table of contents

19 Bakers Gonna Bake: Kitchen Finds for Baking

Minds 29 From the Pantry: The Bundt Pan
Discover the history of the European-inspired
These pieces will help you successfully create but distinctly US-created Bundt pan and its many
beautiful spring bakes iterations that are beloved worldwide

21 Baker Spotlight: Love Baked into Every Bite

Susan and Laura Stachler, creators of
33 Baker Profile: Sweet Serenity
Betül Tunç, the creator of Turkuaz Kitchen, gives
Susansnaps, share their remarkable journey of us a glimpse behind her lens and a look inside the
how baking for cancer patients blossomed into creative process of her enchanting world
a thriving family business

23 From the Test Kitchen: Big on Buttermilk 39 Bread Box: Bountiful Buns
Two batches of allium-flavored breads bake up
Get to know this important ingredient and perfectly portioned in muffin tins
how to make substitutions for it in a pinch

25 Passed Down: Easter Cake 43 FLAVORS IN BLOOM

Britney Brown-Chamberlain spotlights a few of her
Bake from Scratch’s editorial director tells the favorite spring flavors in pistachio and rose cupcakes
story of her family’s favorite springtime cake and raspberry and white chocolate tiramisù
and the new way they’re now enjoying it

3 bake from scratch

47 BAKING SCHOOL IN-DEPTH:
PETIT FOURS
91 IF THE CHOUX FITS
This lighter-than-air pastry brings the sweet and
Master these elegant French mini cakes with savory marvels of a Parisian pâtisserie right to your
our step-by-step guide to baking, assembling, kitchen
and decorating
101 Origin of a Classic: Macarons

59 CRAZY FOR COCONUT

Get your fix of this tropical ingredient that we’ve
Explore the magic of these exquisite almond and
meringue cookies and how they gained global fame

generously used in all its forms in pillowy buns,

citrusy doughnuts, chocolaty bars, and creamy pie 107 Gold Standard: Your Childhood Dream Dessert
Made Better
Our Chocolate Chip Cookie Cake will have you
69 5 LEMON-POPPY SEED RECIPES
TO BAKE NOW
leaving your memories of those shopping mall
bakery versions permanently in the past

Enjoy crowd-pleasing cakes, bread, and pastry

featuring bright lemon paired with nubbly 109 Fast-Fix Baking: Spring’s Simplest Dessert
Sink your spoon into these sumptuous soufflé-like
poppy seeds Buttermilk-Orange Pudding Cakes

81 POUND CAKE PERFECTION

From fresh and fruity to creamy and chocolaty
113 Bake It Like Brian: Not-So-Petite Petit Four
Brian’s upsized loaf cake captures the look and
to crunchy and nutty, these Bundt, tube, loaf, taste of the bite-size originals and is perfect for
and charlotte pan cakes delight with every slice casual celebrations

march | april 2024 4

 ADVERTISING

BRAIDED BREAKFAST BREAD

Fluffy, soft bread with an airy crumb, courtesy of dough strengtheners in Platinum® Yeast from Red Star®, envelops
melty cheese, crispy bacon, and savory green onion in this stuffed loaf that’s guaranteed to put a smile on your face.
It’s the perfect portable breakfast, brunch, or snack, and even better, you can assemble it ahead and bake it the next day.
Makes 1 (13-inch) loaf 3. Switch to the dough hook attachment. Tuck and pinch last strip. (If dough is not
Beat at low speed until a soft, elastic, sticking to itself, dab a little water onto
Dough: tacky dough forms and pulls away from dough to help it seal.)
3 cups (380 grams) bread flour, sides of bowl, 8 to 10 minutes. Turn out 8. Transfer dough on parchment to a large
divided, plus more for dusting dough onto a clean surface, and shape baking sheet. Cover and let rise in a warm,
2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated into a smooth round. draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until puffed,
sugar 4. Lightly spray a large bowl with cooking 30 to 45 minutes. (Alternatively, braided
2½ teaspoons (7.5 grams) kosher salt spray. Place dough in bowl, turning to loaf can be covered and refrigerated
1 (0.25-ounce) package (7 grams) grease top. Cover and let rise in a warm, overnight. If refrigerated, let it come to
Platinum® Yeast from Red Star® draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until almost room temperature and then let stand until
½ cup (120 grams) whole milk doubled in size, 30 to 45 minutes. puffed before baking as directed.)
¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter 5. Punch down dough; let stand for 9. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
¼ cup (60 grams) water 5 minutes. Turn out dough onto a 10. In a small bowl, whisk together egg
1 large egg (50 grams), room lightly floured surface, and roll into a and 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water; brush
temperature 16x10-inch oval; transfer to a large piece on top and sides of dough.
of parchment paper. Using a small knife or 11. Bake until golden brown and an
Filling: bench scraper, lightly score a rectangle into instant-read thermometer inserted in
1½ cups (337 grams) whole-milk ricotta dough, leaving a 1½-inch border on short center registers 190°F (88°C), about
cheese sides and 3-inch border on long sides. 30 minutes. Let cool on pan for
¾ cup (68 grams) shredded white 6. For filling: In a small bowl, stir together 10 minutes. Remove from pan, and let
Cheddar cheese ricotta, Cheddar, egg, salt, black pepper, cool on a wire rack for 30 minutes.
1 large egg (50 grams) za’atar or thyme, and garlic powder until 12. In a small microwave-safe bowl,
¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt well combined. Spread evenly onto dough heat honey and red pepper on medium
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground black pepper within scored rectangle; sprinkle bacon until warm and fluid. Serve warm honey
¼ teaspoon za’atar or dried thyme and green onion onto cheese mixture. mixture with warm bread.
¼ teaspoon garlic powder 7. Cut dough into 1-inch-wide strips along
⅓ cup (30 grams) crumbled cooked each side of filling. At each end, trim dough
bacon (about 5 slices) to width of filling; fold each end over filling.
¼ cup (15 grams) finely chopped green Discard dough scraps. Starting on left side,
onion stretch and then fold top strip
over filling, ending just below
1 large egg (50 grams) opposite top strip. Repeat
1 tablespoon (15 grams) water with top strip on right
¼ cup (85 grams) honey side. Continue pattern,
¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper alternating left and
right, until you
1. For dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer, reach end.
whisk together 1½ cups (190 grams) flour,
sugar, salt, and yeast by hand.
2. In a medium saucepan, heat milk,
butter, and ¼ cup (60 grams) water
over medium heat until an instant-read
thermometer registers 120°F (49°C) to
130°F (54°C). Add warm milk mixture
to flour mixture; using the paddle
attachment, beat at medium speed
until combined. Add egg, beating until
combined. With mixer on low speed,
gradually add remaining 1½ cups
(190 grams) flour, beating just until
combined and stopping to scrape
sides of bowl.
 cookbook corner

FROM SCRATCH

Now & Then march | april 2024 Volume 10, Issue 2

EDITORIAL
Tuscany-based food
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Brian Hart Hoffman
writer Tessa Kiros’s
newest cookbook EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Nancy Meeks ADMINISTRATIVE SENIOR ART DIRECTOR
Tracy Wood-Franklin
ASSOCIATE EDITOR Amber Wilson
celebrates the ASSISTANT EDITOR Christina Fleisch SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Cailyn Haynes
joys of learning, SENIOR COPY EDITOR, FOOD Meg Lundberg ART DIRECTOR Liz Kight
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER Kile Pointer
traveling, and, of Britney Brown-Chamberlain
course, baking and SENIOR ST YLIST Sidney Bragiel
cooking. Of Finnish SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER ST YLISTS Maghan Armstrong, Courtni Bodiford,
John O’Hagan Maggie Hill, Donna Nichols
and Greek heritage, PHOTOGRAPHERS
Tessa has lived all over the world and has Jim Bathie, Kyle Carpenter, TEST KITCHEN DIRECTOR Laura Crandall
Stephanie Welbourne Steele FOOD ST YLISTS/RECIPE DEVELOPERS
acquired an impressive understanding Ola Agbodza, Aaron Conrad, Katie Moon Dickerson,
of international foodways and customs. SENIOR DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST Kathleen Kanen, Vanessa Rocchio, Amanda Stabile,
Delisa McDaniel Izzie Turner
Including stories of her travels and TEST KITCHEN ASSISTANT/PREP COOK
personal memories, this cookbook is Madison Harvel
much more than just a collection of
recipes. Intriguing recipes like Biscotti
Della Salute, “biscuits of health,” with
D I G I TA L M E D I A A D M I N I S T R AT I V E
muscadines and red wine, Granadilla
MARKETING COORDINATOR Morgan Barbay PRODUCTION/CIRCUL ATION MANAGER
“passion fruit” Cake, and more are SENIOR DIGITAL EDITOR Courtney duQuesnay Samantha Sullivan
waiting to be savored. DIGITAL DESIGNER Stephanie Lambert EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT Charlotte Gibens
DIGITAL EDITOR Stephanie Welbourne Steele

[Link]/now_and_then

I N T E G R AT E D M A R K E T I N G S O LU T I O N S

REGIONAL ADVERTISING DIRECTORS MARKETING DIRECTOR Lindsay Jones Edmonds

Snacking Christy Chachere Lohmann [AL, AR, LA, MS, TX] EVENT MARKETING MANAGER Mandy Pettit
Mary-Evelyn Dalton [DC, KY, MD, NY, VA, WV]
Bakes: Simple
ADVERTISING PRODUCTION REPRESENTATIVE
Julie Goering [FL, GA, NC, SC, TN] Kimberly Lewis
Recipes for GRAPHIC DESIGNER Kile Pointer
Cookies, Bars, For assistance with advertising, please call (888) 411-8995.
Brownies,
Cakes, and
More
Yossy Arefi,
cookbook author, FOUNDER Phyllis Hoffman DePiano
(1953–2023)
photographer, and
PRESIDENT/CEO Eric W. Hoffman PRESIDENT/CCO Brian Hart Hoffman
writer of the
EVP/COO Greg Baugh VP/TECHNOLOGY Matthew Scott Holt
Apt. 2B Baking Co. blog, delivers her EVP/CCO Brooke Michael Bell VP/HUMAN RESOURCES AND ADMINISTRATION
third delectable cookbook. Within EVP/CMO Missy Polhemus Judy Brown Lazenby
EVP/CFO Laura Sappington VP/ADVERTISING Amy Robertson
the pages of this book, you’ll find
VP/MARKETING Kristy Harrison
approachable recipes that are almost all
made in an hour or faster. Satisfy your
craving easily with a helpful chart at the EDITORIAL & ADVERTISING OFFICE SUBSCRIPTION CUSTOMER SERVICE
front of the book that guides you to 2323 2nd Avenue North Bake from Scratch, PO Box 5002
Birmingham, AL 35203 Boone, IA 50950
your perfect bake, be it chocolaty like Email: bakefromscratch@[Link] Email: bakefromscratch@[Link]
Malted Chocolate Cookies or fruity like Phone: (205) 995-8860 Phone: (888) 647-7304

Strawberry Lime Almond Cake. Bake from Scratch ISSN 2472-0089 is published bimonthly by Hoffman Media, LLC, 2323 2nd Avenue North, Birmingham, AL 35203. The cover and contents of
Bake from Scratch are fully protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced in any manner without prior written permission. All rights reserved in all countries.
Subscription Rates: For the United States, $39.95 per year, 6 issues, add $10 for postage in Canada, add $20 elsewhere. Single issue $14.99 available at newstands and bookstores.
Periodicals postage paid in Birmingham, Alabama, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Bake from Scratch, PO Box 5002, Boone, IA 50950.
[Link]/books ©2024 Hoffman Media, LLC. Printed in the USA.

7 bake from scratch

 EXPERTLY TESTED RECIPES
FEATURING PREMIUM INGREDIENTS

We pride ourselves on the finest recipes, and BelGioioso®

Cheese helps us get there one ingredient faster. Whether
you’re snacking, cooking, or baking, they provide unmatched
premium Italian-style cheeses. From bold, flavor-filled aged
varieties to soft, creamy, fresh spreadable cheeses, BelGioioso®
brings the JOY by providing excellence in every bite.

There’s something about a homemade treat that puts a smile

on our faces, and that’s exactly why Bonne Maman is our
go-to for preserves and fruit spreads. Made with simple and
natural ingredients of the finest quality, Bonne Maman’s
wide variety of fruit preserves, jellies, and artisan spreads
The recipes in each issue pass through ensures our from-scratch recipes taste fresh.
the Bake from Scratch test kitchen.
Each is flavorful and distinctive
and developed with your
kitchen success in mind.

These products are partners of Whether we’re creating a simple cookie or laminated pastry,
C&H® Sugar is a staple in our test kitchen. Their granulated,
Bake from Scratch magazine and brown sugar, and powdered sugar are perfect for all types of
used exclusively in our recipes. baked goods, and we know we can count on C&H® Sugar to
provide the perfect sweet balance with every grain.

When using Red Star® yeast in our recipes, we can rest easy
knowing we have a reliable product to take our breads from
ordinary to sensational. No matter the type of yeast,
Red Star® provides consistent performance to make all
our yeasted bakes a success.

With their commitment to producing a superior product,

Schermer Pecans are the only pecans we bake with. This
family-run company oversees every activity on their
orchards, from growing and harvesting to packaging and
shipping to ensure fresh taste and quality for maximum
crunch and flavor.
 HAPPENINGS
Stay connected with all the ways our baking world turns.

baking retreats
Reserve Your Spot Now for Fall
Baking Retreats
Do you get our newsletter, PreHeat? Immerse yourself in the culture of
These weekly emails are the best way to stay southern France and walk the streets
current with all things Bake from Scratch. of the autumn markets in Nice and
Aix-en-Provence this September.
Subscribe now at Enjoy perfect weather as you learn
[Link]/newsletter-signup. to make French classics like gibassier,
calisson, and other local treats. You
can also join Bake from Scratch at
our headquarters in Birmingham,
Alabama, in October for our Fall
Baking Retreat with Erin Jeanne
McDowell, who will be joining us for
her second time as an instructor.
Meet members of our editorial team
and bake inside our test kitchen,
where our recipes come to life.
Register for current retreats, join
the waitlist for sold-out retreats,
and sign up to be notified of future
retreats at [Link]/
baking school baking-retreats.
You don’t have to leave the comfort
of your home to become a better
baker. Join Bake from Scratch and
Willliams Sonoma live on Monday
nights for our online Baking School Special Guests for Spring Episodes
classes. Each class is devoted to one the In the latest episodes of Bake from Scratch’s
or two recipes so you can see the
entire process from start to finish CRUMB podcast, The Crumb, baking extraordinaire
Erin Jeanne McDowell joins Brian Hart
while being able to chat virtually Hoffman for a chat about all things pie and tells
with Brian Hart Hoffman, guest us about her most recent cookbook, and Laura
instructors, and other attendees. Cortes of Chubbee Kitchen tells us about her
Plus, you gain access to a private next One Book/Two Months challenge where
Facebook group for Baking School she bakes her way through an entire cookbook in just two months.
participants.
Listen to new episodes and catch up on previous episodes at
Purchase tickets at [Link] or wherever you get your podcasts.
[Link].

Follow us on social media

thebakefeed bakefromscratch bakefromscratchmagazine
for daily baking inspiration.

9 bake from scratch

 from the editor

Baking Season
Is Year-Round
As we emerge from winter’s cozy baking mood, spring greets us
with a complete shift in how we bake. The lightness that makes
itself known with longer days translates to the recipes we crave.
This issue reflects that sentiment on every page. I often talk
about different “baking seasons” as we move though the year,
so humor me, and you’ll see the recipes on the following pages
as an homage to my seasonal calendar of cravings and baking
moods—“pound cake season,” “baking with buttermilk season,”
“strawberry season,” and my never-ending “French baking
season.” Some of these seasons overlap for obvious reasons,
like roasted strawberries in a buttermilk pound cake.

One flavor profile that seems to never fall out of craving is

lemon-poppy seed—arguably one of the power couples we all
need in our baking world. From an elegant layer cake (with
lemon curd between the layers) to cookies made with ricotta
(that texture!) and a streusel-topped loaf, there’s a recipe for
every occasion.

Speaking of occasions, Nancy Meeks (editorial director of

Bake from Scratch) shares her from-scratch redo of “the Easter
cake” that is loved and enjoyed by her family each year . . . and
yes, they call it Easter cake any day of the year they make it—
and that is a season I can believe in.

I already mentioned my never-ending “French baking season,”

and much like Nancy’s family . . . that’s a season I can believe
in. In this issue, we share an exceptional and super-detailed
guide so you can make beautiful Petit Fours, just like the ones
you see in bakery cases. In our If the Choux Fits feature, you’ll
find four recipes that utilize the base dough for iconic French
pastries such as Paris-Brests, gougères, and more.

The other season that never goes out of style? Travel season.
My previous career as a flight attendant keeps this passion alive.
My journey as a baker began as I traveled the world as a flight
attendant, tasted amazing pastries, and wanted to re-create
them at home for my family and friends. I now have a pinch-me
moment every time I travel with bakers on our baking retreats
to learn about and explore cultures around the world through
the flavors, people, and techniques that make them special.
 A Look Back at Our 2023 Baking
Retreats & Where We’re Heading
in 2024
Last year, 2023, was a record year for Bake from Scratch, in
which we held 13 baking retreats—more than ever before. Our
first retreat was in February with a weekend full of bread-baking
in our test kitchen in Birmingham, Alabama. Participants learned
the ins and outs of baking with yeast, and recipes included milk
bread using the tangzhong method, a “do-it-all” dough that
works for sweet and savory bakes, quick croissants, and Southern
laminated biscuits. We also welcomed bakers to our test kitchen
in March for a retreat devoted to all things cake. Cookbook
author, TV host, culinary instructor, and Bake from Scratch
contributor Zoë François joined me to demonstrate techniques
and tips to bake Roasted Strawberry Bundt Cake, Raspberry

11 bake from scratch

Charlotte Royale, and Cherry-Pecan and Devil’s Food with baked fruits and vegetables into crispy-crusted pizza, stone fruit
Whipped Milk Chocolate Mascarpone and Swiss Meringue layer galette, and berry snack cake from guest instructor and 2023
cakes; how to create a bombe cake; and how to torch meringue. Bake from Scratch contributing editor Jessie Sheehan. In August,
I led a group on an adventure to my former home of Alaska!
You all know I can’t stay home for too long, so in May, I packed From Anchorage, we ventured to Homer, Seldovia, and Tutka
my bags for sun-drenched Italy for our first international baking Bay by air, land, and sea, and mother-daughter duo of Kirsten
retreat of the year. This hands-on retreat gave participants and Mandy Dixon of Within the Wild adventure company took
inside access to Italian home bakers and a deep immersion in us foraging for edible wild mushrooms, herbs, and berries, which
Italy’s culinary culture. We began and ended the retreat in we baked into sourdough breads, piecrusts, and desserts; we also
Milan, with time spent in the Piemonte, along the Italian Riviera, harvested sea salt and sea kelp and sampled locally brewed mead
and in picturesque Tuscany. Local guides took us on tasting and wild berry wines.
tours of bakeries and wineries throughout the areas as well as a
hazelnut farm, and we rolled up our sleeves for lessons in biscotti, The first of our three retreats for the fall gave me the opportunity
panforte, baci de dama, and budino, much of which we enjoyed to introduce a group of bakers to France, one of my favorite
after making our own lunches of pici pasta, zuppa inglese, grissini, places on Earth. During September’s Paris and Burgundy retreat,
and other favorites of Italian home cooking. bakers immersed themselves in traditional apple and pear pastries,
including macarons, chouquettes, Chausson aux pommes, Gâteau
Summertime retreats focused on incorporating fresh local Normande, and Charlotte aux Poires at La Cuisine Paris, and
ingredients into seasonal bakes. In July, we held another weekend prepared elegant gougères, soufflés, filet de bœuf, tarte Tatin, and
of baking at our test kitchen in Birmingham, where attendees madeleines at The Cook’s Atelier.

march | april 2024 12

 We had three retreats in October: two in San
Francisco and California Wine Country and a fall
baking-focused retreat in Birmingham. The California
retreats began in San Francisco with a visit to the
flagship Williams Sonoma store and a baking session
of apple scones and pumpkin bread. Next, we headed
to the Culinary Institute of America’s Copia campus
and the Chuck Williams Museum in Napa, followed
by visits to the original Williams Sonoma store in
Sonoma and the Artisan Baking Center at Central
Milling in Petaluma. Pie-baking queen Erin Jeanne
McDowell was the guest instructor for our Fall Baking
retreat, where she showed participants step-by-step
how to create a showstopping lattice apple pie, and
we also baked our way through an invisible apple cake,
pumpkin spice roulade, and pear-vanilla scones.

The last retreats of the year were all about the

holidays. November brought our last group of bakers
to the Bake from Scratch test kitchen for the year
for cutout sugar cookies perfect for decorating, a
gorgeous braided gingerbread wreath, and an epic
bûche de Noël. In December, I returned to France
for the holiday magic of Paris and Strasbourg. We
began our time with baking classes at La Cuisine Paris
and then headed to Strasbourg to explore its famed
Christmas markets filled with vin chaud, flammekueche,
spätzle, and bretzels, as well as baked mini sucre kouglofs
at Cuisine Aptitude. We also visited Le Palais du Pain
d’Épices (the gingerbread palace) to decorate mannele,
a specialty man-shaped bread of the region, and toured
picturesque Alsatian villages.

I’d like to thank the sponsors of our 2023 retreats:

BelGioioso®, Bonne Maman®, C&H Sugar, Nordic
Ware, Red Star® Yeast, Schermer Pecans, and Williams
Sonoma. We love sharing your amazing ingredients and
products with our bakers.

I can’t wait for you to see what we have in store for

2024. Turn to page 28 for information on how you can
join me on a baking retreat of a lifetime!

Brian Hart Hoffman Join a 2024

Editor-in-Chief Baking Retreat

13 bake from scratch

 recipe index

BARS AND COOKIES Rose Cupcakes with Pistachio Chocolate Chip

Chocolate Hazelnut Macarons 106 Frosting 45 Cookie Cake
Coconut Magic Bars 66 Strawberry Petit Fours 52 page 107
Lemon-Poppy Seed Hamantaschen 78 Vanilla-Lemon-Poppy Seed Layer PHOTOGRAPHY BY

Lemon-Poppy Seed-Ricotta Cookies 74 Cake 71 KYLE CARPENTER

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY
White Chocolate Raspberry AMANDA STABILE
BREADS Tiramisù 45 FOOD STYLING BY

Braided Breakfast Bread 5 AARON CONRAD

STYLING BY
Coconut-Orange Tiger Tails 64 DOUGHS MAGGIE HILL
Coconut Skoleboller 61 All-Butter Pie Dough 67
Lemon-Poppy Seed Streusel Bread 79 Choux Pastry Dough 96
Roasted Garlic-and-Caramelized Onion Strawberry Craquelin Dough 97
Focaccia Rolls 42
Sesame-and-Green Onion Knots 41 FILLINGS, FROSTINGS, AND Whipped Cream Frosting 27
TOPPINGS White Chocolate Poured Fondant 52
CAKES Almond Buttercream 51
Budapest Roll 38 Blueberry Filling 27 MISCELLANEOUS
Buttermilk-Orange Pudding Cakes 110 Coconut-Orange Glaze 64 Candied Meyer Lemon Slices 75
Chocolate Chip Cookie Cake 107 Coconut Pastry Cream 61 Praline Paste 100
Easter Cake 27 Cream Cheese Glaze 74 Roasted Strawberries 97
French Marble Pound Cake 84 Hazelnut-Chocolate Ganache 106
Irish Cream Pound Cake 88 Hazelnut Crunch Ganache 84 PASTRIES
Meyer Lemon Olive Oil and Poppy Seed Poured Strawberry Fondant 52 Chouquettes 96
Cake 75 Praline Crème Mousseline 100 Gougères 96
Peanut Butter Cookie Cake 83 Roasted Strawberry Mascarpone Whipped Roasted Strawberry Choux au Craquelin 97
Persian Love Pound Cake 88 Cream 97 Strawberry-Praline Paris-Brests 100
Petit Four Loaf Cake 113 Strawberry Fondant Glaze 113
Petit Fours 51 Vanilla Buttercream 71 PIES
Roasted Strawberry Pound Cake 90 Vanilla Buttercream 107 French Coconut Pie 67

credits
Page 21—Photos courtesy of Susan Stachler.

15 bake from scratch

 ADVERTISING

FIG MAAMOUL
Delicious California-grown Sun-Maid
and Orchard Choice Figs are the star
of Fig Maamoul, traditionally made with
dates. The cookie dough needs to rest
several hours, preferably overnight, after
kneading so the semolina absorbs the Make the Filling
moisture and increases in size.
1. In a food processor pulse figs and
Makes 16 cookies pistachios into crumbs. Set aside. Shape and Bake
6. To shape cookies with a
Recipe and photo by Esra Mese Make the Cookie Dough maamoul mold, roll 1 tablespoon
2. In a large mixing bowl, add semolina. of dough into a ball. Slightly flatten it
Filling Pour in melted butter and oil. Mix well. with your hands. Press it into the bottom
6 ounces Orchard Choice or Sun-Maid Knead until it resembles a shaggy dough. and up the sides of the mold.
Mission Dried Figs Cover with plastic wrap and rest dough 7. Roll 1 teaspoon of filling into a ball.
2 ounces pistachios for at least 4 hours;* overnight is best. Slightly flatten and gently press it into
3. Once ready to bake, preheat oven to the dough in the mold. Take 1 teaspoon
Cookie Dough 450°F. Line a sheet pan with parchment of dough and press it on top, sealing it
11⁄2 cups fine semolina flour paper. and not leaving any gaps of dough.
5 tablespoons melted unsalted butter 4. In a small bowl, mix yeast, sugar, and 8. Turn your mold and tap it firmly onto
(or ghee) warm water. Bloom yeast for 5 minutes. the parchment-lined sheet pan until
1⁄4 cup vegetable oil 5. Transfer rested semolina mixture to the cookie falls out. Bake for 12 to
2 teaspoons instant yeast the bowl of a stand mixer, outfitted with 13 minutes or the edges are slightly
1 teaspoon granulated sugar a paddle attachment. In a separate bowl, brown. Remove from the oven and
3 tablespoons warm water whisk all-purpose flour, powdered sugar, cool to room temperature. Dust with
1 cup all-purpose flour and baking powder for 30 seconds. Add powdered sugar and pistachios.
3⁄4 cup powdered sugar whisked ingredients to the stand mixer
1⁄4 teaspoon baking powder bowl. Mix well on low speed. Add milk, *This step is crucial because it allows the
1⁄4 cup milk vanilla, and yeast mixture. Mix until it semolina to absorb the moisture and
1 teaspoon vanilla extract forms into a smooth dough, a few minutes. increase in size.
 bakers gonna bake

1 Nordic Ware
Pound Cake and
KITCHEN 1
Angel Food Pan
Calling all tube cake fans—this pan is
FINDS FOR for you! The smooth edges and cast
aluminum material ensure that all

baking
your bakes turn out evenly browned
and easily release from the pan
thanks to its nonstick coating. And

minds
with its 18-cup capacity, you can
bake the heftiest pound cakes and
the tallest angel food cakes without
worry of overfilling your pan. Ready
to get baking with it? Turn to page
90 for our Roasted Strawberry
Pound Cake.

2
2 GIR Mini Spoonula
This multipurpose kitchen utensil
scrapes, scoops, spreads, and serves
and moves effortlessly between
baking and cooking, sweet and
savory. It combines the everyday
utility of a spatula with the curved
bowl of a spoon to get in all the
nooks and crannies of your small
bowls, narrow cans, and jars.
Available in four colors, this silicone
spoonula is safe to use with nonstick
bakeware and cookware, is heat-
resistant up to 550°F, resists stains
and odors, and is dishwasher-safe.

Zwilling Enࡼnigy
3
3

Digital Kitchen Scale

Bakers have long valued the
accuracy of a kitchen scale. It’s
the easiest and fastest route to
precise measurements that yield
consistent, successful results. This
sleek, cordless, rechargeable digital
scale features touch control and a
hidden display when powered off.
A handy tare function allows you to
factor in the weight of your bowl or
other container, and you can toggle
between grams, ounces, and pounds.
Plus, the large, sealed glass surface
Grab these finds and more at [Link]/pantry. is easy to clean so you can weigh
ingredients directly on the scale.

19 bake from scratch

BAKE THE BEST bundt ! ORDER
NOW

You’ve been asking for more

Bundts, and I am here for
you! Through the years, I’ve
heard countless stories of
your deep-rooted adoration
for the Bundt. So many of
you, like me, have shared
memories of a perfectly
curved cake under a dome of
glass, beckoning you to reach
in and cut a slice.

That’s why I’m excited to

announce Another Bundt
Collection—because you can
never bake too many Bundts!

3 EASY WAYS TO ORDER

[Link]/ANOTHERBUNDT

800-361-8059

SHOP OUR ENTIRE

BAKE FROM SCRATCH COLLECTION AT
[Link]/SHOP.
Cream Cheese Lemon Chocolate Cream Cheese
Pound Cake Pound Cake Pound Cake 83PBU23
 baker spotlight

SUSANSNAPS:
LOVE BAKED
INTO EVERY BITE

How baking cookies for family members going through

cancer treatment created a thriving business for mom
Laura Stachler and her daughter, Susan

What inspired you to start baking these L&S: Our cookies are crisp and light in shaped! During the holidays, it can be as
cookies? texture yet rich and warm in flavor from many as 10,000 cookies a day, and our
Susan Stachler: A week before my ginger, cinnamon, cloves, and molasses. Susansnaps record is 16,000 in a day. Our
college graduation, at age 22, I was We top them with sparkling sugar, which original Susansnaps are our best seller, but
diagnosed with Hodgkin’s lymphoma, gives them just the right snap! over the years, we’ve added chocolate,
the same cancer my aunt Susan, whom lemon, Key lime, toasted coconut, peanut
I’m named for, died from at age 28. I How did your business grow from baking butter, and seasonal flavors. It’s a lot of
moved back home to begin treatment, for your support group to where it is today? fun being together in the kitchen creating
and extraordinarily, my dad and I went SS: Mom and I started Susansnaps out new recipes!
through chemo within the same year of our family house. My parents had a
and, at times, alongside each other. detached garage that my mom converted Can you tell us about your book, The
into a commercial kitchen to start a small Cookie Cure?
Laura Stachler: I learned that ginger dessert catering company. She baked SS: This book isn’t just about cookies; it’s
is a stomach soother—and, of course, heavenly cakes and pies, but we sold more about how the simple idea of providing
homemade cookies always make things a Susansnaps than anything else during our comfort and smiles during a hard time
bit better—so I started baking gingersnaps first holiday season. Once we figured out turned into something bigger than we ever
for them, which I coined Susansnaps after how to package and ship the cookies, we imagined. The book shares our journey,
my sister and my daughter. Susan and her were able to sell coast to coast—Alaska and my mom, in letters to her late sister
dad shared the cookies with their fellow and Hawaii included! weaves our story together from chapter
cancer buddies. Word of the cookies spread to chapter. We hope it brings a smile,
among family, friends, and neighbors, and LS: We eventually found a hole-in-the- a bit of inspiration, and maybe even a
a beautiful business was born. wall space that we turned the front of into craving for cookies to those who read it.
a retail shop for our cookie company, and
What makes your gingersnaps different our bakery is in the back. We bake about Visit [Link] for more information.
from other recipes? 5,000 gingersnaps a day—all hand-

21 bake from scratch

from the test kitchen
Originally, buttermilk was the liquid
left behind after butter had been
churned from fresh milk. Since
the fat was removed as butter, the
remaining milk was essentially low-fat
Get to or nonfat. Natural cultures would
then take over, souring the buttermilk
know this and creating its characteristic flavor.
indispensable Today, most commercial buttermilk is
baking elixir cultured, similar to yogurt, by adding
microorganisms to nonfat, low-fat, or
whole milk.

When it comes to whole buttermilk,

BIG ON the higher fat content may lead to a

richer product; however, buttermilk
is most often chosen for baking for

BUTTERMILK
its high acidity. Acids react with
baking soda in recipes, causing carbon
dioxide production and subsequent
leavening of baked goods. Thus, low-
fat and whole buttermilk can often
be used interchangeably without
great differences in the final product.
Whole buttermilk is more frequently
found in the southernmost states of
the US, but if you are unable to find
whole buttermilk, it can be replaced
with low-fat buttermilk or one of
the substitution recipes that follows.

Nonfat buttermilk, as it reads, does

not contain fat. In baking, you’ll most
often see recipes calling for low-fat
and whole buttermilk rather than
their leanest counterpart. When fat is
completely removed from buttermilk,
the acid from the buttermilk is
front and center and may cause
curdling in egg-based recipes, such
as custards. When using low-fat
and whole buttermilk, the available
fat acts as a buffer by coating egg
proteins, making them less likely to
form lumps and clumps. Be careful
when substituting nonfat buttermilk
for low-fat or whole buttermilk,
especially with egg-based recipes.
 MAKE YOUR OWN
Buttermilk is favored for the tenderness and tang it gives
baked goods, but don’t let a lack of it sour your baking plans.
Some resourceful replacements can save the day.

SOUR CREAM OR LEMON JUICE OR

YOGURT + WATER VINEGAR + MILK
In a small bowl, whisk together ¾ cup (180 In a liquid-measuring cup, combine ¾ cup
grams) full-fat sour cream or plain yogurt plus 3 tablespoons (225 grams) whole milk
(regular or Greek style is OK) and ¼ cup and 1 tablespoon (15 grams) fresh lemon juice
(60 grams) water to equal 1 cup (240 grams) or distilled white vinegar to equal 1 cup
buttermilk. The amount of water needed (240 grams) buttermilk. Let it stand for
to achieve buttermilk consistency can vary 5 minutes before using.
depending on the thickness of the sour cream
or yogurt.

march | april 2024 24

passed down

EASTER CAKE BY NANCY MEEKS A spring holiday dessert

adored year-round

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KYLE CARPENTER

NANCY MEEKS
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY
FOOD STYLING BY AARON CONRAD
STYLING BY MAGGIE HILL
I
n my family, we have a dessert that’s
known simply as Easter cake, and we all
immediately know what it is and how good
it tastes. In 1975, my dad was working as the
choir director of West End Baptist Church
in Clanton, Alabama, and the congregation
loved to have ice cream socials after church,
not just during the summer but year-round.
A choir member named Ruth Ellison-Moore
brought the cake to a social, and my mom
loved it. Ruth was a hairdresser, so Mom
made an appointment at her salon, and Ruth,
who called the recipe blueberry cake and
knew it by heart, dictated the recipe to Mom
while she got her hair cut.

When my sister and I were growing up, Mom

would make Ruth’s blueberry cake—always
decorated with edible pansies in shades of
purple, yellow, and white to echo the cake—
for our big family lunch after church every
Easter, but the cake often showed up in
summertime, too. Yet no matter the occasion
or time of year the cake was made, we always
called it the Easter cake—and nearly 50
years later, we still do.

Like a lot of recipes from the ’70s, a

few of the cake’s original ingredients are
convenience products, but I didn’t let that
stop me in creating a fully from-scratch
version. I had a lot of fun sharing my
iterations with my family and making sure
everyone gave their approval of this new
take on it.

My mom recently reconnected with Ruth

through her daughter, who said Ruth is now
retired, doing well, and is still well known
among church members and friends for her
cakes, peach bread, and pies. I’ll be sharing
my version of her cake with her, and I hope it
has a legacy as long and loved as the original.

Have an heirloom family recipe you’d like to share?

Send us details at bakefromscratch@[Link].
 EASTER CAKE shiny peaks form, about 1 minute. (Do 2½ cups (600 grams) cold heavy
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake not overbeat.) Transfer egg white mixture whipping cream
to another medium bowl; return bowl to ½ teaspoon vanilla bean paste (3 grams)
This cake’s batter is a hybrid of a traditional stand mixer. or vanilla extract (2 grams)
butter cake and a sponge cake, which 5. Switch to the paddle attachment.
re-creates the light and airy crumb of a Add flour mixture to mixer bowl; with 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
boxed cake mix but is tall and sturdy enough mixer on low speed, gradually add butter with the paddle attachment, beat cream
to hold a fruit filling and a generous layer mixture, beating just until combined, cheese, sugar, and salt at medium speed
of frosting. Plus, the cake gets better and about 15 seconds; scrape bottom until thick, smooth, and creamy, stopping
better after it’s made. and sides of bowl and paddle. Beat at to scrape bottom and sides of bowl and
medium speed until thick, smooth, paddle. With mixer on medium-low
2½ cups (313 grams) cake flour* and well combined, about 30 seconds. speed, add cold cream in a slow, steady
1¾ cups (350 grams) granulated sugar, Fold in one-third of egg white mixture stream, beating just until combined.
divided until almost combined. Gently fold in Thoroughly scrape bottom and sides of
1¼ teaspoons (6.25 grams) baking remaining egg white mixture until no bowl and paddle.
powder white streaks remain. Divide batter 2. Switch to the whisk attachment.
¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt between prepared pans, smoothing with Add vanilla paste or extract, and beat
¼ teaspoon (1.25 grams) baking soda an offset spatula. Tap pans on a kitchen at medium-low speed until combined.
10 tablespoons (140 grams) unsalted towel-lined counter 6 to 8 times to Gradually increase mixer speed to high,
butter, melted and slightly cooled release air bubbles. beating until thick, fluffy, stiff peaks
¼ cup (56 grams) vegetable or canola 6. Bake until edges are lightly browned form. Use immediately.
oil and a wooden pick inserted in center
1 tablespoon vanilla bean paste comes out clean, about 20 minutes. Let BLUEBERRY FILLING
(18 grams) or vanilla extract cool in pans on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Makes about 1¾ cups
(12 grams) Remove from pans, gently remove
¾ cup (180 grams) whole buttermilk, parchment, and let cool completely on a 2½ cups (315 grams) fresh blueberries,
room temperature wire rack. divided
6 large egg yolks (112 grams), room 7. Level cooled cake layers, if desired. 6 tablespoons (72 grams) granulated
temperature Place 1 cake layer on a serving plate. sugar
3 large egg whites (90 grams), room 8. Transfer 1½ cups (265 grams) Whipped 1 tablespoon (15 grams) fresh lemon
temperature Cream Frosting to a pastry bag fitted juice
⅛ teaspoon cream of tartar with a large round piping tip. Pipe a Pinch kosher salt
Whipped Cream Frosting (recipe follows) border of frosting around edge of cake 1 tablespoon (8 grams) cornstarch
Blueberry Filling (recipe follows) layer. Spread half of Blueberry Filling 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water
Garnish: fresh blueberries, edible flowers within frosting border. Pipe remaining
frosting in bag onto filling; gently spread 1. In a small saucepan, bring 1¾ cups
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). smooth with an offset spatula. Top with (238 grams) blueberries, sugar, lemon
Spray 2 (9-inch) round cake pans with remaining cake layer. Spread remaining juice, and salt to a boil over medium-
baking spray with flour. Line bottom of frosting on top and sides of cake, creating high heat, stirring frequently until sugar
pans with parchment paper; lightly spray a slight border on top of cake. Spoon dissolves. Reduce heat to medium; cook,
parchment. remaining Blueberry Filling on top of stirring occasionally, until berries begin to
2. In a medium bowl, sift together flour, cake within border. Loosely cover and soften and liquid begins to thicken, about
1½ cups (300 grams) sugar, baking refrigerate for at least 4 hours before 5 minutes.
powder, salt, and baking soda. serving or up to overnight. Just before 2. In a small bowl, whisk together
3. In another medium bowl, whisk serving, garnish with blueberries and cornstarch and 1 tablespoon (15 grams)
together melted butter, oil, and vanilla flowers, if desired. Cover and refrigerate water until dissolved and smooth; stir into
paste or extract until well combined. for up to 4 days. blueberry mixture. Cook over medium
Whisk in buttermilk and egg yolks until heat, stirring frequently, until mixture is
well combined. *We used King Arthur Unbleached Cake Flour. thickened, about 1 minute. Remove from
4. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with heat, and stir in remaining ½ cup (77 grams)
the whisk attachment, beat egg whites WHIPPED CREAM FROSTING blueberries. Let cool completely, stirring
and cream of tartar at medium-low speed Makes about 5 cups occasionally.

* pro tip
until foamy. Increase mixer speed to
medium-high; gradually add remaining 1 (8-ounce) package (226 grams)
¼ cup (50 grams) sugar, beating until cream cheese, room temperature Blueberry Filling can be made a day ahead
soft peaks form, about 1 minute. Increase ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar and refrigerated; before you use it, stir in a
mixer speed to high, and beat until stiff, Pinch kosher salt tablespoon of water to loosen it up.

27 bake from scratch

 It’s time to take
FROM SCRATCH
®
an adventure the
Bake from Scratch way.
Our 2024 baking retreats
will satisfy the wanderlust
cravings of the most
BAKING intrepid bakers. You’ll learn
techniques from top baking
instructors, travel to areas

RETREATS with rich culinary traditions,

and make new baking friends
along the way.

April 7–12
SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE, MEXICO

May 1–10
ITALY
Milan, Piemonte, Italian Riviera, Tuscany

September 10–18
IRELAND

September 20–27
SOUTH OF FRANCE

October 4–7
FALL BAKING IN BIRMINGHAM
with Brian Hart Hoffman
and Erin Jeanne McDowell

October 20–26
5-DAY MASTERCLASS AT
THE COOK’S ATELIER
BEAUNE, FRANCE

November 8–11
HOLIDAY BAKING IN BIRMINGHAM

December 6–11 and 12–17 More 2024 baking retreats to be announced soon!
SWITZERLAND For all the delicious details on these retreats and to register, email
events@[Link]. To stay up-to-date on our baking retreat
announcements, sign up for our newsletter, PreHeat!
from the pantry

THE

BY AMBER WILSON

The enchanting
appeal of the elegant
and eࢂortless Bundt
W
hen conversations begin to match the
slow flickering flame from the candles
and the evening begins to tilt to an end,
I am comforted knowing I have an uplifting grand
finale in the form of a Bundt cake patiently waiting
for me under a glass dome on the counter. All that’s
needed is to whisk cold cream until it’s soft and
billowing—destined to be draped on the side of a
gloriously golden slice of Bundt cake alongside an
etched glass bowl filled to the brim with the first
of the season’s strawberries. A Bundt is incredibly
satisfying with its smooth, evenly browned crust,
moist crumb, and beautiful shape. It’s no wonder this
iconic pan has become the quintessential American
cake for any and every occasion. The pans are
easy to bake with and produce consistent results,
and perhaps best of all, Bundts need little to no
decoration. The cake looks elaborate and impressive
when it comes to the table, all thanks to the shape of
the Bundt pan.

Bundt pans were invented in 1950 by

H. David Dalquist, the founder of
Minnesota’s Nordic Ware company.
Dave cast the first Bundt pan for the
Minneapolis-based Hadassah (a Jewish
women’s organization), which wanted to
re-create traditional European kugelhopf—
a yeasted cake baked in a distinctive ring
mold with a tube in the middle that conducts
heat into the batter for faster baking.
The original kugelhopf pan was bulky and
weighed more than 10 pounds. Nordic
Ware enhanced the design by using cast
aluminum, making it lightweight and

* Capacity Dilemma Demystiࢅed

When you buy a newly made Bundt pan, the cup
capacity is labeled on the pan, but when you inherit
a treasured pan or find a vintage one you can’t live
without, the Bundt capacity may be a mystery. Here’s
a quick and easy tip for finding the volume of your
beloved Bundt pan. Pour water into the pan using a
measuring cup until it’s filled two-thirds to three-fourths
full, counting as you go. Why only partially full? To take
into account the rise of the cake as it bakes so you don’t
have batter overflowing in your oven. This will give you
the cup capacity so you can use your precious pan with
confidence when baking your favorite Bundt cake recipes.

march | april 2024 30

 a better heat conductor. Dave trademarked the pan’s name of a Bundt cake is that you never need to worry about an
as “Bundt,” stemming from the German word bundkuchen, underbaked center ever again!
meaning “a cake for a gathering.” The pan wasn’t immediately
successful and was almost discontinued in the early 1960s. Even if you have a Bundt pan with a nonstick coating, it’s best
However, everything changed in 1966 thanks to the 17th annual to apply baking spray with flour right before adding your batter
Pillsbury Bake-Off® Contest. A Texas woman used a Nordic to ensure your cake will release easily from the pan. (Do not use
Ware Bundt pan to create her decadent Tunnel of Fudge cake cooking spray; it can deteriorate the nonstick finish of the pan.)
recipe. She won second place in the national contest, and the Spray lightly, holding the can about 8 inches away from the pan.
Bundt pan quickly became a staple in kitchens nationwide. Use a pastry brush to gently and evenly spread the spray up
the sides and into the details of the pan, brushing away excess.
Though it creates an aesthetically unique cake, the Bundt pan’s Be sure to spray and brush the center funnel of the pan, too.
central hole is a practical innovation. It provides faster and more Once the batter is in the pan, firmly tap the pan several times
even heat distribution, so dense batters bake uniformly from on a countertop covered with a kitchen towel to help the batter
edge to edge. Because of the Bundt’s distinctive shape, thicker settle into the curves and ridges of the pan and release any
cake batters with a tight crumb structure, like pound cake, do air bubbles that may be trapped in the batter. As it bakes, the
best in these pans. Light batters have too much leavening to batter grips onto the flour in the baking spray for stability as it
come out of the pan cleanly. The most significant advantage rises, which helps create a lofty Bundt cake.

Ma
gn
oli
aB
un
dt
Pa
n

Br
ill
ia
nc

e
Bu
nd
tP
an

31 bake from scratch

 Once your cake is out of the oven, it’s essential to let your ends for getting those detailed, hard-to-reach crannies. You can
Bundt cool in the pan on a wire rack for the time specified in soak your pan to help loosen any stubborn dried bits clinging to
the recipe. Also, use the thin, smooth blade of an offset spatula it; however, if your pan has a nonstick coating, don’t soak it for
to gently slide down the sides of the pan and around the tube longer than 15 minutes since excessive soaking can damage the
to release any spots that might be sticking. As the cake cools, coating. Be sure to dry your pans thoroughly before storing. This
it will gradually release itself from the sides of the Bundt pan. added effort will result in a longer lifespan for your Bundt pans.
To remove the cake from the pan, carefully invert it onto a wire
rack, remove the pan, and let the cake cool completely or for Bakers are constantly inspired by ingredients, yet when it comes
the time indicated in the recipe. If the cake doesn’t come out of to Bundt cakes, the pans are equally inspiring. Nothing quite
the pan immediately, allow it to sit upside down on the rack for a compares to this kitchen tool that can magically transform the
few minutes. If gravity hasn’t made the cake drop from the pan, simplest batters into something sophisticated that never fails
give it a gentle jiggle to help it release. to impress. So many have that shared memory of a perfectly
curved cake under a dome of glass, beckoning us to reach in and
To clean your Bundt pan, try loosening crusted cake crumbs cut a slice. And if you are looking for a graceful way to usher a
from a dry pan; it can often be easier than when it’s wet. There meal to a close, the simple pleasures of a Bundt are often the
are also special Bundt cleaning brushes with bristled and pointed most satisfying.

an Pan
tP d t
d n
B un Bu
a ge
ri

ta
va

ri
He
Ba

Bake in a Bundt Pan In this issue, don’t miss:

You can never bake too many Bundts! We have endless uses
Irish Cream Pound Cake, page 88 for a wide variety of Bundt pans within the pages of our two
Persian Love Pound Cake, page 88 Bundt cookbooks, available at [Link]/shop.

march | april 2024 32

baker profile
 SWEET SERENIT Y
Betül Tunç, the creator of Turkuaz Kitchen, shares her appetite for
culinary storytelling that uplifts and inspires followers all over the world

BY AMBER WILSON / PHOTOGRAPHY BY BETÜL TUNÇ

F
or Betül Tunç, the kitchen is a sanctuary—a place prepackaged foods was nearly nonexistent. When I was
of peace and joy. Being born into and raised with little, my mother was the home chef, crafting every dish
Turkey’s rich culinary customs played a significant from the ground up with natural ingredients. Among our
role in shaping her palate and profound connection with the treasured family snacks were my mother’s signature cake,
kitchen at an early age. “Growing up in the culinary mosaic dense with raisins and generously speckled with nuts. And it
of Turkey was nothing short of a blessing for a budding was the warm, citrusy aroma of sweet orange peel wafting
food enthusiast like myself. Home-cooked meals were through our home that first captured my senses and etched
the norm in our household; the concept of store-bought, a profound love for baking in my heart.”

march | april 2024 34

 Betül’s affection for baking from scratch sparked early in
life, around 8 or 9 years old. “As a child, I would perch on a
chair, gazing in wonder as my mother and sisters whipped
up various dishes. My mother, unlike those who prefer
spotless kitchen counters, welcomed the mess of little hands
learning to cook. She turned our cold winter days into warm
memories of baking and cooking from scratch, embedding a
love for the kitchen that burns brightly to this day.”

Her passion for baking and cooking continued brewing and

eventually transpired into the enchanting account Turkuaz
Kitchen. After moving to Blacksburg, Virginia, Betül started
her journey into social media and food photography as a
pastime in 2017. Initially, it was something to engage with
while caring for her young son, Kerem. “As my online
presence grew, it began to open doors I hadn’t anticipated.
The turning point came with partnership proposals from
renowned brands, which was both surprising and affirming.
That’s when I first realized that my passion could indeed
be my profession. I decided to embrace this path fully and
transform my hobby into a career that I love.”

In her stunning videos, Betül shares her appetite for baking

with masterful techniques she makes look effortless and, at
the same time, approachable. She loves getting lost for hours
in the kitchen as she immerses herself in developing recipes.
When asked what her favorite recipes and techniques to
share are, it’s no surprise to hear pastries top the list. “I
delight in experimenting with recipes from around the
globe and infusing them with my personal touch. While I’m
not typically a dessert person,” she confesses, “baking and
decorating cakes hold a special place in my heart—a teenage
passion that’s stayed with me. For an effortlessly elegant
touch, I suggest using fresh flowers and herbs for decoration;
they turn any dessert from simple to enchanting with
minimal effort.”

The romance in her content genuinely reflects her love

for all things vintage. Every piece of wonderfully worn
pottery or antique kitchen tool tells tales of its past life
through its enduring weathering. It adds to Betül’s deeply
artistic aesthetic and an old-fashioned charm that she finds
irresistible. “I’ve always been drawn to the aesthetic richness
of the past—every item, every piece of music carries a legacy
that I aim to weave into my culinary storytelling.”
Follow Betül on
social media at Her creative process is as distinctive and whimsical as the
@turkuazkitchen.
content itself. Once she’s perfected a recipe, the artistic
journey begins. She works in delightful chaos, allowing
spontaneity and instinct to guide the aesthetics of each
video. Everything from attire, the setting, and final look of
the dish comes together in a spontaneous flutter of chaotic
romanticism as the camera records every delightful moment.
For Betül, this is a solitary act, as it allows for her special
touch to be in every frame, and she says that she wouldn’t
have it any other way.

“My creative process is a captivating dance between curiosity

and imagination. The most challenging step is selecting the
dish to create, given my insatiable desire to cook and share
endlessly. Once the recipe is chosen and tested, that’s when
the real magic happens. I dive deep into research when it’s
a dish from world cuisines, because honoring the original is
crucial. But once the foundation is laid, my imagination takes
the helm. The moment I hit record, it’s as though a culinary
symphony commences—every technique, every ingredient
comes together spontaneously on camera.”

She continues, “My ultimate goal is to convey the irresistible

allure of each dish through the lens so that even those who
can’t taste it believe in its delectability. It’s not uncommon
for me to reshoot if the initial take doesn’t meet my vision. I
might revisit the scene the following day or experiment with
various presentations to capture the most enticing angle.
In essence, my creative journey is a blend of planning and
improvisation.”

Betül has a variety of exciting projects in store for this year

that she is greatly anticipating. She is currently focusing on
the final stages of wrapping up her first cookbook, slated to
debut this fall. She describes her cookbook journey so far as
an exhilarating and profoundly rewarding experience. “The
entire process, from the initial brainstorming of recipes to
the meticulous editing phase, has been both challenging and
fulfilling. I realized that it was similar to the anticipation and
preparation one experiences during pregnancy, as I did with
my son, Kerem. Every step, despite its difficulties and the
exhaustion it brought, was a labor of love.”

She adds, “Crafting each detail to align with my vision and

capturing the essence of my recipes through photography
has been a remarkable journey. I am eagerly looking forward
to seeing the book in the hands of readers and hearing their
thoughts and experiences as they bring these recipes to life
in their own kitchens.”

march | april 2024 36

 Betül leaves us with her most valuable advice, which can be
applied inside and outside the kitchen: pursue your passions
wholeheartedly. “I firmly believe that the key to true success
lies in following what genuinely excites and motivates you,”
she declares. “When you engage in activities that ignite your
passion, you not only enrich your own life but often inspire
those around you. My advice is simple: find what you love,
dedicate yourself to it, and never lose the determination to
keep going, no matter the obstacles.” It’s that same pursued
passion for food that was lit at a young age in Betül’s heart
that’s still flaming brightly and never faded, and for that, we
are grateful.

37 bake from scratch

BUDAPEST ROLL
Makes 3 to 5 servings

Recipe by Betül Tunc

Despite its name, Budapest roll is not a

specialty sweet hailing from Hungary’s
capital—it’s from Sweden. Ingvar Strid, a
Swedish pastry chef, first introduced this
delicious recipe to Sweden, and it has since
become a cherished dessert worldwide.
Betül’s delectable version is made with
an alluring almond-studded pavlova-like
meringue cake that’s filled with vanilla
whipped cream and strawberries and topped
with raspberries.

Meringue:
5 large egg whites (150 grams), room
temperature
Pinch salt
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar
1⅓ cups (144 grams) almond flour
5 tablespoons (58 grams) vanilla
instant pudding mix*
½ cup (57 grams) sliced almonds

Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting

Filling:
2 cups (480 grams) cold heavy
whipping cream
½ cup (60 grams) confectioners’ sugar
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
½ cup (83 grams) sliced fresh
strawberries

1 cup (130 grams) fresh raspberries,

sliced
Garnish: fresh mint

1. Preheat the oven to 330°F (165°C).

2. Using an electric hand mixer with a
large bowl or in the bowl of a stand mixer the top. Place in the oven and bake for extract. Beat at a high speed until stiff
fitted with the whisk attachment, beat 20 minutes until set and dry to the touch. peaks form but be careful not to overwhip.
the egg whites and a pinch of salt at 4. Dust a piece of kitchen cloth with 6. Unroll the cooled meringue, keeping
medium speed until foamy. Then add the confectioners’ sugar. Flip the baking the almond side down. Spread the
sugar a little at a time while continuing sheet over onto the cloth, and gently cream evenly over the top. Place some
to beat until it becomes fluffy and peel the parchment paper from the strawberries on top. Starting with a short
holds stiff peaks. Evenly sift the almond meringue. Starting from the bottom, roll side, carefully roll until you reach the top.
flour and vanilla pudding mix over the the meringue toward the top, rolling the You may also start from a long side to
meringue. Using a wooden spoon, gently kitchen cloth at the same time to keep obtain a thinner Budapest roll. Let it cool
fold the mixture until just everything is the meringue from sticking together. in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 hours.
incorporated. Once fully rolled, let it cool completely 7. Slice the Budapest roll into 3, 4, or
3. Line a 14x10-inch rimmed baking sheet like this to make it easy to roll. 5 equal pieces. Decorate with raspberries
with parchment paper. Pour the batter 5. In the meantime, in a large bowl or and mint and serve.
into the prepared sheet and spread evenly. stand mixer, add cold heavy whipping
Sprinkle the sliced almonds evenly over cream, confectioners’ sugar, and vanilla *Betül uses Jell-O Vanilla Instant Pudding Mix.
march | april 2024 38
 bread box
Red Star® Yeast

BUNS
POWERED BY

BOUNTIFUL
Fill your baskets with these breads that bake to
individually portioned perfection in your trusty muࢃn pan

Se
sa
m
e-a
nd
-G
r ee
n

On
io
n
Kn
ot
s,
agp
e4
1

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KYLE CARPENTER / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY AMANDA STABILE

FOOD STYLING BYAARON CONRAD / STYLING BY MAGGIE HILL
Roasted Garlic-
and-Caramelized
Onion Focaccia
Rolls, page 42
 SESAME-AND-GREEN ONION KNOTS
Makes 12 rolls

Filled with green onions, a.k.a. scallions or spring onions, and

speckled with sesame seeds, these braided rolls are inspired by
cong you bing, or scallion pancakes, a Chinese savory flatbread.

4¼ cups (540 grams) bread flour, divided, plus more for

dusting
2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated sugar
1 tablespoon (9 grams) plus ¼ teaspoon kosher salt, divided
1 (0.25-ounce) package (7 grams) instant yeast*
¾ cup (180 grams) whole milk
½ cup (120 grams) plus 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water, divided
⅓ cup (76 grams) unsalted butter
2 large eggs (100 grams), room temperature and divided
¾ cup (64 grams) lightly packed finely sliced green onion
1½ teaspoons (7 grams) sesame oil
1 teaspoon (4 grams) minced garlic
3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted butter, melted and
cooled slightly
Sesame seeds, for sprinkling

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together 2 cups

(254 grams) flour, sugar, 1 tablespoon (9 grams) salt, and
yeast by hand.
2. In a medium saucepan, heat milk, ½ cup (120 grams)
water, and butter over medium heat until an instant-read
thermometer registers 120°F (49°C) to 130°F (54°C). Add
hot milk mixture to flour mixture; using the paddle attachment,
beat at medium speed until combined. Add 1 egg (50 grams),
beating until combined. With mixer on low speed, gradually
add 2 cups (254 grams) flour, beating just until a shaggy dough
comes together and stopping to scrape sides of bowl.
3. Switch to the dough hook attachment. Beat at low speed
until a soft, smooth, somewhat sticky dough forms, 20 to
23 minutes; add up to remaining ¼ cup (32 grams) flour,
1 tablespoon (8 grams) at a time, if dough is too sticky. Turn
out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and shape into a
smooth round.
4. Lightly oil a large bowl. Place dough in bowl, turning to
grease top. Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free place
(75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, 40 minutes to 1 hour.
5. Spray a 12-cup muffin pan with baking spray with flour.
6. Punch down dough, and let stand for 5 minutes. On a lightly
floured surface, roll dough into an 18x12-inch rectangle, one
long side facing you.
7. In a small bowl, stir together green onion, sesame oil, garlic,
and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt.
8. Using a pastry brush, brush melted butter onto dough.
Sprinkle green onion mixture evenly onto bottom half of
dough, leaving a ½-inch border along bottom long side. Fold
top half down, lightly pressing to adhere. Trim 1⁄8 to ¼ inch
off short sides of dough; cut crosswise into 12 strips (about
1½ inches wide each).
9. Leaving ½ inch intact at folded end, cut 1 dough strip into
3 strands. Loosely braid strands, pinching end to adhere.

41 bake from scratch

Carefully tuck loose end of braid under to create a knot.
Looking for more spectacular
Place in a prepared muffin cup. Repeat with remaining dough
strips. Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free place bread recipes?
(75°F/24°C) until puffed, 30 to 45 minutes. Head to [Link] and
10. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). check out our Bread Box collection!
11. In another small bowl, whisk together remaining 1 egg
(50 grams) and remaining 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water.
Using a pastry brush, gently brush egg wash onto rolls;
sprinkle with sesame seeds.
12. Bake until golden brown and an instant-read thermometer
inserted in center registers at least 190°F (88°C), about
20 minutes. Let cool in pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes.
Serve warm. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

*We used Platinum® Yeast from Red Star®.

ROASTED GARLIC-AND-CARAMELIZED
ONION FOCACCIA ROLLS
Makes 12 rolls
brown, 25 to 35 minutes. Let cool completely. Refrigerate in
When cooked low and slow, intensely flavored alliums become an airtight container for up to 3 days.
gently savory-sweet and create a meltingly rich topping to 4. For dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine 1 cup plus
these airy rolls. 3 tablespoons (270 grams) room temperature water and
1½ tablespoons (21 grams) extra-virgin olive oil. Add flour,
Garlic: kosher salt, and yeast. Using the paddle attachment, beat
1 medium head garlic (55 grams), cloves separated and at low speed until combined, about 1 minute; scrape sides of
peeled bowl and paddle. Beat at medium-low speed until dough pulls
1 to 2 cups (224 to 448 grams) olive oil (not extra-virgin) away from sides of bowl and forms a smooth ball on paddle,
3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl.
Onions: 5. Oil a large bowl. Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top.
1 tablespoon (14 grams) unsalted butter Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) for
1½ cups (150 grams) thinly sliced yellow onion 1½ hours, folding dough in bowl every 30 minutes. (To fold,
(about 1 small onion) use wet or oiled hands to reach under one side of dough;
1 teaspoon (4 grams) granulated sugar gently stretch up, and fold over center. Repeat 3 more times
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt around bowl.)
6. Spray a 12-cup muffin pan with cooking spray.
Dough: 7. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and divide
1 cup plus 3 tablespoons (285 grams) water, room into 12 portions (about 58 grams each). Place each portion
temperature (70°F/21°C to 75°F/24°C) into a prepared muffin cup. Cover with plastic wrap, and let
3 tablespoons (42 grams) extra-virgin olive oil, divided rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until puffed and
3 cups (381 grams) bread flour, plus more for dusting dough just reaches top of muffin cups, about 20 minutes.
2¼ teaspoons (6.75 grams) kosher salt 8. Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C).
1 (0.25-ounce) package (7 grams) instant yeast* 9. Drizzle remaining 1½ tablespoons (21 grams) extra-virgin
olive oil onto rolls. Using your fingers, dimple dough, touching
Flaked sea salt (optional) pan through dough without tearing dough.
Garnish: chopped fresh rosemary 10. Dot or spread about 1 crushed roasted garlic clove on each
roll. Season with sea salt (if using).
1. For garlic: In a small saucepan, place garlic. Add enough 11. Bake until tops are lightly browned and almost set, about
olive oil to submerge garlic. Bring to a boil over medium heat; 5 minutes. Top rolls with caramelized onion as desired. Bake
reduce heat, and simmer, stirring frequently, until garlic is until rolls are golden brown and an instant-read thermometer
very soft, about 30 minutes. Let cool completely. inserted in center registers 190°F (88°C), 6 to 7 minutes
2. Crush roasted garlic in oil; transfer mixture to a resealable more. Let cool in pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Brush
jar, and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks. warm rolls with oil from roasted garlic. Garnish with rosemary,
3. For onions: In a small skillet, melt butter over medium heat. if desired. Serve warm. Store in an airtight container for up to
Add onion, sugar, and kosher salt; cook, stirring frequently, 3 days.
until onion is soft and translucent, about 10 minutes. Reduce
heat to medium-low; cook, stirring frequently, until golden *We used Platinum® Yeast from Red Star®.

march | april 2024 42

baking with britney

White
Chocolate
Raspberry
Tiramisù,
page 46
 Rose Cupcakes with
Pistachio Frosting,
page 45

Nothing embraces the

promise of springtime
quite like the scent of rose,
gently kissed with buttery
notes of pistachio, and a
heavenly white chocolate
tiramisù punctuated with
rubied, tart raspberries
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT , STYLING , AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY
BRITNEY BROWN-CHAMBERLAIN

march | april 2024 44

 ROSE CUPCAKES WITH 1 teaspoon (4 grams) rose water
PISTACHIO FROSTING 1 teaspoon (6 grams) vanilla bean paste
Having visited Makes 12 cupcakes
more than Frosting:
33 countries, Embark on a floral-infused journey with ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter,
Maryland-based rose cupcakes crowned with a pistachio room temperature
Britney Brown- buttercream that adds a delightful nutty yet 8 ounces (226 grams) cream cheese,
Chamberlain buttery flavor. These cupcakes are a sublime room temperature
draws inspiration for her blog, blend of elegance and indulgence. 3 cups (360 grams) confectioners’ sugar
Britney Breaks Bread, from each 1 tablespoon (10 grams) meringue
region she encounters, making
Cupcakes: powder
1½ cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour 1½ teaspoons (6 grams) pistachio
Britney a deliciously welcome
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar emulsion*
addition to our magazine
2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder Pinch kosher salt
as the Bake from Scratch ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
2024 contributing editor. ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, Garnish: chopped pistachios, edible dried
Follow Britney on Instagram at room temperature roses
@britneybreaksbread and her 2 large eggs (100 grams)
website, [Link]. 2 tablespoons (28 grams) vegetable oil 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (150 grams) Line a 12-cup muffin pan with cupcake
whole milk liners.
2. For cupcakes: In the bowl of a stand
mixer fitted with the paddle attachment,

* britney’s tip
combine flour, sugar, baking powder,
kosher salt, and butter. Mix together
Whereas typical flavored extracts use alcohol as their base, an emulsion is a on medium speed until a sandy mixture
robust water-based flavoring. Water does not evaporate as quickly as alcohol forms, 1 to 2 minutes.
3. In a medium mixing bowl, combine
when exposed to heat, so an emulsion’s flavor and fragrance will be stronger
than those of an extract. eggs, oil, whole milk, rose water, and
vanilla bean paste. Whisk together until
all ingredients are combined. Pour into
the bowl of the stand mixer and mix
on medium-low until smooth, about
30 seconds.
4. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and
mix for an additional 10 to 15 seconds.
Fill each muffin cup about two-thirds full
(about 3 tablespoons/65 grams).
5. Bake for 20 to 22 minutes. Allow the
cupcakes to cool completely in the muffin
pan.
6. For frosting: Add butter to the bowl
of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle
attachment. Beat the butter on medium-
low speed for 1 minute and then add the
cream cheese and mix together for an
additional minute. Add confectioners’
sugar, meringue powder, pistachio
emulsion, and salt. Mix on low speed,
gradually increasing to medium speed once
the ingredients begin to come together.
7. Add frosting to a piping bag fitted
with desired tip, and pipe on top of the
cooled cupcakes. Garnish with chopped
pistachios and dried roses, if desired.

*I use LorAnn Oils Pistachio Bakery

Emulsion, available online.
45 bake from scratch
WHITE CHOCOLATE
RASPBERRY TIRAMISÙ
Makes 8 to 10 servings

This is my new dessert obsession! It’s

an exquisite harmony of a velvety white
chocolate cream and raspberry cream,
layered between almond liqueur-soaked
ladyfingers, creating a luscious symphony
of flavors that dances on your palate. This
take on tiramisù elevates the classic dessert
where sweetness meets the perfect hint of
tartness in every heavenly bite.

Filling:
2¾ cups (660 grams) heavy whipping
cream
8 ounces (226 grams) mascarpone
cheese
2 teaspoons (12 grams) vanilla bean paste
Pinch kosher salt
13 ounces (375 grams) white chocolate,
chopped

Ladyfingers:
1 cup (125 grams) all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons (16 grams) cornstarch
Pinch kosher salt
4 large eggs (200 grams)
⅔ cup (134 grams) granulated sugar,
divided 5. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with 11. Remove the cream mixture from the
3 tablespoons (21 grams) confectioners’ the whisk attachment, add egg whites and refrigerator and pour into a stand mixer
sugar beat at medium speed until bubbly; then fitted with the whisk attachment. Beat
begin to slowly add ⅓ cup (67 grams) at medium speed for 3 to 5 minutes until
⅓ cup (107 grams) raspberry preserves granulated sugar with the mixer going. thick and fluffy—do not overmix! As soon
1½ teaspoons (6 grams) raspberry Mix until stiff peaks form and then place as stiff peaks form, stop mixing.
extract (optional) the meringue into a clean mixing bowl. 12. Remove two-thirds of the cream into
½ cup (120 grams) almond liqueur 6. Clean the bowl of the stand mixer a mixing bowl. Add raspberry preserves
¼ cup (25 grams) unsweetened cocoa and whisk attachment and reattach to and extract if using, and mix together
powder the mixer. Add egg yolks and remaining until just combined.
⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar and 13. In a small mixing bowl, add almond
Garnish: shaved white chocolate, fresh beat at medium speed for 3 to 4 minutes liqueur.
raspberries until pale yellow and slightly thickened in 14. Spread plain cream into the bottom
texture. Gently fold the meringue into of a 13x9-inch or 3-quart serving dish.
1. For filling: Add heavy cream, mascarpone, the egg yolks and then fold in the flour/ Dip ladyfingers, one at a time, into the
vanilla bean paste, and salt to a saucepan; cornstarch mixture. liqueur. Fit as many ladyfingers into
heat over medium-low heat until warm, 7. Add the batter to a piping bag with a a single layer as possible, about 20
about 5 minutes. Add white chocolate, and ½-inch round tip. ladyfingers. Spread half of the raspberry
whisk until fully melted. 8. Line two baking sheets with parchment cream (about 21⁄2 cups/419 grams) on
2. Pour mixture into a large mixing bowl paper and pipe 3x1-inch ladyfingers onto top of the ladyfingers and then repeat
and cover with plastic wrap. Place the the baking sheet, spacing each about dipping the remaining ladyfingers into the
bowl in the refrigerator for at least 1 inch apart. liqueur and place on top of the raspberry
6 hours, ideally overnight. While the 9. Add confectioners’ sugar to a fine- cream in a single layer. Add the remaining
cream is cooling, make the ladyfingers. mesh sieve and dust the ladyfingers with raspberry cream on top and dust with
3. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). a generous amount of the sugar. cocoa powder. Place in the refrigerator
4. For ladyfingers: In a small bowl, whisk 10. Bake for 8 to 12 minutes until for at least 6 hours, ideally overnight.
together flour, cornstarch, and salt. In a golden brown and dry. Set aside to cool 15. Just before serving, garnish with shaved
separate bowl, separate the egg whites completely. white chocolate and raspberries, if desired.
and egg yolks.
march | april 2024 46
baking school in-depth

P E T I T F O U R S
Conࢅdently create elegant French petit fours
that will have you exclaiming magniࡼque
instead of très tragique

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KYLE CARPENTER

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BYAMANDA STABILE
FOOD STYLING BY AARON CONRAD AND KATIE MOON DICKERSON
STYLING BY MAGGIE HILL
D
uring the 19th century in France, bakers discovered they could utilize the residual warmth of their
stone ovens after extinguishing the initial intense heat. This blazing hot setting used to bake crusty
loaves of bread was called grand four or “big oven.” The latent heat was enough to cook tiny, individual
pastries as the oven cooled. This cool-down setting gave rise to the name petit four or “small oven,” et voilà, the
creation of petit fours! The small pastries eventually assumed the name of the oven setting they were baked in,
and they have since been elevated into various small, exquisite pastries, now treasured worldwide. The adorable
cakes we consider petit fours are just one type, called petit fours glacé.

march | april 2024 48

 The Components
Our petit fours are comprised of
buttercream with or without fruit
preserves between two cake layers.
Another thin layer of buttercream
is applied on top before freezing.
Poured fondant elegantly drapes over
the cake and then it’s time to decorate
these charming, delicious bite-size
petit fours to your heart’s desire.

CAKE: The cake is the foundation of

a petit four and must have certain
qualities. It should be very moist and
relatively dense. Its density will help
ensure that the cake slices cleanly
and will be able to hold together
when assembling the layers.
FILLING: We kept the filling flavors
classic with Almond Buttercream and
strawberry preserves, but you can use a
variety of spreadable fillings like lemon
curd, chocolate buttercream, orange
marmalade, or even hazelnut-chocolate
spread!
CRUMB COAT: The second layer of
Almond Buttercream is a practical
application that will make your petit
fours look flawless. This thin layer of
frosting acts as a crumb coat, locking in
any loose crumbs from the cake, and will
help keep the surface perfectly smooth
so the poured fondant glaze stays nice
and smooth as well. The buttercream will
also firm up as it chills, making it even
easier to slice the petit fours into nice
and neat little squares.
GLAZE: Not to be confused with
the rolled sheets of sugar dough that
blanket wedding cakes, petit fours are
enveloped in an elegant glaze called
poured fondant. It’s simply a blend of
confectioners’ sugar, corn syrup, water,
flavorings, and white chocolate heated
over a double boiler until smooth and
pourable. The beauty of poured fondant
is that it gives you an all-over coating
that sets into a shell as it cools and keeps
the petit fours moist for days, making
them an ideal make-ahead dessert.
 Tool Tête-a-Tête
Here are a few standout tools to help you make the perfect petit fours

A CUT ABOVE: The small sawing motions from a EASY DOES IT: To keep the poured fondant at an
serrated knife will help you cut your petit fours into ideal consistency, we make a double boiler by placing a
neat squares and keep the filling from spilling out mixing bowl over a small saucepan with 1 inch of water
between the cake layers. warmed over very low heat.
CORRAL THE CHAOS: A rimmed baking sheet with a SMALL BUT MIGHTY: The slender, angled blade of an
wire rack will make the glazing step less messy, and the offset spatula gives you optimal control, helping you
pan will catch all excess glaze to reuse as needed. achieve a smooth top when making the cake, spreading
JUST RIGHT: An instant-read thermometer eliminates the buttercream and preserves, and evenly coating
guesswork when making the poured fondant. As soon as the top of the cake with the buttercream. It’s also the
the thermometer reads anywhere from 105°F (41°C) to perfect tool for transferring the delicate petit fours
110°F (43°C), the glaze is ready for pouring! from the wire rack to a serving platter.

march | april 2024 50

 PETIT FOURS 6. Spread half of Almond Buttercream
Makes 48 cakes (about ¾ cup or about 170 grams) on top
of 1 cake layer. Top with remaining cake
Bring the enchantment of a French layer, lightly pressing to adhere. Spread
pâtisserie straight to your kitchen with these remaining buttercream on second layer,
dainty and delicious bite-size cakes. smoothing as much as possible. Freeze
for 1 hour. (Alternatively, tightly wrap
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, assembled cake in plastic wrap, and freeze
softened for up to 2 months. Unwrap cake, and
1¾ cups (350 grams) granulated sugar let it thaw in the refrigerator overnight
4 large eggs (200 grams), room before proceeding.)
temperature 7. Using a long sharp knife, cut cake into
¾ teaspoon (3 grams) almond extract 48 (1¼-inch) squares, and return to
½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract freezer.
3 cups (375 grams) all-purpose flour 8. Line a rimmed baking sheet with plastic
½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking powder wrap; place a wire rack on top. Place
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt no more than 12 petit fours at least
¾ cup (180 grams) whole milk, room 1 inch apart on prepared rack. Carefully
temperature pour White Chocolate Poured Fondant
3 tablespoons (45 grams) sour cream, onto petit fours, making sure all sides
room temperature are completely covered, reheating and
Almond Buttercream (recipe follows) re-pouring fondant as necessary. (See
White Chocolate Poured Fondant (recipe Note.) Let stand until set, 10 to
on opposite page) 15 minutes. Remove wire rack, spoon
Garnish: edible gold leaf, melted white used fondant into liquid-measuring cup,
chocolate and reheat as needed in the top of a
double boiler or microwave to maintain
1. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Spray a temperature range of 105°F (41°C) to
a 17½x12½-inch rimmed baking sheet 110°F (43°C).
with baking spray with flour. Line pan with 9. Using a small offset spatula, move
parchment paper. glazed petit fours to a serving platter.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with Repeat procedure with remaining petit
the paddle attachment, beat butter and fours and remaining White Chocolate
sugar at medium speed until fluffy, 3 to Poured Fondant, only removing cakes
4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of from freezer when ready to pour. Garnish
bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating with gold leaf or melted white chocolate,
well after each addition. Beat in extracts. if desired. Store in an airtight container
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, for up to 2 days, or refrigerate in an
baking powder, and salt. In a small bowl, airtight container for up to 1 week.
whisk together milk and sour cream. With
mixer on low speed, gradually add flour Note: The glaze will seem far too thick
mixture to butter mixture alternately with to pour. If it is too warm, the glaze will
milk mixture, beginning and ending with simply slide off the cake and leave you with
flour mixture, beating just until combined lumpy or translucent sides. It is OK if you
after each addition. Spread batter into pour more than is needed to achieve full
prepared pan. coverage; the excess will drip off.
4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted
in center comes out clean, 27 to ALMOND BUTTERCREAM
30 minutes. Let cool in pan for Makes about 1½ cups
10 minutes. Invert cake onto a wire
rack, and discard parchment. Let cool ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter,
completely. softened
5. Using a long serrated knife, trim cooled 1¾ cups (210 grams) confectioners’
cake on all sides to create a 15x10-inch sugar
rectangle. Cut cake in half to create 2 tablespoons (30 grams) heavy
2 (10x7½-inch) layers. whipping cream
½ teaspoon (2 grams) almond extract
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
51 bake from scratch
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted 3. Continue Petit Fours recipe at step 7,
with the paddle attachment, beat butter using Poured Strawberry Fondant.
at medium speed until creamy, 2 to
3 minutes. Gradually add confectioners’ *We used Bonne Maman® Strawberry
sugar, beating until combined. Add Preserves.
cream, almond extract, and salt, beating
until smooth, fluffy, and lightened in color POURED STRAWBERRY FONDANT
and stopping to scrape bottom and sides Makes about 6 cups
of bowl and paddle.
10 cups (1,200 grams)
WHITE CHOCOLATE POURED FONDANT confectioners’ sugar
Makes about 6 cups ⅔ cup (226 grams) light
corn syrup
10 cups (1,200 grams) confectioners’ ½ cup (120 grams) water
sugar ¼ cup (80 grams) strawberry
⅔ cup (226 grams) light corn syrup preserves, strained
⅔ cup (160 grams) water 2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla
2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract extract
2⅓ cups (397 grams) white chocolate 2⅓ cups (397 grams) white
chips chocolate chips
Pink liquid food coloring*
1. In the top of a double boiler, combine
confectioners’ sugar, corn syrup, ⅔ cup 1. In the top of a double boiler,
(160 grams) water, and vanilla. Cook over combine confectioners’ sugar,
simmering water, whisking constantly, corn syrup, ½ cup (120 grams)
until smooth. Add white chocolate chips; water, preserves, and vanilla. Cook
cook, stirring frequently, until chocolate over simmering water, whisking
is melted and mixture is smooth. Reduce constantly, until smooth. Add
heat to low. white chocolate chips; cook,
2. Spoon 2 cups (661 grams) fondant into stirring frequently, until
a liquid-measuring cup. Let cool until an chocolate is melted and
instant-read thermometer registers 105°F mixture is smooth. Tint
(41°C) to 110°F (43°C); use immediately. with food coloring as
desired. Reduce heat
STRAWBERRY PETIT FOURS to low.
Makes 48 cakes 2. Spoon 2 cups
(661 grams) fondant
Petit Fours batter (recipe on opposite into a liquid-measuring
page) cup. Let cool until
½ cup (160 grams) strawberry an instant-read
preserves* thermometer registers
¾ cup (170 grams) Almond 105°F (41°C) to 110°F
Buttercream (recipe precedes) (43°C); use immediately.
Poured Strawberry Fondant (recipe
follows) *We used Wilton
Color Right
1. Proceed with Petit Fours recipe Performance
through step 5. Food Coloring.
2. Spread preserves onto 1 cooled cake
layer. Top with remaining cake layer,
lightly pressing to adhere. Spread Almond
Buttercream on top in a smooth layer.
Freeze for 1 hour. (Alternatively, tightly
wrap assembled cake in plastic wrap,
and freeze for up to 2 months. Unwrap
cake, and let it thaw in the refrigerator
overnight before proceeding.)
 The Assemblage
Once the cake and the buttercream are made,
it’s time to assemble the petit fours

1. Using a long serrated knife, trim

cooled cake on all sides to create a
15x10-inch rectangle. Cut in half to
create 2 (10x7½-inch) rectangles.

2. Spread half of Almond

Buttercream (¾ cup or
170 grams) on top of 1 cake
layer. Top with remaining
cake layer, lightly pressing
to adhere. Spread remaining
buttercream on second layer,
smoothing as much as possible.
Freeze for 1 hour.
3. Using a long sharp knife,
cut cake into 48 (1¼-inch)
squares, and return to freezer.

march | april 2024 54

 Master
Poured Fondant
Poured fondant may sound intimidating, but it’s a majestic,
forgiving glaze. It gives petit fours a slightly lustrous
appearance, yet they’re dry to the touch and can be easily
handled once set. The glaze beautifully gives way when
bitten into, revealing the layers of cake and gorgeous ࡼlling.
Follow a few simple rules, and you will be golden.ܳ
1. Keep the glaze warm in a double boiler over low
heat. The steam from the water underneath the
bowl will heat the glaze just enough to keep it at
that perfectly smooth and pourable consistency.
Poured fondant hardens as it cools, but you don’t
want the glaze to set in the bowl before having time
to coat each cake. To take the guesswork out of
it, keep your eye on the temperature of the glaze
using your trusty thermometer.
2. Pour a generous amount of glaze onto each petit
four. The viscosity of the glaze pulls itself down the
sides of the petit fours, creating an even coating.
Don’t worry about the excess glaze pooling at the
bottom of the rimmed baking sheet under the wire
rack; gently lift the plastic wrap and scrape the
glaze back into the bowl, reheat, and reuse it!
3. If you notice your layer of glaze is uneven, don’t
be tempted to add more glaze. Pouring a second
layer of glaze will only make it look more lopsided.
4. After glazing the petit fours, let them stand for
10 to 15 minutes to fully set before transferring
them from the wire rack to a serving platter.
Moving the petit fours too early will result in the
glaze sliding around.

5. If you notice any stubborn bubbles forming

in the glaze, simply use a wooden pick to pop it
before the glaze has a chance to set fully.

march | april 2024 56

* Don’t Forget to Freeze
The freezer is your best friend when
making petit fours, as these are easiest
to slice and glaze after being chilled.
Don’t be tempted to skip this step or cut
the freezing time in any way. If you do,
the layers may slide around when slicing
and the Almond Buttercream coating
will melt when you glaze it with the
warm poured fondant. If they sit in the
freezer for too long and you notice some
condensation has formed on the surface,
don’t fret. Simply blot the surface dry
with a paper towel before glazing.
 CRAZY FOR
COCONUT
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JIM BATHIE / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY OLA AGBODZA AND AMANDA STABILE / FOOD STYLING BY KATIE MOON DICKERSON / STYLING BY MAGGIE HILL
Whether sprinkled onto
a bun or stirred into a
crust, the deliciousness
of coconut can’t be denied

Coconut Magic Bars,

page 66

march | april 2024 60

 COCONUT SKOLEBOLLER 6. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).
Makes 12 buns 7. Place Coconut Pastry Cream in a pastry bag fitted
with a medium round piping tip.
Skoleboller, or school buns, earned their name from 8. Using your fingers or a ¼-cup measuring cup,
the Norwegian tradition of including them in children’s gently press an indentation into center of each
school lunch boxes as a treat. bun. Pipe pastry cream into indentations. (Do not
overfill; pastry cream will expand during baking.)
3⅔ cups (458 grams) all-purpose flour, plus more 9. In a small bowl, whisk remaining 1 egg (50 grams)
for dusting until well combined. Using a pastry brush, brush egg
½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar all over top and sides of dough, avoiding pastry cream.
1 (0.25-ounce) package (7 grams) active dry 10. Bake until golden brown and an instant-read
yeast* thermometer inserted near center registers 190°F
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt (88°C), 9 to 11 minutes. Let cool completely on pans
½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cardamom on wire racks.
½ cup (120 grams) warm whole milk (120°F/49°C 11. In another small bowl, whisk together
to 130°F/54°C) confectioners’ sugar and 2 tablespoons (30 grams)
½ cup (120 grams) warm canned unsweetened room temperature water until well combined. Using
coconut milk (120°F/49°C to 130°F/54°C) a pastry brush, brush glaze on sides of buns, and
2 large eggs (100 grams), room temperature and immediately garnish with coconut flakes, if desired.
divided Serve immediately. Refrigerate in airtight container
⅓ cup (76 grams) unsalted butter, cubed and for up to 3 days.
softened
Coconut Pastry Cream (recipe follows) *We used Red Star® Active Dry Yeast.

* pro tip
1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar
2 tablespoons (30 grams) water, room temperature
Garnish: sweetened coconut flakes Give your can of coconut milk a good shake before
you open it since it naturally separates a bit.
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle
attachment, combine 2 cups (250 grams) flour, COCONUT PASTRY CREAM
granulated sugar, yeast, salt, and cardamom. Add
warm milks, and beat at low speed until combined. Makes 2 cups
Add 1 egg (50 grams), and beat until combined.
Gradually add remaining 1⅔ cups (208 grams) 1 cup (240 grams) whole milk
flour, beating just until dough comes together and ½ cup (120 grams) unsweetened coconut milk
stopping to scrape sides of bowl. ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar, divided
2. Switch to the dough hook attachment. With mixer 4 large egg yolks (74 grams)
on low speed, add butter, one cube at a time, beating 3¼ tablespoons (26 grams) cornstarch
until combined after each addition. Beat until dough ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
is elastic and smooth, 8 to 10 minutes. 1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla extract
3. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. Place dough ⅛ teaspoon coconut extract
in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover and let rise in 2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted butter, softened
a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until doubled
in size, 2 to 2½ hours. (Alternatively, cover and 1. In a medium saucepan, heat milks and ¼ cup
refrigerate dough overnight. Let it come to room (50 grams) sugar over medium heat, whisking
temperature and then let rise in a warm, draft-free frequently, until steaming. (Do not boil.)
place [75°F/24°C] until doubled in size, 2 to 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together egg yolks,
2½ hours, before proceeding.) cornstarch, salt, and remaining ¼ cup (50 grams)
4. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Spray sugar. Slowly add warm milk mixture, whisking
2 large sheets of plastic wrap with cooking spray. constantly. Pour mixture into saucepan; cook over
5. Lightly punch down dough. Cover and let stand medium heat, whisking constantly, until thickened
for 10 to 15 minutes. Turn out dough onto a lightly and boiling, 4 to 5 minutes. Whisk in extracts.
floured surface, and divide into 12 portions (about 3. Strain mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into
74 grams each). Using the palm of your hands, gently a large bowl. Whisk in butter until melted and
shape each portion into a round, smooth ball, lightly well combined. Cover with a piece of plastic wrap,
flouring your hands as needed. Place 3 to 4 inches pressing wrap directly onto surface of pastry cream
apart on prepared pans. Cover with plastic wrap, spray to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until an
side down, and let rise in a warm, draft-free place instant-read thermometer registers 65°F (18°C) to
(75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, 1½ to 2 hours. 70°F (21°C), 2½ to 3 hours.
61 bake from scratch
COCONUT-ORANGE TIGER ¼ cup (31 grams) all-purpose flour, *We used Red Star® Active Dry Yeast.
TAILS 1 tablespoon (8 grams) at a time, if needed.
Makes 14 doughnuts (Dough will still be quite soft and slightly COCONUT-ORANGE GLAZE
sticky but should not seem excessively wet.) Makes about 2½ cups
The fun name for these large twisted 4. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray.
doughnuts supposedly comes from their Place dough in bowl, turning to grease 3½ cups (420 grams) confectioners’
resemblance to the zig-zag pattern that the top. Cover and let rise in a warm, draft- sugar, sifted
big cat’s swinging tail makes. If you’d like free place (75°F/24°C) until doubled in 2 teaspoons (2 grams) orange zest
to keep the doughnut plain and get your size, 40 minutes to 1 hour. (Alternatively, 3 tablespoons (45 grams) fresh orange
coconut flavor through just the glaze, you cover and refrigerate overnight. When juice
can use all whole milk and vanilla extract in ready to use, proceed as directed.) 3 tablespoons (63 grams) light corn
the dough. 5. Place 3 large baking sheets upside down, syrup
and spray with cooking spray. Cut 2 tablespoons (30 grams) canned
½ cup (120 grams) warm water 14 (6-inch) squares of parchment paper, unsweetened coconut milk
(105°F/41°C to 110°F/43°C) and place on prepared pans. Spray 2 tablespoons (28 grams) coconut oil,
4 tablespoons (48 grams) granulated parchment with cooking spray. Spray melted and cooled
sugar, divided 3 large sheets of plastic wrap with cooking ½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract
1 (0.25-ounce) package (7 grams) spray. ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
active dry yeast* 6. Punch down dough. Lightly dust a work ⅛ to ¼ teaspoon (up to 1 gram) coconut
4 to 4¼ cups (500 to 531 grams) surface with all-purpose flour; turn out extract
unbleached all-purpose flour, dough onto prepared surface, and divide
divided, plus more for dusting into 14 portions (about 80 grams each). 1. In a large bowl, whisk together all
½ cup (120 grams) whole milk, room Roll 1 portion of dough into an 18-inch- ingredients until smooth and well
temperature long log of equal thickness. (Keep combined. Use immediately.
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, remaining dough covered with plastic
melted and cooled wrap, spray side down.) Place a finger in
¼ cup (32 grams) bread flour center of dough log, and fold log in half
¼ cup (60 grams) canned unsweetened crosswise. Twist dough 4 to 5 times to
coconut milk, room temperature look like a rope, and pinch ends together.
2 large eggs (100 grams), room Repeat with remaining dough.
temperature 7. Gently transfer doughnuts to prepared
1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) kosher salt parchment squares, spacing 2 to 3 inches
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract apart. Cover doughnuts with plastic
¼ teaspoon (1 gram) coconut extract wrap, spray side down, and let rise in a
Vegetable oil, for frying warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until
Coconut-Orange Glaze (recipe follows) puffed, 40 minutes to 1 hour.
8. In a large heavy-bottomed saucepan,
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer, stir pour oil to a depth of 2 inches, and
together ½ cup (120 grams) warm water, heat over medium heat until a deep-fry
1 tablespoon (12 grams) sugar, and yeast thermometer registers 365°F (185°C).
by hand; let stand until foamy, about 9. Line 2 large rimmed baking sheets with
10 minutes. paper towels.
2. Add 2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose 10. Working in batches, use parchment
flour, whole milk, melted butter, bread paper to gently pick up doughnuts and
flour, coconut milk, eggs, salt, extracts, add to oil. (Do not place parchment paper
and remaining 3 tablespoons (36 grams) in oil.) Fry until golden brown, about
sugar to yeast mixture; using the paddle 1 minute per side. Remove doughnuts
attachment, beat at low speed just until from oil using a spider strainer, and place
combined. Increase mixer speed to medium; on prepared pans. Let cool completely.
beat until well combined, about 1 minute. 11. Line 2 large rimmed baking sheets with
Add 2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour; parchment paper; place wire racks on top.
beat at low speed just until combined. 12. Dip cooled doughnuts halfway into
Increase mixer speed to medium; beat until Coconut-Orange Glaze; lift straight up
well combined, about 1 minute. and gently swirl in a circular motion to let
3. Switch to the dough hook attachment. excess drip off. Place doughnuts, glaze
Beat at medium speed just until dough side up on prepared rack, and let stand
starts to pull away from sides of bowl, until glaze is set, 20 to 30 minutes. Best
3 to 4 minutes; add up to remaining served same day as made.
COCONUT MAGIC BARS
Makes 18 bars

Sometimes called Hello Dolly Bars (though no one

knows why), these nostalgic treats are easy to make
and perfect for an afternoon pick-me-up.

½ cup plus 3 tablespoons (155 grams) unsalted

butter
2¼ cups (293 grams) graham cracker crumbs
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
1 (14-ounce) can (396 grams) sweetened
condensed milk
1¼ cups (105 grams) sweetened flaked coconut
1 cup (113 grams) coarsely chopped pecans
1 cup (170 grams) semisweet chocolate chips
Garnish: flaked sea salt

1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line a 9-inch

square baking pan with foil, letting excess extend
over sides of pan; spray foil with baking spray with
flour.
2. In a small saucepan, melt butter over medium
heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until butter
turns a golden brown color and smells nutty,
5 to 6 minutes. Remove from heat, and let cool
slightly.
3. In a medium bowl, stir together browned
butter, graham cracker crumbs, and kosher salt
until well combined and mixture holds together
when pressed. Using the bottom of a small
measuring cup, press mixture into bottom of
prepared pan.
4. Bake until fragrant and dry to the touch, about
15 minutes. Leave oven on.
5. Pour condensed milk onto warm prepared
crust. Sprinkle with half of coconut, half of
pecans, and half of chocolate chips. Repeat
with remaining coconut, remaining pecans, and
remaining chocolate chips. Lightly press with a
clean spatula to adhere. Garnish with sea salt, if
desired.
6. Bake until fragrant and lightly golden brown,
30 to 40 minutes. Let cool completely in pan.
Using excess foil as handles, remove from pan,
and cut into bars. Store in an airtight container
for up to 1 week.

march | april 2024 66

 FRENCH COCONUT PIE 1. Position oven rack in bottom third of Spoon onto pie, and garnish with toasted
Makes 1 (9-inch) pie oven. Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). coconut, if desired. Refrigerate in an
2. On a lightly floured surface, roll All- airtight container for up to 3 days.
This pie isn’t French at all. In fact, it Butter Pie Dough into a 12-inch circle
originated in United States port cities like (about ⅛ inch thick). Transfer to a 9-inch ALL-BUTTER PIE DOUGH
New Orleans, Louisiana, and was first made pie pan, pressing into bottom and up sides. Makes 1 (9-inch) crust
with ingredients from French Guiana, which Trim excess dough to ½ inch beyond edge
is likely how it got its name. of pan, if needed. Fold edges under, and 1½ cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour
crimp as desired. Freeze until firm, about 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
All-Butter Pie Dough (recipe follows) 15 minutes. ½ cup (113 grams) cold unsalted butter,
1½ cups (300 grams) granulated sugar 3. In a large bowl, whisk together sugar, cubed
3 tablespoons (24 grams) all-purpose flour, and salt. Whisk in eggs, melted ¼ cup (60 grams) ice water, plus more
flour, plus more for dusting butter, and 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla if needed
¼ teaspoon kosher salt until combined. Whisk in buttermilk.
3 large eggs (150 grams), room Stir in chopped coconut. Pour into 1. In the work bowl of a food processor,
temperature prepared crust. pulse flour and salt until combined. Add
6 tablespoons (84 grams) unsalted 4. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes. Loosely cold butter, and pulse until mixture is
butter, melted and cooled slightly cover with foil, and reduce oven crumbly and butter pieces are pea-size.
1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla extract, temperature to 350°F (180°C); bake With processor running, add ¼ cup
divided until edges are set but center still (60 grams) ice water in a slow, steady
¾ cup (180 grams) whole buttermilk, has a slight jiggle and an instant-read stream just until dough comes together.
room temperature thermometer inserted in center registers (Mixture may appear crumbly. It should
2 cups (200 grams) lightly packed 200°F (93°C), 40 to 45 minutes more. be moist and hold together when
sweetened flaked coconut, coarsely (The pie may puff when removed from pinched.) Add more ice water if needed.
chopped the oven and then deflate slightly as it 2. Turn out dough onto a clean surface,
½ cup (120 grams) cold heavy whipping cools.) Let cool completely on a wire rack. and shape into a disk. Tightly wrap in
cream Refrigerate until ready to serve. plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least
Garnish: toasted sweetened flaked 5. Just before serving, in a medium bowl, 1 hour or up to 2 days. Let dough stand at
coconut whisk together cold cream and remaining room temperature for 10 to 15 minutes
½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla until before rolling if refrigerating for longer
thickened and medium-stiff peaks form. than 1 hour.

67 bake from scratch

Lemon-Poppy Seed
Streusel Bread, page 79
 Enjoy these
endlessly
snackable
cakes, cookies,
and bread

LEMON
POPPY SEED
RECIPES TO
BAKE NOW
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
STEPHANIE WELBOURNE STEELE
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY
AMANDA STABILE
FOOD STYLING BY
KATIE MOON DICKERSON
STYLING BY
MAGGIE HILL

march | april 2024 70

 VANILLA-LEMON-POPPY SEED 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with pipe a small border of buttercream along
LAYER CAKE the paddle attachment, whisk together edge of cake layer. Spread half of lemon
Makes 1 (8-inch) cake flour, sugar, poppy seeds, lemon zest, curd within border. Top with second
baking powder, salt, and baking soda by cake layer. Spread ¼ cup (55 grams)
We used the reverse creaming method to hand. Add butter; beat at medium-low buttercream in a very thin layer on top;
create a cake batter that bakes up nice and speed until butter is incorporated and pipe a small border of buttercream along
level with a delicate crumb to absorb every mixture resembles coarse crumbs, about edge of cake layer. Spread remaining
drop of the lemon curd between its layers. 2 minutes. lemon curd within border. Top with
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together milk, remaining cake layer. Spread remaining
3¼ cups (406 grams) all-purpose flour eggs, and vanilla extract. With mixer on buttercream on top and sides of cake as
2 cups (400 grams) granulated sugar low speed, add one-third of milk mixture desired. Garnish with poppy seeds and
2 tablespoons (18 grams) poppy seeds (about ⅔ cup or 130 grams) to flour lemon twists, if desired. Refrigerate for
2 tablespoons (6 grams) lemon zest mixture. Increase mixer speed to medium, 30 minutes before serving. Refrigerate in
2½ teaspoons (12.5 grams) baking and beat until light and fluffy, 1 to an airtight container for up to 3 days.
powder 2 minutes. Gradually add remaining milk
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt mixture, beating until well combined and *We used Bonne Maman® Lemon Curd.
¼ teaspoon (1.25 grams) baking soda stopping to scrape sides of bowl. Divide
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, batter among prepared pans (about VANILLA BUTTERCREAM
softened 2 cups or 470 grams each). Makes about 6½ cups
1 cup (240 grams) whole milk, room 4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted
temperature in center comes out clean, about 2⅔ cups (604 grams) unsalted butter,
3 large eggs (150 grams), room 25 minutes. Let cool in pans on wire racks softened
temperature for 10 minutes. Remove from pans, and 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract let cool completely on wire racks. 6½ cups (780 grams) confectioners’ sugar
Vanilla Buttercream (recipe follows) 5. Spoon 1 cup (220 grams) Vanilla 3 tablespoons (45 grams) heavy
½ cup (160 grams) lemon curd* Buttercream into a pastry bag; cut a whipping cream
Garnish: poppy seeds, lemon twists ¼-inch opening in tip. 2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract
6. Level cooled cake layers, if desired.
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray Place 1 cake layer on a serving plate. 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
3 (8-inch) round cake pans with baking Spread ¼ cup (55 grams) Vanilla with the paddle attachment, beat butter
spray with flour. Line bottom of pans with Buttercream in a very thin layer on top; and salt at medium speed until smooth
parchment paper. and creamy. With mixer on low speed,
gradually add confectioners’ sugar,
beating until combined and stopping to
scrape bottom and sides of bowl. Beat in
cream and vanilla. Increase mixer speed
to high, and beat until pale and fluffy, 1 to
2 minutes. Use immediately.

71 bake from scratch

73 bake from scratch
LEMON-POPPY SEED-RICOTTA COOKIES
Makes about 30 cookies

These soft, cake-like cookies stay moist for days thanks to

a buttery dough that’s enriched with creamy ricotta cheese.
Refrigerating the dough firms it up for easier scooping.

½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, softened

1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar
2 large eggs (100 grams), room temperature
1 cup (225 grams) whole-milk ricotta cheese*
1 tablespoon (8 grams) lemon zest
2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract
2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons (18 grams) poppy seeds
2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
Cream Cheese Glaze (recipe follows)
Garnish: lemon zest, poppy seeds

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle

attachment, beat butter and sugar at medium speed until
fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of bowl.
Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition.
Add ricotta, lemon zest, and vanilla, beating just until
combined.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, poppy seeds,
baking powder, and salt. With mixer on low speed,
gradually add flour mixture to butter mixture, beating
just until combined and stopping to scrape sides of bowl.
(Dough will be sticky.) Cover with plastic wrap; refrigerate
for 1 hour.
3. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line rimmed baking
sheets with parchment paper.
4. Using a 1½-tablespoon spring-loaded scoop, scoop
dough (about 32 grams each), and place 2 inches apart on
prepared pans.
5. Bake until lightly browned, 12 to 14 minutes. Let cool
on pans for 5 minutes. Remove from pans, and let cool
completely on wire racks.
6. Spread Cream Cheese Glaze onto cooled cookies;
garnish with lemon zest and poppy seeds, if desired. Store
in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

*We used BelGioioso® Ricotta con Latte® Cheese.

CREAM CHEESE GLAZE

Makes about 1¼ cups

4 ounces (113 grams) cream cheese, softened

2 cups (240 grams) confectioners’ sugar
2 tablespoons (30 grams) fresh lemon juice

1. In a medium bowl, whisk cream cheese until smooth.

Add half of confectioners’ sugar; whisk until smooth.
Whisk in lemon juice. Whisk in remaining confectioners’
sugar until smooth and well combined. Use immediately.
 MEYER LEMON OLIVE OIL AND 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray CANDIED MEYER LEMON SLICES
POPPY SEED CAKE a 9-inch round cake pan with baking Makes about 20 slices
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake spray with flour. Line bottom of pan with
parchment paper. 1½ cups (300 grams) granulated sugar
Using candied fruits to decorate is a simple, 2. In a large bowl, whisk together ¾ cup (180 grams) water
easy way to elevate the look of your cakes granulated sugar and lemon zest until 2 medium Meyer lemons (about
as well as add another layer of texture in sugar is fragrant. Whisk in oil, milk, eggs, 320 grams), sliced ⅛ inch thick
every bite. lemon juice, and vanilla.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, 1. In a medium saucepan, stir together
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar poppy seeds, baking powder, salt, and sugar and 3⁄4 cup (180 grams) water;
1 tablespoon (3 grams) Meyer lemon baking soda. Gradually add flour mixture bring to a boil over high heat. Add lemon
zest to sugar mixture, whisking until just slices, and reduce heat to medium-low.
¾ cup (168 grams) Meyer lemon olive combined. Pour batter into prepared pan. Cook until lemon rind is translucent and
oil* Sprinkle sparkling sugar evenly on top of softened, 20 to 30 minutes.
½ cup (120 grams) whole milk batter. 2. On a rimmed baking sheet, place a wire
2 large eggs (100 grams) 4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in rack.
2 tablespoons (30 grams) fresh Meyer center comes out clean and an instant- 3. Using tongs, remove lemon slices from
lemon juice read thermometer inserted in center syrup, and place flat on prepared rack.
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract registers 205°F (96°C), 35 to Reserve syrup for another use, if desired.
2¼ cups (281 grams) all-purpose flour 40 minutes. Let cool in pan for Let lemon slices cool completely before
2 teaspoons (6 grams) poppy seeds 10 minutes. Remove from pan, and let using.

* pro tip
1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking powder cool completely on a wire rack. Just
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt before serving, garnish with Candied
¼ teaspoon (1.25 grams) baking soda Meyer Lemon Slices, if desired. Store in If Meyer lemons aren’t in season or you
1 tablespoon (12 grams) sparkling sugar an airtight container for up to 3 days. cannot find them in your area, you can use
Garnish: Candied Meyer Lemon Slices regular lemons for both the batter and the
(recipe follows) *We used Williams Sonoma Meyer Lemon candied slices, as well as plain olive oil.
Infused Olive Oil.
75 bake from scratch
* pro tip
A spice grinder, or alternatively,
a mortar and pestle, works best
for grinding the poppy seeds into
a paste for the filling; the seeds
are too small to adequately make
contact with the blade of a food
processor or mixer.
LEMON-POPPY SEED
HAMANTASCHEN
Makes 18 cookies

Poppy seeds are the traditional filling of

these cookies, which are associated with the
Jewish holiday Purim. The name refers to
the villain of the Purim story, Haman.

Filling:
⅓ cup (47 grams) poppy seeds
4 tablespoons (48 grams) granulated
sugar, divided
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
⅓ cup (80 grams) whole milk Stir in poppy seed mixture. Cover
2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted with a piece of plastic wrap,
butter pressing wrap directly onto surface
1 large egg yolk (19 grams) of filling to prevent a skin from
1 teaspoon (1 gram) lemon zest forming. Refrigerate until chilled, at
least 1 hour.
Dough: 4. For dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer
¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter, fitted with the paddle attachment, beat
softened butter, confectioners’ sugar, and lemon
1¼ cups (150 grams) confectioners’ zest at medium speed until creamy, 3 to
sugar 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of
1 tablespoon (3 grams) lemon zest bowl. Beat in egg and vanilla.
1 large egg (50 grams) 5. In a medium bowl, whisk together
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract flour and salt. With mixer on low speed,
2¾ cups (344 grams) all-purpose flour, gradually add flour mixture to butter
plus more for dusting mixture, beating until a smooth dough
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt forms. Turn out dough, and press into a
rectangle (about 1 inch thick). Wrap in
1. For filling: In a spice grinder, process plastic wrap, and refrigerate until firm,
poppy seeds, 2 tablespoons (24 grams) about 30 minutes.
granulated sugar, and salt until finely 6. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with
ground, 3 to 4 minutes. parchment paper.
2. In a small saucepan, heat milk and 7. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough
butter over medium heat until bubbles to ¼-inch thickness. (If the dough is too
form around sides of pan. (Do not boil.) stiff, let stand at room temperature for
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together 15 minutes.) Using a 3¼-inch round
egg yolk, lemon zest, and remaining cutter, cut dough, rerolling scraps
2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated as necessary. Spoon 2 teaspoons 8. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
sugar. Slowly add hot milk mixture, (10 grams) filling into center of each 9. Re-pinch corners of hamantaschen to
whisking constantly. Return mixture dough circle. Fold dough in from three ensure they’re well sealed.
to pan; cook over medium-low heat, sides, overlapping at corners, and pinch 10. Bake until bottoms and corners
whisking frequently, until thickened, edges together to seal, leaving a small are golden, 20 to 25 minutes, rotating
1 to 2 minutes. Strain mixture through opening over filling. Place 2 inches apart pans halfway through baking. Let cool
a fine-mesh sieve into a medium bowl. on prepared pans. Refrigerate for 1 hour. completely on pans.
march | april 2024 78
 LEMON-POPPY SEED STREUSEL BREAD
Makes 1 (8½x4½-inch) loaf

The delicate crunch of the streusel topping gives way to an

aromatic, soft crumb. With added texture from the poppy
seeds, you won’t be able to get enough of this loaf. It’s great
for breakfast, brunch, dessert, or an anytime treat.

Streusel:
¼ cup (31 grams) all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons (8 grams) granulated sugar
1 teaspoon (3 grams) poppy seeds
1½ tablespoons (21 grams) cold unsalted butter

Batter:
1¼ cups (250 grams) granulated sugar
3 tablespoons (9 grams) lemon zest
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, softened
3 large eggs (150 grams), room temperature
½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract
2¼ cups (281 grams) all-purpose flour
1½ tablespoons (13.5 grams) poppy seeds
2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
½ cup (120 grams) whole buttermilk, room temperature
2 tablespoons (30 grams) fresh lemon juice

1. For streusel: In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,

sugar, and poppy seeds. Using a pastry cutter or 2 forks, cut
in cold butter until incorporated and mixture is crumbly.
Refrigerate until ready to use, at least 30 minutes.
2. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Spray an 8½x4½-
inch loaf pan with baking spray with flour. Line pan with
parchment paper, letting excess extend over all sides of pan.
3. For batter: In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together
sugar and lemon zest by hand until sugar is fragrant. Add
butter; using the paddle attachment, beat at medium
speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to
scrape bottom and sides of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time,
beating well after each addition and stopping to scrape
sides of bowl. Beat in vanilla.
4. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, poppy seeds,
baking powder, and salt. In a small bowl, whisk together
buttermilk and lemon juice. With mixer on low speed,
gradually add flour mixture to sugar mixture alternately
with buttermilk mixture, beginning and ending with flour
mixture, beating just until combined after each addition.
Spread batter into prepared pan. Firmly tap pan on a
kitchen towel-lined counter to settle batter. Top batter
with streusel.
5. Bake for 20 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to
350°F (180°C), and bake until a wooden pick inserted in
center comes out with a few moist crumbs and an instant-
read thermometer inserted in center registers at least
205°F (96°C), 50 to 55 minutes more. Let cool in pan for
15 minutes. Remove from pan, and let cool completely on a
wire rack. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
79 bake from scratch
The simplicity of pound cake creates an
excellent base for numerous variations
of the oh-so-delicious heirloom recipe,
from a marbled delight to an Irish
cream dream and everything between

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KYLE CARPENTER

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY OLA AGBODZA
FOOD STYLING BY KATIE MOON DICKERSON
STYLING BY MAGGIE HILL
P E R F E C T I O N
PEANUT BUTTER COOKIE
CAKE
Makes 1 (6-cup) cake

Layers of crunchy peanut butter cookie

crumbles are baked within a rich and
moist cream cheese pound cake that’s
generously topped with creamy peanut
butter icing It’s a peanut lover’s paradise!

Cookie:
3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted
butter, room temperature
2 tablespoons (32 grams) creamy
peanut butter
¼ cup (55 grams) firmly packed light
brown sugar
½ cup (64 grams) all-purpose flour
½ cup (57 grams) chopped unsalted
peanuts
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt

Cake:
¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter,
softened
⅔ cup (170 grams) creamy peanut
butter
4 ounces (113 grams) full-fat cream
cheese, room temperature
½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
½ cup (110 grams) firmly packed
light brown sugar
2 large eggs (100 grams), room
temperature
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
1⅓ cups (167 grams) all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
¼ cup (60 grams) whole milk, room
temperature

Icing:
1½ cups (180 grams) confectioners’
sugar
¼ cup (64 grams) creamy peanut
butter
¼ cup (60 grams) heavy whipping
cream
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract

1. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Line

a baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. For cookie: In the bowl of a
stand mixer fitted with the paddle
attachment, beat butter, peanut
butter, and brown sugar at medium
speed until light and creamy, about
2 minutes, stopping to scrape bottom and FRENCH MARBLE POUND Tap pan on a kitchen towel-lined counter
sides of bowl. Add flour, peanuts, and salt; CAKE 2 to 3 times to help level batter and fill
beat at low speed until just combined. Makes 1 (8½x4½-inch) cake pan. Create another layer of batters in
Transfer dough to prepared pan; gently a checkerboard pattern, placing vanilla
pat into a ⅛-inch-thick circle. This beautifully swirled chocolate and vanilla on top of chocolate from first layer and
3. Bake until golden brown, 20 to sour cream pound cake topped with crunchy vice versa. Tap pan again. Repeat with
25 minutes. Let cool completely. Leave hazelnut ganache is known as gâteau any remaining batter. Using a knife,
oven on. marbré. And you don’t need make two swirl batters together in a zigzag pattern
4. Break cooled cookie into bite-size different batters, so it’s as easy to bake as it through length and width of pan. Tap pan
pieces. is pretty. to help level batter and fill in any gaps.
5. For cake: Clean bowl of stand mixer 6. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in
and paddle attachment. Using the paddle ¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter, center comes out clean or an instant-
attachment, beat butter, peanut butter, softened read thermometer inserted in center
cream cheese, granulated sugar, and 1½ cups (300 grams) granulated sugar registers 200°F (93°C), 1 hour and
brown sugar at medium speed until light 3 large eggs (150 grams), room 20 minutes to 1½ hours, covering with foil
and fluffy, 5 to 7 minutes, stopping to temperature to prevent excess browning, if necessary.
scrape bottom and sides of bowl and 1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla extract Let cool in pan for 10 minutes. Remove
paddle. Add eggs, one at a time, beating 2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour from pan, and let cool completely on a
well after each addition. Beat in vanilla. 1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking powder wire rack.
6. In a small bowl, whisk together flour ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt 7. Wrap cooled cake in plastic wrap, and
and salt. With mixer on low speed, add ½ cup (120 grams) sour cream, room refrigerate for 1 hour.
flour mixture to butter mixture in three temperature 8. Unwrap cake, and return to wire rack.
additions alternately with milk, beginning 2 ounces (57 grams) bittersweet Pour Hazelnut Crunch Ganache all over
and ending with flour mixture, beating chocolate, melted and cooled slightly top and sides of cake, spreading with an
just until combined after each addition. 2 teaspoons (4 grams) Dutch process offset spatula to fully cover. Refrigerate
7. Spray a 6-cup charlotte cake pan with cocoa powder, sifted until set, about 10 minutes, or let stand at
baking spray with flour. Sprinkle ½ cup Hazelnut Crunch Ganache (recipe room temperature for 25 minutes. Store
(about 40 grams) cookie crumbles follows) in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
around inner circle in bottom of prepared
pan. 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray HAZELNUT CRUNCH GANACHE
8. Gently fold 1½ cups (about 146 grams) an 8½x4½-inch loaf pan with baking spray Makes about 1¾ cups
cookie crumbles into batter. (Reserve with flour. Line pan with parchment paper,
remaining crumbles.) Carefully spoon letting excess extend over sides of pan. 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (270 grams)
batter into prepared pan, smoothing with 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with heavy whipping cream
an offset spatula. Firmly tap pan on a the paddle attachment, beat butter and 1 tablespoon (14 grams) unsalted
kitchen towel-lined counter several times sugar at medium speed until fluffy, 3 to butter, softened
to settle batter. 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of 8 ounces (227 grams) dark chocolate,
9. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating finely chopped
center comes out clean, 55 minutes to well after each addition. Beat in vanilla. ¾ cup (85 grams) finely chopped
1 hour and 5 minutes, covering with foil 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, hazelnuts
halfway through baking to prevent excess baking powder, and salt. With mixer on
browning. Let cool in pan for 15 minutes. low speed, add flour mixture to butter 1. In a medium saucepan, heat cream
Invert cake onto a wire rack, and let cool mixture in three additions alternately with and butter over medium heat, stirring
completely. sour cream, beginning and ending with frequently, just until bubbles form around
10. For icing: In a large bowl, whisk flour mixture, beating just until combined sides of pan. (Do not boil.) Remove from
together confectioners’ sugar, peanut after each addition. heat.
butter, cream, and vanilla until smooth 4. In another medium bowl, stir together 2. In a medium bowl, combine chocolate
and well combined. Spread onto cooled one-third of batter (about 1⅓ cups or and hot cream mixture. Let stand for
cake; sprinkle with remaining cookie 325 grams), melted chocolate, and cocoa 5 minutes; stir until chocolate is melted
crumbles. Store in airtight container until combined. and mixture is smooth. Stir in hazelnuts.
for up to 3 days. 5. Spread one-third of vanilla batter Use immediately.

* pro tip
(about ½ cup or 216 grams) in bottom of
prepared pan. Spoon vanilla and chocolate
Cookie crumble in steps 1–4 can be made batters by heaping tablespoonfuls (about
a day ahead and stored in an airtight 15 grams each) in a checkerboard pattern
container. into pan (3 scoops wide along short side).

march | april 2024 84

French M
arble Pou
nd Cake,
page 84
 88
d Cake, page
Poun
Persian Love
IRISH CREAM POUND CAKE at medium speed until fluffy, 5 to 2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder
Makes 1 (10-cup) Bundt cake 7 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of 1½ teaspoons (3 grams) ground cardamom
bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating ¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt
This exquisite pound cake has a boozy twist well after each addition; scrape sides of ½ cup (120 grams) plain whole yogurt,
that is excellent for any occasion and will be bowl. Beat in vanilla. room temperature
your new go-to for St. Patrick’s Day! Irish 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour
cream liqueur—a rich blend of Irish whiskey, and salt. In a small bowl, combine liqueur Glaze:
cream, and sugar—is added to the batter and and buttermilk. With mixer on low speed, 1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar
the glaze, resulting in a tender cake redolent add flour mixture to butter mixture in 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water, room
of delicate Irish flavors in every bite. A slice of three additions alternately with liqueur temperature
this cake served with a steaming cup of coffee mixture, beginning and ending with flour ⅛ teaspoon orange blossom water
(spiked with Irish cream, perhaps!) is a match mixture, beating just until combined after
made in heaven. each addition. Garnish: chopped pistachios, chopped
4. Spray a 10-cup Bundt pan with candied orange slices
Cake: baking spray with flour. Spoon batter
1¼ cups (283 grams) unsalted butter, into prepared pan, smoothing top with 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
room temperature an offset spatula. Firmly tap pan on a 2. For cake: In the bowl of a stand mixer
1¼ cups (275 grams) firmly packed dark kitchen towel-lined counter several times fitted with the paddle attachment, beat
brown sugar to settle batter. butter, granulated sugar, orange zest,
½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar 5. Bake until a wooden pick inserted and saffron at medium speed until fluffy,
5 large eggs (250 grams), room near center comes out clean, 1 hour and 3 to 4 minutes, stopping to scrape sides
temperature 10 minutes to 1 hour and 20 minutes, of bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, beating
2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract covering with foil halfway through baking well after each addition. Beat in vanilla
2⅔ cups (333 grams) all-purpose flour to prevent excess browning. Let cool in and orange blossom water.
1¼ teaspoons (3.75 grams) kosher salt pan for 15 minutes. Invert cake onto a 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together
¾ cup (180 grams) Irish cream liqueur, wire rack, and let cool completely. flours, baking powder, cardamom,
room temperature 6. For glaze: In another medium bowl, and salt. With mixer on low speed,
½ cup (120 grams) whole buttermilk, whisk together confectioners’ sugar, add flour mixture to butter mixture in
room temperature melted butter, liqueur, and vanilla until three additions alternately with yogurt,
smooth and well combined; spoon onto beginning and ending with flour mixture,
Glaze: cooled cake. Store in an airtight container beating just until combined after each
1¾ cups (210 grams) confectioners’ sugar for up to 3 days. addition.
2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted 4. Spray a 10-cup Bundt pan with baking
butter, melted PERSIAN LOVE POUND CAKE spray with flour. Spoon batter into
2 tablespoons (30 grams) Irish cream Makes 1 (10-cup) Bundt cake prepared pan, smoothing with an offset
liqueur spatula. Firmly tap pan on a kitchen
½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract Legend has it that a Persian woman first towel-lined counter several times to
created this cake, filled with the flavors and settle batter.
1. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). fragrances of a Persian garden in spring, to 5. Bake until a wooden pick inserted
2. For cake: In the bowl of a stand mixer make a prince fall in love with her. Bursting near center comes out clean, 1 hour to
fitted with the paddle attachment, beat with cardamom, saffron, orange blossom 1 hour and 10 minutes, covering with foil
butter, brown sugar, and granulated sugar water, and pistachios, this aromatic Bundt halfway through baking to prevent excess
has a touch of romance that will win over browning. Let cool in pan for 15 minutes.
any heart in one bite. Invert cake onto a wire rack, and let cool
completely.
Cake: 6. For glaze: In a medium bowl,
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, whisk together confectioners’ sugar,
room temperature 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water, and orange
2 cups (400 grams) granulated sugar blossom water until smooth; pour onto
2 teaspoons (2 grams) orange zest cooled cake. Garnish with pistachios and
1 teaspoon saffron threads candied orange, if desired. Store in an
3 large eggs (150 grams), room airtight container for up to 3 days.
temperature
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract Note: Much like almond extract, a little
½ to 1 teaspoon (2.5 to 5 grams) orange orange blossom water can go a long way in
blossom water (see Note) flavoring baked goods. If you aren’t familiar with
2½ cups (281 grams) all-purpose flour the ingredient or don’t like a strong presence of
1 cup (96 grams) almond flour it, use the smaller amount called for.
march | april 2024 88
ROASTED STRAWBERRY 5 to 7 minutes, stopping to
POUND CAKE scrape bottom and sides of bowl
Makes 1 (18-cup) cake and paddle. Add eggs, one at a
time, beating well after each
Roasting fresh berries concentrates their addition. Beat in vanilla.
flavor while also creating a delicious berry 6. In another large bowl, whisk
juice. The ruby strawberries are folded into together flour, baking powder,
rich buttermilk cake batter, and the sweet- and remaining 2¼ teaspoons
tart juice creates a pretty-in-pink glaze for (6.75 grams) salt. With mixer
this majestic cake. on low speed, gradually add
flour mixture to butter mixture
Cake: alternately with buttermilk,
2 pounds (907 grams) fresh beginning and ending with
strawberries, hulled and quartered flour mixture, beating just until
3½ cups (700 grams) granulated sugar, combined after each addition
divided and stopping to scrape bottom
2½ teaspoons (6.75 grams) kosher salt, and sides of bowl. Using a spatula,
divided fold in chopped strawberries until well
1½ cups (340 grams) unsalted butter, combined.
room temperature 7. Spray an 18-cup tube pan with baking
6 large eggs (300 grams), room spray with flour; using a pastry brush,
temperature spread any excess spray evenly in pan,
2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract blotting brush with a paper towel as
5 cups (625 grams) all-purpose flour needed. Spoon batter into prepared
2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder pan, smoothing with an offset spatula.
½ cup (120 grams) whole buttermilk, Forcefully tap pan on a kitchen towel-
room temperature lined counter several times to settle
batter and release as many air bubbles
Glaze: as possible.
1½ cups (180 grams) confectioners’ 8. Bake until a wooden pick inserted
sugar near center comes out clean and an
2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted instant-read thermometer inserted
butter, melted near center registers 205°F (96°C),
¼ teaspoon kosher salt 1 hour and 25 minutes to 1 hour and
35 minutes, rotating pan after
1. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). 40 minutes of baking and loosely
2. For cake: In a 13x9-inch baking covering with foil to prevent excess
dish, stir together strawberries, ¼ cup browning, if necessary. Let cool in pan
(50 grams) sugar, and ¼ teaspoon salt on a wire rack for 15 minutes. Remove
until well combined. from pan, and let cool completely, top
3. Bake until berries are fragrant, soft, side up, on a wire rack.
and have released ample juices, 30 to 9. For glaze: In a small bowl, whisk
40 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes. together 3 to 4 tablespoons (45 to
Reduce oven temperature to 325°F 60 grams) reserved roasted strawberry
(170°C). juice, confectioners’ sugar, melted butter,
4. Strain berries through a fine-mesh and salt until smooth and well combined;
sieve over a medium bowl, reserving spoon onto cooled cake. Store in an
liquids and solids. Let berries cool airtight container for up to 3 days.

*Bepro
completely, 15 to 20 minutes; chop into
¼-inch pieces, and return to sieve over tip
bowl to collect any extra juices. sure you use a solid tube pan for this
5. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with cake; batter will leak out of a tube pan
the paddle attachment, beat butter and with a removable bottom.
remaining 3¼ cups (650 grams) sugar at
medium-high speed until light and fluffy,

march | april 2024 90

 TH E
IF
FITS
These pastries
are crisp, light,
and endlessly
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
snackable
KYLE CARPENTER
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY
OLA AGBODZA
FOOD STYLING BY
KATIE MOON DICKERSON
STYLING BY
MAGGIE HILL
 PÂTE À CHOUX
or choux pastry, is a twice-cooked dough—ࡼrst on the
,

stovetop and again in the oven. Like a magic air bubble

of pastry, it uses steam rather than a leavening agent to
rise in the oven. While baking, the outside sets, with the
fat crisping to a golden exterior. Inside, the trapped air
pockets combine and expand into one perfect bubble.
The name comes from the French word for “cabbage”
(choux) because of how the bubbles resemble small
cabbages. We used one choux dough to create four
classic French pastries worthy of a Parisian pâtisserie.

93 bake from scratch

Chou
qu
ett
es

,p
ag
e9
6
CHOUX PASTRY DOUGH add 1⁄2 cup (57 grams) cheese and oregano 2. Using a permanent marker and a
to dough, beating until well combined. 11⁄2-inch round cutter as a guide, draw
1⁄2 cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, 4. Transfer dough to a large pastry circles at least 11⁄2 inches apart on another
cubed bag fitted with a 1⁄2-inch round piping sheet of parchment paper; slide template
1⁄2 cup (120 grams) water tip (Ateco #805). Place piping tip in under parchment on a prepared pan.
1⁄2 cup (120 grams) whole milk center of a drawn circle. Holding tip 3. In a medium saucepan, bring butter,
2 teaspoons (8 grams) granulated perpendicularly ½ inch above parchment ⅓ cup (80 grams) water, milk, granulated
sugar paper and stationary the entire time, sugar, and salt to a rolling boil over
1⁄2 teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt apply even pressure until batter reaches medium-high heat. Using a wooden
1 cup (125 grams) all-purpose flour edges of drawn circle. Stop applying spoon, stir in flour. Cook, stirring
5 large eggs (250 grams), room pressure, and move tip in a quick circular constantly, until a skin forms on bottom
temperature motion as you lift away to help prevent a of pan and mixture pulls away from sides
point from forming on top. Repeat with of pan and forms a ball, 1 to 2 minutes.
1. In a medium saucepan, bring butter, remaining batter until pan is full. Wet 4. Transfer mixture to the bowl of a stand
1⁄2 cup (120 grams) water, milk, sugar, and your finger with water, and press down mixer fitted with the paddle attachment;
salt to a rolling boil over medium-high any points to create a smooth top, if beat at medium speed until dough cools
heat. Using a wooden spoon, stir in flour. necessary. Slide template out from under slightly, 3 to 4 minutes. Add 3 eggs
Cook, stirring constantly, until a skin piped batter, and place under parchment (150 grams), one at a time, beating until
forms on bottom of pan and mixture pulls on other prepared pans; pipe remaining combined after each addition. Batter
away from sides of pan and forms a ball, batter. will be shiny and will slowly move back
2 to 3 minutes. 5. Using a pastry brush, brush beaten egg together when a spatula is dragged
2. Transfer mixture to the bowl of a stand onto piped dough; sprinkle with remaining through it.
mixer fitted with the paddle attachment; 3⁄4 cup (75 grams) cheese. 5. Transfer batter to a large pastry
beat at low speed until dough cools 6. Bake, one pan at a time, for bag fitted with a 1⁄2-inch round piping
slightly, 3 to 4 minutes. Add eggs, one 10 minutes. Rotate pan, and bake until tip (Ateco #805). Place piping tip in
at a time, beating until smooth and fully puffed and deep golden brown, center of a drawn circle. Holding tip
combined after each addition. Batter about 10 minutes more. Let cool slightly perpendicularly ½ inch above parchment
will be shiny and will slowly move back on pans. Serve warm. paper and stationary the entire time,

* pro tip
together when a spatula is dragged apply even pressure until batter reaches
through it. edges of drawn circle. Stop applying
Use any fresh herb and firm cheese you pressure, and move tip in a quick circular
GOUGÈRES like in this recipe. motion as you lift away to help prevent a
Makes about 28 point from forming on top. Repeat with
CHOUQUETTES remaining batter until pan is full. Wet
Pronounced “goo-zhere,” these elegant little Makes about 20 your finger with water, and press down
bites will be the star of any cocktail party. any points to create a smooth top, if
A sprinkle of pearl sugar provides the necessary. Slide template out from under
Choux Pastry Dough (recipe precedes) perfect crunch to these airy little puffs, piped batter, and place under parchment
2 teaspoons (6 grams) garlic powder which are pronounced “shoo-keht.” on other prepared pans; pipe remaining
1 large egg (50 grams), room batter.
temperature and lightly beaten ⅓ cup (76 grams) unsalted butter, 6. In a small bowl, beat remaining
11⁄4 cups (142 grams) shredded fontina cubed 1 egg (50 grams). Using a pastry brush,
cheese, divided ⅓ cup (80 grams) water brush egg onto piped dough; sprinkle with
2 teaspoons (2 grams) chopped fresh ⅓ cup (80 grams) whole milk pearl sugar.
oregano 3 tablespoons (36 grams) granulated 7. Bake, one pan at a time, for 10 minutes.
sugar Rotate pan, and bake until fully puffed
1. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Line 1⁄2 teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt and deep golden brown, about 10 minutes
2 to 3 baking sheets with parchment 2⁄3 cup (83 grams) all-purpose flour more. Let cool completely on pans. Serve
paper. 4 large eggs (200 grams), room immediately.
2. Using a permanent marker and a temperature and divided
1½-inch round cutter as a guide, draw ⅓ cup (67 grams) Swedish pearl sugar
circles at least 1½ inches apart on another Head to
sheet of parchment paper; slide template 1. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Line [Link]/shop
under parchment on a prepared pan. 2 to 3 baking sheets with parchment to purchase Swedish and
3. Prepare Choux Pastry Dough as paper. Belgian pearl sugars.
directed, adding garlic powder to flour;

march | april 2024 96

 ROASTED STRAWBERRY 6. Bake, one pan at a time, on center rack more disks. Freeze disks on a baking sheet
CHOUX AU CRAQUELIN for 15 minutes. Rotate pan; remove foil or in a resealable plastic bag until ready
Makes about 24 from top shelf, and place foil directly on to use.
top of puffs. Bake until fully puffed and
Craquelin is a cookie-like dough that’s deep golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes ROASTED STRAWBERRY MASCARPONE
baked on top of choux pastry for a crisp more. Let cool completely on pans. WHIPPED CREAM
texture and added flavor. An additional 7. Using a serrated knife, cut each cooled Makes about 7 cups
egg white in the choux dough gives these choux puff in half horizontally.
pastries a little extra structure to hold onto 8. Place Roasted Strawberry Mascarpone 12 ounces (340 grams) mascarpone
the luxurious whipped strawberry cream Whipped Cream in a large pastry bag cheese*, softened
filling. fitted with a 1⁄2-inch open star piping tip 1⅓ cups (325 grams) Roasted
(Ateco #825). Pipe cream into bottom Strawberries (recipe follows)
Choux Pastry Dough (recipe on page 96) half of each puff, and place top half on 3⁄4 cup (90 grams) confectioners’ sugar
1 large egg white (30 grams), room top. Serve immediately, or refrigerate 2 to 3 tablespoons (30 to 45 grams)
temperature until ready to serve. Best served same reserved strawberry juice from
Strawberry Craquelin Dough (recipe day. Roasted Strawberries
follows) 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
Roasted Strawberry Mascarpone
Whipped Cream (recipe follows)
*pro tip 1½ cups (360 grams) cold heavy
whipping cream
Freezing the piped choux dough before
topping with frozen craquelin ensures a
1. Position one oven rack on top shelf of 1. In the work bowl of a stand mixer
lot of steam for a high rise when the cold
oven, and place a large sheet of foil on it. elements hit the hot oven. fitted with the whisk attachment, beat
Position another oven rack in center of mascarpone, Roasted Strawberries,
oven. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). STRAWBERRY CRAQUELIN DOUGH confectioners’ sugar, strawberry juice,
Line 2 to 3 baking sheets with parchment Makes about 30 pieces and vanilla at medium speed until well
paper. combined, 1 to 2 minutes. Add cold
2. Using a permanent marker and a 1 cup (125 grams) all-purpose flour cream in a slow, steady stream, beating
2-inch round cutter as a guide, draw 2⁄3 cup (147 grams) firmly packed light until well combined; scrape sides of bowl.
circles at least 11⁄2 inches apart on another brown sugar Beat at high speed until stiff peaks form,
sheet of parchment paper; slide template 3 tablespoons (18 grams) powdered 1 to 2 minutes. Use immediately.
under parchment on a prepared pan. freeze-dried strawberries
3. Prepare Choux Pastry Dough as 6 to 8 drops red gel food coloring *We used BelGioioso® Mascarpone Cheese.
directed, adding egg white to dough. 1⁄4 teaspoon kosher salt
4. Transfer dough to a large pastry 1⁄2 cup (113 grams) cold unsalted butter, ROASTED STRAWBERRIES
bag fitted with a 1⁄2-inch round piping cubed Makes about 12⁄3 cups
tip (Ateco #805). Place piping tip in
center of a drawn circle. Holding tip 1. In the work bowl of a food processor, 2 pounds (907 grams) fresh
perpendicularly ½ inch above parchment pulse flour, brown sugar, powdered strawberries, hulled and quartered
paper and stationary the entire time, strawberries, food coloring, and salt until 1⁄4 cup (50 grams) granulated sugar
apply even pressure until batter reaches combined. Add cold butter, and process 1⁄4 teaspoon kosher salt
edges of drawn circle. Stop applying until mixture starts to clump together,
pressure, and move tip in a quick circular about 30 seconds. Pulse until large 1. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).
motion as you lift away to help prevent a clumps form and mixture sticks together 2. In a 13x9-inch baking dish, stir together
point from forming on top. Repeat with when pinched, 5 to 6 pulses. all ingredients until well combined.
remaining batter until pan is full. Wet 2. Turn out dough onto a clean surface, 3. Bake until berries are fragrant, soft,
your finger with water, and press down and knead 2 to 3 times to bring together. and have released ample juices, 30 to
any points to create a smooth top, if Press into a disk. Place dough between 40 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes.
necessary. Slide template out from under 2 sheet of parchment paper, and roll to 4. Strain through a large fine-mesh sieve
piped batter, and place under parchment ⅛-inch thickness. Place on a baking sheet, over a medium bowl, reserving juices.
on other prepared pans; pipe remaining and freeze until firm, 10 to 15 minutes. Let strawberries cool completely, 15 to
batter. Freeze until set, about 15 minutes. 3. Using a 13⁄4-inch round cutter, cut 20 minutes; chop into 1⁄4-inch pieces, and
5. Top each piped choux puff with a frozen dough. Reroll scraps between parchment, return to sieve over bowl to collect extra
disk of Strawberry Craquelin Dough. and freeze for 10 minutes before cutting juices.

97 bake from scratch

STRAWBERRY-PRALINE brown, about 10 minutes more. Remove 3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
PARIS-BRESTS from pans, and let cool completely on with the paddle attachment, beat room
Makes about 18 wire racks. temperature butter and Praline Paste
7. Using a serrated knife, cut each cooled at medium speed until smooth, about
Named after a bicycle race route that runs Paris-Brest in half horizontally. 1 minute; scrape sides of bowl. With
from Paris to Brest, France, this dessert 8. In another small bowl, stir together mixer on medium speed, add cold pastry
can be made as one large, round choux strawberries and preserves. cream, about 1 cup at a time, beating
pastry filled with a nut cream and topped 9. Place Praline Crème Mousseline in until combined after each addition
with almonds. These individual Paris-Brests a large pastry bag fitted with a 3⁄4-inch and stopping to scrape sides of bowl.
(pronounced “pa-ree breast”) are filled French star piping tip (Ateco #869). Pipe Beat in remaining 1⁄4 teaspoon salt. Use
with pistachio and strawberries to celebrate mousseline in tall rosettes around bottom immediately, or refrigerate until ready
spring flavors. half of each Paris-Brest, and top with to use. If refrigerated, let stand at room
strawberry mixture. Cover with top half temperature, stirring occasionally, until
Choux Pastry Dough (recipe on page 96) of each Paris-Brest. Serve immediately, smooth and pipable, 15 to 20 minutes.
1⁄4 cup (31 grams) all-purpose flour or refrigerate until ready to serve. Best Best used same day.
1 large egg white (30 grams), room served same day.
temperature PRALINE PASTE
®
1 large egg (50 grams), room *We used Bonne Maman Strawberry Makes about 1¼ cups
temperature Preserves.
1⁄2 cup (57 grams) finely chopped raw 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar
pistachios PRALINE CRÈME MOUSSELINE 1⁄4 cup (60 grams) water, plus more for
1 pound (454 grams) roughly chopped Makes 7 cups brushing
fresh strawberries 11⁄2 cups (213 grams) raw pistachios
1⁄2 cup (160 grams) strawberry 3 cups (720 grams) whole milk
preserves* 11⁄4 cups (250 grams) granulated sugar, 1. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil;
Praline Crème Mousseline (recipe divided spray foil with cooking spray.
follows) 8 large egg yolks (149 grams) 2. In a medium saucepan, stir together
1⁄2 cup (64 grams) cornstarch sugar and ¼ cup (60 grams) water until
1. Position one oven rack on top shelf of 1⁄2 teaspoon kosher salt, divided mixture resembles wet sand. Bring
oven, and place a large sheet of foil on it. 1 tablespoon (13 grams) vanilla extract to a boil over medium heat, stirring
Position one oven rack in center of oven. 1⁄4 cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, occasionally just until sugar dissolves.
Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). softened (Do not stir after mixture starts to boil.)
2. On 4 sheets of parchment paper, using 1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, Cook until mixture is a light amber color,
a 3-inch round cutter as a guide, draw room temperature 8 to 10 minutes, occasionally brushing
5 circles each. Line 4 (18x13-inch) baking 1 cup (300 grams) Praline Paste down sides of pan with a pastry brush
sheets with parchment guides. (recipe follows) dipped in water. Remove from heat;
3. Prepare Choux Pastry Dough as quickly stir in pistachios. Pour onto
directed, adding flour and egg white to 1. In a large saucepan, whisk together milk prepared pan. Using a heatproof spatula,
dough. and 3⁄4 cup (150 grams) sugar. Heat over spread candied pistachios in a single layer.
4. Transfer dough to a large pastry bag medium heat until steaming. (Do not Let cool completely.
fitted with a 1⁄2-inch French star piping tip boil.) 3. Break candied pistachios into bite-size
(Ateco #865). Place tip on the line of a 2. In a large bowl, whisk together egg pieces.
drawn circle, and start by applying even yolks, cornstarch, 1⁄4 teaspoon salt, and 4. In the work bowl of a food processor,
pressure. Then, hold tip about 3⁄4 inch remaining 1⁄2 cup (100 grams) sugar. process candied pistachios until finely
above parchment, and slowly pipe around Slowly add warm milk mixture, whisking ground, 2 to 3 minutes; scrape bottom
drawn circle. Begin to lessen pressure constantly. Return mixture to pan, and sides of bowl, and process until a
on pastry bag as dough connects at end and cook over medium heat, whisking thick, dough-like paste forms, 2 to
of circle; stop applying pressure, letting constantly, until thickened and boiling, 4 minutes. Store in airtight container
it overlap slightly. Wet your finger with 4 to 5 minutes. Add vanilla, and whisk for up to 3 days.
water, and smooth down overlap. Repeat until well combined. Strain mixture
with remaining batter. through a fine-mesh sieve into a large
5. In a small bowl, beat egg. Using a pastry heatproof bowl. Add softened butter in
brush, brush egg onto piped dough; two additions, stirring until combined
sprinkle with pistachios. after each addition. Cover with a piece of
6. Bake on center rack for 15 minutes. plastic wrap, pressing wrap directly onto
Rotate pan; remove foil from top shelf, surface of pastry cream to prevent a skin
and place foil directly on top of Paris- from forming. Refrigerate for 4 hours or
Brests. Bake until puffed and golden up to overnight.
march | april 2024 100
origin of a classic

Delightfully small treats with a big history

BY CHRISTINA FLEISCH
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KYLE CARPENTER / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY AMANDA STABILE / FOOD STYLING BY AARON CONRAD / STYLING BY MAGGIE HILL
I
f you consider the start of the macaron’s history to Some say that Italian monasteries were the first to create
be the moment when a little sandwich made of two these sweet delicacies; others argue it was the French
almond flour meringue cookies with a ganache filling monasteries. The only agreement that can be made among
was created, you don’t have to look far back in time at all. historians is that in 1533, when Florentine noblewoman
However, the truth is that the original macaron was just Catherine de Medici married Henry II, future king of
one simple cookie, and it has a history going back more France, and brought her Italian chef with her, macarons
than a millennium. While it’s most famously known as were made popular. Sixteenth-century macarons were very
a French delicacy, the macaron is more global than one similar to what they are now: an almond meringue cookie
might expect. with a crisp exterior and soft, chewy interior. One important
distinction is that rather than two cookies joined by a filling,
The true, ancient origins of macarons are unclear. Like macarons were enjoyed as simply one cookie with only an
many desserts, macarons have evolved over centuries into almond flavor. The rainbow assortment of flavors and fillings
the small, colorful, bite-size sandwich cookies we know we see today did not come until much later.
them as today. It’s believed that in the ninth century,
around the year 830, Arab merchants from what is now
known as Tunisia in Africa brought a variety of nut-based
desserts and treats to Sicily. From these treats came a
few products and desserts that are still around today,
like marzipan and, eventually, macarons. The trading of
goods, food, and information among European regions was
increasing, which meant that as recipes and ingredients for
these nut-based creations spread, a competing history of
where macarons were truly created emerged.

march | april 2024 102

 Because these cookies were introduced to the French court top and there is only one flavor, which tastes of toasted
directly from Italian nobility rather than coming from the almonds and meringue. If you visit Nancy, you can taste
public as a common recipe, macarons were reserved for the original, unchanged recipe at the pâtisserie Maison des
the aristocracy and the elite. But not all recipes can be Soeurs Macarons or at any other pâtisserie in the region, as
kept secret and in the hands of the nobility, especially in they have become a local favorite.
France. During the French Revolution, two nuns seeking
asylum in Nancy, France, began to bake and sell their Parisian-style macarons, made available to the public
own macarons to make money. (Legend has it that the through skilled bakers and chefs, remained popular in
tradition of nuns baking macarons supposedly gave rise to their original form until 1862, when Louis-Ernest Ladurée
the cookies being referred to as “priests’ belly buttons” due opened a boulangerie in Madeleine, a Parisian neighborhood
to their shape.) Macarons were introduced to the public, for artisans. Tragically, a fire destroyed the original location,
and the love for them soared. The two nuns were dubbed forcing Ladurée to reopen a new location as a pâtisserie.
the “Soeurs Macarons,” or Macaron Sisters. This is where La Maison Ladurée went through more changes over the
the distinction is made between Parisian-style macarons course of a century as it became a famed café and pâtisserie
and anything else. The Macarons des Soeurs have a cracked whose ownership stayed in the family. It’s here that the

103 bake from scratch

 Visit [Link]
for more macaron recipes.

recipe for macarons became the colorful versions we know For the Italian method, first, almond flour, egg whites,
today. In 1930, a second cousin to Ladurée, Parisian pastry and confectioners’ sugar are combined to make a paste.
chef Pierre Desfontaines, made the bold choice to take Then a hot sugar syrup is whipped into egg whites, and the
two macarons and fill them, creating a sandwich. Another almond flour paste is combined with the whipped egg white
Parisian pastry chef, Claude Gerbet, also claimed to have mixture. The Italian method is typically sturdier, which
created the delicious macaron, though most historians give is why we have used it to create our Chocolate Hazelnut
credit to Desfontaines. From there, the sky was the limit as Macarons. Creating assorted flavors of macarons is not
far as macaron shell flavors and fillings. difficult as long as the ingredient you use as a flavoring is
the same texture and consistency as the other ingredients
The historical tug of war between France and Italy in the recipe that you are adding the flavoring to (for
continues even when it comes to how to make macarons. example, cocoa powder added to almond flour or almond
The methods are nearly identical; the difference is how one extract added to egg whites); this helps prevent lumps from
chooses to make the meringue. There is no right or wrong forming in the macaron shell.
as to which method is better; it is only the preference of
the baker. The French method involves first whisking the In addition to their long history, the beauty of these little
egg whites until they’ve built volume and then granulated delights is the versatility in flavor combinations from shell
sugar is gradually whisked in until stiff peaks form. After to filling.
that, almond flour and confectioners’ sugar are folded in.
105 bake from scratch
CHOCOLATE HAZELNUT
MACARONS 4. Meanwhile, in the bowl of a stand mixer 30 to 45 minutes. (Batter should be
Makes about 36 macarons fitted with the whisk attachment, beat matte, feel dry to the touch, and should
cream of tartar and remaining 2 egg whites not stick to your finger.)
Although the flavors of macarons are (60 grams) at low speed until foamy. 8. Preheat oven to 300°F (150°C).
seemingly endless, you can never go wrong Increase mixer speed to medium-high, and 9. Bake until shells are firm but have
with chocolate and hazelnut. beat until medium-stiff peaks form. (Egg a slight wobble to the touch, 13 to
whites and sugar syrup should be prepared 15 minutes. Let cool completely on pans
1½ cups (144 grams) superfine blanched so they are ready at the same time.) on wire racks.
almond flour 5. With mixer on high speed, add sugar 10. Spoon Hazelnut-Chocolate Ganache
1¼ cups (150 grams) confectioners’ sugar syrup to whipped egg white mixture, into a pastry bag fitted with a medium
1 tablespoon (5 grams) Dutch process carefully pouring straight into mixture, round piping tip (Ateco #804.) Pipe
cocoa powder avoiding side of bowl and whisk. Beat until ganache onto flat side of half of macaron
4 large egg whites (120 grams), room mixture is cooled and stiff peaks form, shells. Lightly press remaining macaron
temperature and divided about 4 minutes. shells, flat side down, on top of ganache.
¾ cup (150 grams) granulated sugar 6. Add one-fourth of meringue (about Refrigerate in an airtight container for up
¼ cup (60 grams) water ½ cup or 60 grams) to flour mixture; stir to 3 days.
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar vigorously until combined. Add remaining
Finely chopped hazelnuts, for sprinkling meringue, and carefully fold until mixture HAZELNUT-CHOCOLATE GANACHE
Hazelnut-Chocolate Ganache (recipe is ribbon-consistency. (Mixture should Makes about 1 cup
follows) be thick and slowly but freely fall off the
spatula in a “V” shape; when you drag the ½ cup (132 grams) hazelnut-chocolate
1. Line 3 rimmed baking sheets with spatula through the batter, it should move spread*
silicone macaron baking mats. like lava and slowly come back together.) 5 tablespoons (75 grams) heavy
2. In the work bowl of a food processor, 7. Transfer batter to a pastry bag fitted whipping cream
pulse flour, confectioners’ sugar, and with a medium round piping tip (Ateco 2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted
cocoa until finely ground and fully #804). Holding piping bag with opening butter
combined. Sift mixture through a of tip perpendicular to a prepared pan, ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
large fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl, pipe batter within circles on baking mats,
discarding any solids. Add 2 egg whites applying pressure and leaving tip stationary 1. In a medium microwave-safe bowl,
(60 grams); fold until combined. Cover until batter just reaches edge of circle. heat all ingredients on high in 30-second
with plastic wrap to prevent drying out. Move and lift piping tip in a quick circular intervals, stirring between each, until
3. In a small saucepan, stir together motion as you finish piping each macaron butter is melted and mixture is smooth
granulated sugar and ¼ cup (60 shell to prevent a point from forming on and well combined. Cover and let cool
grams) water. Cook over high heat, top. Vigorously slam pans on counter 5 to completely. Use immediately.
without stirring, until an instant-read 7 times to release air bubbles. Sprinkle with
thermometer registers 240°F (116°C) to hazelnuts. Let stand at room temperature *We used Bonne Maman® Hazelnut
245°F (118°C). until a skin forms on top of macaron shells, Chocolate Spread.
march | april 2024 106
gold standard

BE
NCHM

YO U R C H I L D H O O D
A
R

RK
OU
CL ASSIC
BAKE
DREAM DESSERT
A
V
ER

F
SION O

Made Better
Do you have fond memories of perusing the whimsically decorated cookies
on display in your local mall’s food court? Our homemade version has the
perfect soft and chewy texture throughout, and its sweet swirls of buttercream
decorating the edges will magically make you feel like a kid again at ࢅrst bite.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KYLE CARPENTER / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY AMANDA STABILE / FOOD STYLING BY AARON CONRAD / STYLING BY MAGGIE HILL

CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE ¼ teaspoon (1.25 grams) baking powder combined and desired color is reached.
CAKE ½ cup (86 grams) coarsely chopped Spoon green buttercream into a pastry
Makes 1 (12-inch) cookie candy-coated chocolate eggs bag fitted with a small round piping tip
¼ cup (43 grams) coarsely chopped (Ateco #803). Pipe a small border within
This stir-together cookie cake has the crave- bittersweet chocolate white border. Garnish with chocolate
worthy chewiness you recall from childhood, Vanilla Buttercream (recipe follows) eggs, if desired. Store in an airtight
thanks to the use of melted butter and an Green gel food coloring container for up to 3 days.

* pro tip
additional egg yolk in the dough. Its golden Garnish: whole and crushed candy-
edges are adorned with a classic American coated chocolate eggs
buttercream and pastel candy chocolate You can also bake the cookie in a
eggs. Substitute an equal amount of 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray
14½x9½-inch rimmed baking sheet
chocolate chips for candy eggs if you prefer. a 12-inch round cake pan with baking until set and edges are lightly browned,
spray with flour. about 20 minutes.
¾ cup (170 grams) unsalted butter, 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together
melted melted butter, sugars, egg, egg yolk, and
¾ cup (165 grams) firmly packed light vanilla until combined. VANILLA BUTTERCREAM
brown sugar 3. In another medium bowl, whisk Makes about 2½ cups
½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar together flour, salt, baking soda, and
1 large egg (50 grams), room baking powder. Fold flour mixture into 1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter,
temperature butter mixture until almost completely softened
1 large egg yolk (19 grams), room combined. Fold in chopped chocolate ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
temperature eggs and bittersweet chocolate until 2½ cups (300 grams) confectioners’
1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla extract combined and no dry streaks remain. sugar
2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour Press dough into an even layer in 1 tablespoon (15 grams) heavy
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt prepared pan. whipping cream
½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking soda 4. Bake until surface is dry and edges 2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract
are lightly browned, about 22 minutes.
Let cool completely in pan on a wire 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
rack. Remove from pan, and transfer with the paddle attachment, beat butter
to a serving platter. and salt at medium speed until smooth
5. Spoon 1½ cups (307 grams) Vanilla and creamy. With mixer on low speed,
Buttercream into a pastry bag fitted with gradually add confectioners’ sugar,
a small open star piping tip (Ateco #824). beating until combined. Beat in cream
Pipe a border of buttercream around and vanilla. Slowly increase mixer speed
edge of cooled cookie. Add food coloring to high, and beat until pale and fluffy, 1 to
to remaining buttercream, and stir until 2 minutes. Use immediately.
cover re
cipe

march | april 2024 108

 fast-fix baking

sprin g ’ s s i m p l e s t

er
Relish in the season’s long
er
days and warmer weath
with these ࢆuࢂy cakes

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHANIE WELBOURNE STEELE

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BYOLA AGBODZA
FOOD STYLING BY KATIE MOON DICKERSON
STYLING BY MAGGIE HILL

109 bake from scratch

BUTTERMILK-ORANGE 2. In a large bowl, whisk together buttermilk,
PUDDING CAKES ¼ cup (50 grams) sugar, egg yolks, melted
Makes 4 cakes butter, vanilla bean paste, and orange zest
until well combined. Add flour and salt;
These airy, soufflé-like cakes strike a great whisk together until smooth.
flavor balance of sweet vanilla and tangy 3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted
citrus. with the whisk attachment, beat egg
whites at medium-high speed until
1 cup (240 grams) whole buttermilk, frothy. Gradually add remaining
room temperature ¼ cup (50 grams) sugar, beating
½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar, until shiny, stiff peaks form. Gently
divided fold egg white mixture into batter
2 large eggs (100 grams), separated in three additions until mixture is
and room temperature well combined and no white streaks
2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted remain. Gently spoon about ¾ cup
butter, melted (115 grams) batter into each
2 teaspoons (12 grams) vanilla bean prepared baking dish. Place dishes
paste in a large baking pan; carefully fill
1 teaspoon (1 gram) orange zest large pan with hot water until it comes
3 tablespoons (24 grams) all-purpose halfway up sides of baking dishes.
flour 4. Bake until puffed, tops are lightly
¼ teaspoon kosher salt browned, and cakes spring back when
lightly touched in center, about 30 minutes.
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray Carefully remove pan from oven; let dishes
4 (1-cup) baking dishes with baking spray stand in water in pan for 5 minutes. Serve
with flour. warm.
 dough-cabulary

Our most commonly used terms for yeast dough OUR PANTRY
PARTNERS
ARE PROUDLY
STOCKED IN THE
BAKE FROM SCRATCH
TEST KITCHEN

WINDOWPANE TEST
Kneading dough to develop the gluten structure is an essential part of the
majority of yeasted dough recipes. But how do you know when you’ve
kneaded enough? Enter the windowpane test: Pinch or cut—but don’t tear, TEST KITCHEN
because this damages the gluten strands—a small, walnut-size piece of dough.
Then gently and slowly pull and rotate the dough out from its center. If the
PANTRY PARTNER
dough is properly kneaded, you will be able to stretch it—without tearing—
until it’s thin and translucent. If it tears or breaks during the stretch, give your
These brands are trusted and
dough another minute of work and then test again. If the dough is too hard to
used by our test kitchen.
stretch, it’s been overmixed.

Heilala Vanilla is a premium

ingredient essential to every
baking pantry.

FINGER DENT TEST

After your dough has rested the amount of time according to your recipe,
lightly flour your fingertip or knuckle, and gently press about ½ inch into the
surface. If your dough has properly proofed, you should be able to watch the
dough spring back slightly but still show an indentation. Additionally, the
dough has roughly doubled in size from its original amount. In underproofed
dough, your finger dent will immediately spring back; the gluten is strong, but
the carbon dioxide bubbles haven’t expanded enough to allow the dough to
rise to its full potential. In overproofed dough, the finger dent never fills back
in; the carbon dioxide bubbles have stretched the gluten past its limits.

111 bake from scratch

Get every 2023 magazine
recipe in our latest book
ARTISAN RECIPES
FOR THE HOME BAKER
400-page hardcover edition
More than 300 recipes
Gorgeous photography
Step-by-step tutorials
Cakes, breads, pies &
tarts, pastries, cookies
& bars, and more!

SHOP our entire Bake

from Scratch collection at
[Link]/shop.

3 EASY WAYS [Link]/BFS8

TOP
TO REOORDER
PREORDER 800-361-8059
80
00 36
61 805
59 83PBF24
83PB 2
 bake it like brian

Not-So-Petite Petit Four

PETIT FOUR LOAF CAKE and firmly tap pan on a kitchen towel-lined STRAWBERRY FONDANT GLAZE
Makes 1 (9x5-inch) cake counter twice to release air bubbles. Makes 2 cups
3. Bake until edges are lightly browned
Sometimes you crave something but want and a wooden pick comes out clean, about 3⅓ cups (400 grams) confectioners’ sugar
to take the easy way out—that was the case 1½ hours. Let cool in pan for 15 minutes. ¼ cup (85 grams) light corn syrup
here. I took the traditional petit four recipe Using excess parchment as handles, 3 tablespoons (45 grams) water
and made a single loaf that's filled and glazed remove from pan, and let cool completely 1½ tablespoons (30 grams) strawberry
just like the originals but without the longer on a wire rack. preserves, strained
process to assemble and decorate. This laid- 4. Measuring 1¼ to 1½ inches up from ½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract
back version is great to slice and enjoy with a bottom of cake, cut cooled cake in half ⅔ cup (113 grams) white chocolate chips
cup of coffee of tea. horizontally. Spread preserves onto Pink liquid food coloring
bottom half of cake; add top half of cake.
Petit Fours batter (recipe on page 51) 5. Line a rimmed baking sheet with 1. In the top of a double boiler, whisk
¼ cup (80 grams) strawberry preserves* plastic wrap; place a wire rack on top. together confectioners’ sugar, corn
Strawberry Fondant Glaze (recipe follows) Place assembled cake on wire rack. Pour syrup, 3 tablespoons (45 grams) water,
Strawberry Fondant Glaze all over top preserves, and vanilla until smooth.
1. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Spray of cake, letting it run down sides to fully Add white chocolate chips; cook over
a 9x5-inch loaf pan with baking spray with cover cake. Let stand until glaze is set, simmering water, stirring frequently,
flour. Line pan with parchment paper, 10 to 15 minutes. Using a large spatula or until chocolate is melted. Tint with food
letting excess extend over sides of pan. cake lifter, carefully transfer to a serving coloring as desired. Transfer glaze to a
2. Prepare Petit Fours recipe through platter. Refrigerate in an airtight container large liquid-measuring cup; let cool until
step 3. Spread batter into prepared pan, for up to 3 days. an instant-read thermometer registers
smoothing with an offset spatula. Run a thin 113°F (45°C) to 116°F (46°C). Use
knife or small offset spatula through batter, *I used Bonne Maman® Strawberry Preserves. immediately.

* pro tip
If you’re concerned
about moving the glazed
cake off the wire rack,
cut a cake board
to the size of the
cake and place the
assembled cake on
top before glazing.

113 bake from scratch

 Learn more from the comfort of your
own home in Baking School.
Purchase your ticket at [Link]

-DEMAND -DEMAND -DEMAND -DEMAND

ON ON ON ON
•

•
•

•
BAKING SCHOOL BAKING SCHOOL BAKING SCHOOL BAKING SCHOOL
Cast-Iron Skillet Baking Baking School In-Depth: Mastering Pasta Dough French Baking Month:
WITH BRIAN HART HOFFMAN Limoncello Cake with
AND GESINE BULLOCK-PRADO
Italian Meringue Buttercream
WITH BRIAN HART HOFFMAN Brioche
WITH BRIAN HART HOFFMAN
WITH BRIAN HART HOFFMAN

MISSED A BAKING SCHOOL CLASS?

View past past classes at [Link]/ondemand