Point Wise Zara
Point Wise Zara
Inditex Overview:
Inditex, a Spanish company, owns Zara and five other apparel retailing chains.
Fiscal year 2001 (ending January 31, 2002) results:
o Net income: €340 million.
o Revenues: €3,250 million.
Founder’s Success:
Growth Challenge:
Case Structure:
Key International Competitors(See Exhibit 5 for a positioning map and Exhibit 6 for financial and other
comparisons.)
1. Overview of Competitors:
o Inditex's three closest competitors: The Gap, H&M, and Benetton.
o All three had narrower vertical scope than Zara.
o The Gap and H&M outsourced all production and owned most of their stores.
o Benetton invested heavily in production, with stores run by licensees.
2. The Gap:
o Founded in 1969, based in San Francisco.
o Known for T-shirts, jeans, and "smart casual" work clothes.
o Outsourced over 90% of production outside the U.S.
o Limited international expansion due to difficulties in adapting to different markets.
o Faced supply chain issues, market saturation, and a failed fashion repositioning.
o Experienced a significant decline by the end of the 1990s and into 2001.
3. Hennes and Mauritz (H&M):
o Founded in 1947 in Sweden.
o Outsourced all production, with half to European suppliers.
o Internationalized quickly, generating over half of sales outside Sweden by 1990.
o Focused on entering one country at a time, with an emphasis on northern Europe.
o Operated a single format but marketed clothes under various labels.
o Lower prices than Zara, extensive advertising, and less frequent store refurbishments.
o Experienced a fashion miss and slowed U.S. expansion efforts.
4. Benetton:
o Founded in 1965 in Italy, known for brightly colored knitwear.
o Prominent in the 1980s and 1990s for controversial advertising and a network
organization.
o Outsourced labor-intensive activities but invested heavily in controlling other production
activities.
o Stores run by licensees, leading to longer lead times.
o Faced saturation and declining profitability in the 1990s.
o Adopted a strategy of narrowing product lines and consolidating production activities.
o Started a program to set up larger company-owned outlets in big cities, with about 100
megastores by 2001.
Inditex Overview
1. Company Profile:
o Global specialty retailer.
o Products: apparel, footwear, accessories for women, men, and children.
o Operates Zara and five other chains.
o At the end of the 2001 fiscal year, operated 1,284 stores worldwide with a total selling
area of 659,400 square meters.
o 515 stores outside Spain, generating 54% of total revenues (€3,250 million).
o Workforce: 26,724 employees (10,919 outside Spain), average age 26, 78% women.
2. Employee Distribution:
o 80% in retail sales.
o 8.5% in manufacturing.
o Remaining in design, logistics, distribution, and headquarters activities.
3. Capital Expenditures:
o 80% on new-store openings.
o 10% on refurbishing.
o 10% on logistics/maintenance.
o Plans for 2002: €510–560 million capital expenditures, mainly for opening 230–275 new
stores.
4. Financial Performance (2001): (See Exhibit 7 for these and other historical financial data.)
o Gross margins: 52%.
o Operating expenses: 30% of revenues (half related to personnel).
o Operating margins: 22%.
o Net margins: Half of operating margins.
o Net income: €340 million from operating profits of €704 million.
5. Home Base: (see Exhibit 9) (see Exhibit 2)
o Headquarters in Galicia, Spain.
o Galicia: High unemployment (17% vs. national average 14%), poor communication
links, dependent on agriculture and fishing.
o Apparel tradition dating back to the Renaissance but lacks strong textile base,
sophisticated local demand, technical institutes, and industry association.
o Transport costs are a significant concern.
6. Early History: (A timeline, Exhibit 8, summarizes key events over this period chronologically.)
o Founder: Amancio Ortega Gaona.
o Started Confecciones Goa in 1963, first Zara store opened in 1975 in La Coruña.
o By the end of the 1970s, half a dozen Zara stores in Galician cities.
o Expansion into Spanish cities with more than 100,000 inhabitants by the 1980s.
o Began international expansion and investments in manufacturing, logistics, and IT in the
1990s.
7. Company Structure (2002): (as illustrated in Exhibit 10) (see Exhibit 11).
o Operated six chains: Zara, Massimo Dutti, Pull & Bear, Bershka, Stradivarius, Oysho.
o Chains organized as separate business units with six business support areas and nine
corporate departments.
o Retailing generated 82% of net income.
o Coordinated activities, especially in real estate and expansion, with recent focus on
multichain locations.
8. Governance Changes:
o Initial public offering (IPO) in May 2001, selling 26% of shares, founder retained over
60% stake.
o Implemented a social strategy involving dialogue with stakeholders and joining the
Global Compact in August 2001.
o Initiatives included an internal code of conduct, corporate responsibility department,
social audits, and developmental projects
Largest Inditex Chain: At the end of 2001, Zara operated 507 stores worldwide, with
significant capital investment and high EBIT and sales figures.
Growth Strategy: Zara's international expansion and emphasis on quick fashion responses were
crucial to Inditex’s growth and international presence.
Spanish Market Completion: Zara completed its Spanish market rollout by 1990.
International Expansion: Began overseas expansion around 1990.
Investments: Major investments in manufacturing logistics, IT, and a centralized distribution
system in Arteixo.
Logistical Innovations: Established a just-in-time manufacturing system and advanced
telecommunications for coordination.
Internal Manufacturing: Zara produces its most fashion-sensitive products internally and has
significant vertical integration.
Production Model: Small batch production and quick response time. Designs move from
creation to stores in 4-5 weeks for new designs and 2 weeks for modifications.
Design Process: 11,000 distinct items annually, with a focus on fast, trend-driven production.
External Suppliers: 40% of garments made internally; remainder sourced from Europe, North
Africa, and Asia. Long-term relationships with about 20 main suppliers.
Fabric Sourcing: 50% of fabric is “gray” for flexibility. Fabric processed through Comditel for
dyeing and finishing.
Production Distribution: 40% of finished products manufactured internally; 60% sourced
externally (2/3 from Europe/North Africa, 1/3 from Asia).
Distribution Center: Centralized 400,000 sq. meter facility in Arteixo; shipments made twice a
week to stores with efficient logistics and minimal storage time.
5. Retail Strategy
Store Locations: Prime locations and sophisticated store designs. Focus on creating a sense of
urgency and exclusivity.
Merchandising: Broad, changing product lines with high fashion content. Frequent product
turnover (75% of merchandise updated every 3-4 weeks).
Advertising: Minimal media advertising (0.3% of revenue). Emphasis on store presentation and
word-of-mouth.
Sales and Markdowns: Limited markdowns (15-20% of sales) compared to competitors.
Strategies to minimize unsold inventory.
6. Store Operations
Store Design and Layout: Prime locations, high visibility, and attractive presentations. Store
sizes increased from 910 to 1,376 sq. meters.
Store Management: Centralized decision-making with store managers responsible for orders,
customer feedback, and store performance. Managers receive a mix of fixed and performance-
based compensation.
Employee Training: Comprehensive training programs for store managers, with a focus on
internal promotion and on-the-job training.
Design Teams: Teams for women’s, men’s, and children’s clothing. Designers track trends and
create collections for two main seasons.
Product Lifecycle: Constant adaptation of designs based on real-time store data and fashion
trends.
Sample Testing: Limited production of new designs in select stores based on positive consumer
reactions.
Growth Options: (See Exhibit 17 for data on European markets along some of these and other
dimensions.)
o Focus on Europe for sustained growth.
o Limited growth options in Spain (6% market share).
o Example: Italy, a large market with high per capita apparel spending.
o Challenges in North America (retail overcapacity, less fashion-forward) and Asia
(competitive).
Geographic Focus:
o Important to decide future geographic focus for Zara's expansion.
Management of Non-Zara Chains:
o Non-Zara chains have proliferated but some are of subcritical scale.
o Need to manage multiple chains without compromising the excellence of individual
chains.
o Geographic scope is broad, adding to the complexity.
Considerations for New Chains:
o Decision whether to start up or acquire additional chains.
o Top management's revenue growth rate requirement: 20%+ per annum.
Sales and Growth Metrics:
o Recent like-for-like sales growth: 9% per year.
o Future expectation: Might fall to 7% or even 5%.
o Annual increase in selling space required: 15%.
Maintaining Margins:
o Need to preserve margins despite the growth requirements.
o Address threats to the sustainability of Inditex's competitive advantages.
Management Insights:
o A roundtable video of Inditex's top management provides further insights on these issues.
Source: Casewriter compilation of data from Gary Gereffi, “International Trade and Industrial Upgrading in the Apparel Commodity Chain,”
Journal of International Economics 48 (June 1999): 37–70.
Source: Casewriter compilation of data from: Werner Stengg, “The Textile and Clothing Industry in the EU,” Enterprise Papers No. 2,
June 2001; and http://europa.eu.int/comm/enterprise/textiles/statistics.htm, accessed December 17, 2002.
21
703-497 ZARA: Fast Fashion
Source: Inditex.
22
ZARA: Fast Fashion 703-497
PRICE +
Benetton
Bershk
a
PRICE -
Note: Zara, Massimo Dutti, Pull & Bear, Bershka, and Stradivarius were separate Inditex chains, as described in the
Other Statistics
Employees 166,000 22,944 6,672 26,724
Number of Countries of Operation 6 14 120 39
Sales in Home Country (%) 87% 12% 44% 46%
Sales in Home Continent (%) NA 96% 78% 77%
Number of Store Locationsc 3,097 771 5,456 1,284
Stores in Home country (%) 87% 15% 40% 60%
Stores in Home Continent (%) 92% 96% 80% 86%
Average Store Size (sq. meter) 632 1,201 279 514
SM
Sources: Compiled from annual reports; analyst reports; Bloomberg; Standard & Poor’s Compustat® data via Research Insight ; J. P.
Morgan, “Hennes & Mauritz,” company report, February 10, 1999, p. 89, Compustat.
a
On May 22, 2002.
b
In-home currency.
c
Includes franchised stores.
ZARA: Fast Fashion 703-497
Source: Inditex.
703-497 ZARA: Fast Fashion
No. of
Year Stores Event
1963 Establishment of Confecciones Gao, S.A. Beginning of the company’s activities
1975 2 Opening of 1st Zara store in La Coruña
1976 2 Establishment of Goasam as the owner of the Zara chain stores
Purchase of 1st computer
1985 37 Reorganization of group structure with Inditex at the apex
1988 71 Formation of Zara B. V. in the Netherlands as holding company for international
activities
1989 88 International rollout begins with opening of a Zara store in Portugal
1990 105 Opening of fully automated 130,000-square-meter central warehouse
Joint venture with Toyota (Japan) introduces just-in-time system at one of the factories
1991 218 Establishment of commercial office in Bejing to handle purchase of supplies in Asia
Diversification into new segments
Acquisition of 65% of Massimo Dutti
Implementation of telecommunications system between headquarters and the supply,
production, and sales centers
Launch of the Pull & Bear chain
1993 369 Preparation/implementation of expansion plan for Zara in the French market
1995 508 Acquisition of all of the share capital of Massimo Dutti
1996 541 Expansion of central warehouse to cope with the increase in the number of points of sale
Source: Inditex.
ZARA: Fast Fashion 703-497
Source: Adapted from The Encyclopedia of World Geography (New York: Barnes and Noble, 1996).
703-497 ZARA: Fast Fashion
Stradivarius Oysho
Acquired in 1999 Inditex's newest chain
100 stores in 7 countries 25 stores in 6 European countries
Youthful urban fashion Latest trends in lingerie
For young men & women, ages 15-25 Quality products at reasonable prices
Web link: www.e-stradivarius.com Web link: www.oysho.com
Source: Inditex.
28ZARA: Fast Fashion 703-497
Source: Inditex.
703-497 ZARA: Fast Fashion
Design
Distribution
Source: Casewriter.
Source: Inditex.
Exhibit 14 Globalization of Inditex
Zara Stores
1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 Only (2001)
Europe
Spain 57 70 85 99 201 266 323 350 391 399 433 489
769 603 692 225
Portugal 1 2 4 11 17 28 38 49 60 74 87
140 97 104 38
France 1 3 5 13 20 30 36 47 55
68 59 64 67
Greece 1 6 8 10 14 17
29 17 19 20
Belgium 4 8 11 13 17
28 20 21 14
Sweden 1 3 3 4 6 3 6 5 0
Malta 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 0
Cyprus 1 2 4 9 5 8 2
Norway 1 1 1 1 1 0
Great Britain 111 3 7 11
Germany 17 2 7 15
Netherlands 6 2 2 3
Poland 2 2 2 2
Andorra 2 1 1
Austria 3 3 3
Denmark 2 1 2
Czech Rep. 1 1
Iceland 1 1
Ireland 2 0
Italy 3 0
Luxembourg 2 1
Subtotal 57 71 87 104 215 288 365 419 490 521 589 678 819 939 1101 406
Americas
United States 1 1 3 3 3 4 6 6 7 7 6 6 8 8
Mexico 1 1 7 12 14 20 25 29 41 55 27
Argentina 4 8 8 8 8
Venezuela 1 3 4 20 7
Canada 1 3 4 4
Chile 2 2 3 3
Brazil 3 5 7 7
Uruguay 2 2 2 2
Subtotal 0 0 1 1 3 4 4 11 18 20 27 37 54 71 107 66
Middle East/Asia
Israel 6 16 22 23 24 9
Lebanon 1 3 4 4 2
Turkey 3 3 4 5 5
Kuwait 1 2 4 4 2
United Arab Emirates 1 3 5 15 4
China 1 1 0 0 0
Japan 10 11 17 5 5
Saudi Arabia 3 11 14 6
Bahrain 1 1 2 1
Qatar 1 2 1
Jordan 1 0
Subtotal 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 6 33 49 70 76 35
TOTAL 57 71 88 105 218 292 369 430 508 541 622 748 922 1080 1284 507
Source: Inditex.
31
703-497 ZARA: Fast Fashion
Spain 100%
United Kingdom 151%
Denmark 153%
Poland 158%
Cyprus 136%
Lebanon 152%
Kuwait 171%
Saudi Arabia 170%
Bahrain 170%
Qatar 160%
Canada 178%
USA 209%
Mexico 164%
Venezuela 147%
Japan 231%
Source: Inditex.
Source: Inditex.
32
This document is authorized for use only in Prof. Rohit Kumar's Executive MBA 2023-25/ Cooperative and Competitive Strategy at Indian Institute of Management - Ranchi from May 2024 to Nov 2024.
This document is authorized for use only in Prof. Rohit Kumar's Executive MBA 2023-25/ Cooperative and Competitive Strategy at Indian Institute of Management - Ranchi from May 2024 to Nov 2024.
703-497 -33-
Total Sales Apparel Outlets per Specialist Share of Specialist Sales Total GNP Population GNP per Distance from
(€ billion) Million Inhabitants Apparel Sales (%) (€/sq. meter) (€ billion) (million) Capita (€) Spain (km)
Source: Compiled from Verdict, Retail Intelligence, and UBS Warburg estimates
This document is authorized for use only in Prof. Rohit Kumar's Executive MBA 2023-25/ Cooperative and Competitive Strategy at Indian Institute of Management - Ranchi from May 2024 to Nov 2024.