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INDEX
PAGE

LIGHTING 4

LIGHT AND HOW WE SEE 6

COLOUR PROPERTIES OF LIGHT 10

COLOUR TEMPERATURE 10

COLOUR RENDERING 13

NATURAL LIGHT 15

EVALUATING NATURAL LIGHT LEVELS 17

ARTIFICIAL LIGHT 21

SOURCES OF ARTIFICIAL LIGHT 22

SITE ANALYSIS 30

MOUNTING OPTIONS 31

TYPES OF LIGHT FITTINGS 32

LIGHT LEVELS 42

HOW LIGHT IS MEASURED 42

DESIGNING WITH LIGHT 48

TYPES OF ARTIFICIAL LIGHT 48

LIGHTING DESIGN 54

LIGHTING THE HOME 61

THE FRONT DOOR 61

ENTRANCE AND HALLWAY 62

LIVING ROOMS 63

KITCHEN 64

DINING ROOM 65

BEDROOMS 66

BATHROOMS 67

STAIRS 68

EXTERIOR LIGHT FITTINGS 68

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ELECTRICAL, LIGHTING AND HOME TECHNOLOGY 72

THE SMART HOUSE 73

COMMUNICATING WITH YOUR BUILDER 75

LIGHTING AND ELECTRICAL PLANS 77

POWER OUTLETS 82

SYMBOLS USED TO CREATE A REFLECTED CEILING PLAN 85

LIGHTING SYMBOLS 86

ASSIGNMENT FIVE 90

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LIGHTING

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LIGHTING
Consistent with many of the other components of a complete interior design, natural and
artificial light are both functional and aesthetic considerations in every design.

We all know that light is essential to see and work.

It can also interrupt some uses for a space, such as eastern light through the curtains in a
bedroom at sunrise.

Light can also be used as a purely decorative element, to cast shadows on a flat surface, to
create the illusion of architectural interest or to illuminate a feature wall or a ceiling in order
to create a sense of space.

The creative use of windows and reflective materials opens a range of possibilities for natural
light.

There are endless applications and types of artificial lights.

These provide a universe of practical and decorative possibilities.

Good lighting design can make the difference between a room that is bland and one that is
full of atmosphere and interest. As a designer, you can harness the creative potential of light
to transform spaces and take your projects to another level.

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LIGHT AND
HOW WE SEE

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LIGHT AND HOW WE SEE
Light is one of the most important and dramatic elements of design. Without light, there is
no colour.

Light is necessary to define space and form, enhance colour and reveal texture.

The human eye and brain together translate light into colour using sensors in the retina of
our eyes; rods, (which are receptive to amounts of light) and cones (which are sensitive to
colours).

Colour may be described as an impression of visible radiant energy of certain wavelengths.

Visible light waves are the only electromagnetic waves we can see.

Each of these colours has a different wavelength on the electromagnetic spectrum. Red has
the longest wavelength at 740nm, and violet has the shortest wavelength at 380nm.

When all the visible waves are seen together, they make white light.

When light is directed through a transparent material, such as glass, its speed is slowed
down.

If the light rays can be bent, for example through a glass prism, when the light emerges
from the other side, it will have been divided into individual colour waves.

These are seen as a distinct range of colours, which are always in the same order: red,
orange, yellow, green, blue and violet and are known as the colour spectrum.

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When light strikes a surface, waves of certain lengths are absorbed and others reflected.
It is the reflected waves, which are picked up by our eyes and registered by the brain as
colours.

In the example above,

■ White light falls onto the red surface of the apple.

■ The surface of the red apple absorbs all of the orange, yellow, green, blue and violet
colored light rays.

■ Red light is reflected to the human eye, which then sends a message to the brain
that the object is ‘red’.

Note that an object appears white when it reflects all wavelengths and black when it
absorbs them all.

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LIGHT REFLECTANCE AND DISTRIBUTION

The way in which light is reflected off the walls, ceiling and floor of a room is affected by

■ The colours – dark or light

■ The surfaces – matte or gloss

■ The textures – rough or smooth

■ The patterns – bold or subtle

All finishes will absorb or reflect light in differing amounts. Plush, pile and textured surfaces
absorb more light than smooth, glossy and reflective surfaces.

Regardless of the surface, dark colours absorb more light than light colours. You can use
these effects to your advantage to create the desired end result.

A media room with audiovisual equipment may have plush dark walls and dark upholstery
fabric on the furniture to help improve the acoustic quality of the space and make it feel like
a home theatre experience.

Much of the light will be absorbed by the dark colours, so a mix of ambient and accent
lighting is required to enhance viewing, prevent eye strain and make the room easy to move
around in, both before and after a movie.

Conversely, reflective materials such as mirrors, gloss paints, polished and metallic fabrics,
crystal light fittings and metallic surfaces can create dramatic effects in a night club or bar,
reflecting light around the space in interesting ways.

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COLOUR
PROPERTIES
OF LIGHT

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COLOUR PROPERTIES OF LIGHT
Natural light is constantly changing and varies throughout the day from sunrise to sunset.
It is also influenced by the weather.

These different ‘colours’ of light are measured on the Kelvin temperature scale.

COLOUR TEMPERATURE

This is the warmth or coolness that is perceived by the appearance of the light emitted from
a light source.

It can also be referred to as Colour Appearance and Correlated Colour Temperature (CCT),
and the value is expressed as Degrees Kelvin (K).

Why is the colour produced referred to as temperature?

The process of turning heat energy into light energy is called incandescence.

As the temperature is increased, the energy moves into the visible spectrum and the object
appears to have a reddish glow.

As the object gets hotter, the colour changes to “white hot” and eventually to blue.

The lower the temperature measured in Degrees Kelvin the warmer the light will appear to
be, and the higher the Degree Kelvin the cooler the light will appear to be.

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It is important to understand colour temperature because many types of artificial light are
now available in a range of colour temperatures for different lighting purposes.

Humans see colour first and tone second, and therefore, we are more sensitive to colour
than we are to the amount of light.

If you are producing a lighting design for a client’s home, it is important to use a colour
temperature of their own preference as the main priority and adjust the amount of light to
suit the task.

The source of the light will also have an impact on the colour temperature that is produced.

■ Incandescent and Halogen produce light naturally using heat, and the colour
temperature for these types is fixed.

■ LED and Fluorescent are man–made and artificially produce a range of colour
temperatures.

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The following guide is for optimum lighting colour temperatures to be used in the home,
but at all times, you are to consult with your client about colour preference and apply this
to the design.

If you intend to use multiple colour temperatures in the one home, it is important that they
are isolated to separate rooms. For an open plan room, such as a kitchen and dining room,
try to use the same colour temperature.

‘Warm White’ (2700K – 3000K)

Light has the same colour temperature as a standard Incandescent or Halogen bulb. 3000k
is the most popular colour temperature used for residential interiors because it is warm but
not as yellow as 2700k. This is the ideal colour to create a relaxing environment where the
quantity of light is not as important in rooms such as living rooms, bedrooms, hallway and
media rooms.

‘Cool White’ (4000K)

The higher colour temperature of the light makes it appear whiter and bluer, which makes
it easier to see contrast and the ideal colour for task areas in the home. Cool white light is
most commonly used in the study, kitchen, bathroom, laundry, garage and reading lamps.
Because the colour is close to natural sunlight, it is a good selection for rooms that have
limited or no natural lighting as it will compensate for the lack of natural sunlight.

‘Daylight’ (5000K and above)

This colour temperature is the closest to natural sunlight and offers very bright, white light
that is tinged with blue. for most people, it is too overwhelming to be used for the interior
of a home. This colour light is used for special applications such as reading lamps, task
lighting, garages or workshops.

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COLOUR RENDERING

A Colour Rendering Index measures the ability of a light source to accurately render the
colour of an object in comparison with a natural light source.

Colour appearance is the colour of the light that the source emits.

Colour Rendering Index is the effect that the light has on the colour of a surface.

CRI is measured on a scale from 0 to 100 with 100 being the ideal. The higher the number,
the ‘truer’ the colour of the object that is being illuminated, making it appear more vibrant
and less grey.

The CRI for Incandescent and Halogen light bulbs are rated as 100, whereas the CRI for LED
and Fluorescent sources can vary from 60 to 100.

The image below is a rendering of how CRI can affect the colour of the object a light bulb
is illuminating.

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NATURAL
LIGHT

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NATURAL LIGHT
At the outset of a design project, part of the initial assessment of a space requires the
designer to evaluate the amount and direction of the available natural light.

It is essential to know whether or not the space will be lit or in shadow at various times of
the day and throughout the seasons of the year.

The available natural light affects nearly every choice you will make as a designer. Your
choice of wall colour and finish will be affected.

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Your choice of textiles in a space will also be affected by the availability of natural light, what
time of day it shines in the space and from what direction.

You will have to take all of these considerations into account as part of the decision-making
process regarding fabric colour and the fibre composition of the fabric.

Silks, non-colourfast colours and antique vegetable-dyed fabrics will all fade in direct
sunlight. Antique rugs may look wonderful in a room with a view of the sunset, but the rugs
will likely be damaged from fading.

Space planning and the placement of furniture, objects and art will also be dramatically
affected by the orientation of light.

The choices made in regard to window size, window treatments, exterior awnings, overhangs,
screens, window boxes, indoor/outdoor balconies, terraces and deck decor are the most
directly related to the light, its orientation and the amount of light passing through a given
window.

Overhangs, awnings, louvered shutters, motorised blinds, blackout blinds, fully lined curtains
and upholstered screens are all excellent ways to block out invasive light.

Sheer curtains, sheer blinds, cut-out screens, louvered blinds and louvered shutters are all
effective ways to filter light.

Enlarging windows, removing window treatments and lining window recesses with reflective
surfaces are effective ways to increase levels of natural light.

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EVALUATING NATURAL LIGHT LEVELS

To evaluate light levels and light quality, you must take note of the orientation of the
building. This is a significant planning issue for architects and designers, as it not only has
an effect on light levels, but also on heat, shadows and the choices of materials and finishes
one may make for both exterior and interior spaces.

In Module 4, we learned about the importance of the orientation of a building to maximise

the passive solar gains of the home in winter and minimise them in summer.

■ In summer, the east and west sides of the home receive the most amount of direct
sunlight.

■ For countries located in the Southern Hemisphere, in winter, the north receives the
most amount of direct sunlight. This is reversed for countries located in the
Northern Hemisphere where the southern side will receive the most amount
of sunlight in winter.

Our perception of colour is also affected by the time of day.

■ Daylight at noon tends to be cool.

■ Daylight in the early morning and late afternoon tends to be warmer yellow.

■ Daylight in the evening tends to be a warmer orange-red.

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Think about how you would design window treatments or a space plan for a bedroom facing
due east. Now consider how differently you may feel about a breakfast room with the same
orientation. How will that same room feel by the afternoon?

If your windows face west, you will see a redder or more orange light.

A room with this orientation will be in shadow until the afternoon. This light is often warmer
because the sun tends to heat up the air as the day goes on.

If you are in a cool climate, that can be an advantage. If you are in a warm climate, western
light may cause discomfort due to the extra warmth. Because both eastern and western
light gets very low to the horizon (when the sun is rising and when it’s setting), the angle of
light from both these orientations can reach very deep into a room.

You need to be aware of this when you specify window treatments, fabrics and the positioning
of some artworks. This is the light that can cause colours to fade and cause certain fabrics
to degrade, such as silk or prints that aren’t colourfast.

It is also the light that can create dramatic shadows that can be used for great effect or that
may be neutralised with artificial light if the shadows impinge on any tasks for which the
space will be used.

By the same token, you may be considering what to do with a space that has no light or
very obstructed light.

In many urban settings, window orientation can be nullified by a large building next door.

Also, window tints over which the occupant has no control, such as in a tall building, can cast
a grey or blue tint through the space.

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Skylights, light wells, clerestory windows, mirrors and other reflective material in window
recesses are some of the devices a designer can employ to manipulate natural light to a
variety of effects in a space.

SKYLIGHTS

LIGHT WELLS CLERESTORY WINDOWS

The constraints of natural light quality in the raw space must be assessed to be able to know
what can and must be done to achieve the desired design goals.

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ARTIFICIAL
LIGHT

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ARTIFICIAL LIGHT
Artificial light, on the other hand, has no constraints.

When the sun sets, there are many ways to create drama and excitement in rooms that may
have less of a light advantage by day.

While some spaces are blessed with spectacular views day and night, even an ordinary
suburban lawn or high rise balcony can become an exciting view or focal point with
thoughtfully placed objects, wall washers and spotlights.

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SOURCES OF ARTIFICIAL LIGHT

There are four main sources of artificial light used for residential lighting:

■ Incandescent

■ Halogen

■ Fluorescent

■ LED

In lighting terms, if the fixture requires a separate light source, it is called a “Lamp”, but for
most people, these are commonly referred to as a globe or bulb.

INCANDESCENT

This type of lamp uses a process called Incandescence to produce light. Electricity travels
through a wire (tungsten filament) creating heat until the filament reaches a high enough
temperature that it starts to glow (emit light), and the higher the temperature, the more
light it produces.

The filament is enclosed in a glass enclosure with gas to protect the wire filament and allow
it to get hotter and reduce blackening on the inside of the glass.

The process of Incandescence is thermal radiation, and, when used as a light source, they
are incredibly inefficient with about 90% of the energy consumed generating heat and only
10% producing light. Not only are they inefficient, but they also have a short life span of
1000 hours.

Incandescent GLS Lamp (General Light Source)

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HALOGEN LIGHTING

Halogen lighting is a more evolved form of Incandescent lighting. The filament is wound
tighter and enclosed in a small glass capsule containing high-pressure gas. This capsule sits
inside a separate glass housing with another layer of gas. The design change allows the wire
to burn brighter and longer with less electricity, offering some energy savings (around 30%)
compared to an Incandescent lamp.

They have twice the lifespan of the Incandescent lamp and rated to last approximately 2000
hours. They come on at full brightness, making them a great option for sensor lights.

They are sometimes marketed as an energy-saving lamp, and although they do offer some
energy savings when compared to Incandescent, there are more energy-efficient forms of
light sources available in LED and Fluorescent.

Halogen GLS Lamp (General Light Source)

Because Halogen (just like Incandescent lighting) generates heat to produce light, they are
incredibly hot, and when installed as a recessed downlight, they should have an enclosure
called a “Heatsink” to protect them from direct contact with the material in the ceiling (like
insulation) to avoid them causing a fire.

Halogen Downlight

Example of a “Heatsink” protector that is used to

house a recessed Halogen downlight

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FLUORESCENT LIGHTING

Fluorescent lamps work by ionizing mercury vapour in a glass tube. This causes electrons in
the gas to emit photons into UV frequencies, and the UV light is converted into visible light
by using a phosphor coating on the inside of the tube.

The downside to the process is the time it takes for the lamp to warm up and reach full
brightness, making them unsuitable to use for sensor-activated lights that require immediate
full brightness.

Fluorescent lamps require a separate mechanism to start this process. The old separate
starter types would start by flicking on and off in rapid succession, but the newer types with
an electronic ballast do not flicker.

They are an excellent energy-saving option using 80% less electricity than Incandescent
lamps to produce the same amount of light. They have a very long lifespan, and, depending
on the type of Fluorescent, they are rated to last between 8000hrs and 14000hrs.

Compact Fluorescent Lamp used as a GLS Lamp

(General Light Source)

LED

LED is an acronym for “Light Emitting Diode” and is made up of a computer chip (Diode)
suspended in silicon with a colour coating. Because of the way they are made, LED diodes
do not produce heat. Unlike Halogen and Incandescent lighting, the extra heat will cause the
LED to fail, and often you will find that manufacturers include a fan or “Heatsink” into the
lamp of fixture to push the heat away from the diodes to keep them cool.

These types of lights can be used as a recessed light and are not a fire hazard like Halogen
lights are. In simple terms, LED lights are just a computer chip and electro-tonic equipment
and would emit the same amount of heat as a TV or computer.

LED’s will always require a “Driver” to operate, and the driver will dictate if the LED is
dimmable or not. If you are looking to use them on a dimmer, always check with the supplier
if they can be dimmed.

They come on at full brightness, making them a great option for sensor activated lights.

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LED’s are the most energy-efficient source of light available for residential properties, and as
an example, a 10w LED lamp will produce the same amount of light as a 100w Incandescent
lamp. Along with the improved efficiency, they also have a long lifespan of 30,000hrs in
lamp form or 50,000hrs as an integrated fixture.

Examples of LED lamps used as GLS (General Light

Source)

LED replacement lamp for recessed downlights

INTEGRATED LED LIGHTS

Previously, all lighting fixtures would require a separate lamp (bulb) to operate, and when
the lamp expired, a new one could be installed. In more recent times, manufacturers have
found it more beneficial to “Integrate” the LED light source with the fixture.

All LED lights require a driver to operate. For separate lamps, the driver and heat management
need to be small enough to fit into the lamp. But, by integrating the LED light into the
fixture, they have more space inside the fixture to house the driver and allow for more
airflow around the diode to protect it from overheating.

These changes mean that the diode is more protected and able to produce a higher output
of light, and the lifespan is almost double the life of a separate lamp.

The benefits of using an integrated LED fixture are

■ Longer lifespan

■ Higher Lumen output

■ Less power to achieve the same light output

■ Physically smaller fixtures

■ A longer warranty of 5 to 7 years

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The downsides to using an integrated LED fixture are

■ Colour temperature is determined by the manufacturer and cannot be changed at a

later date

■ Lumen output is fixed

■ Dimmability is determined by the driver and fixed

■ If the LED light source (lamp) fails, the entire fixture will need to be replaced

Example of LED Driver locations

Example of LED’s used in interiors

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LIGHT SOURCE COMPARISON GUIDE

Each type of light source has both advantages and disadvantages, so it is important to
compare the types and use this information to make an informed decision.

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TYPES OF LAMP BASES

For lighting fixtures that require a separate lamp to operate, the lamp base information will
be supplied with the product specifications.

The lamp base will be written as a code (i.e. E27), and you will then be able to use this code
to purchase a lamp of your choice (i.e. E27 LED).

It is common to see a “Maximum wattage” rating (for example Max 60w) label directly
on the fixture or with the product specification. This rating is used to indicate the heat
resistance that the fitting can handle because the higher the wattage, the more heat is
travelling through the lamp.

This rating does not apply to the “brightness” of the lamp because this is measured separately
as Lumens (covered in more detail later in this module).

Here is a list of the most common type of lamp bases used for residential lighting.

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SITE ANALYSIS

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SITE ANALYSIS
The type of lighting fixture will often be dictated by the building that we are installing it
into. Therefore, it is important to conduct a site analysis of the building and room interior to
assess its suitability before embarking on a lighting design.

The site analysis should include the following

CEILING HEIGHT

Factors to consider for tall, void, staircase or double-height ceilings

■ Suspended pendant light drop length will need to be longer than standard.

■ Can you reach the fixture to change the bulb?

■ Tall ceilings require more light fixtures to achieve the same lighting levels because
the light itself needs to travel further and fill a bigger volume of space.

Factors to consider for shorter ceilings

■ In a thoroughfare area, the fixture itself should not hang lower than 2100mm from
the ground, and it’s better to measure the maximum drop distance allowed
beforehand and make your selection using this.

■ For areas that are not used as a thoroughfare, like over the kitchen island benches,
dining tables and bathroom vanity, the fixture can be suspended lower than
2100mm.

CEILING ACCESS

Can the ceiling cavity be accessed by an electrician? Generally speaking, these types of
ceilings will not allow access, meaning the placement and quantity of the existing and/or
new lighting fixtures will be fixed in their current position. It will also reduce or eliminate the
ability to “recess” lighting fixtures into the ceiling.

Examples are

■ Concrete and raked ceilings

■ Apartment buildings

■ Decorative ceilings, i.e. pressed metal ceilings

■ Multiple storey building - lower floors will have little to no cavity

■ Obstructions - ducting, shutes, access tunnels and other recessed fixtures

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ROOM FUNCTION

What is the room used for? Is it a task area like a kitchen? Or for relaxation like a living
room?

Task areas suit fixtures that provide direct lighting, whereas areas for relaxation are better
for indirect lighting.

ROOM SIZE

Is the room large or small? If you intend to install multiple types of fixtures, it is better to
limit this to 2 types for a small room, whereas in a larger room you can use more.

BUDGET

The cost of the fixture and quantity required to reach the optimum lighting levels will
vary depending on the fixture type, and the client’s budget will need to be taken into
consideration.

MOUNTING OPTIONS

Determining how the new fixture will be installed to the ceiling or wall will also be a
consideration and are defined by three types of mounting options:

RECESSED AND SEMI RECESSED

■ Part of the luminaire will sit inside the ceiling or wall cavity.

■ Some of the ceiling or wall will need to be removed to make room for this.

SURFACE-MOUNTED

■ Product is to be fixed onto the surface of the ceiling or wall.

PENDANT

■ Also known as drop cord light or chandelier.

■ Luminaire is suspended from the ceiling.

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TYPES OF LIGHT FITTINGS

There are several different types of light fittings available.

FLUSH MOUNT

■ Also known as ceiling buttons, domes, CTC (Close to Ceiling) or oyster lights.

■ They are surface mounted.

■ They provide good ambient light.

■ They come in a wide range of styles available.

Examples of decorative flush mount fixtures

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DOWNLIGHTS

■ Surface-mounted, recessed or partially recessed in the ceiling (semi-recessed).

■ Direct light downwards.

■ Can provide ambient lighting by adding dimmers to adjust lighting.

■ Many fittings required to give even light throughout a room - several

recessed downlights required to get the same light coverage as one surface
mounted light of the same amount of illumination.

■ Can be fixed, or adjustable with a directional gimble which allows light to be

directed in different directions to highlight walls, artwork or different features.

Example of poor lighting design with Example where the downlights have
too many downlights installed in a room been used to create a feature light.
with reflective surfaces.

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PENDANT LIGHTS

■ Also known as drop cord lights and chandeliers.

■ Fixture is suspended from the ceiling.

■ Styles range from ornate chandeliers to inexpensive rice paper shades.

■ Diverse range of traditional, modern and contemporary decorative fittings available.

■ Because it hangs down into your line of vision, a pendant will automatically become
a focal point in the room.

■ The amount of light produced by the pendant varies greatly and will sometimes
need to be supplemented with other forms of lighting in the room to create
more light.

The shape and style of the pendant will dictate the direction that the light is projected. For
example

■ Directed up onto the ceiling is called a “ceiling washer” or “uplighter” because the
light essentially washes over the ceiling to provide a softer for more indirect light
onto the occupant below. This type of fixture is a good choice for rooms where
ambience and relaxation are a priority. This type of fixture is also a great choice for a
room with a decorative ceiling because the extra light will create contrast to highlight
the feature.

■ Downward direction pendants push the light down and are good for task areas like
kitchen benches and study desks. They are not a good choice for general lighting
and will need to be supplemented with other types of lights (i.e. mix
with downlights) to avoid creating contrast where you do not want it.

■ Non directional styles will allow the light to travel in all directions and are a better
choice for more general lighting.

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Choosing a pendant with the correct scale is important, and it will need to be in proportion
to the room that it is viewed in.

WALL LIGHTS

■ Also known as wall sconces.

■ They are surface mounted.

■ Depending on the style, light output and position, they can be used as a general,
accent or task light.

■ Style should either be matched with pendant fitting or have similarities if both used
in the same room.

■ Can be positioned on either side of artwork, fireplace or beside a bed but once
installed, will limit future options.

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WALL WASHERS

■ They are surface mounted.

■ The fixture sits close to the wall, and the light source is washed over the wall to
provide a soft indirect glow. The light that it produces becomes the feature (not the
fixture).

■ Can be used to highlight a textured wall because of the contrast it creates.

Some wall lights are available in a plaster finish so that you can paint them to create a
minimal design that focuses all of your attention onto the light output.

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INGROUND UPLIGHTER

■ They are recessed into the floor or ground for exterior application.

■ They are made with a thicker material to withstand foot and vehicle traffic.

■ They are available as a spotlight or as a continuous LED strip light.

■ They are positioned close to the wall so that the light washes over the wall.

■ The light itself becomes the feature, not the fixture and can highlight the texture of
the wall by creating contrast.

■ Care needs to be taken to avoid glare by positioning the light close to the wall and
reducing the light output so it is not so bright to cause discomfort.

LED Strip lighting is flexible and can

be moulded around any shape. In this
Inground spotlights have been used to example, the light is used to highlight
highlight the texture of the wall and the the shape of the steps and texture of
light itself. the wall.

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SPOTLIGHTS

■ They are surface mounted onto the ceiling or walls.

■ They give a precise, controlled beam of light.

■ The fixture is adjustable to allow the light to be directed onto a surface.

■ They are used for task lighting or to highlight an architectural feature or artwork.

■ Care needs to be taken to avoid glare when positioning the light.

Spotlights are a great choice to highlight artwork.

BAR SPOTLIGHT

■ They are surface mounted.

■ Multiple spotlights are fixed onto a bar.

■ Variety of options are available from 2 lights up to 10 lights.

■ Good option to increase the amount of light for homes with restricted ceiling access.

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TRACK LIGHTS

■ Track can be surface mounted, recessed into the ceiling or suspended by

suspension cables.

■ Track components are sold separately, and the system is totally customisable to any
length and shape.

■ Once the track has been installed by a licensed electrician, the track heads are DIY
and can be added, moved or removed by anyone.

■ Good option for homes with limited wiring because the track requires only one
wiring point and can be joined together to achieve any length.

Track lighting is a great choice for task areas but care needs to be taken that it does
not become the focal point.

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LED STRIP LIGHTS

■ They can be surface mounted or recessed.

■ They are made up of individual LED diodes attached to a strip that contains a circuit
to link the diodes together.

■ Length of LED strip is totally customisable, and they can be joined together to make
it longer or cut to length.

■ Separate housing can be purchased called “LED Extrusion” to hold the LED strip
and has a diffuser to hide the individual diodes.

■ Available for indoors or with an IP rating to install outdoors.

■ Different colour temperatures and brightness levels to suit any application.

The flexibility of the LED strip has made it a popular choice for a variety of lighting

applications around the home.

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LIGHT
LEVELS

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LIGHT LEVELS
Different spaces require different light levels. This is why using several different lighting
effects in a given space is advisable. With the use of dimmers, you have many options to
adjust the amount of light and create flexibility for a space.

The level of tasks performed will dictate the amount of light required, along with your
client’s personal preference of brightness levels. All will need to be taken into account when
calculating the amount of light.

HOW LIGHT IS MEASURED

Previously, our choice of light source was limited to Incandescent and Halogen, and when
describing brightness, people would commonly do this by describing it in wattage used, i.e.
40w. Now that we have several options available to us, we cannot describe it in this way,
but instead, use the correct terminology to describe brightness.

The light output of an artificial light source is measured in lumens. The light level or amount
of light falling onto a surface, also called illuminance, is measured in lux.

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The amount of lux achieved varies according to the number of lamps used, the brightness of
the lamps, the distance of the lamps from a surface and whether or not the light is diffused
in some way.

For maximum energy efficiency, homes should be designed to make the most of natural
light and sun during daylight hours.

Artificial lighting is necessary for safety and comfort at times when natural lighting is not
available or adequate for specific tasks.

LUX REQUIREMENTS

Residential lighting does not have any formal requirements for minimum lux levels, and the
information on the subject varies greatly.

To calculate the amount of light required, we need to identify what the space is to be used
for and the level of task that is to be performed in the space.

For example, the kitchen has the highest level of task in the home and therefore should be
the brightest whereas a hallway has no level of task and only requires the minimum amount
of light for safe passage.

The guide below on residential lux levels provides us with a good idea on how to adjust the
lighting levels for each type of room based on the level of task performed.

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 RESIDENTIAL LUX LEVELS

Sourced via Beacon Lighting

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CALCULATING LUX

Calculating lux accurately can be complex because of the variables involved, and the factors
affecting lux are outlined as follows:

■ Height of the ceiling in the room.

■ Brightness of the colours used in the room.

■ Texture of materials used in the room.

■ Lumen output of the light source in the room.

■ Luminaire design and the direction that the light moves.

Recessed downlights are a popular option for lighting the home, and calculating the correct
amount to install is an important part of lighting design.

Lighting designers use software to calculate exact lighting levels, but for residential lighting
design, this level of detail is not required. Another option is to manually calculate the
number of fixtures required to achieve an average lux.

This calculation does not take all factors affecting the quantity of light into account, such as
colour, texture, level of reflectance from the materials used in the room, but it will provide
you with a general number to base your lighting design on.

FIXTURE CALCULATION STEPS

Step 1:
Identify the level of lux you need for the room. Refer to the table called “Residential Lux
Levels” for this information.

Step 2:
Work out the area of the room by multiplying both sides. For example, if the room measures
4m x 4m, the area will be 16 metres squared.

Step 3:
Work out the total amount of lumens you will need to achieve the required lux by multiplying
the room area (Step 2) by the lux (Step 1).

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Step 4:
We will need to adjust the total amount of lumens based on the ceiling height. If we have a
lower ceiling height, such as a 2400mm ceiling, the light does not have to travel as far and,
therefore, will make the room appear brighter than if the same amount of light was used in
a room with a tall 3400mm ceiling.

To make this adjustment, multiply the total lumens based on this guide

■ 2400mm ceiling - multiply by 0.7

■ 2700mm ceiling - multiply by 0.8

■ 3000m ceiling - multiply by 0.9

■ 3300mm ceiling - multiply by 1

Step 5:
Now that you have the total amount of lumens required for the entire room, you can calculate
the number of lights you will need to achieve the overall lux.

Here are some examples to demonstrate how the calculation is performed:

Example 1 - Dining Room

Room specifications:

■ Brightness level of 150 lux – refer to the “Residential Lux Levels” table

■ Room size – 3m x 4m

■ Ceiling Height – 2700mm

■ Fixture type – Downlights each with 600 lumen output

Calculation:

Step 1: 150 lux

Step 2: Area 3m x 4m = 12m²
Step 3: Lumen total 150 x 12= 1800 lumen
Step 4: Ceiling Height adjustment 1800 x 0.8 = 1440 lumen
Step 5: The downlights have an output of 600 lumens each, so we will need 2 to 3 of them
to achieve a brightness of 150 lux.

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Example 2 – Dining Room with a Combined Study

For this example, the client has decided to include a study area as part of the dining room,
changing the amount of light that is required for the room. They have asked for the lighting
to be brighter to suit the level of task for the study but to put the lights on a dimmer to be
able to adjust it when the space is used as a dining room.

Lux level requirement for a dining room is: 100-200 lux

Lux level requirement for a study (general area) is: 100-400 lux

You and the client have decided on a general brightness level of 300 lux for the room, and
later, a desk lamp will be incorporated into the design to increase the lighting falling directly
onto the task area.

Room specifications:

■ Brightness level of 300 lux

■ Room size – 3m x 4m

■ Ceiling Height – 2700mm

■ Fixture type – Downlights each with 600 lumen output

Calculation:

Step 1: 300 lux

Step 2: Area 3m x 4m = 12m²
Step 3: Lumen total 300 x 12= 3600 lumen
Step 4: Ceiling Height adjustment 3600 x 0.8 = 2800 lumen
Step 5: The downlights have an output of 600 lumens each, so we will need 4.8 (rounded
up to 5) of them to achieve a brightness of 300 lux.

In this example, you might want to select a different downlight with a higher lumen output
to reduce the number of fixtures in the room. For example, if you used a downlight with an
1100 lumen output instead of 600 lumens, you can use 2 or 3 fixtures instead of 6.

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DESIGNING
WITH LIGHT

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DESIGNING WITH LIGHT

TYPES OF ARTIFICIAL LIGHT

When developing a lighting plan, there are three types of lighting functions that need to be
considered:

■ General lighting

■ Task lighting

■ Accent or mood lighting

GENERAL LIGHTING

The primary function of general lighting is to provide an adequate amount of uniform light
to compensate for the lack of natural light and minimise shadows.

This type of lighting is uniform in nature and can lack interest unless it is combined with
feature lights, accent lights, wall sconces and floor or table lamps to produce contrasts of
light and shade, creating a more desirable atmosphere.

Types of luminaires used

■ Downlights

■ Pendants

■ Fluorescent

■ LED lights

TASK LIGHTING

Task lighting provides a concentrated beam of bright light onto a surface for specific tasks
such as food preparation, shaving, working, reading or playing an instrument.

Although a wide variety of lighting fixtures can be used for task lighting, the two basic
categories are installed and mobile fixtures.

Installed fixtures may include pendant lights or spotlights over desks or kitchen work areas.

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Mobile fixtures include desk lamps and floor lamps that plug into a socket and can be moved
easily by the homeowner or office occupant.

Types of luminaires used

■ Downlights

■ Spotlights

■ Wall lights

■ Lamps

■ Pendants

■ Under cabinet lights

■ LED strip lights

The position of task lights is critical because the source should be invisible to eliminate glare
and discomfort.

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KITCHEN TASK LIGHTING

In an ideal lighting design, the kitchen will have a combination of general and task lighting
falling onto the horizontal working surfaces.

The task lighting mounting position needs to be situated in front of or to the side of a person
to ensure that shadows do not fall over the work area.

■ Ceiling mounted lights are to be positioned over the centre of the bench.

■ Wall mounted lights on the wall directly behind the bench.

■ Wall cabinets create shadows onto the bench from ceiling lights and, to compensate
for this, installing under cabinet lighting is an ideal option.

These images are a good example of lighting for the kitchen:

General Lighting
Ceiling mounted recessed downlights
for general light

Task Lighting
Wall lights over the sink
Under cabinet lighting

Accent Lighting
Inside cabinet lighting

General Lighting
Ceiling mounted recessed downlights
for general light

Task Lighting
Pendant lighting over the island
bench
Under cabinet lighting

Accent Lighting
Inside cabinet lighting

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BATHROOM TASK LIGHTING

In the kitchen, the task area is the horizontal working plane, but in the bathroom, our face
is the main task area, and the lighting design will need to be adjusted for this.

When standing at the mirror, ideally you will have the light positioned in front of you with
the light falling onto your face to minimise shadows.

There are several ways to install task lighting around the bathroom vanity, and the option
you choose will depend on the architectural restrictions and the client’s preference.

The mounting positions are outlined on the following page in order of preference.

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 Option 1 - Wall Mounted

■ Lights are mounted on the wall to

eye level or just above.

■ Positioned either above or beside

the mirror.

■ Care needs to be taken to avoid

glare with fixtures mounted at
eye level.

Option 2 – Suspended Pendant

■ Pendant lights are suspended

over the vanity at eye level
or just above.

■ Ideally, a pendant will be installed

on either side of the mirror but a
single pendant will also work.

■ Pendant style should be indirect

and push light in all directions.

■ Care will need to taken to avoid

glare with any light suspended at
eye level.

Option 3 - Downlights

This option is less desirable because the

light is coming from above and will still
cause some shadowing around the eyes.

Lights are mounted in/on the ceiling

directly above the sink. It is important
that they are positioned close to the wall,
so the light itself falls onto the face, not
onto the top of your head.

For this installation, select fixtures with a

wider beam spread, so the light output is
broader and less like a spotlight.

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ACCENT LIGHTING

Accent lighting is used to target decorative features of the interior for visual effect. This type
of lighting is not the priority for most people because it is more decorative than functional
and often is left out of lighting design because it can be expensive to install.

It can be set into the floor, walls or ceiling and used to enhance artwork, decorative
accessories, shelves, collections of objects, stairs and architectural features.

Spotlights are commonly used as an accent light, but other forms of directional light such as
wall lights, downlights, LED strip lighting and lamps can have the same impact.

Accent lights can be used to highlight a beamed ceiling or create a soft glowing light around
the top of a column.

Dark wall colours will absorb any light that shines down on them from the ceiling, so it is
preferable to specify wall lights that shine up and reflect light off a white or light-coloured
ceiling.

Conversely, light wall colours reflect light, making it straightforward to light an entire room
or space. The use of dimmers with accent lights allows for a pleasing atmosphere to be
created in the room.

Accent lighting relies on contrast to make an impact, and therefore, when used in areas
with other lighting such as general lighting, the brightness of the accent lighting must be
3 times brighter than its surrounding light to maximise the contrast to create emphasis on
the object.

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LIGHTING DESIGN

Before we start any design, we need to determine what the objectives are. Is the current
lighting:

■ Adequate enough?

■ In the right location?

■ Achieving the desired effect?

■ Reflecting the style of the house?

■ Reflecting the style of the interior?

A successful lighting design will have multiple layers of lighting, utilising a number of
luminaires. It will address the room’s purpose and offer enough light to create a mood or
perform a task as required.

Lighting design combines the practical and aesthetic principles of design, and it is best to
approach them methodically.

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Step 1 – Feature Lights

Feature light(s), in the form of suspended pendants, should be selected prior to any other
light in the room. Because it is suspended at the viewer’s eye level, it will automatically be
the hero of the lighting design.

The amount of light provided by a feature light will vary greatly, and if it produces only a
low level of light, other lighting will need to be incorporated to increase the overall amount
of light to meet the minimum lux levels (i.e. downlights will need to be installed).

There are several factors to be considered for pendant selection:

■ Ceiling height - are they high or low?

■ Room shape - is it wide or narrow?

■ Architectural restrictions - are there any restrictions to the position that the light is
to be installed?

■ Room function - what is the purpose?

■ Furniture - what shapes are to be used underneath?

■ Traffic - is it a passageway?

■ Room - what is the design and style?

■ Room scale - large or small?

Once you have addressed these factors and decided on the type of pendant to be used, you
will need to choose the correct position to mount it, noting that this location will attract the
viewer’s attention and become a focal point.

Similar to how we use a floor rug to ground a space, a pendant also acts in the same way
and can be used to define a space in a room.

For example, if you have an open plan kitchen, dining and living room, the pendant can be
used to define the dining room by installing it directly above the table or the living room by
installing it over the coffee table.

If you find that you have an awkwardly shaped room, it is better to avoid installing a pendant
feature light and use general lighting instead.

The other question to ask yourself is - does the room actually need a feature light? Some
rooms already have decorative or architectural features and installing a pendant will either
get lost in these features or overwhelm the space.

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 Example of how a
feature light has been
used to create a focal
point, and the number
of lights have been
increased so the overall
scale is in proportion of
the room.

Excellent example
of how harmony has
been achieved through
colour, shape and
materials.

The room has a low

ceiling, and the pendant
suspension suits the
scale of the room.

Example of a pendant
that does not suit the
scale of the room and
is getting lost amongst
the feature wall and
ceiling.

Example of a poor
installation location,
creating a safety
hazard.

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Step 2 – Accent Lights

Accent lights are to be selected after the feature light(s). Factors to consider for selection:

■ It can be costly to install in already completed rooms because access to

wiring is limited.

■ Architectural restrictions will be difficult and expensive to install in building with

solid masonry, rendered or cement walls.

■ Can be used to create drama by playing with light and contrast.

■ Wall and ceiling washer effect of indirect lighting.

Determine the room feature to be highlighted:

■ Architectural features

■ Artwork or sculptures

■ Pattern, texture or 3D feature walls

This example shows several types of accent

lighting:

■ Inground uplighters have been

used to create contrast and drama
on this 3D feature wall.

■ Lights have been installed in the

wall niches to highlight the plants.

■ Strip lighting has been used at

the end of the hallway to highlight
the texture wall.

This example shows that accent lighting

has been installed in the curtain pelmet to
create an effect down the curtains, making
it the ideal setting to watch a movie.

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Step 3 - General Light

General lights are the functional types used to provide uniform lighting and to increase the
overall lighting in a room.

The room’s function and purpose will need to be identified to determine if it is required.
In some cases, the feature and/or accent lighting is enough to provide enough light and
general lights will not be needed.

Care needs to be taken for rooms that use general lighting only as the light it produces will
become too uniform. In these situations, try to include lamps into the design to create more
variation and interest.

Below is a good example of a layered lighting design.

General lighting have been used minimally

and only to increase the overall lighting
amount.

Pendants have been used as feature lights.

LED strips in the cove ceiling detail and

in the curtain pelmet have been used as
accent lights.

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ADDING FLEXIBILITY TO YOUR LIGHTING DESIGN WITH CONTROL
SYSTEMS

There are ways that we can add flexibility into our lighting design that is cost efficient and
can be used to enhance an existing lighting design or incorporated into a new one.

Dimming Control Systems

The most common control system used in residential lighting is a dimming switch. In its
simplest form, the dimmer switch reduces the power available to the light and therefore
reduces the intensity of light output. It is important to note that not all lamps and luminaires
can be dimmed. It is better not to assume that they can and always ask the supplier if the
information is not available on the product.

Dimming control systems also act as energy saving appliances because the amount of
power consumption of the luminaire or lamp is reduced by the dimming switch.

Sensor Activation

A motion sensor acts as an on/off switch for the light and is activated by movement in the
detection range.

The sensor can be either attached directly onto the luminaire or wired separately connecting
a number of fixtures to the one sensor, and when wired separately, greater flexibility is
achieved. For example, a single sensor can be installed at the bottom of a staircase and,
when activated, turn all of the wall lights on along the stairs.

Sensor activation is also handy for small utility spaces around the home like a pantry,
wardrobe and WC where convenience is the priority, and it is not used as a passageway.

Depending on the type and quality of the sensor, they can contain a daylight sensor to stop
activating during the day or an animal sensor to stop cats and dogs activating them.

Example of a
recessed sensor Examples of lights
that can be with a motion
used to activate sensor attached.
multiple lights.

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LIGHTING THE
HOME

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LIGHTING THE HOME

THE FRONT DOOR

The exterior front entrance to a home should be well-lit and feel welcoming, both inside and
out.

It creates the first impression, sets the scene and guides your visitors from the outside in.

A well-lit path will lead visitors from the street or driveway to the front door.

Design and appearance are key considerations when choosing exterior lighting.

Select light fittings that enhance the architectural style and are in character with the rest of
the home. Ensure that the light around the door is brighter than the surrounding landscape
lighting.

A completely bare front entrance is uninviting, so make it more welcoming by adding a

feature such as an attractive planter pot and plants.

Additional security lighting can be installed for safety and as a deterrent to intruders.

It is triggered by motion sensors and prevents the need to leave a light on during the hours
of darkness.

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ENTRANCE AND HALLWAY

The front entrance is an area where people come and go as they move to other parts of the
house.

It is usually a restricted floor area with little room for furniture, so lighting can be used to
create visual impact.

Use ceiling or wall lights as general or accent lighting.

Additional lights such as uplights can create a sense of drama, and spotlights can be used
to focus on artwork or architectural features.

A large pendant light or chandelier can make an impressive statement if there is a void,
stairwell or the size and height of the space is generous.

If the hallway is wide enough, a narrow table or console with a table lamp will provide soft,
warm light.

Position a light switch near the front door to prevent entering a dark house. For a long
hallway, consider installing a 2-way switch (3-way switch in the US/Canada) so the light can
be operated at either end of the hallway.

With a dimmer switch, the light level can be controlled, helping the eye adapt more easily
and transition from inside to out or vice versa.

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LIVING ROOMS

Many different activities take place in the living room, so lighting needs to be practical,
aesthetically pleasing and flexible.

Light should be planned to complement and enhance the room and the style of decoration.

Fixed, recessed downlights can restrict the lighting options, but when dimmed, can provide
a softer, more inviting atmosphere in the room.

Ambient lighting provides a background for relaxation, listening to music and watching
television.

In addition to dimmable downlights, general lighting can be achieved with floor lamps, table
lamps and freestanding uplights.

Task lighting is essential for reading, writing, hobbies and other concentrated activities.

Accent lights add background interest and drama and can be used to feature artwork or
architectural features.

A stylish living room will have a variety of different lights to create interest and prevent
monotony.

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KITCHEN

The kitchen is the main task area of the home and is often part of an open plan multifunctional
space, which may also include a living and/or dining area.

Functional task lighting over benches should be considered first, accent lights second and
lastly, general lighting needs to be addressed throughout the room.

Many range hoods or fan units have lights that can be activated when in use.

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DINING ROOM

Many homes do not have a separate dining room, but, regardless of where the dining table
is located, a good quality light is essential for the enjoyment of food.

A pendant light creates an interesting focal point and directs a broad spread of light over
the dining table.

Light can be dimmed to create a more intimate atmosphere for special occasions.

The shape and height of a pendant needs to be carefully considered to avoid glare and
restricting the view or conversation across the table.

It can be lowered to provide enough ambient light to see by and focus attention on the table.

In a room where recessed downlights provide the general light, dimmers will enable the
light level to be lowered.

Table and floor lamps can add soft, warm lighting to change the mood and atmosphere of
the space for dining in the evening.

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BEDROOMS

The principle function of a room is to provide a restful environment for sleep. The level of
lighting required is dictated by the level of task performed in the room. For example, if it
has a separate walk-in wardrobe and is used for sleeping only, the amount of light required
is minimal.

The occupant will also have an impact on the lighting design as children tend to use a
bedroom to sleep, study and play and will require a more flexible lighting design to suit.

Bedside lamps, wall lights or suspended pendants over the bedside table are popular
lighting choices but may need to be combined with general light to ensure adequate lighting.
Children’s rooms can include a small shaded lamp fitted with a low wattage bulb or plug-in
night light to provide a soft glow during the hours of darkness.

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BATHROOMS

Bathrooms are classified as ‘wet’ areas, so the safety of light fittings is of paramount
importance because electricity and water are in close proximity.

Light fixtures that are to be installed within the splash zone of a shower, bath or hand basin
must be sealed or ‘closed’ to prevent water and steam causing damage to the wiring in the
event of accidental splashing.

An Ingress Protection (IP) rating is used to categorise the suitability of lights for this purpose.

For example, a light fitting with the rating IP54 is interpreted as follows: the first numeral,
number 5 indicates that it is protected from the penetration of dust, and the second numeral,
number 4 indicates that it is protected against splashing.

Lighting levels can be controlled using a dimmer to change the mood of the room and
provide softer lighting for a relaxing bath. Good functional lighting is required for using the
mirror.

Extraction fans are essential in the wet areas of a home, such as kitchens, bathrooms and
laundry rooms. Fans or extractors need to be vented to the outside of the house through
the ceiling or outside wall to prevent damp air being recirculated inside the ceiling space
and causing mildew.

A wide range of fans and extractors are available, so always source the most efficient option
to suit the intended use and design style of the room.

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STAIRS

Stairs need to be well lit for safety and to minimise hazardous shadows.

Small lights can be recessed into the wall or LED strips installed under the handrail or along
the stair treads to define the pathway and create a feature of the stairwell.

Pendants suspended from the ceiling of the first floor and wall lights are also ideal.

EXTERIOR LIGHT FITTINGS

Exterior lighting is essential for safety and security but can also be used for dramatic effect
to add an extra dimension to both home and garden.

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Lights can accentuate architectural features, plants, sculptures, pathways, steps, driveways,
entrances and outdoor living areas.

Ingress Protection

Outdoor lights and any fixtures in contact with steam or water need to have an Ingress
Protection (IP) rating to show where they can be safely installed because they are constantly
exposed to weather and temperature fluctuations.

The degrees of protection are given a rating number denoted by 2 digits, i.e. IP44.

The first digit shows protection against penetration of solids.

The second digit shows protection against liquid.

When selecting lighting fixtures for residential areas, we refer to the protection against
liquids only.

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Marine and Coastal locations

Coastal areas within 5kms of the sea or fixtures close to saltwater pools pose an additional
problem in marine environments, salt in the air is an additional problem, which can cause
corrosion of the metal materials used to house the light fixtures.

Commonly, this presents as “pitting” or “rust” and to avoid this issue, the type of material
to be used should be limited to:

■ Copper

■ Marine-grade stainless steel - Type 316

■ Aluminium - Type LM6

■ Polycarbonate (Plastic)

Many different styles of light fittings can be used outside the home and around the garden,
including bollards, bulkhead lights, floodlights, pool lights, inground or recessed lights,
LEDs, spotlights, tree and wall lights.

They are most effective when diffused or concealed to prevent glare and can be automatically
controlled by timers.

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ELECTRICAL,
LIGHTING
AND HOME
TECHNOLOGY

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ELECTRICAL, LIGHTING AND HOME
TECHNOLOGY
Before building or renovating, you should consider and cater to your future needs by
installing structured or future proofed wiring to reduce energy costs and increase the value
of the home.

Planning needs to include:

■ Making energy efficient improvements to your home.

■ Providing extra wires and cables for data services throughout the home to service
the current needs and any future ones.

■ Flexible wiring and switching solutions for lighting circuits.

■ Leaving space for future wiring at the building stage to cater for changing
technology.

‘Future proofing’ allows electrical programming to be readjusted at any time and provides
flexibility for changing needs as situations change. We live in a new age of digital entertainment
where most households have multiple electronic items, such as computers, printers, game
consoles and entertainment centres.

The convenience of accessing these from any computer is now a major consideration when
planning a new build or renovation, so that cabling can be installed at the same time as
other services, such as electrical wiring and plumbing before the walls are lined and access
is restricted.

Home automation through Smart Technology refers to the use of a computerised system
to control some or all of a home’s products and appliances with touchscreens, remotes,
sensors or switches and provide an increased level of comfort and security. It is made
possible by smart wiring, which enables lighting, temperature (heating, ventilation and air
conditioning), security and multimedia systems to be programmed and controlled by the
occupants.

In addition, extra features can be added to the control system such as a central vacuum
system, gates, garage doors and automatic sprinklers. Although the cost of installing smart
wiring is high, it can be offset by programming to control lighting and room temperature at
the touch of a switch or remote.

Energy is saved by ensuring that there is no unnecessary usage. Another advantage of

smart wiring is remote access to ensure that a home continues to look ‘lived in’ when it is
unoccupied.

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THE SMART HOUSE

‘Smart houses’ usually feature a monitored security system and intelligent lighting control,
such as scene control, occupancy sensors for energy savings, and dimmer facilities, and
may include a structured wiring system for data, telephone and audiovisual distribution.

They may also be connected to the internet to enable control and monitoring including
access to the video camera output from a web browser anywhere in the world of the home’s
electrical and security systems.

Benefits of a fully integrated wiring system include enhanced security, automatic lighting
control, energy savings and automation of irrigation, curtains, heating and cooling.

Note that it is not cost-effective to install smart wiring in an existing building due to the
difficulties of gaining access behind the lined walls and ceiling space.

SECURITY SYSTEMS

Although alarm systems are not mandatory in a home, wiring can be put in place before the
interior walls are lined and connected at a later stage when the budget is available.

Basic alarm systems usually include two to four sensors, a touchpad or keypad, a control
unit (ideally with battery back-up in case of a power failure) and an internal and/or external
siren.

Additional features are available with more sophisticated alarm systems.

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SETTING UP A HOME THEATRE

A home theatre enables you to enjoy the movie theatre experience at home through the use
of state of the art audio and video equipment.

The major components of a movie theatre experience are a large screen television with a
clear picture and a surround sound system with at least four speakers.

The quality of the entertainment system will depend on the amount of money you are
prepared to spend and how important certain areas of performance are to you.

The sound system is what really makes a home theatre experience complete, so consider
the best quality products you can afford to suit your lifestyle and budget.

SMOKE ALARMS

It is required that all new houses and all existing houses undergoing a major renovation
have smoke alarms installed.

We recommend a smoke alarm to be installed in the hallway outside of the bedrooms, and
if the bedrooms are located on different floors or another location in the house, multiple
alarms will need to be installed.

A smoke detector should also be installed in the roof space, and heat detectors installed
above the internal distribution board and in the kitchen, bathroom and laundry areas. They
can be battery operated or wired to the main power supply.

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COMMUNICATING WITH YOUR BUILDER

The furniture layout and position of permanent fixtures, such as the kitchen benches and
bathroom vanity units, will determine the most efficient placement for light fittings, switches
and power outlets.

All wiring and cables for a new building or major renovation must be planned and
marked before the internal walls are lined.

Meet with your client, the licensed builder and a licensed electrician to walk through each
room and discuss the placement and type of light fittings prior to purchasing.

Confirm that they are suitable for installation in the home and will be appropriate for the
intended use.

Wiring must be designed to meet the current electrical load requirements but should allow
for future expansion.

As a designer, you need to have a working familiarity with sources and types of
light as well as the diverse array of light fittings available.

For your client projects, take advantage of the service offered by professional lighting
consultants in retail showrooms.

They can calculate the necessary lighting requirements for each room of the house and draw
up a lighting and electrical plan to ensure that all the specifications meet the requirements.

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LIGHTING AND
ELECTRICAL
PLANS

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LIGHTING AND ELECTRICAL PLANS
As different countries use different terminologies, you will see that the following chapters
have references used in the US and Canada and these are placed inside brackets in blue.

For lighting and electrical configurations, a plan with symbols is used to show the placement
and types of light fittings, dimmable switches, single or two-way switches, fans, TV, data,
phone jacks and power outlets in each room.

The plan shows built in and permanent fixtures, such as the kitchen benchtop and bathroom
vanity top, but no furniture. An electrical key or legend is always included with a plan to
show what each symbol represents.

Note that electrical plans must be approved by the electrician and builder, and it is best
to involve them with the initial consultation process. You will require the advice of your
electrician to decide where existing cables and wires are placed and where new ones may
be installed.

For lighting configurations, use a Reflected Ceiling Plan, also known as an RCP, as shown on
the following pages.

A Reflected Ceiling Plan is the same as the floor plan but flipped over to show the ceiling.

Imagine that you have placed a mirror on the floor and drawn the plan of this view to
indicate the position of the lights and all hardwired electrical items installed on the ceiling
and walls.

Furniture is not required on the lighting plan. Often, it will make the plan confusing. If you
do want to show furniture, always ensure that your plan remains clear and easy to read.
A way to do this would be to use a red pen for the lighting and electrical plan so that it is
clearly visible.

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LIGHTING CIRCUITS

To operate a light, a switch is required. This switch is used to connect a single light or a
number of lights together with wire, and this connection is called a lighting circuit.

There is no limit to the design of the lighting circuit, and the only restriction you will face is
the physical ability to be able to connect the switch to the lights with wire.

For example, if you have a concrete ceiling or walls, new wiring will not be able to be
installed inside the cavity of the wall or ceiling; instead, it will need to be surface mounted
and enclosed in a protective thick plastic barrier called a conduit.

On a lighting plan, we need to indicate the position of the switch and a line to connect this
switch to the fixture(s). The line itself is drawn loosely on the plan, as it is our role to explain
the lighting design and the electrician’s role to decide how to install the wiring around the
building structure.

As a priority, always try to simplify the lighting design and keep the number of switches to
a minimal amount. For example, if you have a dining room with 4 recessed downlights and
a pendant, better to have a switch for all of the downlights and a separate switch for the
pendant and avoid the temptation to break up the downlights into smaller groups.

The lighting circuit can combine multiple types of lights and electrical fixtures. For example,
on the same lighting circuit, you can include any combination of these fixtures:

■ Light fixtures (all types)

■ Sensor

■ Extraction fan

There are certain fixtures than cannot be combined and will need to remain on a single
lighting circuit:

■ Ceiling Fan – this requires an independent circuit.

■ Smoke Detector – these are designed to remain turned on and active at all times.

■ Security systems – these are designed to remain turned on and active at all times.

■ Any other ceiling mounted item that needs to remain turned on and active at all
times.

■ Light fixtures that have an integrated sensor.

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Dimming

Dimming is controlled by a separate mechanism that is installed with the switch and
therefore, when used, will apply to all the lights that are on the same circuit.

Sensor Activation

If a separate sensor is incorporated in the lighting design, the lighting circuit configuration
would be the switch, connected to the sensor, connected to the lighting fixture(s).

The only limit to the type of configuration is the limitation of the wires to be connected, but
if this can be achieved, it is a very flexible system.

Switching Locations

The location of the light points should be practical, and the main objective is to minimise the
amount of distance the occupants need to travel to operate the switch.

Picture this... You are coming home from work, and your arms are full of groceries. Upon
entering the house, what is the most convenient location to switch the light on as you are
trying to juggle the groceries? By doing this, you will find the ideal location for the switch.

Be mindful of the switching location for lighting fixtures in a large open plan room; try to
position the switch by the entrance to the room.

For long open plan rooms, better to break up the switches into 2 groups. Install a set of
switches by the entrance to the room and the other in a more central position along the
main passageway that connects the rooms.

Convenient Switching Options

When producing a lighting design, try to think of a way to make it convenient or efficient for
the occupant, and the easiest way to do this is by incorporating a 2-way or 3-way switching
circuit into the parts of the home that have the longest distance to travel or to create safe
passage.

It works by connecting lighting fixture(s) to separate switches to be operated separately.

For example, a home with a long hallway can benefit from a 2-way switching circuit, one
switch to be installed by the front door and another switch at the end of the hallway.

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There are several switching circuits to choose from, such as a Single Pole switch, a 2-way
switch, 3-way switch, 4-way switch, etc.

Since the circuits can vary from country to country, we recommend you do some research.
If you are living in the US or Canada, this link includes a video that explains them in more
detail.

LIGHT SWITCHING CONSIDERATIONS BY ROOM

Hallway

■ Consider a 2-way switch for long hallways. (In the US/Canada, please consider a
3-way switch)

Stairs

■ Consider a 2-way switch to operate the light on either floor. (In the US/Canada,
please consider a 3-way switch)

■ Try to incorporate stair lighting in the form of wall lights or LED strips along with
either a feature or general lighting, both to be switched separately.

■ Consider including a sensor to operate the stair lights.

Bedroom

■ Will you have a central light(s) or include a ceiling fan into the lighting design?

■ Consider the lighting for the bedside tables. Will it be a table lamp, suspended
pendant or wall light? If the fixture is hardwired, do you intend to switch them
separately on each side of the bed? Do you need to make it a 2-way switch (3-way
for US/Canada) with the 2nd switch at the entrance to the room?

■ If the room has a separate walk in wardrobe, would sensor activation make it more
convenient?

Bathroom / Ensuite

■ Incorporate task lighting around the vanity area, and decide if you want it to be
switched separately on the wall behind the vanity or with the central light.

■ If the bathroom includes a bath, consider installing a dimmer.

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WC

■ Consider installing sensor activation for convenience.

■ If it is used by guests, consider installing task lighting around the vanity.

Laundry

■ In most cases, general lighting is adequate for the space, but, if the owner uses it
as a task area, consider installing task lights over the bench.

Kitchen

■ Try to simplify the switches and have one switch for the general lighting, another
for the task lighting and another for the feature or accent lighting.

■ Add a dimmer to the general and feature lighting to add flexibility.

■ Consider the task lighting switch location. Would you prefer it to be with the other
switches or a separate switch on the backsplash?

Dining

■ Separate the feature light on a separate switch and consider installing a dimmer.

■ If a feature light is not used, consider installing a ceiling fan. Avoid this if a feature
light is present because the fan will compete for attention.

Living Room

■ Consider adding lighting in layers by including accent and general lighting.

■ Consider installing dimmers on the lighting circuit for flexibility.

■ If a feature light is not used, consider installing a ceiling fan.

Note for open plan rooms:

■ When using multiple fixtures like downlights, be mindful that the entire ceiling will
be viewed at once, and it is better to arrange the lights in neat rows that are
aligned for each zone.

■ Try to create lighting designs in layers to create interest and depth, and use feature
lights to define each of the areas.

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POWER OUTLETS

Access to plug outlets in the home are called General Power Outlets and are commonly
referred to as “GPO’s”. They are available in single, double, triple or quadruple configurations,
and, if more outlets are required, consider installing several of them in a row.

The location of the GPO is dictated by the furniture placement and the rooms intended
usage. Try to make the location practical, as it is safer to overestimate the amount to be
included rather than underestimate because it would be costly to install later.

Consider including them in the hallway for vacuuming or if you intend to have a hall table
with a lamp or phone charger.

In the kitchen, you will need to allow for all electrical appliances like a stove, rangehood,
dishwasher, refrigerator and around the backsplash and sides of the island bench for small
appliances.

EXHAUST FANS

■ Exhaust fans, also referred to as extraction fans, are required for all bathrooms with
a shower or bath.

■ If you intend to use a dryer in the laundry room, it is also a good idea to install an
exhaust fan in this room.

■ Bathrooms and WC’s do not require a window that opens, and, if the building has an
extraction fan, that will need to be incorporated into your lighting design.

■ For WC’s that have a window that opens, it is the owner’s preference if they want to
include an exhaust fan into the design.

■ “3 in 1” units are very popular and are called this because they combine light, heat
and an exhaust in the same unit.

DATA AND COMMUNICATION

Consider the current needs of the modern home and consider including data, TV and
telephone points into the design.

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SYMBOLS USED
TO CREATE A
REFLECTED
CEILING PLAN

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SYMBOLS USED TO CREATE A REFLECTED
CEILING PLAN
The symbols on the following pages are some of the standard ones used in the industry.
However, there are a variety of symbols that are used in different countries, so always be
sure to have a legend/key to the side of your plan explaining your choices.

When drawing the reflected ceiling plan (RCP), it is our role to describe the type of light we
are to use and later explain the fixture selection in the document supplied separately to the
plan.

For example, you intend to use 5 different pendants in the design. On the plan, you will use
the same pendant symbol for the pendants to indicate the type of light to be installed.

Reflected Ceiling Plan Example With Legend/Key

REFLECTED CEILING PLAN

SCALE - 1:50

2 way

2 way

2 way
S d

F P
d

d
d

d
d
d
d
S

2 way

RCP LIGHTING SYMBOLS SCHEDULE

RECESSED DOWNLIGHTS SINGLE SPOT OR FLOOD TRACK LIGHTING WIRING (TO SWITCH)

SUSPENDED PENDANT DOUBLE SPOT OR FLOOD BAR SPOT LIGHT (3 LIGHTS) 2 way
2 WAY SWITCH

CEILING MOUNTED FIXTURE CEILING FAN FLUORESCENT OR LED PANEL d

DIMMING

WALL MOUNTED FIXTURE LED STRIP LIGHTING STEP LIGHTS S SENSOR

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LIGHTING SYMBOLS

Recessed Downlights
Symbol is used to indicate a recessed downlight and is to be drawn as a
small circle. Same symbol for fixed and adjustable types. Symbol size is
small.
Surface Mounted Downlights
Symbol is used to indicate a surface mounted downlight and is to be drawn
as a small circle. Same symbol for fixed and adjustable types. Symbol size
is small.
Ceiling Mounted Fixture
(Surface Mount, CTC, Flush Mount, Oyster Light)
Symbol is used for any ceiling mounted fixture and is to be drawn bigger
than the downlight symbol to the same size as a pendant.
Suspended Pendant (Includes Chandelier)
Symbol is used to indicate any suspended pendant or chandelier. If a group
of pendants are to be clustered, a symbol is to be used for each of the
pendants. The symbol is drawn larger than a downlight symbol and the
same size as ceiling mounted fixture.
Wall Mounted Fixture (Eye Level)
Symbol is used to indicate any fixture that is attached to the wall around eye
level. Symbol size is the same as a downlight.

Wall Mounted Stair Lights (Knee Height)

Symbol is used to indicate any fixture that is attached to the wall along
a staircase, hallway or passageway and is installed around knee height.
Symbol size is smaller than wall mount fixture.
Track Lighting
The track is drawn as a line and is to the intended length of the track to be
installed. Track heads position and quantity are indicated by using a single
flood symbol.
Bar Spot (2)
The length of a bar spot is fixed and the symbol shows a short line with
circles. The number of circles (2) indicate the quantity of the spotlights.

Bar Spot (3)

The length of a bar spot is fixed and the symbol shows a short line with
circles. The number of circles (3) indicate the quantity of the spotlights.

Bar Spot (4)

The length of a bar spot is fixed and the symbol shows a short line with
circles. The number of circles (4) indicate the quantity of the spotlights.

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Single Spotlight (Indoors) also used for a Floodlight (Outdoors)
Symbol is used to indicate a ceiling or wall mounted spotlight and the
direction of the triangle indicates the lighting position.

Double Spotlight also used for a Twin Floodlight (Outdoors)

Symbol is used to indicate a ceiling or wall mounted spotlight and the
direction of the triangle indicates the lighting position. If there is a sensor
integrated with the light, add a letter “S” to the fixture.
LED Strip Lighting
LED strip lighting is drawn as a thick dashed line and the length of the line
indicates the length of the LED strip.

Panel Light (Fluorescent or LED)

Panel lights are a popular choice for the garage or workshop and available
in surface mount or recess varieties. If the panel is to be recessed, add the
word “Recessed” to the symbol.
Ceiling Fan and Light
Ceiling fans are larger than other lights and the symbol will need to be
drawn larger to reflect this. Ceiling fan and light to have a white centre to
indicate the light.
Ceiling Fan (No Light)
Ceiling fans are larger than other lights and the symbol will need to be
drawn larger to reflect this. Ceiling fan and light to have a solid centre to
indicate fan only.

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ELECTRICAL SYMBOLS

Single GPO
GPO symbol is a semi-circle drawn against the wall, with a line coming out
from it. The number of semi-circles indicate the electrical connectors to be
shown on the same plate.
Double GPO
Double GPO to have two semi-circle shapes, with a line coming out of each
shape.

Triple GPO
Triple GPO to have three semi-circle shapes, with a line coming out of each
shape.

Quadruple GPO
Quadruple GPO to have four semi-circle shapes, with a line coming out of
each shape.
Data
Mark the position of the data point on to the wall that you intend to install
it on.

Television Outlet
Mark the position of the television outlet on to the wall that you intend to
install it on.

Telephone
Mark the position of the telephone on to the wall that you intend to install
it on.

Smoke Detector
Mark the position of the smoke detector on to the ceiling that you intend to
install it on. These items are permanently switched on and do not require a
wiring circuit to be shown on the plan.
Exhaust Fan
Mark the position of a single exhaust fan onto the ceiling that you intend to
install it on.

Exhaust Fan, Heat and Light (Combination Unit)

If you intend to use an exhaust fan and light or exhaust, heat and light unit,
indicate this by adding a square around the symbol.

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WIRING SYMBOLS

Wiring (Lighting Circuit)

A loose line is drawn in red pen that is used to indicate how the fixtures
connect to each other and to the switching point on the wall.

LIGHT SWITCH SYMBOLS

Single Switch
Each lighting circuit will need to have a switch point on the wall to operate
it. We indicate the number of switches on the same plate by using a symbol.

This symbol shows that a single lighting circuit will have 1x switch point and
the switching plate attached to the wall will have 1x switch only.

Notes:
A ceiling fan requires a separate circuit to the other lights and therefore will
need to have a separate switch to operate it. In this instance, this symbol
is to be used for the ceiling fan switch. If a light circuit is to be dimmed, a
separate switch plate is required, and a different symbol is to be used (see
below).

Double Switch
Two separate lighting circuits will need two separate switches to operate
them. This symbol indicates that there are two switches on the same lighting
plate attached to the wall.

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ASSIGNMENT FIVE
ELECTRICAL PLAN

STEP 1 STEP 2 STEP 3 STEP 4

USE PLAN FROM DETERMINE LIGHTING CREATE THE REFLECTED INCLUDE SYMBOLS USED
ASSIGNMENT 4 LOCATIONS CEILING PLAN IN A LEGEND/KEY

You are to produce a full internal lighting and electrical design to suit the floor plan you
created in Assignment 4.

The lighting and electrical design is to be drawn onto an electrical plan aka a reflected ceiling
plan, and on the plan, you will need to show all light fixtures, power outlets, switches,
dimmers, wiring, smoke detectors, exhaust fans and any other electrical equipment that is
hardwired that will need to be communicated to your electrician.

The existing house was built in the 1950s and features 2700mm high ceilings. A site analysis
has been performed and found that the house will need to be completely rewired and
updated to meet the demands of a modern family.

N
Ali Olech
Interiors
p 07496 286839
a Old Liverpool Road
Warrington Wa5 1AS
e [email protected]

KEY:
Lighting Symbols
W S S W Recessed Ceiling Mounted Suspended
Downlights Fixture Pendant
Wall Mounted Double Spotlight Ceiling Fan
Fixture S With Sensor and Light
WC/LAUNDRY x
LED Strip
SD
Lighting
2 wa

Electrical Symbols
S
y

MUD Single GPO Double GPO Triple GPO

ROOM SD
External GPO Television
w
ay
W
Waterproof D Data TV Outlet
GUEST 3
KITCHEN
BEDROOM PH Telephone SD Smoke Detector
DIM
STORAGE
W

SD Wiring Symbols
ay
S Wiring 2w
ay
2 Way Switch 3w
3 Way Switch

S
DIM
Dimming Sensor
D TV
W

2w

Project Name:
ay

S SD
BATHROOM DIM
2w
ay IDI Module 5 - RCP

SD Client Name:
3 way

The Interior Design Institute

SD

x Client Address:
HALL
TBC
2w

STUDY
Date:
ay

DIM 07/04/2021
SD
2w
ay
ENTRY Notes:
The marking from the tutor on assignment 4 suggested
LIVING to keep the bathroom more accessible. Therefore,
ROOM change in the floor plan was made: the laundry area
D PH D TV had enough space so a new WC could be added.

W S S W
DRAWING:
Reflected Ceiling Plan (RCP)

SCALE 1:50
DRAWING
NUMBER 1/1

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The reflected ceiling plan (RCP) can be hand drawn or produced using a computer software
and is used to indicate all hardwired fixtures only, not plug in lamps and electrical items, but
be sure to include an outlet for these items.

It is preferred that you remove the furniture from your floor plan to make the lighting and
electrical design clearly visible for your tutor. The standard convention is to use a black pen
when drawing a reflected ceiling plan, but you can choose to use a different colour pen for
the assignment submission if you feel that it will make it easier to read.

It is also essential to include a lighting legend/key to show the items you have used in the
design. The legend/key can be in portrait or landscape orientation.

NOTES

■ The reflected ceiling plan can be hand drawn, then scanned and uploaded as an
image file in JPEG or PDF format. You can also use one of the programs listed on the
‘Resources’ tab within the student site. Simply scroll down to the ‘Software’ section.
If you are competent in using a computer-aided design program, then please go
ahead.

■ Format must be A3 or A4.

■ The plan can be ‘Not to Scale’. It is advised to maximise the size of the floor plan to
aid drawing symbols and lighting circuits.

■ Please include a title block and a key with the lighting and electrical symbols.

SUBMISSION REQUIREMENTS

This assignment requires you to upload:

A total of 1 reflected ceiling plan.

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USEFUL LINKS

INFORMATION RESOURCES

Glossary

REFLECTED CEILING PLAN RESOURCES

RCP Symbol Key - Landscape (PDF)

RCP Symbol Key - Portrait (PDF)
RCP Symbol Key - Landscape (JPEG)
RCP Symbol Key - Portrait (JPEG)

LIGHTING RESOURCES

Lighting and Electrical Symbols

Lighting and Electrical Symbols (US + Canada)
Lighting and Electrical Symbols (UK)

SKETCHUP RESOURCES

Using Lighting Symbols in LayOut

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#IDISTUDENT ASSIGNMENT EXAMPLES

We have included two assignment submissions by fellow students to give you an idea on
ways to set your assignment out. Use them as inspiration only and do not copy word for
word.

N O T E S:

STUDY

N
•General Room lighting is provided through Recessed LED Juliette
downlights.
•Task lighting is provided as recessed LED strip lighting in the shelf Elith
above the desk area. This lighting is a 2 way switch so it can be turned
on as walking into the room or from the centre of the desk. INTERIORS
W W •Central Data and Phone points are provided, as well as 2 banks of
Quadruple GPOs for each side of the desk to service 2 comput-
er/print/fax setups to create a functioning home office
•A Smart technology hub is located in the study for future options of p 0433 065 085
automating the home and for running the music for the ceiling a 17 Watergum Drive
mounted speaker system. Wiring to be run with consultation from an Warriewood NSW 2012
Under SPK SPK e [email protected]
expert in this field.
Bench
WC KEY:
•A central Exhaust Fan, Heat and light is provided. Soft, task lighting is
Recessed Ceiling Fan
provided in the form of 2 sconce lights flanking the mirror. Downlight (no light)
•A double GPO is provided for use of plug in bathroom appliances as Surface Mounted Exhaust Fan,
needed. Downlight Heat and Light

Suspended Smoke
SD
Pendant Detector
FOYER/ENTRY
Under •Sensor sconce lights flank the front door entry to provide light upon Ceiling Mounted
Fixture
TV
Television
Outlet
Bench approach to the front door. Suspended Ceiling Mounted
•A ceiling mounted pendant feature light provides a well lit welcome Linear Light
SPK
Speaker
D entry. Wall Mounted
PH Telephone
Fixture
•A double GPO allows for use of a lamp on the consul table near the
LED Strip
front door. Lighting
D Data

Single GPO DIM

Diming
STAIRS
•General Area lighting is provided through Recessed LED downlights. Double GPO 2 WAY
2 Way Switch
This is a 2 way switch to the upstairs area.
PH
S •Softer lighting is provided in the form of LED strip lighting mounted Quadruple GPO
S
Sensor
under the stair banister. This is a 2 way switch to the upstairs area. W Double GPO
Waterproof
LIVING
SD
•General Room lighting is provided through Recessed LED
D downlights. These are a on a sensor to adjust light level as needed.
•A central Fan is provided for climate control.
•Data, TV points and a Quadruple GPO are provided for media and
mounted inside custom cabinetry.
•A double GPO has been provided on the east wall of the Living area
for a floor or table lamp and also as a point for plugging in a vacuum PROJECT:
cleaner. Module 5
DINING Reflected Ceiling Plan
Under
•General Room lighting is provided through Recessed LED
Bench
downlights. These are a on a sensor to adjust light level as needed.
•A feature pendant light is mounted central to the dining table to
CLIENT NAME:
2 WAY

offer more intimate lighting for meals and is also on a sensor. The Interior Design
D •Sconce lights are mounted either side of a mirror above the buffet as
another soft lighting option.
Institute
2 WAY

•The Smoke detector is located in this area in relation to the kitchen

zone. CLIENT ADDRESS:
•A phone point is also located behind the buffet for a land line based
telephone as needed. TBC
LAUNDRY
•General Room lighting is provided through Recessed LED DATE:
downlights. 19/2/2020
•Task lighting is provided as recessed LED strip lighting in the shelf
SPK above the bench area. NOTE:
•A Double GPO has been provided under bench for dryer and washer THIS DRAWING IS PROVIDED FOR INFORMATIONAL
PURPOSES ONLY. IF USED FOR CONSTRUCTION. THE
appliances. CONTRACTOR ASSUMES ALL RESPONSIBILITY FOR LOCAL
•A double GPO has been provided at bench level for other laundry CODE COMPLIANCE. ALL DRAWINGS, PLANS, SKETCHES
appliances e.g. iron. ETC. ARE PROVIDED TO OUR CLIENTS BASED UPON
INFORMATION GIVEN AND DRAWN IN ACCORDANCE WITH
COMMON BUILDING PRACTICES AND LOCAL CODES.
KITCHEN NONE OF THE EMPLOYEES OF JULIETTE ELITH INTERIORS
ARE REGISTERED ARCHITECTS, ENGINEERS OR LAND
D •General Room lighting is provided through Recessed LED SURVEYORS. ALL DIMENSIONS AND SPECIFICATIONS
downlights.
Smart Tech

SHOULD BE VERIFIED BY CLIENT AND/OR CONTRACTOR

PH •Task lighting is provided on the west wall in the form of recessed LED BEFORE ACTUAL CONSTRUCTION BEGINS. IF DIMENSIONS
AND SPECIFICATIONS ARE NOT VERIFIED BY CLIENT
strip lighting in the cabinetry above the bench area. AND/OR CONTRACTOR BEFORE ACTUAL CONSTRUCTION
•Task lighting is provided on the northern wall in the form of 2 x linear
Hub

BEGINS JULIETTE ELITH INTERIORS ASSUMES NO

pendant feature lights. LIABILITY AND CANNOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR CHANGES
AND/OR REVISIONS MADE TO PLANS BY CLIENT AND/OR
•Under bench GPOs are provided for dishwasher, oven, stove top and CONTRACTOR. CONSULTATION WITH A STRUCTURAL
2 WAY to the rear of the refrigerator cavity. ENGINEER WILL NEED TO BE UNDERTAKEN PRIOR TO
•3 sets of double GPOs are provided at bench height for other kitchen COMMENCEMENT OF WORKS.

Under appliances e.g. kettle/toaster/coffee machine.

SPK Bench
D TV SPK
•The Pantry has a Recessed LED downlight and recessed LED strip DRAWING:
lighting in the cabinetry above the bench area on sensor, to activate
when entering this area.
Ground Floor - RCP

EXTERIOR REAR YARD

•The Exterior Northern wall has 4 wall sconces provided for light to
SCALE not to scale
the alfresco entertaining area.
•2 x waterproof double GPOs are also provided to this area.
S
•Spotlights to the paths down the sides of the residence to be mount-
ed on the 2 level of the home, therefore not depicted in this drawing.
DRAWING
NUMBER 2/2

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ONLINE WORKSHOP ALERT

Did you know we have an online workshops called ‘Creative Lighting Design’, which is
completely optional and have been designed to accompany this module as an additional
resource?

In the ‘Creative Lighting Design’ workshop, hosted by IDI tutor Vicki Mullins, you will be
guided through the art of crafting captivating lighting designs. From assessing a space’s
unique needs to selecting fixtures and choosing the right colour temperature, you’ll gain the
skills to transform any room into a visually stunning masterpiece.

Each workshop costs $29 USD and includes a downloadable booklet. Head to the “Workshops”
tab within the Student Site for more info.

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VERSION 1:6 - NOV 2023 – COPYRIGHT © ONLINE EDUCATION ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
IMAGE SOURCES

COVER IMAGES

Module Cover Image by Dylan James

Lighting Cover Image by iStock

Light and How We See Cover Image by 123rf

Colour Properties of Light Cover Image by iStock

Natural Light Cover Image by 123rf

Artificial Light Cover Image by fromwherever.co

Site Analysis Cover Image by Dylan James

Light Levels Cover Image by 123rf

Designing With Light Cover Image by Shutter Stock

Lighting the Home Cover Image by 123rf

Electrical, Lighting and Home Technology Cover Image by Behance

Lighting and Electrical Plans Cover Image by 123rf

Symbols Used to Create a Reflected Ceiling Plan Cover Image by iStock

OTHER IMAGES SOURCED FROM

Darren Palmer Emily Henderson Google Images

Dylan James Three Birds Renovations Shutter Stock
Nikki Astwood fromwherever.co Adobe Stock
Kelly Donougher Behance 123rf
Nardia Nelson Pinterest
Lindye Galloway Instagram

LIGHTING
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VERSION 1:6 - NOV 2023 – COPYRIGHT © ONLINE EDUCATION ALL RIGHTS RESERVED