K. SEELEY
STYLING BY
Bananas Foster Monkey Breads
page 58
Maple-Bacon Cheddar
Pickle Loaf
page 55

summer 2016 54
BASIC PULL-APART BREAD DOUGH flour, beating until a soft dough forms. (Dough Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free place
Makes 1 (8x4-inch) loaf, 1 (9-inch) round braid or star, 14 will be sticky.) (75°) until doubled in size, about 45 minutes.
rolls, or 6 jumbo monkey breads 3. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. Place 4. Preheat oven to 350°.
dough in bowl, turning to grease top. Loosely 5. Bake until golden brown and a wooden pick
This is what we call a “gateway dough.” It is cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free place inserted in center comes out clean, 45 minutes
simple, forgiving, and incredibly adaptable. That’s (75°) until doubled in size, about 1 hour. to 1 hour, covering with foil to prevent excess
what makes it so dangerous. Make this dough a browning, if necessary. Let cool in pan for 20
few times and you might wake up one morning to NUTELLA CRUNCH BRAID minutes before inverting onto a serving plate.
discover that you’ve become a full-blown bread Makes 1 (9-inch) braid
maven. *We used Nutella.
This braided loaf is almost too pretty to eat.
⅔ cup warm whole milk (105° to 110°) Almost. It combines the richness of chocolate and MAPLE-BACON CHEDDAR
1 tablespoon (12 grams) sugar hazelnut with our basic dough for a treat that’s PICKLE LOAF
1 (0.25-ounce) package (8 grams) active perfect for breakfast or dessert. Makes 1 (8x4-inch) loaf
dry yeast
3 cups (420 grams) all-purpose flour, 1 recipe Basic Pull-Apart Bread Dough Pickles? In bread? Oh heck yes. The brininess of
divided (recipe precedes) the pickles are what make this savory bread so
¼ cup (58 grams) unsalted butter, melted ½ cup chocolate-hazelnut spread* brilliant.
2 large eggs ½ cup toasted hazelnuts, finely chopped
1 teaspoon (6 grams) kosher salt 1 large egg, lightly beaten 8 slices thick-cut bacon
¼ cup pure maple syrup
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the 1. Spray a 9-inch round cake pan with cooking 1 recipe Basic Pull-Apart Bread Dough
paddle attachment, combine warm milk, sugar, spray. (recipe precedes)
and yeast. Let stand until foamy, about 10 2. On a lightly floured surface, turn out dough. 4 tablespoons (60 grams) unsalted butter,
minutes. Punch dough down, and gently shape into a melted and divided
2. With mixer running on low speed, add 1 cup ball. Cover and let rest for 10 minutes. 1 (8-ounce) block sharp Cheddar cheese,
(140 grams) flour, beating just until combined. 3. Roll dough into a 16x14-inch rectangle. grated
Add melted butter and ½ cup (70 grams) flour, Spread chocolate-hazelnut spread onto dough, 1 cup bread-and-butter pickles, chopped
beating until combined. Beat in eggs. Gradually and sprinkle with toasted hazelnuts. Starting
add salt and remaining 1½ cups (210 grams) with one long side, roll dough into a log; pinch 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Line a baking sheet
seam to seal. Place log, seam side down, on with foil and parchment paper.
a cutting board, and cut in half lengthwise. 2. Place bacon slices on prepared pan. Drizzle
Carefully twist dough pieces around each maple syrup over bacon. Bake until crisp, 25 to
other, and place in prepared pan, cut sides up. 30 minutes. Let cool; crumble bacon.
3. On a lightly floured surface, turn out dough.
Punch dough down, and gently shape into a
ball. Cover and let rest for 10 minutes.
4. Roll dough into an 18x16-inch rectangle.
Brush with 2 tablespoons (30 grams) melted
butter, and sprinkle with bacon, Cheddar, and
pickles. Using a knife or pizza wheel, slice dough
lengthwise into 4 equal strips. Stack strips one
on top of the other, and cut into 4x3-inch
rectangles.
5. Spray an 8x4-inch loaf pan with cooking
spray, and prop pan at an angle on a book or
other object so pan is not flat.
6. Stack rectangles on their sides in prepared
pan. Top with any fillings that came loose.
Loosely cover and let rise until doubled in size,
30 minutes to 1 hour.
7. Preheat oven to 350°.
8. Drizzle remaining 2 tablespoons (30 grams)
butter on top of loaf, and bake until golden
brown, 40 to 45 minutes, covering with foil
30 minutes into baking time to prevent excess
browning, if necessary. Let cool for 20 minutes
before inverting onto a serving plate. Turn right
side up to serve.
Nutella Crunch Braid
 Pesto Sun-Dried Tomato Rolls

57 bake from scratch

PESTO SUN-DRIED TOMATO ROLLS 1950s. We simply put two and two
Makes 14 together. The result: this magic mess.

It’s like pizza—but so much prettier. This basil- ¼ cup (58 grams) unsalted butter
tomato bread feeds our Italian cravings and is 1 cup (247 grams) firmly packed light
the perfect appetizer for summer gatherings. We brown sugar
promise you won’t have leftovers. ½ cup heavy whipping cream
2 tablespoons bourbon
1 recipe Basic Pull-Apart Bread Dough Pinch of kosher salt
(recipe on page 55) 5 ripe bananas, sliced
Pesto (recipe follows) 1½ cups (278 grams) granulated sugar
1 (8-ounce) jar oil-packed sun-dried 1 tablespoon (9 grams) ground cinnamon
tomatoes, roughly chopped 1 recipe Basic Pull-Apart Bread Dough
6 ounces goat cheese, crumbled (recipe on page 55)

1. Spray a 9-inch round cake pan with baking spray. 1. Spray a 6-cup jumbo muin pan with 1 recipe Basic Pull-Apart Bread Dough
2. On a lightly floured surface, turn out dough. cooking spray. (recipe on page 55)
Punch dough down, and gently shape into a 2. In a large skillet, melt butter over ½ cup blackberry jam or preserves
ball. Cover and let rest for 10 minutes. medium-high heat. Add brown sugar, stirring 1 large egg, lightly beaten
3. Roll dough into a 16x14-inch rectangle. occasionally, until mixture is amber colored,
Spread Pesto onto dough, and sprinkle with 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat, and 1. On a lightly floured surface, turn out dough.
sun-dried tomatoes and goat cheese. Starting stir in cream, bourbon, and salt. Add sliced Punch dough down, and gently shape into a
with one long side, roll dough into a log; pinch bananas, tossing to coat. Set aside until slightly ball. Cover and let rest for 10 minutes.
seam to seal. Slice into 14 rolls. Place rolls in thickened and cool enough to handle, 15 to 20 2. Divide dough into 4 equal pieces, and shape
prepared pan. Cover and let rise in a warm, minutes. each into a ball. Roll first ball into a 9½-inch
draft-free place (75°) until doubled in size, 3. In a medium bowl, stir together granulated circle, and place on a sheet of parchment paper
about 45 minutes. sugar and cinnamon. On a lightly floured on a baking sheet. Press a 9-inch round cake
4. Preheat oven to 350°. Bake until golden surface, turn out dough. Punch dough down, pan over dough to make an indention that
brown, about 30 minutes. Let cool in pan for and gently shape into a ball. Cover and let rest will serve as your guide. Spread one-third of
30 minutes. for 10 minutes. jam onto dough, being careful to stay inside
4. Using kitchen shears, snip dough into 1-inch the impression you created with the pan. Roll
Pesto pieces. Roll dough pieces in cooled caramel second ball of dough into a 9½-inch circle (it
Makes ½ cup sauce, and dredge in sugar mixture to coat. doesn’t have to be perfect—the edges will be
Place about 1 tablespoon caramel and bananas trimmed), and place on top of the first jam
2 cups fresh basil in bottom of each muin cup. Top with 3 to layer. Make another indention with cake pan,
1 cup walnuts 4 sugar-coated dough balls. Repeat layers, and spread with one-third of jam. Roll third ball
¾ cup grated Parmesan cheese drizzling with caramel and bananas, and topping into a 9½-inch circle, and repeat procedure.
3 cloves garlic with 3 to 4 more dough balls. Drizzle once Roll fourth ball into a 9½-inch circle, and place
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice more with caramel and bananas. Place muin on top. Mark the edge with the cake pan, and
⅓ cup olive oil pan in a roasting pan to prevent dripping into trim around edges of all four layers with a sharp
Salt and pepper, to taste bottom of oven. Let rise in a warm, draft-free paring knife, discarding excess dough. Cover
place (75°) for 25 to 30 minutes. loosely with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until
1. In the work bowl of a food processor, pulse 5. Preheat oven to 350°. slightly firm, 20 to 30 minutes.
together basil, walnuts, Parmesan, garlic, 6. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center 3. Mark the center of the circle, and make a
and lemon juice until finely chopped and well comes out clean, 30 to 35 minutes. Let 2½-inch diameter indention around it with a
combined. With processor running, add oil in a cool in pan for 10 minutes before turning round cutter or measuring cup. Using a paring
slow, steady stream until incorporated. Add salt monkey breads out onto their tops to let cool knife, make 16 cuts equidistant from the outer
and pepper to taste. Pesto may be kept in an completely. (This will allow the caramel to edge of the inner circle to the edge of the large
airtight container in the refrigerator for up to harden slightly, so they can be served right- circle, cutting through all four layers. Take two
1 week or frozen for up to 2 months. side up without completely falling apart.) Serve adjacent strips, and twist them away from each
warm with a drizzle of any remaining caramel. other twice. Use your finger to seal the inner
BANANAS FOSTER MONKEY seam. Turn the outer corners under, and press
BREADS BLACKBERRY JAM STAR to seal. Repeat with all remaining strips. Cover
Makes 6 Makes 1 (9-inch) star loosely with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at
least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours.
Everyone loves monkey bread. Everyone loves This one is a show-stopper. Before you think you 4. Preheat oven to 375°. Brush star with
bananas Foster, a decadent dessert created at can’t do it, take a look at our step-by-step guide beaten egg, and bake until golden and pufed,
New Orleans' Brennan's Restaurant in the early (page 60). See? Not as difficult as you thought. 30 to 45 minutes.
 Blackberry Jam Star
page 58

59 bake from scratch

 How To Make Our Jam Star

Divide dough into four equal pieces, and shape On a sheet of parchment paper, roll one piece Use a 9-inch cake pan to make an indentation
into balls. of dough into a 9½-inch circle. in the dough.

Spread about ⅓ of jam onto dough round, being Roll out remaining pieces of dough into circles, Make another indentation with a 9-inch cake
careful to stay inside the circle indentation. and place atop first round, alternating dough and pan on top of stack; trim the edges.
jam, finishing with the fourth and final circle of
dough on top.

Use a ruler to mark the center. With a 2½-inch Use a paring knife to make 16 equidistant cuts Take two adjacent strips and twist them twice,
round cutter, make a circle indentation in the all the way through the dough-jam stack, from away from each other, using your fingers to seal
center. the outside of the inner circle all the way to the the inner seam. Repeat all the way around the
outer edge. loaf. b
 ri h ni i i ou e
BY LISA DONOVAN
PH
H OG
G PHY
HY Y E/F I G BY E L / SSTY
TY I .
ABOUT THE BAKER

Lisa Donovan is the

undisputed hand pie queen
of the South.
Though she’s worked in restaurants
and kitchens since she was
seventeen—including Nashville’s
esteemed City House—it was her time
at Husk restaurant and her friendship
with chef Sean Brock that cemented
her role as a translator of historic
foods and arbiter of the modern
Southern palate. Her and Sean’s joint
passion for storytelling through
the plate helped evolve her now Roasted
Strawberry
trademark style of serving old recipes
in new and thoughtful ways. She’s
one of the reasons you see fine dining
restaurants throughout the region
ending meals with old-school pies and
church supper-style cakes. The hand
pies featured here combine traditional Dried Apple
recipes with Lisa’s deft approach to
layering flavor to create what we think
of as palm-sized bites of heaven.

Lemon Thyme
and Blackberry

Spicy Green
Tomato Jam
 Hand Pies with Dried Apple Filling
page 67

65 bake from scratch

HAND PIES
Makes 15

Lisa Donovan’s Pie Dough, rested and chilled (recipe

follows)
1 large egg
1 tablespoon water
Desired filling, chilled (recipes on page 67)
Specified garnish

1. Cut dough in half, and roll each half to ⅛-inch

thickness. Using a 4½-inch round cutter, cut dough,
rerolling scraps once. Place rounds between sheets of
parchment paper, and refrigerate for 5 to 7 minutes.
Combine dough scraps, and reserve for another use, if
desired.
2. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
3. Whisk together egg and 1 tablespoon water. Once
pie rounds are chilled, take them out, one at a time,
and brush edges with egg wash. Fill with 1½ tablespoons
desired filling. Fold dough over filling, and press to seal.
Trim with a fluted pastry cutter to further seal. Place on
prepared pan, and freeze.
4. Preheat oven to 450°.
5. Brush frozen hand pies with egg wash, and top with
specified garnish, if desired. Make three small vents in
dough using a paring knife. Bake until evenly browned, 15
to 18 minutes.

LISA DONAVAN’S PIE DOUGH

Makes dough for 15 hand pies

2½ cups plus 3 tablespoons (377 grams) all-purpose

flour
1 tablespoon (18 grams) kosher salt
2 cups (460 grams) unsalted butter, cubed
½ cup ice water, divided

1. In a medium bowl, combine flour and salt. Toss butter

into dry ingredients, and break apart before beginning
to work together. Work butter into dry ingredients with
your hands, making shmears and buttery flakes. You are
looking to incorporate all the butter into the flour without
overworking. If butter starts to feel warm, cool it of in the
refrigerator at any time. Every piece of butter should be
incorporated with some flour before you begin to add the
water.
2. To incorporate the water, start by drizzling ¼ cup cold
water over flour and butter mixture. Using your hands,
toss water into flour until it is fully absorbed. Continue
adding water as needed until dough begins to form a ball.
Once you feel your flour has become a dough and feels
moist but not wet or sticky, give it a few strong kneads
to work it all together. Your dough should be tacky and
supple feeling, but not sticky or moist. Shape dough into a
flat disk, and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least
30 minutes.
 ThE SPICY GREEN TOMATO JAM
FILLING
12 cups fresh strawberries, roughly chopped
1 cup (185 grams) granulated sugar, divided

FiLlInGs Makes about 1½ cups

I’ve been using a lot of green tomatoes this past

1 tablespoon lemon zest
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
⅛ teaspoon (0.75 grams) kosher salt
year in sweet applications—from cobblers to hand Garnish: coarse sugar
DRIED APPLE FILLING pies. The inspiration comes directly from working
Makes about 1½ cups with and around chefs like Vivian Howard, Steven 1. Preheat oven to 425°.
Satterfield, and Angie Mosier who all have an 2. In a large shallow baking dish (preferably
This dried apple hand pie is very dear to me. The efervescent love of the green tomato. This filling metal as it will help caramelize the fruit slightly),
crust belongs to me, and the filling belongs to takes on both sweet and savory notes, reminding toss together strawberries, ½ cup (93 grams)
my Aunt Ruby and all the women in my Floyd, me of the pepper jelly my mom used to pour over granulated sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice, and
Virginia, family. Aunt Ruby dried her apple slices her cream cheese squares for all of her women’s salt.
on the screened porch after her daughter brought cofees (what army wives called their chat and 3. Roast strawberries for 10 to 15 minutes
in the bushels from the family orchard. By my and chews). before stirring. Taste and assess the amount of
Aunt Ruby’s estimation, this recipe dates back liquid released and begin to determine natural
over 130 years. It incorporates black pepper and 1 pound green tomatoes, seeded and sweetness and pectin release. Add granulated
cream because, much like every other antebellum chopped into ¼-inch pieces sugar in ¼ cup (46 grams) increments until
recipe from that area, it was solely based on 1½ cups (278 grams) sugar flavor is correct, roasting between each
what was on hand. Traditional baking spices like ¼ cup honey addition. Continue to cook and stir fruit until it
cinnamon were hard to come by, and so it was 2 jalapeños, stemmed, seeded, and sliced jams slightly, 30 to 40 minutes. (It will thicken
discovered that black pepper and cream combined 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar as it cools.) Refrigerate before using. Garnish
to play with the fruit in a far more complex, yet ¾ teaspoon (4.5 grams) kosher salt hand pies with coarse sugar, if desired.
similar, way as the expensive and hard-to-source 3 whole cloves
spices of the time. It’s a recipe that deeply moves 2 whole star anise pods LEMON THYME AND BLACKBERRY
me every time I make it. 1½ teaspoons black peppercorns FILLING
Makes about 1½ cups
3 cups dried apples, sliced 1. In a large bowl, combine tomatoes, sugar, and
5 cups unsweetened apple cider honey. Cover and let stand overnight or up to Every year in Nashville, there is a secret trail
¼ cup (55 grams) firmly packed light brown 24 hours to macerate. where I take myself to pick wild blackberries. They
sugar 2. In a large Dutch oven, combine macerated stain my hands for days, and most of them are
½ tablespoon lemon zest tomatoes (including all juices), jalapeño, gone before I make it back to my kitchen. Lemon
1½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice vinegar, and salt. Place cloves, star anise, and is blackberry’s natural bedfellow as far as I’m
½ teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt peppercorns on a piece of cheesecloth, and concerned.
½ teaspoon ground black pepper tie with kitchen twine to create a sachet. Place
¼ teaspoon grated fresh nutmeg sachet in tomato mixture. Cook over medium 4 cups fresh blackberries
½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds heat, stirring often, until tomatoes begin to 1 cup (185 grams) granulated sugar
scraped and reserved break down and jam registers 215° to 220° ¼ cup water
¼ cup heavy whipping cream on a candy thermometer. Remove sachet. 1½ teaspoons lemon zest
Garnish: ground black pepper Process half of tomato mixture in a blender and 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
combine with remaining unprocessed mixture. 2 lemon thyme sprigs, pulled and lightly
1. In a large saucepan, soak dried apples in apple Refrigerate before using. chopped
cider for 1 hour. ¼ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
2. Bring apple mixture to a boil over medium ROASTED STRAWBERRY FILLING 1½ tablespoons (13.5 grams) cornstarch
heat; boil for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to Makes about 2½ cups Garnish: coarse sugar
medium-low, and simmer for 40 minutes.
With a slotted spoon, transfer apples to a deep I’m not going to lie, I was trying to make a 1. In a large stockpot, bring blackberries,
baking dish, reserving cider. strawberry taste as much like Smucker's as I granulated sugar, ¼ cup water, lemon zest,
3. Preheat oven to 400°. possibly could without adding a ton of sugar lemon juice, lemon thyme sprigs, and salt
4. Toss apples with brown sugar, lemon zest, or corn syrup. What I discovered was, that in to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat to
lemon juice, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and vanilla roasting them at a high temperature, they would medium-low, and let simmer. Remove 1 cup
bean seeds. let go of their own sugars and then you can hot liquid, and whisk in cornstarch. Slowly
5. Bake until filling begins to break down, 30 season the strawberries with sugar as they roast— add cornstarch mixture back into simmering
to 40 minutes, stirring frequently and adding almost like you might with salt for a savory dish. mixture, stirring constantly.
reserved cider as needed to prevent drying This allows that deeply unctuous strawberry flavor 2. Continue cooking until blackberries have
while baking. Let cool for 10 minutes. Gradually instead of strawberry-flavored sugar. I use this softened and sauce has reduced enough to
stir in cream. Refrigerate before using. Garnish method to cook most of the good fruit I get my become viscous when chilled. Refrigerate
hand pies with pepper, if desired. hands on, because I want it to taste like the fruit, before using. Garnish hand pies with coarse
not my sugar bowl. sugar, if desired. b
67 bake from scratch
 cool, creamy

of summer
When temperatures
spike, nothing beats
the heat like an ice
cream sandwich. Build
your own with these
mix-and-match cookies
and creams, and you’ ll
be the neighborhood
hero this summer.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN O’HAGAN / STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES

 Lemon Shortbread and
Strawberry Buttermilk Ice
Cream Sandwiches
the cookies
thecookies
CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES
Makes about 24
2
1
½
½
½
¼
teaspoons (2 grams) ground ginger
teaspoon (6 grams) kosher salt
teaspoon (6 grams) baking soda
teaspoon (2 grams) ground cloves
teaspoon (2 grams) ground allspice
cup (54 grams) turbinado sugar (optional)

This is our idea of the quintessential chocolate 1. Preheat oven to 350°.

chip cookie. Rolling the dough between sheets of 2. In a medium bowl, beat butter, granulated
parchment and stamping out rounds after baking sugar, and molasses with a mixer at medium
results in perfectly round cookies, just right for speed until flufy. Add egg yolks and vanilla
making beautiful ice cream sandwiches. bean paste, beating until combined, stopping to
scrape sides of bowl. In a medium bowl, whisk
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (130 grams) together flour, ginger, salt, baking soda, cloves,
unsalted butter, softened and allspice. Gradually add flour mixture to
2 cups (440 grams) firmly packed dark butter mixture, beating until combined. CHOCOLATE COOKIES
brown sugar 3. Divide dough in half. Roll each piece of Makes 24
⅓ cup (62 grams) granulated sugar dough between two sheets of parchment paper
2 large eggs to ¼-inch thickness. Remove top pieces of These cookies remind us of elementary school
7 tablespoons heavy whipping cream parchment paper, and transfer bottom pieces snack breaks. Use them to build an ice cream
1 teaspoon (5 grams) vanilla bean paste and dough onto baking sheets. sandwich that eats like a homemade version of the
4 cups (560 grams) all-purpose flour 4. Sprinkle with turbinado sugar just before ones you bought from the ice cream truck with
1 teaspoon (6 grams) baking soda baking, if desired. Bake until slightly pufed your allowance.
1 teaspoon (6 grams) kosher salt and just beginning to brown, 10 to 13 minutes.
2 cups semisweet chocolate morsels Using a 2½-inch fluted round cutter, cut ½ cup (115 grams) unsalted butter, softened
rounds while still hot. Let cool before separating ½ cup (110 grams) firmly packed dark brown
1. Preheat oven to 350°. rounds from scraps. sugar
2. In a large bowl, beat butter and sugars with a ¼ cup (46 grams) granulated sugar
mixer at medium speed until flufy. Add eggs, LEMON SHORTBREAD 1 large egg
cream, and vanilla bean paste, beating until Makes about 20 1 teaspoon (5 grams) vanilla bean paste
combined, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. In 1½ cups (210 grams) all-purpose flour
a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking This light, crisp lemon shortbread is delightful by ⅓ cup (36 grams) Dutch process cocoa
soda, and salt. Gradually add flour mixture to itself, but we like it best paired with strawberry- powder
butter mixture, beating until combined. Fold in buttermilk or pistachio ice cream. ½ teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
chocolate morsels. ¼ teaspoon (1 gram) baking powder
3. Divide dough in half. Roll each piece of 1 cup (230 grams) unsalted butter, softened
dough between two sheets of parchment paper 1 cup (128 grams) confectioners’ sugar 1. In a medium bowl, beat butter and sugars with
to ¼-inch thickness. Remove top pieces of 1 teaspoon (5 grams) vanilla bean paste a mixer at medium speed until flufy. Add egg
parchment paper, and transfer bottom pieces Zest of 3 lemons and vanilla bean paste, beating until combined,
and dough onto baking sheets. 2 cups (280 grams) all-purpose flour stopping to scrape sides of bowl. In a medium
4. Bake until slightly pufed and just beginning ½ teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt bowl, whisk together flour, cocoa, salt, and
to brown, 10 to 13 minutes. Using a 2½-inch baking powder. Gradually add flour mixture to
round cutter, cut rounds while still hot. Let cool 1. In a medium bowl, beat butter and butter mixture, beating until combined. Shape
before separating rounds from scraps. confectioners’ sugar with a mixer at medium dough into a disk, and wrap in plastic wrap.
speed until flufy. Add vanilla bean paste and Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.
GINGER COOKIES lemon zest, beating until combined, stopping 2. Preheat oven to 350°. Line 2 baking sheets
Makes about 24 to scrape sides of bowl. In a medium bowl, with parchment paper.
whisk together flour and salt. Gradually add 3. Divide dough in half, and roll each piece of
These ginger cookies are wonderfully soft and flour mixture to butter mixture, beating until dough between two sheets of parchment paper
heavy on the spice—the perfect juxtaposition to combined. Divide dough in half, and shape into to ¼-inch thickness. Using a 2½-inch round
cool, creamy ice cream. 2 disks. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. cutter, cut dough, rerolling scraps as necessary.
2. Preheat oven to 325°. Line 2 baking sheets Place on prepared pans. Using a wooden pick,
½ cup (115 grams) unsalted butter, softened with parchment. make decorative indentations in tops of cookies
½ cup (93 grams) granulated sugar 3. On a lightly floured surface, roll each disk to if desired.
¼ cup unsulphured molasses ¼-inch thickness. Using a 2½-inch fluted round 4. Bake until slightly pufed, about 7 minutes.
2 large egg yolks cutter, cut dough. Place on prepared pans. Let cool completely on wire racks.
1 teaspoon (5 grams) vanilla bean paste 4. Bake until firm but not browned, 7 to
1½ cups (210 grams) all-purpose flour 8 minutes.
summer 2016 72
 Chocolate Chip and Roasted
Pistachio Ice Cream Sandwiches

PRO TIP: Ice cream sandwiches

can be assembled and frozen,
individually wrapped, in plastic
wrap for up to 2 months.

73 bake from scratch

Ice cream sandwiches can be frozen overnight, dipped in Chocolate Shell (recipe on page 76), and garnished
with Maldon sea salt, crushed pistachios, and freeze-dried strawberries (ground in a food processor).
the creams
thecreams
BROWN SUGAR VANILLA BEAN
ICE CREAM
1
2¼
1½
2
½
4
tablespoon fresh lemon juice
cups whole milk
cups heavy whipping cream
tablespoons corn syrup
teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
large egg yolks
Makes 1 quart 2 tablespoons (18 grams) cornstarch
¼ cup whole buttermilk
Brown sugar adds depth and nuance to classic
vanilla ice cream. 1. Preheat oven to 375°.
2. Place strawberries, ¼ cup (46 grams)
2 cups heavy whipping cream sugar, and lemon juice in a small baking dish,
1 cup whole milk tossing to combine. Bake until fragrant, 8
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds to 10 minutes.
scraped and reserved 3. Transfer berries with juices to the
¾ cup (165 grams) firmly packed dark container of a blender. Secure lid on
brown sugar blender, and remove center piece of lid
1 tablespoon light corn syrup to let steam escape; place a clean towel
¼ teaspoon (1 gram) kosher salt over opening in lid to avoid splatters. Purée
5 large egg yolks strawberries, and set aside to let cool.
2 tablespoons (18 grams) cornstarch 4. In a heavy 4-quart saucepan, combine
milk, cream, corn syrup, salt, and remaining
1. In a heavy 4-quart saucepan, combine ⅔ cup (133 grams) sugar. Bring to a simmer.
cream, milk, vanilla bean, vanilla bean seeds, In a large bowl, whisk together egg yolks
brown sugar, corn syrup, and salt. Bring to and cornstarch. Add about ½ cup hot milk
a simmer. In a large bowl, whisk together mixture to egg mixture, whisking constantly.
egg yolks and cornstarch. Add about ½ cup Add egg mixture to remaining hot milk
hot milk mixture to egg mixture, whisking mixture, whisking to combine. Cook,
constantly. Add egg mixture to remaining whisking constantly, until mixture coats the
hot milk mixture, whisking to combine. back of a spoon, 7 to 8 minutes. Remove
Cook, whisking constantly, until mixture from heat, and let cool for 10 minutes.
coats the back of a spoon, 7 to 8 minutes. Stir in strawberry purée and buttermilk.
Remove from heat, and let cool for 10 Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or
minutes. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 overnight.
hours or overnight. 5. Pour mixture into a gel-type countertop
2. Pour mixture into a gel-type countertop freezer. Freeze according to manufacturer’s
freezer. Freeze according to manufacturer’s instructions. (Ice cream will be soft.)
instructions. (Ice cream will be soft.) 6. Line a 2-inch-deep 10x8-inch baking pan
3. Line a 2-inch-deep 10x8-inch baking pan with parchment paper. Spread ice cream into
with parchment paper. Spread ice cream into pan. Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate
pan. Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or overnight.
for at least 8 hours or overnight. 7. Using a 2½-inch round cutter, cut
4. Using a 2½-inch round cutter, cut rounds, and place between prepared
rounds, and place between prepared cookies. Wrap each sandwich in plastic
cookies. Wrap each sandwich in plastic wrap, and freeze.
wrap, and freeze.
DEEP DARK CHOCOLATE ICE
STRAWBERRY BUTTERMILK ICE CREAM
CREAM Makes 1 quart
Makes 1 quart
Velvety and rich, this ice cream is for those
Buttermilk and strawberries ofer a tangy twist of us who simply Cannot. Get. Enough.
on berries and cream. It’s a match made in ice Chocolate.
cream heaven.
2½ cups whole milk
1 cup fresh strawberries, hulled and 1½ cups heavy whipping cream
halved ½ cup (93 grams) sugar
⅔ cup (133 grams) plus ¼ cup (46 grams) ½ cup (54 grams) unsweetened cocoa
sugar, divided powder
½ cup chopped 64% chocolate hot milk mixture, whisking to combine.
2 tablespoons corn syrup Cook, whisking constantly, until mixture
½ teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt coats the back of a spoon, 7 to 8 minutes.
4 large egg yolks Remove from heat, and let cool for 10
2 tablespoons (18 grams) cornstarch minutes. Cover and refrigerate for at least
4 hours or overnight.
1. In a heavy 4-quart saucepan, combine 2. Pour mixture into a gel-type
milk, cream, sugar, cocoa, chocolate, countertop freezer. Freeze according to
corn syrup, and salt. Bring to a simmer. manufacturer’s instructions. When ice
In a large bowl, whisk together egg yolks cream begins to harden, add chopped
and cornstarch. Add about ½ cup hot pistachios. (Ice cream will be soft.)
milk mixture to egg mixture, whisking 3. Line a 2-inch-deep 10x8-inch baking
constantly. Add egg mixture to remaining pan with parchment paper. Spread ice
hot milk mixture, whisking to combine. cream into pan. Cover with plastic wrap,
Cook, whisking constantly, until mixture and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or
coats the back of a spoon, 7 to 8 minutes. overnight.
Remove from heat, and let cool for 10 4. Using a 2½-inch round cutter, cut
minutes. Cover and refrigerate for at least rounds, and place between prepared
4 hours or overnight. cookies. Wrap each sandwich in plastic
2. Pour mixture into a gel-type wrap, and freeze.
countertop freezer. Freeze according to
manufacturer’s instructions. (Ice cream will CHOCOLATE SHELL
be soft.) Makes about 1½ cups
3. Line a 2-inch-deep 10x8-inch baking
pan with parchment paper. Spread ice Dress up your ice cream sandwiches with a
cream into pan. Cover with plastic wrap, little extra chocolate. Simply dip them into
and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or this chocolate sauce. It hardens on contact
overnight. with ice cream and is super simple to make
4. Using a 2½-inch round cutter, cut using a microwave. You may never use the
rounds, and place between prepared store-bought stuf again!
cookies. Wrap each sandwich in plastic
wrap, and freeze. 1½ cups semisweet chocolate morsels
3 tablespoons coconut oil
ROASTED PISTACHIO ICE
CREAM 1. In a medium microwave-safe bowl,
Makes 1 quart combine chocolate and oil. Microwave
on high in 30-second intervals, stirring
Roasted, salted pistachios—and lots of between each, until chocolate is melted
them—make this ice cream irresistible. and smooth. b

2½ cups whole milk

1½ cups heavy whipping cream
½ cup (93 grams) sugar
½ cup roasted salted pistachios, finely
ground
2 tablespoons corn syrup PRO TIP: Spread ice cream
½ teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt into a parchment-lined baking
4 large egg yolks pan, and freeze for at least 8
2 tablespoons (18 grams) cornstarch hours. Cut ice cream using
¼ cup roasted salted pistachios, roughly a round cutter, and place on
chopped cookies for picture perfect ice
cream sandwiches.
1. In a heavy 4-quart saucepan, combine
milk, cream, sugar, ground pistachios,
corn syrup, and salt. Bring to a simmer.
In a large bowl, whisk together egg yolks
and cornstarch. Add about ½ cup hot
milk mixture to egg mixture, whisking
constantly. Add egg mixture to remaining
 My, M y,

american
Pie
From sea to shining sea, the fruits of the
season are rolling in by the bushel.
Maine blueberries, Georgia peaches,
Washington cherries, and California
plums inspired these fruit-tastic
creations that capture the peak
of the season in a piecrust.
OUR FAVORITE PIECRUST
Makes 2 (9-inch) piecrusts

This crust is flaky, tender, and performs like a champ. Use the highest
quality butter you can find for the best outcome. Need butter
suggestions? See From the Pantry (page 32).

2¾ cups (415 grams) all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons (24 grams) sugar
2 teaspoons (12 grams) kosher salt
1 cup (230 grams) cold unsalted butter, cubed
10 to 14 tablespoons ice water

1. In the work bowl of a food processor, place flour, sugar, and salt;
pulse to combine. Add butter, and pulse until mixture is crumbly.
Add ice water, 1 tablespoon at a time, just until dough comes
together.
2. Divide dough in half, and shape each half into a disk. Wrap
tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Dough
may be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 2 months.
79 bake from scratch
California Plum Pie 1. In a large bowl, toss together plums, 1 cup
Makes 1 (9-inch) pie (185 grams) granulated sugar, lemon zest,
lemon juice, fresh ginger, ground ginger, salt,
Sweet and spicy, this plum pie makes the most of and pepper. Let stand for 30 minutes.
summer’s stone fruit bounty. Ginger and black pepper 2. On a lightly floured surface, roll half of
add a subtle kick. Serve with ice cream for an extra dough to a 12-inch circle. Transfer to a 9-inch
special treat. pie plate, pressing into bottom and up sides.
Freeze for 30 minutes.
2 pounds plums, pitted and sliced (8 to 10 3. Preheat oven to 400°.
plums) 4. Strain plum mixture through a colander into
1 cup plus 1 tablespoon (197 grams) granulated a large bowl. Reserve ½ cup plum liquid; discard
sugar, divided remainder.
1 lemon, zested and juiced 5. In a small saucepan, combine reserved ½ cup
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger plum liquid, pectin, and remaining 1 tablespoon
1 teaspoon (2 grams) ground ginger (12 grams) granulated sugar. Cook over
1 teaspoon (6 grams) kosher salt medium-high heat, whisking constantly, until
½ teaspoon ground black pepper pectin dissolves and mixture thickens slightly, 3
1 recipe Our Favorite Piecrust (recipe on page to 4 minutes.
78) 6. Toss drained plum mixture with cornstarch. Pour
2 tablespoons (16 grams) low-sugar fruit pectin into prepared crust. Drizzle with pectin mixture.
2 tablespoons (18 grams) cornstarch 7. On a lightly floured surface, roll remaining
1 large egg, lightly beaten dough to a 12-inch circle. Cut dough into
2 tablespoons (24 grams) turbinado sugar triangles, and layer on top of filling. Brush with
beaten egg, and sprinkle with turbinado sugar.
Place pie on a baking sheet.
8. Bake for 20 minutes. Reduce oven
temperature to 375°, and bake until golden
brown and bubbly, 35 to 40 minutes more. Let
cool for at least 1 hour before slicing.
81 bake from scratch
Maine Blueberry Pie
Makes 1 (9-inch) pie

This pie is made with the freshest blueberries—and not much

else! We’d happily eat this one morning, noon, and night.

1 recipe Our Favorite Piecrust (recipe on page 78)

5 to 6 cups fresh blueberries
1 cup (185 grams) granulated sugar
1 lemon, zested and juiced
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds scraped and reserved
3 tablespoons (27 grams) cornstarch
1 teaspoon (6 grams) kosher salt
1 large egg, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons (24 grams) turbinado sugar

1. On a lightly floured surface, roll half of dough to a 12-inch

circle. Transfer to a 9-inch pie plate, pressing into bottom
and up sides. Trim dough to ½ inch beyond edge of plate. Fold
edges under, and crimp as desired. Freeze for 30 minutes.
2. Preheat oven to 375°.
3. In a medium saucepan, combine blueberries, granulated
sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice, vanilla bean seeds, cornstarch,
and salt over medium heat. Stir gently, being careful not to
crush berries. Bring to a simmer, and cook until thickened,
5 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat, and let cool. Pour filling
into prepared crust.
4. On a lightly floured surface, roll remaining dough to
¼-inch thickness. Using a sharp knife or pizza wheel, cut
dough into ½-inch strips. Braid dough strips, and arrange
on top of filling, tucking ends under. Reroll scraps and cut
remaining dough into long ¼-inch strips. Braid dough strips,
and arrange around the edge of piecrust. Brush dough with
beaten egg, and sprinkle with turbinado sugar. Place pie on a
baking sheet.
5. Bake until golden brown and bubbly, 40 to 50 minutes,
covering with foil to prevent excess browning, if necessary.

summer 2016 82
83 bake from scratch
 1. In a large bowl, toss together peaches, 1 cup (185 grams) sugar,
lemon zest, lemon juice, and salt. Let stand for 30 minutes.
2. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough to a 12-inch circle.
Transfer to a 9-inch pie plate, pressing into bottom and up sides.
Trim dough to ½ inch beyond edge of plate. Fold edges under,
and crimp as desired. Reroll scraps, and use a decorative cutter
to cut shapes. Place on outer edge of piecrust. Freeze for 30
minutes.
3. Transfer 1 cup peach mixture to a small bowl, and mash with
a fork. Strain remaining peach mixture through a colander
Georgia Peach Pie into another large bowl. Reserve ½ cup peach liquid; discard
remainder. Return drained peaches to large bowl, and toss with
Makes 1 (9-inch) pie cornstarch.
4. Preheat oven to 400°.
Fresh peaches, buttery pie crust, and a straight-up 5. In a small skillet, whisk together reserved ½ cup peach liquid,
bonkers streusel make this pie an absolute favorite. pectin, nutmeg, vanilla bean seeds, and remaining 2 tablespoons
Don’t be surprised if serving a single slice elicits wild (24 grams) sugar. Cook over medium heat until pectin is
proclamations of undying love. dissolved and mixture is slightly thickened, 3 to 4 minutes.
6. Toss together peach mixture and reserved 1 cup mashed
3 pounds fresh peaches, peeled, pitted, and peaches; pour into prepared crust. Drizzle with pectin mixture.
sliced Top with Brown Butter Pecan Streusel. Place pie on a baking
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (209 grams) sugar, sheet.
divided 7. Bake for 20 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 375°, and
1 lemon, zested and juiced cover pie loosely with foil. Bake until golden brown and bubbly,
½ teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt 30 to 35 minutes more.
½ recipe Our Favorite Piecrust (recipe on page
78) Brown Butter Pecan Streusel
1 tablespoon (9 grams) cornstarch Makes about 1 cup
2 tablespoons (16 grams) low-sugar fruit pectin
1 teaspoon grated fresh nutmeg ¼ cup (58 grams) unsalted butter
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds scraped ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (79 grams) all-purpose flour
and reserved ⅓ cup toasted chopped pecans
Brown Butter Pecan Streusel (recipe follows) ¼ cup (46 grams) granulated sugar
2 tablespoons (24 grams) firmly packed dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon (6 grams) kosher salt

1. In a small saucepan, melt butter over

medium heat. Cook until butter turns a
medium-brown color and has a nutty
PRO TIP: Reroll aroma, about 10 minutes. Remove from
dough scraps, and heat, and let cool slightly.
cut out shapes with 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
cookie cutters to pecans, sugars, and salt. Add brown butter,
decorate edges of pie.
stirring with a wooden spoon until crumbly.
85 bake from scratch
Washington Cherry Pie
Makes 1 (9-inch) pie

Nothing compares to fresh cherry pie. This recipe is simple and

classic, sure to become a staple on your summer to-do list.

5 to 6 cups fresh sweet cherries, pitted

⅔ cup (124 grams) granulated sugar
½ cup water
¼ cup (32 grams) cornstarch
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds scraped and reserved
Our Favorite Piecrust (recipe on page 78)
1 large egg, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons (24 grams) turbinado sugar

1. In a medium saucepan, combine cherries, granulated sugar,

½ cup water, cornstarch, lemon juice, and vanilla bean seeds
over medium-high heat. Stir gently to combine. Bring to a
boil, and reduce heat to low. Cook until thickened, stirring
frequently, being careful not to crush cherries, about 10
minutes. Remove from heat, and let cool.
2. Preheat oven to 375°.
3. On a lightly floured surface, roll half of dough to a 12-inch
circle. Transfer to a 9-inch pie plate, pressing into bottom and
up sides. Spoon cherry filling into dough.
4. On a lightly floured surface, roll remaining dough to a
12-inch circle. Cut dough into strips of varying widths. Place
dough strips on pie in a lattice design. Trim dough strips, fold
edges under, and crimp as desired. Brush with beaten egg, and
sprinkle with turbinado sugar. Place pie on a baking sheet.
5. Bake until golden brown and bubbly, 40 to 50 minutes. Let
cool for at least 2 hours before slicing.
 WINNER WINNER PIE DINNER
, ,
It’s no secret that Americans are competitive. Whether it’s football, air guitar, or eating,
there’s an event where the gladiators of the field can vie for the title. It’s so serious, there’s
even a group called Major League Eating that sanctions competitive eating events across the
country. From big profile eat-offs to small town jamborees, here are some of the best spots
to watch someone end up with pie on their face.

MAY Daffest JUNE Columbia Station

7 Sarnac Lake, New York 25 Homecoming Festival
daffest.com Columbia Station, Ohio
columbiastation.com/homecomingfestival
MAY Pokez Vintage and Antique Fair .html
14 Winston Salem, North Carolina
hootsflea.com JULY Fourth of July at the Greenbrier
4 White Sulphur Springs,
MAY California Strawberry Festival West Virginia
21-22 Oxnard, California greenbrier.com
strawberry-fest.org
AUGUST Huckleberry Festival
JUNE Rotary Car Show 12-14 Trout Creek, Montana
17 Bountiful, Utah huckleberryfestival.com
bountifulrotary.com

JUNE Rulfs Orchard Strawberry Festival

25 Peru, New York
rulfsorchard.com

87 bake from scratch

pie break
Planning a road trip this summer?
Here are four spots across the country
to get a taste of regional specialties.

Washington Cherry Pie

Beck’s Harvest House Country Kitchen
Colbert, Washington
Pie made with cherries harvested from the
surrounding orchard at this U-Pick farm
and café, with a view of Mount Spokane
greenblufffarms.com

Maine Blueberry Pie

Moody’s Diner
Waldoboro, Maine
The sort of local institution—open since
1927—where you tuck into a booth, order
a slice of homemade pie, and your server
is destined to call you “hon”
moodysdiner.com

Georgia Peach Pie

Greenwood’s on Green Street
Roswell, Georgia
Towering slices of flaky pie overflowing
with ripe Georgia peaches; one of the
area’s first Main Street-style joints to
embrace farm-to-table back in 1986
greenwoodsongreenstreet.com

California Plum Pie

Gjusta
Venice, California
A sprawling bakery-café-hangout just
blocks from Venice Beach where plums in
season make their way into tarts, pies, and
galettes galore
gjusta.com b

summer 2016 88
 he esential...

pa r k e r
h o us e
roll
Summer picnics, Sunday suppers, neighborhood potlucks—
no matter the occasion, this feather-light, buttery bread
is the only dinner roll recipe you’ll ever need

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN O'HAGAN

A bread-basket classic, these rolls originated at Boston’s Parker House
Hotel in the 1870s and were a staple throughout the 19th century. As time went on,
people began making these super-rich buttery rolls at home. If your grandmother
made bread, she likely made Parker House Rolls. But that’s not to say they all looked
the same. Some people created circular pockets, others tended toward a more
angular bill-fold style. And some stuck to a more basic round roll. But no matter the
shape, they all shared the same basic dough and were built on piles of butter. To this
day, it’s hard to beat the feathery lightness of a tender Parker House Roll.
PRO TIP:
When you begin mixing the dough,
pull out a couple of sticks of butter to
soften at room temperature. By the
time the dough has come together
and risen, your butter will be ready to
tuck into your rolls as you shape them.
PRO TIP: PARKER HOUSE ROLL DOUGH
Butter is key to success with Parker House Rolls—you add more at nearly every step Makes about 50 pocket rolls, 32 square rolls,
of the process. Be sure to use unsalted butter so you have control over exactly how or 25 round rolls
much salt ends up in the recipe.
1½ cups warm whole milk (110°), divided
¼ cup (46 grams) sugar
2 teaspoons (7 grams) active dry yeast
4 to 4½ cups (560 to 630 grams) all-purpose
flour, divided
6 tablespoons (90 grams) unsalted butter,
melted
2 large eggs (120 grams)
2 teaspoons (12 grams) kosher salt

1. In a small bowl, whisk together ½ cup (140

grams) warm milk, sugar, and yeast. Let stand
until mixture is foamy, about 10 minutes. Stir
½ cup (70 grams) flour into yeast mixture.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
dough hook attachment, beat melted butter,
eggs, and remaining 1 cup (280 grams) milk at
low speed until combined. Add yeast mixture,
beating to combine. Add 1 cup (140 grams)
flour and salt; beat to combine. Gradually add
remaining flour, 1 cup (140 grams) at a time,
beating until dough comes together and begins
to pull away from sides of bowl, 2 to 3 minutes.
(Dough will be sticky but not unmanageable. If
dough is too sticky, add more flour, ¼ cup [35
grams] at a time, until it comes together.)
3. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. Place
dough in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover and
let stand in a warm, draft-free place (75°) until
doubled in size, 2 to 2½ hours.

PRO TIP:
Stop working the dough as soon as it
comes together in your mixer. This
particular dough gets handled quite a bit
throughout the shaping process, so you
don’t want to overwork it in the initial
mixing steps.
 PARKER HOUSE POCKET ROLLS of dough. Brush each rectangle with melted
Makes about 50 butter, and place one cube of softened butter
on bottom half of each one. Fold rectangles
The Parker House Pocket Rolls use rounds of over, and press to seal. Place rolls on prepared
dough folded over into tidy pockets to create half- pan, stacking so they overlap. Cover and let
circle bites of buttery perfection. stand in a warm, draft-free place (75°) until
pufed, about 30 minutes.
1 recipe Parker House Roll Dough (recipe 4. Brush rolls with melted butter, and bake until
on page 93) golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Brush with
¼ cup (58 grams) unsalted butter, melted melted butter, and sprinkle with salt.
8 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (125 grams)
unsalted butter, softened and cut into 50 PARKER HOUSE ROUND ROLLS
cubes Makes about 25
Maldon or sea salt
The round roll is the most versatile for dressing
1. On a lightly floured surface, turn out dough. up with diferent flavors, such as dill and Gruyère.
Divide dough in half, and gently shape each half See right for our cheesy herbaceous twist.
into a ball. Cover and let rest for 10 minutes.
2. Preheat oven to 375°. Line a baking sheet 1 recipe Parker House Roll Dough (recipe
with parchment paper. on page 93)
3. Roll one half of dough into a 14x12-inch 4 tablespoons plus ½ teaspoon (62.5 grams)
rectangle, about ¼ inch thick. Using a 2½ inch unsalted butter, softened and cut into 25
round cutter, cut dough, rerolling scraps as cubes
necessary. Repeat with second half of dough. ¼ cup (58 grams) unsalted butter, melted
Brush each circle with melted butter, and place Maldon or sea salt
one cube of softened butter on bottom half of
each one. Fold circles over, and press to seal. 1. On a lightly floured surface, turn out dough.
Place pockets, overlapping, on prepared pan. Divide dough in half, and gently shape each half
Cover and let stand in a warm, draft-free place into a ball. Cover and let rest for 10 minutes.
(75°) until pufed, about 30 minutes. 2. Preheat oven to 375°. Line a baking sheet
4. Brush rolls with melted butter, and bake until with parchment paper.
golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Brush with 3. Divide dough into 25 pieces (about 1.6
melted butter, and sprinkle with salt. ounces each). Press one cube of softened
butter into center of each piece of dough,
PARKER HOUSE SQUARE ROLLS and roll into balls. Place rolls on prepared pan,
Makes about 32 leaving no space between. Cover and let stand
in a warm, draft-free place (75°) until pufed,
While they aren’t perfectly square, these billfold- about 30 minutes.
style rolls follow the same roll, tuck butter, and 4. Brush with melted butter, and bake until
fold technique as the Pocket Rolls. golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Brush with
melted butter, and sprinkle with salt. b
1 recipe Parker House Roll Dough (recipe
on page 93)
¼ cup (58 grams) unsalted butter, melted
5 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (80 grams)
unsalted butter, softened and cut into 32
cubes POCKETS VS. SQUARE
Maldon or sea salt VS. ROUND
Other than shape, there’s not much
1. On a lightly floured surface, turn out dough. diference between our Pocket, Square, and
Divide dough in half, and gently shape each half Round rolls. Parker House Rolls are one of
into a ball. Cover and let rest for 10 minutes. those foods that are defined by memories
2. Preheat oven to 375°. Line a baking sheet as much as by technique. If you ate round
with parchment paper. rolls as a child, chances are that’s what
3. Roll one half of dough into a 14x12-inch you crave. So just pick the shape that best
rectangle, about ¼ inch thick. Using a pizza suits your preferences—they’re all proven
wheel or sharp knife, cut dough into 16 (4x3- winners.
inch) rectangles. Repeat with second half

95 bake from scratch

PRO TIP: To make Dill
and Gruyère Rolls, add
½ cup chopped fresh dill
and 6 ounces finely grated
Gruyère to Parker House
Roll Dough at end of step
2. Let rise, and follow
directions for Parker House
Round Rolls.
 Ode TO

Birhday
AN

cake

BY SARAH SIMMONS
PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILLIAM DICKEY
STYLING BY LUCY HERNDON
Chef Sarah Simmons, owner of the beloved Birds & Bubbles
on New York city’s Lower East Side, firmly believes you
don’t need a birthday to celebrate with cake
I often get quizzical looks when people hear that sauce is
my favorite food. And when it’s followed up with the fact
that birthday cake is my second favorite, they think I’m no doubt a brave labor of love to serve a chef a cake you
ridiculous. But facts are facts, and there are few things in made yourself. But sometimes, even love can’t trump
life that make me happier than a perfect piece of yellow the nostalgia tied to your local grocery store’s generic
birthday cake covered with white buttercream frosting birthday cake.
and confetti sprinkles.
The concept of pairing Southern food, often fried chicken,
Growing up in the ‘80s meant plenty of birthday parties with sparkling wines is initially what draws guests into
at the roller rink. I would skate my heart out while Birds & Bubbles, but our motto to “celebrate the everyday”
anticipating the moment the lights dimmed and the is what brings them back. We love having a restaurant
glow from the corner signaled the time had come. With where you don’t have to wait until Sunday supper for fried
crossed fingers I silently prayed the birthday boy or girl’s chicken, a special occasion to pop a bottle of bubs, or your
parents weren’t rolling out a cart of cupcakes. A glimpse birthday to enjoy birthday cake—which, coincidentally, is
of the grand sheet cake always resulted in a sigh of relief, the most popular dessert on our menu.
with an aching fear that the cake was an imposter. While
the birthday kid blew out the candles and wished for a Birds & Bubbles original birthday cake dish resulted from
trampoline to be in the back yard when he or she got months of working to recreate what is, in my opinion, the
home, my single wish was that the cake wasn’t chocolate. holy grail of birthday cakes: the Publix sheet cake. Daily
They call it Devil’s Food for a reason. we baked fresh vanilla cakes, cut them into tiny rounds,
and layered them with sprinkles and fluffy buttercream
To me, birthday cake is white or yellow cake with white into 8-ounce Ball jars.
buttercream frosting. To get technical, wedding cake
is birthday cake with a spread of coulis or jam between As our menu offerings elegantly evolved, the birthday
the layers. Since you are essentially pre-celebrating cake dish emerged from the jar and transfigured into an
someone’s birth, one can classify cake served at a baby American take on a classic French mille feuille. Layers of
shower as birthday cake as long as it is white cake with soft yellow cake were replaced with dollops of buttercream
white frosting. But these varietals typically omit the most between stacks of rich, buttery puff pastry we’ve dipped
magical of elements: the sprinkles. in vanilla syrup and topped with an airy Italian meringue
and sprinkles. This reimagined version pushes my precious
When I started cooking professionally, my friends went limits as a birthday cake purist, but I do find comfort in at
to great lengths to find me the fanciest birthday cake— least two things: there is no chocolate and there are always
and often would even try making one from scratch. It’s lots of sprinkles.

summer 2016 98
 Sarah Simons
Birhday Cake
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake

This cake doesn’t limit sprinkles strictly to an outside garnish—they’re folded

into the actual batter. This is definitely a case of more is more.

3⅓ cups (467 grams) all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon (4 grams) baking powder
1 teaspoon (6 grams) kosher salt
½ teaspoon (6 grams) baking soda
1 cup (230 grams) unsalted butter, melted
1½ cups (278 grams) granulated sugar
½ cup (110 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar
2 large eggs
1½ cups whole milk
½ cup sour cream
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1⅓ cups multicolored nonpareil sprinkles
Buttercream (recipe follows)
Garnish: multicolored nonpareil sprinkles

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray 2 (9-inch) round cake pans with baking
spray with flour.
2. In a large bowl, stir together flour, baking powder, salt, and baking
soda; set aside.
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, pour
melted butter. Beat in sugars until thoroughly combined. Add eggs, milk,
sour cream, and vanilla, and beat until combined. Gradually add flour
mixture to butter mixture, beating until no lumps remain. (Batter will be
thick.) Using a rubber spatula, fold in sprinkles. Pour batter into prepared
pans.
4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, about 30
minutes. Let cool in pans for 10 minutes. Remove from pans, and let cool
completely on wire racks. Spread Buttercream between layers and on
top and sides of cake. Garnish sides of cake with sprinkles, if desired.

Buttercream
Makes 4½ cups

2 cups (460 grams) unsalted butter, softened

1 (2-pound) package (907.2 grams) confectioners’ sugar
Pinch of salt
¼ cup whole milk

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat
butter until creamy, 4 to 5 minutes. Gradually add confectioners’ sugar
and salt, beating until flufy. Add milk until frosting reaches a spreadable
consistency. b

99 bake from scratch

 bake the book

a bakery
blooms in
Pasadena
In her second cookbook, Little Flower Baking,
ChristIne Moore shares recIpes from the
kitchen of her beloved neIghborhood cafE,
Little Flower Candy Co.
BY SOPHIA JONES

Even though SoCal darling Christine Moore gained a loyal

following for her candy confections (chewy sea salt caramels and
handmade marshmallows), it’s the baked goods that steal the
show in the weathered brick dining room of Little Flower Candy
Co., her neighborhood café on the western edge of Pasadena.
From dense chocolate bouchons garnished with Maldon sea salt
to scones made with dried lavender buds and honey, Christine’s
creations showcase French influence with a refreshing Southern
California twist. She teamed up with Little Flower’s head baker
Cecilia Leung, Christine’s right hand woman, to chronicle Little
Flower’s beloved baking recipes in Little Flower Baking (Prospect
Park Books), released in April 2016. We sat down with both of
them to talk about their passion for pastry, what home bakers
want above all else, and how their new cookbook caters to that.

Christine, you opened Little Flower Candy Co. in 2007. How did
you come up with the name Little Flower for your café?
Christine Moore: I named it after a bottle of wine. I was making
candy and drinking wine late one night, and I noticed the
bottle was called “Petite Fleur.” I loved that name, but a lot of
the candies I was making at the time were very all-American.
So, I just switched it to Little Flower. I still have that label from
Cecilia Leung and Christine Moore that bottle of wine today.
Photos courtesy Staci Valentine

101 bake from scratch

 Peach Ricotta Scones
page 106

Photo courtesy Glen Allsop

 What makes Little Flower different from any other
neighborhood café?
Cecilia Leung: As a baker, you make the recipe so many times,
and people ask, “Gosh, doesn’t that get boring?” I say “never,”
because each time we make a recipe, we try to make it better.
That’s the constant thought at Little Flower. The majority of
the staff has been here three years or more, and that’s very
telling. When we come to work, it’s not really even coming
to work; it’s like coming home to our family. We love cooking
and serving our customers, who are also our family because
they’re an extension of us.

Christine: We love to serve. It’s an honor to feed people. I tell

my staff, “You have 200 chances every day to make someone
happy with the way you treat and feed them.” You have to
love to serve, and we do.

Cecilia: When I was in college, I would save all the interesting

articles and recipes that came in the Los Angeles Times food
section. Once, I remember there was an article about a baby
shower for one of L.A.’s best pastry chefs named Christine. For
her shower, all the city’s most renowned pastry chefs brought
Christine a dozen of their favorite cookies and the cookie
recipe. I kept the article because I told myself “Someday, I’m
going to work for one of these great pastry chefs.” Little did I
know that the article was about the Christine Moore of Little
Flower that I would be working for 13 years later.

103 bake from scratch

Cecilia came from a fine dining background, and Little
Flower’s dishes are more homey, less refined. How do your
baking styles complement each other?
Christine: Cecilia definitely had a fancy aesthetic when she first
came to Little Flower. She was used to doing plated desserts
in high-end restaurants, and I am a rustic baker. Over the five
years we’ve worked together, we’ve really met each other in
the middle. I mess up her hair, and she straightens my jacket.
It’s a kind of balance. We’ve found a great appreciation for
each other’s training.

Cecilia: Our Milk and Honey Cake and the Buckwheat Sablé
exemplify the combination of our two styles the best. Both
recipes merge what we love about pastries with our food
knowledge. Even the process and synergy in developing these
two recipes gave us the feeling “Yes, this is it! This is what I
crave to eat.”

What prompted you to write this baking book?

Christine: In 2014, I opened up another restaurant, called
Lincoln, that’s a lot bigger than Little Flower, and it’s been
wildly popular and incredibly busy. I thought before we get
on this wild ride and crazy train of opening a new restaurant,
I really want to honor all the work that we’ve done in the
last eight years at Little Flower. It’s like finishing a baby book
before the next baby comes. You know you really need to put
it all together to remember it as it is.

Cecilia: We are the neighborhood gem. We have our regulars

who come in every day. We know what they want the
moment they walk through the door. From that process, we
knew we wanted to do a baking book. As the café grew and
as we expanded our repertoire in baking, we realized that we
had over 150 recipes just for baking. The book grew by 50%
during the planning stages because we love all our recipes so
much.

How would you like Little Flower Baking to inspire those

who bake from it?
Christine: I hope that people cook their way through the
book. As a professional baker, you want the person buying
your book to feel like they can do exactly what you’re doing.
With my first book, Little Flower: Recipes from the Café (Prospect
Park Books, 2012), the most rewarding feedback was when a
woman was crying in my arms saying she got her confidence
back with cooking because the recipes were so accessible and
so doable. All home bakers ever want is a good recipe.

summer 2016 104

Amaranth
Millet Muffins
Recipes From the Pages of little flower baking
RECIPES AND PHOTOS REPRINTED , WITH PERMISSION , FROM LITTLE FLOWER BAKING (PROSPECT PARK BOOKS, 2016).

AMARANTH MILLET MUFFINS PEACH RICOTTA SCONES

Makes 6 Makes 16

Cecilia experiments all the time with alternative flours that help Summer peaches and creamy ricotta, plus buttery pastry! You can
with gluten intolerance and other digestive issues. Our customers substitute plums or nectarines.
love her for always having a treat for them in our dessert case.
This muffin is hearty, beautiful, and gluten-free. If plums aren’t in 5½ cups (660 grams) cake flour
season, substitute any fruit you love! ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
2 teaspoons sea salt
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (90 grams) brown rice flour 2 tablespoons baking powder
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (90 grams) teff flour 1½ cups (342 grams) unsalted butter, cut into ¼-inch cubes
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (90 grams) amaranth flour and chilled
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (50 grams) potato starch 1 cup (240 grams) heavy whipping cream
1 teaspoon baking powder 4 medium yellow peaches, sliced ¼ inch thick and frozen
½ teaspoon baking soda All-purpose flour, for dusting
½ teaspoon sea salt ¾ cup (168 grams) whole-milk ricotta
2½ tablespoons (30 grams) whole millet ½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped; reserve seeds
2½ tablespoons (30 grams) whole amaranth 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
2 tablespoons chia seeds ¼ teaspoon almond extract
½ cup (111 grams) water, boiling 2 medium yellow peaches, sliced ¼ inch thick, for garnish
1 cup (225 grams) soy milk ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar, for sprinkling
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (114 grams) coconut oil, melted 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (105 grams) brown rice syrup attachment, mix cake flour, sugar, salt, and baking powder on
4 plums, pitted, sliced ¼ inch thick lowest speed. Gradually add butter, mixing on low speed until
pea-size lumps form.
1. Preheat oven to 375°. Lightly coat a 6-cup muin tin with 2. Gradually add cream on low speed until the mixture just
nonstick spray. comes together. You may not need the entire amount. Add
2. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together brown rice flour, tef frozen peach slices and mix until just combined.
flour, amaranth flour, potato starch, baking powder, baking 3. Transfer dough onto a lightly floured surface. Gently pat
soda, salt, whole millet, and whole amaranth. Set aside. dough to form a 12-inch square that is 1 inch thick. With a
3. Place chia seeds in a small mixing bowl. Add boiling water chef’s knife, cut dough into 3-inch squares. Transfer scones
and mix well. Set aside for 5 minutes, allowing chia seeds to to a parchment-lined sheet pan with 1 inch of space between
absorb all the water. The chia seeds will plump up and become each scone. Press down on the center of each scone with your
gelatinous. thumb to make a divot for the ricotta cream.
4. In another small bowl, whisk together soy milk and apple 4. In a medium bowl, use a rubber spatula to combine
cider vinegar. Set aside for 5 minutes, allowing the soy milk to ricotta, vanilla bean seeds, sugar, and almond extract. Place
curdle and create a nondairy buttermilk. 1 tablespoon of ricotta cream in the center of each scone.
5. Add chia seeds, soy buttermilk, coconut oil, and brown rice Garnish with a slice of peach set of to the side of the ricotta
syrup to flour mixture. Whisk until flours completely absorb cream. Generously sprinkle sugar on top of the scones. Place in
wet ingredients. Divide batter evenly among muin cups, filling freezer to chill at least 1 hour before baking.
each cup two-thirds full. Top each muin with 3 plum slices. 5. Preheat oven to 375°. Bake 15 minutes, rotate pan, and
6. Place on middle rack and bake 20 minutes. Rotate muin continue baking until ricotta cream is golden brown and peach
pan and continue baking until juice from plum slices bubbles slices blister, about 15 more minutes. Cool 10 minutes and serve.
and becomes jammy and a toothpick inserted in center comes
out clean, about 15 more minutes. Let cool completely before Pro Tip: To split a vanilla bean pod, take the tip of a paring knife
unmolding. and run it down the center. Split one end open and hold it down
against a flat surface with thumb and index finger. Then take
the blade of the paring knife and scrape along the split pod to
extract the seeds. Splitting beans is easier if you soak them in
vanilla extract first—a win-win!

summer 2016 106

 CHOCOLATE CAKE inserted in center comes out clean, 20 to 25 more minutes. Let cool
Makes 1 (9-inch) 4-layer cake before unmolding. Wrap each layer with plastic wrap, and chill.
5. Place cake layer on cake turntable. Use a serrated knife to score edge
The brown butter frosting makes this cake extra flavorful. It’s our number- of cake to split it into two even layers. Once scored, use serrated knife in
one flavor combination at Little Flower. a sawing motion to carefully split the cake. Repeat with the other cake,
so you end up with 4 layers. Trim of domes, and frost with Brown Butter
2 cups (456 grams) unsalted butter, softened Buttercream Frosting.
4 cups (800 grams) granulated sugar
4 large eggs, room temperature Brown Butter Buttercream Frosting
2 teaspoons vanilla extract Makes 1 quart
2 teaspoons almond extract
2½ cups (560 grams) brewed coffee, room temperature 1 cup (228 grams) Brown Butter, softened (recipe follows)
2 cups (500 grams) sour cream 3⅓ cups (417 grams) confectioners’ sugar
5½ cups plus 1 tablespoon (684 grams) all-purpose flour, sifted 1½ teaspoons vanilla extract
2 cups (228 grams) Dutch-processed cocoa powder, sifted 1 teaspoon sea salt
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon baking powder 1½ teaspoons heavy whipping cream
2 teaspoons baking soda 1½ tablespoons milk
2 teaspoons sea salt
Brown Butter Buttercream Frosting (recipe follows) 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream
Brown Butter on medium speed until flufy, about 2 minutes. Add
1. Preheat oven to 350°. Line 2 (9-inch) round cake pans with confectioners’ sugar in 3 additions on low speed. Scrape bowl well with
parchment and lightly coat with nonstick spray. rubber spatula after each addition. Add vanilla extract and salt, and mix
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream until incorporated. Scrape bowl well. Add cream and milk, and mix on
butter and sugar on medium speed until flufy. Use a rubber spatula to low speed until well incorporated. Scrape bowl well. Increase speed to
scrape bowl well. Add eggs, one at a time, and mix until well combined. medium-high and cream for 2 minutes. Transfer into a smell-proof
Scrape bowl well after each addition. Add vanilla extract and almond container. Use immediately, or store covered in refrigerator up to
extract, and mix on low speed until well combined. Scrape bowl well. In a 2 weeks.
medium bowl, whisk together cofee and sour cream. Set aside.
3. In a large bowl, mix together flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, Brown Butter
baking soda, and salt. Add dry ingredients and cofee mixture alternately, To make brown butter, place butter in a medium or large saucepan over
starting and ending with dry ingredients. Scrape bowl well after each medium-high heat. Heat butter until it foams and milk solids fall to
addition. Mix on medium speed until batter is flufy and smooth, about 1 bottom of pot. Use a rubber spatula to scrape the bottom so that milk
minute. solids brown evenly without burning. Let butter foam a second time.
4. Divide batter evenly between cake pans. Bake 20 minutes, rotate Butter should have a nutty aroma. Remove from heat and let cool. b
pans, and continue baking until cake domes slightly and a toothpick

107 bake from scratch

Chocolate Cake
origin of a classic
Bermudian Rum Cake
A simple cake is elevated to
classic status when it’s infused
with the islands’ favorite tipple
BY WHITNEY DURRWACHTER
T he smell of a homemade rum cake is intoxicating.
And depending on how long it has soaked in
spirits, you can almost take that literally. Whether
the simple pound cake is fully immersed or lightly sprinkled
with rum, that distinct flavor makes this island staple shine.

The exact story of how the Bermudian rum cake came to

be is elusive. One theory is that its development is linked to
the Caribbean “black cakes” that were derived from steamed
puddings traditionally made for the holiday season. In these
cakes, dried fruit is soaked in rum for months and added to
the dough, and the final product is similar to a fruit cake.

The concept of a dessert soaked in rum may have come from

hard biscuits being dipped in the rum ration, or “tot,” given
to sailors on British Royal Navy ships. Ten years after the rum
ration officially ended in 1970, the founder of Pusser’s Rum
obtained the formula from the Royal Navy, and the rum
was available commercially for the first time. It is a tradition
for the Royal Navy to make rum cakes for special occasions
using Pusser’s Rum, and Premium British Navy Pusser’s Rum
Cakes can be purchased from the brand in collectible tins.

For Kamilah Cannonier, owner of Sweet Saak Bakery

(sweetsaak.com) in St. Georges, Bermuda, rum cake is such a
classic that she has never questioned its history. “It’s just one
of those things that’s always been there and never really had
to be explained,” she says. There’s no questioning, though,
that Bermuda is an island that appreciates good alcohol.
Kamilah says, “A good rum cake is like a bartender’s good
swizzle in Bermuda.”

The rum of choice on the island of Bermuda is often their

very own Gosling’s Bermuda Black Seal Rum. The local
business celebrated its bicentennial in 2006 and takes center
stage in Sweet Saak’s rum cake.

summer 2016 110

 Some of the bakery’s other confections are made from treasured
family recipes. But the family rum cake recipe had a little too much
“just a pinch of this and a dash of that” to be made consistently for
sale—not to mention the kind of multi-day rum soaking that would
give you a jolt as soon as you caught a whiff—so Kamilah developed
her own recipe, and patrons love it. The base of her version is a
straightforward yellow cake that allows the rum to show off. “Being
Bermudian, I tend to prefer Black Seal Rum. It is a very strong and
flavorful rum, and I like the flavor match with the cake itself. When
the rum is introduced to a cake that has sugar in it, the sweetness
actually turns down the sharpness of the rum,” she explains, noting
that another contributing factor in her rum choice is island pride.

This family-run bakeshop is equally known—and loved—for

hot commodities such as cinnamon buns, cakes, breads, and more.
From the outside, the stark-white, two-story building is
unassuming. But one step through the door and guests are greeted
with the smells of freshly baked goods and smiles from the staff—
smiles that are even brighter than the pink aprons they wear. On
any given day, Kamilah’s father might be found baking bread, her
brother a pie, and her mother making some candies. Their motto
“Welcome to the Family” couldn’t be more fitting as they make
each guest feel right at home. Though Sweet Saak is only ten years
old (young by Bermudian standards), it’s that approach—modern,
yet homey and classic—that makes their black rum-drenched cake
an island stand-out.

111 bake from scratch

Make It at Home
SWEET SAAK’S RUM CAKE
Makes 12 to 16 servings

This dense cake will transport you to your own

tropical paradise. With just one bite, you’ll almost
feel the island breeze against your face and your toes
sinking into the warm sand.

Cake:
1 cup (230 grams) unsalted butter, softened
2 cups (370 grams) sugar
4 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 cups (420 grams) all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon (12 grams) baking powder
1 teaspoon (6 grams) kosher salt
¾ cup whole milk
¼ cup Gosling’s Bermuda Black Seal Rum

Glaze:
1 cup Gosling’s Bermuda Black Seal Rum,
divided
1½ cups (192 grams) confectioners’ sugar

1. Preheat oven to 350°. Spray an 8-cup Bundt

pan with baking spray with flour.
2. For cake: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
the paddle attachment, beat butter and sugar at
medium speed until flufy, 3 to 4 minutes. Reduce
mixer speed to low. Add eggs, one at a time,
beating well after each addition. Beat in vanilla.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking
powder, and salt. Gradually add flour mixture to
butter mixture alternately with milk, beginning
and ending with flour mixture, beating just until
combined after each addition. Add rum; beat at
medium speed until well combined. Pour batter
into prepared pan.
4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted near center
comes out clean, 45 to 50 minutes.
5. For glaze: Using a wooden skewer, poke holes
in warm cake. Pour ⅓ cup rum over cake. Let cool
for 10 to 15 minutes; invert cake onto a wire rack.
Using a wooden skewer, poke holes in top of cake.
Pour ⅓ cup rum over cake.
Order from the Pros Here are two mail-order rum cakes that deliver
a taste of Bermuda right to your home.
6. In a small bowl, whisk together confectioners’
sugar and remaining ⅓ cup rum. Place cake on Horton’s Bermuda Rum Cake Company
a serving platter, and drizzle with glaze. Let set Linda Horton closely guards the Located at the Royal Naval Dockyard,
before serving, about 5 minutes. secret recipe for the Original Horton’s Bermuda Rum Cake Company ofers rum
Bermuda Black Rum Cakes. But rest cakes in flavors ranging from banana to
Note: Additional confectioners’ sugar can be assured they are drenched in rich, coconut to black rum fruit cake.
added to the glaze, 1 tablespoon at a time, to black rum. dockyardcompany.com/BermudaRumCakes/
achieve a thicker consistency. hortons.bm; $38.50 shop.html; from $15.95 b

summer 2016 112

our obsession

Old-Fashioned
Doughnuts

o What It Is € Why We Love It

Old-fashioned doughnuts are basically cake doughnuts that have been fried. This Fried. Cake. This classic doughnut style is making a
gives them a slightly crunchy outer shell that’s usually lacquered with glaze or comeback thanks to the glorious combo of its sugary
dusted with sugar. The inside tends to be less dense than the cake of your typical crunch, doughy bite, and throwback dose of nostalgia.
powdered doughnut and less airy than a Krispy Kreme-style glazed. The slightly The fact that super smart pastry mavens are ofering
irregular ring is often marked with indentations that create petal-like wedges. brilliant new flavors is just the glaze on top.

E Where to Find It
We Have Doughnuts Stan’s Donuts & Coffee Frost
Birmingham, Alabama Chicago, Illinois Seattle, Washington
These doughnuts are made by a group of friends Started in 1963 in Los Angeles, Stan’s This Seattle shop, which describes their
obsessed with perfecting the old-fashioned. has gained local cult status since opening doughnuts as “evolved,” fries up 18 diferent
The basic one is pitch-perfect, but this group in The Second City. They keep about flavors daily, including the tart and herbaceous
really shines with their playful flavors: hibiscus a half dozen old-fashioned varieties on lavender old-fashioned tinged with lemon,
(pictured), Key lime with coconut glaze, even a the menu, but we’re just crazy about the and the vanilla old-fashioned dipped in white
twist on the Southern cola-and-peanuts combo. chocolate orange. truffle chocolate with raspberry.
wehavedoughnuts.com stansdonutschicago.com frostology.com

Show us your obsession by using #thebakefeedobsession in your social media photos.

 NEW! ORDER your copy TODAY!
Hofmanmediastore.com/bake 800-361-8059

cakes In the first special issue of Bake from Scratch,

the magical mixture of we celebrate the sweetest of treats with
flour, butter, sugar, and eggs. a collection of our favorite cake recipes.