SUNSCREEN
FORMULATION
PT. Menjangan Sakti
Topics
Sunscreen product in
global market
UV filters for UVB and UVA
protection
Formulation
Q&A
UV
FILTERS
UVA-II
Spectrum of UV Filters
Take care of each wavelengths
a. Exctintion profile
SPF 14 = 5% EHT, 10% DBT
b. transmision profile
SPF 50 = 5% EHT, 10% DBT + 4% MBBT
Source : Osterwalder, Uli; Sohn Myriam; Herzog Behrn. Global State of Sunscreen. Photodermatology,
[Link]
Photoimmunology, Photomedicine. page 62-80. John willey&Sons, Ltd. 2014
[Link]
Calculated SPF 28
In Vivo SPF 50+
How to explain this?
[Link]
Ideal distribution
Real distribution
Substrate = skin
Need formulation that gives good layer on skin
Source : Osterwalder, Uli; Sohn Myriam; Herzog Behrn. Global State of Sunscreen. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology, Photomedicine. page 62-80. John willey&Sons, Ltd. 2014
Ideal Sunscreen Formulation
Safe & Meeting the regulation
UV filters efficiency, low dosage UV
filter can achieve optimum SPF & PA
protection
Good film former, good layer on skin
Good sensory
Cost efficient
Combine the right
UV filters Photostability
Boost SPF
Broad
spectrum
MBBT is reported to improved the photo stability of OMC;
without MBBT, 27% of OMC was lost after irradiation 10
MED, in the presence of MBBT the lost only 8%(1)
Octocrylene are reported can stabilize Avobenzone
due to triplet-triplet quenchers activity(1).
Recommended ratio Avobenzone : Octocrylene = 1 :
0.8 - 1,5
BEMT is reported to improved the photostability of
Avobenzone. Recommended ratio
Avobenzone : BEMT = 1 : 1 or 1 : 0.7
EHT is reported to improved the photostability of
Avobenzone. Recommended ratio
Avobenzone : EHT = 1 : 0.3 - 0.8
Mineral UV filter (Zinc Oxide or Titanium Dioxide) will boost Source :
Nadim A. Shaath. Sunscreens Regulations and Commercial Development 3rd Vol. 28.
SPF when used together with OMC Taylor&Francis. 2015 Chatelain E., Gabard, B. Photostabilization of Avobenzone and OMC by BEMT,
A New UV Broadband Filter. Photochemistry and Photobiology 2001, 74(3): 401-406.
Broad Spectrum
*SPF 15 sunscreen with different
degrees of UVA protection
profiles, from UVB-biased
toward the ideal sunscreen
(garments) calculated with UV
simulator
Source : Osterwalder, Uli; Sohn Myriam; Herzog Behrn. Global State of Sunscreen. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology, Photomedicine. page 62-80. John willey&Sons, Ltd. 2014
Film former,
good layer on skin Sensory
Thickness
homogeneity
Emollient selection to ensure
UV filter solubility
Source :
Nadim A. Shaath. Sunscreens Regulations and Commercial Development 3rd Vol. 28. Taylor&Francis. 2015 Chatelain E., Gabard, B. Photostabilization of Avobenzone and OMC by BEMT, A New UV Broadband Filter. Photochemistry and
Photobiology 2001, 74(3): 401-406.
Effect of compositional
SELECT UV FILTERS
film hight and surface
roughness on SPF
thickness and homogeneity
of sunscreen film on skin
contribute to SPF number
How to achieve good film former?
by adding film former?
It's not enough!
Maintain film former on skin with
liquid crystal or lamellar structure
Potassium Cetyl
Phosphate
Emulsifier with Liquid Crystal
or Lamellar structure
2% POTASSIUM CETYL
PHOSPHATE
Heliofeel Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
lamellar structure liquid crystal
Forget me not!
Preservative in sunscreen
Preservative in high sunscreen products is tricky
These are tips for preserving a sunscreen product :
Do not use formaldehyde donor preservative in sunscreen contain
Avobenzone
Increase paraben dosage when using with ethoxylated non-ionic
surfactants
Increase Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin
(Euxyl PE 9010) dosage up to 1.5% or use preservative combination with
Sensiva PA 40
Non-Phenoxyethanol formula can usecombination of Propanediol,
Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylhydroxamic acid
Source :
Nadim A. Shaath. Sunscreens Regulations and Commercial Development 3rd Vol. 28.
Taylor&Francis. 2015 Chatelain E., Gabard, B. Photostabilization of Avobenzone and OMC by BEMT,
(Sensiva SC 80)
A New UV Broadband Filter. Photochemistry and Photobiology 2001, 74(3): 401-406.
Format Technology
Emulsion Oil
Gel Cream Water
Spray Oil + Alcohol
Stick Bi-Phase
Formulation
LOOK INSIDE
SUNSCREEN PRODUCT
UV Filter
Emollient
Emulsifier, co emulsifier
Film Former
additional
thank you
APPLICATION LAB PT MENJANGAN SAKTI
