MISHINSY®

MISHINSY®

Athanasius by MISHINSY®

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Please, read the text below carefully!

This crochet pattern is copyrighted and it is for personal use only!

You may not copy, translate into other languages, as well as distribute of

any part of this crochet pattern!

However, you are welcome to sell the finished item in a limited number

provided that you credit me (Mishinsy) as the designer and add an active link

to my Instagram profile @mishinsy when listing online!

Thank you for your understanding and I wish you a pleasant crocheting!

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Table of contents:

Materials and Tools……………………………………….………………………………………………………..5

Crochet terms & abbreviations………….………………………………………………………………….6

Two Legs…..…………………………………......……………………………………………………………………..7

Body…………………..…………………………………………………………………………………………………….7

Head………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………10

Two Hands……………………….……………………………………………………………………………...…...11

Two Ears……………………………………………………………………………………………………………….11

Muzzle……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………12

Tail…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….…..12

Assembling…………………………………………………………………………………………………………….13

Decorations…………………………………………………………………………………………………………...14

Scarf for Athanasius…………………………………………………………………………………………….14

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MATERIALS NEEDED:
1) Main color yarn:
Brown yarn – for body;
Beige yarn – for muzzle.
I used Troitskaya «Krokha».
A very nice substitute is Drops «Lima» yarn.
2) Crochet hook (choose the hook size depending on the yarn weight). I used
1,75 mm hook;
3) Yarn for Athanasius’s scarf (on your discretion);
4) Knitting needles (I used 2,5 mm needles);
5) Stuffing material (polyester, possible substitute: swans down);
6) Chopsticks – for stuffing;
7) Embroidery floss or Iris yarn- for nose embroidering;
8) Caprone thread – for paws jointing;
9) Eyes (half beads, beads or safety eyes) 3-4 mm.;
10) Needles – to sew pieces, eyes, and other décor elements;
11) Scissors;
12) Chalk pastel or rouge for toning.

The size of the toy depends on yarn weight and gauge. My bears turned out to
be 25 cm high.

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ABBREVIATIONS:
MR = magic (amigurumi) ring
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
CH = chain stitch
dec = decrease
inc = increase
rnd = round
[...]* = repeat the instructions in brackets N times

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LEGS (make 2):

The first leg
1 rnd: 6 sc in MR (6);
2 rnd: inc*6 = 12 sc (12);
3 rnd: (1 sc, inc)*6 = 18 sc (18);
4 rnd: (2 sc, inc)*6 = 24 sc (24);
5 rnd – 15 rnd = 24 sc (11 rnds 24 across).
Fix and cut the thread leaving a tail (around 5-10 cm long) to continue
crocheting the body.

The second leg

Repeat rounds 1-15, but do not cut the thread this time.
Continue crocheting the body.

BODY
Place the marker in the last stitch of the second leg – it will indicate the end
of each next round.
Work 11 sc along the second leg (the one we did not cut the thread of), then
work 1 increase and chain 6.
The last chain stitch is on the hook.
Take the first leg.
Insert the hook into the base of the last stitch of the last round of the first leg.
Work 1 sc in this stitch, then work 24 sc and one more sc in the last stitch of
the last round of the first leg (the same way as the first sc in this stitch, but
from the other side) – please see the pic. below.

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Then work: inc+ 4 sc + inc (along the other side of the chain) + inc on the cusp
of the chain and leg (at the same time work the first sc very tightly to
minimize the space between the chain stitches and leg) + last 11 sc to reach
the marker.
While working the second round watch carefully over the previous round
stitches for they can hide behind the chain stitches!

Now in short:
1 rnd: 11 sc, inc + 6 CH + (additional sc + 24 sc + additional sc) + (inc, 4 sc,
inc) + inc, 11 sc = 66 sc (66);
2 rnd: 12 sc; inc + (inc, 4 sc, inc) + inc, 46 sc = 70 sc (70);
Now while stuffing the toy in the place of attaching the first leg to the body
there can occur a small opening. To avoid this you need to take the tail from
the first leg (ticked in the pic. below) and pull it using a hook through back
loops as if tightening them.

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3 rnd – 14 rnd = 70 sc (12 rnds 70 across);

Check the beginning of the round. It should be exactly on the right side, if you
fold your body in half. If your beginning of the round is placed differently work
additional displacement sc.
15 rnd: (5 sc, dec)*5 + 35 sc = 65 sc (65);
16 rnd – 18 rnd= 65 sc (work 3 rnds 65 across);

At this stage, you can start stuffing the toy beginning with the legs, paying
special attention to the area of joining to the body. Use chopsticks to help
stuffing. Stuff tightly and evenly! The better you stuff the toy, the better the
toy will look in the end!
Add polyester in the course of work further on.
19 rnd: (4 sc, dec)*5 + 35 sc = 60 sc (60);
20 rnd – 23 rnd = 60 sc (work 4 rnds 60 across);
24 rnd: (8 sc, dec)*6= 54 sc (54);
25 rnd – 28 rnd = 54 sc (4 rnds 54 across);

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29 rnd: (7 sc, dec)*6= 48 sc (48);

30 rnd – 33 rnd = 48 sc (4 rnds 48 across);
34 rnd: (6 sc, dec)*6= 42 sc (42);
35 rnd – 38 rnd = 42 sc (4 rnds 42 across);
39 rnd: (5 sc, dec)*6= 36 sc (36);
40 rnd = 36 sc
Continue crocheting. Start working the head.

HEAD:
41 rnd: (5 sc, inc)*6 = 42 sc (42);
42 rnd – 49 rnd = 42 sc (work 8 rnds 42 across);
50 rnd: (6 sc, inc)*6= 48 sc (48);
51 rnd – 56 rnd = 48 sc (work 6 rnds 48 across);
57 rnd: (6 sc, dec)*6= 42 sc (42);
58 rnd: (5 sc, dec)*6= 36 sc (36);
59 rnd: (4 sc, dec)*6= 30 sc (30);
60 rnd: (3 sc, dec)*6 = 24 sc (24);
61 rnd: (2 sc, dec)*6 = 18 sc (18);
Stuff a bit more, using a chopstick, arranging polyester evenly around the hole.
62 rnd: (1 sc, dec)*6 = 12 sc (12);
63 rnd: dec*6 = 6 sc (6);
Now add some more polyester, paying special attention to the areas around
the hole. We want the head to be of a rounded shape, it should not be
flattened.
Tighten the hole. Cut and hide the tail.

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ARMS:
1 rnd: 6 sc in MR. (6);
2 rnd: inc *6 = 12 sc (12);
3 rnd: 12 sc (12);
4 rnd: (1 sc, inc)*6 = 18 sc (18);
5 rnd – 25 rnd = 18 sc (21 rnds 18 across);
26 rnd: (4 sc, dec) * 3 = 15 sc (15);
27 rnd – 29 rnd = 15 sc (3 rnds 15 across);
30 rnd: (3 sc, dec) * 3 = 12 sc (12);
Stuff the arm. Approximately up to round 23.
31 rnd: dec*6 = 6 sc (6) Tighten the hole. Fix and cut the thread. Crochet the
second arm in the same way.

EARS (make 2)
For Athanasius:
1 rnd: 5 sc в MR (5);
2 rnd: inc * 5 = 10 sc (10);
3 rnd – 5 rnd = 10 sc (3 rnds 10 across);
6 rnd: fold the ear in half and work through both halves’ loops.
Fix and cut the thread, leaving a tail for sewing.
Do not stuff ears!

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MUZZLE
1 rnd: chain 9 CH.
From the 2nd stitch from the hook work 7 sc, 3 sc in the last stitch, 6 sc along
the other side of the chain, inc - 18 sc in total (18)
2 rnd: (inc, 7 sc, inc) * 2 = 22 sc (22);
3 rnd – 5 rnd = 22 sc (3 rnds 22)

TAIL:
1 rnd: 5 sc in MR;
2 rnd: inc *5 = 10 sc (10);
3 rnd: 10 sc (10);
4 rnd: dec * 5 = 5 sc (5)
Do not stuff the tail.

ASSEMBLY:
1) Sew ears to the head.
For Athanasius sew counting 4 rounds from the top of the head.
2) Sew arms to the body with caprine thread following the instructions:
Insert the needle right above round 28 of the arm.

Then insert the needle right above round 31 of the body.

Then join the arms as shown in the picture:

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3) Sew the tail (at the level of round 9 of the body).

4) Sew on the muzzle:
For Athanasius count 14 rounds from the top of the head. Staff the muzzle
while sewing using a chopstick.

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DECORATION:
1) Embroider the nose using embroidery floss or Iris yarn. Make vertical
stitches. Insert the needle from bottom to top:

For Athanasius – between rounds 2 and 4 of the muzzle («capturing» 3

rounds);
2) Sew eyes between rounds 13 and 14 of the head. I use black beads. The
gap between the eyes is 4-5 stitches.
3) Add some color to cheeks using rouge or chalk pastel.
4) Decorate the bears with accessories, at your discretion.

Scarf for Athanasius:

Cast on 9 stitches. Knit in ribbing stitch 1*1 as many rows as you like to reach
the needed length of the scarf.

Your bear is ready!

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