Brindille & Twig sewing pattern and tutorial

#67

scuba hood raglan

Size range: 0-3M to 5-6T : 62 to 118

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BODY MEASUREMENTS: UNITS IN INCHES AND (CM):

0-3 (62) 17.5 (44.5) 17 (43.25) 24 (62) 8.5 (21.5) 16.5 (42.25)
3-6 (68) 18.5 (4) 18 (45.75) 27 (68) 10 (25.75) 17.5 (44.75)
6-9 (74) 19 (48.25) 18.5 (47) 29 (74) 11.25 (28.5) 18 (46)
9-12 (78 19.5 (49.5) 19 (48.25) 30.5 (78) 12 (30.5) 18.5 (47.25)
12-18 (84) 20.25 (51.5) 19.75 (50.25) 33 (84) 13.5 (34) 19 (48.5)
18-24 (90) 21 (53.25) 20.5 (52) 35 (90) 14 (35.5) 20 (50.75)
2-3 (96) 21.5 (54.75) 21 (53.25) 38 (96) 15.5 (39.75) 20.25 (51.5)
3-4 (104) 22 (56) 22 (56) 41 (104) 17 (43.5) 20.5 (52)
4-5 (110) 22.5 (57.25) 23 (58.5) 44 (110) 18.75 (47.5) 20.75 (52.75)
5-6 (118) 23 (58.5) 24 (61) 46.5 (118) 20.25 (51.5) 21 (53.25)

FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS: UNITS IN INCHES AND (CM):

0-3 (62) 6.4 (16.3) 9.7 (24.6) 10.3 (26.2)

3-6 (68) 7.2 (18.3) 10.6 (26.9) 10.7 (27.2)
6-9 (74) 8 (20.3) 11.5 (29.2) 11.1 (28.2)
9-12 (78 8.8 (22.4) 12.4 (31.5) 11.5 (29.2)
12-18 (84) 9.6 (24.4) 13.3 (33.8) 11.9 (30.2)
18-24 (90) 10.4 (26.4) 14.2 (36.1) 12.3 (31.2)
2-3 (96) 11.5 (29.2) 15 (38.1) 12.7 (32.3)
3-4 (104) 12.5 (31.8) 15.9 (40.4) 13.1 (33.3)
4-5 (110) 13.6 (34.5) 16.8 (42.7) 13.5 (34.3)
5-6 (118) 14.7 (37.3) 17.7 (45) 13.9 (35.3)

Prepared exclusively for Claudia Mercedes Vecino Duque ([email protected]) Order: 250337
 Follow photos to print pattern (these photos are just an example and may not represent your pattern)
Open this file in Adobe Acrobat Reader (free program you can get here if you don’t have it yet) and scroll down
to the bottom to see the pattern.

Click the layers icon

to the left of the page.

Deselect any sizes

you don’t want to print
by clicking the ‘eye’ icon.

Go to ‘file’ then ‘print’ to open the print dialog.

Select actual size .
actual size
You can print on letter or A4 paper.

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Print the pattern- the pages should look similar to the ones below
Cut around the black outlining boxes of each page and tape them together based on the numbered circles in
the corners.

This is what pattern 67 will look like after being fully taped together.

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FABRIC / MACHINE / NOTION REQUIREMENTS
FOR THIS TUTORIAL

BASED ON FABRIC 58” (147cm) WIDE

Medium weight knit fabric. Cotton/lycra jersey

or french terry work well.

¾ YARD FOR SIZES UP TO 2-3T

1 YARD FOR SIZES 3-4T to 5-6T

Fabric for the waistband, cuffs, hood lining and pocket

lining. Lightweight rib knit or a
medium weight stretchy jersey.

½ YARD ALL SIZES

Sewing machine

Serger/overlocker

Scissors or rotary cutter

Pins

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Step one: front
back

-From your main fabric:

Cut out the front, back and 1 pocket piece
on the fold.
Cut out 2 hood pieces and 2 sleeves.
(opposites by cutting 1 with the pattern
facing up and 1 with the pattern facing down)

From the contrasting fabric: sleeves

Cut out the waistband and 1 pocket
piece on the fold.
Cut 2 wrist cuffs
and 2 hood pieces. (1 right and 1 left)
Optional is the arm seam edging detail.
I cut mine 5/8” (1.6cm) wide and about 10”
(25cm) long to have plenty of length.
waistband

hood

shoulder seam
details

pocket

wrist cuffs 4 strips- 5/8” x 10”

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Step two:
-Start with the 2 pocket layers.
Place them together with the
right sides of the fabric laying
together. The wrong side of
the fabric will be
showing on both sides.
Sew them together
leaving the bottom seam open.

-Trim the corners of the seam

allowance down to 1/8” (2mm)
or a little smaller.

-Turn pocket right side out and

sew along the the slanted
edges to keep pocket flat.
Sew right along the edge.

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-Lay the pocket on the front
of the sweatshirt so the bottom edge
is pointing toward the top.

Lay it 1.25” (3.2cm) up from the waist and

pin in place.
Center it by using the notches as
guides. The right side of the
pocket will be face down
against the right side
of the sweatshirt front.

Pin

-Sew it to the front

along the bottom edge of
the pocket. 1/4”(6mm) in from
the edge.

-Fold the pocket up onto the

sweatshirt and pin at the top and
both sides.

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 -Sew pocket to the
sweatshirt by sewing along
the sides bottom and
top.
LEAVE the slanted
edges open!

Step three:

-For the (optional) shoulder seam

detail, take one of the strips of
fabric you cut out,
fold it in half width-wise so
you have a folded edge running the
length of the binding.
Sew it along one of the front arm seam
edges. Make sure the folded
edge is laying toward the center and
the raw edges are lined up
with the raw arm seam
edge.
Sew about 1/8” (2mm) in from the
edge.

Do the same to the front and

back arm seam edges. 4 total.

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Step four:

-Locate the sleeve front edge. The front -Lay it on top of the sweatshirt matching the
edge of the sleeve is lower than the back edge. arm seams. Right sides of fabric together!

-Serge the sleeve to the sweatshirt -Open to see the binding exposed along the seam.

-Locate the opposite sleeve front edge -It should look like this. Now locate the back side
and serge it on the same way. of the sweatshirt.
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 -Sew the back arm edges to
the back edges of the sleeves.

Step five:

-Fold the sweatshirt on itself

to line up the side seams. -Sew both side seams closed.

my seam
direction
on all 4 arm
edges
-If you did the arm seam detailing,
I recommend paying attention to
the direction the arm seam lays.
You will run into it at the armpit while
sewing the side seams.
I like to face them all in the same
direction so the binding lays in the
same direction on the outside.

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Step six:

grainline

-Serge your wrist cuffs and waistband -Fold them in half so the wrong
closed, parallel to the grainline. side is folded onto itself and it forms a
cuff.

-Place the wrist cuffs inside the sleeve

so all raw edges are matched up. The
folded edge will be inside the sleeve.

-Place the waistband inside the waist.

Pin waistband seam to center back notch.
Pin waistband notch to center front notch.

-Sew the cuffs and the waistband to the

sweatshirt by stretching them to fit
and sewing in a complete circle.
They will look like this when completed
and pulled out

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Step seven:

-Sew both hood layers together by -Turn one layer right side out.
laying them right sides together and
sewing along the head curve.

-Place the right-side-out layer -Sew the layers together around the
inside the other layer so the front curve.
right sides are hidden.

-Match the pieces at the center

-Sew them together.
of the neck, so they are right side
together.

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 -Turn hood right side out by folding -The center of the neck should look
the inside layer into the outside layer. like this. The bottom of the hood will be
open still.

-Place the hood inside the neck of

-Sew the hood on, all the way around the
the sweatshirt so all raw edges are lined up.
neck. Pay attention to the arm seam
Pin the center back seam to the center
directions here too!! I make sure they
back notch. Pin the center neck seam
are laying in the same direction as
to the center front notch.
they are at the armpit.

-Pull the hood out

to look like this.
Turn sweatshirt
right side out,

Then you’re done!

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 Place the labeled
‘fold line’ along the folded edge
of the fabric. Cut out the pattern
piece through both layers of fabric
and open to get a full piece
Fabric folded over

Folded edge

After being cut out Needs to be clipped when cutting

the pieces out. It will be indicated by a small line at the
place that it needs to be marked. Example:
center of a pants waist or center neck of
a front piece. Mostly used when a piece
is cut on the fold. Although, may be used at
other times as well. You will
make a 1/8” (2mm) cut into the fabric at
that point. It will be used to match pieces
later.

Full piece opened after being cut out

For some
pieces, a right and a left side
need to be cut. Example: Hoods,
some pants and some sleeves.
To get the opposite pieces, cut 1
with the pattern facing up like the first photo
and 1 with the pattern facing down like the second photo.
You can also cut once on a piece of fabric that’s been folded
over to get 2 layers.

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 Grainline is very important because it affects the way your fabric stretches.
If the grainline is vertical, the stretch is horizontal.
In most cases the stretch should be horizontal ‘going around the body’ so the
grainline should be vertical.
If the grainline isn’t easily visible you can see it better when you stretch the fabric .

Cut edge

grainline direction
Piece of fabric
selvage edge

selvage edge
stretch direction

Cut edge
The selvage edge will usually be kind of stiff
with some holes in it from the manufacturing
process.
The grainline runs parallel to the selvedge edge.

Meaning, the right sides of the fabric will be laying

together. This is the way most seams are sewn so the seam is on the wrong side of the fabric.
Assume that the fabrics will always be right-side-together unless otherwise specified.

Prepared exclusively for Claudia Mercedes Vecino Duque ([email protected]) Order: 250337
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Property of Brindille and Twig 2015

This pattern may not be published on the internet or otherwise, it may not
be copied, duplicated or distributed in any form.
This pattern is protected under copyright.

Prepared exclusively for Claudia Mercedes Vecino Duque ([email protected]) Order: 250337