wool

index

PRIMORDIAL WARMTH....,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, 3
FLOCK TO FABRIC.......................... 5
A PRACTICAL HAIR......................... 7
ANIMALS FOR ETHICS....................... 9
A RANGE OF WARMTH...................... 11
THE HISTORICAL......................... 13
THE VINTAGE............................ 15
THE CONTEMPORARY....................... 17
WOOL SWATCHES.......................... 19

2
 A RESTRICTED HERD
In order to manage the wealth closely, Spain levied
the death penalty on anyone exporting sheep until
1786. Within that year King Louis XVI exported
nearly 500 Merino ewes to breed with sheep on his
estate in Rambouillet in Northern France. This
resulting wool from the Rambouillet breed is one
of the most highly desirable because of its fine
and long staple wool. England froze its borders
to raw wool exports. England’s King Edward III,
or “the royal wool merchant” also put a stop to
woven good exports and domestic weaving of foreign
PRIMITIVE DISCOVERIES
wools. He then invited flemish weavers fleeing the
The story of wool goes back to the days of the primitive
Spanish invasion to settle in England where the
man. Wild sheep were killed for food, and so naturally the
wool industry had been thriving. By 1660, wool
wooly skins were found to be used as a durable fabric which
textile exports were two-thirds of Englands foreign
supplied protection from weather and severe temperatures.
commerce. Pelts were worn in Britan as far back as
These findings trace back to Asia Minor during the Stone
the late Bronze Age (3000 BC), however, England’s
Age nearly 10,000 years ago. Later man began to discover
wool empire peaked during the reign of King Henry
spinning and weaving and thus woolens became part of the
VIII. This was because he had seized the flocks of
riches of Babylon. The sheep used for wool clothing and
sheep from the monasteries and redistributed them
the warmth of the fiber allowed for man to spread into
to court favorites. Shepherds consequently were to
colder climates of the Mesopotamia.
be sent to prison for their inibility to pay their
debts. This is one of the causes for immigration
THE FLOCKS GLOBAL CONQUER into the New World.
The Persians, Greeks, and Romans dispersed the sheep
and wool throughout Europe between 3000 and 1000 BC. The
Romans specifically had their sheep accompany them wherever
they built their empire into what is now Spain, North
Africa, and on the British Isles. They then established a
wool plant in what is now Winchester, England. The nomadic
people of Syria conquered Spain in the 8th century and
created an extensive wool export trade agreement with
North Africa, Greece, Egypt, and Constantinople. After the
Norman conquest of Greece in the 12th century, it caused
a stimulation in weaving in Florence, Genoa, and Venice.
They sent hundreds of Greek weavers as slaves to Palermo,
and their work was then copied by Italian weavers.
The thriving wool trade helped finace Columbus’ voyages
as well as the Conquistadores.

3
 primordial warmth

WOOL IN THE NEW WORLD

Columbus brought sheep to Cuba and Santo Domingo on his second voyage to the New World in 1493. Cortez also
took flocks along when he explored the territories of now Mexico and southwestern United States. The Navajo and
other Southwest Indians are noted for their woolen rugs and colorful wall hangings. England had attempted to
discourage a wool industry in North America, but only a few smuggled sheep had multiplied to around 100,000 by
1665. Massachusetts had then attempted to pass legislation requiring all young people to spin and weave this
excess of wool. King George III of England decided to make wool trading in the Colonies a punishable offense.
This policy was one of the many other oppressive actions that provoked the Revolutionary War in America.
The Wool industry began to flourish dispite the kings attempts to disrupt wool comemrce. George Washington
and Thomas Jefferson maintained flocks of sheep and new inventions like the spinning jenny, combing machines,
and water powered looms expanded the industry rapidly. At the turn of the 18th century small flocks of sheep in
the hands of the poneers started wool industry into Australia, New Zeland, and South Aftica.

4
 WOOL PRODUCTION
The processing of wool is broken up into four major steps. First comes shearing, followed by sorting and
grading, making the yarn, and lastly making the fabric.

SHEARING THE SHEEP

The first step in wool production is sheep shearing.
In most parts of the world sheep are sheared once a year
in early spring or summer. The best wool is found on the
shoulders and sides of sheep. Power shears are used to
remove the fleece from the live sheep. Wool is also removed
from sheep that are slaughtered for meat. This is treated
chemically and referred to as pulled wool. It is considered
to be lower quality than the wool from live animals.

GRADING AND SORTING

After removing the fleece from the sheep, workers
then begin to remove any stained, damaged, or inferior
wool and sort the rest according to fiber quality. These
fibers are judged on factors such as strength, fineness
(diameter), length, crimp, and color. The wool is then
sorted and seperated into sections of differing quality.

SCOURING AND CARDING

Wool is scoured with alkaline detergents to remove
the yolk and impurities. After drying, the wool is carded.
This process involves passing the wool through rollers
of thin wire teeth. These teeth untangle the fibers and
arrange them into a flat sheet called a web. The web is
then formed into narrow ropes called silvers. This stage
of wool is called raw wool, or grease wool.

flock to fabric
5
 WORSTED AND WOOLEN YARN MAKING THE FABRICS
The processes used in making yarn vary slightly, Wool manufacturers then kit or weave yarn into
depending on the length of fibers. Carding length a variety of fabrics. Wool can also be dyed and
fibers are used to make woolen yarn. Combing length undergo finishings to give them the desired look and
fibers and French combing lenth fibers are made into feel. The finishing of fabrics made of woolen yarn
worsted yarn. Woolen yarns are heavier, softer and begins with fulling which involves wetting the fabric
have a fuzzier surface than worsted. Worsted wool is thoroughly with water and then passing it through
lighter and highly twisted, but it is also smoother rollers. Fulling makes the fibers inerlock, mat
and less bulky, making it easier to transport. Making together, shrink, and gives additional strength and
worsted wool requires more extensive processing. Fibers thickness. Worsted wools go through a process called
are arranged parallel to each other. The smoother the crabbing where the fabric passes through boiling
hard-surface worsted yarns, the smoother the wool it water then cold water to strenghen the fabric.
produces. Fine worsted wool can be used in athletic
attire becasue of its heat resistance and breatheable
and absorbant nature.

SPECIALTY HAIR FIBERS:

SPECIALTY HAIR FIBER SOURCE CHARACTERISTICS
ALPACA Alpaca- South American branch of the camel Noted for its luster, fineness, softness, and durability
family (Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador, and Argentina)
CAMEL HAIR Two humped Bactrian camel (Central Asia) Weak fiber the tabards easily; usually used in the natural
tan color
CASHMERE Kashmir (Cashmere) goat (Himalaya Mountains of Extremely fine fiber; drapes well; outstanding softness;
India, China, and TIbet; also raised in Iran abrades easily
and Iraq)
NEW ZELAND CASHGORA Angora gote sire and Cashmere goat dam (New Similar to mohair with low to medium luster; seldom found
Zealand) outside New Zealand
GUANACO Guanaco(South America) Similar to alpaca
LLAMA Llama (Andes Mountains) Similar to alpaca
HUARIZO Llama sire and alpaca dam Similar to llama
MISTI Alpaca sire and llama dam Similar to llama
MOHAIR Angora goat (South Africa, United States) Especially good for novelty loop yarns; very good abrasion
resistance; slippery; smooth hand; good luster
QUVIUT Domesticated musk ox (Alaska) Provides exceptional warmth
VICUNA Vicuna- South American camel family (Andes Weak fiber with smooth hand and high luster; softest;
Mountains) finest, and most expensive textile fiber; usually used in
the natural tan color

6
 CHEMICAL STRUCTURE THE BENEFITS OF WOOL
Wool is a natural protein fiber that • Resists Wrinkles
grows from the follicles of the sheep’s • Resists Soiling
skin. It is like human hair in that it • Durable
is composed of keratin type proteins. • Repels Moisture
Chemically, these proteins contain • Retains Shape
five elements: carbon, hydrogen, • Resists Flames
oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur. These • Comfortable in all Seasons
elements are combined into 19 amino
acids linked together in polypeptide FIBER ABSORBENCY
chains Wool is considered to be a hygroscopic
fiber; it takes up moisture in vapor
form. Tiny pores in teh epicuticle
DURABILITY AND RESILIENCE make the fiber semi-permeable,
Wool fibers are molecular coils allowing vapor to pass through teh
that make the fiber incredibly elastic. ehart of the fiber. Wool can easily
The chemical polypeptide chains in absorb up to 30% of its weight in
the fiber back upon themselves to moisture without feeling damp or
act as a spring which elongates clammy. The capacity to absorb
and retracts. This molecular crimp makes wool a “temperature regulator”
FELTING ABILITY
allows fibers to be stretched up to because it can protect the body in
The structure of the outer scaly
50% when wet and 30% when dry and both cold and warm conditions. Wool
layer of wool gives its ability to
bounce back to their original shape always absorbs moisture from humid
felt. Under the agitation, friction,
when released. Unfortunately when atmospheres and releases it to the
and pressure with heat and moisture, the
wool fibers are wet they become weak. drier environment as it creates a
scales interlock, preventing the fiber
Elastic recovery takes place more balance in moisture conditions. This
from returning to its original position.
quickly in humid environments, so characteristc makes wool a versatile
Felting shrinkage is irreversible. This
steaming wool garments will freshen fabric perfect for all seasons. It
ability to felt can be an advantage as
the fabrics and are recommened for also absorbs perspiration well and
well as a disadvantage. Felting that
pressing wool. This flexibility also keeps a layer of dry air next to the
is called fulling or milling can create
makes it more durable. A wool fiber skin to help hold in body heat. When
a softer finish for woven fabrics and
can be bent back onto itself more atmospheric moisture is absorbed, the
can provide for a wide variety of
than 20,000 times without breaking. hydrogen bonds are broken and react
industrial uses. The disadvantage of
This natural elasticity makes wool chemically with the wool molecules to
felting is that it makes the washing
fabrics resistant to tearing. Also generate heat. This makes wool a good
of wool fabrics difficult. Treatments
the outer skin of the wool fiber acts protector against hypothermia, and
have been developed to prevent felting
as a protective film, giving wool heat. Wool expodites the evaporation
shrinkage that will allow fabrics to
cloth greater abrasion resistance. of perspiration.
be machine washed.

7
 FLAME RESISTANCE
Wool contains moisture in each fiber, so naturally it resists flame without any chemical treatment. Instead
fo burning freely when touched by flames, wool chars and stops burning when it is removed from the flames.
Wool is self-extinguishing. It will not support combustion and this is why wool blankets are recommended for
use in extinguishing small fires.

DYING ABILITY
Wool absorbs many dyes deeply, uniformly, and directly without the use of combining chemicals. It is
amphoteric which means that it reacts with both acids and bases alloing it to accept acid and basic dyestuffs.
Dyes penetrate into the inner medulla core of the fiber where a reaction occurs to make the color change
permanent except under extreme and prolonged fading conditions.

COMPRESSION RESISTANCE
Compression resistance values are used to asses the suitability of wool for specific end uses. It is the force
per unit area required to compress a fixed mass of wool to a fixed volume. It is related to fiber diameter and
the form and frequency of crimp. Low and medium R to C wools tend to be softer, more lustrous, more susceptible
to felting, easier to process and produce strong fabrics. High R to C wools have a harsher handle, and are
resistant to felting and are bulkier

a practical hair
8
 animals for ethics

ANIMAL CRUELTY
Shearers are usually paid by volume, not by the hour, which encourages fast work without regard for the
welfare of the sheep. Shearers have been witnessed punching sheep with shears or fists and shearing sheds can
be considered one of the worst places in the world for animal cruelty. When the sheep begin to produce less
wool, millions each year are loaded onto extremely crowded, multitiered cargo ships and sent on terrifying
journeys to the Middle East or North Africa, where their throats are cut while they are still conscious. In
Australia where more than 50% of the worlds merino wool is produced, lambs are forced to endure a gruesome
procedure called “mulesing” which is an attempt to smooth the genetically modified wrinkly skin of the lamb
that collects urine and moisture in which flies and maggots are attracted to. Mulesing is a procedure that
restrains live sheep onto their backs and then huge chunks of skin are carved away from the animals backsides
without any painkillers. Other times, vise like clamps are attached to their flesh until it dies and sloughs
off. Sheep can be spared maggot infestation through humane methods such as diet regulation, spray washing, and
breeding other types of sheep better suited for the Australian climate.

9
 ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACTS
Fecal matter from sheep contaminates waterways in areas
where sheep are farmed. Manure generated from livestock has
significantly contributed to the increase in atmospheric
greenhouse gasses over the last 250 years. In that time, the
concentration of methane has increased by more than 130 percent
in the U.S. “Enteric fermentation,” or livestock belching
and passing gas, accounts for roughly one-quarter of annual
agricultural methane emissions. In New Zealand, methane emissions
from enteric fermentation, coming mostly from sheep, make up
more than 90 percent of the nation’s greenhouse-gas emissions.
Sheep “dip,” which is a toxic chemical used to rid sheep
of parasites, presents disposal problems and can harm the
environment. The scouring, or washing, water uses detergents and
other chemicals in order to remove contaminants in the greasy
wool, which creates the problem of disposing of the waste water
without contaminating the environment. In unmodified plants, a
single scouring line produces a pollution load equivalent to
the pollution produced by 30,000 people. The traditional method
of wool scouring uses large amounts of water to wash the wool.
Typical scouring plants can consume up to half a million litres
of water per day.
Lastly, large areas of land are cleared in order to make
grazing lands for the sheep. The sheep are normally introduced
species into certain areas of the world, so they have an effect
upon the local wildlife.

ECO-WOOL
The International Wool Textile Organization (IWTO) has
adopted a new organic wool standard (closely aligned with GOTS)
which they hope will be accepted by its members. In addition,
many companies use the term “eco wool”, which means the wool
is sheared from free range roaming sheep that have not been
subjected to toxic flea dipping, and the fleece was not treated
with chemicals, dyes or bleaches – but this is wide open to
interpretation and exploitation. According to the IWTO, “Eco
wool” must meet the standards set by the EU Eco-label.

10
SPECIFIC APPAREL USES

• Sweaters
• Dresses
• Coats
• Suits
• Jackets
• Pants
• Boot Linings
• Socks
• Hats
• Scarves

11
a range of warmth
THE USE OF WOOL

People have been utilizing wool for thousands of years for both
decorative and functional purposes. Today, essentially every wardrobe
contains woolen garments, plus garments that contain wool along with
some other natural and or synthetic fiber. This fiber has a number of
advantages, including durability, flexibility, and water resistance.
Varying grades of wool can range from extremely soft fibers which can
be used against the skin to more coarse fibers which are more suited
to tasks such as stuffing and insulating. The variety of uses of wool
ensure that every little is wasted. Currently, about 90% of the wool used
by U.S. mills is used as apparel wool in the production of worsted and
woolen fabrics. American sheep producers provide about 20% of the total,
the balance being imported primarily from Australia and New Zealand.

12
 wool tartan
Tartan, arguably the best-known cloth in the world, is not peculiar to Scotland, although it has become the
country’s national costume, occupying a unique place in its history. From the times of the early clansmen through
to the traditions of the modern Highland regiments, the kilt, plaid and tartan have constituted the unmistakable
costume of the Highlander. It has come to be linked with the virtues of courage and hardiness, with love of an
area and with the music, poetry and culture of the Highlands.
Many aspects of tartan and Highland dress are controversial and the subject is surrounded by a number of
myths. For example, the word ‘tartan’, now associated by most people with the precisely patterned, intricately
cross-barred and multicoloured cloth, is itself a matter for argument. Some authorities claim it derives from
the IrishScots words tuar and tan - meaning ‘colour’ and ‘district’ respectively. An Old Spanish word of similar
root, tartana, which means ‘shiver’, and refers to a very fine, quality cloth, has been proposed as yet another
possible source. The Gaelic word for tartan is breacan, meaning ‘chequered’, ‘variegated’ or ‘speckled’. tartan
is generally defined as a fabric woven in bands of coloured yarn that repeat in sequence, not only across the
width but along the length of the cloth. A new hue is formed wherever bands of a different colour cross.
There were normally six main stages in weaving tartan: gathering the wool, preparing the fibres by combing
it to the desired texture for soft or hard tartan, and spinning by a method involving a drop spindle, or distaff
and spindle, in which the yarn or thread was spun by the fingers and wound round the bottom of the spindle. (This
was later replaced by the spinning wheel, and ultimately by modern machinery.) The wool was then dyed, woven and
finally stretched.

the historical
13
1 ITALIAN SELVEDGED TARTAN WOOL TWILL
100% Wool. 60” Wide.
Britex Fabrics
[Link]
WOOL-PLAI-16-PURIVR60

14
15
1 ITALIAN WINTER WHITE BASKET-WEAVE
chanel tweed
100% wool. Open weave midweight The iconic Chanel tweed jacket, which was invented in the 1920s,
fabric. 60” Wide. was one example of the way in which her designs were so different than
Britex Fabrics those of her predecessors. The jacket was designed to give the wearer
[Link] a freedom of movement that had never before been experienced while
NOVL-WOOL-04-IVR60 wearing such a garment. Coco Chanel famously borrowed the masculine
tweed fabric even though it was a considered a cheap fabric. Coco Chanel
was selective, she adored the fabric and only used tweed produced by
the Duke of Westminster’s factory. She then lined the jacket in fur
in order to increase the cost and subsequently its status. It was
structured to feel like a cardigan, rather than a restrictive suit
2 jacket. The differentiation were the silk lining stitched directly to
WOOL BOUCLE
the tweed, boxy cut and the three-part construction of the sleeves.
100% wool. 58” Wide.
In the 50s and 60s, Chanel reintroduced the Chanel jacket in pastel
Measure Fabric Parlor
colors. The Chanel suit became a status symbol for a new generation,
JS301
with its slim skirt and collarless jacket trimmed in braid, gold
buttons, patch pockets, and,sewn into the hem, a gold-colored chain
ensuring it hung properly from the shoulders. It is still reworked
throughout collections by Karl Lagerfeld. The remarkable thing about
Chanel’s novel tweed jacket is that the style has proved to be so
enduring. Season after season, decade after decade, the Chanel suit
continues to be one of the trademarks of good taste and style.

The vintage
16
 the contemporary
THE USE OF WOOL

Thom Browne is still best known as a menswear designer, and the fundamentals of menswear are channeled
through his clothes for women as well. Any lady on the hunt for the perfect, tailored, gray flannel blazer will
have no trouble finding it here. Perhaps a nod to his beginnings in menswear, Browne worked with a variety of
traditional wool suitings in patterns, including Prince of Wales, houndstooth, checks, and a variety of plaids.

1 WOOL COATING
100% Wool. 60” wide.
1 Measure Fabric Parlor
JS290

2
DASH CHECK SUITING
100% Wool. 60” Wide.
Measure Fabric Parlor
JS207

17
3
HOUNDSTOOTH WOOL BLEND
Wool/polyester blend. 58” Wide.
Britex Fabrics
[Link]
WOOL-PLAI-08-BLKWHT58

4 DESIGNER PLAID SHETLAND WOOL

100% Wool. 60” Wide.
Britex Fabrics
[Link]
WOOL-PLAI-45-BRN60

thom browne
pre-fall 2013
18
 WOOL
SWATCHES
 ITALIAN BOILED WOOL
1 100% wool. Mid weight hand boiled. 52” Wide. 1
Made in Italy.
Britex Fabrics
[Link] WOOL-BOIL-05-BRN52

2
MIDWEIGHT PLAID RAYON BLEND
Wool/Rayon blend. 58” Wide.
2
Britex Fabrics
[Link] WOOL-PLAI-42-BRN45

3
HEATHERED PLAID WOOL FLANEL
100% Wool. 60” Wide.
3
Britex Fabrics
[Link] WOOL-PLAI-12-BRNGRY60

4
ENGLISH DORMEUIL CAMEL HAIR WOOL COATING
100% Dormeuil Camel. 58” Wide.
4
Britex Fabrics
[Link] WOOL-COAT-09-BRN58

STRIPED WORSTED WOOL SUITING

5 100% Worsted Wool. 60” Wide. 5
Britex Fabrics
[Link] WOOL-SUIT-06-BRN60

21
 MIDWEIGHT CLASSIC WOOL CAVALRY TWILL
6 100% Wool. 62” Wide. 6
Britex Fabrics
[Link] WOOL-MILT-16-BRN62

MIDWEIGHT HERRINGBONE WOOL RAYON BLEND

7 Wool/Rayon Blend. 60” Wide. 7
Britex Fabrics
[Link] WOOL-MILT-20-IVR60

3MM NATURAL WOOL FELT

8 100% Wool. 24” Wide. 8
Britex Fabrics
[Link] WOOL-FELT-NAT24

OCHER SILK & WOOL TWEED

9 Silk/Wool Blend. 60” Wide. 9
Britex Fabrics
[Link] WOOL-TWEE-05-BRNBLK60

MIDWEIGHT HERRINGBONE TRICOTINE

10 100% Wool. 55” Wide. 10
Britex Fabrics
[Link] WOOL-MILT-31-BLK55

22
 MIDWEIGHT STRETCH WOOL BLEND
11 97% wool/3% lycra. 60” Wide. 11
Made in Italy
Britex Fabrics
[Link] WOOL-MILT-55-PNK60

12
HERRINGBONE ALPACA
100% Alpaca. 45” Wide. Made in USA.
12
Britex Fabrics
[Link] WOOL-HERR-03-BRNIVR45

13
NATURAL FLOCKED WOOL COATING
100% Wool. 60” Wide.
13
Britex Fabrics
[Link] WOOL-COAT-26-IVR60

14
MIDWEIGHT WOOL & LAMBSWOOL TWEED
100% Wool. 56” Wide.
14
Britex Fabrics
[Link] WOOL-TWEE-19-BRN56

HEATHERED CAPPUCCINO VIRGIN WOOL COATING

15 100% Wool. 58” Wide. Made in Austria. 15
Britex Fabrics
[Link] WOOL-COAT-40-BRN58

23
16 BABY LAMA COATING
100% baby Llama. 62” Wide. Made in Italy. 16
Britex Fabrics
[Link] WOOL-COAT-54-BLK62

17 STRETCH WOOL & CASHMERE BLEND

94% wool, 5% cashmere, and 1% lycra. 58” Wide. 17
Made in Italy.
Britex Fabrics
[Link] WOOL-MILT-99-GRY58

18 WINDOWPANE CHECK WOOL CREPE

100% Wool. 59” Wide. 18
Britex Fabrics
[Link] WOOL-PLAI-44-IVRBLKRED59

19 MIDWEIGHT TROPICAL WORSTED WOOL

100% Wool. 61” Wide. 19
Britex Fabrics
[Link] WOOL-MILT-115-GRY61

20 SUPERFINE WOOL GABERDINE

100% Wool. 61” Wide. 20
Britex Fabrics
[Link] WOOL-SUIT-28-BRN61

24
 HEAVYWEIGHT UNIQUE BROCADE WOOL BLEND
21 91% wool, 9% silk . 58” Wide. 21
Britex Fabrics
[Link] NOVL-WOOL-50-BLKIVR58

22
STRIPED MOHAIR COATING
100% Mohair. 64” Wide. 1” long pile.
22
Britex Fabrics
[Link] WOOL-COAT-60-ORGBLK64

23
CRINKLED FEATHERWEIGHT SHEER WOOL
100% Wool. 47” Wide.
23
Britex Fabrics
[Link] WOOL-MILT-104-BLK47

24
DESIGNER OPEN WEAVE WOOL
27% wool, 13% polyamide, and 11% acrylic blend.
24
58” Wide. Made in Italy.
Britex Fabrics
[Link] NOVL-MISC-02-BLK58

SUPER 100 STRIPED WORSTED WOOL SUITING

25 100% Worsted Wool. 61” Wide. 25
Britex Fabrics
[Link] WOOL-SUIT-09-GRNGRY61

25
 morgan mccarty
fash 105-05
introduction to textiles
professor stephanie foy