chapter M a s k i n g T e c h n i q u e s

S E V E N

7-1 The cockpit on this Testor T-33A was detailed only with paint and the decals from the kit.

MASKING CANOPIES AND WINDOWS together. Slice around the areas beside the
It is possible to paint the framework frames with a hobby knife and remove the
around a canopy by hand or to cover just mask from the frame areas. Paint the cockpit
the framework with black draftsman’s lining interior color on the the canopy first and let
ta p e .U s u a l l y, however, the model will be it dry, then apply the exterior color. Leave
more realistic if the canopy is glued in place, the masking material on the canopy (and
at least until the painting is complete, so the a ny other clear areas) to protect the clear
canopy can be painted at the same time as plastic surfaces until the model is completely
the [Link] can use pinhead-size dabs finished, coated with clear finish and weathered.
of rubber cement or artist’s matte medium
(a clear liquid latex) to hold the clear canopy
in place until the painting is complete.
Use Model Master Masking Tape #50622,
Pactra Trim Tape, or Model Master Parafilm
M Masking Material #50641, pressed around
the edge of the canopy frames with a pencil,
to mask [Link] the entire canopy
with tape, but try to position the tape so most
of the overlapping edges occur on the clear
portion of the canopy rather than on the
framework. If you must join strips of masking 7-2 Leave the masking tape or film over the clear
on the framework, position them tightly areas of the cockpit until the model is completely
painted, clear-coated and weathered.
7-3 A Testor Douglas AC-47 painted and decaled to match the box art by Terry Tuytscheavers.

7-4 Cover the entire window area with masking 7-6 The two rear windows on Terry Tuytschaever’s
tape, then slice around the window frames. Douglas AC-47 are open to be used as gunports.

MASKING CANOPIES AND WINDOWS the framework with black draftsman’s lining
It is possible to paint the framework [Link], however, the model will be
around a canopy by hand or to cover just more realistic if the canopy is glued in place,

7-5 Peel the excess Masking Tape away to leave the 7-7 Paint the inside walls of the cockpit and finish
tape covering only the windows. all the details before cementing the canopy in place.
at least until the painting is complete, so the PAINTING INTERIORS
canopy can be painted at the same time as BEFORE ASSEMBLY
the model. You can use pinhead-size dabs The interiors of the cockpit, landing gear
of rubber cement or artist’s matte medium bays and bomb bays will not be accessible
(a clear liquid latex) to hold the clear canopy once the model is assembled. If you want a
in place until the painting is complete. detailed interior in any of these areas,then,
Use Model Master Masking Tape #50622, finish the detail work and painting before
Pactra Trim Tape, or Model Master Parafilm you assemble the model. The canopy itself
will mask the cockpit interior while you paint
the remainder of the model. Use masking
tape to cover the landing gear bays,bomb
bays,or other interior openings while you
finish painting the exterior of the model.

CLEAN AND CRISP COLOR

DEMARCATION LINE CAMOUFLAGE
If the camouflage pattern has a sharp
color demarcation line, use the paper photo-
copies as patterns to cut masking tape masks.
Tape the paper patterns beneath a sheet of
glass or Plexiglass so you can see the pattern
7-8 When the painting is complete, peel away the
masking tape or film to reach the finished landing through the glass or plastic. Cover the glass
gear bay. or Plexiglass with Model Master #50622
Masking Tape, overlapping each strip by
M Masking Material #50641, pressed around about l/16 inch to produce a solid surface
the edge of the canopy frames with a pencil, of masking tape. Borrow a fluorescent light
to mask [Link] the entire canopy or use one of the “Light Stick”types of fix-
with tape, but try to position the tape so most ture and place it beneath the glass on the
of the overlapping edges occur on the clear side with the photocopied plan. Turn on the
portion of the canopy rather than on the light and you should be able to see the pho-
framework. If you must join strips of masking tocopy through the glass and the masking
on the framework, position them tightly [Link] not, use additional fluorescent
together. Slice around the areas beside the lights. You can now trace the photocopied
frames with a hobby knife and remove the patterns right through the tape with a hobby
mask from the frame areas. Paint the cockpit knife. Remove the masking tape that will
interior color on the the canopy first and let
it dry, then apply the exterior color. Leave
the masking material on the canopy (and
a ny other clear areas) to protect the clear
plastic surfaces until the model is completely
finished, coated with clear finish and weathered.
When the last paint is dry, slice along the
edge of the masking tape again to cut the
paint layers away from the edges of the tape,
then gently remove the masking material
from the clear areas.
7-9 Peel the paint and the underlying rubber cement
to reveal the rust-painted undercoat.
be used to protect the lighter color on the
model and apply it to the [Link] patterns
will not be a perfect fit, but minor adjustments
can be made by trimming the tape slightly
or by adding additional strips of tape and
trimming them to fit with the hobby knife.
Finish masking the lighter areas, then spray
the darker color and, before the paint dries,
remove the tape. If the color demarcation
line is too jagged, try scraping it to a sharper 7-11 Wipe the ink from the area around the panel
edge with the tip of hobby knife. Alternately, lines before it has time to dry.
touch up the area with paint applied with a
number 3/0 paint brush.

BATTLE DAMAGE AND RUST

One of the most striking forms of battle
damage on armor is old damage that has
begun to rust and left long enough so the

7-12 The underwing stores of this A-6E Intruder

have fine lines that can be easily duplicated with the
slice and ink-stain technique.

You can, incidentally, use this same technique

for simple rusted and peeled paint without
the battle damage. Finish assembling and
the final painting of the model. The layer
7-10 Use a steel ruler to guide your knife when of rubber cement will be visible through the
slicing panel lines that are to be accented with ink. paint as a mound with brush [Link]
gently at the center of the rubber cemented
adjoining paint is peeling. To model those area with the point of a hobby knife and the
effects, begin before the model is painted. outer coats of paint can be peeled a way.
As always, work from photographs of actual Peel only about half of the rubber cement-
battle damage, even if it did not occur to the
exact vehicle you are modeling. First, the battle
damage itself is inflicted with drills and files to
match the shape and texture of the damage
in the [Link], that area can be painted
a rust color with Model Master #1785 Rust.
Adding a drop or two of black is often
close to the color of older and dirtied rust.
Paint the area you will want to find peeled
paint with a thick coat of rubber cement 7-13 Use the side of number 2 pencil lead to produce
(available at stationery stores) and let it dry. a shadow effect to accent individual panels.
coated area to reveal the rust; just loosen will remain only in the sliced line. The trick,
the remaining paint and let it rest in a half- here, is to make the slice so gentle that it
does not create a farmer’s plow-like furrow
with sides, but a thin slice.
On some models with raised panel lines,
you can achieve the effect of individual panels
by simply shading the seams by rubbing a
number 2 lead pencil across the panel seams.
Hold the pencil so only the side of the lead
contacts the seam and, thus, receives the
shadow effect.
An alternative method is to simply accent
7-14 Use a piece of business card, cut to match the
shape of the edges of the panel lines, to mask part of the edges of the panel with a “wash”(nine
the Aluminum Plate Metalizer while you airbrush parts thinner to one part paint) of a color
adjacent panels with Stainless Steel Metalizer. This one shade darker or lighter than the original.
is Terry Tuytschaever’s Testor Martin B-57B Canberra. You can paint the entire panel by masking
all adjacent [Link] is easier, however, to
peeled condition. adjust the airbrush to produce a pencil-thin
line and “mask”the adjacent panels with a
SIMULATING SEPARATE PAINTED PANELS
Some aircraft and armor, particularly
those with light gray colors and separate
panels,have very visible differences between
the [Link] can accent the lines between
the panels effectively by slicing over them
gently with a hobby knife, then painting over
the slices with black drafting ink. Paint only
three or four inches of ink, then immediately
wipe off the excess with a clean rag. The ink

7-15 Doug DeCounter used styrene plastic sheet and strip to build the workbench with its open drawers.
The hand tools are from the Italeri “Field Tool Shop” kit. The markings are Verlinden dry transfers.