HYDERABADI CUISINE
Hyderabad, the capital of Andhra Pradesh is a city with rich heritage in culture
and food. The city was the capital of great dynasties like qutub Shahi and
Nizams. It was sultan Mohammed quli who created the city of Hyderabad. He
married a Hindu woman, Bhagmati and named the city Bhag Nagar. Later
when Bhagmati was given the honorific of Queen Hyder Mahal, the city too was
named Hyderabad. The city is on the banks of river `Musi’ and Hussain Sagar
Lake. Hyderabad was ruled by Qutb Shahis from 1518 and 1687 and then the
dynasty was extinguished by the Mughals. The Qutb shahi Kings were devoted
Shia Muslims but with a secular outlook. They patronaged art, poetry and
food. After capturing Hyderabad, the Moghuls appointed a Nizam (governor)
for South India. The Nizams established the Asaf Jahi Dynasti. They ruled
Hyderabad from 1724 to 1948. The last Nizam was considered to be one of the
richest persons in the world. The city is famous for Charminar, Golconda fort,
the pearls, Hussain sagar Lake, Birla temple, choodi Bazar etc. as well. And of
late it is often called the `Cyber capital’ of India.
The Nizams were great lovers of food. It is said that the last Nizam Osman Ali
Khan used to personally write the daily menu for himself and the entire palace.
Nizams were also famous for hosting great state banquets. Hyderabad may
be truly regarded as north of the South. There is of course a Mughal imprint in
plenty as far as Hyderabadi food is concerned. This is because both qutab
Shahi and Asaf Jahi dynasty were Persians, arabs or even turks (Nizams had
nuptial relatives in Turkish royal family). The cuisine has got many other
influences like that of the local spicy Andhra food, the continental food (due to
the British rule), and south Indian food. The foreigners brought in some spices
of their own into Hyderabadi cuisine and hence a great influence of Middle
Eastern countries. Many of Nizam’s advisors and chefs were from Delhi and
Lucknow, and they brought with them their rich culture and food.
Hyderabad cuisine is known to be sumptuous with a richness of taste that is
difficult to find elsewhere in India. Day in and day out rich food is taken. The
food can be chillihot with spices floating on top. They have some special garam
masala and ‘Potli ka masala’ (which has got sandalwood, Pathar ke phool,
cassia buds, dried rosepetal etc. in it) of their own. Staple cereal is rice. Wheat
also is common. Meat is consumed from the breakfast to dinner.
Hyderabad cuisine is admittedly more non-veg then vegetarian. But
vegetarianism is not entirely alien to the city, the Hyderabadi Hindus prefers to
be veg on festival days, and orthodox Shia Muslims refrains from eating meat
on Moharam day. The meat consumed most is Lamb, as kebabs, curries or in
Biryanis. They relish almost all parts of lamb viz tongue, liver, kidney, trotters
etc. Vegetables are added in most meat dishes except in biriyani and kebabs.
Hyderabadis are proud of the ‘dal’ variety they have got.
They have khatti dals (sour), meeti dal (sweet), dalcha (dal with mutton), the
rare Chironji dal. Call it the triumph of South over North, the Hyderabadi is
more into rice than bread. A variety of pulaos, Biriyanis and Khichris are
there. The curries of Hyderabad can be a Shorva (thin soupy curry with
dumplings of meat and vegetables), Khorma (creamy yoghnut based), Khalia
(thicker curries), Salan(thin gravy:from Arabic term ‘salona’ for gravy) Bhuna
(with very little sauce) and a group without a specific name, are those that are
flavored with baghar, or seasoning. They boast of some special baked dishes
like Tootak (semolina and minced meat). The Arab influence is very specific in
Muzhi (goat stuffed with pulao, chicken, boiled eggs, nuts and cooked). Then
they have Marag (A broth of mutton and marrow) and Nehari (fine broth of
tongue and trotters). Another area of non-veg sector is mince meat (Kheema)
which is used for kebabs, kofta, pulaos etc. the dessert section is slightly
lesser in number but the ones they have are very famous like double ka meeta,
khubani ka meeta, Phirni. No meal in Hyderabad is complete without pickles.
Pickles are made of green mango, lemon, tamarind, green chilli, gongura
leaves, kamrak (star fruit) etc. The well known flaming red Andhra pickle
called the `Aavakai’ is very popular. They have a lot of home made `paans’ as
well. As they say in Hyderabad, the best food comes when it is made with
‘fursat’ (leisure) and ‘Mohabbat’ (love).
GENERAL COURSE OF HYDERABADI FOOD:
GAZAK- STARTER KHEEMA- MINCED MEAT
SHORVA- CURRY OF
MURG- CHICKEN
MEAT
MACHALI- FISH PILAF- PULAO AND BIRIYANI
CHAVAL- RICE SUBZI/TARKARIYAN- VEGETABLE
CURRIES
DAL- LENTILS ROTIYAN- BREAD
MEETHA-
SWEETS/DESSERT
FAMOUS DISHES:
GAZAKS:
Lukmi – Rectangular/triangular dough casing filled with minced meat/veg and
fried dough made with maida and curd.
Pathar ke Gosht: Marinated mutton pasandas (flattened pieces) cooked on a
stone
Tootak: minced meat patties baked in a semolina cone.
Shikampur: Derived from the terms ‘Shikam’ means a slave to ones belly or an
epicure and ‘parwar’= nourish. So it is a dish that pampers Epicurean taste.
A moist kebab with a relish filling and shallow fried.
CURRIES:
Bhindi ka Shorva: Mutton and okra curry
Gawar phalli ka Khalia: dry/semi dry meat preparation with gypsy/cluster
beans
Nalli ka Khorma: Bone marrow curry
Nehari: Broth of goat’s tongue and
trotters
Haleem : a savory porridge of ground meat and broken wheat
Saalim Raan: Whole leg of lamb fried and cooked with masalas.
PILAFS:
Kachi Biriyani: Meat cooked with raw rice
Paye ka Pulao : Pilaf of trotters
TARKARIYAN
Bagare Baingan: slit aubergines browned and cooked in a nutty sauce of
sesame, ground nut, coconut and tamarind.
Mirchi ka salan: Made with stuffed chilles
Dum ke Boote: Simmered green gram curry
Dals:
Keoti Dal: A medley of four lentils (channa, dhuli mong, masur dal-dhuli, and
red gram lentil/arhar dal)
Dalcha: Mutton and Dal (Masur and or arhar) curry
ROTIS:
Sheermal: Soft bread made with milk, butter, yeast and sugar.
Accompaniment for Haleem.
MEETA:Khubani ka meeta: Stewed apricot with cream. Gille firdouse:
Double ka meeta.
FESTIVALS: Idul-fitr (Ramzan) and Bakri Id are the most important. During
Ramzan fasting is observed during day and to break it they have `iftar’ which
will have Haleem and Sheermal. Id-ul-zuha (Bakri Id) is celebrated in memory
of the sacrifice by Prophet Ibraham. A goat is sacrified to `Allah’ and the meat
is distributed for the poor.
*******************
