PHARM-4203

Dr. Rafiquel Islam (Azam)

Ph.D. in Environmental Science,
School of Environmental and Life Sciences,
University of Newcastle, NSW, Australia
&
Assistant Professor
Dept. of ACCE, IU, Kushtia
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Course name: Cosmetology

Course objectives:

 Cosmetology
 Skin creams
 Shaving preparations
 Dental products
 Hair products
 Brief study on deodorant
 Lip-products
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CHAPTER 5: Hair products

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Haircare Products
Hair Care products are those that help to control the properties and behavior of the hair so that it
can be maintained in a controlled and desirable manner. This can include hair conditioners, hair
sprays, hair straighteners and relaxers, permanent waves, shampoos, rinses, tonics and
dressings.

 Haircare products for healthy hair:

 Shampoo for washing out the impurities.
 Dry shampoo for a quick cleansing alternative.
 Conditioner for nourishing your tresses.
 Hair spa and mask for pampering your hair.
 Hair serum for smooth and shiny locks.
 Hair spray for instant styling and volumized hair.
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Important Haircare Products

Maintaining a healthy scalp and hair through good hygiene and proper hair care can help prevent
and control many diseases and conditions.

Why is natural hair care important?

 Natural shampoos and conditioners will combat any hair problems you might have.
 Some will increase the rate that your hair grows,
 some are provide smell great, and all of them are chemical free.
 Natural hair care products can contain antioxidants. These will help your body to get rid of free
radicals.
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Shampoos:

 Shampoo (/ʃæmˈpuː/) is a hair care product, typically in the form of a viscous liquid, that is used
for cleansing hair. Less commonly, shampoo is available in solid bar format. Shampoo is used by
applying it to wet hair, massaging the product into the scalp, and then rinsing it out. Some users
may follow a shampooing with the use of hair conditioner.

 Shampoo is typically used to remove the unwanted build-up of sebum in the hair without stripping
out so much as to make hair unmanageable. Shampoo is generally made by combining a
surfactant, most often sodium lauryl sulfate or sodium laureth sulfate, with a co-surfactant, most
often cocamidopropyl betaine in water. The sulfate ingredient acts as a surfactant, trapping oils
and other contaminants, similarly to soap.
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Commonly used ingredients of Shampoos:

 Ammonium chloride
 Ammonium lauryl sulfate
 Glycol
 Sodium laureth sulfate is derived from coconut oils and is used to soften water and create a
lather. There was some concern over this particular ingredient circa 1998 as evidence suggested
it might be a carcinogen, and this has yet to be disproved, as many sources still describe it as
irritating to the hair and scalp.
 Sodium lauroamphoacetate is naturally derived from coconut oils and is used as a cleanser and
counter-irritant. This is the ingredient that makes the product tear-free.
 Polysorbate 20 (abbreviated as PEG(20)) is a mild glycol-based surfactant that is used to
solubilize fragrance oils and essential oils,
 Polysorbate 80 (abbreviated as PEG(80)) is a glycol used to emulsify (or disperse) oils in water
(so the oils do not float on top like Italian salad dressing).
 Polyethylene glycol diester of stearic acid (PEG-150 distearate) is a simple thickener.
 Citric acid is produced biochemically and is used as an antioxidant to preserve the oils in the
product. While it is a severe eye-irritant, the sodium lauroamphoacetate counteracts that
property. Citric acid is used to adjust the pH down to approximately 5.5. It is a fairly weak acid
which makes the adjustment easier. Shampoos usually are at pH 5.5
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Commonly used ingredients of Shampoos (continue):

 Quaternium-15 is used as a bacterial and fungicidal preservative.

 Polyquaternium-10 has nothing to do with the chemical quaternium-15; it acts as the
conditioning ingredient, providing moisture and fullness to the hair.
 Di-PPG-2 myreth-10 adipate is a water-dispersible emollient that forms clear solutions with
surfactant systems.
 Chloromethylisothiazolinone, or CMIT, is a powerful biocide and preservative.
 Hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, or Hypromellose, is a thickener and stabilizer.
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Benefit claims regarding ingredients

 Many products are purported to protect hair from damage due to ultraviolet radiation. While the
ingredient responsible for this protection does block UV, it is not often present in a high enough
concentration to be effective. The North American Hair Research Society has a program to certify
functional claims based on third-party testing.
 Shampoos made for treating medical conditions such as dandruff or itchy scalp are regulated as
OTC drugs in the US marketplace.

 In the European Union, there is a requirement for the anti-dandruff claim to be substantiated as
with any other advertising claim, but it is not considered to be a medical problem
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Health risks of Shampoos

A number of contact allergens are used as ingredients in shampoos, and contact allergy caused by
shampoos is well known. Patch testing can identify ingredients to which patients are allergic, after
which a physician can help the patient find a shampoo that is free of the ingredient to which they are
allergic. The US bans 11 ingredients from shampoos, Canada bans 587, and the EU bans 1328.

For example, Additionally, propylene glycol, a chemical solvent and emulsifying agent, the
antioxidant vitamin E (tocopherol), and benzophenones, used to absorb UV light, are all potential
allergens. These allergens can create shampoo allergy symptoms in people leading to skin
irritation and irritant dermatitis
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Specialized shampoos
Anti-Dandruff shampoo: Cosmetic companies have developed shampoos specifically for those who have
dandruff. These contain fungicides such as ketoconazole, zinc pyrithione and selenium disulfide, which
reduce loose dander by killing fungi like Malassezia furfur. Coal tar and salicylate derivatives are often
used as well. Alternatives to medicated shampoos are available for people who wish to avoid synthetic
fungicides. Such shampoos often use tea tree oil, essential oils or herbal extracts.

Baby shampoo: Shampoo for infants and young children is formulated so that it is less irritating and
usually less prone to produce a stinging or burning sensation if it were to get into the eyes. For example,
Johnson's Baby Shampoo advertises under the premise of "No More Tears". This is accomplished by
one or more of the following formulation strategies. Use of surfactants which, alone or in combination,
are less irritating than those used in other shampoos (e.g. Sodium lauroamphoacetate)

Sulfate-free shampoos: Sulfate-free shampoos are composed of natural ingredients and free from both
sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium Laureth sulfate. These shampoos use alternative surfactants to cleanse
the hair.
Animal Shampoo: It is intended for animals may contain insecticides or other medications for treatment
of skin conditions or parasite infestations such as fleas or mange. These must never be used on humans
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Flow chart
shampoo
manufacturing
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Discussion:
A typical manufacturing process would be as follows:

Surfactants and Water is mixtured into the two individual process vessels. This is often heated to around
130-140℉ (55-65℃) to aid dilution/hydration of other ingredients. The first ingredient added is normally
the surfactant, as other additives, particularly those which affect viscosity, can make dilution of the
surfactant more difficult. Conditioners and other ingredients are added. All ingredients are mixed well and
adjusted pH as required level ( less than 7, usually 5-6). Sodium chloride or other viscosity modifiers are
added last, along with color and fragrance. Then bottling and ensure finished products with quality test.
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Hair setting lotion:

 it's a styling product used to set hair into a particular shape or style. The lotion is similar to a gel;
it works by coating the hair and stopping strands from drying out when being set in rollers.
 It comprises a predetermined amount of a polymeric compound for setting the hair and a
propylene oxide and ethylene oxide adduct of a higher alcohol. The adduct is contained in an
amount of 0.05-1.0 time the polymeric compound on the weight basis

How Do You Apply Hair Setting Lotion?

 Hair setting lotions are typically applied to damp hair, but be careful: You don’t want to apply the
product to thoroughly wet hair, as this will dilute the product and affect your overall look

 It recommend reading the instructions carefully, because while mousses and gels are typically
applied by putting the product onto your hands and then rubbing it into the hair, some hair setting
lotions are sprinkled evenly, directly onto the hair. Once you’ve saturated your hair with the lotion,
you can begin to set your hair into the style you want to create by using hair rollers or curling
clips.
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Types of hair setting lotion?:

 Curl defining cream.

 Styling gel.
 Mousse and foam lotion.
 Pomade and butter.
 Edge control.
 Heat protectant.

Does hair setting lotion work?

The lotion is similar to a gel; it works by coating the hair and stopping strands from drying out
when being set in rollers. And afterward? Once dry, it keeps the set style for a long period of time
by stopping moisture from being absorbed by the hair.
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Hair tonic?
A liquid or gelatinous substance applied to the hair on one's head to improve its
appearance in various ways.

What are the main ingredient in hair tonic?

 A hair tonic composition according to the present invention comprises a gibberellin as an

effective ingredient. Further, a hair tonic composition according to the present invention
comprises a gibberellin and a proteolytic enzyme as effective ingredients.

 active ingredients like collagen, biotin, caffeine, and niacin. Plus, keep your eyes out for
natural ingredients, especially herbals, that can help to banish hair loss and dandruff, including
birch, yarrow, rosemary, witch hazel and nettel.
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Hair liquid vs hair tonic

If you have thick and dry hair, hair oils are always
a better option to keep it hydrated and soothe the
scalp. But if you have a flaky and itchy scalp, a
hair tonic is a better option because it will
stimulate blood circulation in the hair follicles and
hydrate the hair and it's not going to weigh it down
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Hair Conditioner
 Hair conditioner is a hair care cosmetic product used to improve the
feel, texture, appearance, and manageability of hair

 While shampoo opens the hair's cuticles to cleanse the dirt and
impurities, a conditioner seals them to lock in the moisture. These two
essential hair care products complement each other to give you
healthy, strong, and moisturised tresses. You may notice a difference in
your hair's texture from the first wash itself.
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Ingredients:
There are several types of hair conditioner ingredients, differing in composition and functionality:
•Acidifiers, acidity regulators which maintain the conditioner's pH at about 3.5. In contact with acidic
environment, the hair's somewhat scaly surface tightens up, as the hydrogen bonds between the keratin
molecules are strengthened.
•Antistatic agents which bind to the hair and reduce the static, these can include cationic polymers such
as Polyquaternium-10 and Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
•Detanglers, which modify the hair surface pH as acidifiers, or by coating it with polymers, as glossers.
Glossers, light-reflecting chemicals which bind to the hair surface. Usually polymers, usually silicones,
e.g., Dimethicone or Cyclopentasiloxane.
•Lubricants, such as fatty alcohols, Panthenol, Dimethicone, etc.
•Moisturizers, whose role is to hold moisture in the hair. Usually, these contain high proportions of
humectants. These could also be provided by natural oils such as Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet
Almond) Oil.
•Oils (EFAs – essential fatty acids), which can help dry/porous hair become more soft and pliable. The
scalp produces a natural oil called sebum. EFAs are the closest thing to natural sebum (sebum contains
EFAs).
•Preservatives that protect the product from spoilage by microorganisms during the product shelf life.
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Sunscreen:
Sunscreen, for protection against protein degradation and color loss. Currently Benzophenone-4 and
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate are the two sunscreens most commonly used in hair products.

Cinnamidopyltrimonium Chloride and a few others are used to a much lesser degree. The common
sunscreens used on skin are rarely used for hair products due to their texture and weight effects.

Surfactants – approximately 97% of hair consists of a protein called keratin. The surface of keratin
contains negatively charged amino acids. Hair conditioners therefore usually contain cationic
surfactants, which don't wash out completely, because their hydrophilic ends strongly bind to keratin.
The hydrophobic ends of the surfactant molecules then act as the new hair surface. Examples are
Behentrimonium Chloride and Cetrimonium Chloride

Thermal protectors, usually heat-absorbing polymers, shielding the hair against excessive heat, caused
by, e.g., blow-drying, curling irons or hot rollers. Silicones, which may include: Cetearyl Methicone, Cetyl
Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone., Dimethicone., Dimethiconol, Stearyl Dimethicone.
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Conditioner: Mechanism of actions

The outermost layer of a hair follicle is called the cuticle and is composed largely of keratin. This is rich
in cysteine groups which are mildly acidic. When the hair is washed these groups can deprotonate,
giving the hair a negative charge.

The ingredients in conditioner, especially positively charged quaternary ammonium species, such as
behentrimonium chloride or polymers that are known as Polyquaternium-XX, where XX is an arbitrary
number, can then become attached to the hair via electrostatic interactions. Once attached these
compounds have several effects. Their long hydrocarbon backbone helps to lubricate the surface of
each hair follicle, reducing the sensation of roughness and assisting combing. The surface coating of
cationic groups means that hairs are repelled from each other electrostatically, which reduces clumping.
The compounds can also act as antistatic agents, which helps to reduce frizzing.
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Flow chart
Conditioner
manufacturing
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After adding deionized water, start heating, add No.3 and 5 ingredients, and start
A room temperature stirring (30-35) Hz

room Add No.1, 2, 4 and 9 ingredients, keep stirring and heating

B
temperature~70℃
Heating to 80℃, stop it, and start homogenization, vacuumizing(vacuum degree
C 80±5℃
≥0.5MPa), insulated stirring 20-30 min
D 80±5℃ Turn on cooling, close homogenization, continue stirring(46-51)Hz
Cooling to 50℃, break vacuum, add No.6, 7 and 8 ingredients in sequence, continue to
E 50±2℃ vacuumize and stir (46-51)Hz
Cooling to 45℃, stop stirring, break vacuum, and inform QC to collect sample and test
F ≤45℃

G ≤45℃ After passing the test, discharge the conditioner

Remark ☆ marked as the critical control point

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