OILY AND DRY SKIN Points to be covered in this topic OILY AND DRY SKIN SKIN MOISTURISATION DERMATITIS DANDRUFF HAIR LOSS BLEMISHES ACNE PRICKLY HEAT BODY ODOR» OILY SKIN * Oily skin is not an uncommon dermatological } concern. * Your skin's sebaceous glands produce a certain amount of natural oils to stay healthy. * However, when it produces excess sebum (oil), it appears shiny and greasy. * This is the first symptom to determine an oily skin Y Genetics v Age ¥ Enlarged pores Y Using the wrong skin care products Y Overdoing your skin care routine Y Skipping your moisturizer | ¥ Wash Your Face Regularly * Washing your face at least twice a day should be part of your skincare routine. * This cleans clogged pores, and removes dirt and bacteria from your skin, while also preventing breakouts. v Drink Lot of Water = * Your body should stay hydrated at all times. Ww * If it lacks water, the body may produce too much oil to keep your skin hydrated. * At least 2-3 liters of water a day is ideal to keep your skin healthy.v Avoid Direct Sun Exposure * Direct exposure to the sun dehydrates your body and skin. * This may cause your body to overproduce oil. Wear sunscreen before you step out. v Follow a Skincare Routine * It is always healthy to follow a basic skincare regimen to allow your skin to breathe. Don't compromise on your products. ~ DRYSKIN * Dry skin is an uncomfortable condition marked by scaling, itching, and cracking. * It can occur fora variety of reasons. * You might have naturally dry skin. * But even if your skin tends to be oily, you can develop dry skin from time to time. Y Contact dermatitis * Contact dermatitis develops when your skin reacts to something it touches, causing localized inflammation. * Irritant contact dermatitis can occur when your skin's exposed to an irritating chemical agent, such as bleach. v Seborrheic dermatitis * Seborrheic dermatitis occurs when your skin produces too much oil. * It results in a red and scaly rash, usually on your scalp. * This type of dermatitis is common in infants.Atopic dermatitis * Atopic dermatitis is also known as eczema. * It's a chronic skin condition that causes dry scaly patches to appear on your skin. * It's common among young children. CAUSES OF DRY SKIN Medications Older age Vitamin deficiency » tah) Diabetes, thyroid disease, or kidney disease Chemotherapy Anorexia Skin barrier dysfunction » SYMPTOMS ves Affected skin appears dull, peeled. Itchy and painful skin. Redness, itchiness and deep cracks that may bleed. Gray ashy skin. Fine lines or cracks. Skin that feels and looks rough. “+ PREVENT DRY SKIN Avoid using hot water to bathe or shower Shower every other day instead of every day Keep your shower time to less than 10 minutes "e 4 Use a moisturizing soap when you bathe or shower Apply moisturizer immediately after bathing or showering Pat, rather than rub, wet skin dry with a soft towel * Avoid itching or scrubbing dry skin patches Use a humidifier in your home Drink plenty of water | Change your skin care routine as directed by your doctorMoisturizers are complex mixtures of chemical agents often occlusive help hold water in the skin after application, humectants attract moisture and emollients help smooth the skin. They increase the skin's hydration (water content) by reducing evaporation. * Naturally occurring skin lipids and sterols, as well as artificial or natural oils, humectants, emollients, lubricants, etc. * May be part of the composition of commercial skin moisturizers. * They usually are available as commercial products for cosmetic and therapeutic uses. » ANIDEAL MOISTURIZER SHOULD * Reduce and prevent further TEWL(Trans Epidermal water loss). * Restore lipid barrier, ie, duplicating and enhancing the skin's moisturizing retention mechanisms. * Hypo-allergenic, non-sensitizing, fragrance free. + Absorbed immediately, providing immediate hydration. Cosmetically acceptable. * ROLE OF MOISTURIZERS v Moisturizing action * This is the most vital action by which they increase the water content of the SC. + Hydration smoothens the skin surface by flattening the "valleys" between the skin contour ridges. v Anti-inflammatory action * Many moisturizers inhibit the production of pro- inflammatory prostanoids by blocking cyclooxygenase activity thus have a soothing effect on inflamed regions.Y Antimitotic action * Moisturizers containing mineral oils have low-grade anti-mitotic action on the epidermis and thus are useful in inflammatory dermatitis like psoriasis, where there is increased epidermal | ye } Antipruritic action * This reducing the itching. Further more, cooling effect evaporation of water from the skin surface after using water based moisturizers has antipruritic effect. Protective action * These days sunscreens with variable sun protection factor are incorporated in the moisturizers providing additional sun protection. Y Miscellaneous actions * Quality of life improvement; Having a smooth and hydrated skin plays a good role in our sociallife and psychological satisfaction. * Antimicrobial action: Act against skin surface microbes. Wound healing: Hyaluronic acid is known to play a role. MECHANISM OF ACTION OF MOISTURIZER + Increasing water diffusion from the living cells of epidermis into the horny lay through the barrier. This can achieved by chemically disrupting the epidermal barrier in the lowermost horny layer. By adding water directly from outside, or by strengthening of lipid | framework in the stratum corneum to maintaining the hydration level | of skin. By occluding the surface to prevent evaporation of water and increases the water holding capacity of stratum corneum which gives plasticity to the skin.> EXAMPLES Hydrocarbon oils and waxes e.g. Mineral oil, petroleum, paraffin | microcrystalline wax. Silicone oils e.g. water and alcohol soluble silicone glycol copolymers. Triglyceride esters e.g. vegetable & animal oils and fats. Fatty acids e.g. cetyl alcohols. Lanolin and derivatives e.g. lanolin, lanolin oil, lanolin wax, lanolin alcohol, lanolin fatty acids Sterols e.g. Cholesterol, cholesterol fatty acids esters. | COMEDOGENIC Comedones are small flesh-colored acne papules. ~e They usually develop on the forehead and chin. ‘ae Blackheads and whiteheads are the most common forms of comedonal acne. Blackheads have "open" comedones, while whiteheads have "closed" ones. Some comedones may be invisible to the eye (microcomedones). OPEN COMEDON CLOSED COMEDON» TYPES OF COMEDOGENIC “> BLACKHEADS * Blackheads are open-faced. * When the melanin pigment (found in the sebum produced by our oil glands) makes contact with the air at the top of an open comedone, it oxidizes and turns dark. This is why blackheads have a dark appearance. * Whiteheads, on the other hand, have closed surfaces. * They look like small white or flesh- colored dots. ORS FOR COMEDONAL AC) N * High dairy consumption * Diet that consists ofa lot of fats and sugars * Overhydrated skin, usually from using the wrong moisturizer high humidity laser therapy or chemical peels * Follicle injury from "picking" skin or popping comedones ey cy Cut) y (fj CUTTSTopical treatments are applied directly onto the face to control excess | sebum and unclog existing comedones. Common options include: azelaic acid, benzoyl-peroxide, glycolic | acid, salicylic acid, retinoids and sulfur. v MEDICATIONS * They may prescribe : antibiotics , oral contraceptives, isotretinoin and spironolactone, anti-androgen medication that’s sometimes used | along with oral contraceptive in women to control sebum production. | DERMATITIS The inflammation of the skin characterized by erythema and pain or pruritis is called as dermatitis. In the word "dermatitis," "derm" means "skin" and "itis" means "inflammation." The word as a whole means “inflammation of the skin. The rashes range from mild to severe and can cause a variety of problems, depending on their cause. TITIS It is mainly divided into 4 types * Contact dermatitis (dandruff) * Atopic dermatitis (eczema) * Seborrheic dermatitis * Exfoliative dermatitis“ CONTACT DERMATITIS * Itis the inflammatory reaction of the skin because of exposure to physical, chemical or biological agents. * Red, irritated skin, thick scaly region that's caused by a reaction to substances that is touched. * The main causes of contact dermatitis includes acids, alkalies, soap, detergents, cosmetics, iodine, petroleum products, nail polish, lubricating oils etc. * Frequent contact with water and extreme of heat and cold can also predisposed to contact dermatitis. “ ATOPIC DERMATITIS (ECZEMA) * Eczema is sometimes called atopic dermatitis, which is the most common form. * "Atopic" refers to an allergy. People with eczema often have allergies or asthma along with itchy, red, or hyper pigmented skin. Seborrheic dermatitis causes no serious harm to the body, including the hair. * It appears as red, dry, flaky, itchy skin on the scalp and other parts of the body and is common but not contagious. * Its presence doesn't mean the skin is unclean or infected. Medications manage the symptoms. It is a severe inflammation of the entire skin surface due to a reaction to certain medicines, a pre-existing skin condition, and sometimes cancer. * It is characterized by redness and scaling of the skin that begins in patches and spreads. * The skin begins to slough off.[DANDRUFF] * Dandruff is a harmless, chronic condition that occurs when the scalp becomes dry or greasy and produces white flakes of dead skin that appear in the hair or on the shoulders. Although it is harmless, dandruff can be embarrassing for those who have it. * Flakes appearing on your scalp, eyebrows, hair, mustache, beard, or shoulders + Itching in the scalp * The appearance of a scaly crusty scalp in babies, known as cradle cap. | I + There are a variety of reasons that you might end up with dandruff. Some of the most common causes of dandruff include: v Irritated and oily skin Not shampooing often enough The presence of a yeast-like fungus called malassezia that likes to feed on scalp oils in most adults Dryness of the scalp Contact dermatitis (itchy skin or rash) caused by touching or being around certain hair productstemporary or permanent. It can be the result of heredity, hormonal changes, medical conditions or a normal part of aging. * Anyone can lose hair on their head, but it's more common in men. Baldness typically refers to excessive hair loss from your scalp. Hereditary hair loss with age is the most common cause of baldness. » SYMPTOMS V Gradual thinnii fhead * This is the most common type of hair loss, affecting people as they age. * In men, hair often begins to recede at the hairline on the forehead. Y Circular or patchy bald spots * Some people lose hair in circular or patchy bald spots on the scalp, beard or eyebrows. * Your skin may become itchy or painful before the hair falls out. V Suddeni ing of hai * A physical or emotional shock can cause hair to loosen. * Handfuls of hair may come out when combing or washing your hair or even after gentle tugging.¥ Eull-body hair loss * Some conditions and medical treatments, such as chemotherapy for cancer, can result in the loss of hair all over your body. * The hair usually grows back. Patches of scaling that spread over the scalp * Thisis a sign of ringworm. * It may be accompanied by broken hair, redness, swelling and, at times, oozing. * The most common cause of hair loss is a hereditary condition that happens with aging. * This condition is called androgenic alopecia, male-pattern baldness and female-pattern baldness. * A variety of conditions can cause permanent or temporary hair loss, including hormonal changes due to pregnancy, childbirth, menopause and thyroid problems. MEDICATIONS AND SUPPLEMENTS + Hair loss can be a side effect of certain drugs, such as those used for cancer, arthritis, depression, heart problems, gout and high blood pressure. RADIATION THERAPY TO THE HEAD * The hair may not grow back the same as it was before. AVERY STRESSFUL EVENT * Many people experience a general thinning of hair several months after a physical or emotional shock. * This type of hair loss is temporary.> HAIRSTYLES AND TREATMENTS + Excessive hairstyling or hairstyles that pull your hair tight, such as pigtails or cornrows, can cause a type of hair loss called traction alopecia. * Hot-oil hair treatments and permanents also can cause hair to fall out. If scarring occurs, hair loss could be permanent. | Blemish is the term for any mark on the skin. | © There are many different types of blemish. * Most blemishes are harmless, but some people may wish to treat them | for cosmetic reasons. * Certain blemishes may indicate an underlying condition, such as skin cancer, which requires prompt medical treatment. 7 TYPES OF BLEMISHES * Acne is a skin condition that occurs as a result of the skin producing too much oil. Blackheads are small, dark spots on the surface of the skin. * They resemble trapped dirt but actually consist of oil that has become stuck inside the pore. * When this oil reacts with air, it becomes black. “> WHITEHEADS * Whiteheads are small, round blemishes that are white or skin- colored. | | * They develop as a result of oil and dead skin cells blocking the pores.* PAPULES * Papules are small, hard, red bumps on the skin. * These develop when excess oil, bacteria, and dead skin cells travel deeper into the skin, causing inflammation. * When lots of papules cluster together, this can give the skin a rough, sandpaper-like texture. * Pustules are raised, red spots that contain yellow or white pus. * They occur when oil, bacteria, and dead skin cells collect under the skin, causing infection. CAUSES OF BLEMISHES VIRUSES * Some blemishes, like cold sores, are caused by viruses, such as HSV-1. The varicella-zoster virus (VZV) causes chickenpox. INFECTIONS * Certain types of skin infections can cause blemishes to erupt on the skin. These include malassezia folliculitis (fungal acne), an infection in the hair follicles. * This condition is caused by an overgrowth of yeast and causes pustules to form. GENETICS * Acne may have a genetic link. Certain hereditary conditions can also cause blemishes to occur. Darier disease :- Wartlike blemishes form on the skin that are oily, smelly, and hard to the touch. | Fabry disease :- This is an inherited disorder that involves a gene mutation. Small groupings of dark, red spots are a symptom.* Overexposure to the sun's harmful ultraviolet (UV) A and B rays can cause skin cancer, hyperpigmentation, and other forms of skin damage. * DIET What you eat might have an impact on your skin. Food allergies and contact dermatitis can both cause skin irritation and bumps. Dairy products, such as skim milk, may cause acne. Diets high in sugar and simple carbohydrates may also lead to blemishes. | MEDICATIONS * Some prescription and over-the-counter (OTC) medications may cause acne as a side effect. * These include: corticosteroids androgenic steroids lithium WRINKLES are lines, creases and furrow that form in your > skin. They tend to appear in the parts of the body exposed to | sun especially noticeable around your mouth, neck, hands and eyes. They normally appear as people get older, but they can also develop after spending long time in water. CAUSES “> SMOKING * Smoking can accelerate the normal aging process of your skin, contributing to wrinkle. * This may be due to changes in the blood supply to your skin.* Facial movements and expressions such as squinting or smoking leads to fine lines and wrinkles. * Each time when we use a facial muscle, a groove forms beneath the surface of the skin. * And as skin age, it loses its flexibility and is no longer able to spring back in place. * These grooves then become permanent features on your face. + UV radiation, which speeds the natural aging process, is the primary cause of early (premature) wrinkling. * POLLUTION * Free radicals (or harmful, electron- hungry molecules) causes damage when they pull electrons from other molecules in our body. [acne] Acne vulgaris is a disorder of pilosebaceous unit characterized by the formation of comedones, papules, pustules, nodules and cysts. It is the most common disorder encounter in day to day practice by dermatologists. A prickly heat rash, also known medically as miliaria, is a rash that may develop in patients who tend to sweat a great deal more than what is usual, who are also faced with sweat glands that become blocked. CAUSES OF PRICKLY HEAT * Prickly heat rash can be caused by excessive perspiration, usually seen in hot, humid climates. This excessive perspiration can make it easier for dead skin cells as well as bacteria to block the body’s sweat glands, in turn causing a barrier of sorts to be formed, which traps the sweatunder the skin. This condition then results in the sweat building up under the skin, in turn resulting in the characteristic bumps of this condition being seen. As the bumps caused begin to burst, released the trapped sweat, the patient can suffer from a prickly, or stinging sensation that gives this condition its name. BODY ODOR Body odor is what you smell when your sweat comes in contact with the | bacteria on your skin. Sweat itself doesn’t smell, but when the bacteria on your skin mix with your sweat, it causes an odor. Body odor can smell sweet, sour, tangy or like onions. The amount you sweat doesn’t necessarily impact your body odor. OTHER FACTORS THAT CAN AFFECT BODY ODOR ARE Exercise Stress or anxiety Hot weather Being overweight GeneticsERSPIRANTS AND DEODORANTS - ACTIVE AND MECHANISM OF ACTION Points to be covered in this topic INTRODUCTION ACTIVE INGREDIENTS MECHANISM OF ACTION* A deodorant is a substance applied to the body to prevent body odor | caused by the bacterial breakdown of perspiration in armpits, feet, and other areas of the body. | * A subgroup of deodorants, antiperspirants, affect odor as well as | prevent sweating by affecting sweat glands. ~ ANTIPERSPIRANTS * Antiperspirants are typically applied to the under arms, while | deodorants may also be used on feet and other areas in the form of | body sprays. | In the United States, the food and drug administration classifies and regulates most deodorants as cosmetics but classifies antiperspirants as over-the-counter drugs. It should not be irritant to the skin. It should not deteriorate clothing. It should be safe and nontoxic. Easy to use and adhere well on skin. Mask body odor with perfume. Absorb perspiration or inhibit the activity of gram+ ve bacteria, which cause body malodour.“+ COMPONENTS OF SWEATS * Ethnicity: hypotonic liquid form of blood plasma. © Acidic substance which is the degree of ~~ acidity is between 4 and 6. It consists mainly of 99% water and some mineral salts, which are sodium chloride, potassium, and bicarbonate. It also contains inorganic compounds such as lactic acid, urea, and ammonia which secreted by sweat glands. | ¥ ODOR * Numerous odors substances are responsible: * Decomposition of the proteins *Lower fatty acids, steroids and lactones(have no smell, but they fix the odor combined action of food sewing * Physical and psychological conditions * Individual property (dog detection) ¥ Method to control auxiliary odor Reduce apocrine sweating Remove the secretions Impede bacterial growth Absorb body odor[ACTIVEINGREDIENTS __| + Aluminum chlorhydrate Aluminum chloride Basic aluminum bromide Basic aluminum nitrate Basic aluminum iodide Magnesium aluminum chloride » TYPES OF ANTIPERSPIRANT * Aerosol * Sticks * Cream 1. AEROSOL * Asubstance enclosed under pressure and able to be released as a fine spray, typically by means ofa propellant gas. Y FORMULATION * An aerosol] formulation consists of two components: the product concentrate and the propellant. The product concentrate is the active drug combined with additional ingredients or co-solvents required to make a stable and efficacious product. The concentrate can be a solution, suspension, emulsion, semisolid, or powder. | a a =2. STICKS * Asticksis a solid delivery vehicle cast in an elongated form. * By rubbing a sticks onto a skin a variety of cosmetics ingredients can be delivered such as fragrances, coloring agent, and emollients. v ACTIVE INGREDIENT OF DRY ANTIPERSIPIRANTS STICKS POWDER PHASE INGREDIENTS | LIQUID PHASE INGREDIENTGS Avicel Volatile silicon Italian tale Isopropylan 33 Ultra fine AICI2 Dry-Flo starch * A substance applied to the body to suppress or mask the odor of perspiration or other body odors. Y ACTIVE INGREDIENT OF CREAM * Isopropyl myristate Benton 38 Ethyl alcohol Zirconium complex Silicon Perfume % AEROSOL DEODORANTS * A system of colloidal particles dispersed in a gas; smoke or fog or containing a liquid or gas under pressure for dispensing as a spray or foam: a deodorant available in aerosol cans.Most antiperspirants contain ingredients called aluminum salts. The main way in which they work is to dissolve in sweat and createathin | coating of gel to cover over the sweat glands. This coating reduces the amount of sweat released onto the surface of the skin for a number of hours after the antiperspirant is applied.