TROUSER
FITTING
GUIDE
SAY GOODBYE TO TERRIBLE
FITTING TROUSERS
PROJECT-PATTERNS.CO.UK
HOW THIS
GUIDE WILL
HELP YOU
This guide is focusing specifically on how to
fit a trouser rise. There are so many
amendments that we can do to trousers
(think circumference, balance, length etc) but
the trickiest part for most people is getting
that pesky rise shape correct!
So I've created this handy guide for you to
have on hand for quick referencing on how
to assess, recognise and correct rise-related
fitting issues.
T r o u ser Fitting G u i d e - P a g e 1
CHECKING &
TRUEING
CHECKING & TRUEING IS AN IMPORTANT PART OF DRAFTING
PATTERNS, AND DEFINITELY NOT A STEP TO BE SKIPPED!
WHEN SHOULD I
CHECK AND TRUE? WHAT DO I NEED TO
CHECK?
YOU SHOULD GO THROUGH THIS YOU NEED TO CHECK THAT YOUR
PROCESS BEFORE YOU CUT SEAMS ARE SMOOTH AND WITHOUT
ANYTHING OUT. THAT MEANS THAT ANY CORNERS OR STRANGE DIPS,
THERE ARE TWO IMPORTANT POINTS AND THAT YOUR PATTERN WILL
IN THE PROCESS WHEN YOU SHOULD PHYSICALLY STITCH TOGETHER.
DO THIS: THAT MEANS CHECKING THAT YOUR
SIDE SEAMS AND IN SEAMS ARE THE
1. AFTER TRACING YOUR INITIAL SAME LENGTHS!
DRAFT
2. AFTER DOING ANY FITTING YOU ALSO NEED TO CHECK THE RUN
AMENDMENTS. OF YOUR PIECES WHEN THEY STITCH
TOGETHER. THAT MEANS CHECKING:
THE SHAPE OF THE WAIST WITH THE SIDE SEAMS TOGETHER AND THE
DARTS CLOSED
THE SHAPE OF THE RISE WITH THE IN SEAMS TOGETHER
THE SHAPE OF THE HEM WITH THE SIDE SEAMS AND IN SEAMS TOGETHER.
T r o u ser Fitting G u i d e - P a g e 2
FITTING TIPS & TRICKS
SMALL ADJUSTMENTS GO A LONG WAY
IT'S OFTEN TEMPTING TO REMOVE OR SLASH IN A
LOT OF VOLUME, BUT WITH TROUSERS A SIMPLE
CENTIMETRE CAN MAKE ALL THE DIFFERENCE!
DON'T BE AFRAID OF CUTTING, PINNING &
SEWING YOUR TOILE
TRY TESTING YOUR ADJUSTMENT ON YOUR TOILE BY
STITCHING OR PINNING BEFORE ALTERING YOUR
PATTERN.
DON'T TWIST AROUND WHEN LOOKING AT
THE BACK
USE YOUR CAMERA AND SELF TIMER TO TAKE
ACCURATE PICTURES OF THE BACK, WITHOUT
TWISTING.
USE YOUR TRACING WHEEL TO TRANSFER
AMENDED LINES.
ONCE YOU'VE TESTED A NEW SEAM SHAPE ON
YOUR TOILE, YOU CAN EASILY TRANSFER THIS TO
YOUR PATTERN BY USING YOUR TRACING WHEEL.
ALWAYS WORK WITH YOUR STITCH LINE
WHEN AMENDING
THE STITCH LINE IS THE LINE THAT WE LOVE IN
PATTERN CUTTING. USE THIS LINE FOR MEASURING,
SLASHING IN AND REDRAWING. THEN DEAL WITH THE
SEAM ALLOWANCE AFTER YOU'VE DONE YOUR
AMENDMENT.
T r o u ser Fitting G u i d e - P a g e 3
UNDERSTANDING A
TROUSER RISE
IF WE BREAK TROUSERS DOWN INTO SIMPLE SHAPES,
THEY'RE MADE UP OF THREE TUBES:
THE RIGHT LEG
THE LEFT LEG
THE BODY
THE MAIN JOB OF THE RISE IS TO JOIN ALL 3 TUBE SHAPES
TOGETHER WHILE HUGGING THE BODY.
TO FIT CORRECTLY THE RISE HAS THREE
MAJOR REQUIREMENTS:
IT NEEDS TO HAVE IT NEEDS TO HAVE THE SHAPE OF THE
ENOUGH HEIGHT ENOUGH WIDTH CURVE NEEDS TO
TO REACH FROM THROUGH THE MIRROR YOUR
THE CROTCH UP TO LOWER PORTION OF BODY.
THE WAIST. (PLUS THE RISE TO
ENOUGH BODY COMFORTABLY
EASE SO THAT WE REACH FROM OUR
CAN SIT DOWN) CB TO OUR CF,
THROUGH OUR
LEGS.
T r o u ser Fitting G u i d e - P a g e 4
COMMON
FITTING
ISSUES &
HOW TO FIX
THEM
T r o u ser Fitting G u i d e - P a g e 5
PROBLEM: NOT ENOUGH FABRIC
THROUGH THE RISE WIDTH
FRONT BACK
BACK
FRONT
HOW TO RECOGNISE THIS ISSUE
We can see the tightness around the thigh and between the CF and
CB, which is pulling the fabric from the upper section of the rise down
and the fabric from the legs up towards the crotch.
HOW TO CORRECT THIS ISSUE
INCREASING RISE WIDTH
To correct this problem,
simply add extra width to
the rise at the crotch point.
I'd suggest adding it equally
at the front and back to
start and then tweak as
needed.
T r o u ser Fitting G u i d e - P a g e 6
PROBLEM: TOO MUCH FABRIC
THROUGH THE RISE WIDTH
FRONT BACK
BACK
FRONT
HOW TO RECOGNISE THIS ISSUE
We can see the excess fabric creating a bulge around the thigh, the
front crotch and back crotch. It creates a bit of a baggy pouch, which
no one really wants!
HOW TO CORRECT THIS ISSUE
REDUCING RISE WIDTH
To correct this problem,
simply remove width from
the rise at the crotch point.
I'd suggest removing it
equally at the front and
back to start and then
tweak as needed.
T r o u ser Fitting G u i d e - P a g e 7
PROBLEM: NOT ENOUGH HEIGHT
AND SHAPING IN THE RISE
FRONT BACK
BACK
FRONT
HOW TO RECOGNISE THIS ISSUE
The hip circumference is measuring correctly, but we have a lot of
tightness around the fullest part of the bum and/or tummy. This
means we don't have enough fabric and shaping to cover and shape to
this area correctly. You will also find that rise feels tight and it's
uncomfortable to sit down.
HOW TO CORRECT THIS ISSUE
INCREASING THE RISE HEIGHT
(Full Seat/Tummy Adjustment)
To correct this problem, slash
into your pattern at the CF/CB,
leaving a hinge at the side
seam.
Rotate the rise open and add
the required amount.
(Don't forget to true your side
seam!)
T r o u ser Fitting G u i d e - P a g e 8
PROBLEM: TOO MUCH HEIGHT
AND SHAPING IN THE RISE
FRONT BACK
BACK
FRONT
HOW TO RECOGNISE THIS ISSUE
The hip circumference is measuring correctly, but we have a lot of
excess fabric around the lowest part of the bum and/or tummy.
Excess fabric is dropping down (hello gravity) and creating pools of
volume around the crotch, thigh and knee area too.
HOW TO CORRECT THIS ISSUE
DECREASING THE RISE HEIGHT
(Flat Seat/Tummy Adjustment)
To correct this problem,
slash into your pattern at
the CF/CB, leaving a hinge
at the side seam.
Rotate the rise closed and
remove the required
amount.
(Don't forget to true your
side seam and rise!)
T r o u ser Fitting G u i d e - P a g e 9
PROBLEM: CROTCH POINT IS TOO
HIGH
FRONT BACK
BACK
FRONT
HOW TO RECOGNISE THIS ISSUE
When the crotch point is too high, the fabric has nowhere to go. It will
sit up against the body and create some pooling between the legs.
The little wiggle shape that we see here is a tell tale sign of this
problem!
HOW TO CORRECT THIS ISSUE
LOWERING THE CROTCH POINT
To correct this problem,
simply pin the excess fabric
that is creating the pooling
and lower the crotch point
by this amount.
T r o u ser Fitting G u i d e - P a g e 1 0
PROBLEM: RISE CURVE IS TOO
SHALLOW
FRONT BACK
BACK
FRONT
HOW TO RECOGNISE THIS ISSUE
When the rise curve is too shallow, you will find that the fabric has
nowhere to go. It sits against the body and creates excess fabric that
pools around and drops below the front/back crotch and thigh area.
HOW TO CORRECT THIS ISSUE
"SCOOPING" THE CURVE SHAPE
To correct this problem, pin
the excess fabric away and
scoop out the curve by this
amount.
(I find it best to pin and
redraw my curve on the
toile and transfer this exact
line to my pattern using a
tracing wheel)
T r o u ser Fitting G u i d e - P a g e 1 1
PROBLEM: RISE CURVE IS TOO
DEEP
FRONT BACK
BACK
FRONT
HOW TO RECOGNISE THIS ISSUE
When the rise curve is too deep, you will find that there is not enough
fabric to sit comfortably around the body. The trousers will look tight
at the crotch and hip area, which creates drag lines as above. The
fabric will also sit away from the body and feel like it's straining.
HOW TO CORRECT THIS ISSUE
FILLING IN THE CURVE SHAPE
To correct this problem,
unpick the area of the rise
that is showing strain. Allow
the fabric to relax and
measure how much you
need to add in.
(I find it best to pin, sew and
redraw my curve on the
toile and transfer this exact
line to my pattern using a
tracing wheel)
T r o u ser Fitting G u i d e - P a g e 1 2
