All About Textile
B.M Shahid Mahmud
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Textile: Textile was originally woven fabric but the terms textile and the
plural textile are now also applied to fiber , filament , and yarns ,
natural and manufactured ,and most product for which these are a
principal raw material.
Textile Fiber : Textile raw material generally characterized by length ,
strength , fineness and cohesiveness which is used to produce yarn to
fabric.
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Natural Fiber : A fiber occurring in nature is called natural fiber.
Example : cotton , jute , wool, silk etc.
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Man Made Fiber : A fiber that does not occur in nature although the
material of which it is composed may occur in naturally . Example :
Polyester , Nylon , Acrylic etc .
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Yarn : A product of substantial length and relatively small cross section
consisting of fibers and / or filament with or without twist.
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Filament : A fiber of indefinite length .
Sliver : An assemblage of fibers in continuous form without twist.
Carded Sliver : An assemblage of fibers in continuous form without
twist which is produced by carding machine.
Drawn Sliver : An assemblage of fibers in continuous form without twist
which is produced by drawing machine.
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Carding Machine
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Drawing Machine
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Roving : Roving is the relatively fine fibrous strands used in the taler or
final processes of preparation for spinning . Small amount of twist is
inserted here.
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Count : Count is numerical value which express the fineness or
coarseness of yarn.
5Ne : 5 Ne means number of hanks of 840 yds in 1 lb is 5.
Mixing : Mixing is the intermingling of different grades of same fiber.
Blending : Blending is the intermingling of different kind of fiber .
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Bale Management: Bale management is define as the choice of cotton
bales according to the fiber characteristics in order to achieve
acceptable economical conditions and consistent yarn quality .
Carding : Carding is the disentanglement ,cleaning and intermixing of
fibers to produce a continuous web or sliver suitable for subsequent
processing .
Carding is the heart of spinning .
Well carded is half spun
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Drawing : Drawing is the operation by which sliver ( carded) are blended,
doubled or levelled and by drafting reduced to a sliver (Drawn) suitable
for yarn.
Doubling: Doubling is the process of combing two
or more slivers, roving and yarn into one. Carded sliver
Drafting: Drafting is the process of reducing the
thickness of the feed material by drawing
D
Drawn Sliver
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Fabric: A flexible sheet material that is assembled of textile
fibers and/or yarns that are woven , knitted and non-woven
etc.
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Woven Fabric : Weaving is the process of intermixing two sets of
yarn at right angles.
The thread which lie along the length of the fabric are termed
warp threads and those which lie across the width are termed
weft threads
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Winding: Winding can be defined as the transfer of yarn from
one package (ring bobbin ,hanks etc) to another suitable
package.
Warping: Warping can be defined as the process of parallel
winding of definite number of warp yarn onto a beam with a
definite width and density.
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Sizing : The process of applying a protective adhesive coating
upon the yarn surface is called sizing
De-Sizing: De-Sizing is the process of removal of sizes and other
substances applied as weaving aids.
Drawing-in: The warp yarn are drawn in the correct order
through the heald eyes or the jacquard harness is called drawing
–in.
Denting: The warp yarn are drawn in the correct order through
the dents of reed is called denting.
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Shearing and Cropping : Shearing and cropping is an operation in
which floating portion of yarn and fiber are cut.
Singeing: Singeing is the process of removal of the short fiber /
protruding fibers from the fabric surface by burning .
Scouring: Scouring is the process of removal of nature and added
impurities from the textile.
Bleaching: Bleaching is the process of destruction of natural coloring
matter from the textiles and improving the whiteness.
Mercerizing : Mercerizing is the treatment of cotton with strong alkali
at normal temperature under tension for improving strength
,absorbency and luster .
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Dyeing: Dyeing can be defined as the application of dyes on
textile materials like fibers ,yarns and fabrics ,usually by
immersing in a bath of dye.
Printing: Printing can be defined as the process of applying
color to fabric or garments in a definite patterns or designs.
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Finishing : The term finishing cover a wide range of processes . In
general it means making the fabric suitable for its intended end-use.
Pattern: The individual part of an apparel which is shaped by hard
drawing paper is called pattern.
Marker: Marker is a thin paper which contain all the pattern of
different part of an apparel for cutting is called marker.
Production Pattern: The production which is used for bulk
production is called production pattern.
Grading: The process of making pattern of different sizes of
garments from the master pattern is called grading.
Sample: Before going for bulk production ,the garment which is
made as a design /model is called the sample
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CMT: It is an abbreviation and the full meaning of which is cut-make-
trim. This means the garments order supplier will provide fabrics
and design/style and the garments manufacture’s duty will be to cut
that fabric and after making the garments as per the supplied style ,
will deliver it to the order supplier.
Dimension Stability: The quality of retention of dimension , shape or
size of fabrics or garments is called dimensional stability .
Lining: The fabric which covers the garments fabric from the inner
side of the garments is called lining.
Inter lining: In certain part of the garments, a special fabric layer is
used between two layer of fabric for retention of the shape of that
part ,for increasing the strength or for increasing the thickness and
that special type of fabric layer is called inter lining.
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Swatch: A small piece of fabric which is used as sample for presentation
of the color , grade or quality of a fabric is called the swatch.
L.C. : It is an abbreviation whose full meaning is letter of credit. In favor
of a buyer , the bank(buyer’s bank) offers a letter of guarantee or a
document to the seller through his(seller’s) bank for remitting the value
of the sold good. This is called the L.C. .It is an important document in
import export business.
C.I.F.: If the value of sold goods is mentioned in the invoice including the
transportation cost and insurance costs ,Then it is called the C.I.F price.
Label: A garment label is a communication between the buyer and the
product.
Motif: The motif is a trimming that is used to increase the attraction and
make the garments fashionable. Shahid
Grinning: If any gap is created due to apply crosswise force along
the seams then it is called grinning . It is a seam defect.
Ginning : The process of separating the seed from the cotton fiber
is called ginning .
Lint: Raw fiber , after ginning is called lint. Cotton fiber separated
from the seed is called lint.
Linters: The short , fuzzy fibers still attached to the seed after
ginning is called linters
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The Textile Pipeline
Natural
Fiber Man made
Staple fiber
Yarn
Continuous filament
Woven
Textile Knits Coloration
Non woven Chemical finishing
Textile finishing Mechanical finishing
Bespoke
Clothing manufacture Industrial
Chain store
Retailing Independent
Use
Consumer After care
Recovery
Incineration
Disposal/Recycling Land file
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Properties of Textile Fibers
1. Primary /fundamental properties :
Length
Strength
Fineness
Cohesiveness
2. Secondary / Desirable properties:
Crimp Resistant to Acid
Drape Resistant to Alkali
Elasticity Resistant to Water
Tenacity Resistant to light
Density Resistant to Biological
Handle Agents
Stiftness Resistant to heat
Luster
Absorption
Colour
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Classification of fiber
1. Natural Fiber
a) Vegetable
i. Seed(cotton ,choir , kapok)
ii. Bast (Jute , Elax , Hemp , Remic)
iii. Leaf ( Sisal, Manila)
b) Animal
i. Wool
ii. Silk
iii. Fine hair(Vicuna , Camel , Alphaca )
iv. Coarse hair(Goat, horse)
c) Mineral
i. Asbestas
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Classification of fiber
[Link] –made fiber:
a) Natural polymers
i. Cellulosic( Viscose , Modal ,Acetate , Tri-acetate)
ii. Alginate
iii. Rubber
iv. Protein (Azlon)
b) Synthetic polymers
i. Elastomeric ( Elastene,Elastadien)
ii. Fluoro Fiber(Fluoro)
iii. Chloro Fiber(Vinyle Chloride,Vinlidene chloride)
iv. Poly Acrylic (Acrylic, Moda Acrylic)
v. Poly amides( Aramid,Nylon)
vi. Polyesters(Polyester)
vii. Poly olefines( Poly ethylene, Poly propylene)
viii. Vinyle (Poly vinyle alcohol)
c) Inorganic (Glass,Carbon,Metalic)
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Classification of fabric:
1. Weaving(Apparel fabric, carpet fabric, and narrow fabric)
2. Knitting(Weft knitting and warp knitting)
3. Non-woven(Needle punch , bonded web and felting)
Types of packages
1. Parallel wound package
a) Warp beam
b) Weavers beam
2. Near parallel wound package
a) Pirn
b) Cop
c) Flanged bobbin
3. Cross wound package
a) Cone
b) Cheese
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Types of Chemical finishing: Types of Mechanical finishing:
Water repellent/proof Raising
Flame retardant Shearing
Anti-pilling Calendaring
Stain resistant Embossing
Rot proofing Sanding
Moth proofing Shrinking
Pressing
Styles of printing:
Direct style of printing
Resist style of printing
Discharge style of printing
Flock printing
Transfer printing
Pigment printing
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Object Of Blowroom :
• Opening the compressed cotton bale into small tufts.
• Cleaning the dust , broken leaf , seed particles , grass and other impurities from the fiber.
• Mixing/blending the different types of fibers
• Uniform lap forming in conventional system and chute feeding in modern system.
Object Of Carding:
• To remove the small trash particle which have not been taken out ,in previous stage
• To remove neps and motes
• To give some degree of blending
• To eliminate the remaining impurities
• To produce a thick sliver
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Object of Winding:
• To transfer yarn from one package to another suitable package
• To improve the yarn quality
• To get suitable yarn package
• To store the yarn
• To minimize the thick and thin places of yarn
Object of Warping:
• Winding of a definite number of warp yarns onto a warp beam.
• To increase the quality of yarn
• To increase the weave ability of yarn
• To make a yarn sheet of convenient number for next sizing process
• To increase the production
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Object of Sizing :
• To improve the weave ability of warp yarn
• To maintain the fabric quality by reducing hairiness and weakness
• To increase the tensile or breaking strength of cellulosic yarn
• To increase the elasticity of the yarn
• To increase the frictional resistance
• To reduce the electrostatic formation
Object of scouring:
• To remove the natural and added impurities from the fabric
• To increase the absorbency of fabric
Object of Bleaching:
• To destroy the natural coloring matters from the textiles
• To improve the whiteness of textiles
• To be dyed a deep shade with a dark colour
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Object of Mercerizing:
• To increase the absorbency of fabric
• To increase the strength of fabric
• To increase the luster of fabric
Objectives in finishing:
• Modification of the surface(raising , smoothing , embossing etc)
• Modification of the wearing properties(staining , creasing , draping etc)
• Modification of after care characteristic( ironic , shrinking etc)
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Dyestuffs in relation to the fiber substrate
Dyestuff Textiles
Direct Cotton , linen , viscose , silk
Reactive Cotton , linen , viscose , silk, wool
Vat Cotton , linen , viscose
Sulphure Cotton , linen , viscose
Azoic Cotton , linen , viscose
Metal complex Wool , silk , nylon
Acid Wool , Silk , nylon
Chrome Wool , Silk ,Nylon
Disperse Acetate , Poly ester , Nylon
Basic Acrylics, jute
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Sizing ingredients and its function
Ingredients Name Function
Adhesive Starch , PVA , CMC etc To make warp yarn stronger
and elastic
Lubricating agents Japan wax , coconut oil, To increase smoothness
palm oil slippery and reduce friction
Antiseptic Salicylic acid, Zinc To save the yarn from various
Chloride, Phenol micro-organism like mildew
Tinting agent Blue To reduce yellowness and
increase brightness
Antifoaming agent Benzene , Pyridine To remove foam from sizing
mixture
Welting agents China clay , sodium To increase size exhaust with
phosphate uniform distribution
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Carded Yarn VS Combed Yarn
Carded Yarn Combed Yarn
The yarn which is obtained without combing is The yarn which is obtained by combing is called
called carded yarn combing yarn
The quality of carded yarn is not better than The quality of combed yarn is better than
combed yarn carded yarn
Combing action is not done here Combing action is done here
Short fiber percentage is high Short fiber percentage is low
Less Strength Higher strength
Irregular Regular
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Hand loom VS Power loom
Hand loom Power loom
Operating system is manual Operating by electric power
Shedding is done by paddle and picking Sheading , picking and beating is done
and beating is done by hand automatically
Less production High production
Low running speed High running speed
Check and striped fabric are produced Normally single colored fabric is
produced
Normally produced fabric is costly Normally produced fabric is cheaper
Initial investment is less Initial investment is high
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Hand loom Power loom
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Knitting VS Weaving
Knitting Weaving
The process in which fabrics are The process in which fabrics are
produced by interlocking series of loops produced by interlacing two sets of
of one or more yarns thread(warp and weft) according to
design
Single sets of yarn is used in this method Two sets of yarn is used in this method
Sizing is not required Sizing is required
No need yarn preparation Need yarn preparation
Higher production rate Lower production rate
Lower production cost Higher production cost
Fabric is produced with higher elasticity Fabric is produced by lower elasticity
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Dyeing VS Printing
Dyeing Printing
Dyes are applied on the whole fabric Dyes are applied on the fabric localized to
equally , usually by immersing in a bath produce desired design
of dye
Fabric, yarn and fibers are dyed by dyeing Generally printing is done on fabric or
garment
Dyes are applied on the both sides of the Dyes are applied on only one side of the
fabric fabric
No precise design is required for dyeing Design must for printing
Only for hue is produced One or more hue is produced
Thickener is not used Thickener is used
Huge amount of water is required for Small amount of water is required for
dyeing printing
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Tailoring system Vs Industrial system
Tailoring system Industrial System
1 or 2 men are required to make a A lot of man power is required to make
garment the garment
A few hour is required to make a garment Less than a minute is required to make a
garment
Pattern is not required Pattern is required
Garment is produced with body Garments are produced as per standard
measurement of a specific person measurement of body for all person
No need of doing grading Grading is required
Garments can be made by a single Garments are made by using a lot of
machine machinery
Total value of garments is expensive Total value of garments is comparatively
cheaper
Fabric wastage is high Fabric wastage is less
Initial investment is less Initial investment is high
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This Photo by Unknown Author is licensed
under CC BY-NC-ND
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Lining Inter lining
A common term used to cover inner Inter lining is an important accessory in
surface of garments , especially when garments, which is used between two
inner face employs different materials layers of fabric
form the outer surface
Generally smooth and lustrous fabrics Inter lining fabrics is made of cotton ,
made of silk or manufacture fiber or nylon , polyester ,viscose and wool
cotton is used in lining
Lining is mostly applied in jacket and Inter lining is generally used in cuffs ,
coats collar and the front part of jacket and
coats
Lining can be lustrous wool alphaca fabric Inter lining can be used canvas flannel
or silk filling and non woven fabric
Lining is joined by sewing Inter lining is joined by fushing and
sewing
This is used to feel comfort and to This is used to hold up, support control
prevent wear on a side area of garments and to keep real shape
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Inter lining
Lining Shahid
Sewing Method Alternative method
Fabrics are joined by needles and threads Fabrics are joined by adhesive or by
melting the polymer present in the fabric
or by making the permanent set in new
volume by applying heat and pressure
Fabrics remain flexible along the sewing Fabrics remain stiff and it becomes
line rough along the sewing line
The sewing line does not prickle in the The sewing line maybe felt like prickle in
body that means the use is comfortable the body , not comfortable
The strength of the seam produced in The strength of the seam is
this method is high comparatively poor
Fabrics can be joined by sewing in high Fabrics can be joined by sewing
speed comparatively in low speed
All kinds of fabrics can be joined All kinds of fabrics can not be joined
The most widely used method of joining Used in very limited cases for joining of
of fabric fabrics
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Sewing Method Alternative method
For any kind of defects re-sewing can be Re-sewing can not be done by opening
done by opening the sewing the sewing for any defects
Water can enter into the fabric through Water can not enter into the fabric
the hole made by needles , for which the through the seam , for which the seam is
seam is not water repellent water repellent
The possibility of seam slippage is high in The possibility of seam slippage is
case of synthetic fabrics comparatively low
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Label and Motif
Label Motif
The label is a must needed part of any The motif is an optional part of any
garments garments
It is used in all types of clothing It is used only for fashionable garments
It is used for functional purposes It is used for decorative purposes
It is made of woven fabric or paper It is made of embroiders or by printing
design
It contains the size of the garment, It contains the country name or brand
manufacturing country name , care name.
instruction etc .
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Flow Charts
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Carded Yarn Manufacturing Process
Selection of Bale
Mixing
Blow room
Carding Carded Sliver
Draw frame( i and ii) Drawn sliver
Speed frame Roving
Ring frame Yarn
Winding
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Combed Yarn Manufacturing Process
Selection of Bale
Mixing
Blow room
Carding
Pre comb drawing
Sliver lap m/c /super lap/comber lap
Combing
Post Comb drawing
Speed frame/ Roving frame
Ring frame
Winding
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Woven Fabric Manufacturing Process
Yarn from spinning industry
Warp Preparation Weft Preparation
(cone , cheese winding) (cone/pirn/cop winding)
Warping
Sizing / Dressing
Drawing -in
Denting
Weaving
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Wet Processing
Grey fabric from fabric industry
Brushing , shearing and cropping
Singeing
De-sizing
Scouring
Bleaching
Mercerizing
Dyeing Printing
Finishing
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Garments manufacturing process
Order from buyer
Design /sketch
Pattern design
Sample making
Production Pattern
Grading
Marker making/ lay planning
Fabric spreading
Fabric cutting
Sorting/bundling
Sewing assemblage
Inspection
Final pressing/Finishing
Final inspection
Package
Shipment/dispatch to buyer
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Carding Action Occurs Between Cylinder and flat
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1. Carding Action:
If two closed surfaces have opposite wire direction and their relative motion or speed direction is
also opposite then the two actions among two surfaces is termed as carding action.
Carding action is done between cylinder and flat. Here, wire direction and speed direction is also
opposite. There always should be point against point direction if the two surfaces move in the
same direction but at different speed.
2. Stripping Action:
Stripping action is that where two close surfaces have same wire direction and their relative
motion or speed direction is also same.
Stripping action is occurred between cylinder and taker, striper and doffer. Here, speed direction
and wire direction is same. In striping action there always should be back and point action.
3. Doffing Action:
Doffing action is termed in that cases when two close surfaces wire points are inclined in the
opposite direction and also their speed direction is same then the action is known as doffing
action.
This type of carding machine action is done between doffer and cylinder. Here, speed direction is
same but wire direction is opposite. It should be noted here that, it is a special type of carding
machine action. Sliver formation has done by using this action.
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ANSI-American National Standards Institute
AQL-Acceptable Quality Level
AATCC-American Association For Textile Chemist and Colorist
BS-British Standard
BV-Bureau Veritas
BSCI- Business Social Compliance Initiative
BTMA-Bangladesh Textile Mills Association
BGMEA-Bangladesh Garment Manufactures and Exporters Association
BKMEA-Bangladesh Knitwear Manufactures and Exporters Association
CAD- Computer Aided Design
CAM- Computer Aided Manufacturing
CAP-Corrective Action Plan
CIF-Cost , Insurance and Freight
CM- Cut and Make
COC-Code of conduct
CSR-Corporate Social Responsibility
EIN-Exporter Identification Number
ETD-Estimated Time od Departure
EU-European Union
EPZ-Export Processing Zone
EPB-Export Promotion Bureau Shahid
ERP-Enterprise Resource Planning
ETI-Ethical Trade Initiative
ETP-Effluent Treatment Plant
FOB-Free On Board
GDP-Gross Domestic Product
GSP-Generalized System of Preferences
GATT-General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade
ISO-International Organization for Standardization
ILO-International Labor Organization
ITS-Intertek Testing Service
L/C-Letter of Credit
LDCs-Least Development Countries
MDU-Memorandum Of Understanding
MRP-Material Requirement Planning
PO-Purchase Order
PSS-Product Specification Sheet
QA-Quality Assurance
QC-Quality Control
RMG- Ready Made Garment
SOP- Standard Operating Procedure
WTO-World Trade Organization
WRAP-World Wide Responsible Accredited Production Shahid
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