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 It is estimated that 50 per cent
of the world’s fish that is caught is wa

Of the 50 per cent that we do work with, 50 per cent o

the Western world, which overwhelmingly prefers to c

The responsibility for this issue lies first with

This book intends to disrupt, inspire, cha

and hopefully encourage the next gene

Thinking of this as a problem for individua

is hopelessly out of date.

This book is as much about intentionality as it is

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 CONTENTS

Introduction (or the Market for Lemons)

What is a Fish Butchery?
The Story So Far
How to Use this Book

CATCH
Monger vs Butcher
The Problem with Wet Fish
What is Rigor Mortis?
Dry-aged Fish
A Fish’s Journey from Sea to Store

CUT
Tools of the Trade
Scaling, Knife-scaling and Gutting
Offal Utilisation
The Cuts

CRAFT
Charcuterie
Pastries, Patties and Crumbed Goods
Snacks and Sundries
Artisanal Goods

Acknowledgements

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 INTRODUCTION

(O R T H E M A R K E T F O R L E

W hen buying a used car, we have all become handled and dry-aged.
accustomed to thinking that it may be a lemon. to know that?
(We had this experience when we bought our first And so, in fish we h
refrigerated van for Fish Butchery, but that’s a story and a race to the botto
for another day.) If you assume you might be buying subject and fall back o
a lemon – and have no knowledge of how cars work – compare.
then this places a cap on how much you are willing to However, there is a
spend. This phenomenon discourages owners of well- considerably less than
maintained quality used cars to sell them as they won’t you commit to a well-h
receive a fair price. In turn, the market fills with more expertly butchered or
and more lemons. product then you will
And so it is with fish. for more.
In every fish shop I have ever seen, fish is washed and Never before has th
stored in direct contact with ice. As a result, it has a very sustainability. Through
short shelf life, smells ‘fishy’ and sticks to the pan. communicating transp
So why should you assume that the fish at our Fish its consumers – and, o
Butchery are any different? Why would you pay double product – I believe we
the price for our fish? it with the good and o
The difference is that our fish have been meticulously in the fish industry.
sourced from excellent local fishers, brain spiked, dry-
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 W H AT IS A FI S H B U T C H

B efore we get started, I need to talk a little about to fish depending on i

what a fish butchery is, why it’s needed and how of our fish butchery, m
ours came to be. refined a number of bo
The history of meat butchery and meat-based to encourage desirabilit
preparations has long been a catalyst for my creativity These techniques range
when trying to reimagine missed opportunities with ageing, charcuterie and
a fish, and this history also underlines my thinking that can be made from
around the creation of our first Fish Butchery in It’s important to no
Paddington. as a niche concept for
The meat industry is not without its own flaws, but out the extremes of m
there would be no butcher in the world who would only creating a workable sy
strip the loins off a pig and then throw the rest away as allows families and in
waste. And yet this is essentially what we do every day approachable fish dish
all around the world with fish. Fillets are taken, the further, whether that
rest is discarded and more fish are caught to sustain burger patties, fish fin
the demand. bacon and more.
Instead, I believe that when a fish arrives to market, By recontextualising
like an animal to a butcher, there are disciplined practices desirability to otherwis
that we need to follow. These practices will vary from fish of a fish.
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 THE STORYSO FAR

F irst things first: how did we get to the point of are freshly washed eve
creating Fish Butchery? washing and the incon
Within 18 months of opening my fish restaurant are subject to on an op
Saint Peter, my team and I had developed a vast array of the offensive aromas t
techniques, dishes and relationships with fishers all over into a market or fish s
Australia. Given the footprint of the restaurant hadn’t the storage, display an
expanded and more guests were wanting to experience developed a fish shop
the work we were doing, my wife, Julie, and I felt it was of these issues.
necessary to open another business. Fish Butchery Padd
Not just another restaurant, but a space that hair salon just a few d
allowed for greater infrastructure, a larger team and Sydney’s Oxford Street
a connection to our Paddington community that perfect location for a
extended beyond a restaurant experience in pursuit however it was just do
of greater standards. had been a cafe many
What also played into the decision was our need as we were at Saint Pet
to diversify where our fish were going. If a single fish exhaust and pre-existin
arrives on day one, what were the steps we would take wheels could turn quic
to achieve the maximum return? It may be that we Aesthetically, Julie
would need to produce a terrine, a ham, pâté from its by the orientation of t
liver, centre-cut fillets, bone-in chops, consommé from in Melbourne. Unfortu
the bones, salted and smoked hearts and spleens. But found in Paddington
not all these products could be bottlenecked onto one still allowed us to be i
single Saint Peter menu. visibility and transpare
If we were going to continue to be a restaurant that When we opened F
only served fish then we would need to create our own objective was to displa
fish shop. a single slice or whole
A fish shop to me – when I was a kid, at least – was static refrigerated glas
always cold, smelly and wet. So that’s where we first put table that would keep
our attention, and we set about changing these three (30° F). By doing this,
areas to create a more comfortable setting that brought to see a desirable porti
more desirability to fish. which species and exa
Temperature is critical when handling fish, and of each they’d like.
we needed to ensure that the space would be kept The theory was that
well cooled while we processed it. However, for the on the bone in our coo
customer, we didn’t want water on cold concrete floors, being purchased and
or the traditional ice display covered in fillets of fish that This would ensure a lo

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product, as the flesh of the fish wouldn’t be exposed to The service of creatin
oxygen or light. Furthermore, each customer could ask was obviously a very ch
for exactly what they wanted: a butterflied fish ready for also extremely satisfying
the grill, a crumbed fish ready for pan-frying, or even demand for both retail
a boned-out fish, trussed and ready to roast. during the 18 months t
However, the failure of this static glass box was The team at Fish Butche
that people would come for a look and think that and we felt it had the ca
the scarcity of the fish display suggested this was all business to maximise th
we had left. As it went so against the conventions 2021, Julie and I made
of a traditional fish shop’s ice trough full of fillets, Fish in Rose Bay. The m
customers were also confused by what exactly it was to provide a selection o
that we sold. Beyond attracting guests who merely allowed guests young a
wanted to grab a photo for their Instagram or come grilled or rotisserie-cooke
for a giggle at the fish shop with only a dozen portions salads and vegetables th
of fish on display, it was extremely hard to convey the entry to the store.
service we were providing. The first month of tr
It was a challenging opening that required nothing I’d ever experien
a lot of rethinking about how we served
could make things simpler for people wonderf
Without hastily shifting
to understand while emphasising end of
the goalposts on the retail
our celebration of quality instead had coo
display or our level of
of quantity. Communication with tonne o
service to those who did
visitors to our butchery during this Havi
come to buy fish in the early
time was of paramount importance so cooking
months of trade, the team
that they understood what they could failed t
and I went to work on what
do, what we could do for them and Butchery
the space was primarily
what was available. opening
intended for – providing
Without hastily shifting the goalposts and wa
Saint Peter with a higher
on the retail display or our level of had bee
standard of fish that was
service to those who did come to buy coolroom
both more diverse and used
fish in the early months of trade, the in due
a greater percentage of one
team and I went to work on what the cod tha
single fish.
space was primarily intended for – at Charc
providing Saint Peter with a higher coolroom
standard of fish that was both more diverse and the offcuts, offal and su
used a greater percentage of one single fish. Saint Peter hadn’t ev
Naturally, as Saint Peter became busier and internal needed Fish Butchery t
and external expectations grew, we started to see a fish for both venues. Al
number of our restaurant customers and locals begin fourth venue, Julie and
to use Fish Butchery for fish and chips on weekends, or that we were doing at F
to purchase the occasional fillet of fish for their dinner not just ethically and ec
during their work weeks. Christmas, Mother’s Day and as well – we would need
Easter were all significant days of trade that helped Fish space. Within 12 weeks,
Butchery solidify itself into people’s weekly routines. at Waterloo, about a 15
The Covid lockdown of 2020 meant that Fish This was one of the bigg
Butchery needed to support Saint Peter as a business by far. The initial discus
while it was closed to the public. During this time we be part production, par
introduced Mr Niland at Home, which would provide home for our fish butch
meal kits to our local community and those who roughly what has transp
wanted to experience Saint Peter in their own spaces.
At the same time, we reorientated the space at Saint
Peter into one long counter for half the amount of
guests, a decision made to deliver greater focus and
creative opportunity to the restaurant.

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 THE FUTURE

I’ve outlined the genesis of Fish Butchery in detail here along with an ever-cha
for a reason: at some point in time – through success or But if we turn up to
consumer demand – all businesses face a decision about standard just ever so s
whether to grow and expand while maintaining and Perhaps when we s
further advancing their core beliefs and best practices. potential both as a foo
Or, alternatively, deciding to sacrifice quality for quantity applications in the wo
or convenience over craft, resulting in (perhaps) better seem so impossible.
efficiency and greater profit. But at what cost? It is those who inter
Running any kind of fish business, big or small, is the water, in the marke
incredibly challenging and continues to become even on the table – who con
more difficult with the rising cost of labour and goods happen.

HOWTO USE THIS BO

This book is designed to show the reader – and the This book is not a c
industry at large – the vast range of possibilities that to make their own fish
exist when that fish is treated correctly, from those up a quick batch of fis
initial moments of capture and transport through to primarily as a stimulus
being butchered and processed and, finally, making solution to an existing
an appearance on the plate. Split into three sections reach a higher return
that reflect this journey – Catch, Cut and Craft – the I do imagine that m
opportunities for adding value to fish at each stage are be creatively inspired
examined in detail, with step-by-step breakdowns of the of these new methods
various cuts we employ at Fish Butchery and the recipes though, that to cherryp
involved in transforming the building blocks into a singular outcome wi
desirable finished products. than the one we are in
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 CATCH

This section aims to shed some light on how humans h

with fish. It rangesfromexaminingthe role of a ‘fishmon
to distinguishbetweenthisandwhatI suggestwecalla ‘fis
very differenttypesof workfromthe pointof view of a fi
making)while also discussingcriticalissues involvedin
processingof fish once caught, includingdry-ageing,ri
that water can play in the degradationof landedfish sto
removethe onus from the consumeraroundthe quality
beingsoldandplacethisweightsquarelyon the shoulder
I’m very aware that to truly changethe cultureand c
ways of thinkingabout fish will requirea tremendousa
whenlookingthrougha globallens.This sectionattempt
many issues and fracturesthat exist within the seafood
offer somesuggestionsabouthow we can bringpositive
interactwithourwatersin thefuturewithoutcompletelys
It’s a beginning.

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 MONGER VS BUTCHER

I see this book as a scaffold for a curriculum that So when the fish ar
sees fish butchery as a profession. current standard?
But what about the fishmonger? Simply put, Staff employed by t
a fishmonger is someone who deals and trades in to strip the fish of its s
fish. The role of that individual currently extends to whole piece or, more
procurement, logistics, communication with customers scales, head, gills, offal
and suppliers, cutting fish for display or for wholesale in readiness for it to b
clients and creating efficiency and profitability. Efficiencies and con
The role of a modern fishmonger in 2023 needs to water throughout proc
continue to execute the above, however the cutting, of debris, blood and s
fabrication and storage of the whole fish need to be scalers or, worse, a lot
relinquished to a skilled fish butcher who innately remove the scales. Aft
knows the conversions and yields of any single fish. process, water is introd
Like a butcher of land-based animals, there is an maintained and ‘hygie
understood and educated theory that is practised to either have fillets or w
achieve the full outcome for a single animal. If we’re lucky, there’ll
I’m absolutely certain that there is an ethically section where bones,
conscious mindset by the butcher when beginning livers or roe can be pu
to break down an animal, however I feel what’s more There are so many
consciously thought about before picking up a knife I’ll unpack, but the big
is the monetary component of the work. intentional about how
 Can you imagine the gross amounts of lost revenue from one single fish. Th
and food waste there would be if a butcher didn’t know around the growing p
anything more than to simply cut the primary muscles is not to stop consumpt
off a cow or pig and discard the rest? Or if we had no people who rely on fis
desire to eat the legs from a chicken or the tough but rather to see that
sinewy flesh from the tail of a cow? intentionally, one fish
A butcher of land-based animals focuses on a This responsibility lies
much smaller paddock of species, with cattle, goats, customer. And the sol
sheep, pigs and poultry most synonymous with our head, offal and bones
domestic tables around the world. However, there are onto ice hoping to sell
thousands of fish species each with their own unique a centre-cut fillet of sa
anatomical compositions. Rather than thinking we need will still strike fear int
to understand every one, let’s at least attempt to create cooks. More is needed,
some frameworks around more commonly seen fish. comes into the convers

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 THE MONGER

A NOTE FROM TONY WEARNE, FISHMONGER

M y role as a fishmonger has changed tremendously because of climate chan

over the last 10 years. Although it might just be predict what would be
rosy retrospection, it did seem like simpler times back what fish would be avai
then. There always appeared to be a relative abundance Lately, shifting currents
of fish around – there was good fish and there was bad have blurred the lines o
fish, there was cheap fish and there was expensive fish. I can barely guess what
The aim of the game was to get the best fish at the best different times of the ye
price so you could sell it on to your customers and turn Another big change
a profit. of whole fish we sell to
It was when I’d first started in the industry two opposed to fillets. Whet
decades ago that the idea of sustainability and ethics to-tail’ philosophy gaini
really started to become a focus. I think the consumer of social media trends
began to want to be more informed about the food entirely different, is har
they ate (or at least be appeased that what they were I see my role as not so
consuming didn’t have a negative footprint). And at the of seafood, filleting it u
same time there was a big push from the government about sourcing niche p
through legislation, licensing and enforcing commercial relationships with fisher
fishing quotas. This impacted the range of species being customers.
caught or targeted by fishers, as well as which ones were I feel as though the i
desirable to the customer. While some wild catches itself up. There is now v
that utilised certain catch methods became niche, fish around and a strong on
farming gained momentum. Aquaculture that could species and country of
tick all these boxes became popular menu items for have become more tran
restaurants. Now my percentage of farmed fish to wild have far more accountab
fish is almost fifty-fifty, whereas in the past aquaculture the past.
made up only a small percentage of the volume that One thing that hasn’t
we sold. relationships. Good ope
There does seem to be less wild-caught fish around. product for a fair price.
Whether this is due to the absence of fish or the result become even more inte
of quota restrictions and other external factors is business. When there i
something a fisher is best to answer. There has also must rely on those relat
been a noticeable loss of seasonality in seafood, perhaps a consistent supply of q

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 THE BUTCHER

A NOTE FROM DARREN O’ ROURKE, HEAD BUTCHER AT VIC ’S

T here was a time when butchers respected their Butchery for me sta
craft, the animals they plied their trade on and who are its custodians
the land from which they came. It was a time when an with one another. Wit
animal was given a long and cared-for life, harvested be no butchery. For m
and consumed with respect and used in its entirety. The have a fascination and
industrialised food systems and increasingly gluttonous Understanding the lan
consumption of meat has, over the years, led us down how the butcher plays
a path to a new and alarming way of thinking that enough to disregard a
has sadly become the norm. Encouragingly, though, solely on the lifeless c
the tide is turning, even if we’ve largely forgotten the of us. I believe all butc
ideals, techniques and ethics of conscious consumption understand how that
that our grandparents lived their lives by willingly and block, and then the sa
happily, not because they knew no better but, in fact, next step – the cooking
because they knew better. cut apart from a grillin
My path to butchery came via a series of crossroads. is found and how to b
A series of fortunate and life-changing events. A meal of gelatine, whether for
grilled sardines, anchovies and fish stew in the northern texture that beef cheek
Spanish town of Oviedo on a deserted beach that, at gelatine during a long,
25 years of age, made me think of food as something be as good as they can
not just simply to sustain life but as one of its most before or the after. It’s
powerful and inspiring pleasures. Ten years in the As a trade and a cra
kitchen with the last few under chef Alex Herbert set necessity to feed and
some wheels in motion that haven’t stopped moving fed, raised and harvest
since. Long before it was the done thing to know a reverence for the life t
farmer or buy from the bush, Alex was sourcing meat, A carcass was utilised
fish and dairy direct from farmers. It was second nature on the waste pile. Let
to her and, subconsciously, it became second nature to waste. Whether some
me too. But if the kitchen lit a fire in my belly for food, palatable pieces were
acclaimed butcher Victor Churchill and the people the land or whether so
I learned from there fuelled that fire and continued or cured for the leaner
to nurture it for these last 14 years. The chef on a ‘gap no real priority assigne
year’ as a butcher who had only ever broken the odd bone as the entire carc
lamb after service became fascinated with butchery. The food, tools, nourishmen
techniques, the terminology, the muscles – everything a purpose. We’re a spo
consumed me and filled me with more questions than choices everywhere, a
I had answers. bad thing. I do, howev

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steered our ethical attention and mindset away from nothing but damage to
the essence of taking a life. Use it all, use it well and use butchery. No one can, h
it sparingly. That has to be the goal. better than a beef cheek
Aside from being ethically the right thing to do, and to their full potentia
whole-carcass utilisation gives the butcher access to a dirt track just as a ten
every part of the body to be able to fabricate, showcase of beef or a beef shin on
and talk about the many cuts they have in their display. This view that tendernes
Topside tender will rarely be seen in a shop using be erased from people’s
anything but carton meat, and petite tender (teres in fact be dictated by th
major ) and velvet steak are an impossibility unless the the muscle that sits on
butcher is buying cartons of heel muscle and matambre on our plate. Genetics,
(the twitch muscle that moves rapidly under the hide of life, and humane, cal
of cattle to discourage flies, birds and other annoying by immaculate post-deat
animals from landing on their backs). Not to mention ultimately write the rest
all that suet (visceral fat from around the kidneys) that Take short cuts on these
can be transformed into the most magic liquid gold or quality, and no butcher
Christmas pudding. The list goes on and on. no matter how hard the
Aside from the greater flexibility and options the Another vital and we
butcher of whole carcasses has, there is also the ability practice over the past fe
to make the traditionally expensive cuts cheaper. All all – butcher and chefs
those sweet cuts – sirloin, scotch, tenderloin – can be where it belongs, to the
made a little more accessible as the butcher has the without them and their
opportunity to showcase other cuts normally destined merely (and I don’t say
for the grinder in the display. The more carcass balance butchers) a conduit from
the butcher is able to achieve, the more they can spread not for a second suggest
the burden of cost across the carcass. and our skills and know
There is only one other important ingredient in this butchers, the whole syst
scenario, and it’s a deal-breaker and a big part of why suppliers and customers
whole-carcass butchery began its fall from grace: the Supply-chain anarchy!
butcher needs buy-in from their customers. We need should be shone on the
our customers to have the same fascination we have. and process our food. I
They need to trust us and our recommendations. They floor. Without the found
need to know that we are the experts. And then we truly at the very least we have
need to be the experts lest we demolish all the trust our product that not even t
customers have in us. elevate to the high stand
I’m not quite sure where the ridiculous notion It’s pretty simple in my
that tender equals quality came from, but it has done talking and we can help
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 T H E P R O B L E MW I T H W E T

This is a controversial topic that inevitably brings about As this fresh water u
polarised viewpoints. is not at 0° C (30° F) eith
I think we need to start at the very beginning and the cold-chain control
explain that, firstly, a poorly killed fish or one that is shelf life even further. A
neglected immediately post-capture can detrimentally this condition, the wate
affect the quality of the texture, shelf life, internal and turns to ice and ruptures
external aesthetic quality and – above all – flavour. defrost it you will have
Washing your fish in fresh water is a definitive no Beyond the damage
in the business of processing fish, and I’ll explain why. the fish itself, the impac
Water molecules move across semipermeable cell detrimental to the arom
membranes through a process known as osmosis. where the fish is being
They usually do this in order to achieve an equilibrium you walk into a fish sho
where the liquid on both sides of the membrane is a strong ‘fishy’ aroma; t
exactly the same. trimethylamine oxide i
So when a saltwater fish comes into contact with converting into ammoni
fresh water, that fresh water will immediately start to that we refer to as ‘fishy
penetrate the fish’s cells in order to try to make them excess washing, disrupti
less salty. When this happens the cells can become so rupturing of the fish’s c
full of liquid that they rupture, causing the fish flesh Remove the washing
to turn an opaque white colour. This not only degrades only will you have a fish
the texture of the fish but also its shelf life, as it creates and is easier to cook wi
an exposed and moist environment for bacteria to supermarket that has n
accumulate and thrive.
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 W H AT IS R I G O R M O R T

In fish, energy is stored in the form of adenosine While respiration w

triphosphate (ATP), which is produced using oxygen electrical nerve messag
during the process of aerobic respiration. When cord signalling for mu
required, ATP is then able to bind to muscles before As the muscles continu
breaking down into adenosine diphosphate (ADP) and amount of ADP is not
phosphate, in the process releasing energy that is then the fish starts to stiffen
used to power muscle contractions. mortis. The process of
The remaining ADP molecule that is still bound typically 16 to 24 hour
to muscles is then replaced with a new ATP molecule, In a fish post-mortem
which causes the muscle to relax. The process then to occur without the s
repeats itself as muscle contraction continues. respiration. The dead
When fish die, obviously respiration no longer through the same proc
continues, which means that there is no longer oxygen order to meet the ATP
available to produce new ATP. This means that there the same build-up of
is no longer a constant supply of ATP available to sourness in taste and
replace ADP, which results in the muscles of the fish the acid cooking the fl
being unable to relax.

D R Y - A G E DF I S H

The first time the penny dropped for me about the Flavours and texture
possibilities of fish-ageing was when I started working correct preparation an
at Fish Face in Darlinghurst some 17 years ago. It was also intended to arm
there that I remember being scolded one night for the ability to maintain
having forgotten to cover my portions of fish in the fish for an extended p
service fridge. Because they had sat under the fan all we purchased in a reas
night, the skin had dried out. Despite being told that result of this intentiona
this would result in an inferior product because the fish performed signific
fish had not been stored correctly, I cooked them and commenting on how
noticed that they were so much simpler to work with. occasions, making com
The skin was far crunchier when pan-fried, the wetness beautiful and fresh’ ab
of the exterior flesh had been partially dried and Since introducing
everything just seemed, well, easier. first book, The Whole
 It felt like I was cheating. on it again as I feel it
Years later I applied the same thinking to a whole fish When dry-ageing fish
and, rather than letting it lay on a tray, I hooked it from be considered:
the tail, hung it and left it to age in a coolroom. 1 I haven’t
looked back since – when applied correctly, ageing a fish 1. It is critical that the
like this adds a profound amount of flavour, enhances been caught, killed
the texture and composition of the flesh and results in 35), otherwise you a
a superior outcome when pan-frying or grilling. amount of ageing w

1. Hanging a larger fish from a hook like this and storing smaller fish on perforated trays/ racks were both solutions to the issues arou
that I was trying to resolve was that when a fish lays on a tray for a day or even a number of hours, it will have moisture underneath
To combat this, the fish can be turned each day to move the wet side up to dry and dry side down for moisture and so on. However
it can result in bacterial proliferation. So rather than purchasing fewer fish more frequently to avoid potential spoilage, the idea w
process post-mortem.

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2. A fish that’s washed during processing (see page 28) Everyone’s optimum
will likewise never reach its full potential (not only in differ based on their ow
taste but also in flavour, aroma and texture). quality of the fish, howe
between 75 and 80 per
3. Dry-ageing a fish takes place without the use of any salt
this will be subject to a
or preservatives.
species, amount of fat,
4. Dry-ageing is the process of intentional and controlled quality of refrigeration
moisture loss to promote more of the fish’s natural fats. Depending on the fish
Furthermore, maturing a fish on the bone will allow the ageing method we use
development of glutamates within the fish, giving you loss of somewhere betw
a more savoury flavour profile and also a flavour that per day. Financially, thi
is identifiable from species to species. the maturation of beef
improvements in flavou
5. Dry-ageing is a necessity for the fish industry to
or grill results.
mitigate the gross amounts of fish waste produced
Lastly, it’s worth cons
every year.
is delicious, does this m
It must also be said that a static (or almost static) this matter? The argume
coolroom is critical to achieve an optimal outcome. 2 eat the fish fresh?’, and
The use of a fan-cooled coolroom will rapidly speed certain moments where
up the moisture loss of the fish without it developing better. This may mean,
any depth of flavour. There are now a multitude of consume the best sardin
commercial refrigeration options for storing fish and within the first 5 or 6 h
meat protein, and often you will find salt bricks in the water. Or that a turbot
base of refrigeration systems designed for ageing meat. first 48 hours out of the
Naturally, the salt bricks will draw moisture from the new-found flavour and
fish, so I understand their purpose, however from the a reduced amount of m
numerous tests we have conducted, the results are as The idea is to manage a
severe as placing the fish in a conventional fan-based catching, processing an
coolroom. The simplest solution to this is to just take potential of its shelf life
the salt bricks out.
It is the role of the fish butcher or chef to identify
A NOTE ON SCOMBR
at what point the right amount of moisture has been
( H I S TA M I N E ) FOOD
removed from the fish. Some (most) would argue, ‘How
ridiculous, no one wants to eat a dry fish.’ I couldn’t Scombroid, or histamine
agree more with that, however we are not talking about when an individual cons
weeks and months of ‘drying’ to result in an emaciated containing high levels o
fish jerky. This is controlled moisture loss with the enzyme activity that has
intention to stop when the fish has reached the desired The fish types affected a
dryness. I know personally that I don’t want to age a family, including tuna, m
whiting past day four as it’s just not the same memory- (yellowtail), but also non
burning experience as it was when it was freshly landed. mahi-mahi, marlin and
It is also important to note that certain undesirable destroyed by cooking, s
qualities in a fish will become prominent even if preventative measures t
the dry-ageing method is followed in the handling. risk of this enzyme activ
A fish with a seaweed-rich diet that is matured too being chilled soon after
long, for example, can not only end up dry as it lacks refrigerated until it is co
considerable intramuscular fat but also deliver a flavour When handling these fi
profile with an iodine metallic taste. refrigeration is therefore

2. Recently, Fish Butchery has moved into a far bigger commercial coolroom to store the majority of its fish, and while the room is pre
fan functioning at 10 per cent capacity allows the room to maintain its cold temperature when being opened and closed. Without th
aggressively, and it would take far too long for it to cool down again after opening. This was a necessary function and a system we n
operation into something more commercially viable. We have a number of coolrooms now across our businesses – the smaller two-d
number of products and perform very well because they are not trafficked as frequently as our bigger spaces. The rooms all have rai
perforated gastronomes or racking for smaller fish.

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OceanofPDF.com
 A FISH’S JOURNEY
FROM SEA TO STORE

W hile it might seem somewhat contrary to finish 3. Place the fish in an

this section with the very beginning of a fish’s acid as well as reduc
journey to our plates, nothing is more important in It’s then critical that
determining product quality within the fish industry from catch to marke
than an understanding of the ‘best practice’ processes (30° F). This can be d
involved in landing the fish in the first place and getting surrounding the bot
them to their final destination. For all the preceding Alternatively, if shav
this separate from th
conversation around fish butchery, handling, dry-
an impermeable she
ageing and preparation, unless this first step in the
chain is adhered to, an inferior result will be all At this point, the in
but guaranteed. the fish that have been
For line-caught fish, the process for a fisher is to bait established what they
up, throw a line in and wait until the fish jumps on to What’s the game plan?
the hook. When the fish can’t circulate the amount of fish only for its fillets a
oxygen it needs to resist, it gives up the fight. While lies. Upon arriving at
trying to escape, the fish has developed a significant needs to be removed f
amount of lactic acid in its muscles. At this point it is environment to ensure
gold standard for a fisher to: the purchaser needs to
1. Spike the fish in the head to inflict an immediate 4. Scale the fish, (see p
death. Allowing a fish to thrash around and die slowly suited to the fish siz
in a bucket of water or open container is unacceptable for very small fish, a
 –
to itthe
causes
fish, areduces
tremendous amount
the eating of unnecessary
quality and shortensstress
the sized fish or a variety
fish. Larger fish can
shelf life of the flesh. Spiking of the brain (originally While most of the ti
a Japanese technique called ikijime or ikejime , small percentage of
pronounced ‘iki-jimi’) will kill fish immediately; number of different
it should be done quickly – preferably within a minute outcome. Once the
of it being caught. wiped with paper to
2. remain. The temptati
Clip the gills to bleed the fish. If the fish is not bled
surrounding surface
correctly then the blood that resides within the fish
process up, but resis
will return to the flesh. This causes a number of issues:
(see pages 28).
it dramatically shortens the shelf life of the fish, it
visually alters the colour of the flesh and the flavour of
the fish is compromised where it starts to carry a heavy
metallic taint.

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5. Remove the organs from the fish. ‘Gutting’ conjures on toast. The other pa
images of waste, blood and mess to clean up, but a regarded as offal is th
correctly gutted fish should be a simple, quick and of the puzzle that con
clean process. The art lies in the selection of sharp tools, and brain and require
including scissors and a straight-edge (non-flex) knife. head can remain on t
A fish can be gutted in a number of different ways (as preparation (see, for e
demonstrated on page 49), but be mindful that if your is split so the fish can
knife is inserted too deeply into the cavity of a fish then then steamed or simp
you will puncture the organs within, which makes it pick the meat from it
more challenging to use them in other preparations and niche concept (yet fas
creates a lot of mess to clean up afterwards. Once the vitreous humour in th
organs and gills are removed, discard the gills and gall
6. Consider your timefr
bladder as these (at least to me) have very little culinary
application. At this stage, wipe the cavity of the fish it is known that the fi
completely clear of any blood or residue using a cloth or used in the next fe
or paper towel, but DON’T WASH THE FISH. left on the bone. Rem
Just as the exterior quality points of a fish are exposes the flesh to li
considered, the interior elements must also be – if the its taste and texture. L
offal inside the fish is compromised in any way then develop its natural glu
unfortunately this will make up a part of the waste or taste more savoury an
need to be considered in other ways. The challenge This then feeds into t
now is sorting through the usable organs of the fish and and intentional moistu
actioning immediate conversions to them; this might flavours and textures.
mean salting the heart, spleen, intestines, stomach and 7. See pages 79–149 for
kidneys in readiness for applications the following week
or removing the liver and trimming it in readiness to
make pâté or simply pan-frying for salads or to serve
3. This is not a conversation about putting a fish into a coolroom for a month and it somehow becoming significantly better; this is the
correctly from step 1 to step 7 then you will be working with a far superior product that you have yielded more from and have more
two and three, and I would suggest using your instincts to make this judgement. However, throwing a perfectly good fish in the bin
unassuming consumer who will have a poor experience is just sending the whole industry backwards, along with adding to the amou

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 T H E FI S H E R

A NOTE FROM LUKE BUCHHOLZ, COMMERCIAL FI

C ommercial fishing for us was not something passed enough ice on our fish
down over generations, so when my brother and boxes were full, which
I decided to start we didn’t have any bad habits. We somewhere and our ic
came with a fresh set of eyes and, because we weren’t took the transport sid
the best fishers, we needed to get maximum return from We do our best to get
what we caught. end consumer as quick
We didn’t realise it at the time but our practices 24 and 48 hours, but s
of bleeding and ikijime spike killing were things our local chefs).
I had learned 15 years earlier when I was a keen Instagram was our
spearfisherman. We would kill our fish as soon as really took things to t
possible so that the sharks wouldn’t come in, and we’d Having direct contact
bleed them straight away by gill clipping, because that’s out of the equation wh
what the guy I had learned under was doing. tripled – our returns.
We also noticed that the fish tasted significantly at the markets were al
better when they were killed with a kill shot instantly. irrespective of the qua
The fish didn’t have time to stress or build up lactic acid overnight. We noticed
from fighting on the line. season, like bonito, fo
I found it strange that this wasn’t normal practice floor would drop from
with commercial fishers – it was all about the ‘kilos’, a kilo over the space o
so to speak. We also noticed that fish in the shopfronts remainder of the seaso
didn’t look like our fish. They were knocked around, By having direct co
with scales missing or white sunken eyes. We had to set a year-round fla
started out as lobster fishers – trapping fish in for both us and our ch
between pulling lobster traps – and sold all our before ordering. The s
fish through the local co-op, which we found very everything in-house d
frustrating as the majority of our fish were sent to like this (prices listed
markets. If multiple other fishers weighed in the same
species of fish we would all get paid the same amount, ice machines (we ha
irrespective of the difference in quality of our fish at
coolroom – $12,000
the other end.
So we decided to go out on our own and do things delivery truck – $ 35,0
our way. processing/packing faci
We started shopping fish around the country using
road transport, which was another issue for us. There other equipment (sc
was nothing worse than our fish getting lost or put running costs (for t
on the wrong truck or being told that we didn’t have $750 per quarter

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 maintenance and servicing on the delivery truck – delivery truck is cleaned
$200 per month It doesn’t stop there, tho
chase up accounts and
fish receiver’s licence – $4000 per year
that can affect a small b
food-safe licence – $2000 per year There are other issue
too, including the day
insurance on equipment and delivery vehicle – $2000
is delivered (most chefs
per year.
Wednesday for prep), t
Like in any business, there are always upfront and to deliver from the mid
one-off costs, but that is still money that needs to be Gold Coast or Sydney,
accounted for and recovered at some stage. of orders to be financiall
There are other factors that can affect your catch rate. over the weekend as we
The extra time it takes to carry out the kill methods difficult to move fish at
mentioned above as opposed to just throwing fish sending fish that has be
directly into an ice slurry can reduce your catch rate days to the markets.
by up to 50 per cent. Take bonito fishing, for instance. We plan to do the m
If two boats were fishing side by side using the same Monday to Thursday ea
fishing techniques, lures and bait, then our catch using factor in weather, tides,
these kill methods would be 25 to 50 per cent less at the influences like recreation
end of the day and we would have to stay back an extra like cyclones or floods
hour or two to fill the same number of orders as the times this year alone, w
other boat. for at least two weeks).
There is also the extra workload that comes with don’t want to play ball,
what we do. About 90 per cent of commercial fishers To summarise the w
drop their catch off at a local co-op or wholesaler and involved in doing thing
get paid the following week. After catching our fish, per cent more than the
we have to start the process of contacting our chefs your fish off at the local
and letting them know what we have. As not every next week, but financiall
chef orders every time we have fish (they may have per cent better off than
a function on, they may have already ordered their fish, about numbers, though
or they simply don’t want the fish that we have), you what we do and how w
need an extensive range of clients to be able to move the enjoyment that che
volumes of fish, and building our customer base has fish. I want this business
taken time and patience. Once all the orders are in we their kids, so I feel we
head out to our packing shed to prepare the orders and for them by doing the
load up our delivery truck. That’s followed by invoices fish that we pull from t
and a delivery plan for our driver (who can sometimes knowledge so they can
be my brother, my wife or me) to use the following day. methods and reduce th
A run can take up to 15 hours to complete, then the and wildlife.
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 CUT

Whether it’s the head, tail or offal contained within, a

more culinarypossibilitythan simply that central fillet
opportunitywithina singlefish to realisenot only a mor
outcome but one that is intentionallyseeking the gre
minimisingwhatgoesin the bin
Thissectionoutlinesthe constituentpartsof a fish, the
one efficiently,the stepsinvolvedin preparinga fish for b
thecutsintowhichtheycanbe transformed,withtheaim
treatingthe whole animal with respect.Simply put, our
a fish shouldbe the same as how a butcherwouldbreak
thinkit’s okayto throwhalf a fish in the bin?
Intelligenceand intentionalitywill be whatsavesour g

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 TOOLSOF THE TRAD

KNIVES MINCER

The choice of knives is so much subject to the individual A hugely important pie
and their preferences. I, for example, only like to work commercial fish busines
with knives that have no flexibility in them at all, but will allow you to conver
this is a personal choice. Below are some of my favourite parts of the fish into be
knives and the reason I use them. patties and more. Half
land-based animals wou
Chef ’s Knife (230 MM BLADE) Excellent for all-purpose so why not fish?
cutting of vegetables, portioning fish and cutting the
scales off a fish.
M E AT SLICER
Long Sabatier Knife (230 MM BLADE) This knife is my
A good meat slicer is an
perfect filleting tool for larger fish species as it allows
pays for itself very quick
me to efficiently make my fillet in three or four cuts due
slicing our mortadella,
mainly to its length and durable hard steel. I also use
this knife to portion fillets.
HOOKS
Short Knife (130 MM BLADE) Having this knife to hand is
S-shaped butcher’s hook
important for fish like herring, mackerel, sardines and
equipment at Fish Butch
even smaller plate-size fish. Smaller knives offer a lot of
to hang our fish. This p
control and speed during filleting but are also a great
coming into contact wi
tool for gutting and knife-scaling a fish.
moisture that develops
preventing the developm
Cleaver (170 MM BLADE) Just as a meat butcher’s knife
keeping the flesh from
belt includes a cleaver, I feel a fish butcher needs one
the opportunity to begin
within arm’s reach for assistance when splitting heads in
assistance of the static
half and getting through large vertebrae. Sharp, not too
in. Hooks also come in
large and with a short handle.
roast a whole fish or bo
a tray, the bottom fillet
SCISSORS overcooked while the t
(SILKY OR CHIKAMASA, 100 MM BLADE) securely while roasting
If there is one item in our artillery that I am still on the way around to achieve
hunt for it would be a great pair of scissors. Although
we have over 50 pairs at Fish Butchery, we still haven’t FISH WEIGHT
found the ones we love. Many have come close, but
To me, you can’t grill or
when working in large volumes you need reliable, sharp,
the assistance of a fish w
comfortable and lightweight scissors that cut through Peter fish weight, a fish
large and small bones with ease. Scissors greatly
filled with water, anothe
speed up our efficiency when filleting and doing more
the weight is essential f
intricate butterflying and detailed cuts of fish. Invest in
of the pan and creating
a good pair!
you the best chance of
evenly blistered skin wh
PLIERS AND TWEEZERS As heat rises around th
Every bit as important as scissors, pliers and tweezers cooking, a specifically s
play a critical role in fish processing in order to remove also capture the heat an
large and small bones with ease. Using tweezers for a across the flesh side of
job that needs pliers can often double the amount of time is reduced and the
4
time needed to complete a task. remains.

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SCALES ROBOT COUPE

Having a reliable, accurate set of kitchen scales is critical We use a Robot Coupe
when portioning fish. Even a 10 to 20 g (¼ to ¾ oz) we need within our m
variance between portions can not only frustrate paying (see pages 158 and 185
customers if they feel they are short-changed, but can
also swing the other way and start to affect the financial C O M B I NAT I O N
sustainability of your business if portions are overcut. AND CONVECTIO
On top of that, it’s essential to have a large set of scales
that can determine the weight of the whole fish being A combination steam
received so you can work out yields and costs before the a Rational Combi) giv
knife even goes in. temperature and humi
roast at low temperatur
follow the suggested t
D I G I TA L PROBE THERMOMETER
internal temperature
A critical piece of equipment that you must have in the
kitchen when working with both raw and cooked fish. SMOKERS
This is to ensure not only safe practices and manage
the cold chain controls of a fish, but also to achieve We use two types of sm
desirable textures and stable temperatures of fish the Bradley brand 6 ra
protein during cooking. of cold and hot smokin
site we needed to get
a 4 litre Smokai brand
T R E S PA D E S AU S AG E FILLER
retrofitted to a standup
We use this hand-cranked piece of kit to fill all the doing this we gave our
sausages we produce at Fish Butchery. To us this is an under fully refrigerated
essential piece of equipment that really brings efficiency
to our sausage and wider charcuterie program. C RYO VAC M AC H

Essential for the storag

OX RU N N E R S ( BEEF CASINGS)
products. Once sealed
While it would be wonderful if we could use fish of contamination, alon
intestines to house our sausages and salamis (and trust moisture loss if the de
me, I’ve tried) beef casings are significantly thicker and reached.
far more shelf stable, making them an excellent choice.
V I TA- P R E P J U G B L
PAC O J E T
We use a number of d
This piece of equipment helps us to produce refined, and grinders throughou
brightly coloured herb oils and ultra-smooth rendered we are looking to achi
fats, as well as to bring our fish eye ice cream (see page we turn to a jug blende
253) to reality. produces the smooth
such as our liver pâté

4. One of the biggest challenges cooks face both domestically and professionally is the execution of a pan-fried or grilled piece of fish
with on direct high-heat methods of cookery like grilling and pan-frying, finishing the cooking process is tricky regardless of whe
during cooking then although the skin might be crisp or well-coloured, how do you finish the cooking? Many believe that in the
an excellent solution, however what happens more often than not is butter will be added to the pan, the portion turned flesh-side
to reinforce the colouring and to add flavour. Each to their own, but for a memorable experience, keep the flesh of the fish protecte
extraordinary texture of the gently set flesh.

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SCALING, KNIFE-SCALING

AND GUTTING
Cutting the scales off a fish allows us to condition Too often when a fish
the skin more intentionally as it no longer harbours blade is inserted and
any unnecessary moisture. A sharp knife passing over for a lack of intentiona
the surface of a fish does little to no damage to the any potential that exc
condition of the flesh. The knife-scaling technique care not to puncture
depicted visually here is a traditional method from the recipes that follow
Japan that aims to minimise bruising and textural can be achieved.
differences across the flesh of a fish that is intended
to be used for sushi and sashimi.

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 SCALING

Flat fish such as flounder and small fish such as whiting, garfish, herr
can be scaled with a small knife, small-headedfish scale
1. Gently run the scaler from the tail to the
head, working methodically around the
body of the fish and applying only enough
pressure to remove the scales.

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2. Continue until you are confident all the
scales are removed, then wipe the fish with
paper towel.

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 SUKIBIKI (KNIFE-SCAL

For large fish (plate-size or bigger), scales can be cut off if your kni
1. Firstly, using a pair of kitchen scissors, cut
all the fins off the fish that will impede your
ability to cut the scales off easily.

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2. With a sharp knife that can be either short or long, The aim is to remov
depending on your comfort, start at the tail end of the fish carries them, along wi
and hold your knife almost directly parallel to the bench leaving the skin of the
while pressing against the scales/skin of the fish. Angle do this you may punct
your knife very slightly to allow the blade to slip between flesh. Don’t panic, sim
the scales and the skin, then, using a back-and-forth
motion, begin to cut away the scales in long strips.

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 GUTTING

This is the traditionalmethod of gutting, which to me is the cleanest and

of the cuts that follow there will be other methods of gutting that start
enable other unique cuts to be achieved.
1. To gut the fish, make an incision at the fish’s
anal vent. Using only the very tip of a sharp
knife, cut up through to the gills under the
bottom jaw of the fish.

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2. Once the cavity is opened, use scissors
to cut the membrane that sits in front
and behind the gills and collar.

3. The gills can now be pulled down

towards the tail, and the internal organs
of the fish can be removed in one piece
with little mess.

4. Wipe the cavity and skin of the fish very

clean with paper towel. Reserve the offal.
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OFFAL UTILISATION
Before you start thinking about offal utilisation, they will be. And reme
understanding where your fish is from, who caught handling the whole fis
it and how long it’s been out of the water is critical. the book extends to th
This information will give you confidence in the about as useful as a we
knowledge that your fish was meticulously handled and free from water, t
in unpolluted waters and that using the offal for be far better.
cooking is a good idea. While many modern
Just as with the quality points of the external based animals in high
condition of a fish, we must look within for the same willing to celebrate th
details. It is so important to ensure that only the very a fish or even be aware
best and freshest offal is used from a fish. It is one thing The following pages sh
to minimise our waste when processing a fish, but serve within each fish along
someone an inferior piece of fish offal as their first quality points, extracti
experience and you can only imagine how disappointed

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 HEAD AND COLLAR

In my opinion, leaving the head and collars (the cut along the fish clav
smaller fish and then proceedingto either butterfly or split them in half
of the nicest ways to serve a fish, as it offers the diner a multitude of tast
sense of reverence towards the fish that’s being eaten. However, not eve
the eye of what they are eating, and the flesh that can be found within th
put to great use elsewhere.

Quality Points view, the head is qui

fish as it can tolerate
Firstly, ensure the head you are working with is of
out as badly as the fi
known origin. Like land-based animal offal, it is
connective tissues, c
incredibly important that the product is extremely
Because of this adde
fresh and has been well looked after up until this
collars, although pe
point.
alone, can also be a
The eyes are always a telltale sign of how fresh the fish umami-rich marinad
is. Sunken, foggy, dry or even sticky eyes on a ‘fresh’ flavour. Cooking ov
fish should be avoided entirely. these cuts. As the po
The flesh on and around the collars should carry little the fat begins to drip
to no aroma. the hot coals. The sm
up towards the head
The flesh on the head and collars of a fish should be
vibrant, glassy and firm to the touch without signs of For a more processed
deterioration or discolouration. of a fish, remove the
and set aside. Once
been collected, simp
Extraction
that surrounds the c
Removing the head as a single unit can be simply come away with the
done with a sharp heavy kitchen knife or cleaver, heads are warm but
where the initial cut is made between the vertebrae of total cooking tim
on the spine. Finding this gap in the bones allows picking crabmeat, th
you to cut through with ease. as large as possible
scale, bone or cartila
The collars can be taken off separate to the head by
pick through again.
making a diagonal cut from the top of the shoulder
this task will result
of the fillet down to the belly of the fish just behind
fish meat. The sky’s
the first fin (see step-by-step breakdown on page
head meat containing
 82). Once the collars are removed, further work can fish. It is fantastic fo
be carried out to remove the smaller, more intricate
the Fishcakes on pag
bones to allow the diner complete enjoyment of
pasta, on toast or in
boneless flesh with only one large structural bone
onions, chives and C
to hold onto as they eat.
The brain within the
Application organ that I’ve never
for on its own beyon
Some of the simplest ways to work with the head frying it (which, to
and collars, as I mentioned, are to leave them intact brain content can be
but present the fish either butterflied or split in half, the meat off the hea
ready to be grilled over coals, pan-fried or steamed, a fish head terrine (
depending on the species. From a culinary point of and richness.

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 A NOTE ON HEAD M E AT

A number of recipes throughout this book require the Once the heads are c
use of cooked and picked head meat taken from the extracting the meat. Th
head and collars of the fish. In these recipes we have you familiarise yourself
started with a whole 3 kg (6 lb 10 oz) fish and on day I like to begin with the
one cut the head and collars off, weighing about 725 g the way first. Gently pe
(1 lb 9 oz). Place these on a perforated steamer tray or a pull away any bones yo
steamer basket, depending on the amount you need and one of the two bowls. T
equipment you have, and steam in a Rational Combi lightly feel for where th
oven preheated to 70° C (158° F). The time in the oven should now be boneless
will depend on the species as well as the size of the the second bowl, which
heads and collars: we start at 12–15 minutes for smaller To pick the heads, begin
heads from 2–3 kg (4 lb 6 oz– 6 lb 10 oz) fish and go up skin, particularly from
to around 30–40 minutes for large heads from 10–15 jowls, and place into yo
kg (22–33 lb) fish. Cook in batches, as you want to be exposed, use your finge
picking the meat while still warm. the head and place into
To check if the heads are cooked, test the cheek meat, and forehead have been
which sits just above where the spine begins – the meat begin extracting any m
here should be opaque and flake away from the bone until you have picked a
easily. Once this is the case, remove the heads from the of the other bowl.
steamer and allow to cool for a moment. Assemble two As a final check, colle
large bowls to pick into. pick over the meat into
small bones, scales, tain
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OceanofPDF.com
 LIVER

The first time I ever knowingly saw a fish liver was when I cut into a 2 k
pluckedout a liver that was 210 g (7½ oz). That was over 10 per cent of the
fillet of fish on a restaurantmenu or a portion you buy to take home can
(5½ and 6½ oz), so when the liver and other organs surpass this, the c
hugely damagingto fish businessesboth financiallyand ethically.

Quality Points Application

When inspecting the liver, there should be no visible The easiest way to coo
signs of damage or discolouration. If the gall bladder fry it in a hot cast-iron
of the fish has been punctured and stained the liver neutral cooking oil an
with a fluorescent yellow-green liquid, this can be pepper. By leaving th
simply trimmed off as it only affects the surface of the taste the quality of th
liver. smooth texture. This
perfect addition to sa
The presence of worms and parasites can be the
– enjoyed on toast wi
major cause of an inability to work with fish liver.
Unfortunately, if a liver is contaminated in this way Too high a heat when
then there is no use for it at all. result in scorching th
aftertaste, while cooki
Livers that have sat in the cavity of a fish too long
dull its flavour and re
post-mortem can be subject to deterioration caused
powdery pulp.
by the acidity of the stomach and intestinal contents.
A liver like this can perhaps present well on the Liver terrines, pâtés a
surface but when touched will almost deflate or turn delicious products th
pasty or creamy. livers (see examples o
ever find yourself seek
A perfect liver will be firm to the touch, bright and
application, look for
uniformly coloured and have very little odour at all.
liver as they are comp
Late winter and early spring in Australia is when we
richness.
begin to see the best livers appearing.

Extraction

A liver is most easily removed from the cavity of a fish

by gutting it conventionally in one piece with little mess
(see page 49). Once removed, set the fish aside and
position the organs on the cutting board as they were
in the fish. Just beneath the gills will be the small fish
heart, followed by the liver. Using sharp scissors or a
small knife, cut the two main arteries off the top of the
liver as well as the one underneath that connects it to
the stomach of the fish. Once removed, inspect the liver
and trim any significant arteries or veins that are visible.

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 H E A RT, SPLEEN AND K I

I have put these three organs into the one basket due to their richness
them possesses a very oxygenated flavour profile that reminds you of
to be harnessed rather than feared. These dark, blood-rich organs must
flavour can be sweet and their texture firm, however poor handling or
result in a metallic taste, a sour flavour and a slimy texture.

Quality Points Application

Look for unpunctured, brightly coloured organs that While there are a mult
carry little to no aroma and a thin covering of fat, and used, I tend to prefer
are slightly dry to the touch. of different end results

Blood will be the first thing to taint in these organs – The first is salting, w
the first visible signs of this will usually be browning time and also the ab
and discolouration. profile of these organ
this method is that
Extraction organs can be accum
won’t spoil). To salt
The heart, spleen and kidneys can best be removed from
regular fine cooking
the cavity of a fish by gutting it conventionally in one
until hardened and
piece with little mess (see page 49). Once removed, set
them out completely
the fish aside and position the organs on the cutting
then store them in a
board as they were in the fish. Just beneath the gills will
product can then be
be the small fish heart. This can be carefully snipped
to make condiments,
from the throat of the fish and set aside. Next is the
as a seasoning for fr
spleen, which will either be found entangled in the
a surprisingly umam
fish fat that coats the surrounding organs or sitting in
behind the intestines. It is very dark in colour and may The other application
only be as big as a thumbnail, depending on species. the fish and cook th
The kidneys are to be found where you see a dense mass coals. This is an indi
of congealed blood nearly fixed to the spine of the fish that will perfume th
midway down the bone. They can be removed with fish them gently, prevent
pliers. and becoming dry a
run if pan-frying th
and spleens specifica
pink when cooking,
remember when sea
 go exceedingly well

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 ROE OR MILT

From caviar to bottarga and taramasalata,the roe sacs – or fully ripe egg
starting point for some of the most sought-afterproducts in Western co
or just plain delicious, this organ seems to have done okay in terms of be
problem here arises when the fish itself starts to be discardedin favour of
Conversely, milt – or the sperm-filled reproductive gland of a male
the most challenging ingredients to cook and consume. While the Japan
having extremely good anti-ageing properties and tuna milt is very pop
it hasn’t quite reached the same level of enthusiasticuptake here in Austr

Quality Points Application

When processing roe, look for a sac that is For fish upwards of
uniformly and brightly coloured. In addition, the sac favourite preparation
needs to be firm, unpunctured and without odour or to cut the membrane
excessive slime. within, then salt the
of caviar (see page 22
For milt, quality points can be identified by its
product is ready it c
uniform bone-white appearance, little to no odour
an airtight container
and even texture.
sterilised and sealed
Similarly to the liver, the roe and the milt can suffer I love adding this to
the stain of a punctured gall bladder. Again, if this addition to an oyster
can be trimmed away then there should be no issue
Alternatively, I like
unless the intention is to cure the roe whole.
fish roe (see page 228
not technically a bot
Extraction
chewiness and is exc
The roe or milt can best be removed from the cavity served with some go
of a fish by gutting the fish conventionally in one For milt, I find that
piece with little mess (see page 49). Once removed, meat offal such as b
set the fish aside and position the organs on the any initial hesitancy
cutting board as they were in the fish. The roe or and the culinary opp
milt will sit together as a pair in behind the intestine apparent. Curing, sm
and stomach. By snipping the connecting sinews, page 233) results in
the roe or milt should come away quite simply from sliced and pan-fried
the remaining organs. Be careful not to puncture the smallgoods such as
membrane and gently remove in one piece.
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OceanofPDF.com
 STOMACH AND INTEST

Stomachs and intestines might just be the most challenging compone

excited about eating, and I’ll gladly put my hand up and say it took me so
solution!Whenpreparedcorrectly,the stomachis void of any real flavour
or pigs’ trotters, it can be used in dishes for its remarkable texture and
while the tender intestinecan be used in a varietyof differentways. The q
incredibly important,but I can’t stress enough that these particularorga
and unspoiledin any way and are put to work inside of the first 24 hour

Quality Points Application

The stomach and intestine must be extremely fresh, Given a fish only h
clean-smelling, undamaged and evenly coloured intestine, this appli
with no blemishes. of an accumulated
processed, remove
Fish stomachs and intestines obviously carry the
according to the ex
same functions as in a land-based animal: they
them in fine table
hold the consumed food and waste of the fish. It is
covers and fills the
important that the contents of the stomach are not in
moisture but remov
any way omitting foul odours or causing damage to
bitterness that they
the organ itself; it would need to be discarded if so.
depending on size
to rotate new stom
Extraction with older ones co
The stomach and intestine of a fish can best be Once cured, the sa
removed from the cavity of a fish by gutting the fish sealed and frozen
conventionally in one piece with little mess (see page away, the stomachs
49). Once removed, set the fish aside and position the soaked in cold wat
organs on the cutting board as they were in the fish. 24 hours, depending
The stomach looks like a small mitten sitting at the that has sat in salt
base of the gills, and the intestine can be fairly easily process of reducing
identified. Using sharp scissors or a small knife, cut water will take long
the gills off the main body of organs, then snip all the
other organs away from the stomach. Set aside the To cook the stomac
stomach and sort the intestines. This is best done by steam them until t
wiping away any mucus or excess fat from around the oven or on the stov
organ with kitchen paper. just like a beef tend
Being careful not to tear the intestine, squeeze out them to a fish pie,
the contents and discard. Do the same to the stomach dishes, or simply f
by inverting the organ and scraping it clear with a The sky is the limit
spoon. Once the contents are removed, proceed to the best advice is t
wash the stomach and intestines under cold water and big flavours. Stoma
then place on a clean stainless steel tray. rounds, sautéed an
until tender.

The above methods

as does crumbing a
assembling the inte
building the sauce
them very finely an
Again, the creative
critical here is retai
and not serving it t

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 TA I L S

I’ve included tails with offal here as, in much the same way, they are too
more desirableparts of the fillet. The problem is, they’re very rarely used t
in restaurantsoften left to sit idle until no amount of lemon juice can sav
serving up (or served) the end when everyone else gets handed the centr
This is a terrible waste of what is a potentially magical part of the fish
with so much criticalinformation.One of my best uses for the tail early on
and cook it, then examine the texture to check for parasitesthat can rend
(kudoa thyrisites) or tough as a board (tough fish syndrome) and get an
fish would taste like. The cooked tail can also give an insight into how th
transported to us and if the cold-chain handling was managed appropri
implementingmy dry-ageingprogrambefore and after openingSaint Pete
cut, cooked, ate and made decisions based on the textures and tastes of a
differed to our day 4 experience,and cooking the tail in this way would e

Quality Points Application

The quality points for the tail of a fish are consistent As well as being a vita
with the quality points of the whole fish. You are above, boneless tail fle
looking for a nice coating of slime on the scale, a and removed can be c
well-formed structure of scales that is unmarked or fishcakes, fish fingers
undamaged, no odour and glassy, firm flesh that is whites to produce a b
not discoloured in any way. into a dumpling filling
though? And will a ch
Extraction cut fillet of fish on the
The tail can be simply cut off the fish at the height at be willing to introduce
which you do not wish to serve and sell your primary hope that the fish shop
fillet. In some cases, such as our Cold-smoked Tuna lifting and see to it tha
Tail Ham on the Bone on page 182, we cut the tail and even fish and chip
quite high as the sinews on a tuna run higher than the fish.
on most conventional round fish.
5. If a tail started dispelling water into the pan during cooking, for instance, we knew that the fish was more than likely killed and not
was already ‘cooked’ from not just the heat but the retained lactic acid residing within the flesh.

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OceanofPDF.com
 F AT

Fat is an incredible part of a fish to work with when well-harnessed. As t

visceral fat within the cavity of a fish, this component is not going to be huge
But it is seen in both wild and farmed fish, so for that reason I felt it import
Fat is not just limited to what resides within the cavity, however, and a
fish will also carry a nice healthy coating of fat just beneath the skin. Too
taken off prior to cooking and with it goes the fat – a missed opportunity i
poached or baked, the skin can easily be peeled back after cooking. Durin
over the fish, moistening the flesh and imparting its own unique flavour

Quality Points suppresses a lot of wh

however, in balancing
Fat can vary in its colouring, ranging from a tinted yel-
with the right amount
low through to white, off-white, cream and even orange
ageing is not pushing
within salmonoid species. Like many other organs set
too dry and there is to
inside the cavity of the fish, the fat can also be compro-
result in the fat going
mised due mainly to the gall bladder being punctured
and its bile causing staining and imparting a very bitter
Application
aftertaste, which makes careful extraction essential.
There are a multitude
The fat should be as odourless as the fillets. Its texture,
ly removed blocks o
again subject to seasonality and species, will vary
from curing it into
from a thin webbing that surrounds the fish organs
it into a liquid fat fo
and almost looks like caul fat from a pig through to
within alcohol-based
small soft greasy pieces hidden in and around the
making soaps and c
liver and intestines, and the large firm white blocks
really is the limit!
of fat extracted from aquaculture species of fish.
Similarly, with regar
Extraction resides within the re
cookery are on the t
To remove the fat of the fish, once the cavity has been where the fat slowly
opened and all the organs and gills have been set aside smoke to hit the skin
onto a board, take a small knife and cut the fat away the flesh, results in
from the intestine and stomach, being careful not to Poaching, steaming
puncture the gall bladder or any other organs. In other with the skin on and
cases where the fat is finer and less prominent, it can texture from the gel
be simply pulled away with your hands. bones, while the fat
Extraction can be seen as a physical action of
removing something, but in the case of fats it can also be there waiting for
be thought of as unlocking the potential flavours within The correct selection
the fish. A critical part of the dry-ageing process is a important factor wh
controlled reduction in moisture with an associated a fish. Selecting a ric
promotion of the fats that naturally reside within the a good marriage, as
flesh of the fish. This fat carries much of the unique for the consumer. A
identity of the fish and makes it simpler for the cook naturally very lean
to decide on flavours to pair with it, rather than the baked in an oven, as
stereotypical wedge of lemon that neutralises or of experiencing the

6. Another wonderful method of cookery to coax the natural fat from within a fish to the surface is to very carefully remove the skin
of fat underneath. Set the skin aside for another application. Season the flesh of the fish with a little flaked or coarse sea salt, then
carefully push the coal against the fish, only keeping it there for a second. Move the coal along the rest of the flesh, only ever holdin
does two things: firstly, it gives the fish an incredible flavour that penetrates the whole fillet, and secondly, the severity of the heat
the flesh, resulting in an uncompromised texture (as opposed to the preparation of tataki in a frying pan, using a blowtorch or gri
toughens and dries too much).

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 BONES, CARTILAGE AND

The bones, cartilage and fins of a fish are similar in all species. Some pe
with the wastage of these particularparts as, once gutted and scaled, the fi
bone-in cutlet. Irrespectiveof this, I felt it important to include these par
aren’t considered enough outside the realm of making stock.

Extraction whole on the spine bo

pull out the pin bones.
The extraction of these items is subject somewhat to
and effort, but it may
how you prepare the rest of the fish. Scissors, knives
give someone a memor
and fish pliers are all important tools when filleting
With regards to bon
or processing whole fish. Knowing the anatomical
incredibly fresh and y
composition of where bones sit allows you to be a little
and that it has been d
more intentional about what gets cut first and what
morsel is worth the eff
will be left at the end.
marrow of tuna, sword
Road-mapping the cutting before the knife enters
when roasted whole o
the fish will bring good solutions for the final product
portion of the fish tha
and also help with the length of time you are able to
number of ways to enj
store a fish for as once the fish comes off the bone, the
toast with herbs and p
clock starts ticking. The bone plays a critical role in
salt and pepper and se
shielding the flesh from exposure to oxygen and light,
If there isn’t an imm
which can alter the taste and texture of a fish rapidly
then, once they are sc
and dramatically.
until enough are accum
Application fins to a fish stock or
much gelatine. The rea
In terms of how to use these items from a fish, the not just in fish cookery
easiest way is to cook a fish on the bone so that you that it acts as a conduit
allow the flesh of the fish to benefit from the extra will also increase the
flavour and gelatine that resides within the bone. Also, has. Natural gelatines
by cooking on the bone, the fish holds its shape and of a fish will also add
moisture far better, and there is a little bit more wiggle that may otherwise ha
room when it comes to timing the cook due to the dressings can be made
protection the bone provides. taste of the fish that th
Many would say they prefer to eat a fillet than a stand-alone product t
whole or bone-in piece of fish. One reason for this is Outside of gastronomy,
a fear of the smaller rib and pin bones of a fish that the potential to be ma
may have either caused us or someone we have seen glaze for ceramic plate
to choke. The way to combat this is to leave the fish

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OceanofPDF.com
 M AW

The maw, swim bladder, bubble or float of a fish is found behind the o
spine. There are a number of techniquesyou can apply to utilise the maw
only one per fish, it is importantto preserve the maw until you have eno

Extraction Application

The maw is best removed from the cavity of a fish by To preserve the maw,
gutting the fish conventionally in one piece with little were cleaning a hood
mess (see page 49). Once the organs are removed, look knife to scrape away
for a large blown-up balloon shape, though it may so that it is one even
have popped and be hidden behind the offal. Cut the steaming basket, stea
maw away with a sharp pair of scissors. It is important take anywhere betwe
that the maw is unblemished and free of any odour. on the fish. Once soft
transfer on a tray to
or use a dehydrator
completely, approxim
Once thoroughly
in a multitude of app
in a clean container
cryovacked to keep t
be rehydrated in wat
use within soups, sto
could be deep-fried
and tripled in size. E
200° C (390° F) as thi
dramatically and ma
to raw fish dishes or
roasted vegetables.
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OceanofPDF.com
THE CUTS
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BASIC FILLETING
Be sure to start with a gutted fish with trimmed fins. For the first cut, po
facing you and the head to the left (or the right if you are

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OceanofPDF.com
1. Pull the pectoral fins outwards and make
a cut behind to separate them from the
fillet, then cut around behind the head
until you hit bone. By doing this you are
effectively separating the fish collars from
the fillet.

2. Turn the fish so the belly is facing away

from you (head on the right, tail on the
left), then, starting from the cut at the
top of the head, cut along the backbone
from the head to the tail, cutting smoothly
along the length of the fillet. Angling your
knife towards the bones, keep running it
along where the flesh meets the bones to
open out the fillet until you feel it reach
the raised spine in the middle. Using your
knife, stay as close to the spine as possible
and go over the bone.

3. Place the knife flat against the backbone

and push the point through to the other
side of the fillet. With the knife protruding
out the other side and pressing against the
spine, cut all the way to the tail to separate
the tail section.

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4. Lift the tail section to expose the ribs.
Snip through the ribs with kitchen
scissors up to the first cut. You can now
remove the first fillet.

5. Flip the fish so the belly faces towards

you and the head points left. Repeat the
first cut, then cut along the back through
the rib bones and, guiding the knife by
pressing it against the ribs, cut towards the
pin bones, then turn the knife the other
way and cut up and against the ribs, using
the bones as a guide and gently peeling
away and slicing as you go.

6. Cut the second fillet away from the

frame using scissors and wipe clean
with paper towel.
OceanofPDF.com
FILLETING (HEAD AND TA
Be sure to start with a gutted fish with trimmed fins, with the belly facin
(or to the right if you are left-handed).

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OceanofPDF.com
1. Starting from the very top of the head,
cut smoothly along the backbone from
the head to the tail. Angling your knife
towards the bone, run it along where
the flesh meets the bone to open out the
fillet until you feel your knife reach the
raised spine in the middle, then place the
knife flat against the backbone and push
the point through to the other side of
the fillet. (It is critical here that the knife
stays as close to the bone as possible to
prevent any flesh from being left behind
around this tail section.) With the knife
protruding out the other side and pressing
against the spine, cut all the way to the tail
being sure to slowly split the tail in half,
allowing a tail presentation for both fillets.

2. Lift the tail section to expose the open

cavity where the offal once was and
where the ribs are connected to the spine.
At this point, the ribs and the head are
the only two sections that are keeping
the fillet in place.

3. Snip through the ribs with kitchen scissors

all the way up to the head. The fillet
should now be separate from the spine.
OceanofPDF.com
4. Turn the fish so the head is immediately
in front of you and tail furthest away.
Have the fish cavity side up and turn
the cut fillet flesh side up to the left.
Using a sharp cleaver, cut down the left
side of the spine and split the head in
half. By doing this the fillet will now be
completely free. Set aside the first head
and tail intact half fillet.

5. Flip the fish so the belly faces away from

you and the head points left. Follow
the same process as for the initial fillet,
starting this time by putting the knife
in at quite an acute angle at the tail end,
gradually lowering the angle and guiding
the blade towards the head along the
backbone, maintaining close proximity
to the spine. Once you have reached the
centre of the fillet, cut the tail section of
the fillet away from the bone, ensure you
take the remaining half tail along with it
for presentation purposes.

6. Use scissors once more to cut the ribs off

the spine and, once at the head of the fish,
use scissors to cut away the dense bone
from behind the last half of the head. (If
the scissors can’t get through this bone,
use the cleaver to cut away.) Using a small
sharp knife, cut away the pin bones from
the ribs, then sweep the blade under the
ribs. Repeat on the other fillet, then use
pliers to remove the pin bones, being
careful to simply wipe the pliers on a piece
of kitchen paper next to you instead of
dipping them into water each time (as
even wet pliers here will be detrimental
to the longevity of the fillet).

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COLLAR AND BELLY ‘SUP
 This cut harnesses the darker, fattier meat that lies within the collar
intramuscularfat-rich belly, and it is absolutelydelicious. The idea to rem
and serve them as one piece came from a chicken supreme, where the w
breast of a chicken. To achieve this cut, start with a traditionallygutted fi
position the fish with the head on your left and tail to

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OceanofPDF.com
1. To achieve this cut, start with a traditionally gutted fish. to you. Turn the fish ov
If you are right-handed, position the fish with the head from you but now the t
on your left and tail to the right, then, using a short sharp the right. Repeat the ex
knife, cut from the anal vent of the fish in a straight line that the two cuts you ha
back towards you until it reaches the top of the fins closest line at the top of the fish
2. Insert a short sharp knife into the flesh immediately sure to stop a quarter o
behind the head of the fish so your knife touches the hard the collar off the belly. O
collar bone on the left side of the blade. Draw the blade the muscle that separate
down from the very top point of the fillet behind the head belly, cut to follow this
at an angle that is consistent with the collar bone, being

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3. The position of this seam sits just below the end of the which can be easily sn
rib bones, so it will be completely boneless except for the cut should now have
collar at the end. This cut will now look like a chicken full length of the belly
breast shape. It will still be attached at the top of the collar,
OceanofPDF.com
BUTTERFLY (HEAD O
This method can also be done with the head off, but when there is so m
why would you want to remove it?

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OceanofPDF.com
1. Assuming you’re right-handed (otherwise reverse these where the flesh meets t
directions), place a whole scaled fish on a chopping board you feel your knife has
with its head to your left and tail to your right, with the middle. Place the knife
belly facing you. Using a short sharp knife, draw the push the blade across s
tip down the backbone of the fish from the head end the fillet. (The knife mu
to the tail, cutting along one side of the bone. Angling possible to prevent any
your knife towards the bone, continue to run it along tail section.)

2. Open the tail section you have just cut into to expose
the beginning of the cavity containing the offal and
where the ribs are connected to the spine. Snip through
the ribs with kitchen scissors all the way up to the head.
OceanofPDF.com
3. Once the fillet is free from the connecting ribs but still
held in place by the tail, head and belly, snip the visible
gills from just beneath the head. Using the heel of a
chef ’s knife, butterfly the head through the back so that
it flattens the head rather than cuts it in half.
4. Pulling from the freed gills towards the tail end of the ribs off the spine. Con
fish, lift out the offal in one piece. Draw your knife down the backbone by cuttin
the backbone again for the second fillet, however this in front of the tail to g
time the knife’s first entry point is at the tail end and is intact and a butterflied
drawn up towards the head end of the fish. Once the pin bones and rib bon
fillet is free from the spine but the skin of the fish is still species, it may be easie
fully intact, proceed once more with scissors to cut the small sharp knife.)

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REVERSE BUTTERFLY (HE
Make sure the fish is scaled and gutted conventionallybefore attemptin
fish with the head nearest to you and the tail furthe

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OceanofPDF.com
1. Using sharp kitchen sc
left-hand side of the fis
from the spine, but stop
step down the right-han
you a clear track to use

2. Position the fish now w

tail on your right. Using
blade down the scissore
next to the spine.
OceanofPDF.com
3. Repeat on the opposit
up at the tail, use kitc
just behind the head
 4. Pull the spine carefull
sure to support the s
do damage. Use fish
rib bones. (Alternative
easier to remove the
Using a heavy knife o
down through it and

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SHORT RIB OF TUNA
 The notion of a short rib of tuna might seem a little far-fetche
comes from the aesthetic appearanceof this cut rather than where
This particularcut is derived from the collar of the tuna, located
of the fish and sitting in line with the gills. As this is a good way to
you can start here with the head only, collars int

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OceanofPDF.com
1. Using sharp scissors, cut the top of the
collar off the nape of the fish. Cut the
pectoral fin and surrounding bone and
flesh away from the collar, making sure
to keep the cut straight and clean. Repeat
with the remaining side.
2. Position the collar on a cutting board
skin side up with the tuna’s clavicle to
your left. This will now create the longest
edge of the ‘short rib’. At the base of
this, use a knife, scissors or cleaver to
cut about 2 cm (1 in) above the pectoral
fin, removing the flesh to showcase
the bone clearly and create what looks
like a handle of the ‘short rib’. Once the
flesh is removed, set aside for another
application.

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3. Once you have a prism of consolidated
flesh attached to the clavicle of the tuna,
turn this cut over and proceed to remove
the skin from the muscle, being sure to
retain as much flesh as possible.

4. Using your sharp knife, seek out the

small and medium bones that sit in
the centre of the collar and are simple
to find with the blade of the knife. Just
like meat butchery, the instruction
is always to stay close to the bone, as
this way, minimal meat will be cut
away unnecessarily while the non-
structural bones that inevitably hinder
the enjoyment of this cut once cooked
are removed. Finish the cut by scraping
away any remaining meat and using
paper towel to polish the end of the ‘rib’
bone. This cut is now ready to be grilled
over hot coals or under a grill, or even
roasted and glazed in the oven.

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 FRENCHED CUTLET

(RIB BONE IN, SPINE O

 This is a perfect cut for crumbingas, apart from the single rib bon
are completelyboneless. To attempt this cut, be sure to start with a fi
scaled and is no less than 2 kg (4 lb 6 oz), as anything smaller will n
structurallystrong enough.

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OceanofPDF.com
1. Position the fish on the cutting board with the head to them. Work your knife
your left and tail to the right. Using a short sharp knife, collar and belly, then tu
cut from the anal vent of the fish in a straight line towards is still away from you b
the collar, being careful not to cut through the rib bones head on the right. Repe
that sit immediately below. Like a rack of lamb, the idea that the two cuts you ha
here is to remove the belly from half of the ribs to expose line at the top of the fish
2. Using a cleaver or large chef ’s knife, slice through the finishing on the tail sid
soft vertebrae and then find the spinal vertebrae to cut the other side ensuring
in between, allowing you to then cut off the tail end of allowing you to cut the
the fish, which can be set aside for another purpose. and collars aside for a s
Draw the blade down in a diagonal line from the nape remaining now is both
behind the head of the fish, past the pectoral fin and bones still in place.

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3. Using a sharp pair of scissors, cut the ribs away from the sides of the spine, cut
central spine, being careful not to penetrate the full length remove the central spi
of the scissors into the flesh, as this will compromise intercostals from betw
the final aesthetic. Once the ribs have been cut off both aside for another recip
4. With a chef ’s knife now, cut between each frenched rib bring a pot of water to
bone. This will create individualised cutlets and allow pin into the water. Once t
bones to be removed from the flesh. Repeat on the other into the hot water, use
side. To clean the flesh fully off these exposed rib bones, cooked flesh from the

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YELLOWFIN TUNA RIB
This cut is a result of utilising the first loin and two boneless bellies for s
and then leaving the last loin on the spine and frame that i

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OceanofPDF.com
1. To start working with this last remaining loin of the tuna
that is on the bone, use a sharp knife to cut away the
cartilage and spines from the top of the fish.
 2. Once these are removed
and treat the tuna as if
intercostals out from in
meat aside for another
the bones with scissors

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3. Once the bones are free of meat, they can be polished
back to white with the assistance of some boiling hot
water and paper towel.
4. The next cut is to remove the significant presence of the to take too much. This
lateral swimming muscle off the side of the fish. (You either be grilled or roa
don’t want to take it all off as this carries a lot of the on the vertebrae to sep
savoury qualities of the fish, however leaving too much steaks. It is then at you
in place can be a little overwhelming.) Start with a long on and remove after c
sharp straight-edge knife and proceed to sculpt away the can be simply done w
dark muscle from the side of the tuna, being sure not closely to the skin as p

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BUTTERFLIED BELL
 This is a cut that I really enjoy cooking and one that I feel would be enj
a common method of preparation.The cut must be made with a scaled b
needs to be kept intact to execute it properly

This large, boneless, triangular-shapedpiece of fish is easy to grill ove

desire – I personallylike to sit it on a wire rack and leave it to dry slight
refrigerator,as this only makes the skin crunchier when cooked over coa
in this way, use a weight on top while cooking to create an even surface
the fish to avoid the need to then flip the flesh onto the

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OceanofPDF.com
1. Select a short sharp knife and, starting just behind the down to finish just behi
pectoral fin and in line with the lateral line of the fish, this same cut on the oth
make a cut that follows that line but begins to sweep back cuts meet up at the base
2. Using your knife, cut the collar off where it meets the
nape of the fish. Do this on both sides.

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3. Scissor down the initial cut to separate the ribs from the
spine. Using your knife, remove the fillet from the bone,
leaving the cartilage intact at the tail end. Repeat on the
opposite side.
4. Cut the belly off the fish to leave you with the whole to remove pin bones a
belly in one triangular-shaped piece, setting aside the depending on species,
remainder of the fish for another application, such rib bones with a small
as Saddle chops (see pages 120–3). Use fish tweezers

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 P O R T I O N I N GA F I S H F I L

F O R B AT T E R E D F I S H

Over the years of serving battered fish, we have It is completely at yo

encountered just about every known scenario of or thin you slice your p
undercooked, overcooked, under-fried and raw batter batter recipes), however,
or over-fried and burnt batter. Many of the issues stem is critical in retaining a
from portioning and thickness, which are both critical has time to caramelise
to a memorable piece of fried fish – when portioning crunch. As a rough guid
fish for battered fish, it’s super important that the whether the skin should
surface area is even and the size very similar from piece the following method,
to piece. cut the portions as follo
What’s also critical in terms of preparing a fish for
battering is selection of fish species. To me the perfect 1. Place the fillet on a cu
fish for battering is one that has a little bit of density and down and the shoulde
thickness to it as this will assist in moisture retention the right.
and create a crunchy exterior and moist interior. It 2. At a 45-degree angle,
is also important to work with a fish that has a good (1½ in) from the shou
amount of visible intramuscular fat – selecting a fish side down to the skin
that is too lean or known to dry out when cooked thickness, continue to
past medium-rare will not perform any better in of the fillet.
batter than in a frying pan or on a grill. It helps to see
3. Once you reach the p
battering as not so much deep-frying but more an
to taper away and bec
insulative steamed method of cookery that relies heavily
between cuts to appro
on residual heat to continue cooking the fish after
a wider surface area b
coming out of the fryer. And don’t let nostalgia be the the shallower depth.
determining factor when selecting a fish for battering – to ensure cooking tim
doing so can restrict you from exploring a more diverse
array of species and opportunities that might be better
than what you ate growing up.
I prefer to leave the skin on when deep-frying as this
will give the consumer a very clear understanding of the
identity of the fish that you are frying from the point of
view of flavour, as well as retaining more moisture and
a good amount of gelatine. However, this decision needs
to be informed by whether the fish you are cutting has
skin that will be tender and soft once fried – there are
a number of fish species we use where the skin must be
removed as it just doesn’t break down in the amount of
time it takes for the fillet to cook.

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OceanofPDF.com
 F I S H P O R T I O N SF O R G R I L L

In fish cookery, the cooking method, choice of species a generous surface are
and decision of how to cut it to complement the conditioned well throu
method are all of equal importance for me – these three storage, you will have
variables can fundamentally determine whether or not skin incredibly crispy
you will have a thoroughly enjoyable eating experience. the fire, the fat that res
Grilling fish seems simple enough, however the pores and drips down
majority of the time, due to the skin being wet, or the smoke that then enters
grill being too hot or not hot enough, we wind up in a wonderful flavour an
a bit of a mess. Having grilled fish over coals for the past If you want to grill
six years at Saint Peter and then at Fish Butchery and then do so by cooking
Charcoal Fish, I find myself grilling more and more as a portion that exceeds
it really is one of the most delicious and simplest ways far more enjoyable to
to cook. individual portions th
When grilling, I make sure I am selecting fish and care than one sing
that isn’t too thick. Working with a thick fillet of achieve a wonderfully
fish becomes incredibly difficult, even with the texture for a large piec
assistance of a fish weight, as the skin takes on colour the oven. Baking the fi
disproportionately quicker to the time that it takes to beautifully even finish
cook the flesh. Furthermore, flipping the unprotected ease after grilling.
flesh side directly onto a hot grill will result in a To reverse cook for
compromised texture and aesthetic. a wire rack in a prehea
There is a long list of Australian species that I love 65°C (150°F) with a probe
to grill over coals, including rock flathead, garfish, part of the fish. When
flounder, King George whiting, mackerel, herring, approximately 40°C (105°
bonito and sardines. The common thread between all of species, remove it from
these species is that they are relatively small fish and the 5 minutes, then brush
majority can either be cooked on the bone or butterflied. as grapeseed and seaso
The beauty of cooking the fish whole on the bone is that this already cooked fil
none of the delicate flesh is exposed to the direct heat a wire rack over hot c
from the grill, meaning it has a better texture that isn’t Move the weight acros
likely to resemble a dried-out piece of skinless chicken even amount of heat r
breast. Also, cooking on the bone immediately gives a heat by moving the ra
lot of wiggle room in terms of cooking time along with nearest or furthest aw
imparting plenty of flavour from the bone and retaining from the heat complete
more of its moisture. side while still on the
Grilling a butterflied fish has to be one of my absolute up for 4–5 minutes, th
favourite methods of cooking. Butterflying creates carve the fish from the
OceanofPDF.com
 SADDLE CHOPS

(BONE IN, RIBS AND PINS

This cut is what I see as the ‘best end’ or saddle of fish. It can be left as
cuts can be made from the flesh side of the fish to create chops from
These individualiseddarnes or chops can be roasted, grilled or poach
roast this whole section of saddle or gently sauté and finish over hot c

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OceanofPDF.com
1. Start with an ungutted and scaled fish
here. Position the fish on the cutting board
with the head to your left and tail to the
right. Have the shoulder or dorsal side of
the fish closest to you and the open cavity
away. With your left hand, hold the belly
of the fish to make it taut. Using a short
sharp knife, cut from the anal vent of the
fish in a straight line back towards you till
it reaches the top of the fins closest. Turn
the fish over so that the cavity is still away
from you but now the tail is on your left
and the head on the right. Make the exact
same cut again, ensuring that the two cuts
have married up in a straight line at the
top of the fish.

2. Using your knife, cut the collar off where

it meets the nape of the fish. Do this on
both sides.

3. Scissor down the initial cut to separate

the ribs from the spine. Using your knife,
remove the fillet from the bone, leaving
the cartilage intact at the tail end. Repeat
on the opposite side. Cut the belly off the
fish whole in one triangular-shaped piece
and carefully remove the offal for other
applications (see pages 57–77).

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4. Using a cleaver or large chef ’s knife, cut
through the soft vertebrae to cut off the
tail end of the fish. This can be set aside
for another purpose. Draw the blade down
in a diagonal line from the nape behind
the head of the fish, past the pectoral fin
and then finishing on the tail side of the
pelvic fin. Repeat this cut on the other side
ensuring the two cuts marry up at the top,
allowing you to simply cut the head and
collars off the fish. Set these aside along
with the tail for separate applications.
You will now be left with both fillets on
the bone, with the belly intact and the rib
bones still in place.

5. Holding the saddle in your hand with the

head end closest to your body, use a sharp
pair of scissors to cut the ribs away from
the central spine. Place the fish back down
onto the cutting board and sweep out the
rib bones with a short sharp knife. The cut
can be left as one long piece or further
cuts can be made from the flesh side of
the fish to create chops from between
the vertebrae.
OceanofPDF.com
STUFFED BONELESS SAD
This is about as complicatedas you can get for a fish cutting and
But then, this book is called Fish Butchery ... Think of it as the p

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OceanofPDF.com
1. Position a scaled and gutted fish on
a cutting board with the head nearest to
you and the tail furthest away. Using a
sharp heavy kitchen knife or cleaver, make
an initial cut between the vertebrae on the
spine and remove the head cleanly as a
single unit. Remove the collars by making
a further diagonal cut from the top of the
shoulder of the fillet down to the belly of
the fish just behind the first fin.

2. Using sharp kitchen scissors, begin cutting

down the left-hand side of the fish spine
to disconnect the ribs from the spine,
but stop at the anal vent. Repeat this step
down the right-hand side of the spine.
This now gives you a clear track to use
your knife in the next step.

3. Position the fish with the tail on the right.

Using a small sharp knife, draw the blade
down the scissored opening that you have
made next to the spine. Repeat on the
opposite side. When these two cuts meet
up at the tail, use kitchen scissors to snip
the tail.

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4. Pull the spine carefully off the skin of
the fish, making sure to support the
surrounding flesh so it doesn’t rip. Use
fish tweezers to remove the pin bones
and rib bones. (Alternatively, depending
on the species, it may be easier to remove
the rib bones with a small sharp knife by
sweeping them out.)

5. Cut the top loins out of both sides of the

fillet, being careful not to cut a hole in the
skin. Set the top loin pieces aside as these
will be put back in when it comes time to
assemble the roll.

6. Next, place the blade of a short sharp knife

into the thickest part of the fish, which is
the mid loin that sits next to the vacant
space you have created by removing the
top loins. The entry of the blade should
be on the pin bone side of the mid loin,
not next to where the top loins have just
come out. The aim is to make an even
cut through this thick part of the fillet to
create what looks like a book opening.
The piece that butterflies open will fill the
vacant space where the top loin once sat,
so now you will have one flat, even layer of
fish. The challenge in making this open-
book cut is to not let the knife exit on the
other side – you want the mid loin to still
be connected so that it fits in the space
snugly and doesn’t want to slip out.

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7. Similar to how the top loins were carefully
taken off the skin without doing any
damage, cut the bellies off the skin on
both sides of the fish. Set the skinless
whole bellies aside with the top loins in
readiness to roll. What you should now be
looking at is a rectangle of unpunctured
skin where the bellies once sat, with the
book-opened mid loins now spread across
the space that was created by removing
the top loins and a thin line of cartilage
down the centre holding the two fillets
together.

8. To create a nice finish, place a square of

nori seaweed over this central square of
flesh and push down so it adheres evenly.
Wrap the two top loins of the fish together
in another square of nori seaweed. Set
these pieces aside in the refrigerator for
a moment to come together.

9. On the central square of flesh, place one

of the two bellies down from head to
tail on the board. On top of this, place
a sausage filling of fish trimmings (see
chorizo on page 154) across the belly in
one even layer approximately 1 cm (½ in)
thick. Place the wrapped top loins along
the centre of the sausage filling, running
in the same direction as the belly. Cover
the top of the rolled loins with a further
1 cm (½ in) thickness of sausage mix.

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10. Place the remaining belly over the top
of the sausage mix to cover the sausage
meat completely.

11. Cover the belly and sides of the

centrepiece with nori sheets and
press in at the edges to sit tightly.

12. Now pick up the skin from the left side

of the fish and pull the mid loin over to
sit atop the centrepiece and repeat on
the other side. Turn the whole cut over
so that the seam is on the cutting board.
Using kitchen twine, make a basic knot
around the end closest to you, then loop
the twine around your hand and fit it over
the opposite end of the fish away from
you. Move this loop down to a 2 cm
(¾ in) gap from where the first knot was
made, then proceed to loop twine all
the way to the end. Tie off and chill for
a further hour at least before roasting.

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FISH CROWN STUFFED UND
 This cut is inspired by a crown-roastedchicken. The butter adds a huge a
the flesh while also keeping it moist. Further flavours can be added inside
cooks. This is one of the more unconventionalcuts in this book, but it’s o
the finished result is pretty special, especiallyif it’s truffl

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OceanofPDF.com
1. Before beginning, wash and sanitise a standard stainless matured for a minimum
steel knife-sharpening steel. Start with a 4–5 kg nice and dry. Cut the ta
(8 lb 13 oz) fish at minimum that has been traditionally the caudal fin.
gutted and scaled with the fins trimmed – and hung and
2. Using a very sharp short knife, make a small incision
between the skin and the flesh approximately 2 cm
(¾ in) deep, working just beneath the skin, no deeper.
Insert the sanitised steel into this incision and gently
push it upwards toward the skin to avoid it puncturing
the flesh. The aim is to separate the skin from the flesh all
the way across the surface up to the top of the fish behind
the collars. Pay close attention to where the belly is
particularly thin. If the steel punctures or damages the
flesh or your steel comes out through the skin, this will
flaw your finished product. Once the skin is completely
separate all the way around the fish, place in the
refrigerator.

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3. Prepare a compound butter, a softened salted butter refrigerator, open the
with grated fresh black truffle or any other flavoured insert the piping bag o
butter of your choice. Whip the softened butter and the incision and, with
place in a piping (icing) bag. Remove the fish from the all the way up to the c
4. Once filled all the way around, return the fish to the reaching an internal t
refrigerator, this time on a wire rack sitting on its collars 45° C (113° F). (This st
and tapping open the head, as shown. To cook, preheat temperature due to th
the oven to 240° C (465° F) and roast the fish for a time which you don’t want
proportionate to the skin becoming crisp and the flesh

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DOUBLE SADDLE OR BAR

(RIBS ON, PINS OUT

The benefits of this cut are not only its visual beauty but the flavour gain
and the retention of moisture and structure.This cut is perfect for grilli
poaching in a curry or stock.

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OceanofPDF.com
1. Start with a fish that has been gutted and
scaled, with fins trimmed. Position the
fish on a cutting board with the head to
your left and tail to the right. Using a
cleaver or large chef ’s knife, cut through
the soft vertebrae and then find the spinal
vertebrae to cut in between, allowing you
to then cut off the tail end (this can be set
aside for another purpose). What you are
left with now is the head end of the fish,
which has one intact fillet on each side.

2. Position the fish back at the centre of the

board now with the head on the left and
cavity facing away from you. Draw the
blade down in a diagonal line from the
nape behind the head of the fish, past
the pectoral fin and then finishing on
the tail side of the pelvic fin. Repeat this
cut on the other side, ensuring the two
cuts marry up at the top, allowing you
to then cut the head and collars off. Set
the head and collars aside for a separate
application. What’s remaining now is
both fillets on the bone with the belly
still intact, meaning the rib bones are
still in place.

3. Find the lateral line of the fish by looking

for a visible line across the surface of
the skin. Once found, depending on the
size fish you are working with, place
two fingers on the belly side of the line
and make a small mark with your knife
indicating where to cut. Using a long
sharp knife, cut across this line being
careful not to cut through the rib bones
that sit immediately below (like a rack of
lamb, the idea here is to remove the belly
off half of the ribs to expose them). Repeat
on the other side and set the bellies aside
for another application.

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4. Once half the ribs are exposed, proceed
with a short sharp knife to cut the
intercostals or the meat from between the
ribs. This meat can be set aside for another
recipe. Repeat on the other side. To
clean the flesh fully off these exposed rib
bones, bring a pot of water to the boil and
carefully dip only the bones into the water,
then use a tissue or towel to rub away the
cooked flesh from the bone.

5. With a chef ’s knife now, cut each vertebrae

within the open cavity of the fish leaving
you with a portion of double saddle that
has its frenched rib bones intact. Once cut,
the couple of pin bones that will now be
visible can be removed with fish pliers.
OceanofPDF.com
BONE IN FOREQUART

(PINS OUT AND R IBS O

 The final cut will have the complete spine and frame intact on the fil
inconvenienceof the pin and rib bones. The beauty of this cut is that i
with the freedom to cook it on both the skin and bone sides. This is
one that looks very generous when it lands on the din

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OceanofPDF.com
1. Start with a fish that has been gutted and scaled. Position the fish closest to you a
the fish on a cutting board with the head to your left and the dorsal and pectoral
the tail to the right. Have the shoulder or dorsal side of
2. Using a cleaver or large chef ’s knife, cut through the soft
vertebrae and find the spinal vertebrae to cut in between,
allowing you to then cut off the tail end. This can be set
aside for another purpose.

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3. What you are left with now is the head end of the fish, spine to disconnect th
which has one intact fillet on each side. Using sharp take you all the way to
kitchen scissors, cut down the left-hand side of the fish tail away from the fish
4. Position the fish now with the head at the top of the around so that the hea
board and the tail closest to you. Using a small sharp cleaver, split the head
knife, draw the blade down the scissored opening that the fillet and the head
you have made next to the spine on the left side of the fish tweezers to remov
fish. Cut all the way through as if you are filleting be left with one side o
the fish. The only thing holding the fish in place now but with head and coll
is it still being connected to the head. Turn the fish side will be still on the

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WHOLE ROTISSERIE F
 To ensure a crunchy exterior and juicy interior, work with a fish that
minimumand has had at least 3 days to mature and dry slightly. Too f
outcome will be good but not remarkable.

Leaving the belly uncut when gutting the fish will give you extra surfac
slowing down the cooking on the rotisserie, which will inevitably give a
this method can be attemptedwith a conventionallyg

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OceanofPDF.com
1. To prepare the fish, start by wiping the skin to ensure
there is no surface moisture, then use scissors to cut off
all the fins (these will be the first things to burn off on
a grill). Continue with the scissors and cut the bottom
jaw off the fish. This will allow access to the gills, so cut
them out too.
2. Once the gills are detached from the head and collars,
pull the gills with the rest of the offal out of the opening
created by the jaw being removed. Set offal aside for
another application. Use paper towels to clean any
remaining offal out of the cavity.

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3. The rotisserie spear can be placed through the mouth of the cooking, be sure to gain
fish, down through the cavity where the offal previously was the fish before turning
and then, following the spine down either side, puncturing done by stopping and s
the base of the tail to exit. Brush with a little olive oil, season is even – then cook unt
well with salt and set aside until ready to cook. During thickest part of the fish
OceanofPDF.com
 TUNA TA I L ROUND

This cut riffs on the idea of oxtail and the compositionof oxtail rounds
amounts of tuna, the tail section can start accumulatingas a very und
to the amount of connectivetissue present within this hard-working s
the meat from the tails can be cut away and ground into a mince to be
bologneseand salamis, but having another option like this is n
1. Using a heavy sharp chef ’s knife, cut the tail off
the fish at approximately the fifth vertebrate.

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2. Cut the skin off the tuna then separate
each vertebra into rounds.

3. Once the rounds are cut, assemble the

largest round in the centre of a cutting
board and then position the smaller
rounds around that central piece.

4. Using kitchen twine, make a double loop

around the circumference of the rounds
and tie them off firmly. Make a loop over
your hand as if you are trussing the fish
and place that around the diameter of
the fish. Continue to add more loops
on different tangents to help hold these
rounds of tuna in place. When the tuna
is firmly strung together, place in the
refrigerator to set.

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The tail rounds can obviously be cooked independently, pan to complete the coo
but to make the most of holding them together like or beef cheeks, this tun
this, the strung tuna round can first be marinated The final product shoul
in wine and aromatics like thyme, rosemary, juniper and rosy, but the benefit
and orange zest. Dust the whole marinated round in is that the spine is full
a little plain (all-purpose) flour to assist in thickening it softens down, this m
the sauce around it in the end, then brown the tuna off enriches the sauce that
in a hot frying pan until evenly tanned. Remove and you something complete
drain well, then add the marinating wine to the pan wow everyone. This is
and deglaze. Reduce the wine to a glaze and add a dark mashed potato or, altern
fish stock on top of this, or follow the recipe for Fish can be substituted for a
Jus (see page 245) and use this as the basis of a sauce. and then served with a
Reduce by half and then add the whole round to the

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OceanofPDF.com
 CRAFT

A butcher’s greatest opportunities lie within the sundries o

about the significant ethical responsibility in great detail in
important is the economical responsibility of the busines
can be achieved by creating value-added foods with these
applied themselves to this aspect of the craft then we wo
dogs, ham, sausages or salami.
This section of the book highlights the many creative opp
not just from a gastronomic standpoint but from extensio
using fish bone in ceramics and the utilisation of fish offal
Deriving such craft items from one fish is part of the wa
future. And it is the industry’s responsibility to bring this

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OceanofPDF.com
CHARCUTERIE
OceanofPDF.com
 FRESH CHORIZO

What’s most important about this fish chorizo recipe is the 2 days of ha
these sausages allows the casings to dry slightly, making them far simple
nice and dry after 2 days, the chorizo can be covered and stored or, altern

MAKES 9 . 4 KG ( 2 0 LB 12 OZ) Place the Murray cod, salmon and fish fat in
OR ABOUT 7 4 S AU S AG E S below 0° C (30° F), mince through a 1 cm (½
the remaining ingredients and mix very well
4 kg (8 lb 13 oz) fresh boneless,
the mixture) until sticky, approximately 10–1
skinless Murray cod (or gurnard)
in the refrigerator for a minimum of 2 hours.
3.5 kg (7 lb 12 oz) fresh boneless,
skinless salmon Soak casings in water for 1 hour prior to fillin
1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) Cured Fish Fat
Set up a sausage filler. Temperature check the
( page 250)
filling, aiming to stay below 8° C (45° F). When
10 garlic cloves, microplaned
the work surface is damp, so the sausages don
30 g (1 oz) cure #1
a spray bottle of water to mist over the bench.
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) quinoa flakes
120 g (4 ½ oz) table salt Poke the sausages with a needle if you see any
80 ml (2 ½ fl oz/⅓ cup) white vinegar the sausages by twisting them at 12 cm (4¾ i
60 g (2 oz) chilli flakes
Hang sausages on butcher’s hooks in a conven
15 g (½ oz) finely grated nutmeg
1° and 2° C (33 and 35° F). If keeping longer t
15 g (½ oz) dried oregano
prevent overdrying.
15 g (½ oz) ground cumin
32 g (1 oz) ground black pepper These fresh chorizo can be simply pan-fried in
40 g (1½ oz) garlic powder grilled over coals until just done. Subjecting
200 g (7 oz) smoked paprika can cause the skins to break. If cooked for too
200 g (7 oz) sweet paprika out the sausage as there is naturally less fat in
ox casings meat-based variety.
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OceanofPDF.com
 T U N A C H O R I Z OC A S T E L

Unlikethe Fresh Chorizothat also appearsin the book (page 154),this is

can be sliced and consumedas a cold cut, similar to a salami.

MAKES 4 . 5 KG ( 9 LB 15 OZ) Place the tuna, smoked salmon and fish fat
OR ABOUT 2 5 S AU S AG E S a commercial meat grinder fitted with a 13

5 kg (11 lb) boneless, skinless Once the fish is below 0° C (30° F), mince th
tuna trim with all other filling ingredients, then place
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) boneless, skinless coolroom for at least 1 hour until ready to fi
cold-smoked salmon fillet
Soak casings in water for 1 hour prior to fill
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) Cured Fish Fat
( page 250) Set up a sausage filler. Temperature check th
100 g (3 ½ oz) table salt filling, aiming to stay below 8° C (45° F). Wh
18 g (¾ oz) cure #2 the work surface is damp so the sausages do
15 g (½ oz) garlic powder a spray bottle of water to mist over the benc
15 g (½ oz) onion powder
Using cotton butcher’s twine, tie the sausage
30 g (1 oz) ground black pepper
long, making sure they are filled tight to avo
15 g (½ oz) ground white pepper
all over with a needle to allow moisture to e
7 g (⅛ oz) ground dried oregano
about 30 per cent. Hang the sausages on but
10 g (¼ oz) ground nutmeg
ventilated refrigerator to dry. (These sausage
40 g (1½ oz) paprika
so a salami cabinet is not necessary.) Allow
10 g (¼ oz) sodium erythorbate
depending on the humidity of your fridge,
ox casings
time. The desired result is one that is slightly
too soft in the centre. Once this desired text
to avoid the risk of the salami drying out fu
as a cold cut.
OceanofPDF.com
 M O RTA D E L L A

This recipe has becomea week-to-weekessentialfor us at Fish Butcherya

white fish and smoked salmon. The smoked salmon trim is used here as
well-roundedsmokinessthat doesn’trely upon smokingthe mortadellait
the mortadellacan simply be sliced on a meat slicer or even blended into
pasta like agnolotti or ravioli.
This mortadella recipe has been refined and tinkered with over the pa
say that it is absolutelydelicious.

MAKES 2 . 7 KG ( 6 LB) OR Start by setting up a commercial meat grinder

2 M O R TA D E L L A S A U S A G E S placing a Robot-Coupe processor jug and bla

350 ml (12 fl oz) water Before starting the mincing, combine the wat
150 ml (5 fl oz) fish sauce jug and place in the freezer. Leave in the freez
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) skinless, boneless chilled but not frozen.
white fish trim (snapper, flathead,
Mince the white fish and smoked salmon trim
cod, gurnard, mullet)
mesh plate into a clean stainless steel bowl an
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) skinless, boneless
until very cold.
smoked salmon trim (alternatively,
salmon tails and trim can be used) Remove the minced fish from the freezer and
10 g (¼ oz) table salt the cold Robot-Coupe jug. Blend the fish min
8 g (¼ oz) caster (superfine) sugar salt, sugar, egg whites and cold water and fish
250 g (9 oz) egg whites very smooth. Transfer to a cold stainless steel
20 g (¾ oz) coarsely cracked black the three remaining quarters.
pepper
Using a rubber spatula, fold through the coar
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) cubed Cured Fish
cubes of cured fish fat and place the mix in th
Fat ( page 250) or Fish Bacon cubes
the casings.
( page 174)
75 mm (3 in) plastic casings Using a sausage filler, fill two 75 mm (3 in) p
mix. Secure both ends of the casing very tigh

Hang in a combination steam and convection

is done so that the finished product stays per
very evenly. Steam at 70° C (160° F) for 30–35
temperature reaches 58° C (135° F) on a digita
cool for an hour before refrigerating. The mo
a sharp meat slicer and served as is.
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 T U N A P I S T A C H I OS A L A

Fish salami? Although the casing that I have used here is from a co
fish-basedsalami is not only extremely delicious but also remarkablysim
This recipe was developed to utilise the scraps of tuna that we would ac
whole fish. In many ways it seemed startlingly obvious to reach this out
be without a recipe that solves the issue of animal sundries?

MAKES 4 . 5 KG ( 9 LB 15 OZ) OR Place the tuna, smoked salmon and fish fat
ABOUT 2 5 S AU S AG E S (30° F), mince through a 13 mm (½ in) plate

5 kg (11 lb) fresh boneless, skinless Wearing gloves, mix the ground fish with a
tuna trim pistachios until sticky. Add the pistachios a
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) cold-smoked salmon evenly. Place the sausage mix in the refrigera
fillet, skinless to fill the casings.
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) Cured Fish Fat
Cover and soak the casings in cold water fo
( page 250)
100 g (3 ½ oz) table salt Set up a sausage filler. Temperature check th
17 g (⅔ oz) cure #2 – you are aiming to stay below 8° C (45° F).
10 g (¼ oz) onion powder the work surface is damp so the sausages do
20 g (¾ oz) grated garlic a spray bottle of water to mist over the benc
10 g (¼ oz) sodium erythorbate
Using butcher’s twine, tie the sausages at ab
400 g (14 oz/2⅔ cups) peeled raw
sure they are filled tightly to avoid separation
pistachio nuts
ox casings Poke the sausages all over with a needle to a
a weight loss of about 30 per cent.

Hang sausages on butcher’s hooks and store

dry. (These sausages are not fermented, only
not necessary.) Allow 4 weeks before slicing
the humidity of your fridge, this process ma
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 COLD-SMOKEDFISH HA

This cure translateswell betweena numberof differentspecies.My sugges

a fatty fish in peak conditionto extend the shelf life of a beautifulfish in t
If you don’t want to commit a whole fillet to this recipe, simply cure
shown here is a stripedmarlin,and one of the loins has been removed,cur
and then thinly sliced on a meat slicer.

MAKES 1 X 5 KG ( 11 LB) HAM Stir together the water, salt and cure #1 until

4.75 litres (167 fl oz/ 19 cups) water Place the trimmed fish in brine and refrigerate
250 g (9 oz) table salt more than 24 hours.
25 g (1 oz) cure #1
Remove from the brine and dry well using pa
5 kg (11 lb) boneless kingfish, tuna,
cold smoke for 2 hours. Remove from the sm
swordfish or marlin, skinned and
sinew removed Once cold, this ham can be either kept fresh
and served or be cooked. One possibility wo
internal temperature of approximately 45° C
oven and then slice thickly and drape over h
and fresh herbs.
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 M A R L I N ’N D U J A

Ensure your marlin is incredibly fresh when making a recipe like th

accumulatedtrim, not somethingthat you would purchase a kilogramo
Like the salamis,sausagesand other productsfeaturedhere, this is an atte
transformthem into somethingdelicious.

MAKES 1 . 4 KG ( 3 LB 1 O Z ) To make the ’nduja spice mix, combine all t

the excess can be stored in a clean plastic co
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) boneless, skinless
marlin trim Pass the trimmed marlin through a meat gr
300 g (10 ½ oz) rendered fish fat to a large bowl, add the rendered fish fat, m
3 garlic cloves, minced and a pinch of salt. Using gloves, mix the ’n
100 g (3 ½ oz) ’ Nduja spice mix about 5 minutes to gain a slightly sticky, firm
(see below)
Using a sausage filler, the ’nduja can be store
3 g (⅛ oz) cure #1
tied in butcher’s twine and then hung in a c
’ NDUJA SPICE MIX reduce some of the moisture. Alternatively,
550 g (1 lb 3 oz) smoked paprika
steel container or cryovac bag in the refriger
100 g (3 ½ oz) sweet paprika
The ’nduja can be fried in a pan and used in
170 g (6 oz) table salt
’nduja or alternatively eaten as a fresh produ
20 g (¾ oz) ground nutmeg
100 g (3 ½ oz) chilli flakes
30 g (1 oz) ground coriander seeds
20 g (¾ oz) ground cumin seeds
20 g (¾ oz) ground black pepper
30 g (1 oz) Vegeta stock powder
30 g (1 oz) ground sumac
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 TUNA SALAMI PICCAN

This is a fiery version of our original tuna salami that utilises the trim fr
of bringing smokinessto the final product without the need to smoke the

MAKES 4 . 5 KG ( 9 LB 15 OZ) Place the tuna, smoked salmon and fish fat in
OR ABOUT 2 5 S AU S AG E S mince through a 13 mm (½ in) plate on a com

5 kg (11 lb) boneless, skinless tuna Wearing gloves, mix the mince with all the o
trim sticky, about 10 minutes. Place the sausage m
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) cold-smoked salmon 1 hour until ready to fill the casings.
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) Cured Fish Fat
Soak the casings in water for 1 hour prior to
( page 250)
100 g (3 ½ oz) table salt Set up a sausage filler. Temperature check the
17 g (½ oz) cure #2 and filling, aiming to stay below 8° C (45° F).
15 g (½ oz) onion powder sure the work surface is damp so the sausages
15 g (½ oz) garlic powder with a spray bottle of water to mist over the b
22 g (¾ oz) kibbled black pepper
Using butcher’s twine, tie the sausages at abou
40 g (1½ oz) smoked paprika
sure they are filled tightly to avoid separation.
7 g (⅛ oz) ground coriander seeds
with a needle to allow moisture to escape; yo
15 g (½ oz) ground fennel seeds
30 per cent.
45 g (1½ oz) ground chilli
10 g (¼ oz) sodium erythorbate Hang the sausages on butcher’s hooks in a we
ox casings (These sausages are not fermented, only cured
necessary.) Allow 4 weeks and then slice open
humidity of your fridge, this process may tak
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 TUNA IN THE STYLE OF SAUC

Although we cannot say that this is a saucisson sec, we can definitely re

point and inspiration for this recipe. By increasing the percentage of f
belly section of the tuna, this salami is wonderfully luxurious and wort
for it to be ready.

MAKES 4 . 5 KG ( 9 LB 15 OZ) Place the tuna, smoked tuna belly and fish f
OR ABOUT 2 5 S AU S AG E S (30° F), mince through a 13 mm (½ in) plate
ingredients. Place the sausage mixture in th
5 kg (11 lb) boneless, skinless
until ready to fill casings.
tuna trim
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) cold-smoked tuna Soak the casings in water for 1 hour prior to
belly (see Cold-smoked Fish Ham,
Set up a sausage filler. Temperature check th
page 162)
filling, aiming to stay below 8° C (45° F). Wh
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) Cured Fish Fat
the work surface is damp so the sausages do
( page 250)
a spray bottle of water to mist over the benc
120 g (4 ½ oz) table salt
20 g (¾ oz) cure #2 Using cotton butcher’s twine, tie the sausage
20 g (¾ oz) ground black pepper long, making sure they are filled tight to avo
225 g (8 oz) minced garlic all over with a needle to allow moisture to e
10 g (¼ oz) ground nutmeg about 30 per cent.
10 g (¼ oz) ground cumin seeds
Hang the sausages on butcher’s hooks and s
10 g (¼ oz) sodium erythorbate
to dry. (These sausages are not fermented, o
ox casings
not necessary.) Allow 5 weeks and then slice
humidity of your fridge, this process may ta
desired texture is achieved, this salami can
fridge to remove the risk of further moisture

These salami are best enjoyed cut slightly th

or olives.
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 TUNA BRESAOLA

Unlike other recipes utilising the trim or sundries from a single fish, thi
centre of a loin of tuna to capture its perfection and texturally adjust it in
a beef bresaola. Be sure to have a plan for the trim before you set out to p
Ensure that you only slice this product when you wish to consume it as

MAKES 1 . 5 KG ( 3 LB 5 O Z ) In a large mixing bowl, combine all the ingred

1 x 4 kg (8 lb 13 oz) trimmed A-grade Take the tuna loin and, using a sharp chef ’s k
yellowfin tuna loin circumference of the loin into an evenly sized
fresh bay leaves 2.5 kg (5½ lb). (Any trim from this process s
whole cinnamon sticks application, eg Marlin ’Nduja (see page 165),
collagen sheeting Tuna Patties (see page 222) or the salami reci

CURE Before adding the cure to the tuna, weigh the

300 g (10 ½ oz) ground black pepper
correctly. Using a small coarse sieve, dust the
150 g (5 ½ oz) ground fennel seeds
of cure per kilogram (2 lb 3 oz) of tuna along
150 g (5 ½ oz) table salt
cinnamon stick, making sure the cure is even
100 g (3 ½ oz) caster (superfine) sugar
a sterilised storage container in the refrigerato
100 g (3 ½ oz) cure #2
for a further 4 days.

On day 8, remove the cinnamon and bay leav

sheeting, allowing a good amount of overlap,
butcher’s twine. (Use a looping method like t
the other side, over and under on each loop.
with a loop to hang the bresaola.) Hang on a
3–4 weeks, depending on its thickness.

The finished result will be firm to the touch,

the way around and a desirable waxy centre.
ham that you would slice straight onto the se
and then serve immediately. Once sliced, the
cryovacked to remove the risk of it oxidising
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 FISH BACON

Fish baconmight sound as enticingas plant-based bacon to most, but th

for some of our most delicious menu items at Saint Peter, Fish Butchery a
One dish that this bacon specifically lands on is our yellowfin tuna
a halo of the crispiest, smokiest bacon that to most is nearly unrecogn
pescatarians wondering if they’ve mistakenly ordered pork. The most su
a rich amount of intramuscularfat, and this cure works best with bonele
fish on the bone.

MAKES 2 .18 KG ( 4 LB 13 OZ) Weigh the fish, sprinkle evenly with the appro
OF CURE and place on a stainless steel tray. Allow the
refrigerator, turning each day, then rub off th
boneless, skinless fish fillet ( kingfish,
cod, swordfish, tuna, sea mullet) In a smoker, cold smoke the fish for 4 hours.

D RY BAC O N CURE Hang the fillets on butcher’s hooks in a fan-fo

(use 130 g (4 ½ oz) per kilogram 7 and 14 days, depending on the humidity of
(2 lb 3 oz) of fish) reduced by 30 per cent of its total raw weight,
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) caster sharp meat slicer and cut the finished fish ba
(superfine) sugar the application. Alternatively, the bacon can
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) table salt thicker finish. Once sliced, any remaining ba
30 g (1 oz) ground star anise refrigerator and either hung or cryovaced to
150 g (5 ½ oz) ground cumin seeds being lost.
50 g (1¾ oz) cure #1
150 g (5 ½ oz) ground black pepper
150 g (5 ½ oz) ground coriander seeds
150 g (5 ½ oz) ground fennel seeds
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 SUJUK

This is our interpretationof sujuksausage(whichis traditionallymadewi

utilising the trim of tuna. We use tuna because it is lean and, unlike oth
book, this one contains no fat at all. Once cooked, this sujuk is delicious
hot charcoal.

MAKES 2 . 5 KG ( 5 ½ LB) Preheat a combination steam and convection

OR 3 S AU S AG E S
Place the tuna in the freezer and, once below
2.5 kg (5 ½ lb) boneless, skinless tuna a 2 mm (⅛ in) plate. Combine the ground t
trim ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Place in
70 g (2 ½ oz) table salt
Place the sujuk mix in a sausage filler and fi
4 g (⅛ oz) cure #1
casings off very tightly with butcher’s twine
8 g (¼ oz) ground black pepper
in the combination oven. Steam for approxim
25 g (1 oz) ground cumin
internal temperature reaches 55° C (130° F).
5 g (⅛ oz) ground allspice
10 g (¼ oz) roasted red pepper puree Remove from the oven. Allow to cool for 1
25 g (1 oz) garlic, peeled and minced ensuring the sausages remain hung while co
3 x 55 mm (2 ¼ in) plastic casings cylindrical shape.

Once cooled, the sujuk can be sliced and ea

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 BASIC SAUSAGE

This basic sausage recipe is a fantastic starting place to achieve just about
With this recipe in your tool belt, you will be able to eliminatea huge amo
hope that if just one recipe is taken from this book it will be this.

MAKES 2 . 5 KG ( 5 ½ LB) Place the salmon, white fish and fish fat in th
OR ABOUT 2 2 S AU S AG E S (30° F), mince through a commercial meat gr

1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) boneless, skinless Wearing gloves, mix the mince with all the o
salmon trim sticky, about 10 minutes. Place the sausage m
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) boneless, skinless 1 hour until ready to fill the casing.
white fish trim ( preferably cod,
Soak the casing in water for 1 hour prior to fi
flathead, gurnard, snapper, non-
scombroid species) Set up a sausage filler. Temperature check the
400 g (14 oz) Cured Fish Fat and filling, aiming to stay below 8° C (45° F).
( page 250) sure the work surface is damp so the sausages
150 g (5 ½ oz) quinoa flakes with a spray bottle of water to mist over the b
25 g (1 oz) table salt
Poke the sausages with a needle if you see any
15 g (½ oz) ground fennel seeds
the sausages into approximately 12 cm (4¾ i
15 g (½ oz) ground black pepper
casing by hand.
6 g (⅛ oz) cure #1
1 hog casing Hang sausages on butcher’s hooks in a refrige
2 days, cover the sausages to prevent overdryi

These fresh sausages can be simply pan-fried

grilled over coals until just done. Subjecting
can cause the skins to break. If cooked for too
out the sausage as there is naturally less fat in
meat-based variety.
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 C H I P O L ATA S

Traditionallymade with coarselygroundpork, this interpretationof a cla

of salmon and cured fish fat to give the sausage moisture and snap. Wh
are one suggestion, see it as a blank canvas that can be interpreted in a
you have mastered the techniqueof sausage making.

MAKES 5 . 4 KG ( 11 LB 14 OZ) Place the salmon, white fish and fish fat in t
OR ABOUT 8 8 S AU S AG E S (30° F), mince in a commercial meat grinder
Mix together with all the other filling ingred
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) boneless, skinless
10 minutes. Place the sausage mix in the ref
salmon trim
ready to fill casings.
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) boneless, skinless
white fish trim Soak the casings in water for 1 hour prior to
800 g (1 lb 12 oz) Cured Fish Fat
Set up a sausage filler. Temperature check th
( page 250)
filling, aiming to stay below 8° C (45° F). Wh
300 g (10 ½ oz) quinoa flakes
the work surface is damp so the sausages do
40 g (1½ oz) table salt
a spray bottle of water to mist over the benc
100 g (3 ½ oz) smoked paprika
10 g (¼ oz) sweet paprika Link the sausages into approximately 8 cm
3 g (⅛ oz) sumac filled casings by hand.
3 g (⅛ oz) Vegeta stock powder
Hang the sausages on butcher’s hooks in a r
3 g (⅛ oz) ground coriander seeds
2 days, cover the sausages to prevent overdry
3 g (⅛ oz) ground cumin seeds
2 g (⅛ oz) ground black pepper These fresh chipolatas can be simply pan-fri
2 g (⅛ oz) grated fresh nutmeg grilled over coals until just done. Subjecting
12 g (¼ oz) cure #1 can cause the skins to break. If cooked for t
2 lamb casings out the sausage as there is naturally less fat
meat-based variety.
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 C O L D - S M O K E DT U N A T A

HAM ON THE BONE

This preparationcame about in responseto a lack of creativitywhen using

Too often the tail piece of fillet is consideredless desirable,so beforeit com
as a largerpieceon the bone.Curingand smokingthis sectionof the fish in
givingyou more time and greateropportunityto use the wholefish. This is
appliedto larger fish. Select fish with a generousamountof intramuscular

MAKES 5 0 0 G (1 LB 2 O Z ) To prepare this cut, lay a whole tuna across a

OF CURE a sharp knife, cut just behind the anal fin and
the caudal fin completely and trim off 5 cm (
tuna tail
bone. Once the tail bone is exposed, clean aw
collagen casing
purposes. Using a sharp knife, remove the sk
HAM CURE minimal flesh is left on it.
75 garlic cloves, bruised, skin on
Combine the ham cure ingredients in a stainl
1 rosemary sprig
be stored in a clean plastic container for later
2 fresh bay leaves
the tuna with the cure mix at the ratio of 110
15 g (½ oz) whole fennel seeds
(2 lb 3 oz) of tuna. Cure the tuna tail uncovere
15 g (½ oz) whole black peppercorns
in the refrigerator for 8–10 days, turning ove
300 g (10 ½ oz) table salt
100 g (3 ½ oz) caster (superfine) sugar After this time has passed, wearing gloves, ru
50 g (1¾ oz) cure #1 In a smoker, cold smoke the tail for 2 hours,
until thoroughly chilled.

Wrap the tail in collagen casing. (This is a pre

hardening and minimise excess moisture loss
to the bone with butcher’s twine, running the
around the bone three times with equal spaci
On the fourth run, stop at the bottom and cu
(6½ ft) of extra twine. Start weaving the twine
web effect until you reach the bone at the top
the hook. Using a pin, puncture the collagen casing su
for ventilation.

Hang to dry in a conventional fan-forced coo

4–8 weeks. The final texture should resemble
leg ham and it can be consumed as is, cooked
or thinly sliced and used for sandwiches. Afte
it, the smoked tuna tailbone can be used in s
ham soup.

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 FRANKFURTS

Again, we’re not reinventing the wheel with this, merely tapping into a
world of meat butchery. While all of us have likely had a hot dog, the
hot dog could be as delicious. The use of prawns (shrimp), scallops an
old-fashioneddog into somethingfar more memorable.

MAKES 4 . 4 KG ( 9 LB 11 OZ) Combine the scallop, prawn, fish meat and

OR ABOUT 4 0 S AU S AG E S Divide this mixture into four batches and b
processor until almost smooth. Add in one
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) roe on scallop
blend until the mixture is smooth and mous
meat, cleaned
bowl and proceed to blend the remaining b
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) raw, shelled and
each batch.
cleaned prawn (shrimp) meat
800 g (1 lb 12 oz) skinless, boneless Use a sausage filler to fill and tie the mixture
salmon belly Refrigerate for at least 2 hours prior to cook
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) rendered fish fat
Place the frankfurts in a pot of cold water o
60 g (2 oz) table salt
until the water is 60° C (140° C). Turn off the
4 egg whites
the hot water for 5 minutes.
red collagen casings
Drain the sausages from the cooking water
a damp clean cloth in the refrigerator.

To heat the frankfurts, bring a large pot of w

the stove. Place the frankfurts in the pot and
approximately 10 minutes until thoroughly
and serve on a warm bun with your favourit
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 PAT E D E C A M PA G N E

This coarsely cut ensemble of fish and offal is a remarkableway of creatin

discarded fish that is recognisable to those of us who appreciate the
charcuterie. It is another great recipe to experiment with different flavou
your own.

MAKES 6 KG ( 1 3 LB 4 O Z ) Preheat a combination steam and convection

5 kg (11 lb) skinless, boneless white Place the white fish in the freezer. Once below
fish trim (cod, gurnard, dory) a 13 mm (½ in) plate. Combine the chilled g
150 g (5 ½ oz) coarsely diced Fish mixing bowl with all of the remaining ingredi
Bacon ( page 174), plus a further bacon slices. Season with sea salt to taste.
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) sliced on its
Line a 33 x 8 x 8 cm (13 x 3¼ x 3¼ in) terrine
longest side
bacon, ensuring that enough bacon hangs ov
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) Cured Fish Fat
fold over and cover the top. The bacon also n
( page 250), coarsely diced
terrine to ensure the filling is completely enca
200 g (7 oz) best fish liver, trimmed
and coarsely diced Press the mixture firmly into the mould and
600 g (1 lb 5 oz) brown onions, across the top.
finely diced
Place a square of baking paper over the bacon
50 g (1¾ oz) garlic cloves, grated
aluminium foil to cover the terrine well, crim
20 g (¾ oz) thyme leaves, finely
chopped Place the terrine mould on a baking tray and
20 g (¾ oz) rosemary leaves, the internal temperature reaches approximately
finely chopped the oven when cooked, take off the foil and a
20 g (¾ oz) ground white pepper 15 minutes.
12 g (¼ oz) cure #1
Place a rectangle of cardboard that matches t
50 ml (1¾ fl oz) cooking brandy
set it on top of the baking paper. Press overnig
sea salt flakes, to taste
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) weight.

The next day, the terrine can be turned out o

to serve.
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 B R AW N

This recipe specifiesthe weight of picked and cooked head meat that you
requiredto achievethis will be subjectto their size and yield. To cook the
70°C (160°F) and arrangethe heads in one even layer. Ensure that the he
will lose the juicesand settingqualitiesthat are essentialto a beautifullyd

MAKES 1 Combine the still-warm cooked head meat with t

the herbs and seasoning to taste.
1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) cooked and
picked head meat and their juices Line a 33 x 8 x 8 cm (13 x 3¼ x 3¼ in) terrin
( preferably a gelatine- and plastic wrap, ensuring there is enough overh
fat-rich fish like cod, monkfish of the terrine. Press the mixture firmly into
or coral trout)
Wrap the plastic over the long sides of the t
150 g (5 ½ oz) French shallots, peeled
it open at the shorter ends to allow any exce
and finely diced
170 g (6 oz) salted tiny capers, rinsed Place a thick piece of cardboard cut to size
85 g (3 oz) Dijon mustard weigh it down evenly with something heavy
zest of 2 lemons overnight before using.
3 tablespoons finely chopped
Use a sharp kitchen knife to slice the terrine
tarragon leaves
refrigerated to avoid the terrine drying out.
salt and cracked black pepper, to taste
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 RILLETTE

Like a traditional pork or duck rillette, this is more a mechanism for

insignificantof trim. In this recipe I have suggested using our fish ham a
gives the fish a fantastic flavour. This rillette is rich and should be enjoy
fresh bread.

MAKES 1 . 5 KG ( 3 LB 5 O Z ) Start by heating the ghee, juniper berries, gar

in a wide-based saucepan over a medium heat.
1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) ghee
12 juniper berries, crushed Place a wire rack in the base of the pan (to av
1 head of garlic, halved hot on the base) and reduce the heat to low, h
6 thyme sprigs 40–45°C (105–115°F).
4 rosemary sprigs
Add the ham to the saucepan and poach gent
2 fresh bay leaves
easily, approximately 15 minutes depending
1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) Cold-smoked Fish
Once cooked, remove it from the ghee and se
Ham ( page 162)
slightly and then return the fish to the pan to
6 French shallots, finely diced
more flavour.
salt and freshly cracked black pepper,
to taste Once cooled, remove the fish and strain well.
150 ml (5 fl oz) brandy fish into a consistency that is fine but not mu
100 ml (3 ½ fl oz) rendered fish fat
Strain the ghee of its aromatics and measure
(if using, otherwise replace with
saucepan. Add the diced shallots to the ghee
additional ghee)
tender and translucent. Add the shallots and
Season to taste and add the brandy to the mix

Pot this mixture into ramekins or a terrine o

using a spoon or spatula to ensure there are n
(3½ fl oz) of the aromatic cooking ghee into
(3½ fl oz) of rendered fish fat (if using). Pour
ramekins of rillette. Store in the refrigerator
best served with grilled sourdough and pickle
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 LIVER PÂTÉ

I absolutely love liver pâté and believe that if the fish livers are in exce
well made, this will be a recipe you return to over and over. Be sure to k
if they cook too far, the pâté can end up too grainy and the finished colo

MAKES 1 KG ( 2 LB 3 O Z ) Season the livers with some salt (indicative

the pâté to have) and the cure #1 and allow
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) fish livers, trimmed
uncovered for 10 minutes prior to cooking.
and patted dry
2 g (⅛ oz) cure #1 In a frying pan set over a medium heat, add
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) diced butter, cook the shallots until slightly caramelised,
at room temperature
Add in the port, thyme and bay leaves, bein
4 French shallots, peeled and sliced
Boil and reduce over a medium heat until s
200 ml (7 fl oz) port
Allow these glazed ingredients to cool while
4 thyme sprigs
6 fresh bay leaves Set a heavy-based cast-iron pan over a high heat. A
160 g (5 ½ oz) ghee the ghee to the pan and allow it to reach a l
salt and pepper, to taste approximately 250 g (9 oz) of the livers. The
livers on both sides but keep a very rare pin
of a few seconds on each side. The flavour c
livers will be critical to the final outcome. A
set the livers aside in a colander to drain. W
all the livers are cooked.

Remove the hard herbs from the reduction

cooked livers with the cooled reduction and

Using a jug blender, blend the liver mixture

smooth. While still blending, drop a quarter
by piece, into each batch. Tip each finished
a bowl, then continue blending the remainin

Pass the mixture through the fine sieve with

season again to taste and then pour into you
or moulds.

A thin layer of jelly or clarified butter can b

to avoid oxidisation.
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 T U N A , P I S TA C H I OA N D F I G T

Fruitand fish? Whilethe combinationis as frowneduponas cheeseand fis

The tuna in this recipe could easily be mistaken for duck or pork, and it w
sweetness.So the inspirationcame from the use of dried fruits in meat-ba
subtle sweetness but also relief when eating something quite fatty. In this
muscle of the tuna is used to impart a more savoury characteristicalong
Most will identify this part of a fish as the ‘bloodline’, which is not actuall
Enjoy this one with grilled sourdoughand a big spoonful of mustard.

MAKES 6 KG ( 1 3 LB 4 O Z ) Preheat a combination steam and convection

300 g (10 ½ oz) tuna lateral Salt the lateral swimming muscle of the tuna
swimming muscle approximately 30 minutes, then finely dice.
1 tablespoon table salt, for curing
Place the tuna trim in the freezer. Once below
5 kg (11 lb) boneless, skinless
a 13 mm (½ in) plate. Combine the ground t
tuna trim
muscle with all of the remaining ingredients
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) Cured Fish Fat
with sea salt to taste.
page 250), diced
600 g (1 lb 5 oz) brown onions, Line a 33 x 8 x 8 cm (13 x 3¼ x 3¼ in) terrine
finely diced ensuring that enough paper hangs over the s
50 g (1¾ oz) garlic cloves, grated over and cover the top. Press the mixture firm
250 g (9 oz) pistachio nuts, peeled the overhanging paper across the top. Place a
100 g (3 ½ oz) dried figs, sliced cover the terrine well, crimping the foil to sea
20 g (¾ oz) thyme leaves, finely a baking tray and place in the oven, cooking
chopped reaches approximately 55° C (130° F). Remove
20 g (¾ oz) rosemary leaves, take off the foil and allow to cool for approxim
finely chopped
Place a rectangle of cardboard that matches t
20 g (¾ oz) ground white pepper
and set on top of the baking paper. Press over
12 g (¼ oz) cure #1
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) weight.
50 ml (1¾ fl oz) brandy
salt and cracked black pepper, The next day, the terrine can be turned out o
to taste to serve.
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 PASTRIES,

PATTIES AND CRUMBED

GOODS
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 T U N A M I N C E M E A TP I

While there are another two white sauce-based pie recipes in this book
pie’ that interpretstuna as beef and suspends the ground tuna in a dark fi
be happy to squeeze tomato sauce onto for their lunch.

MAKES 75 PIES Place the tuna in the freezer. Once below 0°

a 13 mm (½ in) plate. Set aside in the refrige
3.5 kg (7 lb 12 oz) boneless, skinless
tuna trim In a large pan set over a medium heat, add
125 g (4 ½ oz) salted butter to foam without browning. Add the onions
3.5 kg (7 lb 12 oz) brown onions, caramelised, approximately 30 minutes. Add
diced and spices and cook for a further 15 minutes
400 g (14 oz) garlic cloves, grated fish gravy.
50 g (1¾ oz) fresh thyme, finely
In a large mixing bowl, season the tuna with
chopped
8 g (¼ oz) crushed black peppercorns Taking small amounts at a time to avoid lum
8 g (¼ oz) crushed white peppercorns ground tuna into the sauce. Once all the tun
8 g (¼ oz) ground nutmeg season well and cook for a further 10 minute
3 g (⅛ oz) ground star anise mix shouldn’t be too loose – there needs to
3.5 litres (118 fl oz/14 cups) Fish and keep the pie juicy but not runny. Refrige
Gravy ( page 249) set. (If your mix hasn’t set for long enough
75 g (2 ¾ oz) plain (all-purpose) flour crimping the pies.)
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) Sour cream pastry
On a clean and cold work surface, lay out th
( page 212), rolled to 4 mm (¼ in)
be lining the base and top of these pies, so c
thickness and chilled
and come up the sides with 1 cm (½ in) of
4 egg yolks, beaten, for egg wash
to cover the top of the pie. For this we use c
measuring 9 cm (3½ in) in diameter and 2.

Once the pastry is cut to size, line the bases

rounds of pastry. Gently push the pastry int
space as possible for the filling. Spoon 100 g
each pie and spread it out to fill the gaps. Pl
directly over the top of the filling and crimp
base layer over the top to create a neat seal.

With a pastry brush, paint the tops with the

Place in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to d

again before baking to create a bronzed finis
for 25–30 minutes.
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 I N D I V I D U A LF I S H P I E

This recipe is an excellentway to use up the trim from any mild-flavoured

we portion fish fillets for retail, we often square off a little towards the tai
fillet. You can collect and skin these trimmed pieces and they can be co
It’s also a great vehicle to carry the offal of fish as well.

MAKES 2 5 PIES Chop the fish trim into 1.5 cm (½ in) bite-size
tray in a single layer. Evenly sprinkle with the
1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) skinless, boneless
combine well. Place the tray of seasoned fish
white fish trim (any white, flaky
to firm up.
and mild variety works well)
8 g (¼ oz) salt The next day, preheat a steam oven to 70° C (
2 litres (68 fl oz/8 cups) brown fish from the fridge and, once the steam oven
fish stock 4–7 minutes until just cooked through. Remo
200 g (7 oz) unsalted butter, diced the refrigerator to cool completely in its juice
into 2 cm (¾ in) cubes
Place the fish stock into a pot over a low heat
200 g (7 oz/1⅓ cups) plain
Take care not to let the stock boil for longer
(all-purpose) flour
filling will end up too thick. For this step, we
pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
at its hottest point.
250 g (9 oz) fresh corn cobs
250 g (9 oz) baby spinach leaves, Meanwhile, place the butter in a saucepan an
picked Once the butter has fully melted, add the flou
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) Sour cream pastry into a roux and stir for 2–3 minutes, or until
( page 212), rolled to 4 mm (¼ in) cooked out. Remove from the heat.
thickness and chilled
As soon as the stock comes to the boil and th
4 egg yolks, beaten, for egg wash
pot of stock off the heat momentarily and gen
salt and cracked black pepper, to taste
whisk to break up the roux and combine well
of roux have been fully incorporated into the
a medium-low heat and continue to whisk un
Continue whisking to avoid scorching the bo
out for a further 5 minutes. Mix in the nutme
cracked black pepper to your taste. Transfer
container or tray, cover with plastic wrap and

Bring a pot of salted water to the boil and bla

5 minutes. Strain the corn from the water and
the kernels from the cob using a sharp knife.
until required.
Now the
add to combine the filling.
corn kernels and theInto the leaves
picked deep con
of
taste and season with salt and pepper if neede
from the fridge and drain away any juices. Ad
and gently combine, taking care not to break
mixture aside.

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On a clean and cold work surface, lay out th
be lining the base and top of these pies, so c
and come up the sides with 1 cm (½ in) of
to cover the top of the pie. For this we use c
measuring 9 cm (3½ in) in diameter and 2.

Once the pastry is cut to size, line the bases

rounds of pastry. Gently push the pastry int
space as possible for the filling. Spoon 120 g
each pie and spread it out to fill the gaps. Pl
directly over the top of the filling and crimp
base layer over the top to create a neat seal.

With a pastry brush, paint the tops with the

Place in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to d

of egg wash to the pastry before baking to c
a 185° C (365° F) oven for 25–30 minutes.
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 E M PA N A D A S

I love these empanadas so much – whether they are cooked from fre
consistent and adored by all. See the recipe as a good ratio of ingredi
played with to suit your own style. From pasties to curry puffs, let this b
pastry and filling recipe.

MAKES 1 2 5 E M PA N A D A S To make the pastry, melt the butter in a sauc

approximately 37° C (100° F). Combine the
PA S T R Y in the centre. Add the water and melted but
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) butter incorporate into the dry ingredients. Knead
3 kg (6 lb 10 oz) plain (all-purpose) pastry is smooth and elastic. Place in the re
flour 4–5 hours to rest, so the flour can properly
3 tablespoons baking powder For the filling, in a large cast-iron frying pa
60 g (2 oz) salt and allow it to come to smoking point over
1.25 litres (42 fl oz/5 cups) water swordfish mince and, using a whisk, break
FILLING
mince quickly with minimal liquid coming
own juice and dry out. Remove each batch
150 ml (7 fl oz) grapeseed oil
into a colander set over a bowl. Heat the pan
1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) skinless, boneless
two batches of the mince, adding another 5
swordfish mince
Set the browned mince aside.
2 red capsicums ( bell peppers), finely
diced, seeds and core removed Wipe the pan clean, set over a medium heat
2 brown onions, peeled and 50 ml (1¾ fl oz) of oil, then sweat off the cap
finely diced approximately 15 minutes, and add the rem
150 g (5 ½ oz) dried currants chilli and salt. Bring to a boil then lower the
1 litre (34 fl oz/4 cups) fish stock reduce by half.
2 teaspoons dried oregano
Add the cooked swordfish mince back to th
30 g (1 oz) sweet paprika
Season to taste with chilli and salt, then allo
6 g (⅛ oz) ground cumin
chilli flakes, to taste Roll the pastry out to 4 mm (¼ in) thick she
salt, to taste floured surface (but not too much flour as t
appearance of the empanada). Cut into circl
pastry cutter.

Place a heaped tablespoon of the cooled filli

Use water to seal the edges shut, pushing ou
the edges with your fingers or use a lightly
together.
Store on
burn in the
the freezer,
pastry. ensuring the empanadas

These empanadas are best cooked from froz

(365° F). Fry until golden brown and the fill
garlic yoghurt or a good squeeze of lemon.

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 H O T - S M O K E DF I S H P I

This is one of two pie recipesin this book, and while the methodsare simi
fish pie.
Smoking the bones of the fish the day before attempting this recipe g
for the pie sauce a well-rounded,smoky, savoury profile. One other point
fish from the heads, tails and collars that don’t often get the full opportu
seasonal fish or vegetablesin place of what’s suggested below.

MAKES 12 LARGE PIES Place the fish trim on a tray in a single layer.
of salt over the whole surface of the fillet and
3.75 kg (8 lb 4 oz) white fish trim,
overnight to firm up.
skinned and boned (a moist, flaky
variety such as blue eye trevalla or Set up a smoker to cold smoke and, once read
cod works well) a minimum of 4 hours, remove the bones and
75 g (2 ¾ oz) salt container along with the bay leaves, thyme sp
1.25 kg (2 lb 12 oz) fish bones (any Cover with the milk and leave in the refrigerat
frames and bones from white,
The next day, set up the smoker again, this ti
clean-flavoured fish work well)
(210° F).
4 fresh bay leaves
6 thyme sprigs Remove the fish trim from the fridge and pat
2 tablespoons black peppercorns, into the hot smoker and smoke until the inter
coarsely cracked (110° F) (the cooking time will depend on you
1 tablespoon cloves, coarsely cracked the smoker and place into the refrigerator to
2.5 litres (85 fl oz/10 cups) full-cream the fillet into bite-sized pieces and set aside.
(whole) milk
Remove the infusing milk from the fridge an
2.5 litres (85 fl oz/10 cups) white
and aromatics. Place the infused milk into a
fish stock
stock and place over a low heat. Slowly heat t
480 g (1 lb 1 oz) unsalted butter, diced
a temperature of approximately 70° C (160° F)
into 2 cm (¾ in) cubes
450 g (1 lb/3 cups) plain (all-purpose) Meanwhile, place 450 g (1 lb) of the butter in
flour medium heat. Once the butter has fully melte
⅛ teaspoon ground cayenne pepper into a roux and then cook for 2–3 minutes, o
⅛ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg cooked out. Remove from the heat.
salt and cracked black pepper, to taste
Once the milk stock has reached temperature,
5 leeks, white part only, split in half
momentarily then gently spoon in the roux.
and well rinsed
combine the roux well into the liquid. Once
625 g (1 lb 6 oz) brown onions, peeled
incorporated, place the pot back over a mediu
and finely diced
until the sauce begins to bubble.
1.25 kg (2 lb 12 oz) green peas, cooked
fresh or defrosted frozen Continue whisking to avoid scorching the bo
3 tablespoons tarragon, picked and out for a further 5 minutes. Mix in the cayenn
finely chopped salt and cracked black pepper to taste. Transfe
3 tablespoons parsley, picked and container or tray, cover the surface with plast
finely chopped and place in the refrigerator to cool.
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) puff pastry, rolled to Slice the washed leeks very finely into half-mo
4 mm (⅛ in) thickness and chilled until tender. Cool the leeks thoroughly post-c
8 egg yolks
Place a small frying pan over a medium heat.
followed by the diced onion and a pinch of s
occasionally, until they are soft and translucen
cooked out. Set aside to cool.

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Now you are ready to combine the filling ingredients. Into the deep container
with the chilled sauce add the leeks, onions, peas, tarragon and parsley.
Combine well, taste and season with salt and pepper if needed. Finally, add in
the cold fish pieces and gently combine, taking care not to break up the fish
too much. Set the mix aside.

On a clean and cold work surface, lay out the pastry to cut it to size. To line
the base and the top of these pies you will need a larger size sheet to cover the
base, come up the sides and have an overhang, and a smaller sheet to cover
the top of the pie. For this recipe we use 12 rectangular 990 ml (33 ½ fl oz)
dishes measuring 17.2 x 13 x 4.3 cm (7 x 5 x 1¾ in).

Once the pastry is cut to size, line the bases of the pie dishes with the larger
sheets of pastry. Gently push the pastry into the edges and corners so there
is as much space as possible to place the filling. Spoon 600 g (1 lb 5 oz) of the
filling into each pie and spread it out evenly. Place the smaller sheet of pastry
directly over the top of the filling. Crimp the overhanging pastry from the
base layer onto the top to create a neat seal.

In a small mixing bowl, whisk the egg yolks to an even consistency and use a
pastry brush to paint the tops, ensuring an even layer. Place in the refrigerator
uncovered for 30 minutes to dry the glaze then brush again with the egg yolk
mixture before baking. Bake in a 190° C (375° F) oven for 30–35 minutes.
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 PÂTÉ EN CROÛTE

I’m always one for a challenge and, in this case, I don’t feel it gets much
en croûte, let alone a pâté en croûte of fish! Fish Butcheryexecutivechef R
classical techniqueand modern thinking has brought this exceptionalslic

MAKES 1 Begin by placing the fish trim in the freezer t

0° C (30° F) before you mince. Meanwhile, pre
FILLING for the filling and set up a meat grinder with
2.5 kg (5 ½ lb) boneless, skinless Once the fish has chilled enough, pass it thro
white fish trim mixing bowl. Combine the mince with the re
75 g (2 ¾ oz) Fish Bacon ( page 174), and mix well. Taste and season with sea salt
diced into 5 mm (¼ in) cubes refrigerator.
250 g (9 oz) Cured Fish Fat ( page
250), diced into 5 mm (¼ in) cubes
To make the pastry, place the flour and salt in
75 g (2 ¾ oz) cured hearts, spleens,
processor. Melt the butter gently in a small sa
kidneys, livers (optional)
the water and immediately turn up to the hig
300 g (10 ½ oz) brown onions, peeled
come to a boil quickly so it doesn’t evaporate
and finely diced Remove the hot butter and water as soon as
25 g (1 oz) garlic cloves, peeled and the Robot-Coupe running, slowly pour into
finely chopped processing for another couple of seconds unt
10 g (¼ oz) thyme, picked and finely into a ball, then tip it out onto a clean bench.
chopped 2–3 minutes. Cover the dough with plastic w
10 g (¼ oz) rosemary, picked and 5 minutes to cool only slightly.
finely chopped
10 g (¼ oz) finely ground white
Once the dough has briefly rested, place it on
roll it out to a large sheet 7 mm (¼ in) in thic
pepper
25 ml (¾ fl oz) brandy
pastry into pieces to fit into the size of your m
angular pâte en croûte mould that measures 3
75 g (2 ¾ oz) toasted pistachios
12 g (¼ oz) cure #1
From your rolled pastry, cut the following pie
the base and the two long sides of the mould,
sea salt, to taste
(1 in) overhang; 2 x small rectangles to line t
PA S T R Y a 2.5 cm (1 in) overhang; 1 x long rectangle c
860 g (1 lb 14 oz) plain (all-purpose) for the top; and, from the trim, any decorative
flour, plus extra for dusting long rectangle for the top, punch out three 1.
22 g (¾ oz) fine sea salt the steam to escape while cooking.
300 g (10 ½ oz) unsalted butter, diced
Once the pastry has been cut, you are ready
into 1.5 cm (½ in) cubes
because the pastry becomes less pliable the m
330 ml (11 fl oz) water
brush the mould with a neutral-flavoured oil
12 egg yolks, beaten, for egg wash
 across the base and the longer sides, gently p
J E L LY corners and edges of the mould. With the yol
300 ml (10 fl oz) port then press in the two smaller rectangles to lin
3 thyme sprigs, washed Remove your filling from the fridge and begin
3 rosemary sprigs, washed mould. Fill the mould little by little, making
1 teaspoon white peppercorns, and being gentle so as not to damage the past
cracked been packed into the pastry, cover with the t
8 g (¼ oz) titanium-grade gelatine
leaves
Brush the edges of this top pastry with egg yo
ice-cold water, for soaking
overhanging pastry, ensuring the filling is com
as a glue to stick on any decorative pieces you

With a pastry brush, paint the top with a thin

avoiding any thick clumping, then place in th
process until the pâté en croûte is glazed with
yolks, placing in the refrigerator for approxim
glazes to dry before layering on the next.

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Preheat a combination steam and convection

Once the final glaze on your pâté en croûte

to lightly score the pastry lid as desired; this
pâté as well as allowing the glaze some room
Using a folded piece of foil, fashion three sm
in length and as wide in diameter as the pun
them into the holes to assist the steam to es

Place the pâté en croûte on a baking tray an

Cook until a skewer inserted into the centre

warm. Keep a close eye on it to ensure the p
colour without overcooking the filling. (You
temperature to speed up the caramelisation
to finishing before you have achieved the co
process will take 20–30 minutes, depending
your mould.

Once cooked, remove the pâté from the ove

temperature, then transfer to the refrigerator
important to allow the pâté en croûte time
filling to shrink and set, creating gaps for th

The next day, prepare the jelly. Place the por

cracked white peppercorns into a saucepan,
and bring to a boil. Allow the alcohol to coo
to reduce by half.

Meanwhile, soak the gelatine leaves in the i

fully softened.

Once the port reduction is ready, strain off

Squeeze out the excess water from the soften
the hot reduction and stir to dissolve fully.
are no clumps of undissolved gelatine.

Pour into a small spouted jug and set the jel

temperature.

Remove the chilled pâté en croûte from the

funnels, slowly begin to pour in the liquid j
will need differs each time, so ensure you p
overflow over the top.

Allow it to sit at room temperature for a fur

might take time to find its way into all the g
that all thethe
full when gaps have been
chimneys are completely
visibly full filled
of jel

Once you are satisfied with the level of jelly,

and allow to set for a minimum of 3 hours.
mould onto a cutting board and slice with a

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 TUNA WELLINGTON

The tuna wellington was a much-lovedrecipe that we developed during

2020. Having demonstratedits technical challenges on MasterChefAustr
very proud of and one that regularly appears on both the menu at Saint P
offering at Fish Butchery.

MAKES 2 SE RV E S For the mushroom duxelles, preheat the oven

break the mushrooms by hand into quarters.
1 x 300 g (10 ½ oz) tuna loin,
approximately 12 x 5 x 5 cm Place 100 g (3½ oz) of the ghee into each of t
(4 ¾ x 2 x 2 in) the oven to preheat. After 3–4 minutes, when
salt and pepper, to taste mushrooms to the trays and season well with
3 egg yolks, beaten, for egg wash black pepper. Roast the mushrooms until wel
approximately 10–15 minutes, then drain in
MUSHROOM DUXELLES

1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) portobello mushrooms

In a heavy-based frying pan, heat the remaini
300 g (10 ½ oz) ghee
a light haze over a medium heat. Add the oni
3 brown onions, finely diced
for 5–6 minutes until the onions and garlic b
1 head of garlic, peeled and grated Add the mushrooms to the frying pan and co
1 bunch of thyme, picked all the juices have reduced and the onions an
salt flakes and freshly cracked black approximately 10 minutes. Be careful at this
pepper, to taste to burn.
CREPES Remove from the heat and, using a perforated
75 g (2 ¾ oz) butter further, finely chop the hot mushrooms in a
60 g (2 oz) plain (all-purpose) flour Spread onto a tray and chill.
60 g (2 oz) buckwheat flour
For the crepes, melt the butter in a saucepan
5 g (⅛ oz) salt
Sift together the plain flour, buckwheat flour
2 eggs
bowl. In a clean bowl, crack the eggs and ligh
300 ml (10 fl oz) hoppy beer
even liquid. Make a well in the flour and add
S O U R C R E A M PA S T R Y the butter, using a whisk to combine each liq
400 g (14 oz) plain (all-purpose) flour,
should be free of any lumps. Leave to rest for
plus extra for dusting before cooking.
10 g (¼ oz) fine salt Lightly grease a cast-iron pan with a splash of neu
280 g (10 oz) cold butter or canola) and heat over a medium flame. W
200 g (7 oz) sour cream layer of the batter and swirl around until the
20 g (¾ oz) ice-cold water When the crepe is lightly toasted on the botto
briefly for 20 seconds until the batter is cooke
greased baking paper and repeat for a second
For the sour cream pastry, pulse the flour, sal
processor, being careful not to blend too far
this pastry are important for its final texture.
water to the food processor and pulse again.
crumbly but come together in your hand. Wo
bench till the dough just comes together, no
to see the pieces of butter and ripples of sour
15 minutes before using.

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Construction

Roll the pastry out on a lightly floured work

sheet approximately 28 cm (11 in) wide and
leave to rest on a baking tray in the refrigerat

Line a bench with plastic wrap twice the siz

out on it, slightly overlapping each other go
mushroom duxelles out on the crepes to 5 m
a little longer than the length of the tuna.

Season the tuna loin well with salt and pepp

crepes and lift the bottom crepe over the tu
the tuna over so it’s enclosed in the duxelles
excess, trim the crepes.) Fold down the end
tightly with the plastic wrap to form a cylind
firmly in a knot and place in the fridge to ch

Place the pastry on a bench and brush with

tuna and work out where you need to place
minimal overhang, leaving 5 cm (2 in) at ea
tuna until it’s wrapped just once and cut alo
of extra pastry and pressing together so the

This seam is your base, so put it on the botto

end, then fold the ends in as if you were wra

Place the wellington on a baking paper–lined

wash, then leave in the fridge for 10 minutes

Preheat the oven to 200° C (390° F) then bak

temperature should be approximately 25° C
oven. Leave to rest for 5 minutes before carv
approximately 38° C (105° F). Using a sharp
from the wellington and serve immediately.
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 SCHNITZELS

Who doesn’t love a good schnitty? Or, at the very least, something
perfection. Crumbing any fish fillet removes a layer of anxiety from th
home. There is somethingabout the ability of a crumbed coating to insu
the harshness and oftentimesunforgivingnature of direct contact with a
Mix up the species of fish you crumb and the seasoningsyou add to th

MAKES 2 SCHNITZELS Take a sharp knife and, working on a steep

from the fillet of fish. (By cutting the fish on
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) boneless fish fillet,
surface area, so the schnitzel will cook far m
skin on
be approximately 2 cm (¾ in) thick.
2 large eggs
50 g (1¾ oz) good-quality parmesan Place the eggs in a shallow bowl and whisk
cheese, finely grated
Add the parmesan, oregano and chilli to the
50 g (1¾ oz) dried oregano
paprika to the flour. Tip the flour and bread
1 teaspoon dried chilli flakes
trays ready to crumb the fish.
180 g (6 ½ oz/3 cups) white panko
breadcrumbs Dip a fish medallion first into the flour to c
250 g (9 oz/1⅔ cups) plain (all- excess, then dip it into the egg mixture, allo
purpose) flour drip away.
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
Lastly, coat with the breadcrumbs, pushing
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
stick evenly from edge to edge. Scatter over
(optional)
75 g (3 ½ oz) ghee Melt the ghee in a large cast-iron frying pan ov
sea salt flakes and freshly cracked fillets skin side down to the pan and cook fo
black pepper each side, keeping the pan moving to swirl
turning it over halfway through cooking un
both sides. Season liberally with salt and pe
with paper towel to rest before serving.
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 FISH FINGERS

I grew up eating fish fingers from a box, not having any idea where t
they were from – and let’s be honest, when you’re six years old, these are
yourself. However now, as a father of four, I want to introduce the idea o
from and from what sort of fish or animal it was. This knowledge empo
true value of the product while having greater confidencethat this is som
children. It might be difficult to sell a fish head over the counter, but app
meat away from the bones and you have a product that is a wonderful alt
grew up eating.

MAKES 7 0 – 8 0 FISH FINGERS To make the mix for the fish fingers, ensure y
picked fish head and collar meat (see page 60)
3 kg (6 lb 10 oz) picked head and
ground pepper and ground fennel seeds.
collar meat ( preferably a gelatine-
and fat-rich fish like cod, monkfish Use a large sheet of plastic wrap to line a 53 x
or coral trout) baking tray. Ensure you have a little bit of exc
50 g (1¾ oz) salt short edges as this will help you remove the s
15 g (½ oz) ground black pepper
Tip the seasoned head and collar meat into t
10 g (¼ oz) ground fennel seeds
evenly, smoothing any bumps and pressing o
500 g (1 lb 2 oz/3⅓ cups) plain
another sheet of plastic wrap and use an iden
(all-purpose) flour
down. Fill this tray with something heavy to
12 eggs, beaten
and place the whole thing into the refrigerator
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) panko breadcrumbs
or until completely firm and set.

Once set, remove the weighted tray and peel

from the set mixture. Invert the whole tray o
the overhanging plastic, gently pull the mixtu
onto the board.

Once it has come loose, remove the tray and

Using a clean, sharp knife, cut the slab into th

end of the tray, then portion into 2 cm (¾ in)
with fingers approximately 10 x 2 x 2.5 cm (4
off the edges first if you prefer all the fingers
(this trim can be utilised as head meat in oth
on page 221).

Set up a crumbing station by arranging the fl

in order, in three wide-surfaced, shallow cont
Crumb the fish fingers by dipping them first
and lastly into the breadcrumbs. Gently press
fingers to help them adhere to the egg, ensuri
finished fish fingers onto a tray and refrigerate
To cook, the fish fingers can either be shallow
set over a medium heat, deep-fried at 180° C
190° C (375° F) oven for approximately 20 min

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 FISHCAKES

Time to give the humble fishcake the attention it deserves! So much fish
from the heads, collars, tail and meat that is left on the bone after filletin
this fish find a home. There are few better vehicles for moving this t
beautiful herbs, potatoes and breadcrumbs. Once assembled, these fish
everyone from young to old will enjoy them. Investing time and la
and using up the trim is not only economicallysensible but also ethicall

MAKES 3 0 FISHCAKES Preheat a combination steam and convection

2.5 kg (5 ½ lb) potatoes (a floury Place the cleaned whole potatoes in a single
variety such as sebago or kestral and steam in the preheated oven until tende
works well) 30 minutes by piercing with a paring knife;
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil on the potatoes you are using. Once cooked,
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) brown onions, peeled towel (dish towel) and paring knife to handl
and finely diced skin. Push the skinless potatoes through a p
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) picked head and collar bowl and set aside.
meat ( page 60)
Place a small frying pan over a medium hea
3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf
the diced onion and a pinch of salt. Sweat th
( Italian) parsley leaves
until soft and translucent and any excess mo
3 tablespoons finely chopped dill
cooked onions on top of the mashed potatoe
leaves
3 tablespoons finely snipped chives Once the potatoes and onions have cooled
zest of 3 lemons cooked meat from the head and collars to t
1 tablespoon ground fennel seeds herbs, lemon zest and ground fennel seeds.
500 g (1 lb 2 oz/3⅓ cups) plain
Wearing gloves, use your hands to combine
(all-purpose) flour
break up and evenly disperse any flakes of m
12 eggs, beaten
while in refrigeration. Taste the mixture and
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) panko breadcrumbs
your preference.
salt and pepper, to taste
Once you are happy with the taste of your fi
for crumbing. With a weighing scale and gl
up and weigh out into 140 g (5 oz) portions.
approximately 9 cm (3½ in) in diameter and
the fishcakes on trays, cover and refrigerate
firm up.

Set up a crumbing station by arranging the

order, in three wide-surfaced, shallow conta
Remove the fishcakes from the fridge and d
into the eggs and lastly into the breadcrumbs
into the fishcake to help them adhere to the
Arrange the finished fishcakes onto a tray a
The fishcakes can either be shallow-fried in gh
a medium heat, deep-fried at 180° C (360° F
(375° F) oven for approximately 35 minutes,

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 T U N A PAT T I E S

I grew up eating tuna rissoles made from canned tuna, mashed potatoe
are a little different.
Tuna patties made from ground tuna trim are an integral part o
cheeseburger that we serve at Fish Butchery and Charcoal Fish. The amb
showcase the delicate nuances of the tuna but to step into the idea that al
compromisedpieces of the fish can be as meaty as beef.
This recipe can be extended to tuna meatballs,koftas or even meatloaf

MAKES 7 5 PA T T I E S Set up a commercial meat grinder with a 13

in the freezer. Once below 0° C (30° F), mince
5 kg (11 lb) boneless, skinless
tuna trim Combine the ground tuna with all of the rem
25 g (1 oz) table salt mixing bowl. Form a small patty and cook it
15 g (½ oz) ground black pepper seasoning.
8 g (¼ oz) ground fennel seeds
Lay two sheets of plastic wrap approximately
45 g (1½ oz/1½ packed cups finely
a bench and place a 2.5 kg (5½ lb) log of the
chopped parsley leaves
each leaving about 5 cm (2 in) of space at eac
the plastic wrap by holding the ends and rolli
long. Tie the plastic off at both ends with a k
and turn every hour or so until set so the resu
one side.

Using a sharp knife, slice the frozen logs into

approximately 1.5 cm (½ in) thick. The pattie
over a charcoal grill or on a gas barbecue to a
not drying out the fish. Brush first with a littl
lightly with salt. Ensure the grill is on high or
together to create a high heat. Grill for about
ensure they are well caramelised to generate
Serve on burger buns with all your favourite
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SNACKS AND

SUNDRIES
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 R O E T O C AV I A R

Sturgeon caviar is regarded as one of the most desirable and luxurious f

this recipe I attempt to bring the same desirabilityto the roe of a fish tha
this recipe on the roe of Murray cod, John Dory, mirror dory, blue eye
speciesI achieveda firm poppingtextureon the eggs along with a moreis
you want another spoonful.

MAKES 10 0 G (3 ½ OZ) Start by cutting the membrane of the roe sa

the same knife, scrape the eggs out of the m
2 whole fresh fish roe (approximately
of ice-cold water.
150–200 g (5 ½ – 7 oz) each to yield
130 g (4 ½ oz) scraped, cleaned Using a whisk, separate the eggs from the lo
eggs) within the roe – what attaches itself to the w
6 g (⅛ oz) table salt, depending on take several attempts and it will feel like you
the roe there is a considerable amount of membrane
are loose and completely separated, drain th
the water.

Transfer the eggs to a cloth or towel to drain

change these a few times. Once dried, place
stir together. Stand for 10 minutes to allow

Drain the roe once more and leave the eggs

refrigerator for a minimum of 4–5 hours.

Once the eggs reach a consistency that is fir

the eggs is noticeably more refined than bef
in a tin or airtight container. Serve generousl
caviar would be used.
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 CURED ROE

This is not technically a bottarga and nor is it trying to be – this is our

lightly smoked and left with some chewiness and waxiness, which I absol
If you don’t enjoy this texture, dry the roe further for one that is firm en
over dishes.

MAKES 7 5 0 G (1 LB 11 OZ) To cure the roe, stir together a curing mix of

three-parts salt in a mixing bowl.
100 g (3 ½ oz) light brown sugar
300 g (10 ½ oz) fine salt Toss the roe gently (so as not to break it) with
1 large, firm and intact roe sac from 2 g (⅛ oz) of cure #2 for every 1 kg (2 lb 3 oz
a large fish such as hapuka or blue coated as you would coat something in bread
eye trevalla a vacuum-pack bag with any loose curing mi
cure #2 machine. Refrigerate for at least 1 week, turni

Once the roe has firmed up significantly, it is

the vacuum bag and wipe off any excess surfa
cold smoke for 2 hours. Remove from the sm
over a baking tray and refrigerate uncovered

Once chilled, use butcher’s twine to tie around

a loop and hang on a butcher’s hook in a fan-
3 weeks to firm up.

After 3 weeks, the roe should be firm to the t

spring. This will give the roe a nice waxiness
dry or even crumbly. Slice the roe thinly and
olive oil, like an anchovy.
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 M AW C R A C K L I N G

This is a fantastic method that brings textural life to an otherwise challe

a pork crackling that’s best enjoyed with a beer and plenty of salt.

MAKES 1 LARGE CRACKLING Cut the maw down one side, then lay out fla
carefully scrape away any imperfections, the
100 g (3 ½ oz) fish maw
cover with cold water. Bring to the boil, then
grapeseed, canola or cottonseed oil,
simmer and cook for 30 minutes, or until th
for deep-frying
almost jelly-like in consistency.
sea salt flakes
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to its lowest se
(140–160°F). Line a baking tray with baking

Remove the maw from the liquid with a slot

on the prepared tray. Transfer the tray to th
until completely dry, up to 5 hours. At this
indefinitely in an airtight container for later

To make the maw crackling, half-fill a large

and heat over a medium–high heat to 185–190°C
pair of tongs, very carefully place the dried
seconds until the skin has puffed up and tri
Quickly remove from the oil and drain on a

Season liberally with salt then serve as a sna

garnish a dish of raw fish for additional text
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 S M O K E DM I L T

Milt (aka fish sperm) can provoke much hesitation in Western cookery
appearance.However,if youstartto seeit moreas meatoffal, likebrainsor
open up. This method is assistive as it again preserves the offal, meanin
for it to be consumed. The curing, smoking and drying are all critica
delicious outcome.
My favourite way to work with this product is to pan-fry slices of the
it with the fish that it was from or on toast, or even diced and added
terrine recipes.

MAKES 1 For the milt cure, add all ingredients to a cl

combine. Once combined, keep in a clean,
1 large, firm and intact milt sac from
a large fish such as hapuka or blue Weigh the milt sac and work out the amount
eye trevalla
Coat the milt sac evenly in the cure mix as
CURE breadcrumbs. Place uncovered on a clean s
(use 130 g (4 ½ oz) per kilogram for at least 2 days, depending on its size, tur
(2 lb 3 oz) of milt)
Once the milt has firmed and it has dropped
250 g (9 oz) caster (superfine) sugar smoke. Remove from the cure and wipe off
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) table salt
75 g (2 ¾ oz) ground cumin
In a smoker, cold smoke the milt sac for 2 h
a perforated tray and allow to dry in a refrig
25 g (1 oz) cure #1
75 g (2 ¾ oz) ground black pepper
The ideal texture of the smoked milt will be
around the outside with a firm but buttery
75 g (2 ¾ oz) ground coriander seeds
75 g (2 ¾ oz) ground fennel seeds
can be dried out completely and then groun
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 SALT AND VINEGAR FI

At Saint Peter, I always announce this as one of my favourite dishes to eat

brine over the pickled fish and have some warm sourdough and cultured
wonderfulmethodfor any fish: just adjust the salting and vinegartimes ba
this exampleis a great starting point. Only leaving it in the vinegar briefly
the centre of the fillet, which gives an amazing final texture that doesn’t ta

MAKES 4 To pickle the mackerel fillets, leave the pin bo

skin and flesh sides evenly with the salt, then
4 very fresh blue mackerel fillets,
uncovered, for 1½ hours.
ribs removed, tail intact
(about 80 g/2¾ oz each) Once that time has passed, rinse the salt from
80 g (2 ¾ oz/⅔ cup) sea salt flakes of the vinegar. Submerge the vinegar-rinsed fish
250 ml (8 ½ fl oz/1 cup) champagne vinegar and leave to pickle for 20–25 minutes
vinegar
Remove the pickled mackerel, reserving the
make. Remove the pin bones from the fish at

Turn the fish onto the flesh side so the skin i

pliers or tweezers, grab onto the corner of the
would have been and pull the skin gently off
silver skin.

Slice the mackerel about 5 mm (¼ in) thick,

the tail.

Assemble a mackerel across each of four serv

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 O L I V E O I L– C O O K E D T U

I enjoycookingin olive oil as it bringssuch a uniquetextureand flavourt

I find canned tuna to often be far too dry and lacking in seasoning,so u
of tuna in this way transforms it into something remarkable for salad
selected(or, rather, the cut that was constantlypushedaside) is the sinew
the dorsal fins of the fish. However, the tougher cut from the tail end of
belly will also give a great result.
Have a play around with different flavours to find somethingyou real

SERVES 4 For the tuna, use a sharp knife to cut the len

1 skinless tuna chain cut, about Place the tuna chain on a tray, season liberal
1.5–3 kg (3 lb 5 oz–6 lb 10 oz) zest, broken dried chillies, bay leaf and the
table salt Leave uncovered in the refrigerator for appr
peeled zest of 1 lemon
After this time has passed, place the seasone
2 dried red chillies
with a wire rack set inside it. Pour over the
1 fresh bay leaf
a square of baking paper.
1 bunch of rosemary
1.5 litres (51 fl oz/6 cups) extra-virgin Place in a low oven set to 65° C (150° F) and
olive oil internal temperature of 58° C (135° F).

Remove the tray from the oven and keep th

until it is completely cooled.

Transfer to the refrigerator once cooled, kee

flavour from the fragrant oil. The tuna can
with the oil and stored in vacuum-pack bag
in a sterile glass jar in the refrigerator.

Use this cooked tuna through salads, on toa

tonnato sauce.
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 GARFISHSTICKS

These skewers are a thought-provoking and visually striking preparatio

many other interpretations.As a consumer, knowing these are boneless
enjoy this beautiful fish straight off the skewer.
While they can be marinatedor further vegetablesadded to the skewer
about the fish in this simplepreparation.And this is one of my favourited
it away as it works on everything!

MAKES 6 Lay a butterflied garfish on a cutting board w

to the right. Make a cut just behind the head
6 boneless, butterflied garfish
together. Cut the collars off the head and set
60 ml (2 fl oz/¼ cup) grapeseed oil
stock. Keep the head to one side ready for ass
sea salt flakes
6 metal or soaked bamboo skewers Cut index finger–width squares of the butterflied fille
tail. You will have approximately six or seven stacked
DRESSING
finished, depending on the size of the fish.
50 g (1¾ oz) achiote paste (available
from a Mexican grocer)
Taking a sharp skewer, thread the tail on and
250 g (9 oz/1 cup) unsalted butter Then add each stacked square of fillet to the
80 ml (2 ¾ fl oz) sherry vinegar were cut, finishing with the head right at the
25 ml (1 fl oz) mushroom soy sauce the other garfish.

Chill the skewers for 10–15 minutes to cool t

worked with it as it can take time to thread th

While you are waiting, add the achiote to a fo

crumb. Add to the butter in a large saucepan
When the butter is bubbling, whisk the achio
the base of the pan or become lumpy.

After 7–8 minutes, the milk solids in the butt

brown colour and have a toasted hazelnut–like
and add the sherry vinegar, being careful that
pan has settled, add the mushroom soy and k
the achiote – the coarse crumble is chewy an

Preheat a charcoal or gas grill.

Brush the skewers with a little grapeseed oil

flakes. Place the skewers over a medium heat
any colour, allow the smoke from the coals to
garfish. (This will take approximately 4–5 min
the coals – you can always cook a little more
garfish as they don’t like too much heat.) Spo
over the garfish and serve immediately.

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 T U N A B O L O G N E S E( R A

While it’s commonto see meat-basedragus appearingon tables all over t

favourite, spag bol, I truly hope that inside the next five years, ground
available to buy over the counter in both markets and stores so this m
makeover. This doesn’t mean taking more tuna out of the water – it me
scrap of all the fish that are caught is consumed before the next fish is t
of this ragu to only pasta – this is also a great addition to mashed potato
a toasted sandwich.

MAKES 5 KG ( 11 LB) Place the tuna in the freezer. Once below 0°

a 2 mm (⅛ in) plate. Keep in the refrigerator
1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) boneless, skinless
tuna trim Combine all the chopped vegetables and ga
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) brown onions, In batches, pulse the vegetables together in
peeled and chopped processor to finely chop.
750 g (1 lb 11 oz) carrots, peeled
In a large pan set over a high heat, add 150
and chopped
and allow it to begin to smoke. Add half the
4 celery stalks, tops removed,
a whisk to break it apart so that all the minc
chopped
the mince quickly with minimal liquid com
75 g (2 ¾ oz) garlic cloves, peeled
achieved, so that the mince doesn’t boil in i
and minced
Remove the mince and set aside in a colande
400 ml (12 fl oz) grapeseed oil
with a further 150 ml (5 fl oz) of grapeseed
300 ml (10 fl oz) white wine
180 g (6 ½ oz) jar of tomato paste Using the same pan, add the remaining 100
(concentrated puree) allow the pan to reach a light haze over a m
2.5 kg (5 ½ lb) tinned crushed to the hot pan and sweat for approximately
tomatoes a healthy pinch of salt. Cook until the vegeta
1 fresh bay leaf moisture has left the pan and the oil begins
pinch of freshly grated nutmeg add the white wine to deglaze the pan and u
1.5 litres (51 fl oz/6 cups) water that has stuck to the base of the pan Add th
salt and pepper, to taste 3 minutes.

Return the mince to the pan along with the

and water. Bring to a boil, then turn down t
and cook out for 2½ hours until the tuna is
sauce to have thickened and reduced well, t
a dark red and the oil to be starting to emerg
bolognese can be stored in either the refrige
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 FISH CONSOMMÉ

There are more modern ways of producing a fish consommé with differ
methods, however clarifyinga stock with a raft is a skill I’m glad I acquire
the bones from coral trout due to its high gelatine content and refined,
freezes very well.

MAKES 2 LITRES Preheat an oven to 190° C (375° F).

(6 8 F L OZ /8 CUPS)
To make the fish stock, start by spreading the
evenly across baking trays. Place trays in the
STOCK
golden brown all over. The heads and collars
4 fish frames
there will be considerably more meat on thes
4 fish heads, gills and eyes removed
to colour evenly.
8 fish collars
200 g (7 oz) salted butter Set the roasted bones aside until required.
250 g (9 oz) French shallots, peeled In a large, heavy-based saucepan, melt the bu
and diced it begins to bubble. Add the shallots, celery, g
200 g (7 oz) celery stalks, diced
cook until tender, about 20 minutes. Add the
75 g (2 ¾ oz) whole garlic cloves down to a glaze, about another 10 minutes. A
½ bunch of thyme
mushrooms, dried roe, corn cobs and the roa
2 rosemary sprigs a boil, then reduce to a simmer over a medium
300 ml (10 fl oz) champagne vinegar
4 litres (135 fl oz/16 cups) water
Add the mussels, oysters and kombu to the s
4 litres (135 fl oz/16 cups) dashi to boil again and then remove from the heat
200 g (7 oz) dried shiitake Strain the stock into a clean container and ch
mushrooms For the raft, blend the white fish in a food pro
100 g (3 ½ oz) dried fish roe or Remove to chill in the refrigerator then add
dried anchovy processor and blend to a coarse pulp. Mix the
4 corn cobs, husks stripped together and set aside.
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) mussels in shell
1 dozen oysters, shucked and juices
In a large mixing bowl, whisk the egg whites
reserved
blended fish and vegetables, then season this
25 g (1 oz) dried kombu
of salt.
salt, to taste Decant the fish stock into a large saucepan. W
stock and then place it over a low heat. As th
RAFT
occasionally stir the raft gently to stop it stick
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) white fish
objective is for the raft to set across the top o
½ carrot, coarsely cut
impurities out of the stock, leaving behind a
1 celery stalk, coarsely cut
Once the stock reaches a low simmer, cook it
½ brown onion, coarsely cut will reduce the stock by a third.
10 egg whites
pinch of salt Place a fine sieve lined with cheesecloth or m
pass the stock through carefully, ensuring the
and any impurities are held in the sieve. This
ladle as opposed to tipping the whole stock i
consommé. If you notice any oil or impurities
with a paper towel placed on the surface.

The consommé is best served as a soup or can

a unique textural addition to raw fish or vege

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 FISH JUS

While the Fish Gravy (see page 249) is thicker and a little more aligned
a far more refined finish that will act as the mother sauce for a whole list
to make. From diane to mushroomto pepper sauce, nothing is off limits

MAKES ABOUT 2 2 5 M L (7 ½ F L OZ) Place the fish bones and trim in a wide, shal
in one layer and brown over a medium-high
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) clean white fish bones
The aim is to scrape up the sediment that se
and trim (from the butchery of
allowing all the fat to render and the trim to
a whole fish)
tip everything into a colander over a bowl a
10 French shallots, finely sliced
reserving the fat for later.
6 garlic cloves, finely sliced
300 ml (10 fl oz) white wine Return the solids to the same pan, add the
200 ml (7 fl oz) white-wine vinegar 10 minutes, or until lightly coloured and sta
5 fresh bay leaves wine, vinegar, bay leaves, juniper berries, pe
20 g (¾ oz) juniper berries cook, stirring often, for 10 minutes, or until
20 g (¾ oz) whole black peppercorns consistency. Add the soy sauce and stock an
20 g (¾ oz) whole white peppercorns heat and simmer very gently, turning the fis
1 bunch of thyme or until thickened and reduced.
80 ml (2 ½ fl oz/⅓ cup) dark soy sauce
Strain through a sieve, pressing hard on the
600 ml (20 ½ fl oz) brown fish stock
a second clean sieve into a fresh pot and lea
fat separates from the sauce. Pass the warm
sieve, then pour over the sauce. Warm the s
heat it through without boiling. The jus is n
alongside grilled fish or vegetables. It can al
or frozen in a clean plastic container.
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 R E N D E R E DF I S H F A T

There are a huge numberof fish speciesthat carry a substantialamountof v

so keep your eye out when gutting a fish. This rendered fat is fantastic for
from emulsion sauces, roasting potatoes or fish, or even in making choco
To render fish fat, place it in a saucepan and gently melt over a low heat; it should ta
liquefy. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve to remove any impurities. Pour into airtight container
in the fridge for up to 2 weeks, or in the freezer for up to 2 months.
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 F I S H G R AV Y

This fish gravy is thick, rich and glossy and a brilliant alternativeto that

MAKES ABOUT 250 ML Preheat an oven to 200° C (390° F). Lay out t
(8 ½ F L OZ/ 1 CUP) on a baking tray. Roast until well caramelised
the course of 30–35 minutes.
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) fish frames, including
heads, fins and cartilage ( gills and In a large pan, heat the ghee over a high hea
organs removed) pan, then add the onions and garlic. Stir so
100 g (3 ½ oz) ghee and begin to soften evenly, then reduce the
6 large brown onions, finely sliced until they begin to toast lightly around the
6 garlic cloves, sliced Add the bay leaf, thyme, fresh fish skin and
1 fresh bay leaf and cook for a further 10 minutes until the
15 thyme sprigs then deglaze the pan with the wine and vine
200 g (7 oz) fresh fish skin until reduced to a syrup, approximately 15
300 ml (10 fl oz) white wine and dark soy followed by the fish stock, then
2 ½ tablespoons sherry vinegar for 20–25 minutes, or until reduced by half.
1 teaspoon Vegemite
Transfer batches of the contents from the p
1 teaspoon dark soy sauce
to a thickish, coarse sauce. Pass each batch
750 ml (25 ½ fl oz/3 cups) brown
the solids, then taste and adjust the seasonin
fish stock
need further reduction.
sea salt flakes and freshly cracked
black pepper To check the viscosity of the reduced sauce,
to see how thick it is when it cools. If it is to
and simmer for a further 5 minutes, or until
lightly coat the back of a spoon. It is now re
in an airtight container in the fridge for up
to 1 month.
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 C U R E D F I S H F AT

To say that fish fat is a linchpin throughout this craft section of the book is
Fish fat has been a profound discovery for me in further advancing and
style items.
The fat used in this recipe is cut from a Murray cod. We have found that th
found within the cavity of aquaculture species that are fed more than a w
wild fish in peak condition.
Being acutely aware of and looking out for this part of a fish will give you th
and salting enough of it down to start putting it to work.

MAKES 1 KG ( 2 LB 3 O Z ) Toast the black pepper and fennel seeds separ

a mortar and pestle. Sift the spices, keeping t
10 g (¼ oz) whole black peppercorns
powder aside for another application.
5 g (⅛ oz) whole fennel seeds
90 g (3 oz) table salt Combine the spices with the salt, sugar and r
30 g (1 oz) caster (superfine) sugar across the fat until completely covered. Place
2 tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves, and refrigerate in the cure for 5 days. After th
finely chopped excess liquid from the container and brush o
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) fresh fish fat, trimmed
If you intend to utilise this fat for charcuterie-b
in a sealed container in the freezer until need
applications that extend to immediate consum
muslin (cheesecloth) and hang on hooks in a
has dried and is firm to touch, or alternatively
rack and allow to dry in the refrigerator for a
a texture that is simple to slice.
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 F I S H - E Y EI C E C R E A M

When you eat ‘normal’ice cream made with eggs, do you ever ask yourse
chicken? This ice cream is in absolutely no way fishy in its taste or textu
the vitreous humour of a fish can behave in a similar way to an egg in m
The fish eyes must be incrediblyfresh and from a known supplier,and
on the fish. This will ensure the sanitary condition of the eye.

MAKES 1 LITRE (3 4 F L OZ /4 CUPS) Start by removing the eyes and setting on a

a cut in the back of an eye. The liquid that w
4–6 large fish eyes (or more smaller
humour; discard this. Carefully pull out the
eyes) to yield 4 g (⅛ oz) of vitreous
to that will be a clear gel-like sac which is th
humour
simply be snipped off the pupil and set aside
425 g (15 oz) full-cream (whole) milk
of the eye can be used in another application
12 g (¼ oz) tapioca flour
from the remaining eyes until you have 4 g
200 g (7 oz) overcooked steamed
white rice In a saucepan over a medium heat, whisk to
730 g (1 lb 10 oz) natural yoghurt vitreous humours. Bring the mixture to a b
5 g (⅛ oz) fine salt low and continue to whisk for approximately
110 g (4 oz) dextrose thickens and the consistency becomes very
60 g (2 oz) caster (superfine) sugar or white sauce.

Place the remaining ingredients in a large b

mixture on top.

In small batches, blend the custard in a jug

Once all blended, strain through a fine sieve
over a second bowl of ice water until comple

This mix can now either be churned in a co

machine, or ideally in a Pacojet. Follow the
equipment.

Serve the ice cream with your favourite con

can be added to this recipe to suit any palate
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 C H R I S T M A SP U D D I N

This is a conventionalChristmaspudding,full of everythingyou would ex

one special addition. One year I had some cured fish fat in the kitchen an
animal’s suet in the mix, why not fish? Merry Fishmas.
You will need a 1.7-litre (57 fl oz) pudding basin with a lid.

MAKES 1 LARGE PUDDING Add all the dried fruits together with the alco
a minimum of 24 hours but up to a week to d
150 g (5 ½ oz) sultanas
175 g (6 oz) raisins When the fruits have had their steeping time,
175 g (6 oz) prunes, chopped to come halfway up your pudding basin or h
310 g (11 oz) dried currants steamer, and butter your pudding basin and
75 g (2 ¾ oz) mixed peel, diced
In a large mixing bowl, combine all the remai
125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) brandy
macerated fruits by simply stirring it together
125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) rum
the mixture into the prepared pudding basin,
125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) Guinness
put on the lid. Crimp a square of aluminium
200 g (7 oz) Cured Fish Fat ( page
is watertight.
250), grated from frozen
120 g (4 ½ oz) self-raising flour Put the basin in the pot of boiling water or in
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) dark brown sugar and steam for 5 hours, checking every now a
320 g (11 ½ oz/4 cups) fresh finely completely evaporated. When it’s had 5 hours
ground breadcrumbs the steamer and set aside to cool slightly (or
1½ teaspoons mixed spice wrap in baking paper and foil once cooled an
¾ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg until Christmas).
¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon
To serve, place a plate on top of the basin, tur
zest of 1 orange
the pudding. Serve with plenty of warm custa
juice and zest of 1 lemon
fish-eye ice cream (see page 253)!
2 green apples, peeled and grated
100 g (3 ½ oz) toasted flaked almonds
175 g (6 oz) toasted walnuts, chopped
coarsely
300 g (10 ½ oz) treacle
4 whole eggs
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ARTISANAL GOODS
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 F I S H - F AT C O C K T A I L

B Y M AT T WHILEY AT RE BAR

Fish sundries over the years have been underused, a cryovac bag along wit
especially in the bar world. But now, with the genius (we usually use vodka).
that Josh is showing in his restaurants and books, water bath at 60° C (140
people like me have been afforded the opportunity to After an hour or so, thi
learn, taking these ingredients and using them to create Next morning, we finely
special flavours. Using every part of all ingredients is coffee filter papers and
really important for the future of food not just here in caramel–flavoured spirit.
Australia but globally, and Josh is at the forefront We also use pure fish
of that. to add viscosity and tex
We utilise fish fat in two ways. Josh and the team steps as the cod fat cara
make an incredible cod fat caramel (featured in The of pure fish fat.
Whole Fish Cookbook ), so we put 250 g (9 oz) of this in
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 F I S H - F ATS O A P

BY GRACE OF THE SOAPSTRESS

As a little girl, I remember watching my nonna and tallow from cows.

rubbing a chunky bar of soap against a zigzag abroad about how the
washboard, the bubbles doubling and tripling in size them, including tallow
until they cascaded down her arm. I knew the soap Nothing was off lim
was made from the fat of the pig they slaughtered Josh approached me t
every year, but I always wondered: how could fat rendered from Murray
clean anything? intimidated. I mean, w
When I grew up, had children of my own and And indeed, when I m
embarked on the ‘as natural as possible’ route, I visited fat, it most definitely w
my nonna to ask if she would teach me how to make was going to help me
soap for my family. didn’t feel that amazing
Amazingly, my nonna, who couldn’t read or write, Not discouraged, I
made beautiful soap. She didn’t have a recipe or a time, using 50 per cen
scientific calculator to ensure her soap wasn’t ‘lye heavy’. other oils that would
Instead, she would float an egg in a solution of water moisturising qualities.
and lye. The egg served as a gauge that would reveal if I was close, but it still
there was enough or too much lye in the water to turn with different percenta
the fat into soap. nirvana. Now, I don’t
Armed with Google, I set off to explain the chemical connoisseur – honestly
reaction I had just witnessed. this blew my socks off
The process of making soap is called saponification, As I rolled the soap
an exothermic (heat-creating) chemical reaction that the rich, buttery lather
occurs between fats or oils and a base. What is left immediately heightene
behind is soap and glycerine. I found this intriguing and blend of essential oils,
immediately started experimenting with various fats As I rinsed, my hands
and oils, each time discovering their different qualities lotion. I knew the text
and how they changed the finished soap. to the high linolenic a
Being a butcher, I naturally started with the fats perfect, and I have no
I had on hand, learning how to render lard from pigs a lot more fish fat soap
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 F I S H - F AT CANDLE

BY HUNTER CANDLES

Candle making is a somewhat mysterious craft. As a Murray cod fat glistened

chandler, I can’t help but obsess over the wax, the wick than soy wax, so it took
size, how the candle burns, how it sets, how long it harden. But once it did,
lasts, how well the scent throws … And that’s just the aesthetic inconsistencies
beginning. I’ve been honing my craft for fifteen years creamy, the wax fat hard
now as Hunter Candles, yet I am still discovering, trial and error, the first
learning and experimenting each and every day, which the candle catch the flam
only further fuels my addiction. making that uses oils, t
When Josh, Julie and Ben bustled into our store one I liked the melty fat
fresh Sydney morning, I knew exactly who they were – rendered fish fat, which
their reputations precede them. But I could never have point, marrying with th
guessed the opportunity they were about to present to was creamy to burn, an
me: to create a candle from their spare Murray cod fat. sweet note, so we focuse
The nose in me piqued as I imagined what pure blubber would complement it, s
from a Murray cod might smell like – bad, I presumed. that would melt away a
Yet the more I mulled it over, a fabulously fatty, muddy, burning a candle made
seawater burn began swimming around my mind. We looked to where
Naturally I jumped at the opportunity and began natural habitat. They m
impatiently awaiting the arrival of my blubber. and billabongs framed
While it might sound subversive, the concept of covered rocks. From th
fish-fat candles has been around since the eighteenth muddy mossy notes, a
century. Wax from sperm whales was used by chandlers a woody cedar base. Ul
as it burned cleanly and didn’t produce an unpleasant fresh in a unique way. W
aroma like some tallow candles. While sperm whale Pepper Rocks.
wax is no longer used, the concept itself still serves Lighting our candle
as inspiration. mossy breeze with an u
On arrival, the ‘fishy’ smell intrigued me – without slight sprinkling of savo
hesitation, I threw my nose straight into the bag of It’s a scent that can abso
blubber. It’s a scent that’s hard to pin down, but to me anytime. I am eternally
it smelled soft and salty, like a wrist without perfume. for bringing this type o
And somehow not like fish at all. It has recalibrated the w
I dived headfirst into experimentation, meticulously are made, and about wh
weighing, smelling, mixing and stirring, tweaking possibilities may be out
a little each time. Wax and fat are fabulous friends, It’s only sensible that w
and when heated they blend together beautifully. The what’s possible when it

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 F I S H - B O N EC E R A M I C

BY SAM GORDON

As a third-generation potter, clay has always been temperature gets up to 10

a constant in my life. School holidays from as early as calcify. This firing take
I can remember were spent with pottery, from making are cool to touch they
a mess to weighing clay for the potters. I add this powder to e
Supplying the hospitality industry with venue- recipe, which is essenti
specific plates has always been my passion. The of silica, aluminium o
opportunity to use bones that would otherwise be temperature. I require 124
a waste product in any other kitchen (even after stocks The beauty of addin
have been made) in the glaze of the crockery is the glaze is that it mak
extremely rewarding. it to melt into the body
The use of bones in either the body of clay (bone that would otherwise
china) or the glaze is not new and was first done in the ceramics truly closes
1750s. The bones from Fish Butchery are first boiled market and potter. Bu
to remove any tissue, then I fire the bone alongside my have much more to ex
hand-thrown crockery in a vessel called a bisque, the in a pure bone china t
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 ACKNOWLEDGEMEN

Once again, having the opportunity to express my our entire team is inva
thoughts, views, and practices with regards to fish is patience, technical pro
something for which I am incredibly grateful. And the throughout the years
only reason I have the freedom to explore and develop help in making this bo
techniques – both old and new – is the incredible Chris Karvellas, tha
people around me. through any conditions
First and foremost, to my beautiful wife Julie, businesses as if they w
without whom Saint Peter, and all the businesses we being a beacon of poss
have created together, would have never existed (nor To Simon, Daniel,
survived). Your endless trust, courage and tenacity Julie, and the entire te
continues to inspire me every day. present. Thank you fo
Rebecca Lara, you are the backbone of Fish Butchery. your focus and attentio
Your enduring work ethic and tremendous technique book to life.
has motivated and inspired those around you for all Further thanks to e
the years we have worked together. this book – from the b
To Ben Torrance, you are the one who got the wheels Claudio Morales to th
turning and allowed me the freedom to be at my very by Luke Buchholz, Da
best. Not only are you an incredibly gifted chef and Matt Whiley, Vianney
leader but a wonderful friend and driving force behind Grace Steven, not to m
the work we do. illustrations by the ext
Bosley McGee, you are as rare as a needle in This book would be
a haystack. What you bring to Fish Butchery and I am forever grateful.
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 Published in 2023 by Hardie Grant Books, an imprint of Hardie Grant Publishing

Hardie Grant Books (Melbourne)

Building 1, 658 Church Street
Richmond, Victoria 3121

Hardie Grant Books (London)

5th & 6th Floors
52–54 Southwark Street
London SE1 1UN

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All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or tran
by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written
publishers and copyright holders.

The moral rights of the author have been asserted.

Copyright text © Josh Niland 2023

Copyright photography © Rob Palmer 2023
Copyright illustration © Reg Mombassa 2023
Copyright design © Hardie Grant Publishing 2023

Fish Butchery
eISBN 978 1 76145018 1

Publisher: Michael Harry

Project Editor/Editor: Simon Davis
Copy Editor: Simone Ford
Design Manager: Kristin Thomas
Designer: Daniel New
Photographer: Rob Palmer
Stylist: Lucy Tweed
Production Manager: Todd Rechner

Hardie Grant acknowledges the Traditional Owners of the country on which we work, the Wurundjeri
nation and the Gadigal people of the Eora nation, and recognises their continuing connection to the lan
We pay our respects to their Elders past, present and emerging.
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