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Fig. Hand picking of cotton

Fig. Machine picking of cotton

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USTER HVI

• The USTER® HVI testing system (High-Volume

Instrument) uses the latest measurement technology
for the testing of large quantities of cotton samples within
a minimum amount of time.

• It is a high-performance system that permits the

annual classification of entire cotton crops. Particularly
worth mentioning is the exclusive use of this system at the
US Department of Agriculture (USDA).

• HVI systems are also used for the classification of

entire inventories or complete lots at the cotton
producer, at the merchant or in the spinning mill.

• Uster Technologies Inc. introduced a new High Volume

Instrument, the HVI SPECTRUM, at the ITMA exhibition
in Paris in June 1999.

• The HVI SPECTRUM is available with one cabinet for length

and strength measurement as an HVI SPECTRUM I or with
two length/strength cabinets as an HVI SPECTRUM II (as
shown below) for greater sample throughput.
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There are three modules in this instrument

1. Micronaire module
2. Color/trash module
3. Length/strength module

Test Results of HVI

Table below lists the different test results that can be obtained
with the USTER HVI SPECTRUM.
It also shows the type of format being used (the number
of decimals displayed), and the abbreviations used in the
printout.

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Micronaire (Mic)
The micronaire value is a measure of the fiber fineness and
the maturity. The measurement of micronaire is based on an
airflow principle. A fiber sample of constant weight (4 gm) is entered
into the airflow chamber, and passing air through the fibers and
measuring the drop in pressure are measured. In other words,
by this air flow method the air permeability of a constant mass of
cotton fibers.

Compressed to a fixed volume is measured. The finer and the

more immature the fibers, the higher the resistance to airflow.

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• Micronaire can be influenced during the growing period by

environmental conditions such as moisture, temperature,
sunlight, plant nutrients, and extremes in plant or boll (the
rounded seed capsule of plants such as cotton or flax)
populations.
• Fiber fineness affects processing performance and the quality
of the end product in several ways. In the opening, cleaning,
and carding processes, low micronaire, or fine cottons
require slower processing speeds to prevent damage to the
fibers, i.e. the processing speed in spinning mills must be
checked carefully to avoid damage particularly to fine fibers.
• Yarns made from finer fiber result in more fibers per cross-
section, which in turn produces stronger yarns. Dye
absorbency and retention varies with the maturity of the fibers.
• Since immature fibers are also fine fibers, a low micronaire value
can indicate the presence of immature fibers and, therefore, can
affect the dye uptake in a fabric.
• The greater the maturity, the better the absorbency and
retention.
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Maturity Index (Mat)

The maturity index is a relative value that is calculated using a
sophisticated algorithm including other HVI SPECTRUM
measurements such as micronaire, strength, and elongation.
Maturity indicates the degree of cell wall thickness within
a cotton sample. The HVI SPECTRUM Maturity Index
correlates very well to the AFIS Maturity Ratio and the
reference method of microscopy (cross-sectional analysis).

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Upper Half Mean Length (Len)

• The by weight measurement of the Upper Half Mean
Length is calculated from the Fibrogram.

• A fiber beard of randomly clamped fibers is scanned

optically across its length and the Fibrogram is derived
from it.

• The Upper Half Mean Length corresponds to the classer’s

staple length as well as to the AFIS Upper Quartile
Length by weight.

• A length range is assigned inches for each length staple or

code. The ranges calculated in millimeters do not line up
exactly due to the conversion calculation.

• However, inches or 32nds are mainly used for staple length

determination in the international cotton trade and are
therefore binding.
• The fiber length affects the yarn evenness, the yarn
strength, the yarn elongation and the spinning process.

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Uniformity Index (Unf)

The Uniformity Index expresses the ratio of the Mean Length to

the Upper Half Mean Length. It is an indication of the
distribution of fiber length within the Fibrogram. It describes
how evenly the fiber length is distributed within a cotton
sample. This value is expressed in percent.

2.5% Span length

50% Span length

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• If all of the fibers in the bale were of the same length,

the mean length and the UHML would be the same, and the
Uniformity Index would be 100. However, there is a natural
variation of the length of cotton fibers, so Uniformity Index
will always be less than 100.

• A low Length Uniformity at equal Upper Mean Length of two

cotton bales indicates that the amount of shorter fibers is
higher.

• This affects the spinning process and the quality

characteristics of yarns. Low length uniformity increases the
unevenness and decreases the strength of yarn.

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Short Fiber Index (SFI)

• The Short Fiber Index is a value that is calculated using a

sophisticated algorithm. The Fibrogram is mathematically
converted to a length distribution curve.
• The SFI is an indication of the amount of fibers (%) that are
less than 0.5 inch (12.7 mm) in length. It correlates very well
to the AFIS Short Fiber Content by weight (SFC w).

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Strength (Str)

• The fiber strength is determined at the same fiber bundle which is

used for fiber length measurement. The jaws are placed 3 mm
(1/8 inch) apart and the bundle strength or the breaking
strength of the cotton fibers is obtained in gm/tex or cN/tex.
The fineness is calculated from the micronaire value. The fiber
bundle is broken at a continuous deformation rate (CRE =
Constant Rate of Extension).
For surviving in the subsequent
processes, particularly the
weaving process, yarns have to
reach a minimum strength,
and the yarn strength is
determined by the fiber
strength considerably.

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Moisture (Moist)
• Moisture is the percentage of water that is present in the
sample being tested.

• Moisture in the cotton varies with time, temperature, and

humidity to which the samples have been exposed.

• Consistent moisture is necessary to maintain HVI

SPECTRUM test results on the same level of accuracy and
precision. The best level of precision and accuracy are
obtained when sample moisture has an average of 6.5%
- 8%

• In HVI, moisture of fiber is measured by a patented resistance

moisture sensor during trash and color measurement.

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Color Grade
• The color grade is a measure of the reflectance (Rd) and the
yellowness (+b) of cotton fibers.
• The two quality parameters can also be measured with the
HVI system. The determination of the color grade is based
on the Nickerson-Hunter cotton colorimeter diagram for
Upland cotton.
• The color code can be determined at the point where the
reflectance Rd and the yellowness +b intersect on the
Nickerson-Hunter scale.
• There exists a relationship between the grades used by
certified classers and the Nickerson- Hunter scale which is
shown in Table and Figure below:

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Reflectance (Rd):
This value expresses the whiteness of the light that is reflected by
the cotton fibers. It corresponds to the reflectance (Rd) represented in
the Nickerson/Hunter color chart. It is used in conjunction with the
yellowness (+b) to determine the instrument-measured color grade of the
cotton.

Yellowness (+b)
This value expresses the yellowness of the light that is reflected by
the cotton fibers. The yellowness (+b) of the sample is determined by
using a yellow filter. It corresponds to the +b value represented in the
Nickerson/Hunter color chart. The yellowness is used in conjunction with
the reflectance (Rd) value to determine the instrument-measured
color grade of the cotton.

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Trash content

• Cotton usually contains, in its raw state, various amounts of trash

residues depending on the harvesting methods, where the hand-
picked cotton is much less contaminated by trash than the
mechanically harvested cotton.
• Even when cotton is carefully harvested under ideal field conditions, it
is very difficult not to include at least some trash.
• Although much of the trash is removed by the cleaning and drying
process during ginning, yet it is at present impractical to remove all
trash.
• However, trash residues found in raw cotton include dried and broken
plant foliage of various kinds such as leaf (large and pepper leaf
particles), stems, hulls, bark, bracts in addition to whole seeds, parts
of crushed seeds, grass, sand, dust and motes (undeveloped or
immature seeds and ovules).
• There is an inverse significant relationship between cotton grade
and trash content, where the measured trash tends to increase
progressively and consist as the intensity of ginning process.
• Trash represents a loss since it must be removed as waste on the
manufacturing process, and its elimination is inevitably accompanied
by a loss of fibers.
• Further, the small fine particles of trash (especially seed-coat
fragments) that are not removed during manufacturing detract
the quality and appearance of the manufactured yarns and
fabrics.
• In general, cottons which contain the least amount of trash have
highest spinning value.

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Leaf/Trash Grade (Tr Grade):

Leaf or trash grade describes the leaf or trash (seed-coat fragment, grass, bark etc) content in
the cotton. This grade is a visual estimate of the amount of cotton plant leaf or trash particles in
the cotton. Purity as regards the presence of foreign matter (waste such as leaves or earth) is of
the utmost importance.
There are seven official leaf grades for American upland cotton designated as "Leaf Grade 1"
through "Leaf Grade 7".

Fig. Relationship of trash measurement to

Classer’s leaf grade. According to 2001 USDA crop
data (4 year average).

Spinning Consistency Index (SCI):

The Spinning Consistency Index is a coefficient that is calculated by
means of various quality characteristics by a multiple regression analysis. The SCI
used is calculated with the original formula provided by USTER. The main benefit of
the SCI is a simplified selection of bales for a predetermined blend of fibers as well as
the long-term check of the raw material blend.

This index can be used to simplify the category system used in the cotton warehouse.
In general, the higher the index, the higher the yarn strength and the better the
overall fiber spinnability.

The equation for the SCI value is:

SCI = -414.67 + 2.9 x Strength – 9.32 x Micronaire + 49.17 x Length (“) + 4.74 x
Uniformity + 0.65 x Rd + 0.36 x +b

Based on the customer’s experience, the individual contributions of each

fiber property can be adjusted to specific mill applications.
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Factors Influencing Test Results

There are several factors that can influence test results, which will be described
below:
• Ambient conditions in the laboratory (relative humidity and temperature)
• Instrument maintenance

Relative Humidity and Temperature

Some textile fibers are highly hygroscopic and their properties change notably
as a function of the moisture content. Typical hygroscopic fibers are cotton,
wool, rayon, silk, flax, etc. Cotton as a hygroscopic fiber absorbs moisture and
becomes stronger while retaining it. Moisture content is particularly critical in the
case of dynamometric properties, i.e. yarn tenacity, elongation, and work-to- break,
but yarn evenness, imperfections, and defect levels are also affected. As a result,
conditioning and testing must be carried out under constant standard atmospheric
conditions.
The time it remains in a conditioned or unconditioned area determines how much
moisture will be retained. Therefore, it is of utmost importance to operate in a
controlled laboratory environment, if a laboratory wants to obtain repeatable
results.

ISO Standard # 139 defines Standard Atmospheric Conditions as such [Reference:

“Standard
Atmosphere for Conditioning and Testing”, ISO 139]:
• Temperature of 68° ± 4° F (20° ± 2° C)
• Relative humidity of 65% ± 2%

To attain moisture equilibrium, a conditioning time of at least 24 hours is required;

48 hours is preferred. For samples with a high moisture content (thermally
conditioned yarns), conditioning time should be at least 48 hours.

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Span length:
Figure ?? represents a strand of fibers caught by a clamp. All loose fibers to the
right of the clamp are removed. The number of fiber is counted, say 12,000. Now
the clamp line moves to the right to catch only 6000 (50% of 12,000) and 300 (2.5%
of 12,000) fibers to obtain 50% and 2.5% span length.
Initial Clamp line
(12,000 fibres 6,000 fibres 300 fibres
caught here) caught here caught here

50% S. L.

2.5% S. L.

Fig. Relative position of fibers with respect to clamp nip to obtain ‘span length’.

If the 2.5% SL is 27 mm, then 2.5% of the fibers clamped would be 27 mm or

longer; similarly the 50% SL is 15 mm, then 50% of them would be 15 mm or
longer. A uniformity ratio (U.R.) can be calculated:
The UR is a measure of the length variability of the cotton. In the case of cotton, this
ratio can be used as a guideline (50%: good, 45%: average and 43%: poor). It is often
wrongly believed that the UR for staple fibers should be nearly 100% to obtain a
good quality yarn. Practically UR will be a little over 50% only. The reason is that the
protruding ends of the fibers in the drafting zone will not have the same length even
all the fibers have the same length. A certain length variation is introduced in the
drafting zone that causes a reduction in UR

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