TABLE OF CONTENTS

1 HISTORY ......................................................................................................................... 3
2 INTRODUCTION .............................................................................................................. 3
3 PROPERTIES OF DISPERSE DYES ....................................................................................... 4
4 CLASSIFICATION OF DISPERSE DYES................................................................................. 4
4.1 ACCORDING TO CHEMICAL CLASSIFICATION ................................................................................ 4
4.2 ACCORDING TO FASTNESS PROPERTIES ...................................................................................... 7
4.3 ACCORDING TO ENERGY REQUIREMENT ..................................................................................... 7
5 COMPARISON OF DISPERSE DYES .................................................................................... 7
6 COMMERCIAL NAME OF DISPERSE DYES ......................................................................... 8
7 CHEMICAL COMPOSITION IN DISPERSE DYE .................................................................... 8
8 DYEING MECHANISM OF DISPERSE DYES 1 ...................................................................... 8
9 DYEING MECHANISM OF DISPERSE DYES 2 ...................................................................... 9
9.1 FACTORS INFLUENCING THE DYEING PERFORMANCE OF DISPERSE DYES .......................................... 10
10 MECHANISM OF DYEING WITH DISPERSE DYE ............................................................... 10
11 EFFECT OF VARIOUS CONDITION ON DISPERSE DYEING ................................................. 11
11.1 EFFECT OF TEMPERATURE IN DISPERSE DYEING ......................................................................... 11
11.2 EFFECT OF PH IN DISPERSE DYEING ......................................................................................... 12
12 METHOD OF DISPERSE DYEING OF POLYESTER .............................................................. 12
12.1 THERMOSOL DYEING ............................................................................................................ 12
12.1.1 Typical Recipe for Thermosol Method .................................................................... 12
12.1.2 Process Sequence for Thermosol Method ............................................................... 13
12.1.3 Mechanism Of Thermosol Method ......................................................................... 14
12.1.4 Procedure Of Thermosol Method ............................................................................ 14
12.1.5 Pros And Cons of Thermosol Method...................................................................... 14
12.2 CARRIER METHOD ............................................................................................................... 15
12.2.1 Typical Recipe for Carrier Method .......................................................................... 16
12.2.2 Procedure Of Carrier Method .................................................................................. 17
[Link] Dyeing Curve for Carrier Method.................................................................................... 17
12.2.3 Pros And Cons of Carrier Method............................................................................ 17
12.3 HIGH TEMPERATURE METHOD (HTM) .................................................................................... 18
12.3.1 Typical Recipe for High Temperature Method ........................................................ 19
12.3.2 Procedure of High Temperature Method ................................................................ 19
 [Link] Dyeing Curve for HT Method .......................................................................................... 19
12.3.3 PROS AND CONS OF HIGH TEMPERATURE METHOD............................................................ 20
13 DISPERSE DYE TEST METHOD ........................................................................................ 20
13.1 COMPARISON AMONG THREE DYEING PROCESSES ....................................................................... 20
14 CARRIERS USED IN DISPERSE DYEING ............................................................................ 21
14.1 PROPERTIES OF CARRIER ....................................................................................................... 21
14.2 CHEMICALS USED AS CARRIER ................................................................................................ 22
14.3 AMOUNT OF CARRIER FOR DIFFERENT SHADES........................................................................... 22
14.4 SOME COMMERCIAL NAME OF CARRIERS .................................................................................. 22
14.5 FACTORS CONSIDERED FOR SELECTING A CARRIER ....................................................................... 22
14.6 MECHANISM OF CARRIER ACTION ........................................................................................... 23
14.7 ADVANTAGES OF CARRIER DYEING .......................................................................................... 23
14.8 DISADVANTAGES OF CARRIER DYEING ...................................................................................... 24
15 APPLICATION METHODS OF DISPERSE DYES .................................................................. 24
15.1 FACTORS CONSIDERED FOR SELECTION OF A DISPERSE DYEING METHOD ......................................... 24
16 DISPERSING AGENT....................................................................................................... 25
16.1 TRADE/COMMERCIAL NAME OF DISPERSING AGENTS .................................................................. 25
16.2 CRITERIA OF CHOOSING THE DISPERSE DYE FOR COMBINED SHADE ................................................ 26
16.3 FUNCTIONS OF DISPERSING AGENT ......................................................................................... 26
17 REDUCTION CLEARING .................................................................................................. 26
17.1 TYPICAL RECIPE FOR REDUCTION CLEARING ............................................................................... 27
17.2 MECHANISM OF REDUCTION CLEARING ................................................................................... 27
18 DYEING PROCEDURE OF POLY-COTTON BLEND .............................................................. 27
18.1 RECIPE .............................................................................................................................. 27
18.2 DYEING SCHEME ................................................................................................................. 28
18.3 PROCEDURE ....................................................................................................................... 28
18.4 AFTER TREATMENT............................................................................................................... 28
19 PROBLEMS OF DYEING POLYESTER ................................................................................ 29
20 PRINTING WITH DISPERSE DYE ...................................................................................... 29
20.1 PRINTING ON POLYESTER FABRIC WITH DISPERSE DYE ................................................................. 30
20.1.1 Standard Recipe ...................................................................................................... 30
[Link] Printing Procedure .......................................................................................................... 30
20.1.2 Another Recipe ........................................................................................................ 30
20.1.3 Another Recipe for Industrial use ............................................................................ 31
[Link] Printing Procedure .......................................................................................................... 31
 20.2 FIXATION METHODS AFTER PRINTING...................................................................................... 32
20.2.1 Thermo fixation ....................................................................................................... 32
20.2.2 Super-Heated Steaming .......................................................................................... 32
20.2.3 Atmospheric Steaming ............................................................................................ 33
20.2.4 High Pressure Steaming .......................................................................................... 33
20.2.5 Pressure Steaming................................................................................................... 33
20.2.6 Dry Heat (Baking) Fixation ...................................................................................... 33
20.3 WHITE DISCHARGE STYLE ON UNFIXED GROUND ......................................................................... 34
20.3.1 Recipe ...................................................................................................................... 34
20.4 COLOR RESIST STYLE OF PRINTING............................................................................................ 34

Disperse Dye
1 HISTORY
• 1922: Green and Saunders- The dyestuffs suitable for cellulose acetate such as
Ionamines colors
• 1923: Baddiley and Shepherdson- S.R.A (Sulpho ricinoleic acid) colors
Above, both colors were found to be applicable to polyester. However, as polyester has a very
compact structure, the dyes being inferior to them. So, it was necessary to modify the original
cellulose acetate dyes from their fastness and dyeing character point of view.
In one of such developments, the application of the insoluble dyes in the form of micro-fine
dispersion called as disperse dyes were brought into commercial practice.

2 INTRODUCTION
The term “disperse dye” have been applied to the organic coloring substances which are free
from ionizing groups, are of low water solubility and are suitable for dyeing hydrophobic fibers.
It is a special class of dyestuff which is used for dyeing man-made fibers e.g., polyester fabric.
The dye is so called because; it is non-soluble, non-ionic dye and molecularly dispersed aided by
dispersing agents. The size of the dye molecule is very small.
The negative charge on the surface of hydrophobic fibers like polyester cannot be reduced by
any means, so non-ionic dyes like disperse dyes are used which are not influenced by that surface
charge.
3 PROPERTIES OF DISPERSE DYES
• Disperse dyes are nonionic dyes. So, they are free from ionizing group.
• It is characterized by the absence of solubilizing groups and low molecular weight.
• The size of the dye molecule is very small. It is about 2-3 nm.
• Disperse dyes are very less soluble in water but make fine dispersion due to small dye
molecule size.
• They are organic coloring substances which are suitable for dyeing hydrophobic fibers
and synthetic fibers; especially polyester fabric.
• Disperse dyes are crystalline material of high melting point (>150°C)
• Carrier and dispersing agents are required for dyeing with disperse dyes.
• Disperse dyes have fair to good light fastness with rating about 5-6.
• The wash fastness of these dyes is moderate to good with rating about 4-5.
• They do not undergo any chemical change during dyeing.
• Disperse dyeing is carried out in an acidic condition and higher temperature.
• Polyester fiber is dyed by disperse dyes but nylon and acrylic can also be dyed with
this.
• Certain blue and violet disperse dyes with an anthraquinone dye structure fade in the
presence of nitrous oxide.
• Color fading occurs with heat application.
• Sublimation power is notable, attributed to low molecular size, non-ionic nature, and
the absence of sulphonated groups.
• [Link]
mit-ivy-company/

4 CLASSIFICATION OF DISPERSE DYES

4.1 ACCORDING TO CHEMICAL CLASSIFICATION

1. Nitro Dyes:
 Example: dispersal fast yellow A, Serisol yellow 2G
2. Amino Ketone Dyes:

Example: Gelliton fast green 3B

3. Anthraquinonoid Dyes:
 Example: duranol violet 2R, duranol brilliant blue G
4. Monoazo Dyes:

Example: cibacel orange 2RD

5. Diazo Dyes:
 Example: celliton fast yellow 5R,

4.2 ACCORDING TO FASTNESS PROPERTIES

There are four types: -
i. Group A: these dyes have excellent dyeing properties and good fastness. E.g., C.I.
disperse Red 5, C.I. disperse Orange 3
ii. Group B: these dyes are excellent in high temperature and for carrier dyeing, with
moderate fastness. E.g., Disperse Yellow 1, Disperse Blue.
iii. Group C: these dyes are moderate for carrier and high temperature dyeing with higher
fastness properties than Group-B dyes. E.g., C.I disperse Violet 3, Disperse Orange 13.
iv. Group D: these dyes are of excellent high fastness to that but poor dyeing properties on
carrier dyeing. E.g., Disperse Orange 32, Disperse Yellow 63.

4.3 ACCORDING TO ENERGY REQUIREMENT

There are three types :-
i. Low energy dyes: These dyes are used to dye with carrier. For dyeing, 770 C temperature
is required. They have extremely poor resistance to sublimation.
ii. Medium energy dyes: these dyes are used to dye mostly in between temperature 104 to
10 degree C which provides better sublimation fastness than that of low energy dyes.
iii. High energy dyes: these dyes are used to dye at temperature above 129 degree C and
are suitable for continuous dyeing. They provide good fastness.

5 COMPARISON OF DISPERSE DYES

CLASSIFICATION MOLECULAR WT POLARITY DYEING RATE SUBLIMATION
FASTNESS
 Low Energy Low Low High Low

Medium energy Medium Medium Medium Medium

High energy High High Low High

6 COMMERCIAL NAME OF DISPERSE DYES

Name of dye Manufacturer Contry of origin
Artisil Sandoz Switzerland
Foron Sandoz Switzerland
Cibacel Ciba-seigy Switzerland
Terasil Ciba-seigy Switzerland
Dispersol ICI UK
Duranol ICI UK
Samaron Hoechst Germany
SRA British Celanese ltd. UK
Setile ACNA Italy
Palani BASF Germany

7 CHEMICAL COMPOSITION IN DISPERSE DYE

Monoazo dyes - 50%
Anthraquinonoid dyes - 25%
Diazo dyes - 10%
Methane dyes - 3%
Styryl dyes - 3%
Acrylene benzimidazole - 3%
Quinonapthalon dyes - 3%
Amino napthyl amide - 1%

8 DYEING MECHANISM OF DISPERSE DYES 1

The dyeing of hydrophobic fabric with disperse dyes may be considered as a process of dye
transfer from a liquid solvent (water) to a solid organic solvent (fibre).
Disperse dyes are added to water with a surface-active agent to form an aqueous dispersion. The
insolubility of disperse dyes enable them to leave the dye liquor as they are more substantive to
the application of that to the dye liquor increases the energy of dye molecules and accelerates
the dyeing of textile fibres.
Heating the dye liquor swell the fibre to some extent and assists the dye to penetrate the fibre
polymer system. Thus, the dye molecule takes its place in the amorphous regions of the fibre.
Within the fibre polymer system, the dye molecules are held by hydrogen bonds and van der
Waals force.
The dyeing is considered to take place in the following simultaneous steps: -
1. Diffusion of dye in solid phase, into water by breaking up into individual molecules. This
diffusion depends on dispersibility and solubility of dyestuff and is aided by the presence of
dispersing agent and increasing temperature.
2. Adsorption of the dissolved dye from the solution onto the fibre surface. This dyestuff
adsorption by in the dye bath and that in the fibre.
3. Diffusion of the adsorbed dye from the fibre surface into the interior of the fibre substance
towards the center. In normal condition, the adsorption rate is always higher than the diffusion
rate. Abd this is the governing step of dyeing.

9 DYEING MECHANISM OF DISPERSE DYES 2

Main mechanism of dyeing is to swelling the fibre so that dye molecule gets enough space to stay
inside the fibre. In hydrophilic fibre such as cotton this swelling is done by wetting. But when we
dye polyester fibre, due to compact structure it is not able to swell on wetting. So, it is
hydrophobic fibre. Its MR% is .04% so it is highly hydrophobic. So, it needs special arrangement.
Swelling is done by applying chemical or heat. The chemical which swells fibre
called carrier. Heating of dye liquor swells the fibre to open up and assists the dye to penetrate
the fibre polymer system. Thus, the dye molecule takes its place in the amorphous regions of the
fibre. Once taking place within the fibre polymer system, the dye molecules are held by hydrogen
bonds and Van Der Waals’ force. When the system is taken off the molecular area shrunk & dye
molecules are entrapped inside the polymer.
Polyester fibre contains pores or canals within its structure which, when heated to 100°C, expand
to allow particles of the dyes to enter. The expansion of the pores is limited by the heat of the
water – industrial dyeing of polyester is carried out at 130°C in pressurised equipment. Dispersal
fast yellow G, fast orange G violet 2R blue GN etc are some suitable for polyester at boiling
temperature without carrier.

9.1 FACTORS INFLUENCING THE DYEING PERFORMANCE OF DISPERSE DYES

1. Raw material.
2. Dye quality.
3. Chemical class.
4. Dispersing agent.
5. Carrier.
6. Temperature.
7. pH.
8. Time.

10 MECHANISM OF DYEING WITH DISPERSE DYE

First Step:
One of the first obvious requirements of a dye is its solubility. With regards to the disperse dyes,
which are generally regarded as insoluble, their dissolution in the dye bath depends on their
dispersibility and solubility. Dispersibility is aided by the presence of dispersing agents and the
solubility by the rise in temperature. Neither of these characteristics is influenced by the fiber
characteristics.
Second Step:
The second step, as has been described earlier, relates to the adsorption of the dye molecules on
to the fiber surface. Dyestuff adsorption by the fiber surface is influenced by two characteristics.
The solubility of the dye in the dye bath and that in the fiber.
Third Step:
After adsorption, the next step in the dyeing process is penetration of the dyestuff molecules
into the fiber structure. The overall rate of dyeing is governed by such penetration or diffusion of
the dye from the fiber surface into the fiber. Under the normal dyeing conditions of time and
temperature, the rate of adsorption is always higher than the rate of diffusion and it is therefore
the third step that governs the overall rate of dyeing. In any dye bath, when the amount of dye
absorbed by the fiber equals the amount of dye desorbed by it (coming out of it), the dye bath is
said to be in equilibrium.
When equilibrium dyeing is reached, the following subsidiary equilibria are established:
1 Dye dispersed in the bath ↔ Dye dissolved in the dye bath.
2 Dye dissolved in the dye bath ↔ Dye adsorbed on the fiber surface
3 Dye adsorbed on the fiber surface ↔ Dye diffused into the fiber surface
If the amount of dye present in the dye bath is not sufficient to saturate the fiber in the dyeing
process, only the first two equilibria are established. If the fiber is saturated, the third equilibrium
is attained and the dyeing is completed. Thus, the aqueous solubility of the dye and the diffusion
of the dye in the fiber are the two factors governing the dyeing process that are more important.
If these factors are affected, the rate of dyeing, the percentage exhaustion of the dye bath and
the level dyeing characteristics of the disperse dye are also affected.

11 EFFECT OF VARIOUS CONDITION ON DISPERSE DYEING

11.1 EFFECT OF TEMPERATURE IN DISPERSE DYEING

In case of dyeing with disperse dye temperature plays an important role. For the swelling of fibre
temperature about 100°C is required if high temperature dyeing method is applied. Again, in case
of carrier dyeing this swelling occurs at 85-90°C. In case of Thermosol dyeing method if
temperature is kept more, fabric is kept for less time in thermosol unit. Because in higher
temperature, less time is enough for thermofixation of dye. If it is kept for more time at high
temperature dye sublimation and loss of fabric strength may occur.
Again, though disperse dye is a water insoluble dye, its solubility increases with increasing
temperature.
11.2 EFFECT OF PH IN DISPERSE DYEING
For disperse dyeing the dye bath should be acidic and p H should be maintained in between 4.5 -
5.5. For maintaining this pH generally acetic acid is used. We may also use any mineral acid like
H3PO4 but those are strong and costly. So mild acid like acetic acid is used for controlling pH of
the bath. At this pH dye exhaustion is satisfactory. During color development correct p H should
be maintained otherwise fastness will be inferior and color will be unstable.

12 METHOD OF DISPERSE DYEING OF POLYESTER

There are 3 methods of polyester dyeing. They are:
1. High temperature high pressure method (130° – 140°C)
2. Pad thermosol method (180° – 220°C)
3. Carrier method (80° – 100°C)

12.1 THERMOSOL DYEING

This dyeing process is not suitable for garments dyeing because it is unhygienic.
Thermosol method is a continuous method of dyeing polyester fabric with disperse dye. At first
padding is carried out in a padding mangle at room temperature then curing is performed at high
temperature thermosol close vessel unit in a temperature of 180-220°C. Here curing time
should be maintained very carefully to get required shade and to retain required fabric strength.
This dyeing process is developed by Du Pont Corporation in 1949. In curing temperature, the
fibers are soften and their internal structure is opened, polymer macromolecules vibrates
vigorously and dye molecules diffuse in fiber. It requires only a few seconds to 1 min and
temperature about 180-220°C.

12.1.1 Typical Recipe for Thermosol Method

Dye x% OWF (On Weight of Fabric)
Wetting Agent 1-2 gm/liter
Acetic Acid 1-1.5 gm/liter
Thickener 20-40 gm/liter
pH 4.5-5
Time 2 hours

12.1.2 Sample Recipe for Thermosol Method

Disperse Dye 10 gm/liter
Dispersing Agent 3 gm/liter
Wetting Agent 3 gm/liter
Acetic Acid 1 cc/liter
Anti-Roller Depositor 1 cc/liter
 Anti-Migrating Agent 1 cc/liter
Urea 10 gm/liter
pH 4.5-5
Time 2 hours

12.1.3 Flow chart of Thermosol Dyeing Machine

Fabric inlet
↓
J- Box
↓
Dye Padding
↓
VTGR (Airing Zone)
↓
IR Dryer-1 + 2
↓
Drying Unit
↓
Curing
↓
Cooling Cylinder
↓
J- Box (Fabric stored)
↓
Fabric Outlet
12.1.4 Process Sequence for Thermosol Method

12.1.5 Mechanism Of Thermosol Method

In the thermosol process, the dye dissolves directly into the fiber using heat instead of an
aqueous medium. The dye is deposited on the fiber surface, and exposure to dry heat at a
temperature of approximately 220°C leads to the direct dissolution of the dye into the fiber.
Complete penetration is achieved within 60 seconds.

12.1.6 Procedure Of Thermosol Method

1. Apply the dye solution onto the fabric through padding using the provided recipe in a
three-bowl padding mangle.
2. Dry the fabric at 100°C by means of hot flue or infrared (IR), adjusting based on the dryer
used; excessive temperature may hinder solid shade formation. IR is used to evaporate
water from fabric in vapor form. This eliminates the migration of dye particles.
3. Pass through thermosol unit where thermo fixing is done at about (180°-220°) C temp for
60-90 seconds depending on type of fiber, type of fabric, dye and depth of shade. In
thermosol process about 75-90% dye is fixed on fabric.
4. Wash off unfixed dyes and chemicals with warm water.
5. Perform soap washing or reduction clearing if necessary.
6. Conclude the process by washing the fabric again and allowing it to dry.

12.1.7 Pros And Cons of Thermosol Method

PROS:
1. Short dyeing time.
2. Only used for continuous method.
3. Elimination of the need for a carrier.
 4. Absence of additional issues related to carrier removal using alkali.
5. Attainment of very bright shades.
6. Excellent dye utilization (75-90%).
7. Dyeing is unaffected by pre heat setting.
8. Dyeing time is very short.
9. Non-toxic.
CONS:
1. Necessity for specialized machinery.
2. Risk of strength loss with prolonged treatment.
3. Potential change in shade due to sublimation at high temperatures.
4. Increased cost due to the special arrangements required for this process.

12.2 CARRIER METHOD

Polyester shrinks about 7% in boiling water and even more at higher temperature. To avoid this,
it is heat set. As a general rule it can be stated that a material (Synthetic) will be dimensionally
stable if set at a temperature 30°-40°C higher than that to which it will been subjected during
use. Fabrics are usually heat-set on pin stenters over temperature ranges 180°C and 200°C but
garments can be set in steam autoclave machines at steam pressures between 20-25 pcs (pound
per square inch). Terylene is highly crystalline and highly hydrophobic.
Therefore, dyes with large molecules cannot easily penetrate in to this fibre. It has no chemically
active group and cannot combine with dye anions and cat ions. In practice, polyester fibres are
dyed with disperse dye.
A considerable advance in the dyeing of polyester fibres was made when the carrier method was
introduced. It was discovered that quite a number of organic compounds such as phenols, amines
or aromatic hydrocarbons, when either dissolved or suspended in the dye bath, accelerated the
absorption of disperse dyes by the fibre. The way in which carriers produce the effect is not
clearly understood but they do cause some swelling of the fibre. It seems that they can enter into
the fine structure of the polyester and push adjacent long-chain molecules apart. This loosens up
the molecular pattern and facilitates the entry of the large dyestuff molecules. The water
insoluble carriers also appear to from a surface film on the fibre in which the disperse dye is
highly soluble. The transfer of dye, in such circumstances, does not take place between the
aqueous phase and the fibre but between dyestuff dissolved in the carrier and fibre.
But it is found that there is a maximum concentration of the carrier above which the take-up of
the dye by the fibre decreases. This optimum carrier concentration corresponds approximately
with the amount necessary to saturate both fibre and dye bath phase of the system. Excess will
introduce a third phase, namely undissolved carrier, which will compete with the fibre for the
dye.
Two carriers which have proved success are diphenyl (Matexil CA-DP) and O-Pheny Pheny
(Matexil CA-OPE). Diphenyl is a cream-coloured powder, insoluble in water, but in a readily-
dispersible stat. Mateil CA-DP is a disphenyl carrier supplied in self-emulsifiable flakes. The
emulsion i9s prepared by stirring the flakes into water at 80°C or hooter than this if desired and
added to the dye bath at 60°C. The recommended concentration of carrier in the dye bath is 4 to
6 parts per liter. Matexil CA-OPE should be used in the dye bath as 7.5 parts per litter and is added
directly to the dye bath at 50°C t o 60°C.
The addition of dispersing agent should precede that of Matexil CA-OPE.
A typical recipe of carrier dyeing is given bellow:

Dyestuff 3% (20-30gm/liter) on the weight of material

Carrier 15gm/liter
Dispersing Agent 2-3gm/liter
Acetic Acid 5cc/liter
Material to Liquor Ratio 1:20
Temperature Boil at 1000C
Time 1 hour to 1.5 hour

The dye bath is made up with 1/2 - 2 kg (.5 – 1g/liter) of an anionic surface-active agent and 3-
4kg carrier per 1000 liters. The temperature should be 40°C and after dye has been added, the
liquor is slowly brought up to 100°C. After 15 minutes at this temp 5cc acetic acid is added. Boiling
is continued for a further 1 hour after the addition of acetic acid. After dyeing the goods are
washed out with a detergent and some NaOH to ensure the complete removal of carrier.

12.2.1 Typical Recipe for Carrier Method

Dye x% OWF (On Weight of Fabric)
Carrier 1-4% OWF (On Weight of Fabric)
Wetting Agent 1-2 gm/liter
Dispersing Agent 0.5-1%
Acetic Acid 1-2 gm/liter
M:L 1:10
pH 4.5-5.5
Temperature 100°C
Time 1 hour
12.2.2 Procedure Of Carrier Method

[Link] Dyeing Curve for Carrier Method

1. Prepare the dye sol with cold water (1:10) and let it stand for 15 minutes.
2. Set the dye bath at 60°C and sequentially mix carrier, dispersing agent, and salts.
3. Add the material and maintain it for 15 minutes without increasing the temperature.
4. Introduce the dye sol, and regulate the pH with CH3COOH.
5. Increase the temperature to 100°C, then proceed with dyeing 1 hour.
6. Reduce the temperature to 70°C, followed by rinsing and potential reduction clearing.

12.2.3 Pros And Cons of Carrier Method

PROS:
1. Enables dyeing in simple equipment under atmospheric pressure at temperatures up to
100°C for polyester fiber.
2. Provides moderate-level dyeing in polyester dyeing.
3. Shortened dyeing cycles due to accelerated dyeing.
4. Enhanced fastness properties resulting from increased penetration into the fiber.
5. Accelerates the rate of dyeing.
6. Certain carriers reduce wool staining when dyeing polyester/wool blends.
7. Improves leveling.
CONS:
1. Higher cost.
2. Reduced light fastness.
3. Toxicity associated with some carriers.
 4. Some carriers may cause spotting issues.
5. The removal of the carrier using alkali adds to the overall cost.
6. Odor and air pollution issues.

12.3 HIGH TEMPERATURE METHOD (HTM)

It’s also called Exhaust Method. In this method, temperature is kept in between 130-140°C and
pressure is kept from 0 to 170 kPa. This method is also known as pressure dyeing which is used
for highly crystalline synthetic fibers and their blends. This technique causes the fibre to swell
even more than which achieved at 100°C temperature. So that dye molecules penetrate the
fibre polymer system. It eliminates the need of carriers.
There are many advantages associated with dyeing polyester at temperature range between
120°C and 130°C. Heavy shade can be dyed pleated because of the permanency of the crease so
formed. When dyeing at atmospheric pressure, only dyes of low molecular weight which tends
to sublime during pleating can be used, the more satisfactory colors with higher molecular
weights can be applied at 120°C -130°C. There is no perceptible loss of elasticity or tensile
strength when polyester fibres are dyed under neutral or slightly acid conditions at 130°C. But if
any alkali is used there is degradation in strength and elasticity. Any alkali used in scouring must
be removed entirely before high temperature dyeing. The fibre should be heat-set before dyeing.
The following disperse dyes are recommended for high temperature dyeing:
C.I Disperse Yellow 1, 39
C.I Disperse Orange 13
C.I Disperse Red 11, 13
C.I Disperse Violet 26
C.I Disperse Blue 26
The dye bath is made up with dyestuff, dispersing agent (Matexil DN-VI) or some similar product
which is stable up to 130°C.
The dyeing should be started at 70°C, the temperature raised slowly to 120°C-130°C and
maintained for a period of 30-60 minutes. When very heavy shades have been dyed it may be
necessary to give a “Reduction Clearing” to avoid lack of fastness to rubbing. The goods are
treated for 20 minutes at 45°C-50°C with 6kg NaOH (68), 2kg Na2S2O4 and 2kg Matexil Sc-A50
per 1000kg of water. Owing to the hydrophobic nature of polyester fibre only, surface dye will
be reduced and the chemicals will not penetrate to react with the absorbed color. After high
temperature dyeing the goods should always have a final wash-off at 70°C for 15-20 minutes with
suitable detergent.
12.3.1 Typical Recipe for High Temperature Method
Dye x% OWF (On Weight of Fabric)
Salt 0.5-1%
Dispersing Agent 1gm/liter or 0.5-1%
Acetic Acid 1 gm/liter
M:L 1:10 or 1:8
pH 4.5-5.5
Temperature 130oC
Time 1 hour

12.3.2 Procedure of High Temperature Method

[Link] Dyeing Curve for HT Method

1. Prepare dye solution by adding cold water (1:8) and let it sit for 15 mins.
2. Set dye bath at 60°C, adding dispersing agent and salt.
3. Treat the material for 15 minutes without raising the temperature.
4. Add the dye solution and control the pH with CH3COOH.
5. Raise the dye bath temperature to 130°C within 30 minutes.
6. Continue dyeing at 130°C for 1 hr.
7. Cool the dye bath as quickly as possible.
8. Allow the fabric to undergo hot rinsing.
9. Perform reduction clearing if required, as before.
10. Rinse the fabric again and then dry.
12.3.3 PROS AND CONS OF HIGH TEMPERATURE METHOD
PROS:
1. Most common method.
2. Shorter dyeing times.
3. No need for a carrier.
4. Dye transfer from liquid.
5. Dye stuff absorption or dye take up is higher. Up to 98% dye fixation.
6. Minimal dye loss.
7. Solvent (water) to solid organic solvent (fiber).
8. Typically, higher light fastness and wet fastness.
9. Improved exhaustion and deeper dyeing achievable.
10. Fastness properties of dyeing is superior.
11. Faster diffusion of the dye in the fiber at elevated temperatures.
CONS:
1. Higher temperature requirements.

13 DISPERSE DYE TEST METHOD

First, we take a test tube which contains slightly alkaline water of 2% caustic soda. Now immerse
the dyed or printed sample. Now treat the alkaline liquor up to the color bleeding limit & timing.
After bleeding that solution will be cold & added a few percent (2% – 3%) ether solution. After
adding the ether solution, the bleeded colors of that solution are almost at bleeded stage. Now
neutralize the bleeded solution with 2% Acetic acid. After adding of acetic acid, the bleeded color
solution will be almost clear. It will indicate the sample which is used to test purpose that sample
is dyed or printed with disperse dye.

13.1 COMPARISON AMONG THREE DYEING PROCESSES

PARAMETER CARRIER HTHP THERMOSOL
Swelling Carrier is used for Temperature is used Temperature is used
swelling for swelling for swelling
Carrier Carrier is required Carrier and Carrier isn’t used but
but no thickener is thickener are not thickener is used
used used
Temp 800C-1000C 1250C-1400C 1800C-2200C
Cost Costly for carrier use Cheap Costly due to special
arrangement
Time 45 min 60 min 2-5 min
Effect on environment Not environment Friendly Friendly
friendly
Toxicity Toxic and non- Non-toxic and Non-toxic and
hygienic hygienic hygienic
 Removal Removal of carrier is Not necessary Not necessary
needed
Shade No change in shade No change in shade Change in shade due
to sublimation
Shade Intensity Less bright shade More bright shade Highly bright shade
Shrinkage More shrinkage More shrinkage Less shrinkage
Production Less production Less production High production due
to continuity
Fastness Light fastness not Fastness property is Good
good good to excellent
Molecular weight of Low higher medium
dye
Process Batchwise Batchwise Continuous
Application Wool/PE CVC, TC TC, POLYESTER

14 CARRIERS USED IN DISPERSE DYEING

It has been established that certain hydrocarbons, phenols, amino-acids, amides, alcohols, esters,
ketones, nitriles etc. Accelerate the rate of dyeing polyester fibres with disperse dyes from
aqueous medium at temperature up to 1000 C. These dyeing assistants alter the dispersing
properties of the dyes and the physical characteristics of the fibre so that more dye can be
transferred from the dyebath to the fiber. These are called carriers and are necessary for dyeing
polyester fibre at the normal pressure and temperature below 1000 C to increase the dyeing rate
and to permit dye migration within the fibre. Level dyeing of disperse dyes depends on the
migration power of dye which is affected by nature and amount of carrier dyeing time,
temperature and the shade.
Carriers are substances which accelerate the rate of dyeing polyester fabric with disperse dyes
at boiling temperature and atmospheric pressure. Carriers are dyeing assistants which alter the
dispersing properties of the dyes and physical characteristics of the fibre so that more dyes can
be transferred from the dye bath to the fibre at lower temperature.
It is a one kind of organic compound that acts as substantive swelling agents. In case of
hydrophobic fibre such as polyester fibre carrier is added to dye bath for increase of dye take up
at lower temperature.
Examples of Carrier: Diphenyl, O-Phenyl phenol, P-Phenyl phenol, Phenyl methyl carbinol,
Salicylic acid, Methyl salicylate, Mono-and di-chloro-benzenes, Benzoic acid etc.

14.1 PROPERTIES OF CARRIER

1. Low molecular weight.
2. Organic compound.
 3. Mainly aromatic compound of low water soluble.
4. Anionic emulsifying agent.
5. Lowering Tg thus promote chain movement & create free volume.

14.2 CHEMICALS USED AS CARRIER

• Phenol
• Benzoic Salicylate
• O-Phenol
• Di-Phenol
• P-Phenol
• Salicylic Acid

14.3 AMOUNT OF CARRIER FOR DIFFERENT SHADES

Shade Carrier

Light/Pale 2 gm/l

Medium 3 gm/l

Dark 4 g/l

14.4 SOME COMMERCIAL NAME OF CARRIERS

Commercial name Manufacturer Chemical class
Solvent OP Franco O-phenyl phenol
Tumescal D ICI Di-phenyl
Palanil carrier-A BASF Aromatic Ether
Carrier PDC TCC Emulsifiable Solvents
Butyl Oleate HAR Ester
Chlorinated Aromatic
Dilatin TCR Sandoz
Compound
Invalon Ciba-Ceigy
Dilatin DBI Sandoz (India) Ltd.
Ternol Mazda Industrial Chemicals Ltd.
Palani Carrier PE BASF
Tumescal OP ICI
Matexil ACI
Levagol Bayer

14.5 FACTORS CONSIDERED FOR SELECTING A CARRIER

▪ High carrier efficiency.
 ▪ Availability at low cost.
▪ Little or no effect on light fastness of final dyeing.
▪ Absence of unpleasant odor.
▪ Non-toxicity.
▪ No degradation or discoloration of the fibre.
▪ Ease of removal after dyeing.
▪ Increases swelling of fiber.
▪ Increases solubility of dye.
▪ High stability under dyeing condition.
▪ Compatibility with the dyestuffs.
▪ Easy of dispersion in the dyebath.
▪ Low volatility of the carrier including low volatility in the steam.
▪ Uniform absorption.

14.6 MECHANISM OF CARRIER ACTION

In carrier method of polyester dyeing is used. Carrier swells the fiber and ultimately causes
relaxation. They may operate by opening up the internal fiber structure and allow the dye
molecules to diffuse more rapidly. They act as molecular lubricants reducing inter-molecular
forces operating in the fiber there by following the dye molecule to force its way in its action may
be described as below:
1. It creates dye film on fiber surface.
2. Carrier takes dye inside the fiber from dye carrier association.
3. It increases the solubility of dye in the bath.
4. Carrier penetrates inside the fiber polymer chain and thereby reduces inter-chain
attraction. Thus, polymer chains become movable and so dye molecules may enter the
polymer system of fiber.
5. It increases fiber swelling.
6. The absorbency power of fiber.
7. The absorbed carrier increases the rate of dye uptake by creating liquid co -fiber.
8. It lubricates the thermally agitated fiber molecules.
9. 2-10 gm/lit carrier is used depending on material and liquor ratio and depth of shade.
10. The automatic of it attracts water.
11. With increasing molecular weight, the carrier efficiency also increases up to a certain
limit.

14.7 ADVANTAGES OF CARRIER DYEING

1. In conventional dyeing method the extremely crystalline polyester fibres cannot be dyed
in deep shade. But by using carrier we can get medium to dark shade in boiling
temperature.
 2. Materials can be dyed with simple equipment at atmospheric pressure and temperature
below 1000C.
3. Moderate level dyeing of polyester fabric can be done.
4. Some carrier reduces the staining of wool while dyeing polyester –wool blends.
5. Rate of dyeing can be increased by using carrier.
6. Improves fastness properties of fabric except light fastness.

14.8 DISADVANTAGES OF CARRIER DYEING

1. Carrier add to production cost of dyeing. Firstly, for dyeing it is used which is costly and
secondly for its removal alkali is required.
2. Carriers are unhygienic and toxic. It creates skin diseases.
3. Some dyeing machine may create carrier spot.
4. Carriers affect the light fastness property of dyed material. This effect may be reduced by
treating the material with hot air for 30 min.
5. Some carriers are dyed specific. They possess different efferent dyes; others have
compatibility with certain dyes.

15 APPLICATION METHODS OF DISPERSE DYES

• Method N: Normal dyeing method. Dyeing temperature is 80-100°C.
• Normal NC method: Method of dyeing at normal temperature with carriers. Dyeing
temperature 80-100°C.
• Method HT: High temperature dyeing method. Dyeing temperature 105-140°C.
• Method T: Thermosol dyeing method. Dyeing temperature 180-220°C, continuous
method of dyeing.
• Pad roll method: Semi continuous dyeing method.
• Pad steam method: Continuous dyeing method.

15.1 FACTORS CONSIDERED FOR SELECTION OF A DISPERSE DYEING METHOD

▪ Available of dyeing machine.
▪ Required color effect (dark/medium/light)
▪ Required color fastness.
▪ Types of material to be dyed.
▪ Cost of dye chemicals and auxiliaries.
▪ Overall economy of the system.
▪ Dyeing temperature.
16 DISPERSING AGENT
Disperse dyes are insoluble in water and form an aqueous dispersion in water. At first these dye
molecules are formed as large particles and they are made smaller particles by grinding. But as
they are water insoluble, they will give uneven dyeing if they are directly used in dye bath. So, to
ensure uniform and trouble-free dyeing the dye should be present in dye bath in a uniform very
fine form and should give a stable dispersion. This is the reason for which a special chemical is
used in dye bath, named dispersing agent. They should be effective under dyeing conditions.
Stable to hard water, high temperature and other dyeing assistants.
The actual dye is formed as relatively large particles during the last stages of its manufacture and
in this form, it is unsuitable for application on hydrophobic fibers without dispersing agent. If
these big particles(dye) are used as such, they produce uneven and specky dyeing and their full
color value is not realized. Dispersing agents are effective under the dyeing conditions and stable
to hard water, high temperature and other dye assistants which help to maintain dispersion of
dye molecule in the dye bath.

For example, soda powder, Turkey red oil, alkali sulphates, alkyl aryl phonates etc. are same
surface-active agent which are recommended as dispersing agents in disperse dyeing.
Examples of dispersing agents:
1. Soap powder
2. Turkey red oil
3. Alkyl sulphonates
4. Alkyl acryl sulphonates
5. Formaldehyde
6. Lignin sulphonates

16.1 TRADE/COMMERCIAL NAME OF DISPERSING AGENTS

NAME MANUFACTURER COUNTRY

Artisil Sandoz Switzerland

Ciba Ciba Switzerland

Dispersol ICI UK

Samron Hoechest West Germany

 Terasil Ciba Switzerland

Setamol BASF India Ltd. Germany

Edalon Sandoz Switzerland
Hispogal Hoechst West Germany
Dispersant WS Indokem Ltd. India
Lycol OI Sandoz (India) Ltd. India
Lucokem AK Kemicolor Industries Pvt. Ltd. India
Dispervat 60 Shri Ambuja Petro Chemicals Ltd. India
Calsolene Oil HS

16.2 CRITERIA OF CHOOSING THE DISPERSE DYE FOR COMBINED SHADE

1. The dyes should have or nearly same substantivity towards the fibers.
2. The dye should have same hydrophobicity.
3. Their characteristic should be same or nearly same.
4. Should be same energy level.
5. Should have same dyeing method.
6. Same diffusion number

16.3 FUNCTIONS OF DISPERSING AGENT

1. It assists in the process of particle size reduction of dye.
2. It enables the dye to be formed in powder form.
3. It facilitates the reconversion of the powder into a dispersion when added to the dye bath,
which is required for dyeing.
4. It maintains the dispersion in a fine form into dye bath throughout the process.
5. It increases the solubility of disperse dyes in water.
6. It influences the rate of dyeing.

17 REDUCTION CLEARING
In the case of disperse dyeing on PES fibers,
• Particulate disperse dye molecules accumulate at the surface of the dyed substrate
because of the dye’s low aqueous solubility
• Dye auxiliaries may also be present at the surface of the dyed PES material.
Reduction Clearing is a clearing process of polyester dyeing employing heavy reduction
(NaOH+Na2S2O4) that actively washes away non-penetrated, adsorbed dye. Reduction clearing is
specifically applied for medium and deep shades to enhance wash fastness.
17.1 TYPICAL RECIPE FOR REDUCTION CLEARING
Sodium Hydrosulphite or dithionite or 2 gm/liter
Hydrose (Na2S2O4)
Caustic Soda (NaOH) 1-2 gm/liter
Non-ionic Detergent 1 gm/liter
Temperature 70-80° C
Time 30 minutes
pH 4.5-5
M:L 1:30 or 1:50

17.2 MECHANISM OF REDUCTION CLEARING

In the case of azo disperse colorants, reduction clearing breaks the azo bond producing
colorless amino compounds.

For anthraquinone, the dyes are converted into the virtually colorless, water-soluble, low
substantivity, and leuco variant.

18 DYEING PROCEDURE OF POLY-COTTON BLEND

In case of blended fiber, the polyester part is always dyed by Disperse dye and cotton can be
dyed by Direct, Reactive, Sulphur or Azoic dye.
A = Terasil (Disperse Dye)
B = Solo phenyl (Direct Dye)

18.1 RECIPE
For polyester, salt → 2 gm/L [(NH4)2SO4]
For cotton, electrolyte mtl → 5 gm/L [NaCl]
pH → 4.5 – 5.5 with CH3COOH
Disperse dye as Terasil → 2%
Direct dye → 2%
Salt [(NH4)2SO4] → 2 gm/L
NaCl → 2gm/L
pH → 4.5 – 5.5/8 – 9
Temperature → 130˚C/90˚C
Time → 30mins/1 hour

18.2 DYEING SCHEME

18.3 PROCEDURE
In an airtight pot disperse dye (Terasil) and direct dye (Solo phenyl) are taken and prepare the
dye bath with above recipe at 50˚C for 10 minutes. Then the temperature raised at 130˚C for 20
– 30 minutes. This is done in the first bath. Then the temperature decreased at 100˚C for 10
minutes. After that for direct dye exhaustion NaCl is added at previous temperature for 40 – 50
minutes.

18.4 AFTER TREATMENT

Tinofix WS → 1 – 2%
CH3COOH → 1%
Time → 20 minutes
Temperature → 30˚C
19 PROBLEMS OF DYEING POLYESTER
Polyester fibres are essentially undyeable bellow 70-800C, leaving only a 20-300C range for
increasing the dyeing rate before recharging the boiling temperature. At any temperature, the
rate of dyeing of polyester with a given disperse dye is very much lower than for cellulose acetate
or nylon fibres.
The rate of diffusion of disperse dyes into the polyester bellow 1000C is so low than that dyeing
at the boil does not give reasonable exhaustion.

The rate of dyeing is higher for dyes of small molecular size that have higher diffusion coefficients.
Dyeing is faster when using fibre swelling agent called carriers to improve the fibre accessibility,
or when dyeing at higher temperatures above 1000C increase the dye diffusion rate. Fibres of the
most common polyester, polyethylene terephthalate (PET or PES), are quite crystalline and very
hydrophobic. Hot water does not swell them and large dye molecules do not easily penetrate
into the fibre interior. Polyesters have no ionic groups and are dyed almost exclusively with
disperse dye. The better diffusion at the boil of low molecular weight dyes results in moderate
migration during dyeing but then the washing fastness is only fair. Many of the more recent
disperse dyes are specifically for dyeing polyester. These are of higher molecular weight to
provide adequate fastness to sublimation during heat treatments. Some of these produce a
reasonable depth of shade by dyeing at the boil. Most, however, require higher dyeing
temperatures or carriers for satisfactory results. Dyeing of polyester with disperse dyes have
good light fastness. This does not always correlate with the light fastness on other fibres such as
cellulose diacetate.
The disperse dyes provide a full range of colors with adequate to good build-up on PET fibres.
Uneven filament texturizing or heat setting can lead to barre but higher dyeing temperatures, or
addition of some carrier, will promote migration to minimize this, Again, a full black requires
aftertreatment of the dyeing by diazotization of an amino disperse dye and coupling with a
suitable component, often BON acid. Concurrent dyeing with a mixture of the amino disperses
dye and dispersed BON acid, followed by treatment with sodium nitrate and hydrochloric acid, is
a common procedure. Some blacks are mixtures of dull yellow, red and blue dyes.

20 PRINTING WITH DISPERSE DYE

For printing on polyester fabric with disperse dye the selection of thickener is very important.
The print paste should adhere on the fabric surface and penetrate in to it. During fixation of the
dye at high temperature, the fabric is in a paste state and the dye in a volatile state, so that it
“dissolves” in the fabric & the color becomes very fast. The penetration becomes so deep that it
is difficult to distinguish between the printed fabric side & back side.
The most commonly used thickeners used in printing with disperse dyes are mentioned below:
▪ Starch ethers (best)
▪ Natural Gums
▪ Locust Bean Gum
▪ Meyprogum
▪ CMC (Carboxy Methyl Cellulose)

20.1 PRINTING ON POLYESTER FABRIC WITH DISPERSE DYE

20.1.1 Standard Recipe
• Dyes = 2 parts
• Thickener (Na-alginate) = 70 parts
• (NH4)2SO4 = 0.7 parts
• Dispersing Agent = 2 parts
• NaClO3 = 0.2 parts
• Water = as per desired concentration

[Link] Printing Procedure

1. At first a thickener paste is prepared according to the recipe.
2. Then dye and dispersing agent is mixed together.
3. After that ammonium sulphate and sodium chlorate solution is prepared and added
together.
4. Then all the solution is added with the thickener.
5. Thus, print paste is prepared.
6. The fabric is prepared for printing.
7. Then the fabric is printed with block and screen method.
8. The printed fabric is steamed in the steamer 10 min at 105 – 1100C to penetrate the dye
in the fabric and fix it.
9. After printing the fabric is washed well.

20.1.2 Another Recipe

• Na- Acetate : 5 Parts
• Citric Acid / (NH4)2SO4 : 20 Parts
 • Disperse Dye (liquid form) : 100 Parts
• Water : 175 Parts
• Myeprogum / Locust Bean Thickener : 700 Parts
––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
Total : 1000 Parts
In the paste citric acid adjusts pH between 5.5-6 Na-Chlorate protects the brightness of prints &
prevents reduction during steaming.
▪ After printing the fabric is dried carefully & the dye is fixed by one of the following
methods.
▪ After thermo fixation of dye, the fabric is washed & reduction clearing is then carried out.
Reduction clearing is carried out to obtain deep shades. (>5-15%).

20.1.3 Another Recipe for Industrial use

Dispersal or Duranol Dye → 10 – 100 percent
Water → 220-310 percent
Urea → 100 percent
Emulsion Thickener → 550 percent
Resist salt L → 10 percent
Perminal KB → 20 percent
Total → 1000 percent printing paste
(Note: 20% carrier will be used for carrier method and no urea will be used. Manutex F will be
used as gum. 200% urea will be used in case of high temperature steaming.)

[Link] Printing Procedure

Disperse dye is dispersed in water, mixed with urea, and stirred to add emulsion thickener with
resist salt L and Perminal KB. The mentioned printing paste is used to print polyester cloth and
dry it at a temperature of 110°C. The cloth is then dry-baked (Thermo fixed) at a temperature of
180°C to 200°C for 60 seconds.
The cloth is then washed in cold water. The cloth is then treated with a solution of 2 parts Lisapol
/ 1000 parts water for 5 to 10 minutes. The cloth is then washed in cold water and dried.
Reduction clearing treatment is done to deep shade the design pattern, which is done after
washing the fabric in cold water. The fabric is washed and dried in cold water for 10 minutes in a
mixture of 2% caustic soda, 2% Lysalamine and 2% hydrogen in 1000% water.
20.2 FIXATION METHODS AFTER PRINTING
After printing with disperse dyes the dyes are fixed on the fabric by one of the following dye-
fixation methods, namely-
1. Thermo fixation
2. Super-Heated Steaming
3. Atmospheric Steaming
4. High Pressure Steaming
5. Pressure Steaming
6. Dry Heat (Baking) Fixation

20.2.1 Thermo fixation

The features of this method of dye fixation are mentioned below:
• No steam is used.
• Dye is fixed by subjecting the print to hot air at 210ºC for 1 minute.
• The fixation is carried out in a backing oven or in a stenter where heat setting can also be
done simultaneously.
• The process productivity is high.
• The dye which has good sublimation fastness are subjected to this thermo fixation
process.
• There is 10-15% loss of color in thermo fixation, so the shade becomes dull.
• It is a continuous process of dye fixation which gives high production.

20.2.2 Super-Heated Steaming

The features of this method of dye fixation are mentioned below:
• It is a continuous process of dye fixation.
• This method utilizes superheated steam in high temperature steamers for fixation.
• This method is the best of the three methods.
• This method uses Urea in printing paste which helps to penetrate the fiber.
• Dye is fixed at 1000-1800C for 2-1 minutes by radiators.
• Other way 1800C for 1 minute or 1500C for 5 minutes is used.
• Higher productivity.
 • No loss of color.
• Dyes with medium sublimation fastness can be applied.
• The fabric handle is very soft.

20.2.3 Atmospheric Steaming

The features of this method of dye fixation are mentioned below:

• No pressure vessel is required to fix the printed fabric.

• Carrier is used in printing paste to produce a good color effect on printed fabric.

20.2.4 High Pressure Steaming

The features of this method of dye fixation are mentioned below:
• Discontinuous process of dye fixation
• Low productivity.
• Dye fixation is done by high pressure steam.
• Low production so costly process.
• Dyes with low sublimation fastness can be applied.
• It gives good color yield and bright print & smoothness.

20.2.5 Pressure Steaming

The features of this method of dye fixation are mentioned below:

• The printed cloth is steamed for 30 minutes at disconnected pressure.

• This creates a good printed effect on the printed fabric.
• This method does not require any career.

20.2.6 Dry Heat (Baking) Fixation

The features of this method of dye fixation are mentioned below:

• The maximum temperature is used for the disinfection of cloth.

• Here the fabric is treated from 180°C to 210°C for 30 seconds to 120 seconds.
• The polyester fabric is compressed. High-temperature stenter machines are used in
industries to alleviate this condition.
• The stenter is attached to the chain of the machine by clips or pins to keep the size of
the cloth right.
20.3 WHITE DISCHARGE STYLE ON UNFIXED GROUND
In this method the cloth is firstly padded with a dispersion of dye containing 2 gm/liter Na-
alginate to reduce the viscosity of the solution & tartaric acid to keep the pH between 5-6. The
fabric is squeezed (70% pickup) dried up at 900-1000C.

20.3.1 Recipe
• Citric Acid : 30 Parts
• Thio-diethylene glycol : 50 Parts
• Water : 70 Parts
• Safolin : 200 Parts
• Locust Bean Gum : 650 Parts
––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
Total : 1000 Parts
Here Safolin is a reducing or discharging agent, and thio-diethylene glycol is used as a solvent as
well as softeners and hygroscopic agents. The fixation is thermo fixation process.

20.4 COLOR RESIST STYLE OF PRINTING

At first the polyester fabric is padded in a dispersion containing:
• Citric Acid : 5 Parts
• Dispersol PC Dye : 50 Parts
• Water : 845 Parts
• Na- Alginate : 100 Parts
––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
Total : 1000 Parts
Here citric acid controls the pH of the liquor, Na-Alginate act as a binder and water as a solvent.
After padding the fabric is dried at 1000C & printed with the following recipe:
• Alkali resist Disperse Dye : 50 Parts
• Caustic Soda/Soda Ash : 50 Parts
• Glycerin : 100 Parts
• Polyethylene Glycol : 102 Parts
• Water : 18 Parts
 • Meyprogum : 600 Parts
––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
Total : 1000 Parts
After printing, the fabric is dried at 1100C and steamed for 5 minutes at 1800C with super-heated
steam.