Influence of values, brand consciousness and

behavioral intentions in predicting luxury

fashion consumption
Pradeep Kautish
Department of Marketing, Institute of Management, Nirma University, Ahmedabad, India
Arpita Khare
Department of Marketing, Indian Institute of Management Rohtak, Rohtak, India, and
Rajesh Sharma
Department of Economics, School of Business, Mody University of Science and Technology, Sikar, India

Abstract
Purpose – This paper aims to examine the relationships among two distinct yet interconnected forms of value orientations, namely, terminal and
instrumental values, brand consciousness and behavioral intentions. This study validated the conceptual model for branded fashion apparel
consumption in an emerging market, e.g. India.
Design/methodology/approach – The research design followed a two-step approach to test the measurement and structural models for partial
least squares structural equation modeling with SmartPLS (v.3.0) as recommended by Anderson and Gerbing (1988).
Findings – The results illustrated that both the instrumental and terminal values influence brand consciousness and, consequently, brand
consciousness had an impact on behavioral intentions for fashion apparel consumption. Instrumental values had a greater influence on brand
consciousness and behavioral intentions than terminal values. Brand consciousness mediated the relationship between instrumental/terminal values
and behavioral intentions.
Research limitations/implications – This study defined two value orientations (i.e. instrumental versus terminal) using cross-sectional data from
an emerging market. Future studies may examine the research findings’ generalizability using diverse data sets (longitudinal and cross-sectional)
and evaluate the value orientation and customers’ favorable behavioral intentions for luxury fashion consumption.
Practical implications – This study provides insights into luxury marketers and practitioners to understand the contribution of instrumental and
terminal values on brand consciousness and behavioral intentions for luxury fashion apparel. The findings would assist in developing marketing
strategies for an emerging market, i.e. India.
Social implications – With the rapid proliferation of materialism, the Indian market has witnessed the dawn of a new era of luxury fashion
acceptance. The research offers evidence that in emerging markets such as India, consumers exhibit value orientation toward luxury brands while
holding a sense of fashion involvement in their consumption behavior.
Originality/value – This study is a pioneering attempt to understand the relationships between the value orientation, namely, instrumental and
terminal values and their underlying influence on brand consciousness and behavioral intentions toward fashion apparel. Rokeach’s (1973) two-
dimensional value dichotomy was adapted to understand luxury apparel consumption in an emerging market context, specifically India.
Keywords Values, Brand consciousness, Behavioral intentions, Instrumental, Terminal, Fashion apparels
Paper type Research paper

1. Introduction economic growth that outpace the developed markets. In the

marketing landscape, these characteristics have created new
The global personal luxury goods market is estimated to reach sizable opportunities in the form of a middle class that fuels the
e320–365bn by 2025 at an annual growth rate of around 3%– demand for branded products (Kumar et al., 2015). Among the
5% (Bain and Company, 2018). The emerging markets (EMs) BRIC countries, China and India have emerged as potential
have become the growth engines of the world (Burgess and markets contributing to the growth in demand for luxury goods
Steenkamp, 2013; Sinha and Sheth, 2018), which got two vital (Euromonitor International, 2019). According to McKinsey’s
characteristics: large and young populations and positive FashionScope report, India’s apparel market will be worth
$59.3bn, and the sixth-largest in the world by 2022 (McKinsey,
2019). India has been predicted as the “Star of Asia” registering
The current issue and full text archive of this journal is available on Emerald
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Received 26 August 2019

Revised 13 September 2019
Journal of Product & Brand Management 27 January 2020
© Emerald Publishing Limited [ISSN 1061-0421] 13 April 2020
[DOI 10.1108/JPBM-08-2019-2535] Accepted 22 April 2020
 Predicting luxury fashion consumption Journal of Product & Brand Management
Pradeep Kautish, Arpita Khare and Rajesh Sharma

continuous double-digit growth in the global luxury brands and flexible connotation of the consumer value disposition
sector (Deloitte, 2018). Economic liberalization in the early 90s (Gallarza et al., 2011; Kautish and Sharma, 2018). Two of the
has been instrumental in the rapid growth of Indian economy prominent perspectives are the attribution mediation and the
(Paul and Mas, 2016), and values of Indian consumers have product meaning approach proposed by Allen (2000) and were
evolved and undergone a change because of exposure to global adapted from the terminal and instrumental value orientation
products (Parthasarathy et al., 2015; Rao, 2000; Sanyal et al., of the seminal work of Rokeach (1973). The attribution
2014) and have impacted consumption decisions. Luxury mediation approach argued that values do not influence
products have always been popular among Indians and product or brand preference directly, and instead influence the
symbolized power and status (Eng and Bogaert, 2010). Indian importance of product attributes that, in turn, guide product
culture and tradition have given importance to consumption of evaluation and brand purchase (Allen, 2000; Pitts and
luxury and display of wealth in social functions. The desire to Woodside, 1983).
exhibit affluence, status and wealth has led upper middle class Marketing researchers have paid little attention to the
to aspire to buy luxury brands (Jain et al., 2017; Schultz and influence of human value orientation on brand consciousness
Jain, 2018). and behavioral intentions for luxury fashion consumption. The
Western countries have exhibited steady growth in branded current research is an attempt to integrate and contrast two
luxury consumption over time; emerging countries have fallen diverse streams of human value framework proposed by
rapidly and deeply in love with luxury (Chadha and Husband, Rokeach (1973) by redefining them in the context of luxury
2006; Kapferer, 2016) . World over, in the 18th century, luxury brands. These insights would help in reinterpreting values on
was the exclusive prerogative of aristocrats; however, with the its consequent internal (i.e. fashion awareness, attitude and
end of the aristocracy, the role of luxury has changed, such that satisfaction) and external responses (e.g. purchase intentions,
whereas once it signaled the social hierarchy, it now creates the word-of-mouth and re-patronage). The study attempts to
hierarchy (Kapferer and Bastien, 2012). Thus, luxury brands examine the relationship between consumers’ human value
can no longer compete on “quality” and need to add latent orientation, brand consciousness and behavioral intentions for
social hierarchy or symbolic capital (Kapferer, 2016). The fashion apparel. The objectives of the study are as follows:
difference is not in the product anymore but in the ability of
to operationalize terminal and instrumental values relating
luxury to trigger appropriate certifications that serve as to luxury fashion apparel and understand their
gatekeepers in postmodern societies (Truong et al., 2009). relationship with intention to buy luxury fashion brands in
Hence, the high price is not good enough to define a product as an EM; and
a luxury, especially if it is not endowed with blessings of the
to examine the relative importance of terminal and
right brand (Kapferer et al., 2014). instrumental values in predicting brand consciousness and
In India, nawabs and kings in the past have used luxury purchase behavior of luxury fashion apparel.
products to exhibit their status, prosperity and power. In recent
years, luxury brands are purchased by the wealthy upper class
as it reflected social class and affluence. Moreover, the
2. Theoretical framework
affordable luxury segment is growing in India at the rate of over According to the symbolic self-completion theory (Wicklund
40% per annum, outpacing the rest of the segments (Mishra and Gollwitzer, 1981), the individuals use material possessions
and Jain, 2018). The research focused on factors such as and other indicators as socially familiar symbols to
growing middle class (Kant et al., 2018), a greater appreciation communicate their identities to others. Braun and Wicklund
for a luxurious lifestyle (Sharda and Bhat, 2019), increased (1989) defined a symbol as:
awareness about fashion trends (Roy et al., 2018), higher any facet of the person that has the potential of representing a unique signal
disposable income across middle and upper middle classes to others (who recognize the symbol as related to the identity) that one
(Business Standard, 2018) and aspirations toward Western possesses the identity in question’ (p. 164).
brands among young Indian consumers (Eng and Bogaert, The symbolic self-completion theory endorsed the notion that
2010; Gupta, 2011). This lifestyle-oriented young spendthrift consumers use branded products as a means to protect their
consumer base is progressively driving India to acquire a self-identity. Individuals evaluate brands on several attributes
prominent position in the branded luxury fashion industry such as quality and exclusiveness (Kirmani et al., 1999;
(Das, 2015; Gupta, 2019; Roy et al., 2016). What might have Strizhakova et al., 2011), style and self-expression (Vigneron
been described as superfluous luxury consumption in the past has and Johnson, 2004; CasidyMulyanegara and Tsarenko, 2009;
become a seeming necessity for upper middle-class households C
at
alin and Andreea, 2014). In line with the self-completion
(Kapferer, 2016). Additionally, postliberalization global luxury theory, brands enable consumers’ social self-construal and
brands such as Mango, Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Calvin Klein exhibiting affiliation to a group (McAlxander et al., 2002;
have become popular among Indians (Bhardwaj et al., 2010; Bagozzi and Dholakia, 2006). High brand-conscious
Mukherjee et al., 2012) and are being used to represent affluence consumers may buy expensive brands and remain brand loyal
and global lifestyle (Handa and Khare, 2013). not only because of value perceptions per se but also because
Consumer purchase decisions are influenced by personal and other consumers perceive them as socially valued or admired
social values (Kahle and Xie, 2008; Weidmann et al., 2012). because of the high price (Bao and Mandrik, 2004). The
Extant research on consumer value focusses on the relationship current study examined the influence of consumer values in
between price and quality (Gallarza et al., 2011), benefits conceptualizing fashion apparel brands and, consequently, its
encompassing cognitive and affective nature of values impact on brand consciousness and intention to buy branded
(Lloyd and Luk, 2010) and specifying the need for a dynamic fashion apparel.
 Predicting luxury fashion consumption Journal of Product & Brand Management
Pradeep Kautish, Arpita Khare and Rajesh Sharma

3. Review of literature ones in the EMs in comparison to mature markets. The value
orientation functions as a distinct attribute providing the EM
3.1 Luxury conceptualization
consumers with an opportunity to showcase their aspiration
Luxury branding as a concept is debatable and subjective
toward premium market offerings as these products play a vital
(Kapferer, 2016, p. 475) and should not be confused with a
role in shaping consumers’ self-concepts (Chadha and
premium or fashion strategy (Kapferer and Bastien, 2012).
Husband, 2006; Nabi et al., 2019). Roy et al. (2019) argued the
Hitherto customarily, the luxury brands have attributes such as
influence of ancient Indian spiritual values and religion in
history, excellence, being handmade, uniqueness, high quality,
predicting purchase decisions. The concept of “karma”
aesthetics, craftsmanship, rarity, functional utility and
legitimizes materialism as it is viewed in the context of one’s past
emotional appeal, and represent a creatively unique global
deeds and the outcome of previous lives. Luxury consumption is
lifestyle (Brun and Castelli, 2013; Kapferer and Valette-
justified as it is related to “good deeds” (White et al., 2017;
Florence, 2016). Luxury focuses on catering to everyone, Minton et al., 2016). The social norms and cues trigger the need
without seemingly catering to everyone (Han et al., 2010; for luxury brands as it symbolizes happiness, security and well-
Kapferer, 2012). Luxury brands are more than just the being and consumers can enhance their social status through
attribution-orientated possessions in terms of integrated luxury brands (Kautish et al., 2020; Schultz and Jain, 2018).
constituents, e.g. objective (material), subjective (individual)
and collective (social) dispositions (Berthon et al., 2009;
3.3 Value conceptualization
Kapferer and Bastien, 2009). Collectivist and individualistic
Values have been identified as a prominent force in guiding
cultures differ in their conceptualization of luxury products. In
individual behavior in all walks of life (Rokeach, 1968).
individualistic cultures, luxury products are purchased to Historically, the concept of “value” has evidenced to be a
express one’s uniqueness (Clark et al., 2006; Han et al., 2010), tenacious endeavor for a wide range of researchers in marketing
whereas in individualistic cultures, luxury consumption is (Clawson and Vinson, 1978; Scott and Lamont, 1973; Vinson
associated with status and communicating social position (Li et al., 1977). Values are enduring beliefs that one specific
and Su, 2007; Handa and Khare, 2013; Pino et al., 2019). mode of behavior for one individual is preferable over an
Kapferer (2015), in research on mature and EMs, posited that alternative manner of conduct (Rokeach, 1979). Pitts and
out of a list of ten traits, four were more critical for defining Woodside (1983) revealed that consumer value structures
luxury (p. 11). Recent research in marketing moves away from referred to the prominent choice criteria for product categories
identifying the traits that structure consumers’ perceptions of and brands. One research area of enduring interest is how the
luxury and explores the nature of the value created by luxury. consumers’ choice of brands may get influenced by the human
Wiedmann et al. (2012) proposed an integrated, tripartite and values they support and in cultural congruity milieu (Solomon,
multidimensional model distinguishing functional (i.e. utility), 1999; Torelli et al., 2012). Value determination facilitates
individual (i.e. self-identity, materialism) and social (i.e. product acquisition and customer retention, and is crucial in
conspicuousness) values. For new generations and in emerging EMs (Pare and Pourazad, 2017; Roberts, 2000; Vriens and
countries, luxury is what the brands are found on the luxury Hofstede, 2000). Several scholars have discussed value
floors of departmental stores or luxury commercial centers dimensions of consumption behavior in varied contexts and
(Kapferer, 2016, p. 480). recognized the potential significance of personal values
(Grunert and Scherhorn, 1990; Kautish and Sharma, 2018;
3.2 Luxury consumption in emerging market Kim et al., 2002; Roy and Goswami, 2007).
Rising consumerism in India has led to the increased popularity Zeithaml (1988) advocates that the process of evaluating a
of luxury brands. In developed countries, people care less about product involves a four-level means-end chain approach (Olson
others’ opinions and consume luxury products for personal and Reynolds, 1983). At the lowest level, the consumer’s focus
gratification (Cheah et al., 2015) and luxury consumption is is on the product characteristics, concrete product attributes or
defined by group identity and affluence (Heany et al., 2005; functional benefits. At the second level, the attention is on the
Shukla and Purani, 2012; Pino et al., 2019; Siahtiri and Lee, quality of the product relative to one’s expectations of it. The
2019). In EMs such as India, luxury brands are viewed as third level relates to the consumer’s assessment of the benefits
products that elevate one’s social position and distinguish them and costs of the product, that is, product value. At the fourth
from the crowd (Ramchandani and Coste-Manière, 2012). and highest level, the consumer evaluates the extent to which
Luxury brands’ market growth comes primarily from the newly the product reflects or matches the consumer’s values. As such,
rich, especially those in emerging economies who have higher product offerings that are congruent with a consumer’s
disposable incomes (Kapferer, 2017). Indian consumers prefer personal values are adopted, while those that are not are
luxury brands for value connotations that bestow self- rejected. In this sense, consumers achieve their personal values
expressive and status benefits (Ajitha and Sivakumar, 2017). through the products they acquire or consume (Kahle and Xie,
Sinha and Sheth (2018) proposed eight marketing strategies for 2008), and thus, personal values become a powerful
EMs, i.e. affordability through democratizing and upscaling the mechanism for understanding and reaching consumers (Allen,
offer; accessibility through managing and reinventing reach; 2001; Durgee et al., 1996). These interpretations are similar to
acceptability through cultural and functional fusion; and the general perspectives on the brands’ benefits for consumers
awareness through building brand identity and engaging in terms of the values and meanings that consumers attach to
stakeholders. Pinoet al. (2019) emphasized that consumers the brand’s product attributes, i.e. functional, symbolic or
with a higher status consumption predisposition are more experiential consumption values (Ajitha and Sivakumar, 2017;
willing to purchase branded luxury goods than subtly branded Richins, 1994).
 Predicting luxury fashion consumption Journal of Product & Brand Management
Pradeep Kautish, Arpita Khare and Rajesh Sharma

3.4 Terminal and instrumental values level), to domain-specific values and, finally, to the specific
Milton Rokeach (1973, p. 5) conceptualized values as product attributes (the lowest abstract level). Though values in
“enduring beliefs that a particular mode of behavior is consumer behavior have been researched (Manchiraju and
preferable to opposite modes of behavior or end states.” Values Sadachar, 2014), nonetheless, in the context of fashion
can be understood as enduring constructs that guide behavior consumption, research on the influence of values has been
(Rokeach, 1973; Corfman et al., 1991) and help individuals to scanty (Maio, 2017). The study drew from earlier research on
adjust to the environment. Terminal values are an expression of values and adapted Rokeach’s (1973) instrumental and
individual views and constitute end-states toward which one terminal value in describing consumers’ brand consciousness
strives. Instrumental values are an expression of competence for luxury fashion apparel in an EM. The study assumed that
and guide the selection of means to be used to obtain the end values play an integral role in self-construal, social adaptation
states of existence (Rokeach, 1973, pp. 8–9). Rokeach (1973) and conformity as they guide behavior and product evaluations.
posited that the functional approach to attitudes was pertinent Thus, brand preferences, evaluations and need to exhibit a
to human values, which serve value-expressive, instrumental, greater understanding of brands would be aligned to
knowledge and social-adjustive psychological functions. Two individuals’ value systems and motives.
primary functions of values can be identified in the
psychological literature: values guide actions (Rokeach, 1973) 3.5 Values, brand consciousness and behavioral intentions
and cognitive expressions of needs (Inglehart, 1977). Feather Brand consciousness is a customers’ personality trait that
(1973) investigated the effects of order of presentation of the denotes the mental orientation to select products that are well
value sets (terminal/instrumental versus instrumental/ known, well established and highly advertised brand names in
terminal), and results indicated that assessment procedure per the market (Nelson and McLeod, 2005; Sproles and Kendall,
se had little effect on the average value system. Feather and 1986; Zhang and Kim, 2013). Consumers with high brand
Peay (1975) reported that when the intercorrelation matrices consciousness perceive brands as a symbol of prestige and
involving the entire set of 36 terminal and instrumental values status (Escalas and Bettman, 2005; Liao and Wang, 2009).
were factor-analyzed, fewer dimensions emerged, and there The brands have several connotations for consumers. Brands
was little evidence of distinctive clumping of values along a enable social identification and strengthen consumers’ group
dimension. Hence, it was difficult to isolate representative associations and social conformity (Ouwersloot and
subgroups of values. Central to Rokeach’s (1973) study of Odekerken-Schröder, 2008). Thus, brands help individuals
values is the assumption that value systems can be divided into gain acceptance in society, enhance their self-image and bestow
meaningful categories labeled as terminal and instrumental, status as an influential member of the group. The social identity
but Heath (1976) defied the viability of a universal separation of theory suggests that consumers’ purchase, acquisition and use
values into these two categories and added that: “how a person of brands are motivated by the desire to belong to social groups
separates values into instrumental and terminal reflects his own (Muniz and O’Guinn, 2001; Algesheimer et al., 2005; Yi-
value structure” (p. 330). Basic to the criticism is the assumption CheonYim et al., 2014). Brands enable individuals to reduce
that values are situationally sensitive and that whether they are not only the risk accompanying the purchase but also help them
terminal or instrumental depends upon salient characteristics of to be a part of the social circle by giving them a unique social
the specific situation (Heath, 1976; Heath and Fogel, 1978; identity (Algesheimer et al., 2005). Bian and Forsythe (2012),
Rankin and Grube, 1980). In response to the criticism, Rokeach in their study on US and Chinese consumers, found that self-
(1979) reiterated the “conceptual distinctiveness” of the two monitoring function influences social function attitudes. Social
categories and suggested that each plays a distinct role in function attitudes helped in the affective evaluation of brands.
individual lives, and he acknowledged that: Similarly, Park et al. (2007) found that luxury brands were used
considerably more research is needed [. . .. . .] to clarify further the relation by Korean consumers to exhibit success, social status and
between the terminal and instrumental values and the various social prosperity. Luxury fashion brand represents self-image
conditions under which one or the other set will be more important (p. 326).
enhancement for consumers and motivates toward luxury
Typically, values are arranged in a hierarchical order and use consumption to impress others through a favorable display of
social norms to adapt to new situations (Rokeach, 1973) and social image and achievements (Phau and Prendergast, 2000; Liu
determine consumers’ satisfaction with products and services et al., 2012). Past studies have confirmed that consumers with
(Rosen and Surprenant, 1998; Fournier and Mick, 1999; high brand consciousness place significant effort into value
Bloemer and Dekker, 2007). Smith and Schwartz (1997) changes for fashion brand attributes (Grant and Stephen, 2005).
explained values as beliefs that influence goals and guide The consumers buy well-known expensive brands because
individuals in selecting and evaluating appropriate behavior, they perceive expensive brands to be of superior quality (Keller,
people and events. Values are consumers’ beliefs concerning 1993). Functional and symbolic values associated with luxury
desirable behavioral end-states, and get organized around needs, brands are considered as a prime motivation for purchase
motives and attitudes (Kahle et al., 1986; Easterlin and behavior (Giovannini et al., 2015; Hassan et al., 2015) owing to
Crimmins, 1991). Thus, it supports social adaptation theory that diverse explanations in terms of high price, quality, rarity,
states values as social cognition, enabling social adjustment. experience, exclusivity, heritage and history (Esmaeilpour,
Rokeach (1979) advocated that personal values are 2015; Kapferer and Valette-Florence, 2016; Parrott et al.,
responsible for the selection and maintenance of the ends or 2015). In the Indian market, after economic liberalization, the
goals toward which human beings strive and regulate the means middle-class and upper middle-class consumers perceived the
in which this striving takes place. They propose a hierarchical foreign brands as rare, exotic and superior (Bullis, 1997).
link, starting from global personal values (the highest abstract Economic, cultural and social changes brought several changes
 Predicting luxury fashion consumption Journal of Product & Brand Management
Pradeep Kautish, Arpita Khare and Rajesh Sharma

in Indian consumers’ preferences for branded products. These consumption. The findings of the study suggested that
changes in value systems have led to the reinterpretation of consumers relate to the firm offerings in two distinctive manners.
brands and their role in enhancing value (Parthasarathy et al., First, the products’ intrinsic qualities or features (viz., a means to
2015; Rao, 2000). Indian consumers have grown brand- an end in the form of their capability to normalize functionality to
conscious and purchased brands that helped them in expressing the surroundings), and, second, how the goods reflect self-
their distinct identity (Lysonski and Durvasula, 2013; Sanyal expression and/or self-consistency desires (Allen, 2002; Perkins
et al., 2014; Saran et al., 2016). The fashion retailers want to and Reynolds, 1988). Values were interpreted as explaining an
expand in the fast-EMs (Li et al., 2012; Liu et al., 2016), and individual’s aspirations and motives. Thus, product purchase
India presents several opportunities (Kumar et al., 2009; decisions were guided by one’s view toward life and seeking goals
Shukla, 2010). However, there is little research on that enable fulfillment. These demarcate the terminal and
understanding value-oriented approaches to cater to the luxury instrumental characteristics of the values and affect the product-
brand market (Choo et al., 2012; Jain et al., 2015, 2017; Jain meaning interpretations, intentions to buy, intended value and
and Khan, 2017; Roy et al., 2018; Tynan et al., 2010). the consumers’ decision-making style (Allen and Ng, 1999;
Research has analyzed and validated the relationship among Kassim et al., 2016). The aspirations or motives could be viewed
values, branding paradigm and behavioral intentions in as excitement, pleasure, happiness, comfort or demonstrating
retailing contexts including fashion buying, e.g. perceived success, happiness and fulfillment. These could connote different
shopping value, i.e. achievement (Babin and Babin, 2001; desired end-states for consumers and help in guiding behavior.
Carpenter and Fairhurst, 2005), fashion clothing magnitudes, Hence, the following hypotheses are proposed:
i.e. happiness (Goldsmith, 2000), values of fashion innovators,
i.e. imaginative (Goldsmith and Stith, 1990), the effect of H2a: Terminal values (i.e. happiness, sense of
quality, value and customer satisfaction, i.e. logical and accomplishment, an exciting life, pleasure, a
accomplishment (Cronin et al., 2000), buyers’ perceptions of comfortable life) would positively influence behavioral
acquisition value, transaction value and behavioral intentions, intentions for branded luxury fashion apparel.
i.e. comfort, cheerfulness and excitement (Grewal et al., 1998)
and the role of perceived risk in the quality–value relationship in H2b: Instrumental values (i.e. loving, cheerful, ambitious,
the retail environment (Dodds, 1991). Thus, drawing from logical, imaginative) would positively influence
earlier research on brands and consumer values, it was assumed behavioral intentions for branded luxury fashion apparel.
that redefining terminal and instrumental values in the context H3: Brand consciousness would positively influence
of brand consciousness would help in understanding consumers’ behavioral intentions for branded luxury
consumers’ brand orientations concerning luxury fashion fashion apparel.
brands. Thus, the following hypotheses were proposed:
Thus, consumer value orientation influences brand
H1a: Terminal values (i.e. happiness, sense of accomplishment, consciousness, purchase intention and evaluation of brands.
an exciting life, pleasure, a comfortable life) related to The study further proposes the subsequent hypotheses (shown
luxury brands would positively influence brand
in Figure 1). Drawing from Sharda and Bhat’s recent study
consciousness for luxury fashion apparel.
(2019), brand consciousness has been categorized as the
H1b: Instrumental values (i.e. loving, cheerful, ambitious, mediating variable, and the following hypotheses are proposed:
logical, imaginative) related to luxury brands would
positively influence brand consciousness for luxury
H4: Brand consciousness would mediate the relationship
fashion apparel.
between instrumental values (i.e. loving, cheerful,
Consumption-based orientation is usually labeled as ambitious, logical, imaginative) and behavior intentions
“materialism.” It suggests the degree of consumer attachment for branded luxury fashion apparel.
to worldly possessions and its ability to provide satisfaction or
H5: Brand consciousness would mediate the relationship
dissatisfaction (Handa and Khare, 2013). Research has focused
between terminal values (i.e. happiness, sense of
on the shopping value connotations, i.e. the means-end theory
accomplishment, an exciting life, pleasure, a comfortable life)
of lifestyle (Brunsø et al., 2004), which characterized task-
and behavior intentions for branded luxury fashion apparel.
dependent and rational approaches toward consumer behavior
(Babin et al., 1994; Roy and Goswami, 2007). Allen (2002)
and Allen et al. (2002) posited that the consumers’ behavior
4. Methodology
and philosophies toward the terminal and instrumental values
reflect value–attitude–behavior system. Shukla and Purani The hypothesized research model showing the relationships
(2012) compared the luxury value perceptions among British among the variables is shown in Figure 1. The influence of the
and Indian consumers concerning collectivist and terminal/instrumental values on brand consciousness and
individualistic cultural orientation. Kastanakis and Balabanis behavioral intentions was studied using a cross-sectional survey
(2012) studied the relationship between interdependent self- method. The construct operationalization and measures,
concept and bandwagon consumption mediated by the level of sampling procedure, sampling design, sample profile, data
a consumer’s status-seeking predispositions, susceptibility to collection method, data screening and refinement procedure
normative influence, need for uniqueness and consumers’ and common method variance are discussed in the succeeding
propensity to engage in the “bandwagon” type of luxury sections.
 Predicting luxury fashion consumption Journal of Product & Brand Management
Pradeep Kautish, Arpita Khare and Rajesh Sharma

Figure 1 Hypothesized model

Terminal
Value
H1a H2a

Brand Behavioral
Consciousness H3
Intentions

H 1b H2b
Instrumental
Value

4.1 Measures and construct operationalization statistics analysis was considered to perform principal
As a methodological norm to measure the latent constructs, components analysis, and the measure of sampling adequacy
questionnaire items were adapted from past studies (Westland, (Kaiser–Meyer–Olkin) revealed a value of 0.890, which is
2007). The survey instrument was designed in line with the sufficient for advanced data analysis (Hair et al., 2006).
constructs defined and to facilitate a better understanding of Therefore, the statistical results, both before and after data
luxury fashion apparel. The dimensionality and reliability of the collection, denote adequate data to proceed to run the PLS-
constructs were pretested on a sample of 30 participants chosen SEM analysis.
from a postgraduate fashion merchandising management class,
and on their suggestion, one qualifying question was asked in 4.3 Sampling procedure and sample profile
the beginning of the questionnaire. The data collected for To examine the measurement and structural model
pretesting was not used in the final analyses. Preliminary relationship, the hypothesized model was validated by selecting
investigations were undertaken to test the psychometric a natural field research approach (Barratt et al., 2015). This
properties of the scale items, and few modifications were made research approach has the advantage of explaining sufficient
in the items to establish the construct validity in the subsequent variance across the constructs/variables that are vital to test the
analysis phases. The details about the final scale items are given conceptual model. Snowball sampling was used for
in Table 2. The constructs were measured with the help of data collection. A total of 680 online questionnaires were
multi-item scale containing terminal and instrumental values administered among the consumers with the help of two multi-
(adapted from Allen et al., 2002; Beatty et al., 1985; Kamakura brand outlets’ databases that operate in three private
and Mazzon, 1991; Kautish and Sharma, 2018), brand universities campuses located in the north-western part of the
consciousness (Nelson and McLeod, 2005; Spears and Singh, country. Student samples were used because they are among
2004; Sproles and Kendall, 1986) and behavioral intentions the most active shoppers for fashion apparel (Goldsmith et al.,
(Grewal et al., 1998; Kim and Kim, 2004). Few adaptations 2012; Kinley et al., 2010; O’Cass and Siahtiri, 2014). Because
were inevitable to ensure the significance and relevance of the the research aims to understand the behavioral intents of the
items to luxury fashion consumption context, particularly in young fashion shoppers, the current study used convenience
case of scale items for terminal and instrumental values sampling to collect the primary data which is in line with the
(Munson and McQuarrie, 1988). The survey questionnaire past research studies conducted on the theme in the context of
was reviewed by one fashion merchandizing and two marketing emerging as well as developed markets (Park and Sullivan,
professors. On their recommendations, few minor language 2009; Srivastava and Balaji, 2018).
modifications were done to clarify the meaning of luxury A total of 475 online questionnaires were received, out of
fashion apparel. The respondents were requested to provide a which 24 sets of questionnaires were not filled out completely
rating on 19 questions with a seven-point Likert-type scale (7 = and another 41 contained technical errors, and they were
extremely agree, 1 = extremely disagree). removed from the data set. Thus, the total sample size of the
study was 410 (69.85% response rate). Table 1 shows the
4.2 Sample size adequacy demographic profile of the respondents . An above 50% response
The statistical method was used before and after the data rate is considered to be valid and acceptable to assess the
collection to ascertain the sample size adequacy for a variance- nonresponse bias in survey-based research (Menachemi, 2010;
based or partial least squares structural equation modeling Nulty, 2008). Subsequently, the two-step statistical procedures
(PLS-SEM) path modeling. Before the data collection, “a- were performed (Armstrong and Overton, 1977). In the first
priori sample size calculator for structural equation models” step, the nonsignificant difference of the t-test of gender group,
was used. The required total number of responses for the age group, educational background, occupation and family
model structure is found to be adequate for SEM with 4 latent denoted that there is no bias among the distribution of groups. In
variables, 19 observed variables and the anticipated effect size the second step, applying the rules of the continuum of resistance
(0.30), desired probability (0.05) and statistical power levels theory, a wave analysis was performed (Lin and Schaeffer, 1995).
(0.80); the result indicates that 137 responses are required as Hence, it was concluded that responses received were not
the minimum sample size to detect the effect (Soper, 2018; significantly different from those who did not respond, and
Westland, 2010). After the data collection, exploratory nonresponse bias was not a risk in the study.
 Predicting luxury fashion consumption Journal of Product & Brand Management
Pradeep Kautish, Arpita Khare and Rajesh Sharma

Table 1 Profile of the respondents (N = 410) x 2 statistic was executed, and it was found that missing data
were entirely at random, and EMA imputed the missing values.
Criteria Frequency (%)
Gender 4.6 Common method variance
Female 228 55.6 Common method variance (CMV) is a matter of caution in
Male 182 44.4 self-report questionnaires and cross-sectional quantitative
Age (in years) studies (Lindell, 2001), which may jeopardize the validity of the
16–18 55 13.4 results in terms of construct relationship findings (Reio, 2010).
19–21 134 32.7 CMV occurs because of the data collection from “same-source
22–24 221 53.9 data” or “single survey method” in behavioral researches
(Podsakoff et al., 2003). According to MacKinzie and
Education Podsakoff (2012), CMV may add to the co-variation between
High school 26 6.34 constructs and the items reliabilities that affect structural
Diploma 92 22.44 relationships (Kline et al., 2000). Reio (2010) presented two
Graduate 244 59.51 techniques to decrease the likelihood of CMV, namely,
Postgraduate 48 11.71 statistical control and procedural design. On Podsakoff et al.’s
Occupation (2003) recommendation, first, at the designing phase of the
Students 261 63.7 survey instrument, the acquiescence biases, e.g. “yea-saying or
Service 69 16.8 nay-saying,” item priming effects, scale length, common rate
Business 80 19.5 effects, common scale anchors, common scale formats and
item characteristic effects were prohibited (Fuller et al., 2016).
Family income level (monthly) Second, at the data analysis phase, CMV was verified using
INR below 50,000 126 30.7 three statistical tests, e.g. Harman’s one-factor test, and in the
INR above 50,000 284 69.3 partial correlation procedures, the marker variable and
Note: INR = Indian national rupee the structural model techniques were undertaken. For all the
extracted measurement items, four factors explained nearly
70% of the total variance, and the first factor explained only
4.4 Data collection method 32% of the total variance. Therefore, the statistical results
A judicious mix of the online and offline survey was used emerging from these techniques reveal that CMV was not a
to collect the data. The offline survey was used for pretest problem in the present study (Podsakoff et al., 2003).
data to receive instant feedback, query resolution and
first-hand responses from the participants to improve the
5. Results
quality of the questionnaire. The online survey was
administered using a standard template on a survey- SEM is used to simultaneously assess the interrelated
enabled website. Besides, the questionnaire contained dependent variable relationships between constructs, which is
close-ended questions to avoid ambiguity. The survey not possible with other multivariate techniques (Hair et al.,
questionnaire was distributed in the months of March– 2012). The theorized model was subject to a partial least square
June 2019, where 475 respondents contributed and fully (PLS) path modeling, which is called a variance-based and
completed the responses. In total, 410 responses were prediction-oriented SEM (Chin, 1998; Hair et al., 2014a).
deemed fit to be included in the final data analysis. From Owing to the robustness and less restraining on data
the data collected, it was observed that women were the distribution and sample size, PLS was used (Hair et al., 2014b)
principal buyers of luxury fashion brands, which are in to analyze the data with SmartPLS (v.3.0). Subsequently, as
line with the data collected from past researches (Hung recommended by Anderson and Gerbing (1988), the
et al., 2011; Park et al., 2007; Zhan and He, 2012). measurement and structural model were tested for a two-step
analytical procedure (Hair et al., 2014b).
4.5 Data screening and refinement
Before conducting advanced data analyses, the data set was 5.1 Measurement model
screened using SPSS (v. 20) with the help of Mahalanobis Subsequently, the reliability and validity were assessed. The
distance criterion (Mahalanobis’s D (20) > 43.85 on p < 0.001) reliability was established based on factor loading and
and five multivariate outliers were detected in the screening composite reliability (CR; Chin, 2010). The validity of the
process. The hypotheses assessments indicated that a trivial measurement model was determined based on convergent
number of variables were negatively skewed. Consequently, in validity and discriminant validity (Hair et al., 2014a, 2014b).
the refinement process, these variables were changed using a The convergent validity was ascertained by observing the
square root transformation to reduce the skewness and average variance extracted (AVE) and the CR (Ringle et al.,
ensuring normality in the data set (Kenny and McCoach, 2012). Table 2 presents the scale items in the constructs along
2003). Also, to effectively ratify the missing values of the with factor loadings, Cronbach’s alpha, CR and AVE values for
questionnaire (a measurement of latent constructs) and missing the same. In the current study, factor loading for all measures
data from the online survey template, the expectation- and CR for all constructs exceeded the threshold values, as
maximization algorithm (EMA) was conducted using SPSS factor loading >0.50 and CR > 0.70 (Hair et al., 2014b), which
(Little, 1988). Little’s (1988) Missing Completely at Random fulfills the reliability of the measurement model (Anderson and
 Predicting luxury fashion consumption Journal of Product & Brand Management
Pradeep Kautish, Arpita Khare and Rajesh Sharma

Table 2 Descriptive statistics and other measurement estimates

S.No. Constructs and scale items Mean SD Loading
Terminal value (TV)
(a = 0.794; CR = 0.787; AVE = 0.618; MSV = 3.43; ASV = 0.250; rho_A = 0.902)
1. Luxury fashion apparel purchase makes me feel good for my life (TV1) 4.26 1.24 0.751
2. Luxury fashion apparel purchase is easy, comfortable and suits to my style (TV2) 5.42 1.05 0.765
3. For me, luxury fashion apparels are always pleasant and satisfactory (TV3) 4.96 1.14 0.697
4. Luxury fashion apparel purchases makes me happy for myself (TV4) 4.15 1.24 0.672
5. Though the price of luxury fashion apparels are higher still I like to have it for myself (TV5) 5.44 1.27 0.743
Instrumental value (IV)
(a = 0.768; CR = 0.756; AVE = 0.548; MSV = 0.465; ASV = 0.272; rho_A = 0.924)
6. For me, luxury fashion apparels are always a pragmatic option to purchase (IV1) 5.23 1.03 0.788
7. For me, luxury fashion apparels are always logical and reasonable (IV2) 4.74 1.13 0.882
8. For me, luxury fashion apparels are not a waste of money (IV3) 2.86 1.35 0.796
9. For me, luxury fashion apparels are convenient to fit and good in appearance (IV4) 5.74 1.07 0.734
10. For me, luxury fashion apparels quality is always very good to wear and style (IV5) 4.92 1.14 0.727
Brand consciousness (BC)
(a = 0.872; CR = 0.893; AVE = 0.716; MSV = 0.459; ASV = 0.193; rho_A = 0.905)
11. I pay attention to the brand names of the luxury fashion apparels I buy (BC1) 5.41 1.02 0.862
12. Brand names tell me something about the quality of the luxury fashion apparel (BC2) 5.66 1.07 0.825
13. Brand names tell me something about how “cool” an item of luxury fashion apparel is (BC3) 5.32 1.21 0.817
14. Sometimes I am willing to pay more money for luxury fashion apparels because of its brand name (BC4) 5.27 1.13 0.793
15. Branded luxury fashion apparels that cost a lot of money are good quality (BC5) 5.25 1.11 0.787
16. I pay attention to the brand names of most of the luxury fashion apparels I buy (BC6) 5.18 1.14 0.816
Behavioral intentions (BI)
(a = 0.903; CR = 0.931; AVE = 0.784; MSV = 0.480; ASV = 0.275; rho_A = 0.913)
17. I would like to continue purchasing luxury fashion apparels in the future as well (BI1) 5.84 1.17 0.886
18. I would recommend the luxury fashion apparels to my friends and/or others (BI2) 5.85 1.15 0.764
19. I would like to increase purchase/use of luxury fashion apparels for me (BI3) 5.23 1.18 0.818
Notes: SD = standard deviation; a = Cronbach’s alpha; CR = composite reliability; AVE = average variance extracted; MSV = maximum shared squared
variance; ASV = average shared squared variance; rho_A = reliability coefficient

Gerbing, 1988). The scale items ensured the internal correlations in the construct correlation matrix, indicating
homogeneity and dimensionality. Table 2 shows the reliability adequate discriminant validity for all the reflective constructs.
coefficient (Cronbach’s a) values: the terminal value of 0.794; The discriminant validity was calculated with the Heterotrait–
the instrumental value of 0.768; brand consciousness of 0.872; Monotrait (HTMT) ratio that has a higher precision in
and behavioral intentions of 0.903; because all the Cronbach’s detecting validity issues in variance-based SEM (Henseler
alpha values were above the threshold value of 0.70, it specified et al., 2015). All values of the HTMT were below the
the internal consistency of the scale items (Nunnally and recommended threshold value of 0.90 (see Table 4), signifying
Bernstein, 1994). The convergent validity was confirmed by a valid relationship between indicators and constructs
the AVE value of more than 0.50, and CR value was more than (Henseler et al., 2015). HTMT exemplifies the ratio of within-
AVE (Ringle et al., 2012). As recommended in other studies, construct correlations to the between-construct correlations
the AVE values, maximum shared squared variance (MSV) and (Henseler et al., 2015).
average shared squared variance (ASV) were used to measure The assessment of discriminant validity using HTMT can be
the discriminant validity (Hair et al., 2006). Table 2 exhibits accomplished in two ways: as a criterion and as a statistical test.
that the MSV and ASV values were less than the AVE values. As a criterion, HTMT values need to be less than 0.85 for
The results indicate that different constructs do not correlate constructs that are conceptually different. In addition, a value
highly with each other and confirm the discriminant validity. of 0.90 for constructs that are conceptually similar is required
The square root of each AVE is shown in Table 3 (shown on for it (Henseler et al., 2015). The statistical criteria involved
the diagonal) is higher than the related inter-construct testing the null hypothesis (H0: HTMT ⩾ 1) against the

Table 3 Fornell–Larcker discriminant validity criteria

Measure Terminal values Instrumental values Brand consciousness Behavioral intentions
Terminal values 0.723
Instrumental values 0.509 0.949
Brand consciousness 0.448 0.591 0.955
Behavioral intentions 0.526 0.735 0.586 0.964
 Predicting luxury fashion consumption Journal of Product & Brand Management
Pradeep Kautish, Arpita Khare and Rajesh Sharma

Table 4 HTMT discriminant validity criterion

Constructs Terminal values Instrumental values Brand consciousness Behavioral intentions
Terminal values
Instrumental values 0.568
CI90 (0.549, 97.5%)
Brand consciousness 0.495 0.663
CI90 (0.387, 0.975) CI90 (0.577, 0.851)
Behavioral intentions 0.576 0.764 0.635
CI90 (0.474, 0.923) CI90 (0.639, 0.827) CI90 (0.512, 0.813)

alternative hypothesis (H1: HTMT < 1), and to attain the 2014a, 2014b) and the Stone–Geisser’s (Q2) cross-validated
discriminant validity, confidence interval assumes were not to redundancy or predictive relevance (Geisser, 1975; Stone,
include the value of 1 (Henseler et al., 2015). None of the 1974). Conferring to Falk and Miller (1992), the R2 value
HTMT values exceeded the cutoff point of HTMT 0.90 and should be more than 0.10 to meet the minimum level of
HTMT 0.85 (see Table 4). The highest HTMT value in the explanatory power. A t-statistic was achieved through a
whole model was 0.764, and the HTMT inference also bootstrapping procedure with 5,000 resamples to evaluate
indicated that the confidence interval did not show a value of 1 the significance of path coefficients and their corresponding
for any of the constructs, which means that there is adequate t-values and to estimate the standard error in the model. The
discriminant validity throughout the model. Accordingly, the R2 values are listed in Table 5. The values of R2 are
measurement model grasped an adequate level in terms of considered as a weak, medium and substantial for the
reliability and validity. Henceforth, it is possible to move constructs in the structural model that are 0.25, 0.50 and
forward and evaluate the structural model. 0.75 (Hair et al., 2014a). The PLS-SEM model showing the
relationships among variables is illustrated in Figure 2.
5.2 Structural model The study suggested that the terminal ( b = 0.428; p <
To evaluate the significance of the path coefficients and the 0.01) and instrumental ( b = 0.543; p < 0.01) values were
loadings, a bootstrapping procedure with 5,000 sample was positively related to brand consciousness and both explained
used to generate the path coefficients and corresponding t- 58.7% of the variance in brand consciousness. The results
values to decide the path significance (Hair et al., 2014b; provided support for H1a and H1b. Subsequently, the
Kautish and Sharma, 2019). Following Henseleret al.’s predictors of behavioral intentions in terms of terminal
(2015) recommendations, the approximate model fit value, instrumental value and brand consciousness were
criterion, the standardized mean square residual (SRMR), analyzed. The terminal value ( b = 0.384; p< 0.01),
was calculated for the model. SRMR value of 0.05 was much instrumental value ( b = 0.470; p < 0.01) and brand
lower than 0.08, specifying an acceptable PLS path model consciousness ( b = 0.374; p< 0.01) were positively related
fit. The structural model examines the relationships in terms to behavioral intentions. Three of them explained 66.5% of
of weights and magnitudes between endogenous and the variance in behavioral intentions. Consequently, H2a,
exogenous latent variables in the model (Hair et al., 2011). H2b and H3 were supported (see Table 5).
Figure 2 offers a graphical representation of the tested According to Hair et al. (2014a), the effect size (f 2) was
model. measured. The effect size refers to the significance of
The primary criteria to appraise the structural model are exogenous variables in explaining the variance in the
the values of path coefficient significance level ( b ), the endogenous construct, which is calculated using Cohen’s
coefficient of determination (R2), effect size (f2) (Hair et al., (1988) equation: f 2 = R 2 included  R2 excluded/1  R 2

Figure 2 Estimated structural model

Terminal
Value

Brand
Behavioral
Consciousness
β = 0.374** Intentions
R = 0.587
2
R2 = 0.665

Instrumental
Value

Note: **p < 0.01

 Predicting luxury fashion consumption Journal of Product & Brand Management
Pradeep Kautish, Arpita Khare and Rajesh Sharma

Table 5 Structural model assessment

BC 95% BC 95%
Hypothesized path Standard b Standard error t-Value LCL UCL Results R2 f2 Q2
H1a TV ! BC 0.428 0.04 3.91 0.44 0.62 Accepted 0.587 0.215
H1b IV ! BC 0.543 0.05 3.37 0.24 0.38 Accepted 0.428 0.286
H2a TV ! BI 0.384 0.03 3.94 0.32 0.56 Accepted 0.665 0.242
H2b IV ! BI 0.470 0.04 3.13 0.27 0.43 Accepted 0.310
H3 BC ! BI 0.374 0.06 12.15 0.25 0.34 Accepted 0.375 0.268
H4 IV ! BC ! BI 0.417 0.04 3.86 0.33 0.51 Accepted
H5 TV ! BC ! BI 0.326 0.05 3.40 0.28 0.35 Accepted

Notes: p < 0.01; TV = terminal value; IV = instrumental value; BC = brand consciousness; BI = behavioral intentions

included. As per Cohen (1988), the effect size values of Consequently, H4 and H5 are accepted, as brand consciousness
0.35, 0.15 and 0.02 suggest substantial, moderate and acts as a partial mediator between both the relationships. It is in
weak effects, respectively. In the study, as shown in Table tandem with evidence that increased luxury fashion awareness
5, instrumental value has a strong effect (f2 = 0.428) in and blend of Indian values with Western counterparts (Gupta,
explaining the variance in brand consciousness compared 2011; Shukla and Purani, 2012) have led to the acceptance of
to the terminal value (f2 = 0.215). Additionally, this study global brands among Indian consumers (Jain et al., 2017;
found that terminal value (f2 = 0.242), instrumental value Kautish and Rai, 2018a, 2018b).
(f 2 = 0.310) and brand consciousness (f 2 = 0.375) exert Also, the results show that the instrumental value effect on
strong effect on behavioral intentions. The predictive behavioral intentions decreases considerably (D = 349) from a
relevance of the model was assessed using the blindfolding significant relationship of 0.510 to a low, but are still significant
procedure suggested by Hair et al. (2014b), which omits at a level of 0.182. Simultaneously, a similar relation is found
every dth data point in the endogenous constructs’ for the terminal value direct effect on behavioral intentions,
indicators and evaluates the parameters with the residual which decreases considerably (D = 258) from a significant
data points (Tenenhaus et al., 2005). According to Fornell relationship of 0.455 to a significant level of 0.193 (see
and Cha (1994), the model got robust predictive relevance, Table 6). The variance accounted for (VAF) evaluates the
because the Q2 values for brand consciousness (Q 2 = strength of the mediation (Hair et al., 2014a). The VAF directs
0.286) and behavioral intentions (Q 2 = 0.268) are greater that brand consciousness is a mediator of both instrumental
than 0. value (0.689) and terminal value (0.576). Moreover, as the
direct effect (c 0 ) and indirect effect (a  b) point toward the
5.3 Mediating effect same positive direction, the model confirms the mediation
To test H4 and H5, which specified that brand consciousness (Zhao et al., 2010). Therefore, it is predicted that brand
would mediate the relationship between instrumental value and consciousness mediates the relation between instrumental
behavioral intentions (H4) and between terminal value and value and behavioral intentions, and between terminal value
behavioral intentions (H5), the Preacher and Hayes’ (2008) and behavioral intentions.
bootstrapping procedure with 5,000 resamples was used. The
significance of total, direct and indirect effects is confirmed
6. Discussion and conclusion
using a bootstrap procedure with 5,000 resamples. Table 6
displays that total, direct and indirect effects between The current study provides interesting insights regarding the
instrumental value and behavioral intentions and between changing nature of Indian values for the luxury fashion apparel
terminal value and behavioral intentions are significant. market. It posits the growing consciousness among Indian
Preacher and Hayes’ (2008) bootstrapping method was used to consumers toward luxury apparel in self-identity construal.
analyze the indirect effect. The bootstrapping analysis with Earlier studies have emphasized the relevance of brands in
5,000 resamples revealed that the indirect effects of b 1 = 0.349 social identity construal, bestowing status and success to the
(0.425  0.373) and b 2 = 0.258 (0.546  0.373) were user. The current study attempts to understand the influence of
statistically significant with t-values of 3.90 and 3.47, and a values as connoting desired states of existence and behavior
95% confidence interval does not consist of 0 in between CI: concerning luxury apparel brand purchases. It adds to the
[lower control limit (LCL) = 0.34; upper control limit (UCL) = existing literature by looking at terminal and instrumental
0.51] and CI: [LCL = 0.26; UCL = 0.35], respectively. values as forms of desired motives that enable individuals to

Table 6 Mediation results

Structural model paths Total effect Direct effect Indirect effect t-Values CI: [LCL–UCL] VAF Mediation(%)
   
IV fi BC fi BI 0.510 0.182 0.349 3.90 0.34–0.51 0.689 68.90
TV fi BC fi BI 0.455 0.193 0.258 3.47 0.26–0.35 0.576 57.60

Notes: p < 0.01; TV = terminal value; IV = instrumental value; BC = brand consciousness; BI = behavioral intentions; VAF = variance accounted for
 Predicting luxury fashion consumption Journal of Product & Brand Management
Pradeep Kautish, Arpita Khare and Rajesh Sharma

exhibit a satisfied state of existence. Decisions to purchase 7. Implications of the study

luxury brands would be viewed as a need to aspire for a better
The present research has implications for marketing
life and it is essential to understand that individual differences
researchers and practitioners. This study has tried to
would affect value interpretations and behavior (Allen et al.,
empirically test the impact of value orientation on luxury
2002). The findings reveal that all the hypothesized
behavioral intentions in the context of the Indian fashion
relationships were positively supported and posit the relevance
apparel market. One of the central facets of selecting
of Rokeach’s (1973) human values (terminal/instrumental) and
luxury fashion brands is the symbolism that it represents and
psychological constructs – brand consciousness and behavioral
the value it communicates to other than consumers. Hitherto,
intentions in understanding the purchase intention of young
the gross ignorance of human value factors as a construct has
luxury fashion consumers in an EM. However, instrumental
had not just been slack in consumer behavior research, and
and terminal values need to be interpreted as specific states or
appreciative as a significantly moderate decisive norm, but also
goals in terms of happiness, fulfillment, security, satisfaction
and success. A broad view of value taxonomy may not be missing managerial insight in retail business prospects (Kim
adequate in understanding how Indian consumers view values and Kim, 2012). Moreover, both value orientations – terminal
in defining luxury brands. and instrumental – are coextensive to the social, emotional,
The results indicated that brand consciousness mediated the economic and utilitarian values (Ko et al., 2010).
relationship between value orientation and behavioral
intentions for luxury branded fashion apparel consumption. 7.1 Implications for research
The study revealed that a significant relationship existed The study makes two significant contributions. It redefined the
between terminal value and brand consciousness and terminal and instrumental values concerning brand
instrumental value and brand consciousness (H1a and H1b). consciousness and luxury brand. It examines the consumers’
The findings are in line with earlier studies that posited that interpretation of value orientation, perceptions and purchase
consumers’ value orientation affected the brand consciousness intention of luxury fashion apparel brands. Theoretically, the
for luxury products (Chattalas and Shukla, 2015; Shukla, research is perhaps among the pioneer attempts that integrate
2012; Shukla and Purani, 2012; Tsai, 2005; Tynan et al., 2010; Rokeach’s (1973) human value dichotomy and validate the
Weidmann et al., 2007, 2009). It suggested that the terminal efficacy of Rokeach’s (1973) value orientations as an
and instrumental values (H2a and H2b) influenced behavioral antecedent of brand consciousness and behavioral intentions
intentions (Allen et al., 2002), and the consumers’ brand for luxury consumption in an EM. Second, on the theoretical
consciousness of luxury apparel brands influenced behavioral framework, the present study extends and endorses the
intentions (H3). The results support earlier studies on brand symbolic self-completion theory regarding luxury fashion
purchase intentions (Husic and Cicic, 2009; Kastanakis and apparel consumption among young consumers in an EM
Balabanis, 2012, 2014; Sharda and Bhat, 2018, 2019). context, e.g. India. Indian consumers’ aspirations for global
The study investigated the role of brand consciousness as a lifestyle reflect their choices of luxury brands. The younger
mediator between terminal value and behavioral intentions and consumer groups perceive luxury brands as a reflection of well-
instrumental value and behavioral intentions. Mediation was being and achievement. The findings are significant as they
analyzed following the approach recommended by Preacher posit the changing marketing landscape for luxury brands and
and Hayes (2008). Results indicated that brand consciousness their interpretation as a reflection of postmodern societies.
acts as a mediator in the structural model, confirming H4 and Indian consumers increasingly reflect a desire to conform to
H5. Furthermore, brand consciousness mediated 68.90% of their global counterparts, and consumption of luxury brands
the relationship between instrumental value and behavioral suggests the changing value paradigm. Furthermore, the
intentions, and 57.60% between terminal value and behavioral instrumental value is a relatively more critical antecedent for
intentions. The meaningful mediation effect played by brand prompting brand consciousness than terminal values. It
consciousness is confirmed by the coefficients of determination augments earlier research which focuses on articulated needs
for behavioral intentions. The structural model assuming the on actual and desired behavioral consumption of luxury fashion
mediation role of brand consciousness has greater predictive (Perry and Kyriakaki, 2014; Zhang and Kim, 2013). The
power to the model without mediation. Research has discussed present findings lend theoretical sustenance to the adoption of
the relationship between value orientation and luxury consequence-led consumer value drivers based on a
consumption (Chattalas and Shukla, 2015; Shukla, 2012; combination of tangible and intangible branding-oriented
Shukla and Purani, 2012; Tsai, 2005; Tynan et al., 2010; benefits (Kautish and Sharma, 2018).
Weidmann et al., 2007, 2009) and argued the relationship
between brand consciousness and luxury consumption (Sharda 7.2 Implications for practitioners
and Bhat, 2018, 2019). The current study examined the The study provides insights for fashion luxury brand managers
relationship of brand consciousness with Rokeach’s (1973) to use consumer value orientation and brand consciousness in
value dichotomy. Also, the instrumental values appeared to be influencing behavioral intentions toward fashion apparel in an
more proficient than terminal values in explaining the brand EM. It is inevitable for companies to link the human side of
promotion, and value-led marketing practices in varied personal values with fashion apparel to focus their retail
contexts (Kautish and Sharma, 2018; Martin and Capelli, marketing mix strategies according to consumer’s
2018) because the Indian luxury market echoes a unique psychographic needs in terms of luxury consumption.
assortment of western lifestyles with traditional Indian values Thompson and Troester (2002) argued that the classical
(Jain et al., 2015, 2017; Jain and Khan, 2017). perspectives of values are not sufficiently attuned to:
 Predicting luxury fashion consumption Journal of Product & Brand Management
Pradeep Kautish, Arpita Khare and Rajesh Sharma

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 Predicting luxury fashion consumption Journal of Product & Brand Management
Pradeep Kautish, Arpita Khare and Rajesh Sharma

Zhan, L. and He, Y. (2012), “Understanding luxury consumption Department of Management Studies, Maharishi Dayanand
in China: consumer perceptions of best-known brands”, Journal Saraswati University, Rajasthan, India. His academic satchel
of Business Research, Vol. 65 No. 10, pp. 1452-1460. is brimming with laurels such as National Eligibility Test
Zhang, B. and Kim, J.-H. (2013), “Luxury fashion (NET) qualification for Lectureship in Management
consumption in China: factors affecting attitude and conducted by University Grants Commission, New Delhi and
purchase intent”, Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, prestigious Accredited Management Teacher (AMT)
Vol. 20 No. 1, pp. 68-79. certification in Marketing by All India Management
Zhao, X., Lynch, J.G., Jr. and Chen, Q. (2010), Association, New Delhi. He has published research papers in
“Reconsidering baron and kenny: myths and truths about some reputed international journals such as Marketing
mediation analysis”, Journal of Consumer Research, Vol. 37 Intelligence & Planning, Asia Pacific Journal of Marketing and
No. 2, pp. 197-206. Logistics, International Journal of Retail and Distribution
Management, Journal of Relationship Marketing, Young
Consumers, International Journal of Electronic Marketing and
Further reading Retailing, Journal of Modelling in Management, Journal of Indian
Bain & Company (2018), “Luxury goods worldwide market Business Research and Journal of Cleaner Production. Pradeep
study, Fall-Winter 2018, the future of luxury: a look into Kautish is the corresponding author and can be contacted at:
tomorrow to understand today”, available at: www.bain. [email protected]
com/contentassets/8df501b9f8d6442eba00040246c6b4f9/ Arpita Khare is an independent researcher and academician
bain_digest__luxury_goods_worldwide_market_study_fall with more than 23 years of experience in national level
_winter_2018.pdf (accessed on July 29, 2019). institutions in India. She has an MBA in Marketing and DPhil
McAlexander, J.H., Schouten, J.W. and Koenig, H.F. (2002), in International Management from University of Allahabad.
“Building brand community”, Journal of Marketing, Vol. 66 She has around 20 years of academic experience and has
No. 1, pp. 38-54. taught both marketing and operations related courses. She has
Becker, B.W. and Connor, P.E. (1981), “Personal values of the published research papers in some reputed international
heavy user of mass media”, Journal of Advertising Research, journals such as International Journal of Consumer Studies,
Vol. 21 No. 5, pp. 37-43. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, Marketing
Chadha, R. and Husband, P. (2007), The Cult of the Luxury Intelligence & Planning, International Review of Retail,
Brand, London: Nicholas Brealey. Distribution and Consumer Research, International Journal of
Fornell, C. and Larcker, D.F. (1981), “Evaluating structural Retail & Distribution Management, Journal of Internet
equation models with unobservable variables and measurement Commerce, Journal of Financial Services Marketing, Journal of
error”, Journal of Marketing Research, Vol. 18 No. 1, pp. 39-50. Targeting, Measurement and Analysis for Marketing, Database
Heaney, J.G., Goldsmith, R.E. and Jusoh, W.J.W. (2005), Marketing & Customer Strategy Management, and International
“Status consumption among Malaysian consumers: Journal of Human-Computer Interaction. She is in the editorial
exploring its relationships with materialism and attention-to board of International Journal of Retail and Distribution
social-comparison-information”, Journal of International Management (Emerald), Journal of Marketing Analytics
Consumer Marketing, Vol. 17 No. 4, pp. 83-98. (Palgrave) and International Journal of Competition Business and
Jayawardhena, C. (2004), “Personal values’ influence on e- Growth (Inderscience).
shopping attitude and behaviour”, Internet Research, Vol. 14 Rajesh Sharma is working in the School of Business, Mody
No. 2, pp. 127-138. University, Lakshmangarh, Sikar, Rajasthan. He received MA
Prakash, V. (1986), “Segmentation of women’s market based and MPhil degrees from Kurukshetra University,
on personal values and means-end chain model: a framework Kurukshetra, and PhD from Department of Economics,
for advertising strategy”, Advances in Consumer Research, Mody University of Science and Technology, Lakshmangarh,
Vol. 13 No. 1, pp. 215-220. Sikar, Rajasthan, India. His academic satchel is brimming
Wilson, A. and Laskey, N. (2003), “Internet-based marketing with laurels such as National Eligibility Test (NET)
research: a serious alternative to traditional research methods?”, qualification for Lectureship in Economics conducted by
Marketing Intelligence & Planning, Vol. 21 No. 2, pp. 79-84. University Grants Commission, New Delhi. He has published
research papers in some reputed international journals such as
International Journal of Social Economics, The Electricity Journal,
About the authors Management of Environmental Quality: An International
Pradeep Kautish is working in Marketing area at the Journal, International Journal of Economic Policy in Emerging
Institute of Management, Nirma University, Ahmedabad, Economies, Journal of Asia Business Studies, Global Business
Gujarat, India. He received MBA and PhD degrees from the Review and Vision: The Journal of Business Perspective.

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