It is estimated that 50 per cent

of the world’s fish that is caught is wasted.

Of the 50 per cent that we do work with, 50 per cent of this is overlooked by
the Western world, which overwhelmingly prefers to consume only the fillet.

The responsibility for this issue lies first with the industry.

This book intends to disrupt, inspire, challenge

and hopefully encourage the next generation.

Thinking of this as a problem for individuals to solve

is hopelessly out of date.

This book is as much about intentionality as it is sustainability.

 CONTENTS

Introduction (or the Market for Lemons) 9

What is a Fish Butchery? 11
The Story So Far 13
How to Use this Book 17

CATCH 19

Monger vs Butcher 21
The Problem with Wet Fish 28
What is Rigor Mortis? 31
Dry-aged Fish 31
A Fish’s Journey from Sea to Store 35

CUT 43

Tools of the Trade 44

Scaling, Knife-scaling and Gutting 49
Offal Utilisation 57
The Cuts 79

CRAFT 151

Charcuterie 153
Pastries, Patties and Crumbed Goods 197
Snacks and Sundries 225
Artisanal Goods 257

Acknowledgements 269
 INTRODUCTION

(O R T H E M A R K E T FOR LEMONS)

hen buying a used car, we have all become handled and dry-aged. But how is the average punter
W accustomed to thinking that it may be a lemon. to know that?
(We had this experience when we bought our first And so, in fish we have another market for lemons –
refrigerated van for Fish Butchery, but that’s a story and a race to the bottom. Consumers know little of the
for another day.) If you assume you might be buying subject and fall back on price as the easiest variable to
a lemon – and have no knowledge of how cars work – compare.
then this places a cap on how much you are willing to However, there is a bright side. The cost of fish is
spend. This phenomenon discourages owners of well- considerably less than that of a car. I know that once
maintained quality used cars to sell them as they won’t you commit to a well-handled fish that has been
receive a fair price. In turn, the market fills with more expertly butchered or transformed into an exceptional
and more lemons. product then you will taste the difference and return
And so it is with fish. for more.
In every fish shop I have ever seen, fish is washed and Never before has there been such attention on
stored in direct contact with ice. As a result, it has a very sustainability. Through challenging the status quo and
short shelf life, smells ‘fishy’ and sticks to the pan. communicating transparently with the industry and
So why should you assume that the fish at our Fish its consumers – and, of course, delivering a delicious
Butchery are any different? Why would you pay double product – I believe we can drive out the bad, replace
the price for our fish? it with the good and overcome the market for lemons
The difference is that our fish have been meticulously in the fish industry.
sourced from excellent local fishers, brain spiked, dry-

9
 W H AT IS A FISH BUTCHERY?

efore we get started, I need to talk a little about to fish depending on its size and species. In the creation
B what a fish butchery is, why it’s needed and how of our fish butchery, my team and I have developed and
ours came to be. refined a number of both basic and complex techniques
The history of meat butchery and meat-based to encourage desirability and value from the entire fish.
preparations has long been a catalyst for my creativity These techniques range from butchery cuts to dry-
when trying to reimagine missed opportunities with ageing, charcuterie and a list of value-added products
a fish, and this history also underlines my thinking that can be made from the whole fish.
around the creation of our first Fish Butchery in It’s important to note that we have not created this
Paddington. as a niche concept for a privileged 1 per cent seeking
The meat industry is not without its own flaws, but out the extremes of modern gastronomy. This is about
there would be no butcher in the world who would only creating a workable system for the industry that
strip the loins off a pig and then throw the rest away as allows families and individuals to conveniently access
waste. And yet this is essentially what we do every day approachable fish dishes that extend the use of one fish
all around the world with fish. Fillets are taken, the further, whether that be in the form of fish sausages,
rest is discarded and more fish are caught to sustain burger patties, fish fingers, fishcakes, pâté, mortadella,
the demand. bacon and more.
Instead, I believe that when a fish arrives to market, By recontextualising fish in this way, we can bring
like an animal to a butcher, there are disciplined practices desirability to otherwise overlooked species and parts
that we need to follow. These practices will vary from fish of a fish.
 THE STORY SO FAR

irst things first: how did we get to the point of are freshly washed every 10 minutes. That frequency of
F creating Fish Butchery? washing and the inconsistencies of temperature that fish
Within 18 months of opening my fish restaurant are subject to on an open ice display also contribute to
Saint Peter, my team and I had developed a vast array of the offensive aromas that you smell even before walking
techniques, dishes and relationships with fishers all over into a market or fish store. By critically thinking about
Australia. Given the footprint of the restaurant hadn’t the storage, display and our methods of cutting, we
expanded and more guests were wanting to experience developed a fish shop that found a solution for all three
the work we were doing, my wife, Julie, and I felt it was of these issues.
necessary to open another business. Fish Butchery Paddington was hatched in a former
Not just another restaurant, but a space that hair salon just a few doors up from Saint Peter on
allowed for greater infrastructure, a larger team and Sydney’s Oxford Street. This was by no means the
a connection to our Paddington community that perfect location for a fish shop (albeit a fish butchery),
extended beyond a restaurant experience in pursuit however it was just doors away from the restaurant and
of greater standards. had been a cafe many decades ago. We were fortunate,
What also played into the decision was our need as we were at Saint Peter, to already have a grease trap,
to diversify where our fish were going. If a single fish exhaust and pre-existing approvals, which meant the
arrives on day one, what were the steps we would take wheels could turn quickly and we could get started.
to achieve the maximum return? It may be that we Aesthetically, Julie and I had always been blown away
would need to produce a terrine, a ham, pâté from its by the orientation of the space at Lune Croissanterie
liver, centre-cut fillets, bone-in chops, consommé from in Melbourne. Unfortunately, the space that we had
the bones, salted and smoked hearts and spleens. But found in Paddington wasn’t as generous, however it
not all these products could be bottlenecked onto one still allowed us to be inspired by Lune’s ability to bring
single Saint Peter menu. visibility and transparency to its craft and ingredients.
If we were going to continue to be a restaurant that When we opened Fish Butchery Paddington, the first
only served fish then we would need to create our own objective was to display the fish we were going to sell as
fish shop. a single slice or whole fish. These were presented in a
A fish shop to me – when I was a kid, at least – was static refrigerated glass box at the end of our processing
always cold, smelly and wet. So that’s where we first put table that would keep the fish chilled from –1 to 0°C
our attention, and we set about changing these three (30°F). By doing this, our customers would be able
areas to create a more comfortable setting that brought to see a desirable portion of each fish and then select
more desirability to fish. which species and exactly how many portions or grams
Temperature is critical when handling fish, and of each they’d like.
we needed to ensure that the space would be kept The theory was that we would hold the whole fish
well cooled while we processed it. However, for the on the bone in our coolroom up until the point of
customer, we didn’t want water on cold concrete floors, being purchased and take it off the bone as it was sold.
or the traditional ice display covered in fillets of fish that This would ensure a longer shelf life and a far superior
product, as the flesh of the fish wouldn’t be exposed to The service of creating meal kits for our customers
oxygen or light. Furthermore, each customer could ask was obviously a very challenging time, however it was
for exactly what they wanted: a butterflied fish ready for also extremely satisfying. We noticed an increase in
the grill, a crumbed fish ready for pan-frying, or even demand for both retail and takeaway at Fish Butchery
a boned-out fish, trussed and ready to roast. during the 18 months that Covid controlled our lives.
However, the failure of this static glass box was The team at Fish Butchery was doing a brilliant job
that people would come for a look and think that and we felt it had the capacity to take on another
the scarcity of the fish display suggested this was all business to maximise the efficiency of our labour, so, in
we had left. As it went so against the conventions 2021, Julie and I made the decision to open Charcoal
of a traditional fish shop’s ice trough full of fillets, Fish in Rose Bay. The mission of Charcoal Fish was
customers were also confused by what exactly it was to provide a selection of accessible fish options that
that we sold. Beyond attracting guests who merely allowed guests young and old to choose from excellent
wanted to grab a photo for their Instagram or come grilled or rotisserie-cooked fish paired with beautiful
for a giggle at the fish shop with only a dozen portions salads and vegetables that were all on display upon
of fish on display, it was extremely hard to convey the entry to the store.
service we were providing. The first month of trade at Charcoal Fish was like
It was a challenging opening that required nothing I’d ever experienced before. Every day we
a lot of rethinking about how we served more and more guests. It was
could make things simpler for people Without hastily shifting wonderful to be cooking again! At the
to understand while emphasising end of each week we would discover we
the goalposts on the retail
our celebration of quality instead had cooked a tonne of fish and another
display or our level of
of quantity. Communication with tonne of potatoes for chips.
service to those who did
visitors to our butchery during this Having literally been in the trenches
come to buy fish in the early
time was of paramount importance so months of trade, the team cooking for that whole time, I had
that they understood what they could failed to go and see the team at Fish
and I went to work on what
do, what we could do for them and Butchery. After those initial weeks of
the space was primarily
what was available. opening, I returned to Paddington
intended for – providing
Without hastily shifting the goalposts and was confronted with a team that
Saint Peter with a higher
on the retail display or our level of standard of fish that was had been stretched to their limits. The
service to those who did come to buy both more diverse and used coolroom ceiling had started to cave
fish in the early months of trade, the in due to the weight of the Murray
a greater percentage of one
team and I went to work on what the cod that we had been hanging to serve
single fish.
space was primarily intended for – at Charcoal Fish, and the freezer and
providing Saint Peter with a higher coolrooms were all full to the brim with
standard of fish that was both more diverse and the offcuts, offal and sundries.
used a greater percentage of one single fish. Saint Peter hadn’t even reopened at this point, and we
Naturally, as Saint Peter became busier and internal needed Fish Butchery to be preparing and processing
and external expectations grew, we started to see a fish for both venues. Although not wanting to open a
number of our restaurant customers and locals begin fourth venue, Julie and I decided that to make the work
to use Fish Butchery for fish and chips on weekends, or that we were doing at Fish Butchery sustainable – and
to purchase the occasional fillet of fish for their dinner not just ethically and economically but for our team
during their work weeks. Christmas, Mother’s Day and as well – we would need to open a larger production
Easter were all significant days of trade that helped Fish space. Within 12 weeks, the new Fish Butchery opened
Butchery solidify itself into people’s weekly routines. at Waterloo, about a 15-minute drive from Saint Peter.
The Covid lockdown of 2020 meant that Fish This was one of the biggest undertakings we had faced
Butchery needed to support Saint Peter as a business by far. The initial discussions were that the space would
while it was closed to the public. During this time we be part production, part retail, part takeaway and part
introduced Mr Niland at Home, which would provide home for our fish butchery masterclasses, and this is
meal kits to our local community and those who roughly what has transpired.
wanted to experience Saint Peter in their own spaces.
At the same time, we reorientated the space at Saint
Peter into one long counter for half the amount of
guests, a decision made to deliver greater focus and
creative opportunity to the restaurant.
 THE FUTURE

I’ve outlined the genesis of Fish Butchery in detail here along with an ever-changing climate.
for a reason: at some point in time – through success or But if we turn up today and attempt to raise the
consumer demand – all businesses face a decision about standard just ever so slightly then we will see change.
whether to grow and expand while maintaining and Perhaps when we see the entire fish for its limitless
further advancing their core beliefs and best practices. potential both as a food resource and for alternate
Or, alternatively, deciding to sacrifice quality for quantity applications in the world around us, the problem won’t
or convenience over craft, resulting in (perhaps) better seem so impossible.
efficiency and greater profit. But at what cost? It is those who interact with fish on a daily basis – on
Running any kind of fish business, big or small, is the water, in the market, in the kitchen and, ultimately,
incredibly challenging and continues to become even on the table – who control whether change can really
more difficult with the rising cost of labour and goods happen.

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK

This book is designed to show the reader – and the This book is not a call to action for every home cook
industry at large – the vast range of possibilities that to make their own fish liver pâté or go about whipping
exist when that fish is treated correctly, from those up a quick batch of fish sausages. Instead, I see it
initial moments of capture and transport through to primarily as a stimulus for the industry – a whole-fish
being butchered and processed and, finally, making solution to an existing problem that will help everyone
an appearance on the plate. Split into three sections reach a higher return from one single fish.
that reflect this journey – Catch, Cut and Craft – the I do imagine that many who read these pages will
opportunities for adding value to fish at each stage are be creatively inspired or motivated to implement some
examined in detail, with step-by-step breakdowns of the of these new methods and practices. I must mention,
various cuts we employ at Fish Butchery and the recipes though, that to cherrypick and waste in order to achieve
involved in transforming the building blocks into a singular outcome will put us in no better position
desirable finished products. than the one we are in right now.
 CATCH

This section aims to shed some light on how humans have historically worked
with fish. It ranges from examining the role of a ‘fishmonger’ and the need for us
to distinguish between this and what I suggest we call a ‘fish butcher’ (as the two do
very different types of work from the point of view of a fisher and their decision-
making) while also discussing critical issues involved in the landing, storing and
processing of fish once caught, including dry-ageing, rigor mortis and the role
that water can play in the degradation of landed fish stocks. My hope here is to
remove the onus from the consumer around the quality and diversity of the fish
being sold and place this weight squarely on the shoulders of the industry instead.
I’m very aware that to truly change the culture and cut through stereotypical
ways of thinking about fish will require a tremendous amount of skilled labour
when looking through a global lens. This section attempts to identify some of the
many issues and fractures that exist within the seafood-handling industry and
offer some suggestions about how we can bring positive solutions to the ways we
interact with our waters in the future without completely starving the world of fish.
It’s a beginning.
 MONGER VS BUTCHER

see this book as a scaffold for a curriculum that So when the fish arrives at market, what is the
I sees fish butchery as a profession. current standard?
But what about the fishmonger? Simply put, Staff employed by the fishmongers are instructed
a fishmonger is someone who deals and trades in to strip the fish of its scales and offal and sell it as a
fish. The role of that individual currently extends to whole piece or, more often than not, remove all the
procurement, logistics, communication with customers scales, head, gills, offal and the majority of the bones
and suppliers, cutting fish for display or for wholesale in readiness for it to be sold as fillets.
clients and creating efficiency and profitability. Efficiencies and convenience result in the use of
The role of a modern fishmonger in 2023 needs to water throughout processing to keep stations free
continue to execute the above, however the cutting, of debris, blood and scales. The use of large coarse
fabrication and storage of the whole fish need to be scalers or, worse, a lottery barrel of abrasive surfaces
relinquished to a skilled fish butcher who innately remove the scales. After each step of the cleaning
knows the conversions and yields of any single fish. process, water is introduced to ensure speed is
Like a butcher of land-based animals, there is an maintained and ‘hygiene’ is upheld. In the end, we
understood and educated theory that is practised to either have fillets or we have a whole ‘cleaned’ fish.
achieve the full outcome for a single animal. If we’re lucky, there’ll be a loose bucket or separate
I’m absolutely certain that there is an ethically section where bones, heads, collars and sometimes
conscious mindset by the butcher when beginning livers or roe can be purchased.
to break down an animal, however I feel what’s more There are so many issues raised by this process that
consciously thought about before picking up a knife I’ll unpack, but the biggest one is the neglect of being
is the monetary component of the work. intentional about how to achieve the greatest yield
Can you imagine the gross amounts of lost revenue from one single fish. The solution to the crisis we face
and food waste there would be if a butcher didn’t know around the growing percentage of fish wasted globally
anything more than to simply cut the primary muscles is not to stop consumption, given there are over a billion
off a cow or pig and discard the rest? Or if we had no people who rely on fish as their main source of protein,
desire to eat the legs from a chicken or the tough but rather to see that when handled intelligently and
sinewy flesh from the tail of a cow? intentionally, one fish can represent the value of two.
A butcher of land-based animals focuses on a This responsibility lies with the industry, not the
much smaller paddock of species, with cattle, goats, customer. And the solution isn’t simple – to cut the
sheep, pigs and poultry most synonymous with our head, offal and bones off a fish and then throw them
domestic tables around the world. However, there are onto ice hoping to sell them is a flawed concept. Even
thousands of fish species each with their own unique a centre-cut fillet of salmon minus the bones and skin
anatomical compositions. Rather than thinking we need will still strike fear into the most accomplished of home
to understand every one, let’s at least attempt to create cooks. More is needed, and that’s where a fish butcher
some frameworks around more commonly seen fish. comes into the conversation.
 THE MONGER

A NOTE FROM TONY W E A R N E , FISHMONGER

y role as a fishmonger has changed tremendously because of climate change. In the past you could almost
M over the last 10 years. Although it might just be predict what would be at the markets the next day and
rosy retrospection, it did seem like simpler times back what fish would be available at certain times of the year.
then. There always appeared to be a relative abundance Lately, shifting currents and unusual weather patterns
of fish around – there was good fish and there was bad have blurred the lines of seasonality to the point where
fish, there was cheap fish and there was expensive fish. I can barely guess what fish might be available through
The aim of the game was to get the best fish at the best different times of the year.
price so you could sell it on to your customers and turn Another big change that I’ve noticed is the number
a profit. of whole fish we sell to our restaurant customers as
It was when I’d first started in the industry two opposed to fillets. Whether this is a result of the ‘nose-
decades ago that the idea of sustainability and ethics to-tail’ philosophy gaining popularity or the impact
really started to become a focus. I think the consumer of social media trends on the industry, or something
began to want to be more informed about the food entirely different, is hard for me to say. Nowadays
they ate (or at least be appeased that what they were I see my role as not so much buying huge quantities
consuming didn’t have a negative footprint). And at the of seafood, filleting it up and selling it but more
same time there was a big push from the government about sourcing niche products, developing working
through legislation, licensing and enforcing commercial relationships with fishers and suppliers, and educating
fishing quotas. This impacted the range of species being customers.
caught or targeted by fishers, as well as which ones were I feel as though the industry as a whole has cleaned
desirable to the customer. While some wild catches itself up. There is now very little ‘black market’ fish
that utilised certain catch methods became niche, fish around and a strong onus on the correct labelling of
farming gained momentum. Aquaculture that could species and country of origin. Fishmongers in general
tick all these boxes became popular menu items for have become more transparent in their dealings and
restaurants. Now my percentage of farmed fish to wild have far more accountability and responsibility than in
fish is almost fifty-fifty, whereas in the past aquaculture the past.
made up only a small percentage of the volume that One thing that hasn’t changed is the value of good
we sold. relationships. Good operators will always have a quality
There does seem to be less wild-caught fish around. product for a fair price. In very recent times this has
Whether this is due to the absence of fish or the result become even more integral to running a successful
of quota restrictions and other external factors is business. When there is no abundance of produce, we
something a fisher is best to answer. There has also must rely on those relationships we’ve built to ensure
been a noticeable loss of seasonality in seafood, perhaps a consistent supply of quality seafood.
 THE BUTCHER

A N O T E F R O M DA R R E N O’ R O U R K E , H E A D B U T C H E R AT V I C ’ S M E AT S

here was a time when butchers respected their Butchery for me starts with the land, the farmers –
T craft, the animals they plied their trade on and who are its custodians – and the animals in partnership
the land from which they came. It was a time when an with one another. Without this holy trinity there would
animal was given a long and cared-for life, harvested be no butchery. For me it’s just unthinkable to not
and consumed with respect and used in its entirety. The have a fascination and a respect for these foundations.
industrialised food systems and increasingly gluttonous Understanding the land and people sets the scene for
consumption of meat has, over the years, led us down how the butcher plays their part; it’s just not good
a path to a new and alarming way of thinking that enough to disregard all facets of butchery and focus
has sadly become the norm. Encouragingly, though, solely on the lifeless chunk of flesh on the block in front
the tide is turning, even if we’ve largely forgotten the of us. I believe all butchers should have a desire to better
ideals, techniques and ethics of conscious consumption understand how that piece of flesh came to be on that
that our grandparents lived their lives by willingly and block, and then the same fascination and interest in the
happily, not because they knew no better but, in fact, next step – the cooking. Knowing what sets a braising
because they knew better. cut apart from a grilling cut, or where the most collagen
My path to butchery came via a series of crossroads. is found and how to best utilise it and transform it into
A series of fortunate and life-changing events. A meal of gelatine, whether for a jelly or for the unmatchable
grilled sardines, anchovies and fish stew in the northern texture that beef cheeks possess when collagen becomes
Spanish town of Oviedo on a deserted beach that, at gelatine during a long, slow braise. A butcher will never
25 years of age, made me think of food as something be as good as they can be if they have no interest in the
not just simply to sustain life but as one of its most before or the after. It’s as simple as that.
powerful and inspiring pleasures. Ten years in the As a trade and a craft, butchery started out of the
kitchen with the last few under chef Alex Herbert set necessity to feed and nourish. An animal was born,
some wheels in motion that haven’t stopped moving fed, raised and harvested with respect and an inherent
since. Long before it was the done thing to know a reverence for the life that would inevitably be taken.
farmer or buy from the bush, Alex was sourcing meat, A carcass was utilised in its entirety, with nothing left
fish and dairy direct from farmers. It was second nature on the waste pile. Let me say that again: there was no
to her and, subconsciously, it became second nature to waste. Whether some of the inedible organs and less
me too. But if the kitchen lit a fire in my belly for food, palatable pieces were used for fertilising and nourishing
acclaimed butcher Victor Churchill and the people the land or whether some were eaten as is, or cooked
I learned from there fuelled that fire and continued or cured for the leaner times, it was all used. There was
to nurture it for these last 14 years. The chef on a ‘gap no real priority assigned to any one muscle, organ or
year’ as a butcher who had only ever broken the odd bone as the entire carcass had a use. Clothing, fuel,
lamb after service became fascinated with butchery. The food, tools, nourishment of body or land – it all had
techniques, the terminology, the muscles – everything a purpose. We’re a spoiled race now where we have
consumed me and filled me with more questions than choices everywhere, and I’m not suggesting that is a
I had answers. bad thing. I do, however, believe our vast choices have
steered our ethical attention and mindset away from nothing but damage to the cause of whole-animal
the essence of taking a life. Use it all, use it well and use butchery. No one can, hand on heart, say an eye fillet is
it sparingly. That has to be the goal. better than a beef cheek if both are cooked appropriately
Aside from being ethically the right thing to do, and to their full potential. A Ferrari is no good on
whole-carcass utilisation gives the butcher access to a dirt track just as a tenderloin is no good in a daube
every part of the body to be able to fabricate, showcase of beef or a beef shin on a grill. It’s not rocket science.
and talk about the many cuts they have in their display. This view that tenderness equates to quality needs to
Topside tender will rarely be seen in a shop using be erased from people’s minds and fast. Quality should
anything but carton meat, and petite tender (teres in fact be dictated by the building blocks that made
major) and velvet steak are an impossibility unless the the muscle that sits on our chopping block and later
butcher is buying cartons of heel muscle and matambre on our plate. Genetics, care, feeding length and quality
(the twitch muscle that moves rapidly under the hide of life, and humane, calm and swift slaughter followed
of cattle to discourage flies, birds and other annoying by immaculate post-death processing are what will
animals from landing on their backs). Not to mention ultimately write the rest of the story and dictate quality.
all that suet (visceral fat from around the kidneys) that Take short cuts on these and you’ve compromised the
can be transformed into the most magic liquid gold or quality, and no butcher or chef can right these wrongs
Christmas pudding. The list goes on and on. no matter how hard they try.
Aside from the greater flexibility and options the Another vital and welcome shift in opinion and
butcher of whole carcasses has, there is also the ability practice over the past few years has dictated that we
to make the traditionally expensive cuts cheaper. All all – butcher and chefs – give more attention and focus
those sweet cuts – sirloin, scotch, tenderloin – can be where it belongs, to the producers. We are nothing
made a little more accessible as the butcher has the without them and their product, and I believe we are
opportunity to showcase other cuts normally destined merely (and I don’t say that with any disrespect to other
for the grinder in the display. The more carcass balance butchers) a conduit from them to the consumer. I’m
the butcher is able to achieve, the more they can spread not for a second suggesting butchers aren’t important
the burden of cost across the carcass. and our skills and knowledge aren’t needed. Without
There is only one other important ingredient in this butchers, the whole system will fall over and our
scenario, and it’s a deal-breaker and a big part of why suppliers and customers will be left with nothing.
whole-carcass butchery began its fall from grace: the Supply-chain anarchy! I just feel that the true light
butcher needs buy-in from their customers. We need should be shone on the people who breed, grow, feed
our customers to have the same fascination we have. and process our food. It is like a building without the
They need to trust us and our recommendations. They floor. Without the foundations we have nothing, or
need to know that we are the experts. And then we truly at the very least we have a substandard and inferior
need to be the experts lest we demolish all the trust our product that not even the best chef or butcher can
customers have in us. elevate to the high standards we expect and deserve.
I’m not quite sure where the ridiculous notion It’s pretty simple in my eyes. Let the produce do the
that tender equals quality came from, but it has done talking and we can help shout that story even louder.
 THE PROBLEM WITH WET FISH

This is a controversial topic that inevitably brings about As this fresh water usually comes from a tap and
polarised viewpoints. is not at 0°C (30°F) either, this also causes a break in
I think we need to start at the very beginning and the cold-chain control of the fish, compromising its
explain that, firstly, a poorly killed fish or one that is shelf life even further. And when you freeze a fillet in
neglected immediately post-capture can detrimentally this condition, the water inside the cells expands as it
affect the quality of the texture, shelf life, internal and turns to ice and ruptures many more cells, so when you
external aesthetic quality and – above all – flavour. defrost it you will have a compromised, mushy fillet.
Washing your fish in fresh water is a definitive no Beyond the damage that washing a fish does to
in the business of processing fish, and I’ll explain why. the fish itself, the impact of this process is far more
Water molecules move across semipermeable cell detrimental to the aroma and aesthetic of the venue
membranes through a process known as osmosis. where the fish is being processed. Very rarely would
They usually do this in order to achieve an equilibrium you walk into a fish shop or market that didn’t have
where the liquid on both sides of the membrane is a strong ‘fishy’ aroma; this will have been caused by the
exactly the same. trimethylamine oxide in the fish breaking down and
So when a saltwater fish comes into contact with converting into ammonia, in turn creating the odour
fresh water, that fresh water will immediately start to that we refer to as ‘fishy’, a breakdown promoted by
penetrate the fish’s cells in order to try to make them excess washing, disruption of cold-chain control and
less salty. When this happens the cells can become so rupturing of the fish’s cell walls.
full of liquid that they rupture, causing the fish flesh Remove the washing and wet-processing and not
to turn an opaque white colour. This not only degrades only will you have a fish that lasts longer, tastes better
the texture of the fish but also its shelf life, as it creates and is easier to cook with, but a market, fish shop or
an exposed and moist environment for bacteria to supermarket that has no smell at all.
accumulate and thrive.
 W H AT IS R IGOR MORTIS?

In fish, energy is stored in the form of adenosine While respiration would have stopped completely,
triphosphate (ATP), which is produced using oxygen electrical nerve messages from the brain and spinal
during the process of aerobic respiration. When cord signalling for muscle contractions do not cease.
required, ATP is then able to bind to muscles before As the muscles continue to contract, an ever-increasing
breaking down into adenosine diphosphate (ADP) and amount of ADP is not replaced, and from head to tail
phosphate, in the process releasing energy that is then the fish starts to stiffen up in a process we know as rigor
used to power muscle contractions. mortis. The process of rigor mortis takes time to set in,
The remaining ADP molecule that is still bound typically 16 to 24 hours in a fish, depending on its size.
to muscles is then replaced with a new ATP molecule, In a fish post-mortem, muscle contractions continue
which causes the muscle to relax. The process then to occur without the supply of ATP from aerobic
repeats itself as muscle contraction continues. respiration. The dead fish is still able to produce ATP
When fish die, obviously respiration no longer through the same process of anaerobic respiration in
continues, which means that there is no longer oxygen order to meet the ATP demand. This then results in
available to produce new ATP. This means that there the same build-up of lactic acid, causing a potential
is no longer a constant supply of ATP available to sourness in taste and a compromised texture due to
replace ADP, which results in the muscles of the fish the acid cooking the flesh from the inside out.
being unable to relax.

DR Y-AGED F I S H

The first time the penny dropped for me about the Flavours and textures aside, the dry-ageing or
possibilities of fish-ageing was when I started working correct preparation and storage of fish like this was
at Fish Face in Darlinghurst some 17 years ago. It was also intended to arm my Saint Peter team and me with
there that I remember being scolded one night for the ability to maintain an excellent day one–quality
having forgotten to cover my portions of fish in the fish for an extended period in case we didn’t sell what
service fridge. Because they had sat under the fan all we purchased in a reasonable period of time. The
night, the skin had dried out. Despite being told that result of this intentional storage method was that the
this would result in an inferior product because the fish performed significantly better. Customers started
fish had not been stored correctly, I cooked them and commenting on how delicious the fish was or, on some
noticed that they were so much simpler to work with. occasions, making comments like ‘Wow, this fish is so
The skin was far crunchier when pan-fried, the wetness beautiful and fresh’ about a three-week-old tuna.
of the exterior flesh had been partially dried and Since introducing this technique formally in my
everything just seemed, well, easier. first book, The Whole Fish Cookbook , I want to touch
It felt like I was cheating. on it again as I feel it deserves some points of clarity.
Years later I applied the same thinking to a whole fish When dry-ageing fish, all the following need to
and, rather than letting it lay on a tray, I hooked it from be considered:
the tail, hung it and left it to age in a coolroom.1 I haven’t
looked back since – when applied correctly, ageing a fish 1. It is critical that the fish you wish to work with has
like this adds a profound amount of flavour, enhances been caught, killed and transported correctly (see page
the texture and composition of the flesh and results in 35), otherwise you are already on the back foot and no
a superior outcome when pan-frying or grilling. amount of ageing will result in an optimal outcome.

1. Hanging a larger fish from a hook like this and storing smaller fish on perforated trays/racks were both solutions to the issues around wet fish. Why did I hang the fish? The problem
that I was trying to resolve was that when a fish lays on a tray for a day or even a number of hours, it will have moisture underneath it and the top side will start to dry if uncovered.
To combat this, the fish can be turned each day to move the wet side up to dry and dry side down for moisture and so on. However, when moisture created by condensation accumulates,
it can result in bacterial proliferation. So rather than purchasing fewer fish more frequently to avoid potential spoilage, the idea was to keep the fish completely dry throughout the whole
process post-mortem.
2. A fish that’s washed during processing (see page 28) Everyone’s optimum humidity for dry-ageing will
will likewise never reach its full potential (not only in differ based on their own personal theory and the
taste but also in flavour, aroma and texture). quality of the fish, however we have found anywhere
between 75 and 80 per cent to be our sweet spot. Again,
3. Dry-ageing a fish takes place without the use of any salt
this will be subject to a multitude of variables: size,
or preservatives.
species, amount of fat, method of catch, time of year,
4. Dry-ageing is the process of intentional and controlled quality of refrigeration and handling – the list goes on.
moisture loss to promote more of the fish’s natural fats. Depending on the fish species in question, the dry-
Furthermore, maturing a fish on the bone will allow the ageing method we use in our larger rooms results in the
development of glutamates within the fish, giving you loss of somewhere between 2 and 3 per cent moisture
a more savoury flavour profile and also a flavour that per day. Financially, this is a substantial cost, just like
is identifiable from species to species. the maturation of beef or lamb, but it is worth it for the
improvements in flavour, texture and superior pan-fry
5. Dry-ageing is a necessity for the fish industry to
or grill results.
mitigate the gross amounts of fish waste produced
every year. Lastly, it’s worth considering the following: if a fish
is delicious, does this mean it’s fresh? And why should
It must also be said that a static (or almost static) this matter? The argument I hear a lot is ‘why not just
coolroom is critical to achieve an optimal outcome.2 eat the fish fresh?’, and the answer is that all fish have
The use of a fan-cooled coolroom will rapidly speed certain moments where they will taste considerably
up the moisture loss of the fish without it developing better. This may mean, for example, that the window to
any depth of flavour. There are now a multitude of consume the best sardines or anchovies in the world lies
commercial refrigeration options for storing fish and within the first 5 or 6 hours of them coming out of the
meat protein, and often you will find salt bricks in the water. Or that a turbot is at its most memorable in the
base of refrigeration systems designed for ageing meat. first 48 hours out of the water but then peaks again with
Naturally, the salt bricks will draw moisture from the new-found flavour and texture some 10 days later with
fish, so I understand their purpose, however from the a reduced amount of moisture and more fat prominent.
numerous tests we have conducted, the results are as The idea is to manage and control the variables of fish
severe as placing the fish in a conventional fan-based catching, processing and storing to maximise the full
coolroom. The simplest solution to this is to just take potential of its shelf life.
the salt bricks out.
It is the role of the fish butcher or chef to identify
at what point the right amount of moisture has been A NOT E ON S C O M B R O I D
removed from the fish. Some (most) would argue, ‘How ( H I S TA M I N E ) F O OD P O I S O N I N G
ridiculous, no one wants to eat a dry fish.’ I couldn’t Scombroid, or histamine, food poisoning can occur
agree more with that, however we are not talking about when an individual consumes certain types of fish
weeks and months of ‘drying’ to result in an emaciated containing high levels of histamine – a result of bacterial
fish jerky. This is controlled moisture loss with the enzyme activity that has occurred in the fish post-death.
intention to stop when the fish has reached the desired The fish types affected are those from the scombroid
dryness. I know personally that I don’t want to age a family, including tuna, mackerel, bonito and kingfish
whiting past day four as it’s just not the same memory- (yellowtail), but also non-scombroid family fish including
burning experience as it was when it was freshly landed. mahi-mahi, marlin and swordfish. The histamine can’t be
It is also important to note that certain undesirable destroyed by cooking, smoking or freezing, with the only
qualities in a fish will become prominent even if preventative measures that can remove or minimise the
the dry-ageing method is followed in the handling. risk of this enzyme activity occurring relying on the fish
A fish with a seaweed-rich diet that is matured too being chilled soon after being caught and then being kept
long, for example, can not only end up dry as it lacks refrigerated until it is cooked, preserved or consumed.
considerable intramuscular fat but also deliver a flavour When handling these fish then, particular care in
profile with an iodine metallic taste. refrigeration is therefore necessary.

2. Recently, Fish Butchery has moved into a far bigger commercial coolroom to store the majority of its fish, and while the room is predominantly a static space, the assistance of a
fan functioning at 10 per cent capacity allows the room to maintain its cold temperature when being opened and closed. Without this, the room temperature would fluctuate too
aggressively, and it would take far too long for it to cool down again after opening. This was a necessary function and a system we needed to create if we were going to upscale our
operation into something more commercially viable. We have a number of coolrooms now across our businesses – the smaller two-door systems allow us to work with a very limited
number of products and perform very well because they are not trafficked as frequently as our bigger spaces. The rooms all have rails for hanging the larger fish and shelving for
perforated gastronomes or racking for smaller fish.
 A FISH’S JOURNEY
FROM SEA TO STORE

hile it might seem somewhat contrary to finish 3. Place the fish in an ice slurry to further remove lactic
W this section with the very beginning of a fish’s acid as well as reduce the temperature of the fish.
journey to our plates, nothing is more important in It’s then critical that the fish is transported correctly
determining product quality within the fish industry from catch to market, keeping it between 0 and 1°C
than an understanding of the ‘best practice’ processes (30°F). This can be done through the use of ice packs
involved in landing the fish in the first place and getting surrounding the bottom, sides and top of the fish.
them to their final destination. For all the preceding Alternatively, if shaved ice needs to be used then keep
conversation around fish butchery, handling, dry- this separate from the actual fish by placing
an impermeable sheet between fish and ice.
ageing and preparation, unless this first step in the
chain is adhered to, an inferior result will be all At this point, the individuals who are purchasing
but guaranteed. the fish that have been caught and killed need to have
For line-caught fish, the process for a fisher is to bait established what they are doing with the whole fish.
up, throw a line in and wait until the fish jumps on to What’s the game plan? There is no point purchasing a
the hook. When the fish can’t circulate the amount of fish only for its fillets as this is exactly where the problem
oxygen it needs to resist, it gives up the fight. While lies. Upon arriving at the market or store, the fish
trying to escape, the fish has developed a significant needs to be removed from the packaging into a chilled
amount of lactic acid in its muscles. At this point it is environment to ensure it stays as cold as possible. Then
gold standard for a fisher to: the purchaser needs to prepare the fish as follows:
1. Spike the fish in the head to inflict an immediate 4. Scale the fish, (see page 49) using the method best
death. Allowing a fish to thrash around and die slowly suited to the fish size. This might mean using a spoon
in a bucket of water or open container is unacceptable for very small fish, a small head scaler for a plate-
– it causes a tremendous amount of unnecessary stress sized fish or a variety of sized ring scalers for larger
to the fish, reduces the eating quality and shortens the fish. Larger fish can also be scaled with a sharp knife.
shelf life of the flesh. Spiking of the brain (originally While most of the time scales will make up a very
a Japanese technique called ikijime or ikejime, small percentage of waste, they too can be cooked a
pronounced ‘iki-jimi’) will kill fish immediately; number of different ways to achieve a unique textural
it should be done quickly – preferably within a minute outcome. Once the scales are removed, the fish must be
of it being caught. wiped with paper towel or a cloth to ensure that none
2. Clip the gills to bleed the fish. If the fish is not bled remain. The temptation here is to wash the fish and the
surrounding surfaces down thoroughly to speed the
correctly then the blood that resides within the fish
will return to the flesh. This causes a number of issues: process up, but resist as this is where the issues begin
(see pages 28).
it dramatically shortens the shelf life of the fish, it
visually alters the colour of the flesh and the flavour of
the fish is compromised where it starts to carry a heavy
metallic taint.
5. Remove the organs from the fish. ‘Gutting’ conjures on toast. The other part of the fish that is sometimes
images of waste, blood and mess to clean up, but a regarded as offal is the head, a somewhat fragile piece
correctly gutted fish should be a simple, quick and of the puzzle that contains soft organs like the eyes
clean process. The art lies in the selection of sharp tools, and brain and requires some intentional thought. The
including scissors and a straight-edge (non-flex) knife. head can remain on the fish to make it a part of the
A fish can be gutted in a number of different ways (as preparation (see,for example, page 92, where the head
demonstrated on page 49), but be mindful that if your is split so the fish can be grilled) or it can be removed
knife is inserted too deeply into the cavity of a fish then then steamed or simply cooked with the intention to
you will puncture the organs within, which makes it pick the meat from it for another purpose. Another very
more challenging to use them in other preparations and niche concept (yet fascinating all the same) is to use the
creates a lot of mess to clean up afterwards. Once the vitreous humour in the eyes in ice cream (see page 253).
organs and gills are removed, discard the gills and gall
bladder as these (at least to me) have very little culinary 6. Consider your timeframe. If, at the market or store,
application. At this stage, wipe the cavity of the fish it is known that the fish at hand will not be purchased
completely clear of any blood or residue using a cloth or used in the next few days then the fillets will be
or paper towel, but DON’T WASH THE FISH. left on the bone. Removing the fillets from the bone
Just as the exterior quality points of a fish are exposes the flesh to light and oxygen, which will affect
considered, the interior elements must also be – if the its taste and texture. Leaving it on the bone starts to
offal inside the fish is compromised in any way then develop its natural glutamates, which make the fish
unfortunately this will make up a part of the waste or taste more savoury and remarkably more delicious.
need to be considered in other ways. The challenge This then feeds into the conversation around dry-ageing
now is sorting through the usable organs of the fish and and intentional moisture loss in a fish to create desirable
actioning immediate conversions to them; this might flavours and textures.3
mean salting the heart, spleen, intestines, stomach and
7. See pages 79–149 for cuts.
kidneys in readiness for applications the following week
or removing the liver and trimming it in readiness to
make pâté or simply pan-frying for salads or to serve

3. This is not a conversation about putting a fish into a coolroom for a month and it somehow becoming significantly better; this is the empowering knowledge that if you handle a fish
correctly from step 1 to step 7 then you will be working with a far superior product that you have yielded more from and have more time with. Some fish are so much better on days one,
two and three, and I would suggest using your instincts to make this judgement. However, throwing a perfectly good fish in the bin after three days or selling a badly handled fish to an
unassuming consumer who will have a poor experience is just sending the whole industry backwards, along with adding to the amount of food wasted every year.
 THE FISHER

A N O T E F ROM LU K E BU C H HOL Z , C O M M E R C IA L F I S H E R

ommercial fishing for us was not something passed enough ice on our fish even though when it left us the
C down over generations, so when my brother and boxes were full, which meant our fish had been left out
I decided to start we didn’t have any bad habits. We somewhere and our ice had melted. To combat this, we
came with a fresh set of eyes and, because we weren’t took the transport side into our own hands as well.
the best fishers, we needed to get maximum return from We do our best to get our product from the water to the
what we caught. end consumer as quickly as possible (usually between
We didn’t realise it at the time but our practices 24 and 48 hours, but sometimes as fast as 3 hours for
of bleeding and ikijime spike killing were things our local chefs).
I had learned 15 years earlier when I was a keen Instagram was our social media platform and that
spearfisherman. We would kill our fish as soon as really took things to the next level with new customers.
possible so that the sharks wouldn’t come in, and we’d Having direct contact with chefs took the middlemen
bleed them straight away by gill clipping, because that’s out of the equation which essentially doubled – if not
what the guy I had learned under was doing. tripled – our returns. The fluctuations of fish prices
We also noticed that the fish tasted significantly at the markets were always really hard to predict and,
better when they were killed with a kill shot instantly. irrespective of the quality of catch, liable to change
The fish didn’t have time to stress or build up lactic acid overnight. We noticed that as soon as a fish comes into
from fighting on the line. season, like bonito, for example, the price on the market
I found it strange that this wasn’t normal practice floor would drop from 25 dollars a kilo to 5 dollars
with commercial fishers – it was all about the ‘kilos’, a kilo over the space of a week and stay there for the
so to speak. We also noticed that fish in the shopfronts remainder of the season.
didn’t look like our fish. They were knocked around, By having direct contact with our chefs we were able
with scales missing or white sunken eyes. We had to set a year-round flat rate, which worked out better
started out as lobster fishers – trapping fish in for both us and our chefs as they knew what to expect
between pulling lobster traps – and sold all our before ordering. The set-up and running costs of doing
fish through the local co-op, which we found very everything in-house do add up and can be broken down
frustrating as the majority of our fish were sent to like this (prices listed in Australian dollars):
markets. If multiple other fishers weighed in the same
species of fish we would all get paid the same amount, ice machines (we have two) – $10,000 each
irrespective of the difference in quality of our fish at
coolroom – $12,000
the other end.
So we decided to go out on our own and do things delivery truck – $ 35,000
our way. processing/packing facility – $40,000
We started shopping fish around the country using
road transport, which was another issue for us. There other equipment (scales, fish boxes etc.) – $2000
was nothing worse than our fish getting lost or put running costs (for the ice machines and coolrooms) –
on the wrong truck or being told that we didn’t have $750 per quarter
 maintenance and servicing on the delivery truck – delivery truck is cleaned and readied for the next run.
$200 per month It doesn’t stop there, though, because we then have to
chase up accounts and reconcile outstanding invoices
fish receiver’s licence – $4000 per year
that can affect a small business’s cash flow.
food-safe licence – $2000 per year There are other issues that can slow down orders
insurance on equipment and delivery vehicle – $2000 too, including the day the fish is caught and the day it
per year. is delivered (most chefs want their fish on Tuesday or
Wednesday for prep), the amount of fish caught (for us
Like in any business, there are always upfront and to deliver from the mid-north coast of NSW to, say, the
one-off costs, but that is still money that needs to be Gold Coast or Sydney, we need at least 100 kilograms
accounted for and recovered at some stage. of orders to be financially viable). We try not to fish
There are other factors that can affect your catch rate. over the weekend as we have found it’s extremely
The extra time it takes to carry out the kill methods difficult to move fish at that time, and I don’t like
mentioned above as opposed to just throwing fish sending fish that has been sitting around for three
directly into an ice slurry can reduce your catch rate days to the markets.
by up to 50 per cent. Take bonito fishing, for instance. We plan to do the majority of our fishing from
If two boats were fishing side by side using the same Monday to Thursday each week, but we still have to
fishing techniques, lures and bait, then our catch using factor in weather, tides, fishing conditions and outside
these kill methods would be 25 to 50 per cent less at the influences like recreational fishermen or extreme events
end of the day and we would have to stay back an extra like cyclones or floods (our river has flooded three
hour or two to fill the same number of orders as the times this year alone, which basically stops all fishing
other boat. for at least two weeks). And sometimes the fish just
There is also the extra workload that comes with don’t want to play ball, which adds an extra stress.
what we do. About 90 per cent of commercial fishers To summarise the whole picture, the extra workload
drop their catch off at a local co-op or wholesaler and involved in doing things our way would be at least 100
get paid the following week. After catching our fish, per cent more than the industry standard of dropping
we have to start the process of contacting our chefs your fish off at the local co-op and getting paid the
and letting them know what we have. As not every next week, but financially we are around 150 to 200
chef orders every time we have fish (they may have per cent better off than those businesses. It’s not all
a function on, they may have already ordered their fish, about numbers, though – we are extremely proud of
or they simply don’t want the fish that we have), you what we do and how we do it, and most of all we love
need an extensive range of clients to be able to move the enjoyment that chefs and consumers get from our
volumes of fish, and building our customer base has fish. I want this business to be here for my kids and
taken time and patience. Once all the orders are in we their kids, so I feel we have a duty of care to provide
head out to our packing shed to prepare the orders and for them by doing the right thing, looking after every
load up our delivery truck. That’s followed by invoices fish that we pull from the ocean and passing on our
and a delivery plan for our driver (who can sometimes knowledge so they can keep improving on our fishing
be my brother, my wife or me) to use the following day. methods and reduce the impact we have on our oceans
A run can take up to 15 hours to complete, then the and wildlife.
 CUT

Whether it’s the head, tail or offal contained within, a fish presents so much
more culinary possibility than simply that central fillet cut. There is incredible
opportunity within a single fish to realise not only a more desirable and delicious
outcome but one that is intentionally seeking the greatest possible yield and
minimising what goes in the bin
This section outlines the constituent parts of a fish, the tools needed to process
one efficiently, the steps involved in preparing a fish for butchery and a variety of
the cuts into which they can be transformed, with the aim of minimising waste and
treating the whole animal with respect. Simply put, our approach to processing
a fish should be the same as how a butcher would break down a pig. Why do we
think it’s okay to throw half a fish in the bin?
Intelligence and intentionality will be what saves our global fish stocks.
 TOOLS OF THE TRADE

KNIVES MINCER SCALES ROB OT C OU P E

The choice of knives is so much subject to the individual A hugely important piece of equipment for a Having a reliable, accurate set of kitchen scales is critical We use a Robot Coupe to achieve the specific textures
and their preferences. I, for example, only like to work commercial fish business to have to hand, a mincer when portioning fish. Even a 10 to 20 g (¼ to ¾ oz) we need within our mortadella and frankfurt recipes
with knives that have no flexibility in them at all, but will allow you to convert the scraps and less desirable variance between portions can not only frustrate paying (see pages 158 and 185).
this is a personal choice. Below are some of my favourite parts of the fish into beautiful fish mince for sausages, customers if they feel they are short-changed, but can
knives and the reason I use them. patties and more. Half the repertoire of a butcher of also swing the other way and start to affect the financial C OM B I NAT ION ST E A M
land-based animals wouldn’t exist without a mincer, sustainability of your business if portions are overcut. A N D C ON V E C T ION OV E N
Chef ’s Knife (230 MM BLADE) Excellent for all-purpose so why not fish? On top of that, it’s essential to have a large set of scales
cutting of vegetables, portioning fish and cutting the that can determine the weight of the whole fish being A combination steam and convection oven (we use
scales off a fish. received so you can work out yields and costs before the a Rational Combi) gives us complete control over
M E AT S L I C E R
knife even goes in. temperature and humidity, allowing us to steam and
Long Sabatier Knife (230 MM BLADE) This knife is my A good meat slicer is an invaluable piece of kit that roast at low temperatures. Whichever oven you use,
perfect filleting tool for larger fish species as it allows pays for itself very quickly. We use it religiously for follow the suggested times, oven temperature and
me to efficiently make my fillet in three or four cuts due DIG I TA L P ROB E T H E R M OM E T E R
slicing our mortadella, bacon, hams and cured fat. internal temperature to achieve the same outcome.
mainly to its length and durable hard steel. I also use
A critical piece of equipment that you must have in the
this knife to portion fillets.
HOOKS kitchen when working with both raw and cooked fish. SM OK E R S
Short Knife (130 MM BLADE) Having this knife to hand is This is to ensure not only safe practices and manage
S-shaped butcher’s hooks are a critical piece of the cold chain controls of a fish, but also to achieve We use two types of smokers at Fish Butchery, one is
important for fish like herring, mackerel, sardines and
equipment at Fish Butchery as they grant us the ability desirable textures and stable temperatures of fish the Bradley brand 6 rack digital smoker that is capable
even smaller plate-size fish. Smaller knives offer a lot of
to hang our fish. This prevents the fish protein from protein during cooking. of cold and hot smoking. When opening our Waterloo
control and speed during filleting but are also a great
coming into contact with another fish and allows the site we needed to get a larger system so we purchased
tool for gutting and knife-scaling a fish.
moisture that develops on the surface to evaporate, a 4 litre Smokai brand smoke generator which we
T R E SPA DE S AU S AG E F I L L E R
preventing the development of strong aromas, retrofitted to a standup commercial refrigerator. By
Cleaver (170 MM BLADE) Just as a meat butcher’s knife
keeping the flesh from spoiling and giving the skin We use this hand-cranked piece of kit to fill all the doing this we gave ourselves the ability to cold smoke
belt includes a cleaver, I feel a fish butcher needs one
the opportunity to begin to condition itself with the sausages we produce at Fish Butchery. To us this is an under fully refrigerated conditions.
within arm’s reach for assistance when splitting heads in
assistance of the static environment the fish is housed essential piece of equipment that really brings efficiency
half and getting through large vertebrae. Sharp, not too
in. Hooks also come in handy when it comes time to to our sausage and wider charcuterie program. C RYOVAC M AC H I N E
large and with a short handle.
roast a whole fish or bone-in cut (when roasting fish on
a tray, the bottom fillet always suffers the fate of being Essential for the storage of a number of our charcuterie
OX RU N N E R S ( B E E F C ASI NG S )
SCISSORS overcooked while the top is perfect – hanging a fish products. Once sealed in cryovac bags, there is less risk
securely while roasting allows the skin to crisp all the While it would be wonderful if we could use fish of contamination, along with a reduced risk of further
(SILKY OR CHIKAMASA, 100 MM BLADE)
way around to achieve a texturally consistent result). intestines to house our sausages and salamis (and trust moisture loss if the desired texture has already been
If there is one item in our artillery that I am still on the
me, I’ve tried) beef casings are significantly thicker and reached.
hunt for it would be a great pair of scissors. Although
far more shelf stable, making them an excellent choice.
we have over 50 pairs at Fish Butchery, we still haven’t FISH WEIGHT
found the ones we love. Many have come close, but V I TA- P R E P J U G B L E N DE R S
To me, you can’t grill or pan-fry a fish well without PAC OJ E T
when working in large volumes you need reliable, sharp, We use a number of different blenders, food processors
the assistance of a fish weight. Whether it’s our Saint
comfortable and lightweight scissors that cut through This piece of equipment helps us to produce refined, and grinders throughout the butchery, however, when
Peter fish weight, a fish press, burger press, a saucepan
large and small bones with ease. Scissors greatly brightly coloured herb oils and ultra-smooth rendered we are looking to achieve a very fine-textured outcome
filled with water, another frying pan or even a brick,
speed up our efficiency when filleting and doing more fats, as well as to bring our fish eye ice cream (see page we turn to a jug blender. A high-powered blender, it
the weight is essential for pressing the skin to the base
intricate butterflying and detailed cuts of fish. Invest in 253) to reality. produces the smooth results we need for preparations
of the pan and creating an even surface area, giving
a good pair! such as our liver pâté (see page 193).
you the best chance of achieving a crisp golden or
evenly blistered skin when pan-frying or grilling.
PLIERS AND TWEEZERS As heat rises around the portion of fish that you are
Every bit as important as scissors, pliers and tweezers cooking, a specifically stainless steel fish weight will
play a critical role in fish processing in order to remove also capture the heat and begin to conduct that warmth
large and small bones with ease. Using tweezers for a across the flesh side of the fish, meaning the cooking
job that needs pliers can often double the amount of time is reduced and the silky elegant texture of the fish 4. One of the biggest challenges cooks face both domestically and professionally is the execution of a pan-fried or grilled piece of fish. While a wet fish will always be a challenge to work
with on direct high-heat methods of cookery like grilling and pan-frying, finishing the cooking process is tricky regardless of whether your fish is wet or dry-aged. If a weight isn’t used
time needed to complete a task. remains.4 during cooking then although the skin might be crisp or well-coloured, how do you finish the cooking? Many believe that in the oven, skin side down is the best way, which I agree is
an excellent solution, however what happens more often than not is butter will be added to the pan, the portion turned flesh-side down and the browning butter spooned over the skin
to reinforce the colouring and to add flavour. Each to their own, but for a memorable experience, keep the flesh of the fish protected from the direct heat by the skin and notice the
extraordinary texture of the gently set flesh.
 SCALING, KNIFE-SCALING
AND GUTTING

Cutting the scales off a fish allows us to condition Too often when a fish is gutted, the whole length of the
the skin more intentionally as it no longer harbours blade is inserted and the contents of the fish destroyed
any unnecessary moisture. A sharp knife passing over for a lack of intentionality or consideration that it has
the surface of a fish does little to no damage to the any potential that exceeds becoming fertiliser. Take
condition of the flesh. The knife-scaling technique care not to puncture any of the offal when gutting –
depicted visually here is a traditional method from the recipes that follow will give an insight into what
Japan that aims to minimise bruising and textural can be achieved.
differences across the flesh of a fish that is intended
to be used for sushi and sashimi.
 SCALING

Flat fish such as flounder and small fish such as whiting, garfish, herring, sardines and snapper
can be scaled with a small knife, small-headed fish scaler or spoon.

1. Gently run the scaler from the tail to the

head, working methodically around the 2. Continue until you are confident all the
body of the fish and applying only enough scales are removed, then wipe the fish with
pressure to remove the scales. paper towel.
 SUKIBIKI (K N I F E - S C A L I N G )

For large fish (plate-size or bigger), scales can be cut off if your knife skills are up for this.

2. With a sharp knife that can be either short or long, The aim is to remove the scales and the membrane that
depending on your comfort, start at the tail end of the fish carries them, along with natural moisture present, while
and hold your knife almost directly parallel to the bench leaving the skin of the fish intact. The first few times you
while pressing against the scales/skin of the fish. Angle do this you may puncture the skin, exposing the fish’s
1. Firstly, using a pair of kitchen scissors, cut your knife very slightly to allow the blade to slip between flesh. Don’t panic, simply correct your knife and continue.
all the fins off the fish that will impede your the scales and the skin, then, using a back-and-forth
ability to cut the scales off easily. motion, begin to cut away the scales in long strips.
 2. Once the cavity is opened, use scissors
GUTTING
to cut the membrane that sits in front
and behind the gills and collar.
This is the traditional method of gutting, which to me is the cleanest and simplest. However, in some
of the cuts that follow there will be other methods of gutting that start in a different position and
enable other unique cuts to be achieved.

3. The gills can now be pulled down

towards the tail, and the internal organs
of the fish can be removed in one piece
with little mess.

4. Wipe the cavity and skin of the fish very

clean with paper towel. Reserve the offal.

1. To gut the fish, make an incision at the fish’s

anal vent. Using only the very tip of a sharp
knife, cut up through to the gills under the
bottom jaw of the fish.
 OFFAL UTILISATION

Before you start thinking about offal utilisation, they will be. And remember, the importance of dry-
understanding where your fish is from, who caught handling the whole fish explained in the early stages of
it and how long it’s been out of the water is critical. the book extends to this section as well – wet offal is
This information will give you confidence in the about as useful as a wet fillet. By keeping the organs dry
knowledge that your fish was meticulously handled and free from water, the taste, aromas and textures will
in unpolluted waters and that using the offal for be far better.
cooking is a good idea. While many modern diners hold the offal of land-
Just as with the quality points of the external based animals in high esteem, some may not be as
condition of a fish, we must look within for the same willing to celebrate these texturally challenging cuts in
details. It is so important to ensure that only the very a fish or even be aware that such an opportunity exists.
best and freshest offal is used from a fish. It is one thing The following pages showcase the various offal that exist
to minimise our waste when processing a fish, but serve within each fish along with some suggestions as to the
someone an inferior piece of fish offal as their first quality points, extraction and possibilities.
experience and you can only imagine how disappointed
 HEAD AND COLLARS

In my opinion, leaving the head and collars (the cut along the fish clavicle, right behind the gills) on
smaller fish and then proceeding to either butterfly or split them in half (see pages 92 and 84) are some
of the nicest ways to serve a fish, as it offers the diner a multitude of tastes, textures and also delivers a
sense of reverence towards the fish that’s being eaten. However, not everyone wants to be looking into
the eye of what they are eating, and the flesh that can be found within the head and collars can also be
put to great use elsewhere.

Quality Points view, the head is quite a forgiving component of the

Firstly, ensure the head you are working with is of fish as it can tolerate intensities of heat without drying
known origin. Like land-based animal offal, it is out as badly as the fillet, due in part to the amount of
connective tissues, collagen and fats that are present.
incredibly important that the product is extremely
Because of this added fat and collagen, the head and
fresh and has been well looked after up until this
collars, although perfect cooked simply with salt
point.
alone, can also be a great vehicle for sweet, sour and
The eyes are always a telltale sign of how fresh the fish umami-rich marinades that add a significant depth of
is. Sunken, foggy, dry or even sticky eyes on a ‘fresh’ flavour. Cooking over coals is an excellent choice for
fish should be avoided entirely. these cuts. As the pores of the fish heat, they open and
The flesh on and around the collars should carry little the fat begins to drip from the skin and bones onto
to no aroma. the hot coals. The smoke from the coals travels back
up towards the head and enters into the pores.
The flesh on the head and collars of a fish should be
vibrant, glassy and firm to the touch without signs of For a more processed approach to utilising the head
deterioration or discolouration. of a fish, remove the head from the frame of the fish
and set aside. Once the heads of the species have
been collected, simply steam these until the flesh
Extraction
that surrounds the cartilage and bones just begins to
Removing the head as a single unit can be simply come away with the push of your finger. While the
done with a sharp heavy kitchen knife or cleaver, heads are warm but have rested for half the amount
where the initial cut is made between the vertebrae of total cooking time, begin to pick the meat. Like
on the spine. Finding this gap in the bones allows picking crabmeat, the priority is to keep the meat
you to cut through with ease. as large as possible because inevitably there will be
scale, bone or cartilage missed and you will need to
The collars can be taken off separate to the head by
pick through again. Being too heavy-handed with
making a diagonal cut from the top of the shoulder
this task will result in mushy, soft and small pieces of
of the fillet down to the belly of the fish just behind
fish meat. The sky’s the limit now with this unctuous
the first fin (see step-by-step breakdown on page
head meat containing the cheeks and jowl of the
82). Once the collars are removed, further work can
fish. It is fantastic for the Fish Fingers on page 218,
be carried out to remove the smaller, more intricate
the Fishcakes on page 221, or even warmed through
bones to allow the diner complete enjoyment of
pasta, on toast or in a salad of crisp lettuce, raw
boneless flesh with only one large structural bone
onions, chives and Chardonnay dressing.
to hold onto as they eat.
The brain within the head of a fish is a very miniscule
Application organ that I’ve never seriously pursued applications
for on its own beyond once removing and tempura-
Some of the simplest ways to work with the head frying it (which, to be fair, was pretty delicious). The
and collars, as I mentioned, are to leave them intact brain content can be removed at the point of picking
but present the fish either butterflied or split in half, the meat off the head and is then a fine inclusion to
ready to be grilled over coals, pan-fried or steamed, a fish head terrine (see page 189), adding viscosity
depending on the species. From a culinary point of and richness.
 A N O T E O N H E A D M E AT

A number of recipes throughout this book require the Once the heads are cool enough to handle, start
use of cooked and picked head meat taken from the extracting the meat. This can be a tedious task at first as
head and collars of the fish. In these recipes we have you familiarise yourself with the structure of the head.
started with a whole 3 kg (6 lb 10 oz) fish and on day I like to begin with the collars and get them all out of
one cut the head and collars off, weighing about 725 g the way first. Gently peel away the skin then start to
(1 lb 9 oz). Place these on a perforated steamer tray or a pull away any bones you can feel, discarding them into
steamer basket, depending on the amount you need and one of the two bowls. Try to hold the collar gently and
equipment you have, and steam in a Rational Combi lightly feel for where the bones are. The remaining meat
oven preheated to 70°C (158°F). The time in the oven should now be boneless and skinless, so place this into
will depend on the species as well as the size of the the second bowl, which will become your meat bowl.
heads and collars: we start at 12–15 minutes for smaller To pick the heads, begin again by peeling away any
heads from 2–3 kg (4 lb 6 oz–6 lb 10 oz) fish and go up skin, particularly from the top of the forehead and the
to around 30–40 minutes for large heads from 10–15 jowls, and place into your discard bowl. As the meat is
kg (22–33 lb) fish. Cook in batches, as you want to be exposed, use your finger to gently pop pieces away from
picking the meat while still warm. the head and place into the meat bowl. Once the jowl
To check if the heads are cooked, test the cheek meat, and forehead have been picked, invert the head and
which sits just above where the spine begins – the meat begin extracting any meat from the inside. Continue
here should be opaque and flake away from the bone until you have picked all the meat. Discard the contents
easily. Once this is the case, remove the heads from the of the other bowl.
steamer and allow to cool for a moment. Assemble two As a final check, collect another bowl and, bit by bit,
large bowls to pick into. pick over the meat into the clean bowl, checking for any
small bones, scales, tainted meat or skin.
 LIVER

The first time I ever knowingly saw a fish liver was when I cut into a 2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) John Dory and
plucked out a liver that was 210 g (7½ oz). That was over 10 per cent of the fish body weight! An average
fillet of fish on a restaurant menu or a portion you buy to take home can weigh between 160 and 180 g
(5½ and 6½ oz), so when the liver and other organs surpass this, the cost of discarded offal can be
hugely damaging to fish businesses both financially and ethically.

Quality Points Application

When inspecting the liver, there should be no visible The easiest way to cook a fish liver is to simply pan-
signs of damage or discolouration. If the gall bladder fry it in a hot cast-iron skillet with a little ghee or
of the fish has been punctured and stained the liver neutral cooking oil and season liberally with salt and
with a fluorescent yellow-green liquid, this can be pepper. By leaving the fish liver pink inside you will
simply trimmed off as it only affects the surface of the taste the quality of the fats and experience its silky-
liver. smooth texture. This simply cooked liver can be a
perfect addition to salads and pasta or – my favourite
The presence of worms and parasites can be the
– enjoyed on toast with wilted parsley.
major cause of an inability to work with fish liver.
Unfortunately, if a liver is contaminated in this way Too high a heat when working with liver can often
then there is no use for it at all. result in scorching the organ and creating a bitter
aftertaste, while cooking a liver for too long will
Livers that have sat in the cavity of a fish too long
dull its flavour and render its texture a desiccated,
post-mortem can be subject to deterioration caused
powdery pulp.
by the acidity of the stomach and intestinal contents.
A liver like this can perhaps present well on the Liver terrines, pâtés and sausages are all incredibly
surface but when touched will almost deflate or turn delicious products that can be made with the right
pasty or creamy. livers (see examples on pages 186 and 193). If you
ever find yourself seeking inspiration for a fish liver
A perfect liver will be firm to the touch, bright and
application, look for a recipe using duck or chicken
uniformly coloured and have very little odour at all.
liver as they are comparable in size, texture and
Late winter and early spring in Australia is when we
richness.
begin to see the best livers appearing.

Extraction
A liver is most easily removed from the cavity of a fish
by gutting it conventionally in one piece with little mess
(see page 49). Once removed, set the fish aside and
position the organs on the cutting board as they were
in the fish. Just beneath the gills will be the small fish
heart, followed by the liver. Using sharp scissors or a
small knife, cut the two main arteries off the top of the
liver as well as the one underneath that connects it to
the stomach of the fish. Once removed, inspect the liver
and trim any significant arteries or veins that are visible.
 H E A RT, SPLEEN AND K IDNEYS

I have put these three organs into the one basket due to their richness and strength of taste. Each of
them possesses a very oxygenated flavour profile that reminds you of eating meat offal – something
to be harnessed rather than feared. These dark, blood-rich organs must be worked with astutely; their
flavour can be sweet and their texture firm, however poor handling or keeping them for too long can
result in a metallic taste, a sour flavour and a slimy texture.

Quality Points Application

Look for unpunctured, brightly coloured organs that While there are a multitude of ways this offal can be
carry little to no aroma and a thin covering of fat, and used, I tend to prefer two methods that unlock a variety
are slightly dry to the touch. of different end results.
Blood will be the first thing to taint in these organs – The first is salting, which allows you the luxury of
the first visible signs of this will usually be browning time and also the ability to strengthen the flavour
and discolouration. profile of these organs (the other good thing about
this method is that as you process more fish, these
Extraction organs can be accumulated with confidence that they
won’t spoil). To salt the organs, simply bury them in
The heart, spleen and kidneys can best be removed from
regular fine cooking salt for a minimum of 7 days
the cavity of a fish by gutting it conventionally in one
until hardened and cured. At this point you can dry
piece with little mess (see page 49). Once removed, set
them out completely in a low oven or dehydrator and
the fish aside and position the organs on the cutting
then store them in an airtight container. This dried
board as they were in the fish. Just beneath the gills will
product can then be blended into a powder and used
be the small fish heart. This can be carefully snipped
to make condiments, added to flours for baking, used
from the throat of the fish and set aside. Next is the
as a seasoning for fried items or for providing
spleen, which will either be found entangled in the
a surprisingly umami-rich addition to egg dishes.
fish fat that coats the surrounding organs or sitting in
behind the intestines. It is very dark in colour and may The other application is to cut these three organs from
only be as big as a thumbnail, depending on species. the fish and cook them that day on a skewer over
The kidneys are to be found where you see a dense mass coals. This is an indirect method of heat application
of congealed blood nearly fixed to the spine of the fish that will perfume the offal with smoke and cook
midway down the bone. They can be removed with fish them gently, preventing them from toughening up
pliers. and becoming dry and powdery, a risk you would
run if pan-frying them in oil. When cooking hearts
and spleens specifically, make sure to leave them
pink when cooking, use a good amount of salt and
remember when seasoning that sweetness and acidity
go exceedingly well with them.
 ROE OR MILT

From caviar to bottarga and taramasalata, the roe sacs – or fully ripe egg sacs of a female fish – are the
starting point for some of the most sought-after products in Western cookery. Call it good marketing
or just plain delicious, this organ seems to have done okay in terms of being utilised thoughtfully. The
problem here arises when the fish itself starts to be discarded in favour of its eggs.
Conversely, milt – or the sperm-filled reproductive gland of a male fish – can be seen as one of
the most challenging ingredients to cook and consume. While the Japanese see shirako or fish milt as
having extremely good anti-ageing properties and tuna milt is very popular in Sicilian pasta dishes,
it hasn’t quite reached the same level of enthusiastic uptake here in Australia. Yet.

Quality Points Application

When processing roe, look for a sac that is For fish upwards of 2 kg (4 lb 6 oz), one of my
uniformly and brightly coloured. In addition, the sac favourite preparations of fish roe is to use a knife
needs to be firm, unpunctured and without odour or to cut the membrane open and scrape out the eggs
excessive slime. within, then salt them to yield a result reminiscent
of caviar (see page 227 for details). Once this
For milt, quality points can be identified by its
product is ready it can be stored in this form in
uniform bone-white appearance, little to no odour
an airtight container for at least 1 week, while in a
and even texture.
sterilised and sealed tin it will last for up to 3 weeks.
Similarly to the liver, the roe and the milt can suffer I love adding this to raw fish dishes or even as an
the stain of a punctured gall bladder. Again, if this addition to an oyster.
can be trimmed away then there should be no issue
Alternatively, I like to cure and lightly smoke
unless the intention is to cure the roe whole.
fish roe (see page 228) to create a product that is
not technically a bottarga but still retains some
Extraction chewiness and is excellent cut into thin slices and
The roe or milt can best be removed from the cavity served with some good extra-virgin olive oil.
of a fish by gutting the fish conventionally in one For milt, I find that thinking of it in a similar vein to
piece with little mess (see page 49). Once removed, meat offal such as brains or sweetbreads overcomes
set the fish aside and position the organs on the any initial hesitancy of how to approach this organ,
cutting board as they were in the fish. The roe or and the culinary opportunities become more
milt will sit together as a pair in behind the intestine apparent. Curing, smoking and drying milt (see
and stomach. By snipping the connecting sinews, page 233) results in a delicious product that is good
the roe or milt should come away quite simply from sliced and pan-fried on toast or diced and added to
the remaining organs. Be careful not to puncture the smallgoods such as mortadella, sausages or terrines.
membrane and gently remove in one piece.
 STOMACH AND INTESTINE

Stomachs and intestines might just be the most challenging components of a fish for people to get
excited about eating, and I’ll gladly put my hand up and say it took me some time to think of a desirable
solution! When prepared correctly, the stomach is void of any real flavour at all, yet just like beef tendons
or pigs’ trotters, it can be used in dishes for its remarkable texture and ability to carry other flavours,
while the tender intestine can be used in a variety of different ways. The quality points of all fish offal are
incredibly important, but I can’t stress enough that these particular organs must be exceptionally fresh
and unspoiled in any way and are put to work inside of the first 24 hours.

Quality Points Application

The stomach and intestine must be extremely fresh, Given a fish only has one stomach and a single long
clean-smelling, undamaged and evenly coloured intestine, this application needs to be somewhat
with no blemishes. of an accumulated method. So each time a fish is
processed, remove these organs and clean them
Fish stomachs and intestines obviously carry the
according to the extraction method and then bury
same functions as in a land-based animal: they
them in fine table salt. Make sure the salt completely
hold the consumed food and waste of the fish. It is
covers and fills these organs as it will not only draw
important that the contents of the stomach are not in
moisture but remove any volatile aromas or potential
any way omitting foul odours or causing damage to
bitterness that they may have. Salt for at least a week
the organ itself; it would need to be discarded if so.
depending on size until completely cured. Be sure
to rotate new stomachs and intestines going into salt
Extraction with older ones coming out.
The stomach and intestine of a fish can best be Once cured, the salted organs can then be vacuum-
removed from the cavity of a fish by gutting the fish sealed and frozen until required. If using straight
conventionally in one piece with little mess (see page away, the stomachs and intestines will need to be
49). Once removed, set the fish aside and position the soaked in cold water for anywhere between 12 and
organs on the cutting board as they were in the fish. 24 hours, depending on the size of the offal. For offal
The stomach looks like a small mitten sitting at the that has sat in salt for weeks or even months, this
base of the gills, and the intestine can be fairly easily process of reducing the salinity by soaking in cold
identified. Using sharp scissors or a small knife, cut water will take longer.
the gills off the main body of organs, then snip all the
other organs away from the stomach. Set aside the To cook the stomachs, the simplest method is to
stomach and sort the intestines. This is best done by steam them until tender – this can be done in an
wiping away any mucus or excess fat from around the oven or on the stove. Once tender, they can be used
organ with kitchen paper. just like a beef tendon or pig’s trotter would. Add
Being careful not to tear the intestine, squeeze out them to a fish pie, a tomato-based ragu for pasta
the contents and discard. Do the same to the stomach dishes, or simply fry or pickle them to serve on toast.
by inverting the organ and scraping it clear with a The sky is the limit in terms of the opportunity, and
spoon. Once the contents are removed, proceed to the best advice is to see them as a vehicle to carry
wash the stomach and intestines under cold water and big flavours. Stomachs can also be sliced into
then place on a clean stainless steel tray. rounds, sautéed and braised on the stove from raw
until tender.
The above methods also work well for the intestines,
as does crumbing and frying or cooking and
assembling the intestines as if they were pasta and
building the sauce around them. You can also dice
them very finely and include them in vinaigrette.
Again, the creative opportunities are endless – what’s
critical here is retaining the intestine’s tender texture
and not serving it tough (or too soft if cooked too far).
 TA I L S

I’ve included tails with offal here as, in much the same way, they are too often tossed to one side for
more desirable parts of the fillet. The problem is, they’re very rarely used thoughtfully, with the tail cuts
in restaurants often left to sit idle until no amount of lemon juice can save them as no-one wants to be
serving up (or served) the end when everyone else gets handed the centre-cut brick out of the middle.
This is a terrible waste of what is a potentially magical part of the fish, and one that can provide us
with so much critical information. One of my best uses for the tail early on at Saint Peter was to cut it off
and cook it, then examine the texture to check for parasites that can render the flesh completely mushy
(kudoa thyrisites) or tough as a board (tough fish syndrome) and get an understanding of what that
fish would taste like. The cooked tail can also give an insight into how the fish was caught, killed and
transported to us and if the cold-chain handling was managed appropriately. 5 When discovering and
implementing my dry-ageing program before and after opening Saint Peter, it was also essential that we
cut, cooked, ate and made decisions based on the textures and tastes of a day 17 fish and note how this
differed to our day 4 experience, and cooking the tail in this way would enable us to do this.

Quality Points Application

The quality points for the tail of a fish are consistent As well as being a vital informational tool as described
with the quality points of the whole fish. You are above, boneless tail flesh that has been filleted
looking for a nice coating of slime on the scale, a and removed can be cooked and turned into great
well-formed structure of scales that is unmarked or fishcakes, fish fingers or croquettes, blended with egg
undamaged, no odour and glassy, firm flesh that is whites to produce a beautiful consommé or turned
not discoloured in any way. into a dumpling filling. Will the demand be there
though? And will a chef just wanting to serve a centre-
Extraction cut fillet of fish on the plate without any compromise
The tail can be simply cut off the fish at the height at be willing to introduce the ‘waste’ to the plate? Let’s
which you do not wish to serve and sell your primary hope that the fish shops of the future can do the heavy
fillet. In some cases, such as our Cold-smoked Tuna lifting and see to it that fishcakes, fish fingers, fish pies
Tail Ham on the Bone on page 182, we cut the tail and even fish and chips utilise this delicious section of
quite high as the sinews on a tuna run higher than the fish.
on most conventional round fish.

5. If a tail started dispelling water into the pan during cooking, for instance, we knew that the fish was more than likely killed and not ice-slurried correctly, meaning then that the flesh
was already ‘cooked’ from not just the heat but the retained lactic acid residing within the flesh.
 F AT

Fat is an incredible part of a fish to work with when well-harnessed. As there is often little to no visible
visceral fat within the cavity of a fish, this component is not going to be hugely familiar as an extracted item.
But it is seen in both wild and farmed fish, so for that reason I felt it important to include in this section.
Fat is not just limited to what resides within the cavity, however, and a high-quality, seasonal, well-fed
fish will also carry a nice healthy coating of fat just beneath the skin. Too often the skin is unnecessarily
taken off prior to cooking and with it goes the fat – a missed opportunity in my eyes as whether steamed,
poached or baked, the skin can easily be peeled back after cooking. During cooking this fat melts down
over the fish, moistening the flesh and imparting its own unique flavour profile.

Quality Points suppresses a lot of what could’ve been. The challenge,

however, in balancing the right amount of moisture
Fat can vary in its colouring, ranging from a tinted yel-
with the right amount of fat within a fish when dry-
low through to white, off-white, cream and even orange
within salmonoid species. Like many other organs set ageing is not pushing it to the point where the fish is
inside the cavity of the fish, the fat can also be compro- too dry and there is too much fat present, as this will
result in the fat going rancid and sour.
mised due mainly to the gall bladder being punctured
and its bile causing staining and imparting a very bitter Application
aftertaste, which makes careful extraction essential.
There are a multitude of applications for the physical-
The fat should be as odourless as the fillets. Its texture,
ly removed blocks of visceral fat within a fish, ranging
again subject to seasonality and species, will vary
from curing it into a lardo (see page 250), rendering
from a thin webbing that surrounds the fish organs
it into a liquid fat for cooking (see page 246), using it
and almost looks like caul fat from a pig through to
within alcohol-based preparations (see page 258) or
small soft greasy pieces hidden in and around the
making soaps and candles (see pages 261–2). The sky
liver and intestines, and the large firm white blocks
really is the limit!
of fat extracted from aquaculture species of fish.
Similarly, with regards to the application of fat that
Extraction resides within the rest of the fish, all methods of
cookery are on the table. Grilling a fish over coals,
To remove the fat of the fish, once the cavity has been where the fat slowly drips down causing a wisp of
opened and all the organs and gills have been set aside smoke to hit the skin and enter into the pores of
onto a board, take a small knife and cut the fat away the flesh, results in a wonderfully smoky outcome.
from the intestine and stomach, being careful not to Poaching, steaming or pot-roasting a piece of fish
puncture the gall bladder or any other organs. In other with the skin on and bone in will give a beautiful
cases where the fat is finer and less prominent, it can texture from the gelatinous quality of the skin and
be simply pulled away with your hands. bones, while the fat trapped under the skin will also
Extraction can be seen as a physical action of be there waiting for you to peel back and enjoy. 6
removing something, but in the case of fats it can also
be thought of as unlocking the potential flavours within The correct selection of species and method is also an
the fish. A critical part of the dry-ageing process is a important factor when trying to showcase the fat of
controlled reduction in moisture with an associated a fish. Selecting a rich, fatty fish and battering it is not
promotion of the fats that naturally reside within the a good marriage, as there is no harmony or balance
flesh of the fish. This fat carries much of the unique for the consumer. A fish that carries little fat and is
identity of the fish and makes it simpler for the cook naturally very lean also does not perform well when
to decide on flavours to pair with it, rather than the baked in an oven, as this eliminates the opportunity
stereotypical wedge of lemon that neutralises or of experiencing the true taste and texture of the fish.

6. Another wonderful method of cookery to coax the natural fat from within a fish to the surface is to very carefully remove the skin from a fish, being sure to leave behind the fine layer
of fat underneath. Set the skin aside for another application. Season the flesh of the fish with a little flaked or coarse sea salt, then take a hot piece of charcoal with a pair of tongs and
carefully push the coal against the fish, only keeping it there for a second. Move the coal along the rest of the flesh, only ever holding it down for a second. This burst of extreme heat
does two things: firstly, it gives the fish an incredible flavour that penetrates the whole fillet, and secondly, the severity of the heat from the coal creates a very thin layer of damage on
the flesh, resulting in an uncompromised texture (as opposed to the preparation of tataki in a frying pan, using a blowtorch or grilling skinless fish directly on a grill, where the flesh
toughens and dries too much).
 BONES, CARTILAGE AND FINS

The bones, cartilage and fins of a fish are similar in all species. Some people may not have any issues
with the wastage of these particular parts as, once gutted and scaled, the fish may be sold whole or as a
bone-in cutlet. Irrespective of this, I felt it important to include these parts of a fish here as they really
aren’t considered enough outside the realm of making stock.

Extraction whole on the spine bone but cut out the rib bones and
pull out the pin bones. Yes, this requires more time
The extraction of these items is subject somewhat to
how you prepare the rest of the fish. Scissors, knives and effort, but it may be just the extra step needed to
and fish pliers are all important tools when filleting give someone a memorable eating experience.
With regards to bone marrow, as long as the fish is
or processing whole fish. Knowing the anatomical
incredibly fresh and you are aware of where it is from
composition of where bones sit allows you to be a little
and that it has been dry-handled, this delicious jellied
more intentional about what gets cut first and what
will be left at the end. morsel is worth the effort of cooking. I have found the
Road-mapping the cutting before the knife enters marrow of tuna, swordfish and grouper all outstanding
when roasted whole or even poached alongside a
the fish will bring good solutions for the final product
portion of the fish that it has come from. There are a
and also help with the length of time you are able to
number of ways to enjoy it, including smooshed into
store a fish for as once the fish comes off the bone, the
clock starts ticking. The bone plays a critical role in toast with herbs and pickles or simply seasoned with
shielding the flesh from exposure to oxygen and light, salt and pepper and served with tender potatoes.
If there isn’t an immediate use for the fins of the fish
which can alter the taste and texture of a fish rapidly
then, once they are scissored off, they are easily frozen
and dramatically.
until enough are accumulated. The addition of these
Application fins to a fish stock or soup is brilliant as they carry so
much gelatine. The reason gelatine is important (and
In terms of how to use these items from a fish, the not just in fish cookery but in all types of cuisine) is
easiest way is to cook a fish on the bone so that you that it acts as a conduit for flavour. Gelatine, like fat,
allow the flesh of the fish to benefit from the extra will also increase the length of taste that something
flavour and gelatine that resides within the bone. Also, has. Natural gelatines found within the trimmings
by cooking on the bone, the fish holds its shape and of a fish will also add texture and viscosity to dishes
moisture far better, and there is a little bit more wiggle that may otherwise have lacked richness. Sauces or
room when it comes to timing the cook due to the dressings can be made from the bones to elevate the
protection the bone provides. taste of the fish that they were from or be used as a
Many would say they prefer to eat a fillet than a stand-alone product that dresses vegetables or leaves.
whole or bone-in piece of fish. One reason for this is Outside of gastronomy, the bones of a fish also carry
a fear of the smaller rib and pin bones of a fish that the potential to be made into bone china or a bone
may have either caused us or someone we have seen glaze for ceramic plateware (see page 265).
to choke. The way to combat this is to leave the fish
 M AW

The maw, swim bladder, bubble or float of a fish is found behind the organs in the fish closest to the
spine. There are a number of techniques you can apply to utilise the maw, however note that as there is
only one per fish, it is important to preserve the maw until you have enough to work with.

Extraction Application
The maw is best removed from the cavity of a fish by To preserve the maw, start by cutting it open as if you
gutting the fish conventionally in one piece with little were cleaning a hood of calamari, then use the same
mess (see page 49). Once the organs are removed, look knife to scrape away any residue or imperfections
for a large blown-up balloon shape, though it may so that it is one even texture. On a steamer tray or
have popped and be hidden behind the offal. Cut the steaming basket, steam the maw until soft. This can
maw away with a sharp pair of scissors. It is important take anywhere between 10 and 35 minutes, depending
that the maw is unblemished and free of any odour. on the fish. Once soft, remove from the steamer and
transfer on a tray to an oven set to as low as it can go,
or use a dehydrator to ensure that the maw dries out
completely, approximately 12 hours.
Once thoroughly dried, maws are ready to be used
in a multitude of applications. They can be stored dry
in a clean container with a fitted lid or alternatively
cryovacked to keep thoroughly dry. The maw can
be rehydrated in water, stock or fragrant liquid for
use within soups, stocks and sauce or, alternatively,
could be deep-fried from dehydrated until crunchy
and tripled in size. Ensure you fry in hot oil set to
200°C (390°F) as this intense heat will puff the maw
dramatically and make a great textural inclusion
to raw fish dishes or ground to season grilled or
roasted vegetables.
THE CUTS
 BASIC FILLETING

Be sure to start with a gutted fish with trimmed fins. For the first cut, position the fish with the belly
facing you and the head to the left (or the right if you are left-handed).
1. Pull the pectoral fins outwards and make 4. Lift the tail section to expose the ribs.
a cut behind to separate them from the Snip through the ribs with kitchen
fillet, then cut around behind the head scissors up to the first cut. You can now
until you hit bone. By doing this you are remove the first fillet.
effectively separating the fish collars from
the fillet.

2. Turn the fish so the belly is facing away 5. Flip the fish so the belly faces towards
from you (head on the right, tail on the you and the head points left. Repeat the
left), then, starting from the cut at the first cut, then cut along the back through
top of the head, cut along the backbone the rib bones and, guiding the knife by
from the head to the tail, cutting smoothly pressing it against the ribs, cut towards the
along the length of the fillet. Angling your pin bones, then turn the knife the other
knife towards the bones, keep running it way and cut up and against the ribs, using
along where the flesh meets the bones to the bones as a guide and gently peeling
open out the fillet until you feel it reach away and slicing as you go.
the raised spine in the middle. Using your
knife, stay as close to the spine as possible
and go over the bone.

3. Place the knife flat against the backbone 6. Cut the second fillet away from the
and push the point through to the other frame using scissors and wipe clean
side of the fillet. With the knife protruding with paper towel.
out the other side and pressing against the
spine, cut all the way to the tail to separate
the tail section.
 FILLETING (HEAD AND TA I L ON)

Be sure to start with a gutted fish with trimmed fins, with the belly facing you and the head to the left
(or to the right if you are left-handed).
1. Starting from the very top of the head, 4. Turn the fish so the head is immediately
cut smoothly along the backbone from in front of you and tail furthest away.
the head to the tail. Angling your knife Have the fish cavity side up and turn
towards the bone, run it along where the cut fillet flesh side up to the left.
the flesh meets the bone to open out the Using a sharp cleaver, cut down the left
fillet until you feel your knife reach the side of the spine and split the head in
raised spine in the middle, then place the half. By doing this the fillet will now be
knife flat against the backbone and push completely free. Set aside the first head
the point through to the other side of and tail intact half fillet.
the fillet. (It is critical here that the knife
stays as close to the bone as possible to
prevent any flesh from being left behind
around this tail section.) With the knife
protruding out the other side and pressing
against the spine, cut all the way to the tail
being sure to slowly split the tail in half,
allowing a tail presentation for both fillets.

5. Flip the fish so the belly faces away from

2. Lift the tail section to expose the open you and the head points left. Follow
the same process as for the initial fillet,
cavity where the offal once was and
where the ribs are connected to the spine. starting this time by putting the knife
At this point, the ribs and the head are in at quite an acute angle at the tail end,
gradually lowering the angle and guiding
the only two sections that are keeping
the fillet in place. the blade towards the head along the
backbone, maintaining close proximity
to the spine. Once you have reached the
centre of the fillet, cut the tail section of
the fillet away from the bone, ensure you
take the remaining half tail along with it
for presentation purposes.

3. Snip through the ribs with kitchen scissors 6. Use scissors once more to cut the ribs off
all the way up to the head. The fillet the spine and, once at the head of the fish,
should now be separate from the spine. use scissors to cut away the dense bone
from behind the last half of the head. (If
the scissors can’t get through this bone,
use the cleaver to cut away.) Using a small
sharp knife, cut away the pin bones from
the ribs, then sweep the blade under the
ribs. Repeat on the other fillet, then use
pliers to remove the pin bones, being
careful to simply wipe the pliers on a piece
of kitchen paper next to you instead of
dipping them into water each time (as
even wet pliers here will be detrimental
to the longevity of the fillet).
 COLLAR AND BELLY ‘SUPREME’

This cut harnesses the darker, fattier meat that lies within the collar of the fish alongside the
intramuscular fat-rich belly, and it is absolutely delicious. The idea to remove these two cuts together
and serve them as one piece came from a chicken supreme, where the wing tip is left in place on the
breast of a chicken. To achieve this cut, start with a traditionally gutted fish. If you are right-handed,
position the fish with the head on your left and tail to the right.
1. To achieve this cut, start with a traditionally gutted fish. to you. Turn the fish over so that the cavity is still away
If you are right-handed, position the fish with the head from you but now the tail is on your left and head on 3. The position of this seam sits just below the end of the which can be easily snipped away using scissors. The final
on your left and tail to the right, then, using a short sharp the right. Repeat the exact same cut again to ensure rib bones, so it will be completely boneless except for the cut should now have the collar intact in one piece with the
knife, cut from the anal vent of the fish in a straight line that the two cuts you have made marry up in a straight collar at the end. This cut will now look like a chicken full length of the belly attached.
back towards you until it reaches the top of the fins closest line at the top of the fish. breast shape. It will still be attached at the top of the collar,

2. Insert a short sharp knife into the flesh immediately sure to stop a quarter of the way down so you don’t cut
behind the head of the fish so your knife touches the hard the collar off the belly. Once you have reached the seam in
collar bone on the left side of the blade. Draw the blade the muscle that separates the mid loin of the fish from the
down from the very top point of the fillet behind the head belly, cut to follow this seam down to the anal vent.
at an angle that is consistent with the collar bone, being
 BUTTERFL Y (HEAD ON)

This method can also be done with the head off, but when there is so much good meat on the head,
why would you want to remove it?
1. Assuming you’re right-handed (otherwise reverse these where the flesh meets the bone to open out the fillet until
directions), place a whole scaled fish on a chopping board you feel your knife has reached the raised spine in the
with its head to your left and tail to your right, with the middle. Place the knife flat against the backbone and
belly facing you. Using a short sharp knife, draw the push the blade across so that it stops just short of exiting
tip down the backbone of the fish from the head end the fillet. (The knife must stay as close to the bone as
to the tail, cutting along one side of the bone. Angling possible to prevent any flesh being left behind around this
your knife towards the bone, continue to run it along tail section.)

3. Once the fillet is free from the connecting ribs but still
held in place by the tail, head and belly, snip the visible
gills from just beneath the head. Using the heel of a
chef ’s knife, butterfly the head through the back so that
it flattens the head rather than cuts it in half.

2. Open the tail section you have just cut into to expose
the beginning of the cavity containing the offal and
where the ribs are connected to the spine. Snip through
the ribs with kitchen scissors all the way up to the head.

4. Pulling from the freed gills towards the tail end of the ribs off the spine. Continue using scissors to snip out
fish, lift out the offal in one piece. Draw your knife down the backbone by cutting it just behind the head and just
the backbone again for the second fillet, however this in front of the tail to give a kite-shaped fish with the tail
time the knife’s first entry point is at the tail end and is intact and a butterflied head. Use fish tweezers to remove
drawn up towards the head end of the fish. Once the pin bones and rib bones. (Alternatively, depending on
fillet is free from the spine but the skin of the fish is still species, it may be easier to remove the rib bones with a
fully intact, proceed once more with scissors to cut the small sharp knife.)
 REVERSE BUTTERFL Y (HEAD ON)

Make sure the fish is scaled and gutted conventionally before attempting this method. Position the
fish with the head nearest to you and the tail furthest away.
1. Using sharp kitchen scissors, begin cutting down the 3. Repeat on the opposite side. When these two cuts meet
left-hand side of the fish spine to disconnect the ribs up at the tail, use kitchen scissors to snip the tail, then
from the spine, but stop at the fish’s anal vent. Repeat this just behind the head where it meets with the spine.
step down the right-hand side of the spine. (This will give
you a clear track to use your knife in the next step.)

2. Position the fish now with the head on your left and the
tail on your right. Using a small sharp knife, draw the
blade down the scissored opening that you have made
next to the spine.

4. Pull the spine carefully off the skin of the fish, making
sure to support the surrounding flesh so it doesn’t rip or
do damage. Use fish tweezers to remove pin bones and
rib bones. (Alternatively, depending on species, it may be
easier to remove the rib bones with a small sharp knife.)
Using a heavy knife or cleaver, tap on the head to crack
down through it and split the skull, spreading it out flat.
 SHORT RIB OF TUNA

The notion of a short rib of tuna might seem a little far-fetched, but the title here
comes from the aesthetic appearance of this cut rather than where it has been taken from.
This particular cut is derived from the collar of the tuna, located just behind the head
of the fish and sitting in line with the gills. As this is a good way to utilise a head of tuna,
you can start here with the head only, collars intact.
1. Using sharp scissors, cut the top of the
collar off the nape of the fish. Cut the 3. Once you have a prism of consolidated
pectoral fin and surrounding bone and flesh attached to the clavicle of the tuna,
flesh away from the collar, making sure turn this cut over and proceed to remove
to keep the cut straight and clean. Repeat the skin from the muscle, being sure to
with the remaining side. retain as much flesh as possible.

4. Using your sharp knife, seek out the

small and medium bones that sit in
the centre of the collar and are simple
to find with the blade of the knife. Just
like meat butchery, the instruction
2. Position the collar on a cutting board is always to stay close to the bone, as
skin side up with the tuna’s clavicle to this way, minimal meat will be cut
your left. This will now create the longest away unnecessarily while the non-
edge of the ‘short rib’. At the base of structural bones that inevitably hinder
this, use a knife, scissors or cleaver to the enjoyment of this cut once cooked
cut about 2 cm (1 in) above the pectoral are removed. Finish the cut by scraping
fin, removing the flesh to showcase away any remaining meat and using
the bone clearly and create what looks paper towel to polish the end of the ‘rib’
like a handle of the ‘short rib’. Once the bone. This cut is now ready to be grilled
flesh is removed, set aside for another over hot coals or under a grill, or even
application. roasted and glazed in the oven.
 FRENCHED CUTLETS

(RIB BONE IN, SPINE OUT)

This is a perfect cut for crumbing as, apart from the single rib bone, the frenched cutlets
are completely boneless. To attempt this cut, be sure to start with a fish that has been gutted,
scaled and is no less than 2 kg (4 lb 6 oz), as anything smaller will not have bones that are
structurally strong enough.
1. Position the fish on the cutting board with the head to them. Work your knife up and around to remove the
your left and tail to the right. Using a short sharp knife, collar and belly, then turn the fish over so that the cavity
cut from the anal vent of the fish in a straight line towards is still away from you but now the tail is on your left and 3. Using a sharp pair of scissors, cut the ribs away from the sides of the spine, cut down to seperate the fillets and
the collar, being careful not to cut through the rib bones head on the right. Repeat the same cut again to ensure central spine, being careful not to penetrate the full length remove the central spine. With a short sharp knife, cut the
that sit immediately below. Like a rack of lamb, the idea that the two cuts you have made marry up in a straight of the scissors into the flesh, as this will compromise intercostals from between the ribs. This meat can be set
here is to remove the belly from half of the ribs to expose line at the top of the fish. the final aesthetic. Once the ribs have been cut off both aside for another recipe.

2. Using a cleaver or large chef ’s knife, slice through the finishing on the tail side of the pelvic fin. Repeat this on
soft vertebrae and then find the spinal vertebrae to cut the other side ensuring the two cuts marry up at the top,
in between, allowing you to then cut off the tail end of allowing you to cut the head off the fish. Set the head 4. With a chef ’s knife now, cut between each frenched rib bring a pot of water to the boil and carefully dip the bones
the fish, which can be set aside for another purpose. and collars aside for a separate application. What’s bone. This will create individualised cutlets and allow pin into the water. Once the bones have been briefly dipped
Draw the blade down in a diagonal line from the nape remaining now is both fillets on the bone with the rib bones to be removed from the flesh. Repeat on the other into the hot water, use a tissue or towel to rub away the
behind the head of the fish, past the pectoral fin and bones still in place. side. To clean the flesh fully off these exposed rib bones, cooked flesh from the bone.
 YELLOWFIN TUNA RIB EYE

This cut is a result of utilising the first loin and two boneless bellies for steaks or other preparations
and then leaving the last loin on the spine and frame that it is attached to.
1. To start working with this last remaining loin of the tuna 3. Once the bones are free of meat, they can be polished
that is on the bone, use a sharp knife to cut away the back to white with the assistance of some boiling hot
cartilage and spines from the top of the fish. water and paper towel.

4. The next cut is to remove the significant presence of the to take too much. This long cut of tuna is ready now to
lateral swimming muscle off the side of the fish. (You either be grilled or roasted in this large format or split
2. Once these are removed, proceed with a short sharp knife don’t want to take it all off as this carries a lot of the on the vertebrae to separate the bones into single-bone
and treat the tuna as if it was a lamb rack, cutting the savoury qualities of the fish, however leaving too much steaks. It is then at your discretion to cook with the skin
intercostals out from in between the spinal bones. Set this in place can be a little overwhelming.) Start with a long on and remove after cooking or take it off prior, which
meat aside for another application, cutting off the top of sharp straight-edge knife and proceed to sculpt away the can be simply done with a sharp long knife, working as
the bones with scissors for a neat finish. dark muscle from the side of the tuna, being sure not closely to the skin as possible.
 BUTTERFLIED BELLY

This is a cut that I really enjoy cooking and one that I feel would be enjoyed by others if it became
a common method of preparation. The cut must be made with a scaled but ungutted fish as the belly
needs to be kept intact to execute it properly.

This large, boneless, triangular-shaped piece of fish is easy to grill over whichever medium you
desire – I personally like to sit it on a wire rack and leave it to dry slightly overnight in a fan-forced
refrigerator, as this only makes the skin crunchier when cooked over coals on a hot grill. If proceeding
in this way, use a weight on top while cooking to create an even surface and start to cook the top of
the fish to avoid the need to then flip the flesh onto the direct heat.
 3. Scissor down the initial cut to separate the ribs from the
1. Select a short sharp knife and, starting just behind the down to finish just behind the anal fin of the fish. Repeat spine. Using your knife, remove the fillet from the bone,
pectoral fin and in line with the lateral line of the fish, this same cut on the other side of the fish to ensure both leaving the cartilage intact at the tail end. Repeat on the
make a cut that follows that line but begins to sweep back cuts meet up at the base of the fish. opposite side.

4. Cut the belly off the fish to leave you with the whole to remove pin bones and rib bones. (Alternatively,
belly in one triangular-shaped piece, setting aside the depending on species, it may be easier to remove the
2. Using your knife, cut the collar off where it meets the remainder of the fish for another application, such rib bones with a small sharp knife.)
nape of the fish. Do this on both sides. as Saddle chops (see pages 120–3). Use fish tweezers
 PORTIONING A FISH FILLET

F O R B AT T E R E D FISH

Over the years of serving battered fish, we have It is completely at your discretion as to how thick
encountered just about every known scenario of or thin you slice your portions as fish will vary (as will
undercooked, overcooked, under-fried and raw batter batter recipes), however, bear in mind that thickness
or over-fried and burnt batter. Many of the issues stem is critical in retaining a juicy interior while the batter
from portioning and thickness, which are both critical has time to caramelise and develop that wonderful
to a memorable piece of fried fish – when portioning crunch. As a rough guide – and once you’ve determined
fish for battered fish, it’s super important that the whether the skin should be on or off – we tend to use
surface area is even and the size very similar from piece the following method, selecting a long sharp knife to
to piece. cut the portions as follows:
What’s also critical in terms of preparing a fish for
battering is selection of fish species. To me the perfect 1. Place the fillet on a cutting board with the skin side
fish for battering is one that has a little bit of density and down and the shoulder of the fish to your left and tail to
thickness to it as this will assist in moisture retention the right.
and create a crunchy exterior and moist interior. It 2. At a 45-degree angle, make a slice approximately 4 cm
is also important to work with a fish that has a good (1½ in) from the shoulder of the fish through the flesh
amount of visible intramuscular fat – selecting a fish side down to the skin. Maintaining this angle and
that is too lean or known to dry out when cooked thickness, continue to slice portions through the centre
past medium-rare will not perform any better in of the fillet.
batter than in a frying pan or on a grill. It helps to see
3. Once you reach the point of the fillet where it starts
battering as not so much deep-frying but more an
to taper away and become thin, increase the length
insulative steamed method of cookery that relies heavily between cuts to approximately 8 cm (3¼ in), creating
on residual heat to continue cooking the fish after a wider surface area but obviously a thinner cut due to
coming out of the fryer. And don’t let nostalgia be the the shallower depth. Portion these thinner cuts together
determining factor when selecting a fish for battering – to ensure cooking times are consistent.
doing so can restrict you from exploring a more diverse
array of species and opportunities that might be better
than what you ate growing up.
I prefer to leave the skin on when deep-frying as this
will give the consumer a very clear understanding of the
identity of the fish that you are frying from the point of
view of flavour, as well as retaining more moisture and
a good amount of gelatine. However, this decision needs
to be informed by whether the fish you are cutting has
skin that will be tender and soft once fried – there are
a number of fish species we use where the skin must be
removed as it just doesn’t break down in the amount of
time it takes for the fillet to cook.
 FISH PORTIONS FOR GRILLED FISH

In fish cookery, the cooking method, choice of species a generous surface area of skin. If the skin has been
and decision of how to cut it to complement the conditioned well through dry-handling and correct
method are all of equal importance for me – these three storage, you will have the opportunity to make all that
variables can fundamentally determine whether or not skin incredibly crispy and smoky. As the skin crisps over
you will have a thoroughly enjoyable eating experience. the fire, the fat that resides beneath the skin escapes the
Grilling fish seems simple enough, however the pores and drips down onto the coals, creating a puff of
majority of the time, due to the skin being wet, or the smoke that then enters the crackled skin resulting in
grill being too hot or not hot enough, we wind up in a wonderful flavour and texture.
a bit of a mess. Having grilled fish over coals for the past If you want to grill a thick fillet on the barbecue
six years at Saint Peter and then at Fish Butchery and then do so by cooking a whole fillet or at the very least
Charcoal Fish, I find myself grilling more and more as a portion that exceeds one single portion. This will be
it really is one of the most delicious and simplest ways far more enjoyable to cook than trying to juggle several
to cook. individual portions that will require more maintenance
When grilling, I make sure I am selecting fish and care than one single large piece. The best way to
that isn’t too thick. Working with a thick fillet of achieve a wonderfully crisp skin and a beautiful interior
fish becomes incredibly difficult, even with the texture for a large piece of fish is to ‘reverse cook’ it in
assistance of a fish weight, as the skin takes on colour the oven. Baking the fish prior to grilling will give a
disproportionately quicker to the time that it takes to beautifully even finish and allows you to carve it with
cook the flesh. Furthermore, flipping the unprotected ease after grilling.
flesh side directly onto a hot grill will result in a To reverse cook for grilling, place the fillet on
compromised texture and aesthetic. a wire rack in a preheated oven set to approximately
There is a long list of Australian species that I love 65°C (150°F) with a probe thermometer in the thickest
to grill over coals, including rock flathead, garfish, part of the fish. When the thermometer reaches
flounder, King George whiting, mackerel, herring, approximately 40°C (105°F), again depending on the
bonito and sardines. The common thread between all of species, remove it from the oven and leave it to rest for
these species is that they are relatively small fish and the 5 minutes, then brush the skin with a neutral oil such
majority can either be cooked on the bone or butterflied. as grapeseed and season liberally with salt flakes. Place
The beauty of cooking the fish whole on the bone is that this already cooked fillet of fish skin side down onto
none of the delicate flesh is exposed to the direct heat a wire rack over hot coals and place a weight on top.
from the grill, meaning it has a better texture that isn’t Move the weight across the top of the fillet to ensure an
likely to resemble a dried-out piece of skinless chicken even amount of heat reaches all of the skin. Manage the
breast. Also, cooking on the bone immediately gives a heat by moving the rack on and off or placing the rack
lot of wiggle room in terms of cooking time along with nearest or furthest away from the intense heat. Remove
imparting plenty of flavour from the bone and retaining from the heat completely, flip the fish over to the flesh
more of its moisture. side while still on the rack and allow it to rest skin side
Grilling a butterflied fish has to be one of my absolute up for 4–5 minutes, then transfer to a cutting board and
favourite methods of cooking. Butterflying creates carve the fish from the flesh side through to the skin.
 SADDLE CHOPS

(BONE IN, RIBS AND PINS OUT)

This cut is what I see as the ‘best end’ or saddle of fish. It can be left as one long piece or further
cuts can be made from the flesh side of the fish to create chops from between the vertebrae.
These individualised darnes or chops can be roasted, grilled or poached for one. Alternatively,
roast this whole section of saddle or gently sauté and finish over hot coals to crisp up the skin.
1. Start with an ungutted and scaled fish 4. Using a cleaver or large chef ’s knife, cut
here. Position the fish on the cutting board through the soft vertebrae to cut off the
with the head to your left and tail to the tail end of the fish. This can be set aside
right. Have the shoulder or dorsal side of for another purpose. Draw the blade down
the fish closest to you and the open cavity in a diagonal line from the nape behind
away. With your left hand, hold the belly the head of the fish, past the pectoral fin
of the fish to make it taut. Using a short and then finishing on the tail side of the
sharp knife, cut from the anal vent of the pelvic fin. Repeat this cut on the other side
fish in a straight line back towards you till ensuring the two cuts marry up at the top,
it reaches the top of the fins closest. Turn allowing you to simply cut the head and
the fish over so that the cavity is still away collars off the fish. Set these aside along
from you but now the tail is on your left with the tail for separate applications.
and the head on the right. Make the exact You will now be left with both fillets on
same cut again, ensuring that the two cuts the bone, with the belly intact and the rib
have married up in a straight line at the bones still in place.
top of the fish.

2. Using your knife, cut the collar off where 5. Holding the saddle in your hand with the
it meets the nape of the fish. Do this on head end closest to your body, use a sharp
both sides. pair of scissors to cut the ribs away from
the central spine. Place the fish back down
onto the cutting board and sweep out the
rib bones with a short sharp knife. The cut
can be left as one long piece or further
cuts can be made from the flesh side of
the fish to create chops from between
the vertebrae.

3. Scissor down the initial cut to separate

the ribs from the spine. Using your knife,
remove the fillet from the bone, leaving
the cartilage intact at the tail end. Repeat
on the opposite side. Cut the belly off the
fish whole in one triangular-shaped piece
and carefully remove the offal for other
applications (see pages 57–77).
 STUFFED BONELESS SADDLE

This is about as complicated as you can get for a fish cutting and assembly technique.
But then, this book is called Fish Butchery ... Think of it as the porchetta of the sea.
1. Position a scaled and gutted fish on 4. Pull the spine carefully off the skin of
a cutting board with the head nearest to the fish, making sure to support the
you and the tail furthest away. Using a surrounding flesh so it doesn’t rip. Use
sharp heavy kitchen knife or cleaver, make fish tweezers to remove the pin bones
an initial cut between the vertebrae on the and rib bones. (Alternatively, depending
spine and remove the head cleanly as a on the species, it may be easier to remove
single unit. Remove the collars by making the rib bones with a small sharp knife by
a further diagonal cut from the top of the sweeping them out.)
shoulder of the fillet down to the belly of
the fish just behind the first fin.

2. Using sharp kitchen scissors, begin cutting 5. Cut the top loins out of both sides of the
down the left-hand side of the fish spine fillet, being careful not to cut a hole in the
to disconnect the ribs from the spine, skin. Set the top loin pieces aside as these
but stop at the anal vent. Repeat this step will be put back in when it comes time to
down the right-hand side of the spine. assemble the roll.
This now gives you a clear track to use
your knife in the next step.

3. Position the fish with the tail on the right. 6. Next, place the blade of a short sharp knife
Using a small sharp knife, draw the blade into the thickest part of the fish, which is
down the scissored opening that you have the mid loin that sits next to the vacant
made next to the spine. Repeat on the space you have created by removing the
opposite side. When these two cuts meet top loins. The entry of the blade should
up at the tail, use kitchen scissors to snip be on the pin bone side of the mid loin,
the tail. not next to where the top loins have just
come out. The aim is to make an even
cut through this thick part of the fillet to
create what looks like a book opening.
The piece that butterflies open will fill the
vacant space where the top loin once sat,
so now you will have one flat, even layer of
fish. The challenge in making this open-
book cut is to not let the knife exit on the
other side – you want the mid loin to still
be connected so that it fits in the space
snugly and doesn’t want to slip out.
7. Similar to how the top loins were carefully 10. Place the remaining belly over the top
taken off the skin without doing any of the sausage mix to cover the sausage
damage, cut the bellies off the skin on meat completely.
both sides of the fish. Set the skinless
whole bellies aside with the top loins in
readiness to roll. What you should now be
looking at is a rectangle of unpunctured
skin where the bellies once sat, with the
book-opened mid loins now spread across
the space that was created by removing
the top loins and a thin line of cartilage
down the centre holding the two fillets
together.

8. To create a nice finish, place a square of 11. Cover the belly and sides of the
nori seaweed over this central square of centrepiece with nori sheets and
flesh and push down so it adheres evenly. press in at the edges to sit tightly.
Wrap the two top loins of the fish together
in another square of nori seaweed. Set
these pieces aside in the refrigerator for
a moment to come together.

9. On the central square of flesh, place one 12. Now pick up the skin from the left side
of the two bellies down from head to of the fish and pull the mid loin over to
tail on the board. On top of this, place sit atop the centrepiece and repeat on
a sausage filling of fish trimmings (see the other side. Turn the whole cut over
chorizo on page 154) across the belly in so that the seam is on the cutting board.
one even layer approximately 1 cm (½ in) Using kitchen twine, make a basic knot
thick. Place the wrapped top loins along around the end closest to you, then loop
the centre of the sausage filling, running the twine around your hand and fit it over
in the same direction as the belly. Cover the opposite end of the fish away from
the top of the rolled loins with a further you. Move this loop down to a 2 cm
1 cm (½ in) thickness of sausage mix. (¾ in) gap from where the first knot was
made, then proceed to loop twine all
the way to the end. Tie off and chill for
a further hour at least before roasting.
 FISH CROWN STUFFED UNDER SKIN

This cut is inspired by a crown-roasted chicken. The butter adds a huge amount of flavour directly to
the flesh while also keeping it moist. Further flavours can be added inside the cavity of the fish while it
cooks. This is one of the more unconventional cuts in this book, but it’s one that I couldn’t leave out as
the finished result is pretty special, especially if it’s truffle season!
1. Before beginning, wash and sanitise a standard stainless matured for a minimum of 3 days to ensure the skin is 3. Prepare a compound butter, a softened salted butter refrigerator, open the incision slightly at the tail and
steel knife-sharpening steel. Start with a 4–5 kg nice and dry. Cut the tail off at the third vertebrae from with grated fresh black truffle or any other flavoured insert the piping bag of butter. Squeeze the butter into
(8 lb 13 oz) fish at minimum that has been traditionally the caudal fin. butter of your choice. Whip the softened butter and the incision and, with your other hand, work this butter
gutted and scaled with the fins trimmed – and hung and place in a piping (icing) bag. Remove the fish from the all the way up to the collar and around the belly.

2. Using a very sharp short knife, make a small incision

between the skin and the flesh approximately 2 cm
(¾ in) deep, working just beneath the skin, no deeper.
Insert the sanitised steel into this incision and gently
push it upwards toward the skin to avoid it puncturing
the flesh. The aim is to separate the skin from the flesh all
the way across the surface up to the top of the fish behind
the collars. Pay close attention to where the belly is
particularly thin. If the steel punctures or damages the 4. Once filled all the way around, return the fish to the reaching an internal temperature of approximately
flesh or your steel comes out through the skin, this will refrigerator, this time on a wire rack sitting on its collars 45°C (113°F). (This stuffed fish benefits from a higher
flaw your finished product. Once the skin is completely and tapping open the head, as shown. To cook, preheat temperature due to the added moisture of the butter,
separate all the way around the fish, place in the the oven to 240°C (465°F) and roast the fish for a time which you don’t want to stew within the fish.)
refrigerator. proportionate to the skin becoming crisp and the flesh
 DOUBLE SADDLE OR BARNSLEY

(RIBS ON, PINS OUT)

The benefits of this cut are not only its visual beauty but the flavour gained by cooking on the bone
and the retention of moisture and structure. This cut is perfect for grilling quickly over hot coals or
poaching in a curry or stock.
1. Start with a fish that has been gutted and 4. Once half the ribs are exposed, proceed
scaled, with fins trimmed. Position the with a short sharp knife to cut the
fish on a cutting board with the head to intercostals or the meat from between the
your left and tail to the right. Using a ribs. This meat can be set aside for another
cleaver or large chef ’s knife, cut through recipe. Repeat on the other side. To
the soft vertebrae and then find the spinal clean the flesh fully off these exposed rib
vertebrae to cut in between, allowing you bones, bring a pot of water to the boil and
to then cut off the tail end (this can be set carefully dip only the bones into the water,
aside for another purpose). What you are then use a tissue or towel to rub away the
left with now is the head end of the fish, cooked flesh from the bone.
which has one intact fillet on each side.

2. Position the fish back at the centre of the 5. With a chef ’s knife now, cut each vertebrae
board now with the head on the left and within the open cavity of the fish leaving
cavity facing away from you. Draw the you with a portion of double saddle that
blade down in a diagonal line from the has its frenched rib bones intact. Once cut,
nape behind the head of the fish, past the couple of pin bones that will now be
the pectoral fin and then finishing on visible can be removed with fish pliers.
the tail side of the pelvic fin. Repeat this
cut on the other side, ensuring the two
cuts marry up at the top, allowing you
to then cut the head and collars off. Set
the head and collars aside for a separate
application. What’s remaining now is
both fillets on the bone with the belly
still intact, meaning the rib bones are
still in place.

3. Find the lateral line of the fish by looking

for a visible line across the surface of
the skin. Once found, depending on the
size fish you are working with, place
two fingers on the belly side of the line
and make a small mark with your knife
indicating where to cut. Using a long
sharp knife, cut across this line being
careful not to cut through the rib bones
that sit immediately below (like a rack of
lamb, the idea here is to remove the belly
off half of the ribs to expose them). Repeat
on the other side and set the bellies aside
for another application.
 BONE IN FOREQUARTER

(PINS OUT AND R IBS OFF)

The final cut will have the complete spine and frame intact on the fillet but will be free of the
inconvenience of the pin and rib bones. The beauty of this cut is that it can be grilled over coals
with the freedom to cook it on both the skin and bone sides. This is such a delicious cut and
one that looks very generous when it lands on the dinner table.
1. Start with a fish that has been gutted and scaled. Position the fish closest to you and the open cavity away. Cut away 3. What you are left with now is the head end of the fish, spine to disconnect the ribs from the spine. This cut will
the fish on a cutting board with the head to your left and the dorsal and pectoral fins. which has one intact fillet on each side. Using sharp take you all the way to the end of where you have cut the
the tail to the right. Have the shoulder or dorsal side of kitchen scissors, cut down the left-hand side of the fish tail away from the fish.

4. Position the fish now with the head at the top of the around so that the head is closest to you. Using a sharp
board and the tail closest to you. Using a small sharp cleaver, split the head in half. Doing this will separate
knife, draw the blade down the scissored opening that the fillet and the head from the spine of the fish. Use
2. Using a cleaver or large chef ’s knife, cut through the soft you have made next to the spine on the left side of the fish tweezers to remove the pin and rib bones. You will
vertebrae and find the spinal vertebrae to cut in between, fish. Cut all the way through as if you are filleting be left with one side of the fish that is a quarter boneless
allowing you to then cut off the tail end. This can be set the fish. The only thing holding the fish in place now but with head and collar still attached, and the other
aside for another purpose. is it still being connected to the head. Turn the fish side will be still on the bone.
 WHOLE ROTISSERIE FISH

To ensure a crunchy exterior and juicy interior, work with a fish that is at least 1 kg (2 lb 3 oz)
minimum and has had at least 3 days to mature and dry slightly. Too fresh and too moist and the
outcome will be good but not remarkable.

Leaving the belly uncut when gutting the fish will give you extra surface area of crunchy skin while
slowing down the cooking on the rotisserie, which will inevitably give a better flavour. Alternatively,
this method can be attempted with a conventionally gutted fish.
1. To prepare the fish, start by wiping the skin to ensure
there is no surface moisture, then use scissors to cut off 3. The rotisserie spear can be placed through the mouth of the cooking, be sure to gain significant colour on both sides of
all the fins (these will be the first things to burn off on fish, down through the cavity where the offal previously was the fish before turning the rotisserie on to spin – this can be
a grill). Continue with the scissors and cut the bottom and then, following the spine down either side, puncturing done by stopping and starting the rotisserie until the colour
jaw off the fish. This will allow access to the gills, so cut the base of the tail to exit. Brush with a little olive oil, season is even – then cook until the internal temperature at the
them out too. well with salt and set aside until ready to cook. During thickest part of the fish reaches approximately 45°C (115°F).

2. Once the gills are detached from the head and collars,
pull the gills with the rest of the offal out of the opening
created by the jaw being removed. Set offal aside for
another application. Use paper towels to clean any
remaining offal out of the cavity.
 2. Cut the skin off the tuna then separate
TUNA TA I L ROUNDS
each vertebra into rounds.

This cut riffs on the idea of oxtail and the composition of oxtail rounds. When working with large
amounts of tuna, the tail section can start accumulating as a very underutilised part, due mainly
to the amount of connective tissue present within this hard-working section of the fish. Granted,
the meat from the tails can be cut away and ground into a mince to be utilised in burger patties,
bolognese and salamis, but having another option like this is never a bad thing.

3. Once the rounds are cut, assemble the

largest round in the centre of a cutting
board and then position the smaller
rounds around that central piece.

4. Using kitchen twine, make a double loop

around the circumference of the rounds
and tie them off firmly. Make a loop over
your hand as if you are trussing the fish
and place that around the diameter of
the fish. Continue to add more loops
on different tangents to help hold these
rounds of tuna in place. When the tuna
is firmly strung together, place in the
refrigerator to set.

1. Using a heavy sharp chef ’s knife, cut the tail off

the fish at approximately the fifth vertebrate.
The tail rounds can obviously be cooked independently, pan to complete the cooking of the tuna. Unlike oxtail
but to make the most of holding them together like or beef cheeks, this tuna will not take long to cook.
this, the strung tuna round can first be marinated The final product should still look medium and nice
in wine and aromatics like thyme, rosemary, juniper and rosy, but the benefit of working with the tuna tail
and orange zest. Dust the whole marinated round in is that the spine is full of gelatine and marrow. Once
a little plain (all-purpose) flour to assist in thickening it softens down, this marrow and connective tissue
the sauce around it in the end, then brown the tuna off enriches the sauce that the tuna is cooked in and gives
in a hot frying pan until evenly tanned. Remove and you something completely unique and a dish that will
drain well, then add the marinating wine to the pan wow everyone. This is best served with a good quality
and deglaze. Reduce the wine to a glaze and add a dark mashed potato or, alternatively, the wine-based braise
fish stock on top of this, or follow the recipe for Fish can be substituted for a braise of tomatoes and peppers
Jus (see page 245) and use this as the basis of a sauce. and then served with a fresh corn polenta.
Reduce by half and then add the whole round to the
 CRAFT

A butcher’s greatest opportunities lie within the sundries of a single animal. We talk
about the significant ethical responsibility in great detail in this book, but what’s as
important is the economical responsibility of the business owner. Great margins
can be achieved by creating value-added foods with these parts. If butchers never
applied themselves to this aspect of the craft then we wouldn’t have burgers, hot
dogs, ham, sausages or salami.
This section of the book highlights the many creative opportunities we are missing,
not just from a gastronomic standpoint but from extensions such as fish-fat soap,
using fish bone in ceramics and the utilisation of fish offal in alcohol production.
Deriving such craft items from one fish is part of the way we must see fish in the
future. And it is the industry’s responsibility to bring this to action.
CHARCUTERIE
 FRESH CHORIZO

What’s most important about this fish chorizo recipe is the 2 days of hanging after making. Hanging
these sausages allows the casings to dry slightly, making them far simpler to cook. Once the cases are
nice and dry after 2 days, the chorizo can be covered and stored or, alternatively, frozen.

M A K E S 9. 4 KG ( 2 0 L B 1 2 O Z ) Place the Murray cod, salmon and fish fat in the freezer. Once the fish is
O R A B O U T 7 4 S AU S A G E S below 0°C (30°F), mince through a 1 cm (½ in) plate, then combine with
the remaining ingredients and mix very well by hand (a mixer can overwork
4 kg (8 lb 13 oz) fresh boneless,
the mixture) until sticky, approximately 10–15 minutes. Place the mixture
skinless Murray cod (or gurnard)
in the refrigerator for a minimum of 2 hours.
3.5 kg (7 lb 12 oz) fresh boneless,
skinless salmon Soak casings in water for 1 hour prior to filling.
1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) Cured Fish Fat Set up a sausage filler. Temperature check the mixture during mincing and
(page 250)
filling, aiming to stay below 8°C (45°F). When filling the casings, make sure
10 garlic cloves, microplaned the work surface is damp, so the sausages don’t stick. This can be done with
30 g (1 oz) cure #1
a spray bottle of water to mist over the bench.
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) quinoa flakes
120 g (4½ oz) table salt Poke the sausages with a needle if you see any obvious air pockets and link
80 ml (2½ fl oz/⅓ cup) white vinegar the sausages by twisting them at 12 cm (4¾ in) intervals.
60 g (2 oz) chilli flakes Hang sausages on butcher’s hooks in a conventional refrigerator set between
15 g (½ oz) finely grated nutmeg 1° and 2°C (33 and 35°F). If keeping longer than 2 days, cover the sausages to
15 g (½ oz) dried oregano prevent overdrying.
15 g (½ oz) ground cumin
32 g (1 oz) ground black pepper These fresh chorizo can be simply pan-fried in a little oil or alternatively
40 g (1½ oz) garlic powder grilled over coals until just done. Subjecting the sausages to too high a heat
200 g (7 oz) smoked paprika can cause the skins to break. If cooked for too long, you run the risk of drying
200 g (7 oz) sweet paprika out the sausage as there is naturally less fat in this sausage than a conventional
ox casings meat-based variety.
 TUNA CHORIZO CASTELLANO

Unlike the Fresh Chorizo that also appears in the book (page 154), this is a cured and dried chorizo that
can be sliced and consumed as a cold cut, similar to a salami.

M A K E S 4 . 5 KG ( 9 L B 1 5 O Z ) Place the tuna, smoked salmon and fish fat in the freezer. Set up
O R A B O U T 2 5 S AU S A G E S a commercial meat grinder fitted with a 13 mm (½ in) plate.
5 kg (11 lb) boneless, skinless Once the fish is below 0°C (30°F), mince through the grinder. Mix together
tuna trim with all other filling ingredients, then place the sausage mixture in the
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) boneless, skinless coolroom for at least 1 hour until ready to fill the casings.
cold-smoked salmon fillet
Soak casings in water for 1 hour prior to filling.
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) Cured Fish Fat
(page 250) Set up a sausage filler. Temperature check the mixture during mincing and
100 g (3½ oz) table salt filling, aiming to stay below 8°C (45°F). When filling the casings, make sure
18 g (¾ oz) cure #2 the work surface is damp so the sausages don’t stick. This can be done with
15 g (½ oz) garlic powder a spray bottle of water to mist over the bench.
15 g (½ oz) onion powder Using cotton butcher’s twine, tie the sausages at intervals about 15 cm (6 in)
30 g (1 oz) ground black pepper long, making sure they are filled tight to avoid separation. Poke the sausages
15 g (½ oz) ground white pepper all over with a needle to allow moisture to escape; you want a weight loss of
7 g (⅛ oz) ground dried oregano about 30 per cent. Hang the sausages on butcher’s hooks and store in a well-
10 g (¼ oz) ground nutmeg ventilated refrigerator to dry. (These sausages are not fermented, only cured,
40 g (1½ oz) paprika so a salami cabinet is not necessary.) Allow 4 weeks and slice open to try –
10 g (¼ oz) sodium erythorbate depending on the humidity of your fridge, this process may take less or more
ox casings time. The desired result is one that is slightly chewy, not dry and crumbly, nor
too soft in the centre. Once this desired texture is achieved, store in cryovac
to avoid the risk of the salami drying out further. This can be simply served
as a cold cut.
 M O RTA D E L L A

This recipe has become a week-to-week essential for us at Fish Butchery as it utilises the trim from both
white fish and smoked salmon. The smoked salmon trim is used here as a way of getting a beautiful,
well-rounded smokiness that doesn’t rely upon smoking the mortadella itself. Once cooked and chilled,
the mortadella can simply be sliced on a meat slicer or even blended into a mousse to stuff inside filled
pasta like agnolotti or ravioli.
This mortadella recipe has been refined and tinkered with over the past few years. I can finally now
say that it is absolutely delicious.

M A K E S 2 . 7 KG (6 L B ) OR Start by setting up a commercial meat grinder on a clean work surface and

2 M O R TA D E L L A S AU S A G E S placing a Robot-Coupe processor jug and blade in the freezer.
350 ml (12 fl oz) water Before starting the mincing, combine the water and fish sauce in a measuring
150 ml (5 fl oz) fish sauce jug and place in the freezer. Leave in the freezer until the liquid is completely
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) skinless, boneless chilled but not frozen.
white fish trim (snapper, flathead, Mince the white fish and smoked salmon trim through a 2 mm (⅛ in)
cod, gurnard, mullet) mesh plate into a clean stainless steel bowl and then put in the freezer
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) skinless, boneless until very cold.
smoked salmon trim (alternatively,
salmon tails and trim can be used) Remove the minced fish from the freezer and place a quarter of the mix into
10 g (¼ oz) table salt the cold Robot-Coupe jug. Blend the fish mince with a quarter of each of the
8 g (¼ oz) caster (superfine) sugar salt, sugar, egg whites and cold water and fish sauce solution, then blend till
250 g (9 oz) egg whites very smooth. Transfer to a cold stainless steel mixing bowl and repeat with
20 g (¾ oz) coarsely cracked black the three remaining quarters.
pepper Using a rubber spatula, fold through the coarsely cracked black pepper and
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) cubed Cured Fish cubes of cured fish fat and place the mix in the refrigerator until ready to fill
Fat (page 250) or Fish Bacon cubes the casings.
(page 174)
75 mm (3 in) plastic casings Using a sausage filler, fill two 75 mm (3 in) plastic casings with the mortadella
mix. Secure both ends of the casing very tightly with butcher’s twine.
Hang in a combination steam and convection oven on butcher’s hooks. This
is done so that the finished product stays perfectly cylindrical and cooks
very evenly. Steam at 70°C (160°F) for 30–35 minutes, or until the internal
temperature reaches 58°C (135°F) on a digital probe thermometer. Allow to
cool for an hour before refrigerating. The mortadella can now be sliced on
a sharp meat slicer and served as is.
 TUNA P I S TA C H I O SALAMI

Fish salami? Although the casing that I have used here is from a cow, this otherwise completely
fish-based salami is not only extremely delicious but also remarkably similar to a meat-based product.
This recipe was developed to utilise the scraps of tuna that we would accumulate from breaking down
whole fish. In many ways it seemed startlingly obvious to reach this outcome – where would a butcher
be without a recipe that solves the issue of animal sundries?

M A K E S 4 . 5 KG (9 L B 1 5 O Z ) OR Place the tuna, smoked salmon and fish fat in the freezer. Once below 0°C
A B O U T 2 5 S AU S A G E S (30°F), mince through a 13 mm (½ in) plate on a commercial meat grinder.
5 kg (11 lb) fresh boneless, skinless Wearing gloves, mix the ground fish with all the other ingredients except the
tuna trim pistachios until sticky. Add the pistachios and give a quick mix to distribute
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) cold-smoked salmon evenly. Place the sausage mix in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour until ready
fillet, skinless to fill the casings.
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) Cured Fish Fat
Cover and soak the casings in cold water for 1 hour prior to filling.
(page 250)
100 g (3½ oz) table salt Set up a sausage filler. Temperature check the fish during mincing and filling
17 g (⅔ oz) cure #2 – you are aiming to stay below 8°C (45°F). While filling the casings, ensure
10 g (¼ oz) onion powder the work surface is damp so the sausages don’t stick. This can be done with
20 g (¾ oz) grated garlic a spray bottle of water to mist over the bench.
10 g (¼ oz) sodium erythorbate Using butcher’s twine, tie the sausages at about 15 cm (6 in) lengths, making
400 g (14 oz/2⅔ cups) peeled raw sure they are filled tightly to avoid separation.
pistachio nuts
ox casings Poke the sausages all over with a needle to allow moisture to escape; you want
a weight loss of about 30 per cent.
Hang sausages on butcher’s hooks and store in a well-ventilated fridge to
dry. (These sausages are not fermented, only cured, so a salami cabinet is
not necessary.) Allow 4 weeks before slicing open to try – depending on
the humidity of your fridge, this process may take less or more time.
 COLD-SMOKED FISH HAM

This cure translates well between a number of different species. My suggestion, however, is to work with
a fatty fish in peak condition to extend the shelf life of a beautiful fish in the form of a cold cut or ham.
If you don’t want to commit a whole fillet to this recipe, simply cure the belly of the fish. The fish
shown here is a striped marlin, and one of the loins has been removed, cured, smoked, dried for 2 weeks
and then thinly sliced on a meat slicer.

M A K E S 1 X 5 KG (1 1 L B ) HA M Stir together the water, salt and cure #1 until completely dissolved.
4.75 litres (167 fl oz/19 cups) water Place the trimmed fish in brine and refrigerate for at least 12 hours but no
250 g (9 oz) table salt more than 24 hours.
25 g (1 oz) cure #1 Remove from the brine and dry well using paper towel. Prepare a smoker and
5 kg (11 lb) boneless kingfish, tuna, cold smoke for 2 hours. Remove from the smoker and chill in the refrigerator.
swordfish or marlin, skinned and
sinew removed Once cold, this ham can be either kept fresh like this and thinly sliced
and served or be cooked. One possibility would be to cook the fish to an
internal temperature of approximately 45°C (115° F) in a low-temperature
oven and then slice thickly and drape over hot toast with raw onion, pickles
and fresh herbs.
 MARLIN ’NDUJA

Ensure your marlin is incredibly fresh when making a recipe like this – see it as a way to utilise
accumulated trim, not something that you would purchase a kilogram of perfect centre-cut marlin for.
Like the salamis, sausages and other products featured here, this is an attempt to clean up the scraps and
transform them into something delicious.

M A K E S 1 . 4 KG ( 3 LB 1 O Z ) To make the ’nduja spice mix, combine all the ingredients in a small bowl;
the excess can be stored in a clean plastic container for later use.
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) boneless, skinless
marlin trim Pass the trimmed marlin through a meat grinder on a coarse setting. Transfer
300 g (10½ oz) rendered fish fat to a large bowl, add the rendered fish fat, minced garlic, spice mix, cure #1
3 garlic cloves, minced and a pinch of salt. Using gloves, mix the ’nduja to combine (this will take
100 g (3½ oz) ’Nduja spice mix about 5 minutes to gain a slightly sticky, firm result).
(see below) Using a sausage filler, the ’nduja can be stored in collagen casings that are
3 g (⅛ oz) cure #1 tied in butcher’s twine and then hung in a coolroom to increase flavour and
’ N DU JA SP IC E M I X reduce some of the moisture. Alternatively, it can be stored in a stainless
550 g (1 lb 3 oz) smoked paprika
steel container or cryovac bag in the refrigerator to be consumed sooner.
100 g (3½ oz) sweet paprika
The ’nduja can be fried in a pan and used in place of a traditional meat-based
170 g (6 oz) table salt
’nduja or alternatively eaten as a fresh product.
20 g (¾ oz) ground nutmeg
100 g (3½ oz) chilli flakes
30 g (1 oz) ground coriander seeds
20 g (¾ oz) ground cumin seeds
20 g (¾ oz) ground black pepper
30 g (1 oz) Vegeta stock powder
30 g (1 oz) ground sumac
 TUNA SALAMI PICCANTE

This is a fiery version of our original tuna salami that utilises the trim from smoked salmon as a way
of bringing smokiness to the final product without the need to smoke the finished salami.

M A K E S 4 . 5 KG (9 LB 15 OZ) Place the tuna, smoked salmon and fish fat in the freezer. Once below 0°C,
O R A B O U T 2 5 S AU S A G E S mince through a 13 mm (½ in) plate on a commercial meat grinder.
5 kg (11 lb) boneless, skinless tuna Wearing gloves, mix the mince with all the other filling ingredients until
trim sticky, about 10 minutes. Place the sausage mix in the refrigerator for at least
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) cold-smoked salmon 1 hour until ready to fill the casings.
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) Cured Fish Fat
Soak the casings in water for 1 hour prior to filling.
(page 250)
100 g (3½ oz) table salt Set up a sausage filler. Temperature check the fish mixture during mincing
17 g (½ oz) cure #2 and filling, aiming to stay below 8°C (45°F). When filling the casings, make
15 g (½ oz) onion powder sure the work surface is damp so the sausages don’t stick. This can be done
15 g (½ oz) garlic powder with a spray bottle of water to mist over the bench.
22 g (¾ oz) kibbled black pepper Using butcher’s twine, tie the sausages at about 15 cm (6 in) lengths, making
40 g (1½ oz) smoked paprika sure they are filled tightly to avoid separation. Poke the sausages all over
7 g (⅛ oz) ground coriander seeds with a needle to allow moisture to escape; you want a weight loss of about
15 g (½ oz) ground fennel seeds 30 per cent.
45 g (1½ oz) ground chilli
10 g (¼ oz) sodium erythorbate Hang the sausages on butcher’s hooks in a well-ventilated fridge to dry.
ox casings (These sausages are not fermented, only cured, so a salami cabinet is not
necessary.) Allow 4 weeks and then slice open to try. Depending on the
humidity of your fridge, this process may take less or more time.
 TUNA IN THE STYLE OF SAUCISSON SEC

Although we cannot say that this is a saucisson sec, we can definitely reference it here as our starting
point and inspiration for this recipe. By increasing the percentage of fat and also introducing a fatty
belly section of the tuna, this salami is wonderfully luxurious and worth waiting the additional week
for it to be ready.

M A K E S 4 . 5 KG (9 L B 1 5 O Z ) Place the tuna, smoked tuna belly and fish fat in the freezer. Once below 0°C
O R A B O U T 2 5 S AU S A G E S (30°F), mince through a 13 mm (½ in) plate. Mix together with all the other
ingredients. Place the sausage mixture in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour
5 kg (11 lb) boneless, skinless
until ready to fill casings.
tuna trim
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) cold-smoked tuna Soak the casings in water for 1 hour prior to filling
belly (see Cold-smoked Fish Ham, Set up a sausage filler. Temperature check the mixture during mincing and
page 162) filling, aiming to stay below 8°C (45°F). When filling the casings, make sure
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) Cured Fish Fat the work surface is damp so the sausages don’t stick. This can be done with
(page 250) a spray bottle of water to mist over the bench.
120 g (4½ oz) table salt
20 g (¾ oz) cure #2 Using cotton butcher’s twine, tie the sausages at intervals about 15 cm (6 in)
20 g (¾ oz) ground black pepper long, making sure they are filled tight to avoid separation. Poke the sausages
225 g (8 oz) minced garlic all over with a needle to allow moisture to escape; you want a weight loss of
10 g (¼ oz) ground nutmeg about 30 per cent.
10 g (¼ oz) ground cumin seeds Hang the sausages on butcher’s hooks and store in a well-ventilated fridge
10 g (¼ oz) sodium erythorbate to dry. (These sausages are not fermented, only cured, so a salami cabinet is
ox casings not necessary.) Allow 5 weeks and then slice open to try – depending on the
humidity of your fridge, this process may take less or more time. Once the
desired texture is achieved, this salami can be cryovacked and stored in the
fridge to remove the risk of further moisture loss.
These salami are best enjoyed cut slightly thick and served with good pickles
or olives.
ESAOLA

m a single fish, this intentionally carves out the

xturally adjust it into something very similar to
ore you set out to produce this recipe.
sh to consume it as it will oxidise quickly.

combine all the ingredients for the cure.

using a sharp chef ’s knife, round off the ends and
in into an evenly sized barrel weighing approximately
m from this process should be used for another
Nduja (see page 165), Tuna Bolognese (see page 241),
22) or the salami recipes.)
to the tuna, weigh the loin to calculate the ratio
coarse sieve, dust the barrel of tuna with 40 g (1½ oz)
lb 3 oz) of tuna along with two bay leaves and half a
g sure the cure is evenly distributed. Leave to cure in
ainer in the refrigerator for 4 days, then turn and leave

innamon and bay leaves. Roll the log in collagen

od amount of overlap, then truss each log using
looping method like trussing a porchetta, then lock in
under on each loop. When you reach the top, tie off
bresaola.) Hang on a butcher’s hook in the fridge for
on its thickness.
be firm to the touch, with a defined cured edge right
esirable waxy centre. This tuna bresaola is the type of
ce straight onto the serving plate using a meat slicer
ately. Once sliced, the remaining bresaola can be
he risk of it oxidising and losing its beautiful colour.
 FISH BACON

Fish bacon might sound as enticing as plant-based bacon to most, but this creation has been the catalyst
for some of our most delicious menu items at Saint Peter, Fish Butchery and Charcoal Fish.
One dish that this bacon specifically lands on is our yellowfin tuna cheeseburger. Crowned with
a halo of the crispiest, smokiest bacon that to most is nearly unrecognisable as fish, it often shocks
pescatarians wondering if they’ve mistakenly ordered pork. The most suitable fish is one that carries
a rich amount of intramuscular fat, and this cure works best with boneless fillets as opposed to whole
fish on the bone.

M A K E S 2 . 1 8 KG (4 L B 1 3 O Z ) Weigh the fish, sprinkle evenly with the appropriate ratio of cure mix
OF CURE and place on a stainless steel tray. Allow the fish to cure for 7 days in the
refrigerator, turning each day, then rub off the excess cure.
boneless, skinless fish fillet (kingfish,
cod, swordfish, tuna, sea mullet) In a smoker, cold smoke the fish for 4 hours.
D RY BAC O N C U R E Hang the fillets on butcher’s hooks in a fan-forced refrigerator for between
(use 130 g (4½ oz) per kilogram 7 and 14 days, depending on the humidity of your fridge. Once the fillet has
(2 lb 3 oz) of fish) reduced by 30 per cent of its total raw weight, the bacon is ready. Set up a
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) caster sharp meat slicer and cut the finished fish bacon into thin slices that best suit
(superfine) sugar the application. Alternatively, the bacon can be cut with a knife for a slightly
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) table salt thicker finish. Once sliced, any remaining bacon can be returned to the
30 g (1 oz) ground star anise refrigerator and either hung or cryovaced to avoid too much more moisture
150 g (5½ oz) ground cumin seeds being lost.
50 g (1¾ oz) cure #1
150 g (5½ oz) ground black pepper
150 g (5½ oz) ground coriander seeds
150 g (5½ oz) ground fennel seeds
 SUJUK

This is our interpretation of sujuk sausage (which is traditionally made with beef or lamb and fermented)
utilising the trim of tuna. We use tuna because it is lean and, unlike other sausages and salamis in this
book, this one contains no fat at all. Once cooked, this sujuk is delicious thickly sliced and grilled over
hot charcoal.

M A K E S 2 . 5 KG (5½ L B ) Preheat a combination steam and convection oven to a 65°C (150°F) steam.
OR 3 S AU S AG E S
Place the tuna in the freezer and, once below 0°C (30°F), mince through
2.5 kg (5½ lb) boneless, skinless tuna a 2 mm (⅛ in) plate. Combine the ground tuna with all of the remaining
trim ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Place in the refrigerator until ready to fill.
70 g (2½ oz) table salt
Place the sujuk mix in a sausage filler and fill the plastic casings. Tie the
4 g (⅛ oz) cure #1 casings off very tightly with butcher’s twine and hang on butcher’s hooks
8 g (¼ oz) ground black pepper in the combination oven. Steam for approximately 20 minutes, or until the
25 g (1 oz) ground cumin internal temperature reaches 55°C (130°F).
5 g (⅛ oz) ground allspice
10 g (¼ oz) roasted red pepper puree Remove from the oven. Allow to cool for 1 hour before refrigerating,
25 g (1 oz) garlic, peeled and minced ensuring the sausages remain hung while cooling to maintain their
3 x 55 mm (2¼ in) plastic casings cylindrical shape.
Once cooled, the sujuk can be sliced and eaten as is or, alternatively, fried.
 BASIC SAUSAGE

This basic sausage recipe is a fantastic starting place to achieve just about any sausage you can imagine.
With this recipe in your tool belt, you will be able to eliminate a huge amount of fish waste. I genuinely
hope that if just one recipe is taken from this book it will be this.

M A K E S 2 . 5 KG (5½ L B ) Place the salmon, white fish and fish fat in the freezer. Once below 0°C
OR A B OU T 2 2 S AU S AG E S (30°F), mince through a commercial meat grinder with a 10 mm (½ in) plate.
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) boneless, skinless Wearing gloves, mix the mince with all the other filling ingredients until
salmon trim sticky, about 10 minutes. Place the sausage mix in the refrigerator for at least
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) boneless, skinless 1 hour until ready to fill the casing.
white fish trim (preferably cod,
Soak the casing in water for 1 hour prior to filling.
flathead, gurnard, snapper, non-
scombroid species) Set up a sausage filler. Temperature check the fish mixture during mincing
400 g (14 oz) Cured Fish Fat and filling, aiming to stay below 8°C (45°F). When filling the casing, make
(page 250) sure the work surface is damp so the sausages don’t stick. This can be done
150 g (5½ oz) quinoa flakes with a spray bottle of water to mist over the bench.
25 g (1 oz) table salt Poke the sausages with a needle if you see any obvious air pockets, then link
15 g (½ oz) ground fennel seeds the sausages into approximately 12 cm (4¾ in)lengths by twisting the filled
15 g (½ oz) ground black pepper casing by hand.
6 g (⅛ oz) cure #1
1 hog casing Hang sausages on butcher’s hooks in a refrigerator. If keeping longer than
2 days, cover the sausages to prevent overdrying.
These fresh sausages can be simply pan-fried in a little oil or, alternatively,
grilled over coals until just done. Subjecting the sausages to too high a heat
can cause the skins to break. If cooked for too long, you run the risk of drying
out the sausage as there is naturally less fat in this sausage than a conventional
meat-based variety.
 C H I P O L ATA S

Traditionally made with coarsely ground pork, this interpretation of a classic chipolata uses the fattiness
of salmon and cured fish fat to give the sausage moisture and snap. While the seasonings listed below
are one suggestion, see it as a blank canvas that can be interpreted in a number of different ways once
you have mastered the technique of sausage making.

M A K E S 5 . 4 KG (1 1 L B 1 4 O Z ) Place the salmon, white fish and fish fat in the freezer. Once below 0°C
OR A B OU T 8 8 S AU S AG E S (30°F), mince in a commercial meat grinder with a 10 mm (½ in) plate.
Mix together with all the other filling ingredients until sticky, approximately
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) boneless, skinless
10 minutes. Place the sausage mix in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour until
salmon trim
ready to fill casings.
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) boneless, skinless
white fish trim Soak the casings in water for 1 hour prior to filling.
800 g (1 lb 12 oz) Cured Fish Fat Set up a sausage filler. Temperature check the mixture during mincing and
(page 250) filling, aiming to stay below 8°C (45°F). When filling the casings, make sure
300 g (10½ oz) quinoa flakes the work surface is damp so the sausages don’t stick. This can be done with
40 g (1½ oz) table salt
a spray bottle of water to mist over the bench.
100 g (3½ oz) smoked paprika
10 g (¼ oz) sweet paprika Link the sausages into approximately 8 cm (3¼ in) lengths by twisting the
3 g (⅛ oz) sumac filled casings by hand.
3 g (⅛ oz) Vegeta stock powder Hang the sausages on butcher’s hooks in a refrigerator. If keeping longer than
3 g (⅛ oz) ground coriander seeds 2 days, cover the sausages to prevent overdrying.
3 g (⅛ oz) ground cumin seeds
2 g (⅛ oz) ground black pepper These fresh chipolatas can be simply pan-fried in a little oil or, alternatively,
2 g (⅛ oz) grated fresh nutmeg grilled over coals until just done. Subjecting the sausages to too high a heat
12 g (¼ oz) cure #1 can cause the skins to break. If cooked for too long, you run the risk of drying
2 lamb casings out the sausage as there is naturally less fat in this sausage than a conventional
meat-based variety.
 COLD-SMOKED TUNA TA I L

HAM ON THE BONE

This preparation came about in response to a lack of creativity when using a fish tail more intentionally.
Too often the tail piece of fillet is considered less desirable, so before it comes off the bone, put it to work
as a larger piece on the bone. Curing and smoking this section of the fish increases its shelf life drastically,
giving you more time and greater opportunity to use the whole fish. This is a versatile recipe that is better
applied to larger fish. Select fish with a generous amount of intramuscular fat for best results.

M A K E S 5 0 0 G (1 L B 2 OZ) To prepare this cut, lay a whole tuna across a clean work surface and, using
OF CURE a sharp knife, cut just behind the anal fin and all the way through. Remove
the caudal fin completely and trim off 5 cm (2 in) of flesh to expose the
tuna tail
bone. Once the tail bone is exposed, clean away the flesh from it for aesthetic
collagen casing
purposes. Using a sharp knife, remove the skin from the tail, ensuring that
HAM CURE minimal flesh is left on it.
75 garlic cloves, bruised, skin on Combine the ham cure ingredients in a stainless steel bowl; any excess can
1 rosemary sprig be stored in a clean plastic container for later use. Rub the skinless tail of
2 fresh bay leaves the tuna with the cure mix at the ratio of 110 g (4 oz) of cure per kilogram
15 g (½ oz) whole fennel seeds (2 lb 3 oz) of tuna. Cure the tuna tail uncovered in a sterilised storage tub
15 g (½ oz) whole black peppercorns in the refrigerator for 8–10 days, turning over every 2 days.
300 g (10½ oz) table salt
100 g (3½ oz) caster (superfine) sugar After this time has passed, wearing gloves, rub the excess cure from the tail.
50 g (1¾ oz) cure #1 In a smoker, cold smoke the tail for 2 hours, then remove and refrigerate
until thoroughly chilled.
Wrap the tail in collagen casing. (This is a preventative measure to avoid case
hardening and minimise excess moisture loss during drying.) Tie the collagen
to the bone with butcher’s twine, running the twine under the tuna and
around the bone three times with equal spacing creating six lines of twine.
On the fourth run, stop at the bottom and cut the twine, leaving 2 metres
(6½ ft) of extra twine. Start weaving the twine in and out to create a spider
web effect until you reach the bone at the top, then tie off with a loop for
the hook. Using a pin, puncture the collagen casing surrounding the tail
for ventilation.
Hang to dry in a conventional fan-forced coolroom set to 2°C (35°F) for
4–8 weeks. The final texture should resemble that of a good-quality smoked
leg ham and it can be consumed as is, cooked cut into lardons and pan-fried
or thinly sliced and used for sandwiches. After all the meat has been cut from
it, the smoked tuna tailbone can be used in stock to create a pea and tuna tail
ham soup.
 FRANKFURTS

Again, we’re not reinventing the wheel with this, merely tapping into a method that is critical in the
world of meat butchery. While all of us have likely had a hot dog, the challenge was to see if a fish
hot dog could be as delicious. The use of prawns (shrimp), scallops and the trim of salmon turn the
old-fashioned dog into something far more memorable.

M A K E S 4 . 4 KG (9 L B 1 1 O Z ) Combine the scallop, prawn, fish meat and rendered fish fat and add the salt.
OR A B OU T 4 0 S AU S AG E S Divide this mixture into four batches and blend the first in a Robot-Coupe
processor until almost smooth. Add in one of the egg whites and continue to
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) roe on scallop
blend until the mixture is smooth and mousse-like. Remove to a large mixing
meat, cleaned
bowl and proceed to blend the remaining batches, adding one egg white to
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) raw, shelled and
each batch.
cleaned prawn (shrimp) meat
800 g (1 lb 12 oz) skinless, boneless Use a sausage filler to fill and tie the mixture in red collagen casings.
salmon belly Refrigerate for at least 2 hours prior to cooking.
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) rendered fish fat Place the frankfurts in a pot of cold water over a low heat and slowly bring up
60 g (2 oz) table salt
until the water is 60°C (140°C). Turn off the heat and let the frankfurts sit in
4 egg whites the hot water for 5 minutes.
red collagen casings
Drain the sausages from the cooking water and chill on trays covered with
a damp clean cloth in the refrigerator.
To heat the frankfurts, bring a large pot of water to the boil and remove from
the stove. Place the frankfurts in the pot and place the lid on top. Stand for
approximately 10 minutes until thoroughly heated through. Remove carefully
and serve on a warm bun with your favourite condiments.
 PAT E D E C A M PA G N E

This coarsely cut ensemble of fish and offal is a remarkable way of creating a product out of potentially
discarded fish that is recognisable to those of us who appreciate the art and craft of meat-based
charcuterie. It is another great recipe to experiment with different flavours and seasonings to make it
your own.

M A K E S 6 KG (13 L B 4 OZ) Preheat a combination steam and convection oven to 90°C (195°F).
5 kg (11 lb) skinless, boneless white Place the white fish in the freezer. Once below 0°C (30°F), mince through
fish trim (cod, gurnard, dory) a 13 mm (½ in) plate. Combine the chilled ground white fish in a large
150 g (5½ oz) coarsely diced Fish mixing bowl with all of the remaining ingredients except the long fish
Bacon (page 174), plus a further bacon slices. Season with sea salt to taste.
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) sliced on its Line a 33 x 8 x 8 cm (13 x 3¼ x 3¼ in) terrine mould with the pre-sliced fish
longest side bacon, ensuring that enough bacon hangs over the sides of the terrine to later
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) Cured Fish Fat fold over and cover the top. The bacon also needs to be overlapping in the
(page 250), coarsely diced terrine to ensure the filling is completely encased.
200 g (7 oz) best fish liver, trimmed
and coarsely diced Press the mixture firmly into the mould and fold the overhanging bacon
600 g (1 lb 5 oz) brown onions, across the top.
finely diced Place a square of baking paper over the bacon and then a square of
50 g (1¾ oz) garlic cloves, grated aluminium foil to cover the terrine well, crimping the foil to seal.
20 g (¾ oz) thyme leaves, finely
chopped Place the terrine mould on a baking tray and put in the oven, cooking until
20 g (¾ oz) rosemary leaves, the internal temperature reaches approximately 55°C (130°F). Remove from
finely chopped the oven when cooked, take off the foil and allow to cool for approximately
20 g (¾ oz) ground white pepper 15 minutes.
12 g (¼ oz) cure #1 Place a rectangle of cardboard that matches the terrine width and length and
50 ml (1¾ fl oz) cooking brandy set it on top of the baking paper. Press overnight using an approximately
sea salt flakes, to taste 2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) weight.
The next day, the terrine can be turned out onto a cutting board and sliced
to serve.
 B R AW N

This recipe specifies the weight of picked and cooked head meat that you need, so the number of heads
required to achieve this will be subject to their size and yield. To cook the fish heads, set a steam oven to
70°C (160°F) and arrange the heads in one even layer. Ensure that the heads are not overcooked as they
will lose the juices and setting qualities that are essential to a beautifully dense and gelatinous finish here.

MAKES 1 Combine the still-warm cooked head meat with the other ingredients, adding
the herbs and seasoning to taste.
1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) cooked and
picked head meat and their juices Line a 33 x 8 x 8 cm (13 x 3¼ x 3¼ in) terrine mould with a double layer of
(preferably a gelatine- and plastic wrap, ensuring there is enough overhang to wrap back over the top
fat-rich fish like cod, monkfish of the terrine. Press the mixture firmly into the mould.
or coral trout) Wrap the plastic over the long sides of the terrine to keep the shape but leave
150 g (5½ oz) French shallots, peeled it open at the shorter ends to allow any excess liquid to escape while pressing.
and finely diced
170 g (6 oz) salted tiny capers, rinsed Place a thick piece of cardboard cut to size over the top of the terrine and
85 g (3 oz) Dijon mustard weigh it down evenly with something heavy. Allow it to set in the refrigerator
zest of 2 lemons overnight before using.
3 tablespoons finely chopped Use a sharp kitchen knife to slice the terrine and keep covered when
tarragon leaves refrigerated to avoid the terrine drying out.
salt and cracked black pepper, to taste
 RILLETTE

Like a traditional pork or duck rillette, this is more a mechanism for fully utilising even the most
insignificant of trim. In this recipe I have suggested using our fish ham as a starting point, as the cure
gives the fish a fantastic flavour. This rillette is rich and should be enjoyed with plenty of pickles and
fresh bread.

M A K E S 1. 5 KG (3 L B 5 OZ) Start by heating the ghee, juniper berries, garlic and herbs up to 40°C (105°F)
in a wide-based saucepan over a medium heat.
1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) ghee
12 juniper berries, crushed Place a wire rack in the base of the pan (to avoid the smoked fish getting too
1 head of garlic, halved hot on the base) and reduce the heat to low, holding the temperature between
6 thyme sprigs 40–45°C (105–115°F).
4 rosemary sprigs Add the ham to the saucepan and poach gently until the flesh comes apart
2 fresh bay leaves easily, approximately 15 minutes depending on the thickness of the fish.
1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) Cold-smoked Fish Once cooked, remove it from the ghee and set aside. Cool the ghee down
Ham (page 162) slightly and then return the fish to the pan to continue to rest and gain
6 French shallots, finely diced more flavour.
salt and freshly cracked black pepper,
to taste Once cooled, remove the fish and strain well. Using two forks, break up the
150 ml (5 fl oz) brandy fish into a consistency that is fine but not mushy.
100 ml (3½ fl oz) rendered fish fat Strain the ghee of its aromatics and measure 50 ml (1¾ fl oz) into a small
(if using, otherwise replace with saucepan. Add the diced shallots to the ghee and cook over a low heat until
additional ghee) tender and translucent. Add the shallots and ghee to the shredded fish.
Season to taste and add the brandy to the mixture.
Pot this mixture into ramekins or a terrine of choice and press down firmly
using a spoon or spatula to ensure there are no gaps. Strain another 100 ml
(3½ fl oz) of the aromatic cooking ghee into a measuring jug and add 100 ml
(3½ fl oz) of rendered fish fat (if using). Pour a thin layer of this fat over the
ramekins of rillette. Store in the refrigerator overnight to set. The rillettes are
best served with grilled sourdough and pickles.
 LIVER PÂTÉ

I absolutely love liver pâté and believe that if the fish livers are in excellent condition and the pâté is
well made, this will be a recipe you return to over and over. Be sure to keep the livers nice and pink as
if they cook too far, the pâté can end up too grainy and the finished colour can be more grey than pink.

M A K E S 1 KG (2 L B 3 OZ) Season the livers with some salt (indicative of how much seasoning you want
the pâté to have) and the cure #1 and allow to sit on a tray in the refrigerator
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) fish livers, trimmed uncovered for 10 minutes prior to cooking.
and patted dry
2 g (⅛ oz) cure #1 In a frying pan set over a medium heat, add 75 g (2¾ oz) of the butter and
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) diced butter, cook the shallots until slightly caramelised, approximately 15 minutes.
at room temperature Add in the port, thyme and bay leaves, being careful as the port will flame.
4 French shallots, peeled and sliced Boil and reduce over a medium heat until syrupy, approximately 10 minutes.
200 ml (7 fl oz) port Allow these glazed ingredients to cool while you start to cook the livers.
4 thyme sprigs
6 fresh bay leaves Set a heavy-based cast-iron pan over a high heat. Add 40 g (1½ oz) of
160 g (5½ oz) ghee the ghee to the pan and allow it to reach a light haze, then carefully add
salt and pepper, to taste approximately 250 g (9 oz) of the livers. The ambition here is to brown the
livers on both sides but keep a very rare pink interior – it should be a matter
of a few seconds on each side. The flavour created when caramelising the
livers will be critical to the final outcome. After each batch is browned off,
set the livers aside in a colander to drain. Wipe the pan out and repeat until
all the livers are cooked.
Remove the hard herbs from the reduction of port and shallots. Combine the
cooked livers with the cooled reduction and add further salt and pepper.
Using a jug blender, blend the liver mixture in four batches until completely
smooth. While still blending, drop a quarter of the remaining butter, piece
by piece, into each batch. Tip each finished batch into a fine sieve set over
a bowl, then continue blending the remaining batches.
Pass the mixture through the fine sieve with a ladle to help force it through,
season again to taste and then pour into your chosen ramekins, containers
or moulds.
A thin layer of jelly or clarified butter can be poured over the top of this pâté
to avoid oxidisation.
 TUNA, P I S TA C H I O AND FIG TERRINE

Fruit and fish? While the combination is as frowned upon as cheese and fish, I implore you to reconsider.
The tuna in this recipe could easily be mistaken for duck or pork, and it was screaming out for natural
sweetness. So the inspiration came from the use of dried fruits in meat-based terrines, which offer both
subtle sweetness but also relief when eating something quite fatty. In this recipe, the lateral swimming
muscle of the tuna is used to impart a more savoury characteristic along with a darker, meatier colour.
Most will identify this part of a fish as the ‘bloodline’, which is not actually the case.
Enjoy this one with grilled sourdough and a big spoonful of mustard.

M A K E S 6 KG (13 L B 4 OZ) Preheat a combination steam and convection oven to 90°C (195°F).
300 g (10½ oz) tuna lateral Salt the lateral swimming muscle of the tuna in the tablespoon of salt for
swimming muscle approximately 30 minutes, then finely dice.
1 tablespoon table salt, for curing Place the tuna trim in the freezer. Once below 0°C (30°F), mince through
5 kg (11 lb) boneless, skinless a 13 mm (½ in) plate. Combine the ground tuna and diced lateral swimming
tuna trim muscle with all of the remaining ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Season
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) Cured Fish Fat with sea salt to taste.
page 250), diced
600 g (1 lb 5 oz) brown onions, Line a 33 x 8 x 8 cm (13 x 3¼ x 3¼ in) terrine mould with baking paper,
finely diced ensuring that enough paper hangs over the sides of the terrine to later fold
50 g (1¾ oz) garlic cloves, grated over and cover the top. Press the mixture firmly into the mould and fold
250 g (9 oz) pistachio nuts, peeled the overhanging paper across the top. Place a square of aluminium foil to
100 g (3½ oz) dried figs, sliced cover the terrine well, crimping the foil to seal. Place the terrine mould onto
20 g (¾ oz) thyme leaves, finely a baking tray and place in the oven, cooking until the internal temperature
chopped reaches approximately 55°C (130°F). Remove from the oven when cooked,
20 g (¾ oz) rosemary leaves, take off the foil and allow to cool for approximately 15 minutes.
finely chopped Place a rectangle of cardboard that matches the terrine width and length
20 g (¾ oz) ground white pepper and set on top of the baking paper. Press overnight using an approximately
12 g (¼ oz) cure #1 2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) weight.
50 ml (1¾ fl oz) brandy
salt and cracked black pepper, The next day, the terrine can be turned out onto a cutting board and sliced
to taste to serve.
 PASTRIES,
PATTIES AND CRUMBED
GOODS
 TUNA M I N C E M E AT PIE

While there are another two white sauce-based pie recipes in this book, I wanted to include this ‘meat
pie’ that interprets tuna as beef and suspends the ground tuna in a dark fish gravy that any tradie would
be happy to squeeze tomato sauce onto for their lunch.

MAKES 75 PIES Place the tuna in the freezer. Once below 0°C (30°F), mince through
a 13 mm (½ in) plate. Set aside in the refrigerator until required.
3.5 kg (7 lb 12 oz) boneless, skinless
tuna trim In a large pan set over a medium heat, add the butter and allow it to start
125 g (4½ oz) salted butter to foam without browning. Add the onions and cook until tender, golden and
3.5 kg (7 lb 12 oz) brown onions, caramelised, approximately 30 minutes. Add the garlic, thyme, peppercorns
diced and spices and cook for a further 15 minutes until fragrant. Next add the
400 g (14 oz) garlic cloves, grated fish gravy.
50 g (1¾ oz) fresh thyme, finely In a large mixing bowl, season the tuna with the plain flour.
chopped
8 g (¼ oz) crushed black peppercorns Taking small amounts at a time to avoid lumps forming, whisk the floured
8 g (¼ oz) crushed white peppercorns ground tuna into the sauce. Once all the tuna is added and well incorporated,
8 g (¼ oz) ground nutmeg season well and cook for a further 10 minutes so the stock can thicken. The
3 g (⅛ oz) ground star anise mix shouldn’t be too loose – there needs to be enough sauce to bind the meat
3.5 litres (118 fl oz/14 cups) Fish and keep the pie juicy but not runny. Refrigerate for 24 hours to cool and
Gravy (page 249) set. (If your mix hasn’t set for long enough you will run into trouble when
75 g (2¾ oz) plain (all-purpose) flour crimping the pies.)
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) Sour cream pastry On a clean and cold work surface, lay out the pastry to cut it to size. You will
(page 212), rolled to 4 mm (¼ in) be lining the base and top of these pies, so cut a larger circle to cover the base
thickness and chilled and come up the sides with 1 cm (½ in) of overhang, and a smaller sheet
4 egg yolks, beaten, for egg wash to cover the top of the pie. For this we use circular 142 ml (4½ fl oz) dishes
measuring 9 cm (3½ in) in diameter and 2.1 cm (¾ in) deep.
Once the pastry is cut to size, line the bases of the pie dishes with the larger
rounds of pastry. Gently push the pastry into the edges so there is as much
space as possible for the filling. Spoon 100 g (3½ oz) of the chilled filling into
each pie and spread it out to fill the gaps. Place the smaller round of pastry
directly over the top of the filling and crimp the overhanging pastry from the
base layer over the top to create a neat seal.
With a pastry brush, paint the tops with the egg yolks, ensuring an even layer.
Place in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to dry the egg glaze. Glaze the pie
again before baking to create a bronzed finish. Bake in a 185°C (365°F) oven
for 25–30 minutes.
 INDIVIDUAL FISH PIE On a clean and cold work surface, lay out the pastry to cut it to size. You will
be lining the base and top of these pies, so cut a larger circle to cover the base
and come up the sides with 1 cm (½ in) of overhang, and a smaller sheet
This recipe is an excellent way to use up the trim from any mild-flavoured flaky white fish fillets. When to cover the top of the pie. For this we use circular 142 ml (4½ fl oz) dishes
we portion fish fillets for retail, we often square off a little towards the tail, the belly and the top of the measuring 9 cm (3½ in) in diameter and 2.1 cm (¾ in) deep.
fillet. You can collect and skin these trimmed pieces and they can be combined and used in this pie. Once the pastry is cut to size, line the bases of the pie dishes with the larger
It’s also a great vehicle to carry the offal of fish as well. rounds of pastry. Gently push the pastry into the edges so there is as much
space as possible for the filling. Spoon 120 g (4½ oz) of the chilled filling into
each pie and spread it out to fill the gaps. Place the smaller round of pastry
MAKES 25 PIES Chop the fish trim into 1.5 cm (½ in) bite-sized pieces and place on a deep directly over the top of the filling and crimp the overhanging pastry from the
tray in a single layer. Evenly sprinkle with the 8 g (¼ oz) of salt and toss to base layer over the top to create a neat seal.
1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) skinless, boneless combine well. Place the tray of seasoned fish in the refrigerator overnight
white fish trim (any white, flaky With a pastry brush, paint the tops with the egg yolks, ensuring an even layer.
to firm up.
and mild variety works well) Place in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to dry the egg glaze. Add another coat
8 g (¼ oz) salt The next day, preheat a steam oven to 70°C (160°F). Remove the lightly salted of egg wash to the pastry before baking to create a bronzed finish. Bake in
2 litres (68 fl oz/8 cups) brown fish from the fridge and, once the steam oven is ready, place into the oven for a 185°C (365°F) oven for 25–30 minutes.
fish stock 4–7 minutes until just cooked through. Remove from the oven and place in
200 g (7 oz) unsalted butter, diced the refrigerator to cool completely in its juices.
into 2 cm (¾ in) cubes Place the fish stock into a pot over a low heat until it just comes to a boil.
200 g (7 oz/1⅓ cups) plain Take care not to let the stock boil for longer as it will begin to reduce and the
(all-purpose) flour filling will end up too thick. For this step, we are just aiming to get the stock
pinch of freshly grated nutmeg at its hottest point.
250 g (9 oz) fresh corn cobs
250 g (9 oz) baby spinach leaves, Meanwhile, place the butter in a saucepan and set over a medium heat.
picked Once the butter has fully melted, add the flour. Combine the two together
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) Sour cream pastry into a roux and stir for 2–3 minutes, or until the rawness of the flour is
(page 212), rolled to 4 mm (¼ in) cooked out. Remove from the heat.
thickness and chilled As soon as the stock comes to the boil and the roux is ready to go, take the
4 egg yolks, beaten, for egg wash pot of stock off the heat momentarily and gently spoon the roux in. Use a
salt and cracked black pepper, to taste whisk to break up the roux and combine well into the liquid. Once the lumps
of roux have been fully incorporated into the liquid, place the pot back over
a medium-low heat and continue to whisk until the sauce begins to bubble.
Continue whisking to avoid scorching the bottom while you allow it to cook
out for a further 5 minutes. Mix in the nutmeg and season with salt and
cracked black pepper to your taste. Transfer your finished velouté into a deep
container or tray, cover with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator to cool.
Bring a pot of salted water to the boil and blanch the whole ears of corn for
5 minutes. Strain the corn from the water and remove the husk, then strip
the kernels from the cob using a sharp knife. Set aside in the refrigerator
until required.
Now to combine the filling. Into the deep container with the chilled velouté,
add the corn kernels and the picked leaves of baby spinach. Combine well,
taste and season with salt and pepper if needed. Remove the cold fish pieces
from the fridge and drain away any juices. Add the fish to the mixture
and gently combine, taking care not to break up the fish too much. Set the
mixture aside.
 E M PA N A D A S

I love these empanadas so much – whether they are cooked from fresh or frozen, they are always
consistent and adored by all. See the recipe as a good ratio of ingredients that can be adjusted and
played with to suit your own style. From pasties to curry puffs, let this be the starting point for a great
pastry and filling recipe.

M A K E S 1 2 5 E M PA N A D A S To make the pastry, melt the butter in a saucepan over a low heat. Cool to
approximately 37°C (100°F). Combine the dry ingredients and form a well
PA S T R Y in the centre. Add the water and melted butter into the well and slowly
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) butter incorporate into the dry ingredients. Knead for up to 5 minutes until the
3 kg (6 lb 10 oz) plain (all-purpose) pastry is smooth and elastic. Place in the refrigerator overnight or for at least
flour 4–5 hours to rest, so the flour can properly hydrate.
3 tablespoons baking powder For the filling, in a large cast-iron frying pan, add 50 ml (1¾ fl oz) of the oil
60 g (2 oz) salt and allow it to come to smoking point over a high heat. Add a third of the
1.25 litres (42 fl oz/5 cups) water swordfish mince and, using a whisk, break the mince up. You want to fry the
FILLING mince quickly with minimal liquid coming off so that it doesn’t boil in its
own juice and dry out. Remove each batch of browned mince from the pan
150 ml (7 fl oz) grapeseed oil
into a colander set over a bowl. Heat the pan again and cook the remaining
1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) skinless, boneless
two batches of the mince, adding another 50 ml (1¾ fl oz) of oil each time.
swordfish mince
Set the browned mince aside.
2 red capsicums (bell peppers), finely
diced, seeds and core removed Wipe the pan clean, set over a medium heat and add the remaining
2 brown onions, peeled and 50 ml (1¾ fl oz) of oil, then sweat off the capsicum and onion until softened,
finely diced approximately 15 minutes, and add the remaining ingredients except the
150 g (5½ oz) dried currants chilli and salt. Bring to a boil then lower the heat to a simmer and allow to
1 litre (34 fl oz/4 cups) fish stock reduce by half.
2 teaspoons dried oregano Add the cooked swordfish mince back to the pan and remove from the heat.
30 g (1 oz) sweet paprika
Season to taste with chilli and salt, then allow to cool.
6 g (⅛ oz) ground cumin
chilli flakes, to taste Roll the pastry out to 4 mm (¼ in) thick sheets using a rolling pin on a lightly
salt, to taste floured surface (but not too much flour as this will affect the final exterior
appearance of the empanada). Cut into circles using a 12 cm (4¾ in) round
pastry cutter.
Place a heaped tablespoon of the cooled filling into the centre of the pastry.
Use water to seal the edges shut, pushing out any air pockets first. Crimp
the edges with your fingers or use a lightly floured fork to pinch the edges
together.
Store in the freezer, ensuring the empanadas are well covered to avoid freezer
burn on the pastry.
These empanadas are best cooked from frozen in a deep-fryer set to 180°C
(365°F). Fry until golden brown and the filling in the centre is hot. Serve with
garlic yoghurt or a good squeeze of lemon.
 H O T- S M O K E D FISH PIE Now you are ready to combine the filling ingredients. Into the deep container
with the chilled sauce add the leeks, onions, peas, tarragon and parsley.
Combine well, taste and season with salt and pepper if needed. Finally, add in
This is one of two pie recipes in this book, and while the methods are similar, I absolutely love a smoked the cold fish pieces and gently combine, taking care not to break up the fish
too much. Set the mix aside.
fish pie.
Smoking the bones of the fish the day before attempting this recipe gives the stock that is the base On a clean and cold work surface, lay out the pastry to cut it to size. To line
the base and the top of these pies you will need a larger size sheet to cover the
for the pie sauce a well-rounded, smoky, savoury profile. One other point here is to commit the trim of
base, come up the sides and have an overhang, and a smaller sheet to cover
fish from the heads, tails and collars that don’t often get the full opportunity to shine. Feel free to use the top of the pie. For this recipe we use 12 rectangular 990 ml (33½ fl oz)
seasonal fish or vegetables in place of what’s suggested below. dishes measuring 17.2 x 13 x 4.3 cm (7 x 5 x 1¾ in).
Once the pastry is cut to size, line the bases of the pie dishes with the larger
MAKES 12 L ARGE PIES Place the fish trim on a tray in a single layer. Evenly sprinkle the 75 g (2¾ oz) sheets of pastry. Gently push the pastry into the edges and corners so there
of salt over the whole surface of the fillet and place the tray in the refrigerator is as much space as possible to place the filling. Spoon 600 g (1 lb 5 oz) of the
3.75 kg (8 lb 4 oz) white fish trim, overnight to firm up. filling into each pie and spread it out evenly. Place the smaller sheet of pastry
skinned and boned (a moist, flaky directly over the top of the filling. Crimp the overhanging pastry from the
variety such as blue eye trevalla or Set up a smoker to cold smoke and, once ready, add the fish bones. After base layer onto the top to create a neat seal.
cod works well) a minimum of 4 hours, remove the bones and place them into a large
container along with the bay leaves, thyme sprigs, peppercorns and cloves. In a small mixing bowl, whisk the egg yolks to an even consistency and use a
75 g (2¾ oz) salt
Cover with the milk and leave in the refrigerator overnight to infuse. pastry brush to paint the tops, ensuring an even layer. Place in the refrigerator
1.25 kg (2 lb 12 oz) fish bones (any
uncovered for 30 minutes to dry the glaze then brush again with the egg yolk
frames and bones from white, The next day, set up the smoker again, this time to hot smoke at 100°C mixture before baking. Bake in a 190°C (375°F) oven for 30–35 minutes.
clean-flavoured fish work well) (210°F).
4 fresh bay leaves
6 thyme sprigs Remove the fish trim from the fridge and pat dry with paper towel. Place
2 tablespoons black peppercorns, into the hot smoker and smoke until the internal temperature reaches 42°C
coarsely cracked (110°F) (the cooking time will depend on your smoker). Gently remove from
1 tablespoon cloves, coarsely cracked the smoker and place into the refrigerator to cool completely. Once cool, flake
2.5 litres (85 fl oz/10 cups) full-cream the fillet into bite-sized pieces and set aside.
(whole) milk Remove the infusing milk from the fridge and strain, discarding the bones
2.5 litres (85 fl oz/10 cups) white and aromatics. Place the infused milk into a large pot along with the fish
fish stock stock and place over a low heat. Slowly heat the liquid until it comes to
480 g (1 lb 1 oz) unsalted butter, diced a temperature of approximately 70°C (160°F).
into 2 cm (¾ in) cubes
450 g (1 lb/3 cups) plain (all-purpose) Meanwhile, place 450 g (1 lb) of the butter in a saucepan and set over a
flour medium heat. Once the butter has fully melted, add the flour. Stir to combine
⅛ teaspoon ground cayenne pepper into a roux and then cook for 2–3 minutes, or until the rawness of the flour is
⅛ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg cooked out. Remove from the heat.
salt and cracked black pepper, to taste Once the milk stock has reached temperature, take the pot off the heat
5 leeks, white part only, split in half momentarily then gently spoon in the roux. Use a whisk to break up and
and well rinsed combine the roux well into the liquid. Once the lumps of roux have been fully
625 g (1 lb 6 oz) brown onions, peeled incorporated, place the pot back over a medium heat and continue to whisk
and finely diced until the sauce begins to bubble.
1.25 kg (2 lb 12 oz) green peas, cooked
fresh or defrosted frozen Continue whisking to avoid scorching the bottom while you allow it to cook
3 tablespoons tarragon, picked and out for a further 5 minutes. Mix in the cayenne and nutmeg and season with
finely chopped salt and cracked black pepper to taste. Transfer the finished sauce to a deep
3 tablespoons parsley, picked and container or tray, cover the surface with plastic wrap to avoid a skin forming
finely chopped and place in the refrigerator to cool.
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) puff pastry, rolled to Slice the washed leeks very finely into half-moons and steam for 3–4 minutes
4 mm (⅛ in) thickness and chilled until tender. Cool the leeks thoroughly post-cooking to avoid discolouration.
8 egg yolks
Place a small frying pan over a medium heat. Add in the remaining butter
followed by the diced onion and a pinch of salt. Sweat the onions, stirring
occasionally, until they are soft and translucent and any excess moisture has
cooked out. Set aside to cool.
 PÂTÉ EN CROÛTE

I’m always one for a challenge and, in this case, I don’t feel it gets much more challenging than a pâté
en croûte, let alone a pâté en croûte of fish! Fish Butchery executive chef Rebecca Lara’s mastery of both
classical technique and modern thinking has brought this exceptional slice of wonder to life.

MAKES 1 Begin by placing the fish trim in the freezer to reach a temperature of
0°C (30°F) before you mince. Meanwhile, prepare the rest of the ingredients
FILLING for the filling and set up a meat grinder with a 10 mm (½ in) plate.
2.5 kg (5½ lb) boneless, skinless Once the fish has chilled enough, pass it through the grinder into a large
white fish trim mixing bowl. Combine the mince with the rest of the filling ingredients
75 g (2¾ oz) Fish Bacon (page 174), and mix well. Taste and season with sea salt as needed then set aside in the
diced into 5 mm (¼ in) cubes refrigerator.
250 g (9 oz) Cured Fish Fat (page
250), diced into 5 mm (¼ in) cubes
To make the pastry, place the flour and salt into a Robot-Coupe food
75 g (2¾ oz) cured hearts, spleens,
processor. Melt the butter gently in a small saucepan over a low heat. Add
kidneys, livers (optional)
the water and immediately turn up to the highest heat. You want the water to
300 g (10½ oz) brown onions, peeled
come to a boil quickly so it doesn’t evaporate too much and alter the result.
and finely diced Remove the hot butter and water as soon as it has come to a boil and, with
25 g (1 oz) garlic cloves, peeled and the Robot-Coupe running, slowly pour into the flour and salt. Continue
finely chopped processing for another couple of seconds until the dough begins to form
10 g (¼ oz) thyme, picked and finely into a ball, then tip it out onto a clean bench. Knead by hand for another
chopped 2–3 minutes. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and allow to rest for
10 g (¼ oz) rosemary, picked and 5 minutes to cool only slightly.
finely chopped
Once the dough has briefly rested, place it onto a lightly floured bench and
10 g (¼ oz) finely ground white
roll it out to a large sheet 7 mm (¼ in) in thickness. You will be cutting the
pepper
pastry into pieces to fit into the size of your mould – we use a traditional rect-
25 ml (¾ fl oz) brandy
angular pâte en croûte mould that measures 30 x 8 x 8 cm (12 x 3¼ x 3¼ in).
75 g (2¾ oz) toasted pistachios
From your rolled pastry, cut the following pieces: 1 x large rectangle to line
12 g (¼ oz) cure #1
the base and the two long sides of the mould, with an approximately 2.5 cm
sea salt, to taste
(1 in) overhang; 2 x small rectangles to line the shorter, smaller edges with
PA S T R Y a 2.5 cm (1 in) overhang; 1 x long rectangle cut to the same size of the mould
860 g (1 lb 14 oz) plain (all-purpose) for the top; and, from the trim, any decorative shapes you’d like. From the
flour, plus extra for dusting long rectangle for the top, punch out three 1.5 cm (½ in) holes that will allow
22 g (¾ oz) fine sea salt the steam to escape while cooking.
300 g (10½ oz) unsalted butter, diced Once the pastry has been cut, you are ready to assemble. Working quickly,
into 1.5 cm (½ in) cubes because the pastry becomes less pliable the more it cools, lightly spray or
330 ml (11 fl oz) water brush the mould with a neutral-flavoured oil. Drape the largest rectangle
12 egg yolks, beaten, for egg wash across the base and the longer sides, gently pressing the pastry into the
J E L LY corners and edges of the mould. With the yolks, brush a little egg as glue,
300 ml (10 fl oz) port then press in the two smaller rectangles to line the short sides.
3 thyme sprigs, washed Remove your filling from the fridge and begin to press into the pastry-lined
3 rosemary sprigs, washed mould. Fill the mould little by little, making sure no air pockets are forming
1 teaspoon white peppercorns, and being gentle so as not to damage the pastry lining. Once all the filling has
cracked been packed into the pastry, cover with the top, hole-punched piece of pastry.
8 g (¼ oz) titanium-grade gelatine
Brush the edges of this top pastry with egg yolk as glue then crimp over the
leaves
ice-cold water, for soaking
overhanging pastry, ensuring the filling is completely sealed off. Use the yolks
as a glue to stick on any decorative pieces you have cut.
With a pastry brush, paint the top with a thin, even layer of egg yolks,
avoiding any thick clumping, then place in the refrigerator. Repeat this
process until the pâté en croûte is glazed with a total of three layers of egg
yolks, placing in the refrigerator for approximately 30 minutes between
glazes to dry before layering on the next.
Preheat a combination steam and convection oven to 200°C (390°F).
Once the final glaze on your pâté en croûte has dried, use a sharp paring knife
to lightly score the pastry lid as desired; this adds to the decoration of the
pâté as well as allowing the glaze some room to crack in a way that you prefer.
Using a folded piece of foil, fashion three small cylinders 3–4 cm (1¼–1½ in)
in length and as wide in diameter as the punched holes in the lid. Gently push
them into the holes to assist the steam to escape during baking.
Place the pâté en croûte on a baking tray and into the preheated oven.
Cook until a skewer inserted into the centre of the pâté comes out feeling
warm. Keep a close eye on it to ensure the pastry reaches a dark golden
colour without overcooking the filling. (You may need to increase the
temperature to speed up the caramelisation if you find the filling is close
to finishing before you have achieved the colour you’d like.) This cooking
process will take 20–30 minutes, depending on the size and shape of
your mould.
Once cooked, remove the pâté from the oven, cool for 10 minutes at room
temperature, then transfer to the refrigerator and chill overnight. It is
important to allow the pâté en croûte time to properly chill as you want the
filling to shrink and set, creating gaps for the jelly.
The next day, prepare the jelly. Place the port, thyme and rosemary sprigs and
cracked white peppercorns into a saucepan, place over a medium–high heat
and bring to a boil. Allow the alcohol to cook out of the port and the mixture
to reduce by half.
Meanwhile, soak the gelatine leaves in the ice-cold water until they have
fully softened.
Once the port reduction is ready, strain off and discard the aromatics.
Squeeze out the excess water from the softened gelatine leaves, then add to
the hot reduction and stir to dissolve fully. Strain the mixture to ensure there
are no clumps of undissolved gelatine.
Pour into a small spouted jug and set the jelly aside to cool slightly to blood
temperature.
Remove the chilled pâté en croûte from the fridge. Using the foil chimneys as
funnels, slowly begin to pour in the liquid jelly. The amount of jelly that you
will need differs each time, so ensure you pour slowly as you don’t want it to
overflow over the top.
Allow it to sit at room temperature for a further 10–15 minutes as the jelly
might take time to find its way into all the gaps inside. You want to ensure
that all the gaps have been completely filled with the jelly before it sets. It is
full when the chimneys are visibly full of jelly
Once you are satisfied with the level of jelly, gently place it into the refrigerator
and allow to set for a minimum of 3 hours. To serve, gently remove from the
mould onto a cutting board and slice with a sharp serrated knife.
 TUNA WELLINGTON Construction
Roll the pastry out on a lightly floured work surface to a 3 mm (⅛ in) thick
sheet approximately 28 cm (11 in) wide and 45 cm (18 in) long. Cover and
The tuna wellington was a much-loved recipe that we developed during Saint Peter’s Covid closure in leave to rest on a baking tray in the refrigerator.
2020. Having demonstrated its technical challenges on MasterChef Australia, it is still a dish that I am Line a bench with plastic wrap twice the size of the two crepes and lay them
very proud of and one that regularly appears on both the menu at Saint Peter and as a part of the retail out on it, slightly overlapping each other going away from you. Spread the
offering at Fish Butchery. mushroom duxelles out on the crepes to 5 mm (¼ in) thickness and just
a little longer than the length of the tuna.

M A K E S 2 SE RV E S For the mushroom duxelles, preheat the oven to 220°C (430°F). Roughly Season the tuna loin well with salt and pepper. Place in the centre of the
break the mushrooms by hand into quarters. crepes and lift the bottom crepe over the tuna to wrap it in duxelles, then roll
1 x 300 g (10½ oz) tuna loin, the tuna over so it’s enclosed in the duxelles and crepe. (If you have too much
approximately 12 x 5 x 5 cm Place 100 g (3½ oz) of the ghee into each of two baking trays and place in excess, trim the crepes.) Fold down the end so it’s just covering, then wrap
(4¾ x 2 x 2 in) the oven to preheat. After 3–4 minutes, when the ghee is shimmering, add the tightly with the plastic wrap to form a cylinder. Tie the ends of the plastic
salt and pepper, to taste mushrooms to the trays and season well with salt flakes and freshly cracked firmly in a knot and place in the fridge to chill and set for 30 minutes.
3 egg yolks, beaten, for egg wash black pepper. Roast the mushrooms until well caramelised and tender,
approximately 10–15 minutes, then drain in a colander. Place the pastry on a bench and brush with egg wash. Carefully unwrap the
MUSHROOM DUXELLES tuna and work out where you need to place it to wrap it in the pastry with
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) portobello mushrooms
In a heavy-based frying pan, heat the remaining 100 g (3½ oz) of ghee to minimal overhang, leaving 5 cm (2 in) at each end to cover. Then roll the
300 g (10½ oz) ghee
a light haze over a medium heat. Add the onions, garlic and thyme and sauté tuna until it’s wrapped just once and cut along the join, leaving 5 mm (¼ in)
3 brown onions, finely diced
for 5–6 minutes until the onions and garlic begin to take light, even colour. of extra pastry and pressing together so the seam becomes invisible.
1 head of garlic, peeled and grated Add the mushrooms to the frying pan and cook over a medium heat until This seam is your base, so put it on the bottom. Pull the pastry down at each
1 bunch of thyme, picked all the juices have reduced and the onions and mushrooms begin to catch, end, then fold the ends in as if you were wrapping a present.
salt flakes and freshly cracked black approximately 10 minutes. Be careful at this point as the mixture is very easy
pepper, to taste to burn. Place the wellington on a baking paper–lined cast-iron tray. Brush with egg
wash, then leave in the fridge for 10 minutes before brushing again.
CREPES Remove from the heat and, using a perforated spoon to drain the mushrooms
further, finely chop the hot mushrooms in a food processor but do not puree. Preheat the oven to 200°C (390°F) then bake for 10–15 minutes. The internal
75 g (2¾ oz) butter
Spread onto a tray and chill. temperature should be approximately 25°C (75°F) when removed from the
60 g (2 oz) plain (all-purpose) flour
oven. Leave to rest for 5 minutes before carving. Once rested, the tuna will be
60 g (2 oz) buckwheat flour For the crepes, melt the butter in a saucepan over a low heat, or microwave. approximately 38°C (105°F). Using a sharp chef ’s knife, slice thick portions
5 g (⅛ oz) salt Sift together the plain flour, buckwheat flour and salt into a large mixing from the wellington and serve immediately.
2 eggs bowl. In a clean bowl, crack the eggs and lightly whisk together to make an
300 ml (10 fl oz) hoppy beer even liquid. Make a well in the flour and add the eggs, then the beer and then
S O U R C R E A M PA S T R Y the butter, using a whisk to combine each liquid as it is added. The mixture
400 g (14 oz) plain (all-purpose) flour,
should be free of any lumps. Leave to rest for a minimum of 30 minutes
plus extra for dusting before cooking.
10 g (¼ oz) fine salt Lightly grease a cast-iron pan with a splash of neutral cooking oil (grapeseed
280 g (10 oz) cold butter or canola) and heat over a medium flame. When the pan is hot, add a thin
200 g (7 oz) sour cream layer of the batter and swirl around until the mix just touches the edges.
20 g (¾ oz) ice-cold water When the crepe is lightly toasted on the bottom, turn the crepe over and cook
briefly for 20 seconds until the batter is cooked through. Turn out onto lightly
greased baking paper and repeat for a second crepe.
For the sour cream pastry, pulse the flour, salt and butter together in a food
processor, being careful not to blend too far as coarse pieces of butter through
this pastry are important for its final texture. Add the sour cream and chilled
water to the food processor and pulse again. The mixture should still be
crumbly but come together in your hand. Work with your palms on the
bench till the dough just comes together, no more. (You should be able
to see the pieces of butter and ripples of sour cream.) Refrigerate for at least
15 minutes before using.
 SCHNITZELS

Who doesn’t love a good schnitty? Or, at the very least, something crumbed and fried to golden
perfection. Crumbing any fish fillet removes a layer of anxiety from the challenges of cooking fish at
home. There is something about the ability of a crumbed coating to insulate and protect the flesh from
the harshness and oftentimes unforgiving nature of direct contact with a pan or grill.
Mix up the species of fish you crumb and the seasonings you add to the crumbs and flour.

MAKES 2 SCHNITZELS Take a sharp knife and, working on a steep angle, cut two thickish medallions
from the fillet of fish. (By cutting the fish on an angle you create a greater
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) boneless fish fillet, surface area, so the schnitzel will cook far more evenly.) The portions should
skin on be approximately 2 cm (¾ in) thick.
2 large eggs
50 g (1¾ oz) good-quality parmesan Place the eggs in a shallow bowl and whisk to combine.
cheese, finely grated Add the parmesan, oregano and chilli to the breadcrumbs and then add the
50 g (1¾ oz) dried oregano paprika to the flour. Tip the flour and breadcrumbs onto separate flat baking
1 teaspoon dried chilli flakes trays ready to crumb the fish.
180 g (6½ oz/3 cups) white panko
breadcrumbs Dip a fish medallion first into the flour to coat all sides, clapping away any
250 g (9 oz/1⅔ cups) plain (all- excess, then dip it into the egg mixture, allowing the majority of the egg to
purpose) flour drip away.
1 tablespoon smoked paprika Lastly, coat with the breadcrumbs, pushing down firmly so the breadcrumbs
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley stick evenly from edge to edge. Scatter over the parsley, if using.
(optional)
75 g (3½ oz) ghee Melt the ghee in a large cast-iron frying pan over a medium heat. Add the
sea salt flakes and freshly cracked fillets skin side down to the pan and cook for approximately 2 minutes on
black pepper each side, keeping the pan moving to swirl the fish around in the hot fat and
turning it over halfway through cooking until golden and evenly coloured on
both sides. Season liberally with salt and pepper, then transfer to a plate lined
with paper towel to rest before serving.
 FISH FINGERS

I grew up eating fish fingers from a box, not having any idea where they came from or what fish
they were from – and let’s be honest, when you’re six years old, these aren’t the big questions you ask
yourself. However now, as a father of four, I want to introduce the idea of knowing where your food is
from and from what sort of fish or animal it was. This knowledge empowers the consumer to see the
true value of the product while having greater confidence that this is something they want to feed their
children. It might be difficult to sell a fish head over the counter, but apply some labour to picking the
meat away from the bones and you have a product that is a wonderful alternative to the fish fingers we
grew up eating.

MAKES 70–80 FISH FINGERS To make the mix for the fish fingers, ensure you start with warm, freshly
picked fish head and collar meat (see page 60), then combine with the salt,
3 kg (6 lb 10 oz) picked head and ground pepper and ground fennel seeds.
collar meat (preferably a gelatine-
and fat-rich fish like cod, monkfish Use a large sheet of plastic wrap to line a 53 x 32.5 x 1 cm (21 x 13 x ½ in)
or coral trout) baking tray. Ensure you have a little bit of excess wrap hanging over the two
50 g (1¾ oz) salt short edges as this will help you remove the set filling from the tray.
15 g (½ oz) ground black pepper Tip the seasoned head and collar meat into the lined tray and spread out
10 g (¼ oz) ground fennel seeds evenly, smoothing any bumps and pressing out any pockets of air. Cover with
500 g (1 lb 2 oz/3⅓ cups) plain another sheet of plastic wrap and use an identical tray to press the mixture
(all-purpose) flour down. Fill this tray with something heavy to evenly weigh down the mixture
12 eggs, beaten and place the whole thing into the refrigerator for a minimum of 3–4 hours,
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) panko breadcrumbs or until completely firm and set.
Once set, remove the weighted tray and peel away the top sheet of plastic
from the set mixture. Invert the whole tray onto a cutting board and, using
the overhanging plastic, gently pull the mixture out of the tray until it falls flat
onto the board.
Once it has come loose, remove the tray and the remaining plastic sheet.
Using a clean, sharp knife, cut the slab into three long pieces along the shorter
end of the tray, then portion into 2 cm (¾ in) wide fingers. You should end up
with fingers approximately 10 x 2 x 2.5 cm (4 x ¾ x 1 in). Feel free to square
off the edges first if you prefer all the fingers to be perfectly exact in size
(this trim can be utilised as head meat in other recipes, such as Fishcakes
on page 221).
Set up a crumbing station by arranging the flour, eggs and breadcrumbs,
in order, in three wide-surfaced, shallow containers.
Crumb the fish fingers by dipping them first into the flour then into the eggs
and lastly into the breadcrumbs. Gently press the breadcrumbs into the fish
fingers to help them adhere to the egg, ensuring an even coating. Arrange the
finished fish fingers onto a tray and refrigerate or freeze until ready to use.
To cook, the fish fingers can either be shallow-fried in ghee in a cast-iron pan
set over a medium heat, deep-fried at 180°C (360°F), or baked in a preheated
190°C (375°F) oven for approximately 20 minutes, or until golden brown.
 FISHCAKES

Time to give the humble fishcake the attention it deserves! So much fish meat goes to waste, especially
from the heads, collars, tail and meat that is left on the bone after filleting, and it would be good to see
this fish find a home. There are few better vehicles for moving this type of fish than adding some
beautiful herbs, potatoes and breadcrumbs. Once assembled, these fishcakes are easy to pan-fry, and
everyone from young to old will enjoy them. Investing time and labour in removing the bones
and using up the trim is not only economically sensible but also ethically responsible.

MAKES 30 FISHCAKES Preheat a combination steam and convection oven to 100°C (210°F).
2.5 kg (5½ lb) potatoes (a floury Place the cleaned whole potatoes in a single layer on a perforated tray
variety such as sebago or kestral and steam in the preheated oven until tender. Start by checking them after
works well) 30 minutes by piercing with a paring knife; they may take longer depending
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil on the potatoes you are using. Once cooked, remove the tray and, using a tea
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) brown onions, peeled towel (dish towel) and paring knife to handle the hot potatoes, peel away the
and finely diced skin. Push the skinless potatoes through a potato ricer into a large mixing
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) picked head and collar bowl and set aside.
meat (page 60) Place a small frying pan over a medium heat. Add the olive oil followed by
3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf the diced onion and a pinch of salt. Sweat the onions, stirring occasionally,
(Italian) parsley leaves until soft and translucent and any excess moisture has cooked out. Spoon the
3 tablespoons finely chopped dill cooked onions on top of the mashed potatoes and set aside to cool.
leaves
3 tablespoons finely snipped chives Once the potatoes and onions have cooled to room temperature, add the
zest of 3 lemons cooked meat from the head and collars to the bowl along with the chopped
1 tablespoon ground fennel seeds herbs, lemon zest and ground fennel seeds.
500 g (1 lb 2 oz/3⅓ cups) plain Wearing gloves, use your hands to combine the mixture together, ensuring to
(all-purpose) flour break up and evenly disperse any flakes of meat that may have gelled together
12 eggs, beaten while in refrigeration. Taste the mixture and season with salt and pepper to
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) panko breadcrumbs your preference.
salt and pepper, to taste
Once you are happy with the taste of your fishcake mixture, portion them
for crumbing. With a weighing scale and gloves, use your hands to scoop
up and weigh out into 140 g (5 oz) portions. Shape each into a fishcake
approximately 9 cm (3½ in) in diameter and 1.5 cm (½ in) thick. Place
the fishcakes on trays, cover and refrigerate for 30–60 minutes to chill and
firm up.
Set up a crumbing station by arranging the flour, eggs and breadcrumbs in
order, in three wide-surfaced, shallow containers.
Remove the fishcakes from the fridge and dip them first into the flour, then
into the eggs and lastly into the breadcrumbs. Gently press the breadcrumbs
into the fishcake to help them adhere to the egg, ensuring an even coating.
Arrange the finished fishcakes onto a tray and refrigerate until ready to cook.
The fishcakes can either be shallow-fried in ghee in a cast-iron pan set over
a medium heat, deep-fried at 180°C (360°F), or baked in a preheated 190°C
(375°F) oven for approximately 35 minutes, or until golden brown.
 TUNA PAT T I E S

I grew up eating tuna rissoles made from canned tuna, mashed potatoes and breadcrumbs, but these
are a little different.
Tuna patties made from ground tuna trim are an integral part of the double yellowfin tuna
cheeseburger that we serve at Fish Butchery and Charcoal Fish. The ambition for this burger is not to
showcase the delicate nuances of the tuna but to step into the idea that all the sinews and aesthetically
compromised pieces of the fish can be as meaty as beef.
This recipe can be extended to tuna meatballs, koftas or even meatloaf.

M A K E S 7 5 PA T T I E S Set up a commercial meat grinder with a 13 mm (½ in) plate. Place the tuna
in the freezer. Once below 0°C (30°F), mince through the grinder.
5 kg (11 lb) boneless, skinless
tuna trim Combine the ground tuna with all of the remaining ingredients in a large
25 g (1 oz) table salt mixing bowl. Form a small patty and cook it in a hot frying pan to check the
15 g (½ oz) ground black pepper seasoning.
8 g (¼ oz) ground fennel seeds Lay two sheets of plastic wrap approximately 60 cm (23½ in) long along
45 g (1½ oz/1½ packed cups finely a bench and place a 2.5 kg (5½ lb) log of the mixture along the bottom of
chopped parsley leaves each leaving about 5 cm (2 in) of space at each end. Wrap each log tightly in
the plastic wrap by holding the ends and rolling to a length of 50 cm (19¾ in)
long. Tie the plastic off at both ends with a knot. Place the logs in the freezer
and turn every hour or so until set so the result is cylindrical and not flat on
one side.
Using a sharp knife, slice the frozen logs into 70 g (2½ oz) patties that are
approximately 1.5 cm (½ in) thick. The patties are best cooked from frozen
over a charcoal grill or on a gas barbecue to achieve maximum colour while
not drying out the fish. Brush first with a little cooking oil and then season
lightly with salt. Ensure the grill is on high or that the coals are pushed
together to create a high heat. Grill for about 2 minutes on each side and
ensure they are well caramelised to generate plenty of meaty characteristics.
Serve on burger buns with all your favourite toppings.
SNACKS AND
SUNDRIES
 R O E T O C AV I A R

Sturgeon caviar is regarded as one of the most desirable and luxurious food products on the planet. In
this recipe I attempt to bring the same desirability to the roe of a fish that isn’t a sturgeon. I have tested
this recipe on the roe of Murray cod, John Dory, mirror dory, blue eye and hapuka. Across all these
species I achieved a firm popping texture on the eggs along with a moreish level of seasoning that makes
you want another spoonful.

MAKES 10 0 G (3½ OZ) Start by cutting the membrane of the roe sac to expose the eggs within. Using
the same knife, scrape the eggs out of the membrane and place in a large bowl
2 whole fresh fish roe (approximately of ice-cold water.
150–200 g (5½–7 oz) each to yield
130 g (4½ oz) scraped, cleaned Using a whisk, separate the eggs from the loose bits of membrane that reside
eggs) within the roe – what attaches itself to the whisk is what is removed. This will
6 g (⅛ oz) table salt, depending on take several attempts and it will feel like you are discarding quite a bit, but
the roe there is a considerable amount of membrane within the roe. Once the eggs
are loose and completely separated, drain them using a sieve and discard
the water.
Transfer the eggs to a cloth or towel to drain really well; you may need to
change these a few times. Once dried, place the roe in a bowl, add the salt and
stir together. Stand for 10 minutes to allow the salt to dissolve.
Drain the roe once more and leave the eggs exposed on a tray to dry in the
refrigerator for a minimum of 4–5 hours.
Once the eggs reach a consistency that is firm but yielding and the clarity of
the eggs is noticeably more refined than before salting, store the eggs either
in a tin or airtight container. Serve generously with oysters or where sturgeon
caviar would be used.
 CURED ROE

This is not technically a bottarga and nor is it trying to be – this is our version of a cured roe that is
lightly smoked and left with some chewiness and waxiness, which I absolutely love about this product.
If you don’t enjoy this texture, dry the roe further for one that is firm enough to thinly slice or grate
over dishes.

M A K E S 75 0 G (1 L B 1 1 O Z ) To cure the roe, stir together a curing mix of one-part light brown sugar to
three-parts salt in a mixing bowl.
100 g (3½ oz) light brown sugar
300 g (10½ oz) fine salt Toss the roe gently (so as not to break it) with the curing mix along with
1 large, firm and intact roe sac from 2 g (⅛ oz) of cure #2 for every 1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) of roe. The roe should be
a large fish such as hapuka or blue coated as you would coat something in breadcrumbs. Place the roe into
eye trevalla a vacuum-pack bag with any loose curing mix and seal tightly in a cryovac
cure #2 machine. Refrigerate for at least 1 week, turning regularly.
Once the roe has firmed up significantly, it is ready to smoke. Remove from
the vacuum bag and wipe off any excess surface salt and sugar. In a smoker,
cold smoke for 2 hours. Remove from the smoker, transfer to a wire rack set
over a baking tray and refrigerate uncovered until completely cold.
Once chilled, use butcher’s twine to tie around the top of the roe to create
a loop and hang on a butcher’s hook in a fan-forced refrigerator for at least
3 weeks to firm up.
After 3 weeks, the roe should be firm to the touch but still have a slight
spring. This will give the roe a nice waxiness as opposed to something that is
dry or even crumbly. Slice the roe thinly and serve in some good extra-virgin
olive oil, like an anchovy.
 M AW CRACKLING

This is a fantastic method that brings textural life to an otherwise challenging part of the fish. See it as
a pork crackling that’s best enjoyed with a beer and plenty of salt.

MAKES 1 LARGE CRACKLING Cut the maw down one side, then lay out flat. Using a pastry card or knife,
carefully scrape away any imperfections, then transfer to a saucepan and
100 g (3½ oz) fish maw cover with cold water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to a very gentle
grapeseed, canola or cottonseed oil, simmer and cook for 30 minutes, or until the maw is soft, translucent and
for deep-frying almost jelly-like in consistency.
sea salt flakes
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to its lowest setting, about 60–70°C
(140–160°F). Line a baking tray with baking paper.
Remove the maw from the liquid with a slotted spoon and spread out
on the prepared tray. Transfer the tray to the preheated oven and leave
until completely dry, up to 5 hours. At this point the maw can be stored
indefinitely in an airtight container for later use.
To make the maw crackling, half-fill a large saucepan with oil for deep-frying
and heat over a medium–high heat to 185–190°C (365–375°F). Using a small
pair of tongs, very carefully place the dried maw in the oil for just a few
seconds until the skin has puffed up and tripled in volume but not coloured.
Quickly remove from the oil and drain on a wire rack.
Season liberally with salt then serve as a snack or cut into smaller pieces to
garnish a dish of raw fish for additional texture and flavour.
 SMOKED MILT

Milt (aka fish sperm) can provoke much hesitation in Western cookery due in part to its texture and
appearance. However, if you start to see it more as meat offal, like brains or sweetbreads, the opportunities
open up. This method is assistive as it again preserves the offal, meaning there is less of a ticking clock
for it to be consumed. The curing, smoking and drying are all critical variables to achieve a really
delicious outcome.
My favourite way to work with this product is to pan-fry slices of the smoked milt in ghee and serve
it with the fish that it was from or on toast, or even diced and added to the mortadella, sausage or
terrine recipes.

MAKES 1 For the milt cure, add all ingredients to a clean stainless steel bowl and
combine. Once combined, keep in a clean, dry container for future use.
1 large, firm and intact milt sac from
a large fish such as hapuka or blue Weigh the milt sac and work out the amount of cure that you will need.
eye trevalla Coat the milt sac evenly in the cure mix as you would coat something in
CURE breadcrumbs. Place uncovered on a clean stainless steel tray and refrigerate
(use 130 g (4½ oz) per kilogram for at least 2 days, depending on its size, turning regularly.
(2 lb 3 oz) of milt) Once the milt has firmed and it has dropped a lot of moisture, it is ready to
250 g (9 oz) caster (superfine) sugar smoke. Remove from the cure and wipe off any excess.
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) table salt
In a smoker, cold smoke the milt sac for 2 hours. Place uncovered on
75 g (2¾ oz) ground cumin
a perforated tray and allow to dry in a refrigerator for at least 48 hours.
25 g (1 oz) cure #1
The ideal texture of the smoked milt will be a slightly leather-like dry finish
75 g (2¾ oz) ground black pepper
around the outside with a firm but buttery interior. Alternatively, the milt
75 g (2¾ oz) ground coriander seeds
can be dried out completely and then ground to use as a seasoning.
75 g (2¾ oz) ground fennel seeds
 SALT AND VINEGAR FISH

At Saint Peter, I always announce this as one of my favourite dishes to eat. Be sure to pour gordal olive
brine over the pickled fish and have some warm sourdough and cultured butter at the ready. This is a
wonderful method for any fish: just adjust the salting and vinegar times based on the size of the fish, but
this example is a great starting point. Only leaving it in the vinegar briefly maintains a slight rawness in
the centre of the fillet, which gives an amazing final texture that doesn’t taste as familiar as pickled fish.

MAKES 4 To pickle the mackerel fillets, leave the pin bones in place. Season both the
skin and flesh sides evenly with the salt, then place on a tray and refrigerate,
4 very fresh blue mackerel fillets, uncovered, for 1½ hours.
ribs removed, tail intact
(about 80 g/2¾ oz each) Once that time has passed, rinse the salt from the fish in a small amount
80 g (2¾ oz/⅔ cup) sea salt flakes of the vinegar. Submerge the vinegar-rinsed fish in a bath of the remaining
250 ml (8½ fl oz/1 cup) champagne vinegar and leave to pickle for 20–25 minutes.
vinegar Remove the pickled mackerel, reserving the vinegar for the next batch you
make. Remove the pin bones from the fish at this stage using pliers.
Turn the fish onto the flesh side so the skin is facing up. Using a pair of fish
pliers or tweezers, grab onto the corner of the skin closest to where the head
would have been and pull the skin gently off the flesh, leaving behind the
silver skin.
Slice the mackerel about 5 mm (¼ in) thick, working from the head to
the tail.
Assemble a mackerel across each of four serving plates.
 OLIVE OIL–COOKED TUNA

I enjoy cooking in olive oil as it brings such a unique texture and flavour to the final outcome. Texturally,
I find canned tuna to often be far too dry and lacking in seasoning, so utilising a very sinew-heavy cut
of tuna in this way transforms it into something remarkable for salads and sandwiches. The cut we
selected (or, rather, the cut that was constantly pushed aside) is the sinew-rich chain that sits adjacent to
the dorsal fins of the fish. However, the tougher cut from the tail end of the tuna or even the very fatty
belly will also give a great result.
Have a play around with different flavours to find something you really enjoy.

SE RV E S 4 For the tuna, use a sharp knife to cut the length of the chain into thirds.
1 skinless tuna chain cut, about Place the tuna chain on a tray, season liberally with salt and lay the lemon
1.5–3 kg (3 lb 5 oz–6 lb 10 oz) zest, broken dried chillies, bay leaf and the whole rosemary sprigs over it.
table salt Leave uncovered in the refrigerator for approximately 3 hours.
peeled zest of 1 lemon After this time has passed, place the seasoned tuna into a deep baking dish
2 dried red chillies with a wire rack set inside it. Pour over the olive oil and cover the dish with
1 fresh bay leaf a square of baking paper.
1 bunch of rosemary
1.5 litres (51 fl oz/6 cups) extra-virgin Place in a low oven set to 65°C (150°F) and cook the tuna until it reaches an
olive oil internal temperature of 58°C (135°F).
Remove the tray from the oven and keep the tuna fully submerged in the oil
until it is completely cooled.
Transfer to the refrigerator once cooled, keeping the tuna submerged to gain
flavour from the fragrant oil. The tuna can be cut into smaller pieces, covered
with the oil and stored in vacuum-pack bags sealed in a cryovac machine or
in a sterile glass jar in the refrigerator.
Use this cooked tuna through salads, on toast or blended into a fantastic
tonnato sauce.
 GARFISH STICKS

These skewers are a thought-provoking and visually striking preparation that could be the catalyst for
many other interpretations. As a consumer, knowing these are boneless gives so much confidence to
enjoy this beautiful fish straight off the skewer.
While they can be marinated or further vegetables added to the skewer, there is something beautiful
about the fish in this simple preparation. And this is one of my favourite dressings, so be sure to squirrel
it away as it works on everything!

MAKES 6 Lay a butterflied garfish on a cutting board with the head to the left and tail
to the right. Make a cut just behind the head to remove the head and collars
6 boneless, butterflied garfish together. Cut the collars off the head and set aside for another purpose or for
60 ml (2 fl oz/¼ cup) grapeseed oil stock. Keep the head to one side ready for assembly.
sea salt flakes
6 metal or soaked bamboo skewers Cut index finger–width squares of the butterflied fillets until you reach the
tail. You will have approximately six or seven stacked squares of fillet when
DRESSING
finished, depending on the size of the fish.
50 g (1¾ oz) achiote paste (available
from a Mexican grocer)
Taking a sharp skewer, thread the tail on and push down to the halfway point.
250 g (9 oz/1 cup) unsalted butter Then add each stacked square of fillet to the skewer in the order that they
80 ml (2¾ fl oz) sherry vinegar were cut, finishing with the head right at the end of the skewer. Repeat with
25 ml (1 fl oz) mushroom soy sauce the other garfish.
Chill the skewers for 10–15 minutes to cool the fish down after having
worked with it as it can take time to thread the fillets on carefully.
While you are waiting, add the achiote to a food processor and pulse to a fine
crumb. Add to the butter in a large saucepan and set over a medium heat.
When the butter is bubbling, whisk the achiote to ensure it doesn’t stick to
the base of the pan or become lumpy.
After 7–8 minutes, the milk solids in the butter will begin to change to a nut-
brown colour and have a toasted hazelnut–like aroma. Remove from the heat
and add the sherry vinegar, being careful that it doesn’t overflow. Once the
pan has settled, add the mushroom soy and keep warm to serve. (Don’t strain
the achiote – the coarse crumble is chewy and absolutely delicious.)
Preheat a charcoal or gas grill.
Brush the skewers with a little grapeseed oil and season well with sea salt
flakes. Place the skewers over a medium heat and, without wanting to apply
any colour, allow the smoke from the coals to gently cook the flesh of the
garfish. (This will take approximately 4–5 minutes, depending on the heat of
the coals – you can always cook a little more so please leave some life in the
garfish as they don’t like too much heat.) Spoon the warm achiote dressing
over the garfish and serve immediately.
 TUNA BOLOGNESE (R A G U )

While it’s common to see meat-based ragus appearing on tables all over the world along with everyone’s
favourite, spag bol, I truly hope that inside the next five years, ground tuna trim and scraps will be
available to buy over the counter in both markets and stores so this meat-based dish can have a fish
makeover. This doesn’t mean taking more tuna out of the water – it means seeing to it that every last
scrap of all the fish that are caught is consumed before the next fish is taken. Don’t limit the potential
of this ragu to only pasta – this is also a great addition to mashed potatoes, polenta, rice or loaded into
a toasted sandwich.

M A K E S 5 KG (1 1 L B ) Place the tuna in the freezer. Once below 0°C (30°F), mince through
a 2 mm (⅛ in) plate. Keep in the refrigerator until required.
1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) boneless, skinless
tuna trim Combine all the chopped vegetables and garlic together in a bowl.
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) brown onions, In batches, pulse the vegetables together in a Robot-Coupe or food
peeled and chopped processor to finely chop.
750 g (1 lb 11 oz) carrots, peeled In a large pan set over a high heat, add 150 ml (5 fl oz) of the grapeseed oil
and chopped and allow it to begin to smoke. Add half the tuna mince to the pan and use
4 celery stalks, tops removed, a whisk to break it apart so that all the mince separates. (You want to fry
chopped the mince quickly with minimal liquid coming off it and maximum colour
75 g (2¾ oz) garlic cloves, peeled achieved, so that the mince doesn’t boil in its own juices and dry out.)
and minced Remove the mince and set aside in a colander to drain off the oil. Repeat
400 ml (12 fl oz) grapeseed oil with a further 150 ml (5 fl oz) of grapeseed oil and the remaining mince.
300 ml (10 fl oz) white wine
180 g (6½ oz) jar of tomato paste Using the same pan, add the remaining 100 ml (3½ fl oz) of grapeseed oil and
(concentrated puree) allow the pan to reach a light haze over a medium heat. Add the vegetables
2.5 kg (5½ lb) tinned crushed to the hot pan and sweat for approximately 15 minutes, seasoning well with
tomatoes a healthy pinch of salt. Cook until the vegetables have fully softened, the
1 fresh bay leaf moisture has left the pan and the oil begins to fry the vegetables again, then
pinch of freshly grated nutmeg add the white wine to deglaze the pan and use a spoon to lift off the sediment
1.5 litres (51 fl oz/6 cups) water that has stuck to the base of the pan Add the tomato paste and cook out for
salt and pepper, to taste 3 minutes.
Return the mince to the pan along with the tinned tomatoes, bay leaf, nutmeg
and water. Bring to a boil, then turn down to a simmer so it is bubbling gently
and cook out for 2½ hours until the tuna is tender. You are looking for the
sauce to have thickened and reduced well, the colour to have deepened to
a dark red and the oil to be starting to emerge on the surface. The finished
bolognese can be stored in either the refrigerator or freezer.
 FISH CONSOMMÉ

There are more modern ways of producing a fish consommé with different filtration and clarification
methods, however clarifying a stock with a raft is a skill I’m glad I acquired. For this recipe we selected
the bones from coral trout due to its high gelatine content and refined, sweet finish. This consommé
freezes very well.

MAKES 2 LITRES Preheat an oven to 190°C (375°F).

(6 8 F L OZ/8 CUPS)
To make the fish stock, start by spreading the fish frames, heads and collars
evenly across baking trays. Place trays in the oven and bake until completely
STOCK
golden brown all over. The heads and collars will take a little more time as
4 fish frames there will be considerably more meat on these parts. Turn them as they cook
4 fish heads, gills and eyes removed to colour evenly.
8 fish collars
200 g (7 oz) salted butter Set the roasted bones aside until required.
250 g (9 oz) French shallots, peeled In a large, heavy-based saucepan, melt the butter over a medium heat until
and diced it begins to bubble. Add the shallots, celery, garlic cloves and herbs and
200 g (7 oz) celery stalks, diced cook until tender, about 20 minutes. Add the vinegar to the pan and reduce
75 g (2¾ oz) whole garlic cloves down to a glaze, about another 10 minutes. Add the water, dashi, shiitake
½ bunch of thyme mushrooms, dried roe, corn cobs and the roasted bones. Bring the stock to
2 rosemary sprigs a boil, then reduce to a simmer over a medium heat for 1½ hours.
300 ml (10 fl oz) champagne vinegar
4 litres (135 fl oz/16 cups) water
Add the mussels, oysters and kombu to the simmered stock, bring it up
4 litres (135 fl oz/16 cups) dashi to boil again and then remove from the heat and allow to steep for 1 hour.
200 g (7 oz) dried shiitake Strain the stock into a clean container and chill overnight.
mushrooms For the raft, blend the white fish in a food processor to a coarse paste.
100 g (3½ oz) dried fish roe or Remove to chill in the refrigerator then add the vegetables to the same food
dried anchovy processor and blend to a coarse pulp. Mix the blended fish and vegetables
4 corn cobs, husks stripped together and set aside.
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) mussels in shell
In a large mixing bowl, whisk the egg whites to soft peaks. Fold into the
1 dozen oysters, shucked and juices
reserved
blended fish and vegetables, then season this raft mixture with a good pinch
of salt.
25 g (1 oz) dried kombu
salt, to taste Decant the fish stock into a large saucepan. Whisk the egg raft into the cold
RAFT
stock and then place it over a low heat. As the stock comes up to a simmer,
occasionally stir the raft gently to stop it sticking to the base of the pan. The
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) white fish objective is for the raft to set across the top of the stock and draw all the
½ carrot, coarsely cut impurities out of the stock, leaving behind a beautiful clear consommé.
1 celery stalk, coarsely cut Once the stock reaches a low simmer, cook it out for another hour, which
½ brown onion, coarsely cut will reduce the stock by a third.
10 egg whites
pinch of salt Place a fine sieve lined with cheesecloth or muslin over a large bowl and
pass the stock through carefully, ensuring the raft is left behind in the pot
and any impurities are held in the sieve. This is easily done with the use of a
ladle as opposed to tipping the whole stock into the sieve. Season the finished
consommé. If you notice any oil or impurities on the top of the stock, remove
with a paper towel placed on the surface.
The consommé is best served as a soup or can be set with gelatine for
a unique textural addition to raw fish or vegetable dishes.
 FISH JUS

While the Fish Gravy (see page 249) is thicker and a little more aligned with a gravy roll, this jus has
a far more refined finish that will act as the mother sauce for a whole list of other conversions you wish
to make. From diane to mushroom to pepper sauce, nothing is off limits.

M A K E S ABOU T 2 2 5 M L (7 ½ F L OZ) Place the fish bones and trim in a wide, shallow frying pan that will fit them
in one layer and brown over a medium-high heat for at least 15 minutes.
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) clean white fish bones The aim is to scrape up the sediment that settles on the base as it forms,
and trim (from the butchery of allowing all the fat to render and the trim to crisp up. When very brown,
a whole fish) tip everything into a colander over a bowl and allow any fat to drain,
10 French shallots, finely sliced reserving the fat for later.
6 garlic cloves, finely sliced
300 ml (10 fl oz) white wine Return the solids to the same pan, add the shallots and garlic and cook for
200 ml (7 fl oz) white-wine vinegar 10 minutes, or until lightly coloured and starting to smell sweet. Add the
5 fresh bay leaves wine, vinegar, bay leaves, juniper berries, peppercorns and thyme and
20 g (¾ oz) juniper berries cook, stirring often, for 10 minutes, or until reduced to an almost glaze-like
20 g (¾ oz) whole black peppercorns consistency. Add the soy sauce and stock and bring to a boil, then reduce the
20 g (¾ oz) whole white peppercorns heat and simmer very gently, turning the fish occasionally, for 20 minutes,
1 bunch of thyme or until thickened and reduced.
80 ml (2½ fl oz/⅓ cup) dark soy sauce Strain through a sieve, pressing hard on the solids, then strain again through
600 ml (20½ fl oz) brown fish stock a second clean sieve into a fresh pot and leave to rest in a warm spot so the
fat separates from the sauce. Pass the warm reserved fat through a very fine
sieve, then pour over the sauce. Warm the sauce over a low heat, just to
heat it through without boiling. The jus is now ready to be spooned over or
alongside grilled fish or vegetables. It can also be cooled and then refrigerated
or frozen in a clean plastic container.
 RENDERED F I S H F AT

There are a huge number of fish species that carry a substantial amount of visceral fat within the cavities,
so keep your eye out when gutting a fish. This rendered fat is fantastic for anywhere oil would be used,
from emulsion sauces, roasting potatoes or fish, or even in making chocolate.
To render fish fat, place it in a saucepan and gently melt over a low heat; it should take about 10 minutes for it to
liquefy. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve to remove any impurities. Pour into airtight containers and cool, then store
in the fridge for up to 2 weeks, or in the freezer for up to 2 months.
 F I S H G R AV Y

This fish gravy is thick, rich and glossy and a brilliant alternative to that typical ‘squeeze of lemon’.

MAKES ABOUT 250 ML Preheat an oven to 200°C (390°F). Lay out the fish frames evenly in one layer
(8½ FL OZ/1 CUP) on a baking tray. Roast until well caramelised, turning every 10 minutes over
the course of 30–35 minutes.
2 kg (4 lb 6 oz) fish frames, including
heads, fins and cartilage (gills and In a large pan, heat the ghee over a high heat until a haze comes over the
organs removed) pan, then add the onions and garlic. Stir so they are coated in the hot ghee
100 g (3½ oz) ghee and begin to soften evenly, then reduce the heat to medium and keep stirring
6 large brown onions, finely sliced until they begin to toast lightly around the edges, about 10–15 minutes.
6 garlic cloves, sliced Add the bay leaf, thyme, fresh fish skin and roasted fish bones to the pan
1 fresh bay leaf and cook for a further 10 minutes until the onion has begun to caramelise,
15 thyme sprigs then deglaze the pan with the wine and vinegar. Simmer over a medium heat
200 g (7 oz) fresh fish skin until reduced to a syrup, approximately 15 minutes. Stir in the Vegemite
300 ml (10 fl oz) white wine and dark soy followed by the fish stock, then bring to a simmer and cook
2½ tablespoons sherry vinegar for 20–25 minutes, or until reduced by half.
1 teaspoon Vegemite Transfer batches of the contents from the pan to a food processor and pulse
1 teaspoon dark soy sauce
to a thickish, coarse sauce. Pass each batch through a fine sieve, discarding
750 ml (25½ fl oz/3 cups) brown
the solids, then taste and adjust the seasoning. At this point, the sauce may
fish stock need further reduction.
sea salt flakes and freshly cracked
black pepper To check the viscosity of the reduced sauce, spoon some onto a dinner plate
to see how thick it is when it cools. If it is too thin, return to a medium heat
and simmer for a further 5 minutes, or until the gravy is thick enough to
lightly coat the back of a spoon. It is now ready to serve, or store the gravy
in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 1 week or in the freezer for up
to 1 month.
 CURED F I S H F AT

To say that fish fat is a linchpin throughout this craft section of the book is probably an understatement.
Fish fat has been a profound discovery for me in further advancing and refining these charcuterie-
style items.
The fat used in this recipe is cut from a Murray cod. We have found that this type of fat is predominantly
found within the cavity of aquaculture species that are fed more than a wild fish would be, or well-fed
wild fish in peak condition.
Being acutely aware of and looking out for this part of a fish will give you the best chance of accumulating
and salting enough of it down to start putting it to work.

M A K E S 1 KG (2 L B 3 OZ) Toast the black pepper and fennel seeds separately and grind coarsely in
a mortar and pestle. Sift the spices, keeping the coarse seeds and setting the
10 g (¼ oz) whole black peppercorns powder aside for another application.
5 g (⅛ oz) whole fennel seeds
90 g (3 oz) table salt Combine the spices with the salt, sugar and rosemary. Rub the cure evenly
30 g (1 oz) caster (superfine) sugar across the fat until completely covered. Place the fat into a sterilised container
2 tablespoons fresh rosemary leaves, and refrigerate in the cure for 5 days. After this time has passed, remove any
finely chopped excess liquid from the container and brush off the residual cure from the fat.
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) fresh fish fat, trimmed If you intend to utilise this fat for charcuterie-based applications, store
in a sealed container in the freezer until needed. If using for slicing and
applications that extend to immediate consumption, either wrap the fat in
muslin (cheesecloth) and hang on hooks in a fan-forced refrigerator until it
has dried and is firm to touch, or alternatively place the cured fat on a wire
rack and allow to dry in the refrigerator for a minimum of 7 days to reach
a texture that is simple to slice.
 FISH-EYE ICE CREAM

When you eat ‘normal’ ice cream made with eggs, do you ever ask yourself, does this ice cream taste like
chicken? This ice cream is in absolutely no way fishy in its taste or texture. It is to me a revelation that
the vitreous humour of a fish can behave in a similar way to an egg in making ice cream.
The fish eyes must be incredibly fresh and from a known supplier, and arrive to you whole and intact
on the fish. This will ensure the sanitary condition of the eye.

M A K E S 1 L I T R E (3 4 F L OZ/4 CUPS) Start by removing the eyes and setting on a board. Using a sharp knife, make
a cut in the back of an eye. The liquid that will come out first is the aqueous
4–6 large fish eyes (or more smaller humour; discard this. Carefully pull out the firm pupil of the eye and attached
eyes) to yield 4 g (⅛ oz) of vitreous to that will be a clear gel-like sac which is the vitreous humour. This can
humour simply be snipped off the pupil and set aside for the ice cream. The remainder
425 g (15 oz) full-cream (whole) milk of the eye can be used in another application. Remove the vitreous humours
12 g (¼ oz) tapioca flour from the remaining eyes until you have 4 g (⅛ oz).
200 g (7 oz) overcooked steamed
white rice In a saucepan over a medium heat, whisk together the milk, tapioca flour and
730 g (1 lb 10 oz) natural yoghurt vitreous humours. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce heat to medium–
5 g (⅛ oz) fine salt low and continue to whisk for approximately 10 minutes until the mixture
110 g (4 oz) dextrose thickens and the consistency becomes very viscous, like a creme pâtissière
60 g (2 oz) caster (superfine) sugar or white sauce.
Place the remaining ingredients in a large bowl and pour the thickened milk
mixture on top.
In small batches, blend the custard in a jug blender for 5 minutes per batch.
Once all blended, strain through a fine sieve into a bowl, then sit the custard
over a second bowl of ice water until completely cold.
This mix can now either be churned in a commercial or domestic ice-cream
machine, or ideally in a Pacojet. Follow the instructions of your chosen
equipment.
Serve the ice cream with your favourite condiments. A multitude of flavours
can be added to this recipe to suit any palate.
 CHRISTMAS PUDDING

This is a conventional Christmas pudding, full of everything you would expect a good pud to have, with
one special addition. One year I had some cured fish fat in the kitchen and thought, well, if we put an
animal’s suet in the mix, why not fish? Merry Fishmas.
You will need a 1.7-litre (57 fl oz) pudding basin with a lid.

MAKES 1 LARGE PUDDING Add all the dried fruits together with the alcohol. Leave to stand for
a minimum of 24 hours but up to a week to develop in flavour.
150 g (5½ oz) sultanas
175 g (6 oz) raisins When the fruits have had their steeping time, put a pot of water on to boil
175 g (6 oz) prunes, chopped to come halfway up your pudding basin or heat some water in a conventional
310 g (11 oz) dried currants steamer, and butter your pudding basin and the lid.
75 g (2¾ oz) mixed peel, diced In a large mixing bowl, combine all the remaining ingredients with the
125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) brandy macerated fruits by simply stirring it together with a rubber spatula. Scrape
125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) rum the mixture into the prepared pudding basin, press the mixture down and
125 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) Guinness put on the lid. Crimp a square of aluminium foil over the basin lid so it
200 g (7 oz) Cured Fish Fat (page is watertight.
250), grated from frozen
120 g (4½ oz) self-raising flour Put the basin in the pot of boiling water or in the top of a lidded steamer
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) dark brown sugar and steam for 5 hours, checking every now and again that the water hasn’t
320 g (11½ oz/4 cups) fresh finely completely evaporated. When it’s had 5 hours, remove the basin from
ground breadcrumbs the steamer and set aside to cool slightly (or remove from the basin and
1½ teaspoons mixed spice wrap in baking paper and foil once cooled and store in a cool, dry place
¾ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg until Christmas).
¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon To serve, place a plate on top of the basin, turn it upside down and unmould
zest of 1 orange the pudding. Serve with plenty of warm custard and ice cream, or even
juice and zest of 1 lemon fish-eye ice cream (see page 253)!
2 green apples, peeled and grated
100 g (3½ oz) toasted flaked almonds
175 g (6 oz) toasted walnuts, chopped
coarsely
300 g (10½ oz) treacle
4 whole eggs
ARTISANAL GOODS
 F I S H - F AT C O C K TA I L S

B Y M AT T W H I L E Y AT R E B A R

Fish sundries over the years have been underused, a cryovac bag along with 1 litre (34 fl oz/4 cups) of spirit
especially in the bar world. But now, with the genius (we usually use vodka). The bag is sealed and put in a
that Josh is showing in his restaurants and books, water bath at 60°C (140°F) to melt all the sugars and fat.
people like me have been afforded the opportunity to After an hour or so, this goes into the freezer overnight.
learn, taking these ingredients and using them to create Next morning, we finely strain the liqueur through
special flavours. Using every part of all ingredients is coffee filter papers and the result is an incredible salted
really important for the future of food not just here in caramel–flavoured spirit.
Australia but globally, and Josh is at the forefront We also use pure fish fat in the same way as above
of that. to add viscosity and texture to drinks. Repeat the same
We utilise fish fat in two ways. Josh and the team steps as the cod fat caramel spirit but with 175 g (6 oz)
make an incredible cod fat caramel (featured in The of pure fish fat.
Whole Fish Cookbook), so we put 250 g (9 oz) of this in
 F I S H - F AT S O A P

B Y G R AC E OF T H E S OA P ST R E S S

As a little girl, I remember watching my nonna and tallow from cows. I read books from soapmakers
rubbing a chunky bar of soap against a zigzag abroad about how they would use what was local to
washboard, the bubbles doubling and tripling in size them, including tallow from bears, deer and ostrich!
until they cascaded down her arm. I knew the soap Nothing was off limits here – or so I thought. When
was made from the fat of the pig they slaughtered Josh approached me to formulate a soap using the fat
every year, but I always wondered: how could fat rendered from Murray cod, I admit to feeling very
clean anything? intimidated. I mean, wouldn’t the soap smell fishy?
When I grew up, had children of my own and And indeed, when I made a trial batch using only this
embarked on the ‘as natural as possible’ route, I visited fat, it most definitely was – no amount of essential oils
my nonna to ask if she would teach me how to make was going to help me there! It was also really soft and
soap for my family. didn’t feel that amazing, to be honest.
Amazingly, my nonna, who couldn’t read or write, Not discouraged, I made a second batch, this
made beautiful soap. She didn’t have a recipe or a time, using 50 per cent Murray cod fat blended with
scientific calculator to ensure her soap wasn’t ‘lye heavy’. other oils that would promote hardness, lather and
Instead, she would float an egg in a solution of water moisturising qualities. Not bad, I thought to myself.
and lye. The egg served as a gauge that would reveal if I was close, but it still wasn’t perfect. I played around
there was enough or too much lye in the water to turn with different percentages of Murray cod fat until I hit
the fat into soap. nirvana. Now, I don’t say nirvana lightly. I’m a soap
Armed with Google, I set off to explain the chemical connoisseur – honestly, more like a soap snob. And
reaction I had just witnessed. this blew my socks off!
The process of making soap is called saponification, As I rolled the soap in the palms of my hands,
an exothermic (heat-creating) chemical reaction that the rich, buttery lather built up and my senses were
occurs between fats or oils and a base. What is left immediately heightened by the release of the beautiful
behind is soap and glycerine. I found this intriguing and blend of essential oils, and the soap felt silky and rich.
immediately started experimenting with various fats As I rinsed, my hands felt as though I had applied hand
and oils, each time discovering their different qualities lotion. I knew the texture of the soap was directly linked
and how they changed the finished soap. to the high linolenic acids from the fish oil. It was
Being a butcher, I naturally started with the fats perfect, and I have no doubt that we will be seeing
I had on hand, learning how to render lard from pigs a lot more fish fat soap in the years to come.
 F I S H - F AT CANDLES

BY HUNTER CANDLES

Candle making is a somewhat mysterious craft. As a Murray cod fat glistened. It has a thinner consistency
chandler, I can’t help but obsess over the wax, the wick than soy wax, so it took longer to cure, blend and
size, how the candle burns, how it sets, how long it harden. But once it did, I looked for crystallisation,
lasts, how well the scent throws … And that’s just the aesthetic inconsistencies and density. The colour was
beginning. I’ve been honing my craft for fifteen years creamy, the wax fat hard. From here it was a case of
now as Hunter Candles, yet I am still discovering, trial and error, the first of which saw rogue chunks in
learning and experimenting each and every day, which the candle catch the flame and crackle the fat. In candle
only further fuels my addiction. making that uses oils, this is known as the flash point.
When Josh, Julie and Ben bustled into our store one I liked the melty fat smell and ended up using the
fresh Sydney morning, I knew exactly who they were – rendered fish fat, which was velvety and had a low melt
their reputations precede them. But I could never have point, marrying with the wax perfectly. The end result
guessed the opportunity they were about to present to was creamy to burn, and the natural scent had a subtly
me: to create a candle from their spare Murray cod fat. sweet note, so we focused on additional scents that
The nose in me piqued as I imagined what pure blubber would complement it, something intriguing and elegant
from a Murray cod might smell like – bad, I presumed. that would melt away any hesitation that may come with
Yet the more I mulled it over, a fabulously fatty, muddy, burning a candle made from discarded blubber.
seawater burn began swimming around my mind. We looked to where you find Murray cod, their
Naturally I jumped at the opportunity and began natural habitat. They mostly swim in rocky streams
impatiently awaiting the arrival of my blubber. and billabongs framed with fallen red gums and moss-
While it might sound subversive, the concept of covered rocks. From there we fell into green botanicals,
fish-fat candles has been around since the eighteenth muddy mossy notes, a touch of pink peppercorn and
century. Wax from sperm whales was used by chandlers a woody cedar base. Ultimately raw, earthy, yet still
as it burned cleanly and didn’t produce an unpleasant fresh in a unique way. We’ve called it Murray Cod
aroma like some tallow candles. While sperm whale Pepper Rocks.
wax is no longer used, the concept itself still serves Lighting our candle for the first time, a herbaceous,
as inspiration. mossy breeze with an unmistakable earthy base and
On arrival, the ‘fishy’ smell intrigued me – without slight sprinkling of savoury pepper envelops the space.
hesitation, I threw my nose straight into the bag of It’s a scent that can absolutely hold its own, anywhere,
blubber. It’s a scent that’s hard to pin down, but to me anytime. I am eternally grateful to Josh, Julie and Ben
it smelled soft and salty, like a wrist without perfume. for bringing this type of craft into the conversation.
And somehow not like fish at all. It has recalibrated the way I think about how candles
I dived headfirst into experimentation, meticulously are made, and about what other readily available
weighing, smelling, mixing and stirring, tweaking possibilities may be out there in less common mediums.
a little each time. Wax and fat are fabulous friends, It’s only sensible that we keep pushing the boundaries of
and when heated they blend together beautifully. The what’s possible when it comes to sustainability.
 FISH-BONE CERAMICS

BY SAM GORDON

As a third-generation potter, clay has always been temperature gets up to 1000°C (1830°F) so the bones
a constant in my life. School holidays from as early as calcify. This firing takes 8 hours, then once the bones
I can remember were spent with pottery, from making are cool to touch they are easily crushed into a powder.
a mess to weighing clay for the potters. I add this powder to either my white or clear glaze
Supplying the hospitality industry with venue- recipe, which is essentially a liquid glass comprising
specific plates has always been my passion. The of silica, aluminium oxide and fluxes that melt at
opportunity to use bones that would otherwise be temperature. I require 1240°C (2265°F) as the top temperature.
a waste product in any other kitchen (even after stocks The beauty of adding a percentage of bone ash to
have been made) in the glaze of the crockery is the glaze is that it makes a glaze translucent and helps
extremely rewarding. it to melt into the body, plus we are using a product
The use of bones in either the body of clay (bone that would otherwise be waste. The use of the bones in
china) or the glaze is not new and was first done in the ceramics truly closes the loop between a restaurant, fish
1750s. The bones from Fish Butchery are first boiled market and potter. But this is only the beginning – we
to remove any tissue, then I fire the bone alongside my have much more to explore with bone ash in glazes and
hand-thrown crockery in a vessel called a bisque, the in a pure bone china that requires 40 per cent bone ash.
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Once again, having the opportunity to express my our entire team is invaluable. Thank you for your
thoughts, views, and practices with regards to fish is patience, technical prowess and good humour
something for which I am incredibly grateful. And the throughout the years we have worked together and
only reason I have the freedom to explore and develop help in making this book what it is.
techniques – both old and new – is the incredible Chris Karvellas, thank you for steering the ship
people around me. through any conditions, for loving the team and our
First and foremost, to my beautiful wife Julie, businesses as if they were your own and for always
without whom Saint Peter, and all the businesses we being a beacon of possibility and positivity.
have created together, would have never existed (nor To Simon, Daniel, Rob, Lucy, Michael, Roxy,
survived). Your endless trust, courage and tenacity Julie, and the entire team at Hardie Grant, past and
continues to inspire me every day. present. Thank you for your belief in me and for
Rebecca Lara, you are the backbone of Fish Butchery. your focus and attention in bringing this beautiful
Your enduring work ethic and tremendous technique book to life.
has motivated and inspired those around you for all Further thanks to everyone who contributed to
the years we have worked together. this book – from the brilliant craftsmanship of
To Ben Torrance, you are the one who got the wheels Claudio Morales to the very thoughtful words written
turning and allowed me the freedom to be at my very by Luke Buchholz, Darren O’Rourke, Tony Wearne,
best. Not only are you an incredibly gifted chef and Matt Whiley, Vianney Hunter, Sam Gordon and
leader but a wonderful friend and driving force behind Grace Steven, not to mention the masterfully designed
the work we do. illustrations by the extraordinary Reg Mombassa.
Bosley McGee, you are as rare as a needle in This book would be nothing without you all and
a haystack. What you bring to Fish Butchery and I am forever grateful. Thank you.

– Josh

269
 Published in 2023 by Hardie Grant Books, an imprint of Hardie Grant Publishing

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All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form
by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the
publishers and copyright holders.

The moral rights of the author have been asserted.

Copyright text © Josh Niland 2023

Copyright photography © Rob Palmer 2023
Copyright illustration © Reg Mombassa 2023
Copyright design © Hardie Grant Publishing 2023

Fish Butchery
eISBN 978 1 76145018 1

Publisher: Michael Harry

Project Editor/Editor: Simon Davis
Copy Editor: Simone Ford
Design Manager: Kristin Thomas
Designer: Daniel New
Photographer: Rob Palmer
Stylist: Lucy Tweed
Production Manager: Todd Rechner

Hardie Grant acknowledges the Traditional Owners of the country on which we work, the Wurundjeri people of the Kulin
nation and the Gadigal people of the Eora nation, and recognises their continuing connection to the land, waters and culture.
We pay our respects to their Elders past, present and emerging.