CLIMBING WALL

INSTRUCTOR
CANDIDATE HANDBOOK
PREFACE

P R E FA C E
This handbook has been designed to support candidates through Mountain Training’s Climbing Wall Instructor
qualification and Abseil Module. It contains useful information about the various stages in the scheme as well as the
syllabus and guidance notes.

PA R T I C I PAT I O N S TAT E M E N T
Mountain Training recognises that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury
or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions.
Mountain Training has developed a range of training and assessment schemes and associated supporting literature to help
instructors manage these risks and to enable new participants to have positive experiences while learning about their
responsibilities.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Many people have contributed to the preparation of the contents of this handbook, by attending Mountain Training
working party meetings and by making detailed and constructive comments on the draft. Grateful thanks are due to
volunteers and staff from the Climbing Awards Review Working Group, national Mountain Training organisation council
members, course providers, staff of the mountaineering councils, members of the Association of Mountaineering
Instructors, Mountain Training Association, staff from the National Mountain Centres and members of The Association of
British Climbing Walls for their help and support.

Thanks also to the following individuals whose photographs bring the handbook to life: Jessie Leong, Karl Midlane, NICAS,
Rick Singh, Rob Greenwood and The Adventure Brand.

ROCK CLIMBING
Throughout this handbook there are references to Rock Climbing by Libby Peter which we publish to
support developing rock climbers and instructors. It is packed with essential information and techniques
and we have listed the relevant section(s) for each syllabus area.

Published by Mountain Training, Siabod Cottage, Capel Curig, Conwy LL24 0ES
Tel: 01690 720272
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.mountain-training.org

© Mountain Training April 2018. Version 1.1.

All rights reserved
Design by Dragon Design: www.dragondesignwales.com

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 CONTENTS
SCHEME PATHWAY 4-6

TECHNICAL COMPETENCE 7-10

– EQUIPMENT AND BELAYING ......................................................... 7-8

– PERSONAL SKILLS AND BACKGROUND KNOWLEDGE ..................... 9-10

MANAGEMENT AND DECISION MAKING 11-16

– PLANNING AND MANAGEMENT OF PARTICIPANTS ....................... 11-12

– DECISION MAKING AND KNOWLEDGE AND ............................... 13-14
DEMONSTRATION OF TECHNIQUES
– MANAGING/SUPERVISING OTHER STAFF ...................................... 15-16

TEACHING AND LEARNING SKILLS 17-18

THE CLIMBING ENVIRONMENT 19-20

– ACCESS AND ETIQUETTE AND ETHICS ........................................... 19-20

CLIMBING WALL INSTRUCTOR ABSEIL MODULE 21-28

– SCHEME PATHWAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21-22

– TECHNICAL COMPETENCE ......................................................... 23-24

– MANAGEMENT AND DECISION MAKING ..................................... 25-26

– TEACHING AND LEARNING SKILLS ............................................... 27-28

APPENDIX 29

– ADDITIONAL INFORMATION ........................................................ 29

CANDIDATE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM AND DLOG 30

MOUNTAIN TRAINING ASSOCIATION 31

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 1 . S C H E M E P A T H W AY
SCHEME PATHWAY

1.1. INTRODUCTION
The Climbing Wall Instructor gives climbers the skills required to supervise participants on purpose built artificial climbing
walls and boulders.

It is ideal for people who work at climbing walls or at venues with permanent or mobile climbing towers.

1.2. SCOPE OF THE SCHEME

A qualified instructor can:
Teach climbing skills.
Take people climbing and bouldering.
Manage groups safely in these activities.

TERRAIN
A qualified Climbing Wall Instructor can operate on:
Indoor and outdoor artificial bouldering venues.
Indoor and outdoor climbing walls.

EXCLUSIONS
The scheme does not cover:
The rock climbing skills needed to climb and/or supervise others on natural crags and quarries (these are covered
in the Rock Climbing Instructor scheme).
Multi-pitch rock climbing skills.
The teaching or supervision of leading.
The use of leader-placed protection.
The supervision of high or low ropes courses.
The supervision of ice climbing walls, including dry tooling.
The assessment of candidates’ personal qualities.
Adaptive rope techniques for disabled climbers.

1 . 3 . S TA G E S I N T H E S C H E M E
1.3.1. Registration prerequisites:
You must be at least 17 years old (18 at assessment).
You should have at least 6 months of experience of using a variety of climbing walls.
You should have an interest in climbing and in supervising groups on climbing walls.
You must be a member of a mountaineering council (British Mountaineering Council, Mountaineering Ireland,
Mountaineering Scotland).

1.3.2. Training prerequisites:

You must be registered on the scheme.
You must have an understanding on the wider sport of climbing.
You must have an up to date logbook (preferably DLOG) with evidence of the following:
Visits to 3 different climbing walls on at least 15 difference occasions; this must include at least one major public
wall.
10 led routes at Fr 4 on walls.

The Mountain Training Association is a voluntary membership organisation designed to

support candidates working towards our qualifications and provide development
opportunities for those who already have them. Anyone who is registered on one of our
qualification schemes can join the Mountain Training Association and members get
access to a wide range of supportive benefits, including access to CPD workshops,
discounts on outdoor clothing and equipment and online resources.

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 SCHEME PATHWAY
1.3.3. Consolidation period
Climb at a wide range of venues, both as an individual and when assisting with the supervision of others.
All but the most experienced candidates should allow a minimum of six months between training and assessment.
There is currently no time limit on the validity of a training course and some candidates may take several years to
complete the qualification.

1.3.4. Assessment prerequisites:

You must be at least 18 years old to attend the assessment.
You must have attended a Climbing Wall Instructor (or Climbing Wall Award) training course or been granted
exemption from training.
You must be familiar with the syllabus.
You must have logged a minimum of 30 visits to at least three different climbing walls.
You must have led a minimum of 40 climbs on climbing walls.
You must be confident at leading routes at Fr 4.
You must have assisted in the supervision of at least 15 instructed sessions on at least two different walls, including
a large public facility, in a variety of contexts. At least five of these sessions must have personal reflective comments
recorded on DLOG.
You must hold a current first aid qualification, relevant to your work as a Climbing Wall Instructor.

2. COURSE STRUCTURE
ASSESSMENT
TRAINING
Training will involve a minimum of 12 hours Assessment will involve a minimum of 6 hours
contact time delivered over a minimum of two contact time.
days. The course must visit two climbing walls, one Results: Pass, Defer, Fail, Not yet completed,
of which must be a public facility. Withdrew, Did not show.
Results: Completed, Not yet completed,
Withdrew, Did not show, Exemption. There is no exemption from any element of the
assessment.

3. COURSE DELIVERY
TRAINING ASSESSMENT
Course directors must hold the Mountaineering Course directors must hold the Mountaineering
Instructor Award or higher plus national Instructor Award or higher plus national
Mountain Training organisation requirements. Mountain Training organisation requirements.
Additional staff must be Climbing Wall Instructor Additional staff must hold the Mountaineering
or higher. Instructor Award or higher plus national
Mountain Training organisation requirements.
Min course size: 4, max course size: 12, max ratio:
1:6 (needs min 4 to practice role with a group). Min course size: 2, max course size: 8, max ratio:
1:4.

4 . AWA R D I N G O R G A N I S AT I O N S
Mountain Training Cymru
Mountain Training England
Mountain Training Scotland
Mountain Training Board of Ireland

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 C L I M B I N G P A T H W AY

PERSONAL SKILLS INSTRUCTOR COACH

OUTDOOR INDOOR OUTDOOR INDOOR/OUTDOOR

Indoor
Rock Skills
Climbing
Coach
Assistant
START HERE

Rock Skills Climbing Wall Rock Climbing

Intermediate Instructor Instructor

Development
Coach
Climbing Wall Rock Climbing
Rock Skills Rock Skills
Development Development
Lead Sport Lead Trad
Instructor Instructor

Mountaineering
Instructor
Award

Performance
Coach
Mountaineering
Instructor

Direct Skills Assistant Leadership Coaching Recommended

Entry Courses Progression
TECHNICAL COMPETENCE – EQUIPMENT AND BELAYING

Climbing Wall Instructors will be able to identify and evaluate commonly used indoor climbing equipment and demonstrate
its use to individuals during a climbing session. They will be personally competent in a range of indoor climbing techniques
and be able to provide clear demonstrations and effective tuition to novice climbers. They will be able to:

SYLLABUS
1. EQUIPMENT 2 . B E L AY I N G
1.1. Select and fit suitable climbing equipment for 2.1. Tie into the rope. Attach group members to the rope.
personal and group use.
2.2. Demonstrate the use of direct and indirect belay
1.2. Demonstrate an ability to evaluate the condition of systems, and choose the most appropriate for a given
personal climbing equipment and ensure appropriate use, situation.
care and maintenance in line with manufacturers’
guidance. 2.3. Set up bottom rope systems and choose the most
appropriate for a given situation.
1.3. Demonstrate an ability to evaluate the
condition of climbing wall equipment and ensure 2.4. Demonstrate the skills of a competent belayer
appropriate use of: including holding falls and controlling lowers.

1.3.1. In-situ ropes. 2.5. Supervise others belaying.

1.3.2. Auto-belays.
1.3.3. Fixed matting.
1.3.4. Holds. ROCK CLIMBING
1.3.5. Anchors/lower offs and fixed equipment. Section 6.6: Equipment
Section 6.6.6: Belay Devices
Section 8.4.3: Belaying

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 GUIDANCE NOTES

TECHNICAL COMPETENCE – EQUIPMENT AND BELAYING

EQUIPMENT B E L AY I N G
A sound knowledge of equipment is important for Belaying is a crucial element of roped climbing and
a Climbing Wall Instructor because it is an integral belayer error is a potential cause of serious
element of climbing safely. Misuse of climbing accidents. Your personal competence and ability to
equipment can have dangerous consequences. As supervise others in this task is therefore of the
an instructor you are also likely to offer advice to utmost importance. You need to be familiar with
novices on choice and suitability of equipment ways of tailing and understand the consequences
which cannot be done well if you do not have of not doing this properly.
appropriate knowledge and understanding.
There are many knots that can be used for tying in.
Climbing equipment such as footwear, helmets, You should consider the pros and cons of
harnesses (including full body harnesses), belay commonly used knots and their variations. You
devices (including assisted braking devices) and should consider when it may be acceptable to use a
karabiners come in a variety of different styles karabiner to connect the harness to the rope and
and sizes to suit different user groups. Some the extra checks this requires.
equipment is better suited for use with groups and
some is more suitable for developing climbers; Most of the time you will be belaying directly from
developing your technical competence will help the harness or rope tie in loop but you need an
you decide which is which and enable you to offer understanding of when it might be appropriate to
advice accordingly. For example, the decision use an indirect system involving sandbags or
making process around when, and what type of ground anchors.
helmet should be worn is important.

Any in-situ equipment in a commercial climbing

centre should be fit for use and climbing wall
managers will appreciate your support if items are
starting to look worn. You may also find yourself
operating in non-commercial settings and you will
need to have thought about how you are going to
make decisions about whether or not the in-situ
equipment is in good working order.

! KEY PRACTICE POINTS

EQUIPMENT ANCHORS
Practise fitting a range of different helmets Take time to make sure you are ‘expert’ at
and harnesses. Research why there may be tying on as you will be in a role modelling
differences in the overall design or features. situation.

Take time to familiarise yourself with your Practise lead climbing and lead belaying
own equipment by reading the so that you can do this safely and
manufacturer’s guidance label each time efficiently should you need to put a rope
you buy a new piece of kit. up.

Develop an effective methodology for Become proficient in using manual and

demonstrating the fitting of equipment to a assisted braking devices for both
group of novices. personal and group climbing.

Seek out guidance on the storage of Be aware of the interaction between

climbing equipment in particular for ropes different ropes, karabiners and belay
and harnesses. devices. Alongside the belayer's
experience this should inform your
choice of equipment used.

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TECHNICAL COMPETENCE – PERSONAL SKILLS AND BACKGROUND KNOWLEDGE

SYLLABUS
3. PERSONAL SKILLS 4. BACKGROUND
3.1. Choose and lead routes suited to personal ability KNOWLEDGE
(minimum French 4).
4.1. Describe an awareness of the history, traditions and
3.2. Demonstrate a basic understanding of the safety ethics of climbing in the UK and Ireland.
chain and fall factors.
4.2. Describe the role and philosophy of Mountain
3.3. Move with confidence on appropriate routes and Training and its schemes, the mountaineering councils,
boulder problems. climbing clubs and the NICAS/NIBAS schemes.

4.3. Describe the development of climbing walls in the

UK and Ireland.
ROCK CLIMBING 4.4. Describe the structure of competition climbing.
Section 2: A brief history of British and Irish
4.5. Describe the grading systems used in the UK and
climbing
Ireland.

9
 GUIDANCE NOTES

TECHNICAL COMPETENCE – PERSONAL SKILLS AND BACKGROUND KNOWLEDGE

PERSONAL SKILLS BACKGROUND
Being a good role model is an essential part of
KNOWLEDGE
being a Climbing Wall Instructor. When you are
Candidates registering on the Climbing Wall
climbing, regardless of the grade on which you are
Instructor scheme will be a member of their
operating, you should look smooth, relaxed,
mountaineering council, and so join a large
unhurried and able to climb with the minimum of
community of climbers, walkers and mountaineers.
effort by demonstrating good, appropriate,
movement skills.
Mountaineering Scotland, Mountaineering Ireland
and the British Mountaineering Council (BMC)
You need to understand how the risks of lead
publish good practice resources, deliver training
climbing might be managed differently by climber
events, and campaign to protect the freedoms of
and belayer when the climber is near to the
their members and the wider climbing, walking and
ground compared to when they are higher up a
mountaineering community, and so their work
climb.
supports Mountain Training candidates.
You also need to understand how the position of
In partnership with Mountain Training, the
the belayer may affect the forces they feel in the
councils seek to help climbers develop their skills
event of a fall.
or undertaking Mountain Training schemes. You
could consider volunteering your time to support
your mountaineering council to learn more about
their work.

As a Climbing Wall Instructor, you should

understand something of the history of climbing
walls and how they fit into the wider world of
competition climbing, outdoor climbing and
mountaineering. In your role as a Climbing Wall
Instructor you should be prepared to operate on
walls of any style or age, using whatever grading
system is in operation.

You should also have knowledge of how Mountain

Training works and the schemes they offer. You can
then advise others for whom a Mountain Training
scheme will support their own personal
development.

! KEY PRACTICE POINTS

PERSONAL SKILLS BACKGROUND
KNOWLEDGE
When leading a route remember you are a
role model. You will need to climb well, clip Consider taking part in a competition or
well and generally ‘look the part’. volunteering for a mountaineering
council competition during your
Always ‘buddy check’ your partner before consolidation period.
they climb.
Explore Mountain Training’s and your
Practise lead climbing and lead belaying in mountaineering council’s website to gain
different venues with different partners. a greater understanding of their roles
and the work they do.

Familiarise yourself with the National

Indoor Climbing Award Schemes:
http://www.nicas.co.uk/

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 MANAGEMENT AND DECISION

Climbing Wall Instructors should be able to independently organise, plan, manage and deliver sessions to a wide range of
participants, often with support from an assistant. They should be able to:
MAKING – PLANNING AND MANAGEMENT

SYLLABUS
5. PLANNING AND 6. MANAGEMENT OF
STRUCTURE OF SESSIONS PA R T I C I PA N T S
OF PARTICIPANTS

5.1. Plan individual sessions and programmes of activities 6.1. Select appropriate management techniques to
with appropriate aims and objectives. safeguard all participants, irrespective of whether or not
they are directly involved in the climbing activity.
5.2. Demonstrate flexibility when planning activities;
respond to changing circumstances. 6.2. Utilise effective communication skills to:
5.3. Demonstrate an awareness of responsibility to any 6.2.1. Set and review targets.
authorising organisation, parents/guardians, individual
group members, the group as a whole and other site 6.2.2. Identify and react to the needs of the
users. group in relation to involvement, interest,
enjoyment and achievement.
5.4. Demonstrate an understanding of the impact of
weather when climbing on artificial structures. 6.3. Demonstrate an understanding of warming up and
injury avoidance techniques.
5.5. Be aware of Mountain Training’s National Guidelines.
6.4. Brief individuals and the group appropriately.

6.5. Manage time appropriately in relation to the plan,

activity and conditions. Avoid common roped climbing
ROCK CLIMBING problems.
Section 21: The law & risk management
Section 20: Incidents 6.6. Avoid common roped climbing problems.

6.7. Solve common problems if they occur.

6.8. In the case of an incident describe how to call for

relevant assistance.
6.9. Communicate with the group and individuals to
identify whether anyone has an injury or disability that
may require reasonable adjustments to be made to
enable them to participate in the session.

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 GUIDANCE NOTES

MANAGEMENT AND DECISION

PLANNING AND MANAGEMENT OF
STRUCTURE OF SESSIONS PA R T I C I PA N T S
Effective Climbing Wall Instructors recognise that Climbing Wall Instructors need to be very mindful of
prior planning and good structuring of sessions the environment within which they are operating. The
commonly results in participants having a safe and physical space may not have been designed with your
enjoyable time. In many ways, preparation is the purposes in mind and you will need to adapt your
hallmark of high quality instruction. As a Climbing management of your group accordingly.
Wall Instructor you may be required to work with a Clear communication is paramount; groups need
group over a number of sessions. You should be able clear and concise targets and expectations to be set.
to plan a series of sessions which might be spread Instructors need the empathetic skills required to
over a number of weeks. Each session will need clear recognise when change is required and communicate
objectives to achieve the overall aims of the course. this in a sensitive but authoritative manner.
Each session should have a clear structure and show
progression. You must have a clear grasp of the principles of
warming up. You need to have a range of activities in
As a Climbing Wall Instructor you should understand your repertoire so you can work effectively with a
the responsibilities assumed when you take charge of range of age groups and with people of differing levels
a group and the fact that you will be assumed to have of mobility.
a higher level of ‘duty of care’.
Time management is always a balancing game for
Outdoor structures are exposed to the full effects of instructors; being well prepared before a session is
weather conditions and instructors should be key. The pace of a session at a climbing wall can be
mindful of this when planning climbing sessions. relatively fast and you may need to adapt your
Temperature changes can loosen holds, even indoors, management style or have strategies in place to deal
if they are not pinned. with this safely. You will need to be able to adjust the
time allowed for particular activities within a session
in order to respond to the needs of your group.
In typical bottom roping situations roped problems

MAKING – PLANNING AND MANAGEMENT

are very rare. Focus on belaying and tying on to the
rope as your first priority. Training and practising
lowers low down on a route will prevent many issues.
If you need extra security then a knot behind the
belay plate, on the dead rope, will give you peace of
mind whilst you consider your actions.
Problems should be foreseen and avoided by sound
training, clear briefs and two way communication.
There is no need for a Climbing Wall Instructor to

OF PARTICIPANTS
carry out rope rescues on the wall without further,
site-specific, training.

! KEY PRACTICE POINTS

PLANNING AND MANAGEMENT OF
STRUCTURE OF SESSIONS PA R T I C I PA N T S
Observe how other instructors plan and Experiment with different ways to engage
structure climbing sessions based around with your group e.g. games and ice breaker
their clients’ aims and objectives and how this activities.
might change with different circumstances.
Practise delivering briefings and
Make yourself familiar with the legal aspects instructions to novice climbers and evaluate
of taking people climbing, in particular with what methods work well and understand
under those under the age of 18. why.
Consider how you would adapt practice to
support different needs. For example,
supporting a light belayer/heavy climber, a
timid climber, a hearing impaired climber.
etc.
Most accidents happen in bouldering walls
– don’t relax here. Focus on how
experienced instructors keep control and
build up participants' skills and safety.

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 MANAGEMENT AND DECISION
MAKING – DECISION MAKING AND KNOWLEDGE
AND DEMONSTRATION OF TECHNIQUES

SYLLABUS
7. DECISION MAKING 8.2. Demonstrate the use of bouldering activities with
groups, using appropriate games and activities, including
7.1. Demonstrate dynamic risk assessments throughout a setting simple boulder problems.
climbing session.
8.3. Teach and demonstrate basic climbing movement
7.2. Assess the abilities and objectives of the group skills.
participating in the session.
8.4. Supervise a group of novice climbers in the following
activities:
8. KNOWLEDGE AND
8.4.1. Belaying and tying-in.
D E M O N S T R AT I O N O F
8.4.2. Climbing (including bouldering).
TECHNIQUES
8.1. Deliver technical instruction to individuals and the
group including:

8.1.1. Choice and fitting of suitable harnesses.

8.1.2. Attaching the rope to the harness.

8.1.3. Effective belaying.

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 GUIDANCE NOTES

MANAGEMENT AND DECISION

DECISION MAKING Climbing games can be a great way of motivating
groups and getting everybody involved at a level
Learning to make good decisions is a challenging which suits them. You should however, have a
and enjoyable part of being a Climbing Wall critical eye on the purposefulness of any games
Instructor. It takes time, practise and being used and not just reproduce something you
self-reflection and will ultimately lead to more have been shown regardless of its suitability for
successful sessions for you and your clients so it is the group in front of you.
worth the effort.
Your training course will cover teaching movement
KNOWLEDGE AND skills so that your group can enjoy their climbing
D E M O N S T R AT I O N O F session to the full. The emphasis should be placed
on getting individuals actively involved in the
TECHNIQUES activity rather than their long-term development.
For a more in-depth appreciation you may
Climbing Wall Instructors need to build up a consider attending a FUNdamentals of Climbing
portfolio of knowledge and demonstration workshop delivered by the mountaineering
techniques to effectively facilitate a session. councils; and the Mountain Training Foundation
Often, instructors will find themselves working Coach scheme; all of which will develop these skills
with large groups of novices, where a simple skill in much greater depth.
such as fitting a harness will need a well thought
out demonstration. When roped climbing the instructor’s eyes will
constantly monitor the belayer’s actions. To do this
The key aspect of demonstrating skills is to ensure you must be well positioned to see all belayers all
that you know your subject well and have the time. With novices the instructor will need to
practised it a number of times, ideally with constantly check every connection in the safety
feedback and criticism to allow for greater chain.
development. See also syllabus section 10
Teaching and learning skills.

MAKING – DECISION MAKING AND KNOWLEDGE

Supervising bouldering requires excellent
organisation, communication and constant
Traversing is a useful way of teaching movement vigilance. You will need to know when and how to
skills and this may require clear boundaries as spot individuals to support their safety.
ascent tends to be the human default setting.

! KEY PRACTICE POINTS

AND DEMONSTRATION OF TECHNIQUES

DECISION MAKING Consider how you instruct individuals
belaying climbers. Your instruction
Read Mountain Training's National should be applicable to the group and
Guidelines and research the Health & situation. Experiment with different
Safety Executive’s approach to sensible risk devices and strategies to ensure you are
management, controlling risks and risk able to cope in different circumstances.
assessment. Also consider using assisted braking
devices in the teaching progression.
Observe how other instructors plan and
structure climbing sessions based around Spend time in bouldering walls watching
their clients aims and objectives and how experienced instructors supervising and
this might change with different teaching novices. This is skilled work that
circumstances. takes great concentration (see Mountain
Training’s Bouldering Guidance Notes).
KNOWLEDGE AND
D E M O N S T R AT I O N O F
TECHNIQUES
Develop systematic ways of fitting
helmets and harnesses. Watching
experienced instructors working is the
best way to do this. Instruction needs to
be clear, concise and accompanied by
flawless demonstration.

14
MANAGEMENT AND DECISION MAKING – MANAGING/SUPERVISING OTHER STAFF

SYLLABUS
9 . M A N A G I N G / S U P E R V I S I N G O T H E R S TA F F
9.1 . Explain the role and scope of an assistant. Describe 9.2. Manage an assistant.
the opportunities and liabilities presented by using an
assistant in a session.

15
 GUIDANCE NOTES

MANAGEMENT AND DECISION MAKING – MANAGING/SUPERVISING OTHER STAFF

An assistant is any person who supports an compelled to work with them either. By definition
instructor in the delivery of their session but who an assistant or an unqualified member of staff
does not direct or make decisions about the cannot work independently and you are
management of the session. responsible for the group and the actions of an
assistant at all times. All assistant deployment
Assistants and unqualified staff can be of should be risk assessed before each session begins.
enormous benefit to a session provided that they
are managed appropriately. They can support the It is essential that assistants are appropriately
talented, those with individual requirements, their supervised by you, the instructor, so that there can
peers, or their own students and children, and can be constant communication and guidance given.
be powerful role models for the participants. An
assistant can help further with clearly defined It is not possible to give specific guidance on
technical roles such as fitting personal climbing instructor/student ratios with assistants as this
equipment and backing up belayers. However the will vary with the situation. For example, a disabled
judgements as to what activities are to be climber may benefit from the support of two or
undertaken, and how they are to be managed, more assistants working very closely with an
remain with the instructor. instructor whilst a talented academy group may
benefit from an assistant working in sight of the
Assistants and other staff come with a wide range instructor in a bouldering wall. The qualified
of experience and competencies and you are instructor remains ultimately responsible for the
wholly responsible for assessing these. If in doubt group and must always be in a position to
you should not use an assistant and not be intervene if necessary.

! KEY PRACTICE POINTS

Practise briefing an assistant about their Get into the habit of discussing your
role and remit. session with an assistant to give and
receive feedback.
Practise maintaining a position of maximum
effectiveness, keeping assistants within
sight and easy communication at all times.

16
TEACHING AND LEARNING SKILLS

Climbing Wall Instructors will frequently need to give tuition and support to a range of climbers in a variety of climbing
related techniques. They should be able to:

SYLLABUS
10. TEACHING AND LEARNING SKILLS
10.1 . Create and maintain a positive learning 10.4. Help participants develop a positive attitude
environment for all participants. towards climbing and introduce the idea of lifelong
participation.
10.2 . Communicate effectively and appropriately with a
group and individuals, checking for understanding. 10.5. Identify and use appropriate tasks to develop
effective and safe climbers.
10.3 . Demonstrate an ability to adapt the teaching style
to meet group needs. 10.6. Demonstrate an understanding of the reasons for
evaluating a session and success of the outcome.

17
 GUIDANCE NOTES

TEACHING AND LEARNING SKILLS

Climbing Instructors need to quickly create an appropriate level of challenge and structure a task
environment of trust and confidence within their to stimulate and stretch the climber but not to
group so that participants feel safe and intimidate or defeat them. Instructors also need to
comfortable to tackle new and challenging be adaptive in their approach. If a particular
activities. Age, ability, individual requirements, technique or activity is not working well then they
confidence and energy levels amongst the group should adapt their approach to better suit the
will influence the best approach to achieve this. needs of the group.

Good communication skills are key. The Remember that assistants can offer a valuable
foundations of effective teaching include the resource to support you with your teaching.
ability to create rapport, communicate at an Assistants are often connected with the group and
appropriate level, use positive language, provide a will know about their individual needs and
variety of demonstration techniques, check for potentially how best to deliver information to
understanding through skilled questioning and them. All instructional sessions are different due
give useful feedback and encouragement to to the nature of the group and the conditions of
individuals. the day. Instructors should reflect upon the
outcome of each session and consider changes in
In addition to these communication skills effective delivery style or content that may improve the
teaching requires instructors to be able to outcomes of the next one.
observe and assess participants’ abilities and
confidence levels. They then need to calibrate the

! KEY PRACTICE POINTS

Learn some effective games/activities to Experiment with different ways of
engage learners at the beginning of a checking for understanding.
session and to enable you to observe group
dynamics. Practise different delivery styles and
think about when/with whom you might
Make sure everyone can see and hear you use them.
clearly.

18
THE CLIMBING ENVIRONMENT – ACCESS AND ETIQUETTE AND ETHICS

SYLLABUS
11. ACCESS 12. ETIQUETTE AND
11.1. Explain an awareness of both general and locally ETHICS
important rules and regulations, and demonstrate an
ability to obtain and comply with this information. 12.1. Describe your responsibilities to the general public,
other facility users and the wider climbing community.

12.2. Operate a flexible programme of activities in order

to accommodate other site or facility users.

12.3. Describe the hazards presented to other site users

by the actions of a group, and act in such a way that these
are minimised.

19
 GUIDANCE NOTES

THE CLIMBING ENVIRONMENT – ACCESS AND ETIQUETTE AND ETHICS

You must manage your group in a manner which diminish the experience for anyone else in the
shows respect to other users of the space. You will same area.
also need to be mindful about where you would
like non-participants to locate themselves and the Each and every climbing wall will have its own
level of interaction you are prepared for them to operating procedures. These do have much
have with the group. You will need to be very clear commonality but, you should look out for any
with your group about expectations and be special conditions which apply to each venue. The
prepared to enforce these expectations in a way Association of British Climbing Walls may be a
which supports their learning and does not good source of information - www.abcwalls.co.uk

! KEY PRACTICE POINTS

Always talk to the management of a Don’t leave equipment on the ropes or
climbing wall about suitable areas to lying around on the floor/matting.
manage your group – particularly in a
bouldering wall.

Be considerate to other climbers who may

wish to climb routes/problems your group
are using. Don’t monopolise an area for
long.

20
 1 . S C H E M E P A T H W AY
CLIMBING WALL INSTRUCTOR ABSEIL MODULE – SCHEME PATHWAY

1.1. INTRODUCTION
This module is optional and is designed to equip Climbing Wall Instructors with the skills and techniques required for
managing top-roping and abseiling groups on purpose-built artificial climbing walls and structures. Awareness of the skills
outlined in the main Climbing Wall Instructor syllabus is assumed and not repeated here.

1.2. SCOPE OF THE SCHEME

A qualified Climbing Wall Instructor who has gained the Abseil Module can:
Run top-roping sessions.
Run abseiling sessions.
Manage groups safely in these activities.

TERRAIN
A qualified Climbing Wall Instructor who has gained the Abseil Module can operate on:
Indoor and outdoor climbing walls which are designed for top-roping or abseiling.

EXCLUSIONS
The scheme does not cover:
Via ferrata courses on artificial walls.

1 . 3 . S TA G E S I N T H E S C H E M E
1.3.1. Registration prerequisites:
Registration on the Climbing Wall Instructor Abseil and top roping module is given to candidates automatically when they
register on the Climbing Wall Instructor scheme.

1.3.2. Training prerequisites:

You must have completed Climbing Wall Instructor training.
You must be registered for the Abseil Module (this is added automatically when you register for the Climbing Wall
Instructor qualification).

You must have an up to date logbook (preferably DLOG) with evidence of the following:
Experience of at least 5 abseils from more than one location.

Consolidation period
Climb and abseil at as wide a range of venues as possible, both as an individual and when assisting with the
supervision of others.
Mountain Training recommends that all but the most experienced candidates allow a minimum of three months
between training and assessment.
There is currently no time limit on the validity of a training course and some candidates may take several years to
complete the module.

1.3.3. Assessment prerequisites:

You must have completed the Abseil Module training course or have been granted exemption from training.
You must have passed Climbing Wall Instructor assessment.
You must have observed or assisted on a minimum of 5 abseil/top-rope sessions.

1.3.4. First aid

Qualified Climbing Wall Instructors who have gained the Abseil Module must hold a current first aid certificate.

21
 CLIMBING WALL INSTRUCTOR ABSEIL MODULE – SCHEME PATHWAY
2. COURSE STRUCTURE
TRAINING ASSESSMENT
Training will involve a minimum of 4 hours contact Assessment will involve a minimum of 2 hours
time. contact time.

Results: Completed, Not yet completed, Results: Pass, Defer or Fail, Not yet completed,
Withdrew, Did not show, Exemption. Withdrew, Did not show.

3. COURSE DELIVERY
TRAINING ASSESSMENT
Course directors must hold the Mountaineering Course directors must hold the Mountaineering
Instructor Award or higher plus national Instructor Award or higher plus national
Mountain Training organisation requirements. Mountain Training organisation requirements.
Additional staff must be Climbing Wall Instructor Additional staff must hold the Mountaineering
or higher plus national Mountain Training Instructor Award or higher plus national
organisation requirements. Mountain Training organisation requirements.

Min. course size: 2, max. course size: 12, max Min. course size: 2, max. course size: 8, max. ratio:
ratio: 1:6. 1:4

4 . AWA R D I N G O R G A N I S AT I O N S
Mountain Training Cymru
Mountain Training England
Mountain Training Scotland
Mountain Training Board of Ireland

22
CLIMBING WALL INSTRUCTOR ABSEIL MODULE – TECHNICAL COMPETENCE

SYLLABUS
1. EQUIPMENT 2.5. Supervise others belaying.

1. Select and fit suitable climbing equipment for 2.6. Attach self and others to the belay system and abseil
top-roping and abseiling. ropes.

2. Demonstrate an ability to evaluate the condition of

personal abseiling equipment and ensure appropriate 3. ABSEILING
use, care and maintenance in line with manufacturers’ 3.1. Abseil without requiring a back-up safety rope.
guidance.
3.2. Demonstrate methods of safeguarding a novice
3. Demonstrate an ability to evaluate the condition of abseiling.
climbing wall equipment and ensure appropriate use of:
3.3. Utilise belay points for both abseil and safety ropes.
3.1. In-situ ropes.
3.4. Use common devices for abseiling competently and
3.2. Anchors/lower offs and fixed equipment. choose the most appropriate for a given situation.

3.5. Demonstrate techniques for managing the safety of

2 . B E L AY I N G participants at the top of walls.
2.1. Tie into the rope. Attach group members to the rope
with and without a karabiner.

2.2. Demonstrate the use of direct and indirect belay ROCK CLIMBING
systems at the top of a climbing wall, and choose the
Section 6.6: Equipment
most appropriate for a given situation.
Section 8.5: Abseiling in a single pitch
2.3. Set up top-rope systems and choose the most environment
appropriate for a given situation.

2.4. Hold falls and control lowers.

23
 GUIDANCE NOTES

CLIMBING WALL INSTRUCTOR ABSEIL MODULE – TECHNICAL COMPETENCE

Many of the skills required in this ‘bolt-on’ module must be able to perform as a good role model. You
spill over from those required of a Climbing Wall may choose to abseil with a French prusik back up,
Instructor. The figure of eight descender is still but also consider using a specialist abseil
probably the most used specialist abseil device protection device like a Shunt. It is important you
and an awareness of how it should be used understand the limitations of using a prusik as a
correctly and an understanding of typical misuse back-up.
should be pursued. The prusik loop will only be
required as a back-up when abseiling alone When demonstrating how to safeguard a novice
without a safety rope. there is no better way than with a safety rope from
above. You will normally be abseiling from fixed
In the case of managing abseils the instructor will platforms which have built in anchors placed at an
normally be at the top of the abseil. You should be ideal height. Some abseil towers have anchors
able to manage the abseil using a direct belay quite close to the edge and this will require
system using in-situ anchors. It is common for management to get the abseiler weighting the
students to abseil with the abseil rope clipped rope. You will need to understand the pros and
directly to their harness with a screw gate (or cons of different anchor positions.
equivalent) karabiner. Take care with long tails on
the safety knot or the safety rope twisted around You will need to be very clear when managing
the abseil. If these situations occur you should people at the top of abseils, clear demarcation of
take the time to adjust your system accordingly. areas is essential, clear instruction on how many
people should be where and the use of safety
You should be comfortable abseiling without a ropes and other means of protecting novice
backup rope; as with the climbing elements, you abseilers should be applied.

! KEY PRACTICE POINTS

When transferring people from ‘safe’ Keep the anchors, abseiler and the
ground to the abseil you should protect descent all in line to create stability.
them very carefully.

Keep your hand on the safety rope of the

abseiler at all times.

24
 CLIMBING WALL INSTRUCTOR ABSEIL MODULE

SYLLABUS
4. PLANNING AND 6. MANAGING/
STRUCTURE OF SESSIONS SUPERVISING OTHER
– MANAGEMENT AND

S TA F F
DECISION MAKING

4.1. Demonstrate an understanding of the impact of

weather when abseiling on artificial structures.
6.1. Describe the role and scope of an assistant. Describe
the opportunities and liabilities presented by using an
5. MANAGEMENT OF assistant in a session.
PA R T I C I PA N T S 6.2. Manage an assistant.
5.1. Select appropriate management techniques to
safeguard all participants, irrespective of whether or not 7. DECISION MAKING
they are directly involved with the abseiling activity.
7.1. Carry out dynamic risk assessments throughout each
5.2. Utilise effective communication skills to identify and abseiling session.
react to the needs of the group in relation to
involvement, interest, enjoyment and achievement.
8. KNOWLEDGE AND
5.3. Manage the safety of those arriving at the top of a
wall. D E M O N S T R AT I O N O F
5.4. Brief individuals and the group appropriately.
TECHNIQUES
8.1. Deliver technical abseiling instruction to individuals
5.5. Avoid common abseiling problems.
and the group.
5.6. Deal with common abseiling problems if they occur.

25
 GUIDANCE NOTES

CLIMBING WALL INSTRUCTOR ABSEIL MODULE

Outdoor abseil towers can be quite exposed to the even hair catching in the abseil device. Take care
weather, so you should dress and equip your and time to avoid this happening, make sure hair is
groups accordingly. tied back, baggy clothing is tucked securely out of
the way and there are no loose ends of rope in
You must give your group a clear brief on how the reach of the abseil device. Figure of eight
abseil is going to work so that they can visualise descenders can Lark’s foot themselves if dragged
the sequence of events. You need to identify safe over edges and jam.
zones and incorporate scope for the group to
support and photograph each other. You need to Common abseil problems can usually be prevented
be well positioned to offer support to the abseiler and are rare. If an abseiler does become stuck then
when going over the edge and to be able to by far the easiest solution is to tie off the safety
observe them down to the ground. rope and release the tension on the abseil rope.
This is easily achieved with a releasable abseil set
You should be conversant with the common up. You will need to be capable of tying off an
problems which might occur when abseiling. Italian hitch or a belay plate when it is under load
These might include loose garments, rope ends or quickly and efficiently.

! KEY PRACTICE POINTS

Practise releasing the abseil rope under load to become slick and confident at this technique - that is
reassuring to the victim and the rest of the group.

– MANAGEMENT AND
DECISION MAKING

26
 CLIMBING WALL INSTRUCTOR ABSEIL MODULE
– TEACHING AND LEARNING
SKILLS

SYLLABUS
9. TEACHING AND LEARNING SKILLS
9.1. Communicate effectively and appropriately with a group and individuals, checking for understanding.

9.2. Explain the reasons for evaluating a session and success of the outcome.

27
 GUIDANCE NOTES

CLIMBING WALL INSTRUCTOR ABSEIL MODULE

Climbing Instructors need to quickly create an Good communication skills are key. The
environment of trust and confidence within their foundations of effective teaching include the
group so that participants feel safe and ability to create rapport, communicate at an
comfortable to tackle new and challenging appropriate level, use positive language, provide a
activities. Age, ability, special needs, confidence variety of demonstration techniques, check for
and energy levels amongst the group will understanding through skilled questioning and
influence the best approach to achieve this. give useful feedback and encouragement to
individuals.

! KEY PRACTICE POINTS

A good demonstration saves a thousand words – focus on the abseiler’s posture.

Practise at ground level with novices before going to height.

–TEACHING AND LEARNING

SKILLS

28
APPENDIX 1 – ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
A P P E N D I X 1 – ADDITIONAL
I N F O R M AT I O N
COURSE DELIVERY
Mountain Training courses are delivered by approved providers throughout the UK and Ireland. Providers of Climbing Wall
Instructor courses will appoint a course director for each course.

Courses can be found by searching on the Candidate Management System (CMS) https://mt.tahdah.me or on our website
http://www.mountain-training.org/find/find-a-course.

Your training and assessment result will be recorded on the Candidate Management System (CMS).

EXEMPTION FROM TRAINING

Experienced climbers who already have substantial personal climbing experience and experience of supervising groups on
climbing walls may apply for exemption from training. To qualify for exemption candidates must, at the very least, meet the
minimum experience requirements for attendance at an assessment course and demonstrate that they have received
relevant training in the management of climbing groups and assistants.

Further details of the exemption process can be found on the Mountain Training website.

There is no exemption from assessment.

FURTHER EXPERIENCE
Once you have passed the Climbing Wall Instructor assessment you are responsible for remaining current and up to date
with good practice for as long as you are using your qualification. Mountain Training would like to encourage you to
regularly dedicate some time to your development both as a climber and as a Climbing Wall Instructor.

The Mountain Training Association is a membership association designed to support both trainee and qualified candidates
by providing access to developmental workshops, conferences and peer learning events among other member benefits.

The responsibility for ensuring that instructor receive refresher training must lie with the provider of the service, or the
individual in the case of self-employed leaders. Climbing Wall Instructors who wish to operate beyond the scope of their
qualification(s) by virtue of their additional experience and/or training, for example a Rock Climbing Instructor taking a
group climbing at a sport climbing quarry may be enabled to do so either through in-house training and/or within the
context of a site specific scheme.

Mountain Training publishes a digital document called the National Guidelines which provides advice on good practice for
anyone with a responsibility for climbing, walking and mountaineering related activities, and encompassing the principles
of safety management.

29
 CANDIDATE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM AND DLOG
C A N D I D AT E M A N A G E M E N T
SYSTEM AND DLOG
Mountain Training uses software powered by tahdah to record your journey through our schemes.

You can use the system to:

register for a qualification

search for a training or assessment course

join an association or mountaineering council

buy recommended books from the Mountain Training shop

record your experience in DLOG (the digital logbook)

access e-learning modules

https://mt.tahdah.me

LOGGING YOUR EXPERIENCE

The foundation of your success as a Climbing Wall Instructor is your experience. It is this experience that enables you to
learn from the training course, consolidate your learning, pass an assessment and then continue to develop as an instructor
and climber.

There are fourteen activities you can log, including indoor climbing, trad climbing and outdoor bouldering and all of them
start by searching the database. There are some information boxes on the screen - please read these to help with the
logging process.

Top tips:
‘Indoor climbing’ should be used to record any personal climbing or instructing/assisting on artificial structures.

You can use the ‘Frequency’ drop down to insert multiple records in one go. For example, if you ran a similar
session each week for four weeks, select ‘Weekly’ from the drop down menu, select the appropriate date range
and when you save the record, it will create four entries.

If you can’t find the climbing wall/tower/centre you are looking for please let us know and we will add it to the
database.

UPLOADING PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE

If you have recorded your experience in another format already and want to start using DLOG, you can upload your existing
logbook as a file to the Files tab. (The Files tab accepts various file formats including word, excel, pdf, jpg and png.)

Many candidates who do this also choose to create DLOG records for their most recent or most significant sessions.

SHARING YOUR DLOG

When you book on to a training or assessment course, your logbook will become visible to the course director. If you would
like some feedback prior to this, you can share your logbook with a mentor/friend/future course director by clicking on the
Share tab, entering their email address and selecting the length of time they can access it.

30
MOUNTAIN TRAINING ASSOCIATION

The Mountain Training Association is a voluntary membership organisation

designed to support candidates working towards our qualifications and
provide development opportunities for those who already have them.

It is committed to fostering progression and encouraging good practice

amongst its members so that others can enjoy professionally-led activities.

Join the MTA and get the support you need to succeed.

“The workshops I've done have been brilliant and have

definitely made me a better leader”
- Alex Kendall (MTA member, 2016)

HOW TO JOIN
Membership is annual.
WHO CAN JOIN Simply pay online via
Anyone that has registered your Mountain Training
for a Mountain Training account or visit the
qualification is welcome to join the website for more
Mountain Training Association. information.
The sooner you join the quicker
you can take advantage of all
of the great benefits on offer.

MEMBER BENEFITS
Access to accredited CPD workshops

Quarterly magazine and monthly e-newsletter

Big savings on outdoor gear and courses

Specially negotiated rates for civil liability insurance*

Online resources and guidance

Regional networking and training events

MTA branded merchandise

Advertise and promote yourself online*

Use the MTA logo to promote yourself*

*full members

19
MOUNTAIN TRAINING –
P U B L I C AT I O N S
Official handbooks to support you through our
schemes.

EBOOK EBOOK
AVAILABLE AVAILABLE

Hillwalking Rock Climbing Navigation in the Mountains

STEVE LONG LIBBY PETER CARLO FORTE
ISBN 978 0954 151195 ISBN 978 0954 151164 ISBN 978 0954 151157
Essential skills and techniques Tools and techniques for navigating in
of the Mountain Training for all aspects of single-pitch, the hills and mountains including winter,
walking schemes. multi-pitch and indoor climbing. overseas and GPS.

Winter Skills International Mountain Trekking

ANDY CUNNINGHAM & ALLEN FYFFE PLAS Y BRENIN INSTRUCTIONAL TEAM
ISBN 978 0954 151133 ISBN 978 0954 151171
An essential reference tool for every A practical manual for trekkers and leaders
mountaineer venturing onto covering all elements of international trekking.
non-glaciated snow and ice.

Available in all good bookshops and online

www.mountain-training.org