(Afternoon) Tea Top
By: ichigogirl [Link]
I finished this top just in time to wear it to afternoon tea at the Grand Hotel, so, a Tea Top it is! I was inspired by Maryy:s black top Ou Bow with a white ruffled edge, this is my version :-). Its a fitted top with princess-seams, a draped bust and a little pleated satin-edge. I used lingerie-style hook- and eye-ribbon instead of a zipper in the back, theyre very easy to use and I think they add an interesting detail, that I just love. I made the pattern using Maryys How-to for the bust of the Hot Hot Heat-dress, and combined the resulting bust with my own pattern for a fitted top. I could probably have reached the same result by simply changing the pattern instead, but this was more hands-on and fun! How-to make the pleated trim: [Link] I have updated the instructions and included pictures 090827, they are now included in the print at home-file. Also blogged about <a target= _blank href= [Link] >HERE
Materials
Light wool, satin, hook- and eye-ribbon.
Step 1 Printing the pattern
I made the pages in A4-size, but they should come out right on other sizes of paper too if you make sure to choose don t scale when you print it. Measure the test-square if you re not sure. There is a pattern-assembly overview included in the instruction PDF that is now included in the pattern pdf (091119).
(Afternoon) Tea Top
Step 2 Size? Does it fit me? Measurements & alterations
The size is equivalent to Burdastyle sz 36 (In the shops I always buy size 34 though, so check your measurements to mine to be sure about the size). This pattern fits me (84cm bust, 67cm waist and 90cm hips, 165 cm tall, bra size 70B = 32B). The top is fitted, so you may need to alter the pattern to fit if your measurements differ from mine, but it should be a bit forgiving since the top-part is gathered. Alter the body in the side-seams and/or darts if necessary. Alter the top front in the middle of each cup and the back top-part in the same part as you ve altered the bottom back-part. Don t forget to alter the facing (pieces 5 and 6) if you alter the top-part of the pattern (pieces 3 and 4). Remember that if you need the top to be for example 2cm s wider, you only need to add 0,5cm s to the side seam or middle of each pattern-piece, as that adds up to 2cm in total.
Step 3 Materials you need
Zipper or hook-and-eye-ribbon. (about 40cm s long, depending on how long you want the top to be). Material for the top (about 60cm s should be enough, depending on fabric width). Satin for pleated detail, (4cm wide x about 2m s long) Thread Recommended fabrics: Light wool, cotton, silk and silk-, cotton- or wool-blends. Unsuitable for knits.
Step 4 Pattern pieces, list
All pattern pieces include 1.5 cm s seam allowance, as indicated on pattern. 1. Bodice front (cut 1, on fold) 2. Bodice back (cut 2) 3. Front yoke (cut 1, on fold) 4. Back yoke (cut 2) 5. Front facing (cut 1, on fold) 6. Back facing (cut 2) 7. Pleat detail (cut 1 strip of satin, 4cm s wide, with fabric grain running lengthwise, to about 2,5x the length of the top edge of the top = about 2m s)
Step 5 Preparations
Place pattern pieces on fabric, making sure grainline is correct. Cut pieces and transfer all markings to fabric. Apply lightweight interfacing to the wrong sides of the facings (if the fabric is loose or very thin and needs more stability). Don t interface the seam-allowances. Finish the edges of all pieces (zig-zag).
Step 6 Darts
Step 2 Size? Does it fit me? Measurements & alterations
Stitch the darts on the front piece and back piece.
Step 7 Preparing the front yoke
Stitch double lines for gathering about 3mm apart, just outside the side-seam-marks of the top part of the front yoke (piece no3). Use long stitches (5-6). Stitch two equivalent lines on each side of the center of the front yoke.
Step 8 Yoke side-seams
Pin the front yoke to the back yoke (the side-seams). Gather the side-seam-gathers on the front yoke to the same length as the back yoke piece side, tie a knot a each end of the gathers and distribute the gathers along the seam, pin and stitch. Remove the gathering-seams.
Step 9 Side seams
Pin the bottom piece and the front piece side-seams (piece no 1 and 2) and stitch.
Step 10 Center front gather
Gather the center front yoke gather to 5cm s, tie knots at each end of the gather to keep the threads from slipping and carefully stitch back and forth along the gather (in between the gathering-stitch-lines) a few times, between the two gather-threads. Remove the gathering-threads (the basting).
Step 6 Darts
Step 11 Sew the yoke to the bottom-pieces
Pin the bottom of the front yoke (piece no 3) and back yokes (piece no 4) to the top of the bodice front- and back piece (piece no1 and no 2) right sides facing and stitch. Make sure all the seams match up (the side-seams and the yoke/bottom-piece seams).
Step 12 Pleated trim
Make the pleated ruffle for the top (Instructions here: [Link] and pin it to the top of the front-pieces (the yoke-part), starting in the center front, in between the facing and the back pieces (make sure everything goes the right way after sewing, right sides should face each other with the pleat in between!). Stitch and turn the right way, so that the pleated ruffle s top part sticks out above the facing and fabric.
Step 13 Press seams
Press seam allowances open (not necessary next to the gathers). Press all the darts towards the center back (or in the direction theyre placed in the seams). Also press a fold along the seam-allowances of the center back, to make it easier to sew the zipper or hook-and-eye-ribbon in.
Step 14 Zipper/Hook-and-eye-ribbon
Pin the zipper or hook-and-eye-ribbon to the folded edge of the center back-pieces. Make sure it looks neat where the trim meets the zipper/hook/eye-ribbon. You can fold the end of the trim underneath the facing to hide the end if necessary. Stitch as close to the zippertooth/hooks and eyes as possible.
Step 15 Finish
Step 10 Center front gather
Top stitch along the pleated ruffle, on the right side, a couple of mm s from the edge of the top s fabric/the trim. Hem as desired (I used an invisable hem-stitch on my sewing machine, but you could just fold and stitch as you would on a blouse). Secure the facing to the side-seams, center-front and if necessary center back with a few stitches (by hand). Finished! (Just one more thing. please please please upload images of your creation on Burdastyle!)
(Afternoon) Tea Top
Step 15 Finish
