Lecture 4 settlements
- Wgat can we learn
o Historical information climatic and biological
o Location of natural reausoues especially oil
Iodp international ocean discovery program
Sediments are the memory of the ocean
- Change in sediment color can tell you changes
The planet is dynamic
- Constantly in a state of change
o Limate
o Biosphere
o Lithosphere
The sedimentyry rock record provides of the vaset changes expericed throughout the plantes history
What is the sedimentary marine recoored
Its like grain
Mud
It contains rock and dead organismsthat are eroded transported and deposited by a fluid
Orgainic matter sinks to the bottom
The highest points of sea floor sediments
Gulf of mexio also in india
Airborn dhust and colcanic ash also transporte terrigenous sediments form land to the ocean
- Ash from volcanic ash can be transported to the ocean floors
What is the most responsible for sediment creation
o Gravity
o Erostion
o Deposition
Energy of environment also controls particle sise which can be trandsorted offshore
Summer gentle waves
4types of sediment in the ocean
-terigenous seddiments
Biogenous sediments
Dover cliffs of chalk calicium calcium carbonate
Hydrogenous sediments precipated directly from seawater
Cosogenous sediments micro teckties tiny glassy particles resulting drom melting during metor impact
they are rare
Princlipple of super position
Principle of uniformitarisnsm
Gypsum laters at the bottom of mediterranean sea indates at one point the sea was alost closed off
from the Atlantic
Thse only get us relative ages who acem first home we might get absolute ages ?
Some sediments show annual cycle
Remerber radioactive elements are unstable decay
The half life is the amount of time for 50% of the radioative elemnt atoms to decay to ist daughter
product
We can also get the absolute ages of the basalt forming the ocean floor
Recap
Water is a polar molecule
The polar convalet cond between o and h tends to push electrons from h towards the o these are
intramolecular bonds
- Electrostatic interactions like charges repe, opposite attract.
- Some things like to shar elecetrons more than other molecues
The polar nature of water also makes a bery good dissolver of slats solvent
The polar nature also makes water adhere well to things
High surface tension
Heat is the total energy a substance has
Temperature is the average kinetic energy of the molecues of a substance
Heat capacity is how much eat one gram of a material can absorble before its temperature changes
by 1c
Water has one of the highest capacities of any known supstance
The reason hydrogen bonds in liquid water are strong enough that lots of hear bibrations energy is
required to diruped these bonds its takes a while to change water temperature its kinetic energy has
to be risen
Lecture 6 what is dissolved in the oceans and in what relative amounts how does
this change
What ar ethe sources oand sinks of co2 and o2 oceans and how do concentrations of these gasses
vary with depth
How does human activey impact
WATERS POLARITY MAKES IT GOOD SOLVENT FOR SALTS
A LOT of the salts of the ocean come from runoff from land erosion of continents via rain glacieers
rivers
Rivers contribute ca+2 and mbicrabinate maginsim and sodium
Seawater is different from river water
Negligible choride sulfate in riveres but oceans have lots
Oceanlack calcim, silcon , magnesium
The things that make them different is the processes for example the small bolife that exist
Undersea volcanic activity at midocean ridges adds chlorine sulfer carbon dioxide hydrogen fluorine
And strips magnism out
Divergent placts stripped pout seawater by fresh ocean crust at spreading centers hot rocks take it
and absorbe it it also takes calcuime and puts it into the water
Water is a nonconservative constituent
We have recyceled the ocean over a million times in the water cycle
What disoves oxygen nitrogen and c02
The amount of greenhouse gases that is in the atmosphere is 400 parts per million the keeling curve
it has risen 33 percent but 60 times more in the ocean than the air its important for ocean chemistry
The carbon cycle -----
Co2 from the atmosphere to the ocean atm
Co2 from the ocean to the atmosphere takes thousands of years
Oceans tend to act as a sink for the atmosphere carbon dioxde the take up carbon from atmosphere)
Dissolved carbon is not realative to life
The balance of dic determine ocewan ph
Bllow the ccd you dissolve calcium carbinate
Decrease of the ph 12 times
Lecture 7
Atmospheric circulation
1. Learn how eneven solar heating leainf to movement of air masses and resdistribution
2. Learn how the corilos effect causes defection of air masses
3. Learn global patterns of wind
Heat transfer conduction- by molecular agiatation with out mostion of the material as a whole
Convention- by mass motion in a fluid gas or liquid
Radiation- by particle(photons) or waves through empty space
Solar radiation heats the surface of th earth and drives convection in the atmosphere
The sun is constantly putting heat to earth but the eawrth is doing the same
Thermal equallirub:heat = heat out over long period of time 51% of income energy is absorbed by land
Importance in the greenhouse affect
Equating heat in with heat out we can calculate the so called effective timpature of
earth
About 30% of incoming light is releceted which give earth an effective temp -18 no atmospheric
But the actual acerage surface temperature on the eawth is 15c
This is due to the green house affect
The earths axis of rotation is titled at 25.5c relative to the plane of its orbit the sun
The amount of heat a point on the earth surface receives depends on the position the sun above the
horizion
1. Light is distributed over a larger area at the poles than at the equator
2. Light lifters through the atmosphere at the poles
3. Light approaches the surface at the low anlce at the poles favoring reflection
What happens if we have a net surplus at the equator and a net deficit at the poles
Heat is transferred by winds and ocean currents
Air pressure is the wight of the column of air above you air rises pressure decreases and then expands
And after it cools
Convection clouds form as air cools
The surface ocean at the equator is warmer so more water is ecaporatinf and the rising air has more
water vapor
Dry sinking air warms ,returns to the equator and picks up moister dry air sings about 30 drees latttuied
Warm moist air rises at the equator riand falls, dries our the air in the atmosphere
Hadley cell near equator
Three types of atmoshear circulation cells in each heim
Hadley cell tropics 0-30 north or south
Ferrel cell 30-60
Polar cell 60-90
The Coriolis affect the apparent defelction of a moving abk=ject from iits initial cours
Lecture 8 ocean circulation
Learingin goals
1.) Understand the connection between atmospheric circulation and surface ocean circulation
2.) Understand what forces are in balance to create gyres and understand wcharactires of water
mass movement around gyrs
3.) Differentiate between horizontal and vertical water massflow
4.) Understand the difference between elninio and el nina
5.) Understand what controls deep ocean circulation and where deep water form
Mas flowof ocean water
Friven by wind or gravity
2 main types of ocean currents
- Surface currents
o Driven by winds
o Affecst 10% of ocean volume
- Thermohalnine curents
o Depends on density differences couased by variation in temperature and salinity
o Affects all of the ocean volume
The ocean is layered due to density differences caused by
Usually temperature and sometimes salt
Surface
Pycniline
Deep zone
The corriolis effect is the samw for atmoshpear for the ocean
The gyres circulateclockwise in the northern hemispheare and counter clockwise in southern
They are ocean widecirularcurrent bouned by the continent westerly winds and the rade winds
Geostrofic gyers result from a balance of forces
1.) Wind friction in dicrection of wind
2.) Oriolis effect
3.) Pressure gradient effect – gravity opposing water pilling up downwind
The average movement for the whole colum of water is 90 degrees the right of the wind direction Ekman
transport why isn’t int perfect in theory?\
Its because it creates a pressure graidient betweenthe center and the outside that partially counteracts
the movement of this water towards the middle grvity pulls the water back down the slope
A hill of water is raised only2mhigh maintainedby wind energy
The net result is current flow at 45 degrees to the wind direction geostpohic gyeres are the balance
between corilis effect and pressure greadients
In the north hemthe westernedgeof the gyre is northbound current transporting warm water northward
Western boundary currents are fastest and deepest and are narrow 100k wide
Eastern bound currents carrycold water southward they are slower wide and shallower
Transferves currens link between east and west currnents
Tradewinds continually provide energy for the ocean
The centers of gyers are calm relatively little lifebut lots of plactic waste
Surface ocean current affect weather and climate
Along with winds surface ocean currents distributed tropical heat world wide
Warm water flowes to higher latitues transfers heat to the air and cools moves back to low
Low latitude waters gain hear cycle begins
There are vertical currnets unduced by the wind at contnetal edges
We have upwelling in California nutrient rich
Normal year
Trade winds blow e->w
High pressure off s.america and lowe pressure neawr austrailla
Wind driven equatartioal currnts push water west and develop pool of warmestwater in the world
Upwellingdeep water brings nutrience for fish
El nino warm water -> increase precipitation-> flooding -> landslife ->last one yeawr
Dense water is usually colder and saltier
31.1 is the average and the sigma is 7
Lecture 9 ocean waves
Goals
1.) Understand that waves transmit energy
2.) Learn how to relate wave speed to wavelength and water depth
3.) Learn what controls wave size
4.) Learn about different types of waves what creates them and what sustains them
Why do they occur
Waves form at the interface between 2 fluid layers of different denisities in response to applied
forces
They transmit energy not mass
Internal waves between water masses of different density
Energy is transported in waves
Wave energy travels ahead byt water and the gull do not
Individual water molecules do nmove a little in orbits
Waves have
- Crest
- Still water level
- Between crest is wavievlenth
- Tough is the bottom
The water particles have a orbital motion and orbit side decreawes wit size
Waves are flet to a depth of ½ of the distance of the wave lentght distance between crest
The energy is felt less the further you go down
Small net forward movement
C=L/T
C is speed L is wave length and t is period per sec
Disturbing forces vs restoring
Wind waves san deigo and gravity pulls down
Capillary and wind waves getenergy from the wind most wind waves are less than 3m high with
wavelengths of 60-150
Big waves starta as fast as really tiny waves
Jf the wind contineues to blow the waves will grow the max height of the wave
- Speed
Greater wind
Wind duration
Fetch
All will make larger waves
In the southern hem there is greatest wind hight because no land to interrupt so has greatest fetch
How big can waves get
Stables waves max is 1/7 of the length but they can be
To get a big wave u need 2 waves to interfere and come together
- Destructive
- Constructive
o Give rise to segtes of waves arrive at shore surf beat
Roge waves
Are rare exceptionallylarge waves that are result from contrucutve interference
Hurricane or big storm
The reason that hawwii has big waves deep land mass
Seiches has to do with closed water areas like lakes the great lakes
Triggered by pressure
Wind change
Earthquakes
- That last type of wave is a tynami
- Sesmic sea wave tiggred by earth quake
- Wave triggered by movement of sea floor
o Land slides also affect this
2004 earthquake and tsnami in Indian ocean
Tides are rythmic variation of sea level waves with periods of 12 or 24 hours
Goals
Learn the forces thatcreate tides
Equiuilalum theory of tides
Tides are caused by any imbalances between the gavitainoal attraction of the sun and moon on earth
Lets begin with the graveitationl pull of the moon on the earth
Theis explains the buldge of water towards to moon
How we explain the bulge away from the moon the two systems are moving
Coast is where land meets land
Coast ar active places and thus temporary features that represent dynamic balance between erosion of
rock deposistion of sediment
Sea water level
Tetonic plate activity
They change over time
Factoris that determine the location and nature of a coast
Euratatic global sea level
Erosion of rocks
Deposition of the sediments
Tectonic atvity
Biological activity
*a coast is a strip of land in which th effects of the ocean are felt while the shoreline is the boundary
beteeen them
Eurstatic sea level = Goblal average sea level
Amount of the liquid water can change more land ice in ice ages colcanic outgassing
Volume of the ocean basin container change plate motions rapid seafloor spreeding rapid sedimaention
Off conintentes
Water expansion/contraction
Water expands cooler contracst
As local changes from tectonic activity winds currnets storms
Its undistupitbal that global change has always happens since we have had oceans 4billions years
What does happen when we melt all the ice on the caps what would it look like 60m rise in sea level
And many coastal areas would be submerged if it raised one no more subways
Major sea level rise likey as anrarctic ice melts
“sea levels ae likeky to rise about 1.4m 4ft and 6inch global by 2100 as polar ice melts according to a
major review
Overshoerter time scales , coast are balance between erosion and depostition erosion- wave action
riveres long shore transport
Despostion wave action river longshore transport net gain
What do you notice about the processes
Eriosional coast deposition rates <erosion rates) can be composed of ignous metapmorephic or
sedimentaryrock wave action erodes rocks at shore line
Exposed old wave cut terraces on san clemente island off the coast of southerncalifornia tetonic uplift
And ersion explain their orgin
Depositional coast deoposition> erosion
Key to understand deposition the ability of water to moce sediment depends on its energy of motion
Faster water can move more sediment as water slows down sediment drops out and settles
Depositional beaches are where waves
Beaches form on depositional coast and they are temporary windter stome larger waves remove sands
to offshore
Longshore drift movement of sediment parallel to coast result from waves hitting at an angle reflec and
Or refecated
Sand splits sand bares barrier islands laggoos are te,poary featire justhappenng to be where the water is
Slow enough to be where the water is slow enough
Coastlines are temp features
No delta snanta anna river huningotn beach
Estuariars are important because they have food nuttirenst many habitatis and are nurseires for many
Species
Coaral reefs
Active reef formation in warm clear water 5-10m deep corals are killed by fresh water and murky
They like20-30 c and shallow marine water if temp changew much they die
Need clear ro do photo synthises
Narrow range of ph
Lecture 12 marine animals
Understand the great diversity of the life in the ocean and how it arose evlution by natural selectino
Learn the basic charateriscits of marine animals and when animals
Hames camrean on how scuba diving influenced him in the development of avatar there is great
diversity of life in the ocean where did it come from
Hydrpthermal vents they are located in the deeps of the ocean
The tree of life from molecular phylogenticcs 3 domains from gene sequencing
Eurakrotes mamles fnugu plants animals
Bactieria
Archaea have one common ancestor
How did such diversity develop
Some variations whith in a population are genetically basaed arising from random mutations
Rarely but most importantly some of thises variaitions will have a positive impact ona an individual
ability to survive and or reproduce
Energy and carbon sources for life
Autotrophes fix own carbin primary producres
Phototrophes land plants phytoplanktion some bacteria
Uses sunlight to produce cellular carbon from carbon diocied
Chemotrophes
Produce cellular c using chemilca energy energy rather than light
Methiantropic
Non photosynthetic
Hettrotrophes gaines energy by energy and c by feeding
Use carbon and includes all animals and hummans
Scientist infer from the facr that all life shares underlying mechanism for energy storage and transfer
making as using sugar atp
Storing genetic infor for cell function and reproduction dna
Protine and lipid
These mechanisms developed
Animals evolved when oxeegen became plentiful
Oxygen revultion 2 billion to 400 million years ago
Photosynthetic autotrophes cuassed rapid rise in the amount of oxygen in the air
Animals have arisim 900-600 mil ago after oxygen revolution
First animals arose in the oceans
Animals are
- Multicellular
- Hetotrphic
- Eurokarotes
Part of the biological diversity of the oceans results from the great diversity of habbit in the ocean- many
different wats to make a living with out competing for the same space
Not simply surivial of the strongest or fittest it depends on what feeding lifesyles or attributes makes a
particular orgaims competticce
Lots of marine habitate zones
- Zones in the ocean provide diverise hab
- Many ways to make a living in the ocean
o Benthic -bottom
o Pelagic- open ocean
o Nertic – near shore
- Others
o Photic
o Euphotic
o Disphotic
o Aphotic
Many organisms in the ocean are chemically and equillabrim with the water
1. They are ectotherms body T outside Temp
2. They are isotonic body salinity oceans salinity
3. Organisms that are endotherimic consant temp higher thatn surranding require lors more energy
but depend less on eviromental hear
4. Ecto cold blod endo warm
Proifera sponges the simplest animals
- Suspension feeders
- Nearly all 10,000 species are marine
- Wide distribution in depth and latitude
- No digestive circulatiton respiratory or nervous sytems
- Excreation and movement of gasses through diffusion
Cnidaria: stinging celled animals( coral, anemone, jellyfish)
- 9000 mostly marine species
- Cnidoblast – stringing cells on tentcales
- Carnivorous animals prey on larger zooplankton and small fish
- No excretory or circulatory stytem; primitive mervpis system
- Can live as medusa or sedentary polyps ofren in colonies
Must know 9 phyla of the amerine animal kingdom and some examples of each that exist today know
some of the basic facts about each one
Here------- >>>>
Understanding how the physical environment
The biosphere is made up of diffent ecological organization levels
A population is a group of organimsmi a;l made up of the same species
A community is a group of different population all sharing the same ecological space
Coral reef is a ecosystem and orgainsims living are a community
Biodiversity is the reange of species present in a community which not amount but range of species
In communities every member has
Physical location orafressing called a habitat
An occupation called niche or role but different jobs
Here everything sharehabite but each species has its unique niche
Each poluation in a community
Is it better to be able to a wide range of environments which fish has a better change of survival in a
variety of conditions
U want to have chararistics that let you live or survie in different habitats
Energy is not created or destyed its just moved in ecosystem food web energy non linar from
primary frpduces to apex predators
Everiomental conditions are rarely ideal the sum if the limiting facrors within an environment is
called eniromental resistanace
Human impact on the ocean lecture 14
Plastic as made In 1950s -1960s
At least 80 percent of ocean plastic comes from land based sources
How does trahs end up in the ocean
1. Rual areas without collection services
2. Urban areas lacking proper waste management infastuctutres
3. Urban areas where servies are oversstreached or too costly
4. Illegall dumping by trahs haulers
5. Use of dumpsides on waterways
Plastic in the ocean does not biodegradel
Biodegration = the breakdown of matter by organisms like bacteria and fungi into constituent parts
Microplsatics= particles of plastics less than 5mm in length = size of a sesame seeds
Every ocean basin has a large consitration of plastic
Gyers are constration of trash each hemisphere there is cycles
There are 5 plastic gyers
How does plastic impact marine life
1. Intesital injuery
2. Starvation
3. Reduced ability to feed
4. Choking
5. Entanglement
6. Illness due to chemical exposure
Sourves of marine pollution
- Runoff and discharges from land
- Airborn emissons
- Shipping spills
- Ocean dumping
- Offshore mining oil and gass
- Do not dump in drains
Oil plllution
- Human oil demand is approximately 1,000 gallons per second
- Leaks of refined oil especially damaging
- Lighter , bioactive commonets addictives are toxic carcinogenic
- Cleaning it up using detergetns to disperise oil may be as damaging or more so than the oil its
self
- Organic synthetic chemicals tce is found in the ocean
Chlorinates hydrocarbons synthetic chemicals
Pesitices DDT flame retarants solvents electrical insulation in transformers cleaning fluids
Posious declines in fertility suppressed immune system carcinogenic means cancer causing
It makes eggshells thin and so birds had thin shell eggs bird populations went down
DDT in fish
Florniated hydrocarbons sythectic orgainic chemicals
Teflon water proof make up microwave popcorn bags grease resistance food wrappers
PFAS manufacturing chemicasl found in people in blood brains and
Excessive nutrients eutrophication
Extrea nutrients from waste water treatment planst factors effluent accelerated soil erosion or
fertalizers spread on land
- Stimulated growth of some species to determine of other
- Depletes the free oxygen content of surface water hypoxica
We are not living sustaibality safe and just earth bourdires to stustain 8 billion ppl
Hotspots of current esb transgressions
Lecture 15
The main way to remove carbon of dioxide from the atmosphere is to dissolve it in the ocean
IPCC scientist dedicated to understand the climate
What we know now burning coal gass and oil produces co2
The natural greenhouse gas energy form the sun as uv and viable light reaches earth where some is
scattered abobut 1/3 and the rest is aborobed
Earth emits energy in the infared to space but some of this is absorbed by green hous ass
With out the atm our rtemp would be cold -13 cel we are at 18+ that is 43 percent more
This is called global warming potential
If a molecule absorbs strongly in the wavelengths where eath radiates energy
Change in global tempeture up by one 1c
2022 was the fith warmest year since 1880
Forcing vs response
Keeling curce shows carbon dioxide in atmosphere is increasing rapidly
20231.4 increase
1000 gigatons of carbon
Risk of species loss
How effective is c02 as a greenhouse as a gass this called golabl warming porential if a molecule
absorbs strongly in the wavlenths where earth reradiates energy and stays in the atmosphere. For a
long time then it will be effective
And that’s why the earth is warming
